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Trip report: Celebrating 2025 in Mergui and Burma Banks!

11/1/2025

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celebrating a new year on a liveaboard
As the clock ticked toward 2025, we set sail on the MV Smiling Seahorse, departing from Ranong with an international crew of divers from Australia, the USA, France, and Spain. The journey began with a unique experience—crossing the Thai-Burmese border by sea. After clearing immigration at Kawthaung, we ventured into the enchanting Mergui Archipelago to kick off our New Year’s adventure.
happy divers on a myanmar liveaboard

Day 1: A Festive Start to the Adventure

high rock, myanmar dive site
jumpin in mergui archipelago's dive sites
Our first dive at High Rock set a remarkable tone for the week ahead. The reef teemed with life, showcasing vibrant cowfish, porcupine puffers, and schools of pickhandle barracuda gliding gracefully through the crystal-clear waters. Among the nooks and crannies, we encountered white-eye moray eels, pipefish, cuttlefish, and the notoriously elusive honeycomb moray. Scorpionfish expertly camouflaged themselves against the coral backdrop, keeping us constantly alert and engaged.

Dive two took us to Shark Cave at 3 Islets, where the diversity and abundance of marine life seemed to double. A delicate tiger tail seahorse swayed gently in the current, while peacock mantis shrimp scurried energetically across the sandy bottom. Schools of fusiliers, jacks, and snappers filled the water with vibrant bursts of color, and another stunning formation of pickhandle barracuda swirled around us in a mesmerizing ballet.

For our third dive at Submarine, or Square Rock, we were treated to thrilling highlights: a school of giant trevally and golden trevally shimmering like molten gold in the deep blue background. Nudibranch enthusiasts rejoiced at the sighting of exquisite purple and orange Flabellina and orange pipefish on the reef, while the large schools of yellow fusiliers, jacks, and snappers commanded attention above our heads. We were even fortunate to witness a "barracuda tornado," a breathtaking spectacle of swirling silver and shadows.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we returned to Shark Cave for a night dive, where the nocturnal marine life came alive. Decorator crabs adorned in shades of yellow and pink roamed the seabed, and small creatures like dancing Durban shrimp and cleaning shrimp illuminated the night with their lively antics. The ethereal presence of moray eels weaving through the shadows added an intriguing touch of mystery to the dive.
​
Back on board, the night turned into a festive celebration. Ringing in New Year’s Eve in the remote Mergui Archipelago was nothing short of enchanting. With no other boats in sight, we welcomed 2025 beneath a canopy of stars, toasting to exceptional visibility, thrilling dives—and the exciting prospect of more encounters with nurse sharks to come!
myanmar has a lot of scorpionfish
myanmar diving on the reef
tigertail seahorse portrait in myanmar water
flabelina
barracudas schooling

Day 2: The North Twin Pinnacle Sho

At North Twin Pinnacle, we began our day with two dives that can only be described as breathtaking. A shy school of jackfish momentarily graced us with their presence, while yellowtail barracuda lounged atop the boulders, watching our every move. Among the vibrant coral gardens, we encountered mesmerizing tigertail seahorses, a pair of amorous octopuses engaged in a playful courtship display, and a distinctive seal-face pufferfish. The scene was further enhanced by the vivid presence of surgeonfish, batfish, and blue-and-yellow boxfish, creating a truly enchanting tableau.
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Our third and fourth dives at North Twin Reef Pinnacle unveiled a kaleidoscope of marine life. Blue-dash, blue-and-gold, and black-tipped fusiliers darted gracefully around pink basslets and longnose hawkfish nestled among the soft coral. We were also delighted by the vibrant sweetlips, butterflyfish, and angelfish, along with the surprising appearance of four giant blue-spotted pufferfish. A dogtooth tuna glided past us, serving as a reminder of the ocean's vast and mysterious depths.
vibran reef scene with fusilier school behind
pretty underwater scenic view
white eyed moray
mergui archipelago diving in caves
bent stick pipefish
fish cages are sad

Day 3: Big Fish and Bigger Adventures at Burma Bank

The overnight journey took us to the Burma Banks, where Row Bank awaited. At an average depth of 25 meters, we were greeted by vibrant schools of bignose unicornfish and humpback unicornfish, as well as the majestic presence of nurse sharks—both resting under the bommies and curiously swimming among us. A massive school of jacks, seemingly engaged in a mating ritual, circled in pairs of dark and light individuals. Honeycomb moray eels peeked out from their hiding spots, while chromodoris nudibranchs delighted macro enthusiasts. The excitement was further heightened by the presence of giant sweetlips, white-tip reef sharks, and titan triggerfish.

During dives three and four at Rainbow Bank, we were accompanied by dolphins along the way, setting the stage for unforgettable underwater encounters. Nurse sharks and white-tip reef sharks patrolled the area, while jacks, trevally, and rainbow runners moved in synchronized harmony. On one dive, our group was treated to a stunning sunset that revealed bearded moray eels, giant blue-spotted pufferfish, scribbled filefish, and even more nurse sharks.
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Meanwhile, other divers opted for a blackwater dive, where the crystal-clear waters and gentle currents showcased a mesmerizing array of larval critters. Tiny flounders, shrimps, mantis shrimps, crabs, moray eels, jacks, goatfish, and sea butterflies floated gracefully in the current, creating a surreal underwater spectacle.
nurse shark in burma banks with a sweetlip
cool blackwater critters in Myanmar
blackwater diving in Burma
surgeons fish schooling in burma banks
myanmar waters are rich in crustaceans, blackwater is no exception
diving with sea angels in myanmar

Day 4: More Burma Banks Magic

Returning to Row Bank for our first two dives, we were once again captivated by the mesmerizing sights of nurse sharks, honeycomb moray eels, and schools of striking black-and-white snappers. Longnose emperors and five-line snappers gracefully accompanied masked porcupinefish and giant pufferfish through the vibrant underwater landscape.

​During our third dive at Rainbow Bank, we had the exhilarating opportunity to encounter yellowfin tuna, formidable great barracuda, and even a baby grey reef shark. Our final dive at Silvertip Bank provided the ultimate thrill: an adult silvertip shark glided majestically by, accompanied by marble rays and inquisitive trevally, while baby grey reef sharks curiously approached the divers on their way to the safety stop.
big school of snappers and fusiliers
sea turtle photographed in mergui archipelago
myanmar diving with rays
day octopus in mergui's reef

Day 5: Back to the Mergui

The final day took us back to the Mergui Archipelago, beginning with two dives at SeaFan Forest. The pharaoh cuttlefish captivated our attention as they mated and laid eggs among the crevices. Tiger-tail seahorses, stonefish, and peacock mantis shrimp shared the stage with Chromodoris annulata nudibranchs, which were laying their eggs on the vibrant giant sea fans.
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At Western Rocky Cave, we were delighted by the sight of baby Hypselodoris nudibranchs, painted lobsters, and a school of pickhandle barracuda, offering a perfect conclusion to our underwater adventures. Our final dive at Eagle’s Nest was a spectacular display of color and life, featuring schools of jacks, juvenile bicolor parrotfish, and anemone crabs bidding us farewell in a mesmerizing underwater send-off.
burma's giant seafans
diving with juveniles in myanmar
Andaman Seafans
burma banks have the most amazing blue water

Grand Final Dive at Volcano

Our trip concluded with a dive at the Volcano, also known as Shark Lagoon. Here, we glided through a kaleidoscope of soft corals in vibrant shades of yellow, purple, and pink, while bannerfish and flabellinas gracefully danced in the currents.
anemone reef
happy new year in myanmar

Random Yet Perfect: A New Year to Remember

Spending the first days of the new year in the remote Burma Banks was an unparalleled experience. Being the only boat in this vast expanse of ocean felt surreal, as if the underwater world had been reserved just for us. The stunning visibility in the Banks, combined with abundant marine life and the thrill of diving with nurse sharks, made it a celebration we will never forget.

​Here’s to more adventures in 2025! The whole team wishing you all, readers, an amazing year!
Philippe and isa are back onboard
we love to make you smile!
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Trip report: 15th December 2024, 6 days in Surin and Similan National parks

9/1/2025

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15th December 2024 liveaboard trip report

Six days and five unforgettable nights aboard the MV Smiling Sea Hors

The Andaman Sea is home to some of the most stunning underwater landscapes, and our journey into its heart took us to the renowned Similan and Surin National Parks. With their vibrant marine ecosystems and world-class dive sites, these destinations are a true diver's paradise.
Our guests this week was an energetic mix of adventurers from Germany, France, the UK, Australia, and Luxembourg. United by a shared passion for the ocean, we ventured into two Marine National Parks in the North Andaman, renowned for their vibrant marine life and spectacular underwater landscapes. 
​
The Similan Islands, whose name fittingly means "nine" in Malay, form a cluster of breathtaking isles. Just to the north, Koh Bon and Koh Tachai serve as gateways to Surin National Park, adding even more wonder to the experience. Departing from Khao Lak, this voyage promised a tapestry of unforgettable sights above and below the surface.
sunset in the similans
Picture
Picture

Day 1 : Similan National park - Honeymoon bay, West Of Eden, Elephant head and Turtle Rock

We started our adventure with a check dive at Honeymoon Bay (Island Number 4). The coral garden and pristine sandy bottom were teeming with marine life: moray eels, lionfish, peacock groupers, and an octopus made appearances, while Camille spotted a stunning comet longfins. Divers also encountered sealface pufferfish, gobies, butterflyfish, and the graceful humpback unicornfish.

Our second dive took us to West of Eden (Island Number 7), where we marvelled at a vibrant coral garden bustling with life. Juvenile rockmover wrasse danced in the sand, and blue-spotted pufferfish peeked out from coral crevices. Angelfish, snappers, fusiliers, surgeonfish, and tilefish were abundant, making this dive truly delightful.

For our third dive, we explored the iconic Elephant Head Rock, renowned for its massive boulders and swim-throughs. Highlights included a giant trevally, a blue-and-yellow ribbon eel, and colorful nudibranchs adorning the rocks. Divers also spotted parrotfish, triggerfish, and a playful school of bluefin trevally hunting glassfish.
​
The day concluded with a mesmerizing night dive at Turtle Rock, near Donald Duck Bay. Shrimps and crabs were out in abundance: banded boxer shrimp, marble shrimp, and Durban dancing shrimp stole the show. A giant moray eel stalking a snapper added an element of drama, while a tiger cowrie and an ornate spiny lobster rounded off our enchanting night.
comet longfins
comet longfins - Calloplesiops altivelis
diving thailand with a Day octopus
Day octopus
sealface pufferfish in thailand
sealface pufferfish
Tiger egg cowrie in Richelieu Rock thailand diving
Tiger egg cowrie

Day 2 : Similan islands

We began the morning at Xmas Point, where one group was delighted to discover a pair of baby harlequin shrimps munching on a sea star while another group came across a white-tip shark swimming closeby and a curious octopus. Parrotfish and titan triggerfish also came for a quick glance as we explored this dynamic dive site.

Our second dive took us to Three Trees, where we encountered a playful hawksbill turtle and observed garden eels swaying gently in the sand. The highlights of this dive included potato groupers and Moorish idols, as well as blue-spotted rays gliding elegantly through the water.
​
Next, we made our way to Koh Bon Bay, where we were greeted by a school of platax (batfish). The spectacle was enhanced by the presence of lionfish, lobsters, and peacock mantis shrimps, along with yellow fusiliers and bluefin trevally darting through the reef.
We concluded the day with a dive at Koh Bon, which featured Andaman sweetlips, tapestry shrimp, and squat shrimps. An octopus made a memorable appearance, and we were particularly thrilled to spot the vibrant halgerda tessellata nudibranch, which was truly a special treat.
diving with Halgerda Tesselata in Similan islands
Halgerda Tesselata
Thailand colourful parrot fish
parrot fish
pair of baby harlequin shrimps
pair of young harlequin shrimp munching on a seastar
Hawkbill turtle in Similan islands
Hawkbill turtle

Day 3: Koh Bon and Koh Tachai

Some divers began their day at Koh Bon West Ridge, where Maldivian sponge snails, schools of fusiliers, triggerfish, batfish, and anemonefish were abundant. While others explored the deeper Koh Bon Pinnacle, which was equally rich in marine life.

For the second dive, we ventured to Koh Bon North Ridge and North Reef, enjoying remarkable visibility and sunlight streaming through the water. Divers spotted banded sea snakes, barracudas, lionfish, and baby fimbriated moray eels. Shrimp, including Durban dancers and boxing shrimp, added charm to the reef.
​
Dive three took us to Koh Tachai Pinnacle, where the light and visibility were breathtaking. Schools of fusiliers and snappers swarmed around the reef, while giant potato groupers and pufferfish lingered on the plateau. A school of batfish hovered near the walls, accompanied by octopuses and stunning sea fans.
The sunset dive at Koh Tachai Pinnacle featured no current and an abundance of marine life. Mackerel, giant trevally, dogtooth tuna, and schools of fusiliers swirled around the site. Potato groupers and a small yellow boxfish provided a perfect ending to the day.
titale triggerfish in Thailand
titan triggerfish
similan national park is very fishy
clownfish in their anemone in Tachai pinnacle
clownfish in their anemone
banded sea crait
banded sea krait

Day 4 : Surin National Park

red snappers in Surinred snappers
The wind picked up as we made our way toward Surin National Park, prompting us to adjust our plans for safety. We began our adventure at Yellow Rock, located on the southern tip of South Surin Island. Although the visibility and current posed some challenges, our most determined divers were rewarded with sightings of a school of yellowtail barracuda, a massive school of yellow fusiliers, and a solitary humphead parrotfish.

Our second dive at Bungalow Rock, situated northwest of South Surin Island, offered calmer conditions and clearer waters. The underwater landscape was vibrant, featuring boulders teeming with life, including barracudas, sweetlips, shy potato groupers, and a giant moray eel that made this dive truly memorable.
​
The final two dives of the day took us to the legendary Richelieu Rock. Although the visibility wasn’t perfect, the site delivered its usual enchantment. Schools of yellowtail barracuda, pickhandle barracuda, trevally, rainbow runners, fusiliers, and snappers painted a mesmerizing underwater scene. The sight of cuttlefish laying eggs added to the excitement, while as the sun began to set, the waters came alive with activity as predators started their hunt.
After the sunset dive, we celebrated with a barbecue in the bay of the Surin Islands—a well-deserved feast for our hardworking divers.

Picture
school of Barracudas
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big eye trevallis

Day 5: Richelieu Rock and return to Koh Phayam and Ranong

The trip concluded with two final dives at Richelieu Rock, which once again showcased its incredible biodiversity. Schools of barracuda mingled with fusiliers and snappers, while longnose emperors prowled near the rock. Boxfish, trumpetfish, and blue-spotted boxfish were just a few of the vibrant reef inhabitants we encountered. Porcelain crabs, peacock mantis shrimps, and Durban dancing shrimps delighted macro enthusiasts.
​
With smiles on our faces and memories of breathtaking dives, we headed back toward Ranong, making a brief stop at Koh Payam to drop off some guests. This journey was truly unforgettable.
Picture
Durban Dancing Shrimp
juvenile Boxfish
mantis shrimp in Richelieu Rock
Mantis Shrimp
Emperor in Glassfish
Thank you to all our guests for making this adventure unforgettable! Until next time, happy diving! 
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Trip report: 10th December 2024: 4 days trough the North Andaman wonders

9/1/2025

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December 10th 2024 trip report

Best of the North Andaman: A Journey Through Underwater Wonders

MV Smiling Seahorse welcomed aboard an incredible group of divers from Belgium, Singapore, France, Australia, Germany, and the USA. Departing from Khao Lak, we cruised northward towards the pristine waters of Surin National Park. Over the course of the next three adventurous days, we explored vibrant coral gardens, dramatic pinnacles, and the famous Richelieu Rock, encountering marine life in all shapes and sizes.
setting sail from tap lamu pier
setting sail from tap lamu pier
Lovely guests onboard The Smiling Seahorse
with some lovely guest onboard
Diving Thailand's North Andaman
North Andaman - Thailand - December 2024

Day 1: A Warm Welcome at Ao Pakkard Bay

Our adventure began with a check dive at Ao Pakkard Bay, a stunning site featuring a vibrant coral garden and a soft, white sandy bottom. The calm waters set the stage for a perfect start, revealing a delightful array of marine life: a graceful eagle ray, curious garden eels, a passing blacktip reef shark, and even the iconic humphead parrotfish munching on coral. Amidst the reef, we were greeted by boxfish, triggerfish, anemonefish, and damselfish darting through the corals.
The second dive took us to Yellow Rock, also known as Rainbow Rock. With incredible visibility and minimal current, the dive was truly breathtaking. Schools of parrotfish, harlequin sweetlips, yellowtail barracuda, and big potato groupers surrounded us, while smaller critters like bentstick pipefish and porcupinefish made charming appearances. Adding to the vibrant scene were tigerfish, angelfish, boxfish, and pufferfish navigating the reef.
For our third dive, we explored Torinla Pinnacle, a boulder-strewn site with excellent visibility and little current. Among the rocks, we discovered catfish, Pikachu nudibranchs, and a curious barracuda hovering in the blue. The reef was alive with parrotfish, triggerfish, and a kaleidoscope of colorful wrasse.
We ended the day with a magical night dive back at Ao Pakkard Bay. Crustaceans took center stage, including squat shrimps, giant red reef crabs, marbled shrimps, and Durban dancing shrimps. Sleeping anemonefish on their purple pillow and parrotfish rested peacefully in their snort bubble, while the water sparkled with bioluminescence at every fin kick.
Pikachu Nudibranch
Pikachu Nudibranch
Picture
snapper in glassfish
Batfish in Surin National Park
Batfish in Surin National Park
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tomato grouper on coral bummie in thailand

Day 2: Surin National Park – A Richelieu Rock Extravaganz

The day was dedicated to the legendary Richelieu Rock, one of the most biodiverse dive sites in the world. We completed three spectacular dives here, each offering amazing visibility and an explosion of marine life.
Rabbitfish and the usual mob of longnose emperors were seen hunting with big eye trevally on the reef while  pickhandle barracuda and rainbow runners filled the blue above. Close to the reef, we spotted a baby banded stick pipefish on the sandy bottom,  a yellow trumpetfish tried and failed to hide in a bushy coral, jens cleaner pipefish were hiding in every dark crevice. in the shallow a big school of batfish was playing in the sunrays, while schools of yellow and white snappers passed them by. Tiny critters like nudibranchs (including various chromodoris), porcelain crabs, and a tiny yellow cube boxfish delighted our macro enthusiasts and got the strobes flashing!
Our divers also encountered the elusive frogfish, white-spotted boxfish, and clouds of fusiliers darting around the reef. The soft corals here were thriving, home to anemonefish, damselfish, and a kaleidoscope of reef species.
​
For the sunset dive, one group returned to Richelieu Rock, where the current brought in the big action: schools of longnose emperors, giant trevally, barracuda, rainbow runners, and fusiliers swarmed the pinnacle, creating an unforgettable spectacle before nightfall.
Meanwhile, other groups ventured out for a blackwater dive, a surreal night diving experience floating in the open ocean.
Highlights that night included larval filefish, baby day octopuses, Indian halibut, and moray eel larvae, alongside mesmerizing salps drifting in the darkness.
thailand pretty reef scene
blackwater diving thailand eel
Juvenile eel - Blackwater critter
Indian Halibut on a blackwater dive
Indian Halibut
Blackwater dive critter - Day octopus
Day octopus
diving thailand beauty
pretty coral in surin islands
blackwater diving thailand shrimp

Day 3: Pinnacles and Plateaus to End the Adventure

The final day began with a dive at Koh Tachai Plateau/Pinnacle, where we encountered a massive school of blackfin barracudas, giant trevally, and potato groupers swimming across the plateau. Among the reefs, we admired large sea fans, clusters of boxfish, triggerfish, and sizable lobsters scuttling in the crevices. Schools of fusiliers and snapper danced in the current, while tuna and Spanish mackerel zipped past in the blue waters.
​
Next, we headed to Koh Bon Pinnacle, where an amazing school of batfish, white-tip reef sharks, and titan triggerfish took center stage. At West Ridge, the day continued with sightings of a banded sea snake, bluefin trevally, Maldivian sponge snails, and even blue baby lobsters hiding in the cracks. The playful peacock mantis shrimps were a crowd favorite, alongside a variety of snapper, wrasse, and parrotfish.
titan triggerfish
Batfish school in Andaman Sea
yellow snapper and trevalli in background
surgeon fish in thailand's best dive site
giant seafan in Similan national park of Thailand

​Grateful for Unforgettable Adventures...

A heartfelt thank you to all our incredible guests for making this trip such a truly special experience. The smiles, laughter, and shared underwater adventures created unforgettable memories as we explored the breathtaking beauty of the North Andaman Sea. Each moment spent together was cherished, and we are grateful for the camaraderie and joy that you all brought aboard. We sincerely hope to welcome you back on the MV Smiling Seahorse for your next adventure! Your presence made this journey remarkable, and we look forward to creating more magical moments together in the future.
blackwater diving similan islands is special
fun onboard thailand's best liveaboard
richelieu rock is thailand's best dive site
after the last dive of the day in thai liveaboard
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