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Trip report | Marine Biology cruise with Whale Shark specialist | 20th - 27th March 2026

31/3/2026

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Koh Haa arial view andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
rinda whaleshark specialist  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Rinda "Mony" The Whaleshark Guru | Thailand Whale Shark project
sunset at sea  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Sunset at Sea

Some expeditions are defined by what you see. Others by what you come to understand.
​

We departed from Ranong, welcoming our international group of guests from Italy, France, the UK and the US, and set course for a Marine biology expedition with a Whale Shark Specialist, Mony to learn more about the biggest fish in the seas!

While the ocean chose not to reveal them this time, the experience took on a different depth. Throughout the week, Rinda, also known as Mony, from the Thailand Whale shark project, delivered daily presentations exploring whale shark biology, behaviour, and conservation challenges in Thailand.
​
These sessions brought a meaningful layer to the expedition, connecting each dive to a broader ecological perspective — linking what we observed underwater to the larger story of marine life in the Andaman Sea. From North to South Andaman, the journey unfolded as a rich exploration of pelagic encounters, vibrant reefs, and intricate macro life — shaped as much by discovery as by understanding.

​Day 2 – Surin National Park & Richelieu Rock

​Our check dive in the Surin Islands at Koh Chi offered a gentle but vibrant start. Garden eels swayed over sandy patches while Halgerda tesselata, blue dragon and scorpionfish blended into the reef. Coral groupers hovered near bommies alongside Clark’s anemonefish and false anemonefish, while schools of yellowback fusiliers and neon fusiliers moved through the water column. Around them, Moorish idols, copperband butterflyfish, blue-barred parrotfish and bullethead parrotfish completed the reef scene.
Macro life was already hinting at what was to come — a richness that would only intensify as the expedition progressed.
red tailed butterflyfish frederiqeu bechet  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailandPicture
Red Tailed Butterflyfish | Frederique Bechet
 Halgerda Bacalusia Nudibranch | Renaud Liberge Renaud Liberge andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Halgerda Bacalusia Nudibranch | Renaud Liberge
richelieu rock trvallies and emperorfish  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
The Richelieu Rock "Gang"
Moorish Idols  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Moorish Idols
At Richelieu Rock, visibility was excellent and the site delivered immediately. The gang — giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, bigeye trevallies, longnose emperors and rainbow runners — hunted through dense clouds of glassfish. Barracudas patrolled the edges while batfish hovered calmly mid-water.

​Closer to the reef, harlequin shrimps, thorny seahorse, cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish added intricate detail. Tomato anemonefish, white-eye moray eels, giant moray eels and zebra moray eels occupied every crack, while octopus shifted colours between rocks. Headshield slugs, reticulated sapsucking slugs, ornate sapsucking slugs and Moyer’s dragonet were all present, alongside schools of five-lined snappers, twinstripe fusiliers and lunar fusiliers.
Seahorse  Renaud Liberge andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Tigertail Seahorse | Renaud Liberge
Giant Moray Eel Frederique Bechet  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Giant Moray Eel | Frederique Bechet
​The night dive revealed blunt decorated spider crabs, orange-spotted pipefish, boxer banded shrimps, Durban dancing shrimps, cleaner shrimps and pencil sea urchins. Ridged egg cowries and sixline soapfish appeared, while sleeping parrotfish, triggerfish locked into the reef and hunting moray eels completed the nocturnal scene.

​Day 3 – Similan National Park, Koh Tachai & Koh Bon

​Koh Tachai delivered strong currents and action-packed dives. Blacktip reef sharks cruised the reef, a hawksbill turtle passed by, and large schools of barracudas, dogtooth tuna and Spanish mackerel moved through the blue. African pompano, adult black and white snappers, lobsters and glassfish filled every level of the dive.
Turtle Frederique Bechet  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Turtle | Frederique Bechet
glassfish  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Glassfish Over the Reef
School of Barracuda   andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
School of Barracuda
Blacktip Reef Shark Renaud Liberge  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Blacktip Reef Shark | Renaud Liberge
During the navigation to Koh Bon, dolphins came to greet the boat, riding the bow wave and adding a rare surface interval moment that stayed with everyone on board.

At Koh Bon Pinnacle, one group encountered a large shark in the deep, most likely a bull shark, while the pinnacle itself pulsed with schools of yellowback fusiliers and neon fusiliers. Coral groupers, peacock groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish and Indian sailfin tang added structure and colour to the reef.
​
On the North Ridge and West Ridge, reef life remained dense and dynamic, with anemone crabs, dogtooth tuna, rainbow runners and mackerels hunting through thick schools of glassfish, while wrasses, blennies and damsels filled every available space.
Anemone Crab Freqerique Bechet  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Anemone Crab | Freqerique Bechet
fusilier school  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Schooling Fusiliers
​The blackwater dive introduced squids, salps sheltering small fish and pyrosomes drifting through the dark.
Squid in Blackwater  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Squid in Blackwater
Juvenile Fish in Blackwater  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Juvenile Fish in Blackwater
 Pyrosome in blackwater andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Pyrosome Sheltering a Juvenile Fish in Blackwater
Juvenile Fish in Blackwater  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Juvenile Fish in Blackwater
Squid in Blackwater  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Squid in Blackwater
Juvenile Fish in Blackwater  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Juvenile Fish in Blackwater

​Day 4 – Similan Islands & Crossing

​At North Point, a Napoleon wrasse cruised past while squat shrimps, mantis shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps animated the reef. Anemone crabs, Clark’s anemonefish, moray eels and topsail drummers were joined by blueface angelfish, regal angelfish, butterflyfish and schools of fusiliers.
Giant Moray Eel Renaud Liberge  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Giant Moray Eel | Renaud Liberge
Mantis Shrimp Renaud Liberge  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Mantis Shrimp | Renaud Liberge
​We then stopped at Island #8, also known as Donald Duck Bay, where white sand and granite boulders offered a striking contrast to the dives and a magnificent view from Sailrock offering sight on the blue and transparent water of the Similans.
Black Spot Boxfish  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Black Spot Boxfish
Squat Shrimp AKA Sexy Shrimp  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Squat Shrimp AKA Sexy Shrimp
 Blue Ribbon Eel Renaud Liberge andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Blue Ribbon Eel | Renaud Liberge
​Elephant Head Rock delivered dramatic topography with blue ribbon eels, adult yellow boxfish, juvenile blackspotted boxfish, red anthias, surgeonfish, blue dragon and giant trevallies weaving through the formations.
​
At West of Eden, two pipehorse fish hovered delicately while spearing mantis shrimps, squat shrimps, “sexy shrimps”, hawksbill turtle, blue dragon and a psychedelic batwing slug created a richly layered dive. Topsail drummers, fusiliers, snappers, angelfish, wrasses and parrotfish completed the reef.
​
We then crossed overnight toward Koh Lanta, leaving the granite islands behind.

​Day 5 – Hin Daeng & Hin Mueang

​Hin Mueang was full of life, with glassfish and juvenile fusiliers forming dense schools constantly targeted by hunting trevallies, African pompano and rainbow runners. Juvenile emperor angelfish, ghostpipefish, Bornella anguilla, Halgerda tesselata and phyllidia of various colours covered the reef.
​
Banded boxer shrimps, Durban dancing shrimps and cleaner shrimps filled every crevice, while titan triggerfish dug into the reef and redtooth triggerfish hovered above. Topsail drummers completed the scene.
Juvenile Emperor Angelfish Renaud Liberge   andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Juvenile Emperor Angelfish | Renaud Liberge
Bornella Anguilla Nudibranch Renaud Liberge  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Bornella Anguilla Nudibranch | Renaud Liberge
titan triggerfish  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Titan Triggerfish
Ghost Pipefish Renaud Liberge  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Ghost Pipefish | Renaud Liberge
​Hin Daeng delivered ghostpipefish, Glossodoris cincta and its eggs, ornate elysia, giant moray eels hunting in the shallows, Clark’s anemonefish, anemone crabs and tiger egg cowries. Batfish, fusiliers, snappers, surgeonfish, sweetlips and reef fish filled the water column.
Glossodoris Cincta Nudibranch Frederique Bechet  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Glossodoris Cincta Nudibranch | Frederique Bechet
Tiger Egg Cowrie Frederique Bechet  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Tiger Egg Cowrie | Frederique Bechet
​The night dive intensified the atmosphere with multiple giant moray eels hunting, small octopus camouflaging along the wall, and a constant movement of crabs and shrimps across the reef.

​Day 6 – Koh Tarutao National Park

​At 8 Mile, excellent visibility revealed a very friendly marble grouper who looked like he was mixed with a barramoundi, great barracuda, schools of scribbled filefish, juvenile emperor angelfish, juvenile blue-ringed angelfish, stonefish, yellowtail barracuda and schools of giant trevallies, alongside fusiliers, snappers, surgeonfish and reef fish.
Marbled Grouper Renaud Liberge  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Marbled Grouper | Renaud Liberge
Scibbled Filefish  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Scibbled Filefish
Scorpionfish Renaud Liberge   andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Scorpionfish | Renaud Liberge
Juvenile Blue Ringed Angelfish Frederique Bechet andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Juvenile Blue Ringed Angelfish | Frederique Bechet
​Stonehenge offered three tigertail seahorses, including one black pregnant individual, surrounded by bird wrasse, moon wrasse and sixline wrasse, along with parrotfish, scorpionfish, butterflyfish and damsels.
Thorny Seahorse  Frederique Bechet  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Seahorse | Frederique Bechet
Razorfish andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Razorfish
flounder andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Flounder
​At Steps, the sunset dive featured yellow-scribbled pipefish, Kuhl’s blue-spotted stingray, bamboo shark, flounder and razorfish, alongside fusiliers, goatfish, sweetlips, surgeonfish and reef fish settling into the evening light.

​Day 7 – Koh Lanta National Park

​Hin Mueang again delivered intense action, with schools of dogtooth tuna, Spanish mackerel, rainbow runners and mackerels hunting through glassfish and juvenile fusiliers. Batfish hovered nearby, while two yellow ghostpipefish and topsail drummers added structure.
Hin Daeng revealed yellow and black ghostpipefish and a juvenile hawksbill turtle surfacing for air before resting. Clark’s anemonefish, anemone crabs, ornate sapsucking slugs and reef life filled the dive.

Hawksbill Turtle | Renaud Liberge 

Koh Haa Renaud Liberge  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Koh Haa | Renaud Liberge
Hermit Crab Renaud Liberge andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Hermit Crab | Renaud Liberge
anemones andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Anemones
dogtooth tuna andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Dogtooth Tuna
​At Cathedral, massive Glossodoris hikuerensis, Halgerda stricklandi, Halgerda candy, verconia alboannulata (noumea alboannulata), Bornella anguilla, a juvenile hawksbill turtle with a damaged shell, titan triggerfish carrying shells, bannerfish, Moorish idols, giant moray eel, longfin batfish and pinnate batfish created a rich and layered scene.
At the Cheminee, ghostpipefish, Cuthona sibogae, tiger cowrie eggs, giant moray eels, cave fish, sweetlips, snappers, yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers, glassfish, ornate elysia, scorpionfish, parrotfish and anemonefish filled the tunnel.

The day ended with our traditional BBQ on board, under calm seas and a sky full of stars.
Ornate Elysia Nudibranch Renaud Liberge  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Ornate Elysia Nudibranch | Renaud Liberge
Jellyfish Renaud Liberge
Jellyfish | Renaud Liberge
Trinchesia Sibogae Nudibranch Frederiqe Bechet  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Trinchesia Sibogae Nudibranch | Frederiqe Bechet
Tiger Tail Seahorse Renaud Liberge   andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Tiger Tail Seahorse | Renaud Liberge

​Day 8 – Koh Phi Phi & Final Dive

​Bida Nok offered blacktip reef sharks, tigertail seahorse, two ghostpipefish, schools of five-lined snappers, giant moray eels, batfish and schools of fusiliers moving across the reef alongside butterflyfish, surgeonfish and parrotfish.
​At King Cruiser wreck, the sunken ferry now acts as a thriving artificial reef, covered in life. Schools of yellowback fusiliers, bigeye trevallies, school of jacks, snappers circled the structure, while lionfish and groupers, sweetlips and reef fish occupied every level of the wreck.
Closer to the structure, macro life revealed itself in layers: Hypselodoris infucata, Glossodoris atromarginata, Chromodoris aureopurpurea, Hypselodoris sp. 3 and Flabellina rubrolineata decorated the surfaces, turning the wreck into a vibrant underwater mosaic where small details were just as captivating as the schooling fish above.
Verconia Alboannulata Nudibranch Frederique Bechet andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Verconia Alboannulata Nudibranch | Frederique Bechet
king Cruiser wreck map  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
King Cruiser Wreck Map
We ended the trip in Phuket Marin Charter Pier, saying goodbye after a week rich in encounters, diversity and unforgettable underwater moments.
From open-ocean encounters to the smallest hidden reef life, this journey captured the full spectrum of Andaman diving — shaped by rhythm, diversity, and the quiet magic of life below the surface.
See you soon, fellow divers.

Pictures from Renaud Liberge & Frederique Béchet (pictured below) present on this trip and others from Franck Fogarolo.
frederiqe bechet  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Frederique Bechet
Renaud Liberge andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
Renaud Liberge
group photo  andaman Liveaboard scuba diving cruise thailand
BBQ Night Group Photo Tradition
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Trip report | 10th - 18th March 2026 | Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks

20/3/2026

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Picture
This expedition brought together a wonderfully international group of divers from France, Switzerland, Germany, Romania, the USA, Singapore and Burma, including a very special guest, Thanda Ko Gyi, founder of the Myanmar Ocean Project and the database guru in Myanmar for Mantas both for Manta Trust and Marine Megfauna fondations. Beside education and ghost net removal, her work focuses on manta ray research, identification and conservation in Myanmar waters, adding a meaningful scientific dimension to our journey through one of Southeast Asia’s last true diving frontiers.
From the remote islands of the Mergui Archipelago to the vast offshore plateaus of the Burma Banks, the week unfolded as a perfect balance between encounters with large pelagics and an almost overwhelming richness of macro life.
viewpoint Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar
A View of Myanmar

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago
​

After clearing Thai immigration at Badin Pier in Ranong, we welcomed our guests on board before making a smooth crossing to Kawthung for Burmese formalities. Soon after, the Smiling Seahorse headed north into the Mergui Archipelago, where dense jungle-covered islands, quiet anchorages and untouched reefs set the tone for the days ahead.
 MyanmarMV smiling seahorse liveaboard boat Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar
The MV Smiling Seahorse
myanmar sunset  Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar
Sunset in Myanmar

Day 2 – High Rock
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Our first immersion at High Rock served as a gentle and colourful introduction to the trip, allowing everyone to settle into the rhythm of diving in Burma.
The reef immediately revealed its macro treasures: long-tail sea hare slugs grazing on the rock, dark margin glossodoris, orange-spotted pipefish weaving through the reef and delicate yellow wentletrap snails (Epitonium billeanum). Flounders rested motionless on sandy patches while cowfish drifted slowly in the current.
​

Moray eels were already part of the scenery, with white-eye moray eels and giant moray eels peering from crevices, while schools of juvenile yellowback fusiliers flickered above the reef. In the blue, chevron barracudas held their formation, hinting at the bigger action to come.
The rest of the day unfolded on board with an inspiring presentation by Thanda, sharing insights into manta identification and behaviour, setting the stage for what would become one of the trip’s defining themes.
white eye moral eel thierry lagrave Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar
White Eye Moray Eel | Thierry Lagrave
geographic sea hare thierry lagrave Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar
Geographic Sea Hare | Thierry Lagrave

Day 3 & 4 – Black Rock

Black Rock delivered its usual blend of raw energy and intricate detail, a place where the blue and the reef constantly compete for attention.
In the open water, oceanic manta rays appeared gracefully, circling above the pinnacle as if inspecting each diver. Thanks to Thanda’s expertise, we were able to identify six different individual manta rays over the course of our dives — a truly special highlight that added a scientific dimension to these encounters.

​Around them, dense formations of chevron and pickhandle barracuda stretched into the distance, while blacktip trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies and bigeye trevallies surged through schools of fish in coordinated bursts. Dogtooth tuna and longnose emperors cut through the water column, while massive schools of rabbitfish hovered over the reef.

manta ray coral reef thierry lagrave Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Manta Ray Glides Over the Reef | Thierry Lagrave
manta ray black rock thierry lagrave  Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar
Manta Ray with Remoras | Thierry Lagrave
oceanic manta ray thierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Oceanic Manta Ray | Thierry Lagrave
Below the action, the reef itself was just as alive. Powder-blue surgeonfish and velvet surgeonfish grazed continuously, while giant moray eels, fimbriated morays, leopard morays and yellow-edged moray eels filled every crack and overhang. Batfish lingered calmly in sheltered zones, seemingly unfazed by the surrounding chaos. Schools of neon fusiliers, scissortail fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers formed thick, shifting clouds wrapping around the rock.
chromodoris geminus nudibranch thierry lagrave Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Chromodoris Geminus | Thierry Lagrave
And then there was the macro.
Black Rock revealed an almost overwhelming diversity: Bornella anguilla, Goniobranchus geometrica, Goniobranchus geminus, Goniobranchus leopardus, Goniobranchus annulata, Risbecia pulchella, gloomy Tamja, white-bump sapsucking slugs, golden wentletrap snails and tiger cowries.
gionobranchus geometrica nudibranch thierry lagrave Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Gonionbranchus Geometrius Nudibranch | Thierry Lagrave
gionobranchus annulatus nudibranch thierry lagrave Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Goniobranchus Annulatus Nudibranch | Thierry Lagrave
Peacock-tail anemone shrimps, squat shrimps, anemone crabs and peacock mantis shrimps animated the reef, while pharaoh cuttlefish hovered just above the substrate. Stonefish blended perfectly into the rocks and rare sightings of yellow and red clown frogfish added excitement.

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We also encountered Dendrodoris denisoni, orangutan crabs, reef crabs, honeycomb moray eels and Doriprismatica atromarginata. The tiny yet fascinating Trinchesia sibogae showcased its cerata, reminding us of the incredible defensive adaptations of nudibranchs, storing stinging cells from their prey.
Trinchesia sibogae nudibranch thierry lagrave   Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Trinchesia Sibogae Nudibranch | Thierry Lagrave
dendrodoris denisoni nudibranch thierry lagrave   Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Dendrodoris Denisoni | Thierry Lagrave
Sunset  brought a different atmosphere. Under torchlight, anemone fish hermit crabs, sea urchin crabs, broadclub cuttlefish and pygmy squids emerged, transforming Black Rock into a different world.
scorpionfish thierry lagrave   Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Scorpionfish | Thierry Lagrave
anemone fish thierry lagrave  Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Anemonefish | Thierry Lagrave
pygmy squid   Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Pygmy Squid

Day 5 – Three Islets & Crossing to the Burma Banks

At Square rock, tigertail seahorses including juveniles clung delicately to the whip coral, while tiger cowries and their eggs decorated the substrate. Schools of yellowtail barracuda passed by as Cuthona sibogae, Hypselodoris decorata and blue dragons brought colour to the reef. Orange-spotted pipefish and cleaner pipefish hovered above the sand while scorpionfish and moray eels remained perfectly camouflaged.
tiger tail seahorse thierry lagrave  Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Tiger Tail Seahorse | Thierry Lagrave
Tiger Tail Seahorse Thiery lagrave   Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Tiger Tail Seahorse | Thierry Lagrave
Submarine combined action and detail, with spotted hypselodoris, anemone crabs, stonefish and devil scorpionfish sharing space with bamboo sharks resting under ledges. Schools of juvenile yellowback and scissortail fusiliers mixed with snappers and rainbow runners, while juvenile Koran angelfish and oriental sweetlips added flashes of colour.
anemone crab thierry lagrave  Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Anemone Crab | Thierry Lagrave
oriental sweetlips red tailed butterflyfish sea fan  Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Oriental Sweetlips and Red Tailed Butterflyfish with Sea Fan
devil scorpionfish thierry lagrave  Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Devil Scorpionfish | Thierry Lagrave
At Shark Cave, tomato anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish guarded their homes alongside anemone crabs. White-eye and honeycomb moray eels hid within the reef while macro highlights included Nembrotha lineolata, Cuthona sibogae, mouthbrooding cardinalfish, Chromodoris annulata, skeleton shrimp and camouflaged snapping shrimps.
skeleton shrimp thierry lagrave   Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Skeleton Shrimp | Thierry Lagrave
tomato anemonefish   Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Tomato Anemonefish
Our visit to Khyun Pillar Island offered a quiet pause away from the Dive-Eat-Sleep rhythm. Walking through the small Moken village, we experienced a glimpse of a way of life deeply connected to the sea, where tides and seasons shape daily routines. Children played along the beach, longtail boats rested in the shallows, and the surrounding jungle framed the scene with a sense of timelessness. A simple yet meaningful moment that added a human dimension to our journey through this remote Archipelago.
Khyun Pillar Island Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
A View of Khyun Pillar Island
Khyun Pillar Island temple Myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Khyun Pillar Island Temple
As the sun began to dip, we returned to the water for a night dive rich with life. Blunt decorated crabs, blue eyed rock crabs, cone snails and tiger cowries emerged from hiding, while gorgonian crabs, basket stars and emperor shrimps occupied every corner of the reef. Anemone hermit crabs and squat lobsters moved cautiously between rocks, alongside saw-edged spooner crabs. Sea cucumbers, pencil urchins and sleeping rabbitfish completed the scene, wrapping up the day in a completely different, nocturnal atmosphere.
​
That evening, we set course toward the remote Burma Banks...
crabs Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Crab Buddies | Thierry Lagrave
cowrie Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Cowrie Displaying its Body Over its Shell
giant moray eel thierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Giant Moray Eel | Thierry Lagrave

Day 6 – Burma Banks

Row Bank introduced us immediately to the signature atmosphere of the Banks. Nurse sharks dominated the dives, resting on sandy ledges or gliding slowly past divers. Around them, powder-blue surgeonfish, lined surgeonfish, oriental sweetlips and two-spot butterflyfish filled the reef. Coral groupers and peacock groupers held their territories while cleaner wrasse and sixline wrasse worked tirelessly. Basslets hovered close to the reef face and yellow saddle goatfish sifted through the sand.
nurse shark thierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Nurse Shark | Thierry Lagrave
At Rainbow Bank, the pelagic energy increased. More nurse sharks rested across the plateau while schools of humpback unicornfish and sleek unicornfish moved in formation. Batfish, longnose emperors and large schools of black-and-white snappers mixed with giant one-spot and five-lined snappers. Great barracuda patrolled the edges while honeycomb moray eels filled the reef.
unicornfish Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
School of Unicornfish
great barracuda Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Great Barracuda
 Blackwater  dives added a completely different dimension: sea angels mating, crab zoea larvae drifting, larval sleeper lobsters, flying fish larvae, eel larvae, salps, eternal jellyfish and juvenile  female paper nautilus drifting like tiny living sculptures.
larval eel blackwater diving thierry lagraveAndaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Larval Eel in Blackwater | Thierry Lagrave
flying fish blackwater diving thierry lagraveAndaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Flying Fish in Blackwater | Thierry Lagrave
mating sea angels blackwater diving thierry lagraveAndaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Mating Sea Angels in Blackwater | Thierry Lagrave
eternal jellyfish blackwater divingthierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Eternal Jellyfish in Blackwater | Thierry Lagrave
female paper nautilus blackwater diving thierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Female Paper Nautilus in Blackwater | Thierry Lagrave

Day 7 – Burma Banks
​

Coral Bank delivered one of the most intense sequences of the banks for most of our divers. Nurse sharks swam directly through the group, while a massive mangrove whip ray lifted off from the reef and glided effortlessly past divers. Grey reef sharks appeared in the blue, replacing the nurse sharks as the dominant presence. Giant barracuda, large tuna, a hawksbill turtle, and huge schools of trevallies, snappers, fusiliers, parrotfish and surgeonfish surrounded us in every direction.
hawksbill turtle Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Hawksbill Turtle
big eye trevally school Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
School of Big Eye Trevally
At Silvertip Bank, the action continued with nurse sharks and an abundance of reef life: scalefin anthias, redbar anthias, coral groupers, titan triggerfish, bird wrasse, raccoon butterflyfish, regal angelfish and blue-spined unicornfish moving across the reef.

During our navigation between dive sites, we were joined by a playful pod of dolphins riding the bow wave, effortlessly gliding alongside the boat and occasionally darting ahead before looping back again. One of those simple yet unforgettable moments that perfectly captures life at sea.
dolphins Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Dolphins Playing in the Waves
Blackwater dives revealed yet more pelagic wonders: barracuda larvae, flying fish, mantis shrimp larvae, shrimp larvae, dragonfish, glowing pyrosomes and drifting pencil squid completing the surreal night scene.
juvenile barracuda blackwater diving thierry lagraveAndaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Juvenile Barracuda in Blackwater | Thierry Lagrave
pyrosome and fish blackwater diving thierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Pyrosome and Fish in Blackwater | Thierry Lagrave
fish in jelly blackwater diving thierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Fish Sheltered in a Comb Jelly in Blackwater | Thierry Lagrave
pencil squid blackwater diving thierry lagraveAndaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Pencil Squid in Blackwater | Thierry Lagrave
dragon fish blackwater diving thierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Dragon Fish in Blackwater | Thierry Lagrave

Day 8 – Seafan Forest & Western Rocky

Seafan Forest offered a calmer but still beautiful dive, where large purple sea fans and soft coral trees swayed gently in the current. Stonefish rested perfectly camouflaged among the reef, while schools of yellowback fusiliers and neon fusiliers drifted past. Coral groupers and peacock groupers hovered near the reef, joined by powder-blue surgeonfish, Indian sailfin tang and clouds of anthias adding colour to the scene.
stonefish Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Stonefish
seafan Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Seafan Paradise
schools of fish Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Schools Over the Reef
At Western Rocky, the dives brought back a mix of macro and schooling fish, creating a perfect balance to end the trip. Inside the cave, a stonefish guarded the exit while giant moray eels watched from the shadows. Outside, ghostpipefish hovered near the islets and blue dragons and Chromodoris annulata added delicate splashes of colour to the reef.

​
Schools of fusiliers — including yellowback, twin stripe and neon fusiliers — mixed with giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies and passing barracuda circling the formations. Lionfish, scorpionfish and titan triggerfish filled the reef, while cleaner shrimps and squat shrimps animated the cracks, bringing the macro world back into focus.
doriprismatica atromarginata nudibranch thierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Doriprismatica atromarginata Nudibranch | Thierry Lagrave
crab thierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Tiny Crab | Thierry Lagrave
titan triggerfish Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Titan Triggerfish
As the evening started, under a calm, star-filled sky, we gathered on the upper deck for our traditional BBQ.
​

Stories from the trip flowed naturally between us — manta encounters at Black Rock, close passes with sharks on the Banks, and the countless macro discoveries that had kept everyone’s eyes glued to the reef. Laughter, shared moments and quiet reflections blended together, as plates filled and emptied and glasses were raised one last time.

Manta Ray at Black Rock | Camille Rovillain 

As the evening unfolded, the mood shifted from relaxed to celebratory. Music floated through the air and before long, the upper deck turned into an open-air dance floor. Barefoot under the stars, surrounded by the ocean, the night carried on with energy, laughter and dancing — the perfect way to celebrate a week that had delivered both unforgettable big encounters and the smallest hidden wonders.
​

It was more than just a dinner; it became a true celebration of the journey we had shared — from the vast blue of the Burma Banks to the intricate beauty of the reefs — a perfect closing chapter before returning to shore.
​
Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
sunset myanmar Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Sunset in Myanmar
BBq food Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
BBQ Spread!

Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell
​

The final dive at Dendro’s Peak wrapped up the trip with a blend of everything we had experienced. Nudibranchs decorated the reef while fimbriated moray eels peered from crevices. Batfish hovered in the current and trevallies passed through the blue.
frogfish thanda ko gyi  Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Frogfish | Thanda Ko Gyi
blenny thierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Blenny | Thierry Lagrave
crabs thierry lagrave Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Crabs | Thierry Lagrave
After surfacing, we made our way back to Kawthoung for Burmese immigration, shared a final drink at the Smile Bar and returned to Ranong, closing another unforgettable journey through the Mergui Archipelago and the Burma Banks aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse.
​

​Beyond the incredible encounters — from six individually identified manta rays at Black Rock to the endless diversity of nudibranchs and reef life — this trip also carried a deeper meaning. With Thanda on board, every sighting became part of a bigger picture, contributing to the understanding and protection of marine life in Myanmar waters.
​

It was a reminder that these remote ecosystems are not only places of beauty and adventure, but also fragile environments that depend on awareness, research and responsible diving. Exploring them is a privilege — helping to protect them is part of the journey.

Until the next tide brings us together again — dive well, dive aware, and see you soon, fellow divers.
dive buddies Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
Dive Buddies
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Trip report | 1st – 8th March 2026 | South & North Andaman Expedition

13/3/2026

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Liveaboard boat Koh Ha Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
​From rugged cliffs rising out of turquoise water to remote reefs pulsing with life, the Andaman Sea always rewards those who explore it patiently.
This week’s itinerary took us on a beautiful journey from the limestone islands of the South Andaman up to the vibrant reefs of the North Andaman. From Koh Phi Phi and Koh Lanta to the Similan and Surin National Parks, the route offered a wonderful contrast between dramatic pelagic encounters and intricate macro life hiding in the reefs.
chevron barracuda Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
School of Chevron Barracuda
coral reef Itai Grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Vibrant Soft Coral | Itai Grisaru

Day 1 – From Phuket to Koh Phi Phi National Park
​

​We departed from Charter Marine Pier in Phuket together with our Dive Buddy guests from Israel and began sailing toward the famous Phi Phi Islands. The Phi Phi National Park is known not only for its spectacular limestone cliffs rising straight out of pristine waters, but also for its vibrant coral reefs and sheltered bays that host a wide diversity of marine life. After a relaxed evening at anchor beneath towering cliffs, everyone was eager to begin diving the following morning.

Ready To Dive | Vélika Marquis

​Day 2 – Koh Phi Phi National Park & Koh Lanta National Park

Our check dive at Koh Bida Nok immediately reminded us why this site is so popular. Blacktip reef sharks cruised calmly along the reef edge while a tigertail seahorse and a ghostpipefish provided the first macro highlights of the trip. Flounders rested on sandy patches while feather seastars walked slowly across the reef. Schools of snappers gathered around coral heads and several Phyllidia species appeared alongside Hypselodoris bullocki, Hypselodoris iacula and purple-spotted Hypselodoris.
Purple urchin shrimps hid among spines, while banded sea snakes moved gracefully between rocks. A snowflake moray eel peeked from its shelter and Goniobranchus fidelis, Flabellina rubrolineata and decorator crabs added colourful details to the reef. Around us swam coral groupers, peacock groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, threadfin butterflyfish and schools of yellowback fusiliers moving through healthy coral gardens.
Banded Sea Krait Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Banded Sea Krait
ghost pipefish Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Ghost Pipefish | Itai Grisaru
Koh Haa Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Koh Haa | South Andaman | Thailand
Hypselodoris bullocki nudibranch Itai Grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Hypselodoris Bullocki Nudibranch | Itai Grisaru
Blacktip reef shark Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Blacktip Reef Shark
​The second dive took place in the calm Koh Haa Lagoon. A giant moray eel rested beneath coral bommies while juvenile clown triggerfish hovered nearby. A passing blacktip reef shark cruised over the sand as blue dragons glided along the reef. Macro highlights included Glossodoris rufomarginata, Halgerda tesselata, Janolus sp., Andaman jawfish and cardinalfish carrying eggs in their mouths. Bluestreak cleaner wrasse performed their cleaning dances while bicolor blennies watched from coral holes. Squat shrimps and lobsters shared rocky crevices as razor wrasse flashed across the reef
​The third dive brought us to the famous Koh Haa Cathedral, where shafts of sunlight illuminated the cavern. A juvenile hawksbill turtle glided slowly through the entrance while nudibranchs decorated the walls: Glossodoris hikuerensis, Bornella anguilla, Goniobranchus reticulata, Halgerda tesselata, Hypselodoris sp. and Glossodoris atromarginata. Skeleton shrimps clung to hydroids and a tiger cowrie rested beneath a coral ledge.
Halgerda Tesselata nudibranch itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Halgerda Tesselata Nudibranch | Itai Grisaru
hawsbill sea turtle Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Hawksbill Turtle
sunset hin daeng udi nehab Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Sunset at Hin Daeng | Udi Nehab
​Our night dive at Hin Daeng transformed the reef into a hunting ground. A giant moray eel prowled through the darkness while red reef crabs and ornamental spider crabs emerged from hiding. A red abalone rested on the rock and comb seastars stretched across the reef surface. Batfish and great barracuda passed slowly through the torchlight while Clark’s anemonefish guarded their eggs. Anemone hermit crabs and anemone crabs shared their hosts and a splendid red spooner crab waved its arms across the reef. Nearby, an ornate sap-sucking slug (Elysia) grazed along the coral.

Day 3 – Koh Lanta National Park
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​The morning began at Koh Rock, where colourful reefs hosted large schools of parrotfish and wrasses. A rare big feathertail stingray glided across the sandy bottom while a mimic phyllidia nudibranch rested beside Hypselodoris jacksoni. Stonefish blended perfectly into the reef and a banded sea snake moved slowly between coral heads. Clark’s anemonefish nurtured their eggs while anemone crabs guarded their homes.
Goniobranchus geminus, script flatworms, bluefin trevally and dragonets appeared across the reef. Lobsters hid beneath rocks while hairy shrimps, whip coral cowries, Flabellina rubrolineata, blue dragons and Ceratosoma tribolatum added a beautiful macro layer.
Goniobranchus geminus Itai Grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Goniobranchus Geminus | Itai Grisaru
Hairy Shrimp Itai Grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Hairy Shrimp | Itai Grisaru
clark's anemonefish eggs Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Clark's Anemonefish with Eggs
Giant moray eel Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Giant Moray Eel
Flabellina Rubrolineata Itai Grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Flabellina Rubrolineata | Itai Grisaru
​At Hin Daeng, the reef exploded with life. Juvenile emperor angelfish shimmered in yellow and blue while tiger cowries rested beneath coral ledges. Barracudas circled above the reef while Goniobranchus reticulata, Goniobranchus geometrica and spotted Hypselodoris decorated the walls. Giant moray eels and bartail morays hid among cracks where masked porcupinefish shared shelters with banded boxer shrimps. Batfish cruised past while turtles, ghostpipefish, yellow-margin moray eels and mackerels passed through the blue.
​The third dive at Koh Haa Neua – the Chimney delivered exceptional macro life. Glossodoris cincta, ghostpipefish, tiger egg cowries, Cuthona sibogae, Bornella anguilla, ornate sap-sucking slugs and Moridilla brocki decorated the walls. Hypselodoris maculosa, Hypselodoris whitei, Caloria indica and bicolor flabellina added vibrant colours while lobsters hid between rocks. Schools of yellowback fusiliers and lunar fusiliers swirled above the reef together with copperband butterflyfish, Indian sailfin tang, coral grouper and blue-striped snappers.
After the final dive, we began our northern crossing toward the Similan National Park.
Juvenile emperor angelfish Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Juvenile Emperor Angelfish
fusiliers schooling Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
School of Fusiliers
itai grisaru soft coral Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Soft Coral Reef | Itai Grisaru

Day 4 – Similan National Park
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​Our first dive took place in Honeymoon Bay, where a large Jenkins ray rested peacefully on the sandy bottom.
At Tuna Wreck and Hideaway Reef, excellent visibility revealed giant sweetlips, a curious Napoleon wrasse and a delicate pygmy pipehorse. The psychedelic batwing slug added colour to the reef while schools of yellowback fusiliers, twinstripe fusiliers and blue-striped snappers swirled above the wreck. Coral groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, threadfin butterflyfish and oriental sweetlips patrolled the reef.
Napoleon wrasse Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Napoleon Wrasse
tuna wreck Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Tuna Wreck | Itai Grisaru
Pygmy pipehorse Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Pygmy Pipehorse | Itai Grisaru
​At West of Eden, the macro world shined once again. A psychedelic batwing slug and kissing pygmy pipehorses were highlights, while a mantis shrimp watched from its burrow. Squat shrimps, darkspotted flatworms and Xenia crabs decorated the reef and MacKosker’s flasher wrasse flashed bright colours. Pipefish hovered in the current and during our surface interval a giant green turtle swam right beside the boat to greet us.
Green Turtle Visits the Boat| Camille Rovillain
​The night dive at Honeymoon Bay was full of activity. Trevallies hunted among schools of small reef fish while porcupinefish and pufferfish cruised slowly through the sand patches. Barracudas passed in the distance while red reef crabs carrying eggs moved across the reef. Moray eels hunted actively and sleeping parrotfish and wrasses rested beneath coral ledges.
batwing sea slug itai grisaruThailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Psychadelic Batwing Sea Slug | Itai Grisaru
Peacock mantis shrimp Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Peacock Mantis Shrimp

Day 5 – Similan National Park
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​At Deep Six, a whitetip reef shark cruised the reef while a turtle swam past granite boulders. An octopus shifted colours across the rocks while blue dragons and psychedelic batwing slugs decorated the reef. Powder-blue surgeonfish, copperband butterflyfish, oriental sweetlips and schools of neon fusiliers filled the water column.
Elephant Head Rock delivered dramatic granite formations. A blue ribbon eel waved from its burrow while an octopus explored the reef. Bornella anguilla and blue dragons appeared on the rocks beside an adult yellow boxfish. Giant trevallies and bluefin trevallies cruised through the arches while surgeonfish and oriental sweetlips gathered around coral heads. A giant moray eel watched divers from its cave.
bornella anguilla nudibranch itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Bornella Anguilla Nudibranch | Itai Grisaru
school barracuda Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
School of Barracuda
​At Three Trees, a school of barracuda hovered in the blue above giant sweetlips and garden eels. Blue-spotted Kuhls rays rested on the sand and a giant barrel sponge dominated the reef structure. Schools of blue-lined snappers, yellowback fusiliers and scissortail fusiliers moved constantly across the reef.
​That evening’s blackwater dive was spectacular: male and female paper nautilus drifting gracefully, juvenile porcupinefish, squirrelfish larvae, squids, flounders and even a flying gurnard drifting through the beam of our lights.
male paper nautilus blackwater diving Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Blackwater Male Paper Nautilus
blackwater diving larval shrimp itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Blackwater Shrimp | Itai Grisaru
blackwater diving larval fish itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Blackwater Juvenile Acanthuridae Fish | Itai Grisaru
blackwater diving worm Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Blackwater Worm | Itai Grisaru
blackwater diving squid itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Blackwater Squid | Itai Grisaru
flying gurnard blackwater diving itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Blackwater Flying Gurnard | Itai Grisaru
blackwater larval heteropod itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Blackwater Larval Heteropod | Itai Grisaru
blackwater diving larval cusk eel  itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Blackwater Larval Cusk Eel | Itai Grisaru
blackwater diving juvenile porcupinefish itai grisaruThailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Blackwater Juvenile Porcupine Fish | Itai Grisaru

Day 6 – Similan National Park
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​At Koh Bon Ridge, schools of barracuda circled above giant trevallies and bluefin trevallies. Damselfish, butterflyfish and two-tone dartfish hovered above the reef while Clark’s anemonefish guarded their homes. Titan triggerfish, redtooth triggerfish and the distinctive “WiFi triggerfish” moved across the reef alongside pajama surgeonfish. Nudibranchs such as Haminoea cymbalum and Chelidonura hirundinina and Chelidonura punctata decorated the sand while a banded sea snake slithered past. Andaman sweetlips hovered near coral ledges.
Haminoea cymbalum nudibranch itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Haminoea Cymbalum Nudibranch | Itai Grisaru
squat shrimp udi nehab Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Squat Shrimp | Udi Nehab
​Koh Tachai Plateau was spectacular. Blacktip sharks and Jenkins rays cruised across the plateau while a massive school of chevron barracuda filled the blue. Giant trevallies, bigeye trevallies, dogtooth tuna and rainbow runners hunted actively. Giant marble groupers rested near coral bommies while yellowback and neon fusiliers formed massive clouds above the reef. A juvenile hawksbill turtle swam past and clown triggerfish hovered near coral heads while whip coral gobies hid among gorgonians.
dive buddies Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Dream Diving Team | Itai Grisaru
Picture
Photographer Over the Reef | Itai Grisaru
​On the third dive from the third pinnacle to the main plateau we encountered two more Jenkins rays, a curious Napoleon wrasse and two octopuses flirting among the rocks. Giant trevallies and bluefin trevallies cruised through dense schools of yellowback fusiliers while giant moray eels and batfish watched from the reef.
The night dive on Koh Tachai Reef revealed Glossodoris, Elysia species and Halgerda tesselata. A blacktip reef shark cruised through the darkness while a giant moray eel hunted along the reef.
doriprismatica nudibranch laying eggs itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Doriprismatica Nudibranch Laying Eggs | Itai Grisaru
garden eels itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Garden Eels | Itai Grisaru

Day 7 – Surin National Park
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​We returned to Richelieu Rock for three spectacular dives. Purple soft corals covered the pinnacle while glassfish formed shimmering clouds around the rock. Harlequin shrimps, ghostpipefish and thorny seahorses delighted macro lovers while Durban dancing shrimps, orange-spotted pipefish and cleaner pipefish filled the reef with activity.
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Giant trevallies and the famous Richelieu “gang” — rainbow runners, trevallies and longnose emperors — hunted through the schools of fish. Barracudas formed impressive formations including chevron, yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda. Peacock mantis shrimps, banded boxer shrimps and blue-legged boxer shrimps decorated the reef while giant moray eels and a zebra moray eel emerged from their holes. Scorpionfish and devil scorpionfish rested on the reef while batfish and juvenile emperor angelfish cruised nearby.
seahorse itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Seahorse | Itai Ggisaru
glassfish coral reef itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Glassfish On The Reef | Itai Grisaru
sea fan itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Sea Fan | Itai Grisaru
whip coral shrimp itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Whip Coral Shrimp | Itai Grisaru
harlequin shrimp itai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Harlequin Shrimp | Itai Grisaru
​Our sunset dive at Ao Pakard (Cabbage Bay) revealed a vibrant coral reef. A hawksbill turtle swam slowly past while schools of juvenile barracuda hovered above the reef. Sailfin tang surgeonfish grazed alongside yellow saddle goatfish, angelfish and triggerfish. Kuhls blue-spotted stingrays rested on the sand while blue dragons, juvenile scorpionfish and juvenile mantis shrimps appeared among coral rubble.

Day 8 – Return to Ranong
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​The final morning began at Torinla Pinnacle, where Koran angelfish swam alongside surgeonfish, butterflyfish and giant moray eels. A whitetip shark slept beneath a rock while a school of bumphead parrotfish passed slowly through the reef. Kuhls blue-spotted rays glided across the sandy patches and a bright yellow “Pikachu” nudibranch delighted photographers.

The Richelieu Rock "Gang" | Udi Nehab

​For the final dive at Richelieu Rock, the reef delivered a grand finale. The gang returned once more: trevallies, longnose emperors and a ball of jacks swirling through the water column. Barracudas formed impressive schools while juvenile clown triggerfish and juvenile emperor angelfish hovered over the reef. Thorny seahorses, ghostpipefish and tiger cowries with their eggs decorated the coral. Hypselodoris decorata, dark-margin glossodoris and blue dragons added colour while peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows. Schools of yellowback fusiliers, lunar fusiliers and manylined fusiliers filled the water column above coral groupers, copperband butterflyfish and powder-blue surgeonfish.
​Soon after surfacing, we began sailing back toward Ranong — closing another unforgettable Andaman adventure aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse.
Until the next tide brings us together again — dive well, dive aware, and see you soon fellow divers.
happy divers Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Happy Divers!
photographer itiai grisaru Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Photographer Extraordinaire - Itai Grisaru
dive buddies Thailand Andaman Liveaboard Scuba Diving Cruise
Photographer Udi Nehab and Dive Buddy Yiftah Shelef
Photography by Franck Fogarolo, Itai Grisaru, Udi Nehab and Vélika Marquis​
Videography by Camille Rovillain and Vélika Marquis
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Trip report, 20th–27th February 2026, Thailand North and South Andaman Excursion

2/3/2026

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Batwing Sea Slug Itai Grisaru Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Batwing Sea Slug | Itai Grisaru
Some trips lean toward pelagic action. Others toward patient macro exploration. This North to South Andaman crossing gave us both.
This North-to-South Andaman expedition took us through four marine national parks — Surin, Similan, Koh Lanta and Tarutao — before finishing in Phuket. A true cross-section of Thailand’s Andaman Sea. 

This trip became a beautiful contrast between “the big” and “the small” — manta encounters, shark sightings and hunting trevallies on one side… and delicate nudibranchs, shrimps and ghost pipefish on the other.
Bait Ball and Big Eye Trevally Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Big Eye Trevally Swimming Into a Bait Ball
Shore visit on the dinghy Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Shore Visits on the Dinghy
Surface view Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
A View From the Surface
Big Eye Trevally Hunting Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Big Eye Trevally Hunting

Day 1 – From Ranong to Surin National Park

We welcomed our divers from Buddy Divers Israel in Ranong and began our journey southward. The route would take us through Surin National Park first, then down to the Similan Islands, further south to Koh Lanta and Tarutao, before heading back north toward Phuket.
A true Andaman traverse...

Day 2 – Surin National Park

Our check dive at Koh Chi Reef offered calm conditions and crystal-clear visibility. The Surin Islands, home to the Moken sea nomads, are known for their gentle sandy slopes and vibrant coral gardens.
 
False anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish hovered over magnificent sea anemones while moray eels peered from coral heads. Schools of five-lined snappers moved in tight formation above the reef. Blue-barred parrotfish and bullethead parrotfish grazed over staghorn coral and honeycomb coral formations.
 
Cleaner wrasse, moon wrasse and sixline wrasse worked busily along the reef, while hawksbill turtles glided past. Slender Roboastra, orange-spotted Chelidonura, sea cucumbers, black diadema sea urchins and feather stars dotted the seabed.
Anemonefish Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Anemonefish
turtle Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Turtle
reef fish Itai Grisaru Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Reef Fish | Itai Grisaru
Then came Richelieu Rock.
 
If there is a place where “big versus macro” truly coexist, it is here.
 
The “gang” was in full hunting mode: giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, bigeye trevallies and massive schools of rainbow runners sweeping through clouds of glassfish. Yellowtail and chevron barracudas cruised the perimeter. A shy black manta passed in the blue for one lucky group.
Richelieu Rock Hunting Fish Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Feeding Frenzy at Richelieu Rock
Richelieu Rock Hunting Fish Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
"The Gang" Hunting at Richelieu Rock
Black oceanic manta ray Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Black Oceanic Manta Ray
White-eye, fimbriated and giant moray eels filled nearly every crack. Yellowback fusiliers and two-spot fusiliers swirled above schools of five-lined snappers.

 Meanwhile, macro lovers were glued to the rock: Chromodoris annulata, Cuthona sibogae, Chromodoris geometrica, slender Roboastra, and delicate thorny seahorse and a couple of harlequin shrimps hiding into pink and purple soft corals covering the pinnacle.
Thorny Seahorse Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Thorny Seahorse
Flabellina nudibranch Itai Grisaru Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Flabellina Nudibranch | Itai Grisaru
The night dive shifted the mood completely. Glossodoris atromarginata, orange-tip Flabellina, Moridilla brocki, Bicolor Flabellina, reef crabs, blunt decorated crabs, squat shrimps and banded boxer shrimps emerged. Morays hunted actively and cuttlefish drifted through the beam of torches.
 Big by day. Intricate by night.
Picture
Harlequin Shrimp Pair | Itai Grisaru
Nudibranch with eggs Itai Grisaru Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Nudibranch Laying Eggs | Itai Grisaru

Day 3 – Similan National Park

Koh Tachai Pinnacle greeted us with explosive fish action. Yellowback, neon, manylined and blue-and-gold fusiliers streamed in the current.
Massive marble groupers and coral groupers rested along granite slopes. Peacock groupers, steephead parrotfish, blue-barred parrotfish and bullethead parrotfish grazed constantly.

Moon wrasse, bird wrasse and pastel green wrasse flashed between coral heads. Batfish hovered in the blue. Blueface angelfish and royal angelfish added vibrant colour.
Hard coral bommies, table corals and giant sea fans framed the scene.
Guest Photographer Itai Grisaru Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Guest Photographer Extraordinaire Itai Grisaru
Lionfish Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Lionfish
At Koh Tachai Reef, blacktip reef sharks cruised the shallow reef edge while halgerda tesselata rested near sand patches. Common porcupinefish and yellowdot pufferfish hovered near cracks guarded by giant moray eels. Durban dancing shrimps decorated coral heads.
 
Koh Bon Ridge delivered octopus encounters, Haminoea cymbalum, batfish and oriental sweetlips over powder-blue surgeonfish and lined surgeonfish. Glassfish filled the bay in thick clouds.
 
Blackwater that night brought a completely different universe: purple back squid, lizardfish post-larvae, pyrosomes, tuna larvae, lionfish larvae, butterflyfish post-larvae, triggerfish larvae, coral eggs, female paper nautilus, veligers, crab zoea, tozuma shrimp and even an immortal jellyfish.
Squid Blackwater Diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Squid in Blackwater
larval triggerfish Blackwater Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Larval Triggerfish in Blackwater
female peper nautilus argonaut blackwater diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Female Paper Nautilus
Immortal jellyfish blackwater diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Immortal Jellyfish in Blackwater
larval lionfish blackwater diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Larval Lionfish in Blackwater

Day 4 – Similan Islands

Three Trees started with garden eels swaying in sandy flats and blue-spotted Kuhls rays feeding nearby. Massive barrel sponges crowned granite boulders.
 
One group spotted a guitar shark — a ray-like shark species combining traits of both families — gliding along the seabed.
 
Schools of yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers and scissortail fusiliers mixed with five-lined snappers and yellow saddle goatfish. Great barracuda and dogtooth tuna patrolled deeper edges.
 
Elephant Head Rock delivered blue ribbon eels, adult boxfish, giant trevallies and juvenile clown triggerfish among swim-throughs framed by antler coral and leather coral.
juvenile clown triggerfish Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Juvenile Clown Triggerfish
ribbon eel itai grisaru Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Blue Ribbon Eel | Itai Grisaru
West of Eden gave us Thorunna chromodoris, psychedelic batwing seaslug, hairy shrimp and mating octopus pairs. Giant blue-lined pufferfish hovered above the reef alongside copperband butterflyfish and regal angelfish.
batwing sea slug Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Batwing Sea Slug
hairy shrimp Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Hairy Shrimp

Day 5 – Koh Lanta National Park

Hin Mueang opened with dramatic walls covered in red soft coral and sea fans. Glossodoris hikuerensis and its eggs decorated the slopes. Trevallies and rainbow runners swept through yellowback and neon fusilier schools.
 
Coral groupers, blacktip groupers and brown marble groupers hid among hard coral ridges. Powder-blue surgeonfish, velvet surgeonfish and Indian mimic surgeonfish crossed the current.
 
Hin Daeng amplified the “big” feeling: batfish, Napoleon wrasse, giant trevallies and dogtooth tuna patrolled the vertical reef. Ghost pipefish hovered delicately near soft corals.
 
Butterflyfish including threadfin butterflyfish, raccoon butterflyfish and Meyer’s butterflyfish added colour, while emperor angelfish and semicircle angelfish patrolled mid-water.
 
Macro remained strong with nudibranchs scattered across the slopes.
 
Blackwater that evening revealed comb jellies hosting isopods and pelagic gastropods drifting through the darkness.
larval crab  blackwater diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Larval Crab in Blackwater
gastropod and amphipod blackwater diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Gastropod and Amphipod in Blackwater
Blackwater Diving Entry Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Ready for Blackwater Diving!
pelagic worm blackwater diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Pelagic Worm in Blackwater
amphipod comb jelly blackwater diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Amphipod on a Comb Jelly

Day 6 – Koh Tarutao National Park

Eight Mile, near the Malaysian border, offered a striking yellow and pink coral-covered pinnacle dotted with sea urchins. Schools of jacks and rainbow runners hovered above.
 
Juvenile semicircle angelfish, juvenile blue-ringed angelfish, juvenile emperor angelfish and regal angelfish contrasted beautifully with the darker reef backdrop.
 

soft coral Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Vibrant Soft Coral
Stonehenge showcased purple and pink soft corals clinging to sculpted rock formations. A thorny seahorse clung to gorgonians. Yellow-edge moray eels and giant moray eels guarded crevices while tomato anemonefish and masked porcupinefish completed the reef tableau.
 
Koh Sawang at sunset displayed titan triggerfish, giant blue-lined pufferfish, regal angelfish, coral groupers and schools of fusiliers under golden light.
 
Blackwater revealed larval tonguefish, gastropods mating, pelagic worms and drifting crustaceans.
pelagic worm blackwater diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Pelagic Worm in Blackwater
larval tonguefish blackwater diving itai grisaru Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Larval Tonguefish in Blackwater | Itai Grisaru
mating sea butterfly blackwater diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Mating Sea Butterflies in Blackwater
larval snail blackwater diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Larval Snail in Blackwater
larval shrimp blackwater diving Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Larval Shrimp in Blackwater

Day 7 – Koh Lanta

Hin Mueang again delivered ghost pipefish, juvenile emperor angelfish, halgerda tesselata and African wrasse.
 
Hin Daeng brought double-spotted queenfish, barracudas, needlefish and more dogtooth tuna, alongside orange-spotted pipefish and lobsters hiding under ledges.​
ghost pipefish itai grisaru Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Ghost Pipefish | Itai Grisaru
halgerda tessellata nudibranch itai grisaru Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Halgerda Tessellata Nudibranch | Itai Grisaru
Koh Haa Cathedral provided classic cavern drama: whip coral shrimp, banded sea snake, cleaner pipefish, twin goniobranchus, Cuthona sibogae, Glossodoris hikuerensis, and dark-margin glossodoris with eggs.
 
At Koh Haa Chimney, a banded sea snake guarded the interior cave while Bornella anguilla waited at the exit. Skeleton shrimps and ornate sapsucking slugs clung to soft coral branches.
​
The day ended with our traditional BBQ under the stars.
bornella anguilla nudibranch itai grisaru Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Bornella Anguilla Nudibranch | Itai Grisaru
sap sucking slug itai grisaru Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Sap Sucking Slug | Itai Grisaru
group photo Thailand Scuba Diving Liveaboard
Happy Group on BBQ Night!

Day 8 – Koh Phi Phi National Park

Koh Bida Nok welcomed us with blacktip reef sharks cruising the reef. Tiger-tail seahorses and ghost pipefish clung to soft corals. Schools of yellow-lined snappers and yellowback fusiliers swirled around healthy hard coral formations.

Eagle Ray at Shark Point | Video Taken by Dive Guide Vélika

At Shark Point, a not-so-shy eagle ray joined our final dive, swimming alongside schools of yellowback fusiliers, five-lined snappers, yellowtail and chevron barracudas. Cadlinella ornatissima rested quietly on the reef.
happy divers Thailand scuba diving Liveaboard
Happy Divers
 cadlinella ornatissima nudibranch itai grisaru Thailand scuba diving Liveaboard
Cadlinella Ornatissima Nudibranch | Itai Grisaru
From pelagic mantas and hunting trevallies to delicate nudibranchs and larval life, this trip perfectly balanced the immense and the microscopic.
 
Another North to South Andaman journey comes to an end — and once again, the Smiling Seahorse delivered both spectacle and subtlety in equal measure.
 
Until next time.
 
Photo by Franck Fogarolo & Itai Grisaru
Koh Haa  cadlinella ornatissima nudibranch itai grisaru Thailand scuba diving Liveaboard
A View of Koh Haa
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