April greeted us with calm seas, radiant skies, and a boat brimming with international energy as divers from Belgium, France, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Italy stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Together, we set off on an unforgettable journey through the stunning Mergui Archipelago and the remote Burma Banks during our highly anticipated Manta Ray Expedition. Promising close encounters with ocean giants and elusive marine wonders, this trip didn’t just meet expectations—it exceeded them.

What made this expedition truly exceptional was the presence of Scarlett Taylor, a marine biologist from Canada with a Master’s degree in Biology from Dalhousie University. Scarlett brought a wealth of knowledge and infectious enthusiasm, sharing captivating insights into manta ray behavior, shark ecology, and the importance of protecting critical marine habitats. Drawing from her experience with the Manta Trust and her current work with Global Reef in Thailand, she hosted daily talks that deepened our understanding and appreciation of the incredible creatures we encountered beneath the waves.

Once we cleared immigration in Kawthoung, we set a course northwest into Burmese waters, ready to explore the untamed heart of the Andaman Sea.

Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the adventure ahead. A delicate Tiger Tail Seahorse nestled gracefully among the corals stole the show, while a curious Cowfish drifted by like a miniature UFO. We cruised alongside a shimmering school of Pickhandle Barracudas, silver scales catching the sunlight, as Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef edges with quiet authority. In the cracks and coral bommies, Butterflyfish flitted about while bold little Damselfish held their ground, helping us ease back into the rhythm of the deep.
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Next, we headed to Ba Wei, where a striking black Ribbon Eel waved like a ribbon of ink from its burrow, and a pair of elegant Jann’s Pipefish twirled delicately among soft coral tendrils. At the cleaning stations, Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasses hovered with purpose, ready for business, while vibrant Angelfish and shimmering Anthias painted the reef in brilliant hues.

We capped off the day at South Twin, where a lively current brought in the big fish. Bluefin and Giant Trevallies swept past with power, joined by the lightning-fast Rainbow Runners. Yet even amid the rush, we paused to admire the more subtle beauty—Moorish Idols and Bannerfish swaying gracefully in the swell. As night fell, we slipped beneath the surface once more for a mysterious dive in South Twin Bay. There, Parrotfish dozed inside their protective mucous cocoons, and stealthy Lionfish prowled through rocky crevices, adding a touch of nighttime drama to an already magical day.

We dedicated a full day to exploring the wonders of the Shark Cave area, diving between Shark Cave, Square Rock, and Submarine. Each site delivered in spades. A shy Bamboo Shark peeked from beneath a rocky ledge, while Tiger Tail Seahorses clung delicately to sea fans swaying in the shallows. Five Marble Rays glided past in graceful formation, skimming over coral gardens teeming with life—Tomato Clownfish darting through anemones, curious Cuttlefish drifting by, and schools of Batfish swirling like a slow-motion ballet overhead.

The macro magic was just as mesmerizing. Electric-hued Chromodoris nudibranchs lit up the reef, cryptic Decorator Crabs disguised themselves among the rubble, and alien-like Xeno Crabs gripped tightly to whip corals, looking like creatures from another planet. Meanwhile, Gold Spot Trevallies zipped through the shallows in gleaming flashes, as the reef bustled with a kaleidoscope of Wrasses, Groupers, and Triggerfish going about their vibrant, busy lives.

Black Rock never fails to impress—and today, it truly outdid itself. Across four exhilarating dives, we were treated to four manta ray sightings, including two unforgettable close encounters with majestic oceanic mantas. One glided directly overhead, lingering in the dappled sunlight as our bubbles rose to meet it—an awe-inspiring moment that left the entire group breathless with wonder.

Below and around us, schools of Big Eye Trevallies moved like rolling silver waves, creating a mesmerizing backdrop to the manta magic. In the reef’s quieter corners, diligent Harlequin Shrimps nibbled away at sea stars, their intricate patterns standing out against the rocky crevices. A ghostly White Devil Scorpionfish, nearly indistinguishable from the stone it rested on, reminded us just how much goes unnoticed until you truly look.

The entire reef pulsed with energy—Snappers darted in tight formation, Surgeonfish weaved through the chaos, and Sweetlips hovered with their signature pout. Black Rock delivered a sensory feast, once again proving why it’s one of the crown jewels of the Andaman Sea.

At North Twin Pinnacle, the blue came alive with motion and grace. Four Eagle Rays soared past like underwater kites, effortlessly gliding through the open water. All around us, Fusiliers streamed in dazzling bursts of blue and yellow, like living confetti swirling on the current. Below, the reef buzzed with life—Snappers and regal Emperor Angelfish filled the coral-scape, occasionally parting to make way for larger visitors, including a sleek Tuna cruising by in the distance during our third dive at North Twin Reef.

The Burma Banks unfolded before us like a dreamscape of the deep—vast, remote, and teeming with life. Over eight thrilling dives, we shared encounters that will be etched in memory for years to come. In the golden afternoon light, three Bull Sharks patrolled a ridge with quiet dominance, while a passing Tiger Shark sent a ripple of adrenaline through the group, hearts pounding in unison.

Beneath coral overhangs, Nurse Sharks lay in calm repose, while a juvenile Grey Reef Shark darted with youthful agility through a swirling school of Trevally. A graceful Turtle glided by, utterly unbothered by our presence, as if we were just another current in its path. Meanwhile, enormous Marble Rays stirred the sandy bottom with their powerful wings, sending Gobies and Sand perch scattering like leaves in the wind.

The Burma Banks delivered wild beauty in every direction—a raw and humbling reminder of the ocean’s power, mystery, and grace.

As we made our way back toward the Western Rocky area, Seafan Forest welcomed us with one last breathtaking surprise—a graceful Hammerhead Shark gliding past in a silent, unforgettable flyby (unfortunately not captured by any camera!).

Tucked among the swaying sea fans, another perfectly camouflaged Tigertail Seahorse revealed itself, while Stonefish lurked in plain sight, waiting to be discovered. In the shallows, Cuttlefish shimmered with vibrant color displays, their bodies flashing like living neon signs. Our macro luck held steady with one final encounter—a charming pair of Harlequin Shrimps, closing the loop on a week of small, spectacular finds.

At The Cave and Eagle Rock, the weird and wonderful made their curtain call. A hulking Giant Frogfish rested motionless in the open, its shape barely distinguishable from the coral around it. A cleverly hidden Elbow Crab and a regal Slipper Lobster reminded us once more that in the underwater world, magic hides in the details—and the surprises truly never stop.

As we sailed back toward Thailand, the sun dipped below the horizon, closing the chapter on a week filled with manta ballets, thrilling shark encounters, and kaleidoscopic coral gardens. With Scarlett’s expert insights adding depth to every dive, and a spirited crew of divers from around the world sharing the experience, this Manta Ray Expedition became more than a trip—it became a story we’ll be telling for years.

Already dreaming of the next one? So are we...

For this Whale Shark Expedition, we were thrilled to welcome aboard the M/V Smiling Seahorse a diverse group of divers from Romania, France, the USA, and Australia. Adding to the excitement, we were joined by Josh Johnson, a marine biologist specializing in whale shark conservation. Based in Koh Tao, Josh is a graduate of the University of Plymouth’s BSc Ocean Science and Marine Conservation program.

Josh shared fascinating insights into whale shark biology, ecology, and conservation:
“Although they are the largest fish in the world, they remain one of the least studied sharks globally, especially in Thai waters. With so much still to learn about them, it is crucial to explore new methods for monitoring their migration patterns and feeding hotspots. This allows us to implement the best conservation strategies to protect these gentle giants.”

Setting sail from Phuket on March 23rd, we first explored Koh Lanta National Park and Koh Tarutao National Park for three days before heading north to discover the wonders of the Similan and Surin National Parks. Each of these marine sanctuaries is a jewel of the Andaman Sea, boasting a unique blend of stunning underwater landscapes, thriving marine life, and vibrant coral ecosystems.
    •    Koh Lanta National Park is renowned for its dramatic limestone formations and rich marine biodiversity.
    •    Koh Tarutao, the largest national park in the Andaman, remains a pristine paradise with spectacular reefs and abundant pelagic life.
    •    The Similan Islands, world-famous for their breathtaking granite boulders and crystal-clear waters, offer incredible diving experiences with flourishing coral gardens and deep pinnacles.
    •    Surin National Park, home to the legendary Richelieu Rock, features one of Thailand’s most spectacular dive sites, teeming with marine life and a prime location for large pelagic encounters.

This unforgettable expedition combined breathtaking scenery, exceptional dives, and invaluable knowledge, leaving us all with a deeper appreciation for whale sharks and their conservation.

Our check dive at Koh Ha Lagoon provided a smooth and scenic introduction to the trip. Among the coral bommies, we spotted a perfectly camouflaged Ornate Ghost Pipefish, swaying gently with the current, while a curious Coral Grouper patrolled its reef territory. Schools of Yellowback Fusiliers darted through the water, accompanied by striking Emperor Angelfish, adding bursts of vibrant color to the scene.

In the afternoon and evening, we explored Hin Mueang and Hin Daeng, where the reefs were teeming with life. A Clown Frogfish, perfectly still and expertly blended into a sponge, caught our attention. Nearby, pairs of Ornate Ghost Pipefish hovered delicately in the water. Overhead, Red-Toothed Triggerfish swirled in mesmerizing formations, while Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef in search of prey. Schools of Rainbow Runners flashed by in unison, and among the hard corals, we admired a striking Peacock Grouper and a Blue-Barred Parrotfish lazily grazing.

​The morning began at Hin Paad Mile, where Giant Trevallies moved in synchronized schools, their silver bodies flashing as they sliced through the water. Beneath a coral ledge, a massive Potato Grouper rested, watching us with a slow, deliberate gaze. Around us, schools of Bengal Snappers and Blue-and-Gold Fusiliers shimmered, creating a breathtaking display of color and motion.

At Stonehenge, the highlight was a perfectly camouflaged Tigertail Seahorse, delicately gripping onto a sea fan. Nearby, an Indian Walkman lay in wait on the sand, its intricate fins blending seamlessly with the ocean floor.

Before crossing to the Similan Islands, we completed one last dive at Hin Mueang, where we revisited our Clown Frogfish and discovered a few new additions to the scene. Moorish Idols glided effortlessly above the reef, a school of Twinstripe Fusiliers darted between coral formations, and a well-camouflaged Bearded Scorpionfish lay hidden among the rocks, waiting patiently for unsuspecting prey.

Our dive at Shark Fin Reef welcomed us with a breathtaking spectacle of marine life—schools of Lunar Fusiliers swirled around us in a dazzling display, while Parrotfish crunched noisily on the reef, shaping the underwater landscape with every bite.

At West of Eden, we encountered a playful Octopus, shifting colors in a mesmerizing dance before our eyes. A Rock Mover Wrasse skillfully flipped coral rubble in search of hidden prey, while a Psychedelic Batwing Seaslug nestled discreetly in a crevice, adding a splash of vibrant color to the reef.

At Elephant Head Rock, the current carried us effortlessly past Giant Trevallies hunting in the blue, while a pair of Sweetlips hovered serenely beneath an overhang. In a sandy patch, a White Tip Reef Shark lay motionless, completely undisturbed by our presence.

We ended the day with a captivating night dive at Turtle Rock, where Basket Stars unfurled their intricate arms to feed, and Decorator Crabs, masterfully disguised with sponges and algae, scuttled stealthily across the seabed.

Xmas Point welcomed us with a vibrant display of reef life—from the dazzling flashes of Blue Striped Snappers to the sleek, steady glide of a Barracuda lurking in the distance.

At 3 Trees, a Blue Spotted Stingray lay half-buried in the sand, perfectly camouflaged, while a massive Potato Grouper loomed near the coral formations, surveying its domain.

Meanwhile, Koh Bon Pinnacle and West Ridge were alive with movement, as schools of Rainbow Runners and Longnosed Emperors wove effortlessly through the currents, creating a mesmerizing underwater ballet.

Returning to Koh Bon Pinnacle and West Ridge, we were greeted by Batfish, curiously circling around us, while Barracudas held their ground against the current.

Later, at Koh Tachai Pinnacle, we navigated through massive boulders draped in soft coral, discovering Lobsters tucked away in crevices, more Barracudas patrolling the reef, and a sleek Black Tip Reef Shark gliding effortlessly past—an exhilarating finale to an unforgettable dive.

Our final two days at Richelieu Rock were nothing short of spectacular. The site was teeming with life--Ornate Ghost Pipefish hovered gracefully among feather stars, Tigertail Seahorses clung to delicate sea whips, and Porcelain Crabs filtered plankton with meticulous precision. Banded Stick Pipefish wove through the reef, while Big Eye Trevallies and Giant Trevallies darted back and forth in a relentless hunting frenzy.

In the blue, schools of Barracudas hung motionless, suspended in perfect formation. We were mesmerized by a vast mixed school of Rainbow Runners, Emperors, and Big Eye Trevallies, moving in unison like a single, fluid entity. Red Snappers lurked near the coral formations, adding the final flourish to an already unforgettable experience.

As we sailed back to Ranong, the excitement and memories of the trip lingered among our group. The Whale Shark Expedition had given us not only breathtaking encounters with Thailand’s marine giants but also a deeper appreciation for the intricate beauty of the Andaman Sea’s underwater world.

Until next time, we carry with us the wonders of the deep and the hope for future encounters with the gentle giants we strive to protect.