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Trip report: 22nd to 28th December 2024, Christmas in Burmese waters

29/12/2024

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22nd of december 2024 liveaboard cruise report
​As Christmas drew near, we embarked on another unforgettable journey with MV Smiling Seahorse, this time venturing into the mesmerizing Burmese waters of the Mergui Archipelago. Guests from Germany, the UK, Australia, USA, Hong Kong, India, Switzerland, Belgium, and The Netherlands joined us, bringing an international flair to this festive trip. It was a pleasure welcoming back some old friends and making new ones this week!
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After leaving Ranong, we crossed the border into Burma, completing the necessary formalities in Kawthaung before heading into the Mergui Archipelago. This cluster of more than 800 islands is a pristine diving paradise, offering an untouched underwater world teeming with marine life and dramatic seascapes.
international guests heading to myanmar
kawthoung from the sundeck

Day 1: A Colorful Start to Our Adventure

We began the trip with a gentle check dive at High Rock. The underwater world welcomed us with cowfish, porcupine pufferfish, yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda swimming gracefully around us. Hidden among the sandy seabed, we spotted white-eyed moray eels and a perfectly camouflaged crocodile fish, while pipefish and cuttlefish added their elegance to the scene.

Our second dive at Dragon Island lived up to its name with vibrant marine life. We marveled at a banded sea snake gliding by, colorful chromodoris nudibranchs adorning the reef, and a dramatic moment as a cuttlefish laid eggs while its partner stood guard nearby. Schools of fusiliers, snappers, Moorish idols, and sergeant fish moved in unison, creating a captivating underwater ballet. Groupers and a curious snowflake moray eel completed the spectacle.

The third dive at Ba Wey, also known as Rainbow Rock, greeted us with a kaleidoscope of colors. Soft corals in shades of yellow, blue, pink, white, and red surrounded us. We spotted baby yellow boxfish, blue-spotted stingrays, and giant moray eels. Tiny critters such as Durban dancing shrimps and chromodoris nudibranchs added a touch of magic, while cuttlefish continued their egg-laying ritual.
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As night fell, we returned to Ba Wey for a mesmerizing night dive. The darkness brought out fascinating marine life, including giant moray eels, fimbriated moray eels, lobsters, and crabs. The reef was alive with small nocturnal creatures, such as spiny lobsters, soldierfish, soldier crabs, and squat shrimp gliding in the moonlit water.
crocodile fish have some of the prettiest eyes in the Andaman Sea
crocodile fish have some of the prettiest eyes in the Andaman Sea
giant moray in myanmar
Nudibranch come in all shapes ans colors
blue spotted sting ray

Day 2: Exploring the Three Islet AKA shark cave

The day began at Square Rock, where challenging visibility didn’t dampen the excitement. We were rewarded with sightings of a tiger tail seahorse, a swirling tornado of pickhandle barracudas, and banded baby pipefish. Schools of yellowfin jackfish, various colourful nudibranchs, and a blue-spotted stingray completed this thrilling dive.

Our second dive took us to Submarine, where schools of snappers, fusiliers, and jacks swirled around us. We discovered a bamboo shark resting in a crack, boxfish exploring the reef, and the elegant egg cowrie moving gracefully among the corals.
The day’s final dive at Shark Cave delivered on its name with a barracuda tornado and an array of moray eels, including honeycomb and fimbriated varieties. We also encountered marble rays and blue-spotted stingrays sharing the same bed under a rock, while cowfish, tomato anemonefish, and cleaning partner shrimp completed the vibrant reef life.
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We ended the day with an unforgettable Christmas BBQ night on board, surrounded by laughter and the festive spirit of our amazing guests. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of orange and pink, the aroma of sizzling delicacies filled the air.
Our international group of divers shared stories of their underwater adventures, raising glasses to the magic of the season and the camaraderie that had blossomed on this journey. With music, delicious food, and a starlit sky above, it was a night to remember—a perfect way to celebrate Christmas together in the heart of the Andaman Sea!
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Day 3: Stunning Sea Fans and a Dramatic Caves

Sea Fan Forest Pinnacle was our destination for the first two dives of the day. The site’s giant sea fans were home to treasures such as tiger tail seahorses and mating cuttlefish. Simon’s group was lucky enough to witness a fleeting visit from a small manta ray, while schools of yellow snappers and fusiliers, along with devil scorpionfish, made these dives truly memorable.

In the afternoon, we headed to Western Rocky for a dive at Eagle’s Nest. The highlight was a rare sight of two male cuttlefish battling for a mate, releasing clouds of ink during their duel. Nearby, a Maldivian sponge snail slowly made its way across the rocks, while batfish and a poison claw sea urchin added to the underwater drama.

The day ended with a dive through Western Rocky’s spectacular cave. We entered through an archway and swam through a tunnel beneath the island, emerging to a barracuda tornado and a massive school of jacks. Inside the cave, we spotted an elbow crab and marveled at colorful soft corals lining the walls.
grouper and giant seafan in Mergui Archipelago liveaboard
Myanmar liveaboard - vibrant soft coral

Day 4: Spectacular Burma Banks

We woke up surrounded by the open ocean, ready to explore Corner Bank. The first two dives of the day featured pristine waters with nurse sharks resting under bommies, Napoleon wrasse, and dogtooth tuna. A rare juvenile rock mover added to the excitement.
At Rainbow Bank, the marine life was equally stunning. Silvertip sharks, nurse sharks, and a juvenile clown triggerfish stole the show. The vibrant corals and excellent visibility showcased schools of fusiliers, a great barracuda, and moray eels.
Our final dive of the day at Silvertip Bank revealed a breathtaking hard coral garden dotted with bommies. Nurse sharks swam gracefully, while giant pufferfish, surgeonfish, potato groupers, and a silvertip shark contributed to the magic.
burma banks deep blue water
nurse shark in Burma banks

Day 5: Mantas at Dendros and Seafan Forest pinnacle

The day began with a breathtaking dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle, where an oceanic manta ray graced us with a fleeting visit. Schools of yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda, fusiliers, and nudibranchs highlighted the vibrant marine ecosystem.

Returning to Fan Forest Pinnacle for two more dives, we discovered even more treasures, including a yellow tiger tail seahorse, stonefish, and playful peacock mantis shrimp. Schools of snappers and fusiliers, along with two schools of yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda, plus a bustling coral garden, made these dives truly special.
At sunset, we dove at Eagle’s Nest, where Simon’s group had another thrilling encounter with a giant oceanic Manta.
The night dive in Western Rocky’s cave was equally mesmerizing, featuring vibrant soft corals and a juvenile giant red frogfish perched on a coral outside the arch. Sleeping parrotfish, pufferfish, and moray eels completed the colorful scene, while some blue dragons illuminated the entrance wall of the cave.
oceanic manta ray
giant frogfish perfectly camouflage in mergui
blue dragon nudibranch in Burma

Day 6: Wrapping Up at Dendro’s Pinnacle

​Our final dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle was a fitting end to this incredible trip. Schools of fusiliers, surgeonfish, jacks, and a curious octopus brought the adventure to a close.
Afterward, we returned to Kawthaung for border formalities and enjoyed some downtime in town before heading back to Ranong. Some guests visited the temple atop the hill, while others relaxed with a few local beers at the pier’s bar.
myanmar diving with octopus
cute pair of cuttlefish in mergui archipelago diving safari

A Christmas to Remember...

This Christmas trip brought together a wonderful group of divers and delivered extraordinary underwater experiences. Thank you to everyone who joined us—we can’t wait to dive with you again!
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Diving 4 of the best Marine national parks in Thailand and Wowed once more by Richelieu Rock - Trip report: December 1st to 8th 2024 -

11/12/2024

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South to North Andaman Adventure: 1st to 8th of December 2024

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Our latest journey aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse was a thrilling exploration of the Andaman Sea, moving from the vibrant reefs of the South to the world-renowned sites in the North. This special trip welcomed an energetic group of 16 Bulgarian divers from Go Live Bulgaria, departing from Phuket. With the golden hues of a blazing sunset over Phuket Island as our backdrop, we set off for a week of unforgettable underwater discoveries.
playing with a new lense at three trees
Giant seafan, soft corals and giant barrel sponge
scorpionfish under black coral
A scorpionfish under black coral

Day 1: Koh Lanta National Park – A Stunning Introduction

We began our adventure at Koh Haa with a relaxing check dive. The tranquil waters revealed schools of fusiliers and snappers, while a lionfish glided past and a beautiful sea slug rested on the white sandy bottom—a serene start to the trip.
At Hin Daeng, the underwater world came alive. We explored the vibrant red rock, surrounded by batfish, giant trevallies, and rainbow runners. The sight of a giant moray eel and a porcelain crab nestled in a white anemone brought smiles to everyone’s faces. Our dive at Hin Muang didn’t disappoint either, with a mix of bluefin trevallies, baby lobsters, and a boxing-arm shrimp adding to the excitement.
The night dive at Hin Daeng was a true spectacle. One group spotted a slipper lobster, while others were captivated by marbled shrimps, banded coral shrimps, and giant moray eels on the hunt. The reef was bustling with life, from decorator crabs to sleepy seal pufferfish, making for an unforgettable end to the first day.
Info lionfish on the reef of Tarutao national park
Lionfish on the reef of Tarutao National Park
yellow fusilier schooling
Beautiful yellow fusilier school
puffer fish on a pretty fishy 8 miles
Pufferfish behind seafan
big eye trevallies
Big eye trevallies

Day 2: Mu Koh Tarutao National Park – Secrets of the Reef

Our first dives at 8 Mile Rock were nothing short of magical. A school of African pompano shimmered in the clear water, and a lucky few spotted a tiger tail seahorse hiding among the corals. The highlight was a giant grouper cruising in open water, followed closely by a curious great barracuda.
At Stonehenge, the reef burst into color and life. From tiny scorpionfish blending into the rock to the ever-charming clownfish, every corner held a new surprise. Sighting of a blue dragon nudibranch and a playful group of saddleback clownfish rounded out a spectacular day.
titan triggerfish
Titan triggerfish
giant grouper
Impressive giant grouper

Day 3: Koh Lanta National Park – Mystical Caverns and Swim-throughs

The towering pinnacles of Hin Muang welcomed us with schools of giant trevallies darting around the top. At Koh Haa Cathedral, we explored breathtaking caves adorned with banded pipefish and shimmering schools of fish. The Chimney at Koh Haa offered thrilling swim-throughs, where we encountered seal-faced pufferfish, moray eels, and elegant sea fans.
As we set sail toward the Similan Islands in the afternoon, the anticipation grew for what lay ahead.
giant barrel sponge
Giant barrel sponge
similan island's most photogenic spot at Three Tree
Three Tree, Similan Islands

Day 4: Similan National Park – Crystal Clear Paradise

The Similan Islands welcomed us with remarkable visibility and dramatic underwater topography, setting the stage for a day of incredible dives.
We kicked off with a dive at Shark Fin Reef, an underwater haven for large pelagic and reef life alike. The sight of a graceful marble ray gliding over the sandy bottom was a highlight, while a curious Whitetip reef shark circled in the distance. Along the reef, a massive giant moray eel peeked out from its crevice, and colorful reef fish filled the scene. Schools of blue-dash fusiliers, yellowtail snapper, and Moorish idols darted between the coral formations. Closer to the reef, butterflyfish, triggerfish, and the ever-playful damselfish added a kaleidoscope of color.
At Elephant Head Rock, we explored intricate swim-throughs teeming with life. Among the highlights were two ribbon eels, their vivid colors a stunning contrast to the rocky outcrops, and two imposing great barracudas patrolling the area.
Our third dive at Tree Threes was an ethereal experience. The sandy bottom was a field of garden eels, and the massive barrel sponges and giant sea fans on the boulders added a dramatic backdrop.
The day ended with a sunset dive at Koh Bon West Ridge, where some divers opted to try their hand at a blackwater dive, venturing into the open ocean to marvel at bioluminescent plankton and the mysteries of the deep.
getting ready for a blackwater dive
Getting ready for a blackwater dive
shrimp blackwater diving thailand
Another cute baby shrimp
fish blackwater diving thailand
Surprised cute fish
fairy basslet photogrpahed on a blackwater dive
Fairy basslet
blackwater diving with shrimps
Colorful baby shrimp
psychedelic anemone on a blackwater dive in the Andaman Sea
Psychedelic anemone
flying gurnard from the top blackwater diving thailand
Flying gurnard from the top
pretty fish blackwater diving thailand
Another pretty fish
flounder blackwater diving thailand
Juvenile flounder
blue eyes crab larvae
A cute blue eyes crab larvae

Day 5: Similan National Park – Thrills at Every Pinnacle

The day began with a dive at Koh Bon Pinnacle, where crystal-clear waters revealed schools of yellow snappers, cleaning shrimps, and Maldivian sponge snails. The afternoon brought us to Koh Tachai Pinnacle, alive with giant groupers, Spanish mackerels, and batfish.
The sunset dive at Koh Tachai was the perfect finale to the day, with encounters ranging from bannerfish to porcelain crabs. Some divers chose a blackwater dive instead, marveling at the mysterious creatures that emerge from the depths.
sponge barrel home to a cute fish
Cute fish in giant barrel sponge
barracuda schooling similan
Barracudas schooling in Similan
batfish portrait in richelieu rock
Batfish portrait in Richelieu Rock

Day 6: Surin National Park – Richelieu Rock's Majestic Wonders

Richelieu Rock never fails to amaze, and our four dives here showcased its unmatched biodiversity. The site buzzed with marine life, starting with schools of giant trevally, rainbow runners, and yellowtail barracuda darting around the pinnacle. Closer to the reef, the vibrant colors of anemonefish, including tomato anemonefish and clark's anemonefish, were a delight to spot.
Our divers were captivated by the macro life hiding among the rocks. Peacock mantis shrimps scuttled across the sandy bottom, while Durban dancing shrimps and banded coral shrimps made their homes in crevices. A tiny white-eyed moray eel peeked out playfully, while larger giant moray eels lounged around their rocky dens.
The soft corals, swaying with the currents, provided shelter for a plethora of reef fish, including yellow boxfish, parrotfish, surgeonfish, and bluestreak cleaner wrasse busy at work. We also encountered devil scorpionfish, pipefish, and a few colorful nudibranchs. The highlight? Watching a school of batfish glide gracefully through the water, adding an elegant touch to the vibrant underwater scenery.
coral grouper on the vibrant reef of richelieu rock
Coral grouper on the vibrant reef of Richelieu Rock
trumpetfish posing in front of hard coral together with blue line snappers and squirrelfish
Trumpetfish in front of hard coral together with blue line snappers and squirrelfish

Day 7: Similan National Park – A Grand Finale

Our final dive at Koh Bon Pinnacle delivered an unforgettable end to the trip. Huge schools of batfish and yellow fusiliers danced in the sunlight, weaving around the pinnacle’s striking sea fans. A majestic green turtle made a surprise appearance, swimming calmly past the group, to everyone’s delight.
Closer to the reef, the bustling community of reef fish showcased the vibrant ecosystem. Bannerfish, emperor angelfish, sergeant majors, and spotted sweetlips mingled among the hard and soft corals. A small school of Indian mackerel dashed through, while scorpionfish lay camouflaged on the sandy patches. The giant barracuda lurking near the sea fans reminded us of the sheer diversity of life this pinnacle supports.
The crystal-clear visibility and abundance of marine life were the perfect farewell to a week filled with unforgettable underwater adventures. We surfaced with wide smiles and hearts full of gratitude for this magical experience.
thai flag in Shark fin reef
nice smiley diver ready for the next dive
Ready for the next dive!!!
The dream team at The Smiling Seahorse
The dream team at The Smiling Seahorse
all aboard the dinghy
All aboard the dinghy!!!
our nutella crepe are always appreciated
Our Nutella crepe are always appreciated
bulgarian crew
Bulgarian crew

Reflections and Farewell

As we returned to Khao Lak, we reminisced about the incredible week of diving. From the vibrant reefs of Koh Haa to the biodiversity of Richelieu Rock, every dive brought something extraordinary. A heartfelt thank-you to our Bulgarian guests, team Go Live for their enthusiasm and camaraderie—it was a joy to share this journey with you.
Until next time, happy bubbles! 🌊🐠
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Trip report North to South: An Unforgettable Andaman Diving Safari from 22nd to 29th of November 2024

9/12/2024

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Embark on an extraordinary underwater adventure...

With the MV Smiling Seahorse, where divers explored Thailand’s most breathtaking marine parks during a week-long safari. From the vibrant reefs of Surin and Similan National Parks to the unspoiled beauty of Koh Lanta and Tarutao, this journey was a celebration of marine biodiversity and camaraderie among diving enthusiasts.
​
Here’s a detailed, day-by-day recount of this unforgettable diving safari.

Day 1: Surin National Park – A Promising Start

Baby eagle ray coming towards the lense
Baby eagle ray coming towards the lense
Our expedition began at Koh Chi, the perfect setting for a relaxed check dive. Highlights included spotting a giant pufferfish, a fleeting requiem shark, and the graceful gliding of an eagle ray.
Requiem shark
Requiem shark
Giant pufferfish in surin national park
Giant pufferfish in surin national park
The excitement continued with two dives at the iconic Richelieu Rock, despite slightly hazy visibility.

The site was bustling with life: trevallies, rainbow runners, and longnose emperors darted among schools of fusiliers.

​A ghost pipefish and playful clusters of tomato anemone fish thrilled the group, making this a fantastic start to the trip.
Blueline snappers
Blueline snappers
Tomato anemone fish
Tomato anemone fish
Vibrant reef covered in fish such as trevali and emperors at richelieu rock
Vibrant reef covered in fish such as trevali and emperors at richelieu rock
We concluded the day with a magical night dive at Torinla West, exploring granite boulders that housed a variety of nocturnal critters, including shrimps and crabs.
Pretty shrimp in north andaman thailand
Pretty shrimp in north andaman thailand
Crabs and shrimps come out on night dives
Crabs and shrimps come out on night dives

Day 2: Similan National Park – Visibility and Vibrance

The crystal-clear waters of the Koh Tachai Plateau offered breathtaking encounters, from a swirling barracuda tornado to curious tunas and a playful octopus.
Hard coral the perfect coral nursery in thai waters
Hard coral the perfect coral nursery
Morish idol schooling in thai dive site
Morish idol schooling on pretty reef
Lobster house in koh tachai north similan island
Lobster house in koh tachai north similan island
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Diving with the day octopus □ in thailand
At Koh Bon Pinnacle, we marveled at batfish, barracudas, and vibrant peacock mantis shrimps. A night dive at Koh Bon Bay revealed hidden treasures like Maldivian sponge snails and lobsters, adding to the day’s thrill.
Maldives sponge snail in Similan islands
Maldives sponge snail in Similan islands
A lonely barracuda
A lonely barracuda

Day 3: Similan National Park – Iconic Dive Sites

Three Trees dazzled with its majestic Napoleon wrasse, garden eels, and another spectacular barracuda tornado. The white sandy bottoms and granite boulders created an enchanting underwater landscape, perfect for spotting blue-spotted rays and an octopus.
Blue-spotted rays
Blue-spotted rays
Wonderful giant seafan and pink soft corals
Wonderful giant seafan and pink soft corals
At Elephant Head Rock, divers navigated swim-throughs adorned with sea fans, encountering blue ribbon eels, a hunting giant moray eel, and a juvenile white-tip shark.
Yellow Snappers on the reef Thailand diving safari
Yellow Snappers on the reef
Giant moray get it teeth cleaned in South-Andaman Thailand Koh Lanta
Giant moray get it teeth cleaned in South-Andaman Thailand Koh Lanta
Our final dive at West of Eden revealed a thriving coral garden teeming with fusiliers, parrotfish, and an elusive blue dragon nudibranch.

Day 4: Koh Lanta National Park – Hin Muang and Hin Daeng

Hawksbill turtle in Thailand
Hawksbill turtle eating in Hin Muang

​The legendary dive sites
Hin Muang and Hin Daeng lived up to their reputations.

At Hin Muang, a hawksbill turtle and rainbow runners stole the show.

Meanwhile, Hin Daeng’s vibrant reef showcased porcelain crabs, clownfish, and swirling barracuda schools.
Boxfish are very popular amongst divers
Boxfish are very popular amongst divers
Fairy basset is such a pretty tropical reef fish
Fairy basset is such a pretty tropical reef fish
The day ended with a blackwater dive, an ethereal experience where bioluminescent plankton and mysterious deep-sea creatures emerged under the starlit sky.

Day 5: Tarutao National Park – A Seahorse Surprise

At 8-Mile Rock, divers delighted in spotting a seahorse, along with a sleeping turtle and several moray eels. The adventure continued at Koh Yang Reef, where clownfish and hermit crabs charmed the group.
Diving with Porcupine fish in Thailand
Porcupine fish in Thailand
Pretty fish on the reef
Pretty fish on the reef
Crab hanging out in pretty reef
Crab hanging out in pretty reef
Pretty reef scene with clownfish
Pretty reef scene with clownfish
Stonehenge proved unforgettable with mating cuttlefish, scorpionfish, and a baby frogfish. Another frogfish sighting at Koh Taru, along with devil scorpionfish and a rare sea urchin shrimp, wrapped up an exciting day.

Day 6: Koh Haa – Mystical Caves and Predator-Prey Drama

The drama unfolded at Hin Daeng/Muang, where divers witnessed a giant potato grouper devouring a moray eel—a rare and intense moment.
​At Koh Haa Chimney, we explored colorful swim-throughs, while Koh Haa Cathedral revealed magical caves with cleaning shrimps, fusiliers, and resting pufferfish. A sunset dive brought the day to a dazzling close.
South andaman islands
South andaman islands

Day 7: Koh Bida Nok and Shark Point – A Memorable Farewell

Our final day began at Koh Bida Nok, where blacktip reef sharks, a tiger tail seahorse, and a baby turtle made delightful appearances.
Tigertail seahorse is the most often countered in the andaman sea
Tigertail seahorse is the most often countered in the Andaman Sea
The trip ended with a drift dive at Shark Point, where divers marveled at cuttlefish, barrel sponges, and bustling marine life—a perfect grand finale.
Our beloved Captain
Our beloved Captain
The sea is ours, Captain!!!
The sea is ours, Captain!!!
Left to right: Simon, James and Julien
Left to right: Simon, James and Julien

Reflections and Farewells

This North to South Andaman safari was a journey of discovery, showcasing the incredible biodiversity of Thailand’s marine parks. From vibrant coral gardens to thrilling encounters with rare species, every dive was a testament to the beauty of the underwater world.

​Thank you to everyone who joined this adventure aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Until our next exploration, happy bubbles! 🌊
The Smiling Seahorse food buffet
Barbecue night's buffet: Yummm!!!
Dive... Eat... Sleep... AGAIN!
Dive... Eat... Sleep... repeat!
We love to see our guests happy!
We loved sharing these adventures with you all!
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    The Smiling Seahorse Diving Blog

    A blog about our diving adventures in Burma and Thailand. Diving trip reports, guest reviews, fishy stories, wildlife fun facts and much more...
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    ​The Smiling Seahorse has been running dive cruises from Ranong since 2012.
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The Smiling Seahorse ​
Responsible Manta Tourism Operator
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  • When & Where
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      • 8D Special Marine Bio with Gavin Miller - 10 Nov 2025
      • 8D Whale shark expedition - 20 March 2026 - North and South
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