​The MV Smiling Seahorse officially launched the new diving season with a second unforgettable adventure across Myanmar’s remote waters — from the mysterious limestone islands of the Mergui Archipelago to the vast, sandy plateaus of the Burma Banks.
Our second group of the season — joining us from France — gathered at the pier in Ranong with bright smiles and even brighter expectations. After completing the immigration formalities and crossing into Myanmar via Kawthung, passports were stamped, bags stowed, and spirits high as we set course into the wild blue.

​Our check dive at High Rock revealed the season’s first treasures: tigertail seahorse, pickhandle barracudas, swirling fusiliers and jacks, peacock mantis shrimps, white-eyed moray eels, Spanish mackerel, and even a curious rainbow runner. Thornback boxfish, pharaoh cuttlefish, and orange-spotted pipefish rounded off the dive — an explosion of colour to start the trip.
The following dives took us to the magical Three Islets:

• Dive 2 – “The Square & Shark Cave”:  tigertail seahorses, cuttlefish, blue dragons, Durban dancing shrimps, porcelain crabs (one of them carrying eggs!) , zebra and banded snake eels, and playful cleaner pipefish.
• Dive 3 – “Submarine & Shark Cave”: the tunnels echoed with life — yellowtail barracudas, golden trevallies, a gliding eagle ray, tomato anemonefish, tigertail seahorse, a stonefish, a bamboo shark, and several moray eels.

Our night dive at Shark Cave & Square was pure magic — nine tigertail seahorses, including some mating! Add to that toadfish, cone snails on the move, sleeping parrotfish, soldierfish, and crustaceans galore — a proper nocturnal parade.
That night, the Smiling Seahorse pointed her bow north toward the legendary Black Rock.

​Four dives in total, each more electric than the last. One lucky group spotted a manta ray early in the day, while others drifted among eagle rays, cobias, tunas, yellowtail barracudas, and dense schools of bigeye trevallies.
Amid the action, we admired white devil scorpionfish, octopus, peacock mantis shrimps, lionfish, and patches of vibrant soft corals home to butterflyfish and wrasses.
A sunset dive sealed the day — schools of sergeant fish guarding their eggs, bannerfish, snappers, and reef octopus emerging as the light faded.

​North Twin Pinnacle: barracudas, fusiliers, red snappers, and a few dogtooth tunas gliding in the blue.
At North Twin Reef, we crossed paths with broadclub cuttlefish, banded sea snakes, giant morays, mantis shrimps, and vibrant corals where angelfish, triggerfish, and surgeonfish danced in the current.
At South Twin Reef, two dives revealed Maldivian sponge snails, marbled groupers, schools of surgeonfish, pyjama surgeonfish, juvenile sweetlips, a fleeting whitetip reef shark, blue ribbon eels, and another elegant wahoo cruising by.
As the sun dipped, we turned our compass westward toward the open ocean — and the mythical Burma Banks.

​The Roe Bank welcomed us with two nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a graceful mangrove whipray, and dogtooth tunas patrolling the edges.
At Coral Bank, the spectacle continued: more nurse sharks, a marble ray, honeycomb moray eels, and a bustling coral city alive with emperor and royal angelfish, neon fusiliers, powder-blue sergeants, velvet surgeonfish, clown triggerfish, trevallies, and Napoleon wrasses.
Even the safety stops were lively — schools of jacks and snappers swirling in golden light.

​The two morning dives at Rainbow Bank were a perfect blend of serenity and adrenaline. Marble rays, nurse sharks snoozing under bommies, clouds of fusiliers, surgeonfish, tunas, great barracudas, royal angelfish, giant sweetlips, potato groupers, and grey reef sharks filled the blue.
A third dive at Silvertip Bank offered encounters with Napoleon wrasses, grey reef sharks, and another nurse shark gliding past gracefully.
One group opted for a sunset dive among vibrant reef life — bannerfish, butterflyfish, wrasses, and anthias painting the scene — while the rest of the guests embarked on a surreal blackwater dive, drifting with larval anemonefish, eel larvae, stargazers, pyrosomes, siphonophores, venus girdles, and glowing comb jellies under the stars.

​At Sea Fan Forest, enormous gorgonians lined the reef like underwater cathedrals. Neon fusiliers, trevallies, glassfish, pickhandle barracudas, and curious mantis shrimps mingled with stonefish, anemone crabs, and longnose hawkfish.
At Western Rocky, the current brought white-tongue trevallies, yellowfin barracudas, and marble shrimps out to play.
Our night dive at Western Rocky was a treasure hunt — sleeping trevallies, massive sponge crabs, feather star squat lobsters, giant morays, tiny shrimps on whip coral, coral cowries, phenacovolva snails, and even a sea butterfly fluttering through the torchlight.

We enjoyed a delicious barbecue dinner that night, featuring spare ribs, hand-cut French fries, tomates à la provençale, a fresh salad assortment, grilled chicken wings and sausages, along with potatoes en robe des champs served with a rich garlic butter.

​Back at Sea Fan Forest, we spotted lionfish, devil scorpionfish, a fimbriated moray sharing its crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
Our final dives at Eagle Rock, The Cave, and The Islets revealed pickhandle barracudas, longnose emperors, dogtooth tunas, boxfish, porcupinefish, nudibranchs like Chromodoris reticulata and Glossodoris cincta, harlequin shrimps, leopard morays, rainbow runners, and Napoleon wrasses.

​Our final dive brought a fitting finale: schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, a majestic great barracuda, banded sea snake, and one last fimbriated moray waving us goodbye.
With our tanks empty but our hearts full, we headed back to Kawthaung for our traditional Burmese beers, immigration clearance, and the sail back to Ranong.
The second expedition of the season was everything we’d hoped for — thrilling dives, wonderful guests, and the timeless magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks. A big thank you to our wonderful guests for illustrating this blogpost with their photos!
Until next time — see you underwater aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse!

​The MV Smiling Seahorse kicked off the new diving season with a spectacular journey through the remote waters of Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago and the legendary Burma Banks. Departing from Ranong, our first group of adventurers — joining us from France, Switzerland, Belgium, Ireland, the US, and the UK — gathered with excitement at the pier.
After check-in, we completed the usual immigration formalities in Ranong before crossing the border to Kawthung, Myanmar. With passports stamped and smiles all around, we set course toward the mysterious Mergui Archipelago — a place of dramatic limestone and granit boulder islands, lush jungle cliffs, and some of the most vibrant underwater life in the Andaman Sea.

​Our check dive at High Rock was the perfect start, offering calm conditions and an easy descent into a thriving coral reef. Among the swaying soft corals, we spotted oriental sweetlips, butterflyfish, blue damsels, and curious bannerfish darting between the rocks — a beautiful welcome back to Burmese waters.
Our second dive took us to Three Islets (Square), alive with action! Schools of fusiliers and white tongue jacks swirled above the reef, while a tigertail seahorse and an orange-spotted pipefish delighted our macro enthusiasts. Blue-lined snappers, Moorish idols, and a few playful anemonefish added even more colour to the scene.
Dive three at Three Islets (Shark Cave) brought strong surges, so we explored around the island instead of entering the cave. The current carried schools of pickhandle barracudas past walls of soft corals where tomato anemonefish guarded their homes.
For the night dive, we returned to Shark Cave. Under torchlight, we found barracudas cruising the dark, parrotfish sleeping soundly in their mucus bubbles, a seal-face pufferfish tucked into a crack, and a curious pharaoh cuttlefish. We also encountered soldierfish, cardinalfish, and a few colourful wrasses hunting under the beams of our lights.
That night, we set sail toward the famous Black Rock.

​At sunrise, we descended on Black Rock’s north side, greeted by schools of bigeye jacks, barracudas, lionfish, and snapper clouds drifting in the blue.
Our second dive on the south side was pure magic — mantas! Not one, but four graceful oceanic manta rays soared through the current, looping and gliding as dogtooth tunas patrolled below.
The third and fourth dives kept the action going, with dense schools of jacks, fusiliers, and surgeonfish swirling through the water column. A leopard moray eel peeked from a crevice during the sunset dive, a perfect finale to a spectacular day.

​North Twin Pinnacle — the current-fed site teeming with barracudas, fusiliers, and red snappers. We admired tiger  egg cowries, moray eels, and a few curious dogtooth tunas cruising by.
At North Twin Reef, we met a banded sea snake weaving through coral bommies, an octopus changing colours before our eyes, and a squad of batfish gliding gracefully in the blue. Mantis shrimps and lobsters completed the day’s macro highlights.
After our final dive, the Smiling Seahorse set course westward for the Burma Banks — a legendary chain of submerged plateaus rising from the depths of the Andaman Sea, located about 180 km offshore. These vast, remote reefs are known for their big pelagic life and pristine coral formations.

​Our first dives at Roe Bank revealed a world of giants — several nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a mangrove whipray, and schooling black surgeonfish weaving around coral heads. Dogtooth tunas patrolled the outer slopes, keeping smaller reef fish in constant motion.
At Rainbow Bank, the spectacle continued — nurse sharks again, a stunning marble ray, three honeycomb moray eels, and a vibrant reef alive with emperor angelfish, surgeonfish, batfish, and butterflyfish. A Maldives sponge snail was spotted nestled among the corals — a treat for our keen-eyed photographers.

​The morning dives at Coral Bank lived up to its name — hard corals in excellent condition, surrounded by nurse sharks, whitetip reef sharks, and a flurry of wrasses, triggerfish, and parrotfish.
At Silvertip Banks, the energy was palpable. Grey reef sharks patrolled the plateau, nurse sharks lounged near coral heads, and a swimming zebra shark passed by trough clouds of anthias, surgeonfish, and bannerfish shimmered in the current.

​Back among the islands, we explored Sea Fan Forest, where enormous gorgonian fans hosted ghost pipefish and schools of fusiliers and trevallies.
At Western Rocky Eagle Rock, large schools of white tongue trevallies and yellowfin barracudas filled the blue, while marble shrimps hid in the cracks.
Our sunset dive in Western Rocky Cave brought us face to face with two Glossodoris nudibranch protecting its eggs, curious cuttlefish, and colourful reef fish preparing for nightfall.

​We returned to Sea Fan Forest in the morning, spotting lionfish, devil scorpionfish, and a stunning fimbriated moray eel sharing a crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
At Western Rocky Cave, a beautiful Chromodoris nudibranch added a pop of colour, while the final dives at Eagle Rock delivered dramatic cuttlefish mating and fighting scenes, plus a rare Pikachu nudibranch — the perfect finale for our photographers!

Our last dive at Dendro’s Peak brought one more burst of colour — schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, and even a curious yellow boxfish to send us off.
With the dives complete, we headed back toward Kawthung for our traditional Burmese beers and final immigration clearance before returning to Ranong. The first trip of the season set the tone perfectly — thrilling dives, great company, and the magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks welcoming us back once again.
See you underwater on our next adventure with MV Smiling Seahorse!

​Our journey began in Ranong, where our international guests—this time hailing from France, Austria, and the Philippines—stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, their eyes alight with excitement. After clearing Thai immigration, we crossed the border into Kawthoung, Myanmar, where the rhythmic stamping of passports signaled the official start of our voyage into one of the last untouched marine frontiers: the breathtaking Mergui Archipelago. It was a pleasure welcoming back some good friends and creating new friendships this week.

The ocean greeted us gently at High Rock, our check dive site, where the clear waters hinted at the wonders lying beneath the surface. Silver ribbons of yellowtail barracudas spiraled gracefully around us, mingling with yellowback fusiliers weaving effortlessly through the current. A shy moray eel peeked out from its crevice, while a solitary thornback boxfish hovered calmly nearby. Hidden among the branches of a gorgonian fan, a tiger tail seahorse played a game of underwater hide-and-seek. Vibrant nudibranchs—tiny explosions of color—adorned the reef like living confetti, as schools of butterflyfish flitted past, as curious about us as we were about them.

At Three Islets, the magic only deepened. Shark Cave pulsed with life: a proud adult yellow tiger tail seahorse clung steadfastly to a coral branch, while banded stick pipefish slithered gracefully through the rubble below. Along the rocky surfaces, Chromodoris and Flabellina nudibranchs performed their delicate, colorful dance. Above, fusiliers—blue-lined, yellow-lined, and every shade in between—formed a shimmering curtain that rippled across the reef. A sleek wahoo darted through the school like a silver arrow, while angelfish and parrotfish painted the scene with bold strokes of tropical color.

At Square, the underwater action showed no sign of slowing. Yellowstripe trevallies and longnose emperors darted through shimmering clouds of glassfish, while brassy and golden trevallies cruised along the reef’s edge like vigilant sentinels. Amid the commotion, tiger tail seahorses clung calmly to coral branches, unbothered by the lively currents. Butterflyfish and wrasses wove through the midwater, adding intricate layers to the reef’s silent symphony.

At Submarine, gentle currents allowed us to drift effortlessly alongside schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and golden dash fusiliers. A marble ray glided like a shadow over the sandy bottom, barely disturbing the drowsy goatfish resting below. Nearby, damselfish fiercely guarded their nests, while a curious trumpetfish trailed us, blending amusingly with our dive gear.

After a surface interval filled with laughter and fresh fruit, we stepped ashore at the quaint village of Khun Pi Lar. Its white-sand beach and serene Buddha temple offered a peaceful contrast to the vibrant underwater world.

As night fell, we returned to Shark Cave, now transformed into a nocturnal wonderland. Sweetlips slumbered beneath ledges, decorator crabs scuttled by in bizarre camouflage, and a ghost pipefish twirled in our torchlight. A Chromodoris geminus glowed like a living jewel, illuminating the darkness with its fluorescent brilliance.

We began the next day with Roe Bank, where nurse sharks rested languidly on the sandy bottom, surrounded by shimmering schools of silver sweetlips. Nearby, a marlin breached near the boat—an electrifying moment of pure ocean magic. The fish schools were immense: scissortail fusiliers, yellowback fusiliers, and black-and-white snappers surged like living tides. Giant sweetlips and redfin butterflyfish hovered near coral heads, accompanied by inquisitive triggerfish and a vibrant assortment of wrasses.

At Rainbow Bank, our third dive brought us face-to-face with a swirling vortex of bigeye trevallies—a mesmerizing underwater tornado. Nurse sharks cruised by silently, while a mangrove whipray materialized from the gloom like a gliding UFO. Amid the bustle of sweetlips and giant snappers, we spotted elegant pairs of bannerfish fluttering gracefully, and clouds of anthias painted the coral outcrops in vivid orange hues.

Our sunset dive was nothing short of exhilarating. One group encountered a bold and curious bull shark, while nurse sharks hovered in the twilight shadows. Honeycomb moray eels slithered between coral heads, and territorial triggerfish patrolled the sandy slopes, fiercely guarding their nests. Pufferfish drifted by slowly, like whimsical balloons suspended in the deep.

Meanwhile, others descended into the inky blackness for a blackwater dive—a surreal journey into the unknown. From the depths rose tiny post-larval creatures: flounders, squid, even a sea elephant, their translucent forms glowing under our lights like alien visitors in a dreamlike ballet from the abyss.

The next morning, Roe Bank welcomed us once more. It was so good, it was worth coming back! Dogtooth tuna sliced through vast shoals of fusiliers, their speed a blur against the swirling backdrop. Marble rays lay half-buried in the sand, only to lift off with a graceful flap, vanishing into the blue. We wound our way around boulders teeming with surgeonfish, while massive potato groupers watched from the shadows, still and imposing.

At Coral Bank, the excitement continued. Nurse sharks cruised alongside us, and another bull shark made a brief but thrilling appearance. Towering schools of yellow dot fusiliers and surgeonfish filled the water column, while rainbow runners shot through them like silver missiles. Below, groupers, triggerfish, and curious blennies darted among the coral rubble, each corner revealing new life.

Silvertip Bank brought our adventure to a spectacular finale. Nurse sharks patrolled in lazy circles, marble rays soared effortlessly overhead, and a majestic Napoleon wrasse glided past with quiet authority. Curtains of fusiliers shimmered like underwater rainbows, momentarily parting to reveal damselfish, groupers, and sergeant majors weaving through the colorful chaos.

We returned to Seafan Forest under crystal-clear conditions, the visibility offering a perfect window into the reef’s vibrant life. Fusiliers flowed like living rivers across the coral landscape, pursued by sleek great barracudas and darting rainbow runners. A pharaoh cuttlefish shimmered with ever-changing colors as it glided by, while a stonefish lay perfectly still, masterfully disguised among the reef. A proud tiger tail seahorse clung delicately to a sea fan, and nearby, a devil scorpionfish nestled between sponge and coral, its spiny silhouette barely detectable.

The adventure continued at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky Cave. Schools of batfish drifted gracefully overhead, five-line snappers pulsed across the reef in synchronized bursts, and twinstripe fusiliers streamed past like underwater arrows.
Chromodoris nudibranchs were abundant, their vibrant bodies accompanied by delicate, ribbon-like spirals of freshly laid eggs. Sponge snails peeked from their porous homes, while giant moray eels and fimbriated eels slinked through the crevices. A bright red frogfish, bold and still, posed patiently for photos—one nestled beneath the arch, the other tucked against the rocky wall like a secret waiting to be discovered.

We returned once more to Seafan Forest, and the magic continued. Nudibranchs spiraled their ribbon-like eggs onto the reef, stonefish vanished into their surroundings with expert camouflage, and schools of yellowback fusiliers pulsed rhythmically over coral heads like golden currents. Back at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky, we were delighted to find our familiar pair of giant frogfish—still motionless, still mesmerizing—surrounded by a kaleidoscope of reef life. Damselfish fiercely guarded their patches of eggs, while curious puffers hovered nearby, inspecting our bubbles with wide-eyed fascination.

Our final dive brought us to Dendro’s Pinnacle—and what a farewell it was. Visibility stretched endlessly as we drifted through clouds of five-line snappers and golden trevally. Yellowtail barracudas shimmered like blades in the distance.
​We were treated to the sight of not one, but two dazzling Chromodoris species--annulata and reticulata—while a graceful orange-spotted pipefish waved a quiet goodbye from the coral.

April greeted us with calm seas, radiant skies, and a boat brimming with international energy as divers from Belgium, France, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Italy stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Together, we set off on an unforgettable journey through the stunning Mergui Archipelago and the remote Burma Banks during our highly anticipated Manta Ray Expedition. Promising close encounters with ocean giants and elusive marine wonders, this trip didn’t just meet expectations—it exceeded them.

What made this expedition truly exceptional was the presence of Scarlett Taylor, a marine biologist from Canada with a Master’s degree in Biology from Dalhousie University. Scarlett brought a wealth of knowledge and infectious enthusiasm, sharing captivating insights into manta ray behavior, shark ecology, and the importance of protecting critical marine habitats. Drawing from her experience with the Manta Trust and her current work with Global Reef in Thailand, she hosted daily talks that deepened our understanding and appreciation of the incredible creatures we encountered beneath the waves.

Once we cleared immigration in Kawthoung, we set a course northwest into Burmese waters, ready to explore the untamed heart of the Andaman Sea.

Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the adventure ahead. A delicate Tiger Tail Seahorse nestled gracefully among the corals stole the show, while a curious Cowfish drifted by like a miniature UFO. We cruised alongside a shimmering school of Pickhandle Barracudas, silver scales catching the sunlight, as Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef edges with quiet authority. In the cracks and coral bommies, Butterflyfish flitted about while bold little Damselfish held their ground, helping us ease back into the rhythm of the deep.
​
Next, we headed to Ba Wei, where a striking black Ribbon Eel waved like a ribbon of ink from its burrow, and a pair of elegant Jann’s Pipefish twirled delicately among soft coral tendrils. At the cleaning stations, Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasses hovered with purpose, ready for business, while vibrant Angelfish and shimmering Anthias painted the reef in brilliant hues.

We capped off the day at South Twin, where a lively current brought in the big fish. Bluefin and Giant Trevallies swept past with power, joined by the lightning-fast Rainbow Runners. Yet even amid the rush, we paused to admire the more subtle beauty—Moorish Idols and Bannerfish swaying gracefully in the swell. As night fell, we slipped beneath the surface once more for a mysterious dive in South Twin Bay. There, Parrotfish dozed inside their protective mucous cocoons, and stealthy Lionfish prowled through rocky crevices, adding a touch of nighttime drama to an already magical day.

We dedicated a full day to exploring the wonders of the Shark Cave area, diving between Shark Cave, Square Rock, and Submarine. Each site delivered in spades. A shy Bamboo Shark peeked from beneath a rocky ledge, while Tiger Tail Seahorses clung delicately to sea fans swaying in the shallows. Five Marble Rays glided past in graceful formation, skimming over coral gardens teeming with life—Tomato Clownfish darting through anemones, curious Cuttlefish drifting by, and schools of Batfish swirling like a slow-motion ballet overhead.

The macro magic was just as mesmerizing. Electric-hued Chromodoris nudibranchs lit up the reef, cryptic Decorator Crabs disguised themselves among the rubble, and alien-like Xeno Crabs gripped tightly to whip corals, looking like creatures from another planet. Meanwhile, Gold Spot Trevallies zipped through the shallows in gleaming flashes, as the reef bustled with a kaleidoscope of Wrasses, Groupers, and Triggerfish going about their vibrant, busy lives.

Black Rock never fails to impress—and today, it truly outdid itself. Across four exhilarating dives, we were treated to four manta ray sightings, including two unforgettable close encounters with majestic oceanic mantas. One glided directly overhead, lingering in the dappled sunlight as our bubbles rose to meet it—an awe-inspiring moment that left the entire group breathless with wonder.

Below and around us, schools of Big Eye Trevallies moved like rolling silver waves, creating a mesmerizing backdrop to the manta magic. In the reef’s quieter corners, diligent Harlequin Shrimps nibbled away at sea stars, their intricate patterns standing out against the rocky crevices. A ghostly White Devil Scorpionfish, nearly indistinguishable from the stone it rested on, reminded us just how much goes unnoticed until you truly look.

The entire reef pulsed with energy—Snappers darted in tight formation, Surgeonfish weaved through the chaos, and Sweetlips hovered with their signature pout. Black Rock delivered a sensory feast, once again proving why it’s one of the crown jewels of the Andaman Sea.

At North Twin Pinnacle, the blue came alive with motion and grace. Four Eagle Rays soared past like underwater kites, effortlessly gliding through the open water. All around us, Fusiliers streamed in dazzling bursts of blue and yellow, like living confetti swirling on the current. Below, the reef buzzed with life—Snappers and regal Emperor Angelfish filled the coral-scape, occasionally parting to make way for larger visitors, including a sleek Tuna cruising by in the distance during our third dive at North Twin Reef.

The Burma Banks unfolded before us like a dreamscape of the deep—vast, remote, and teeming with life. Over eight thrilling dives, we shared encounters that will be etched in memory for years to come. In the golden afternoon light, three Bull Sharks patrolled a ridge with quiet dominance, while a passing Tiger Shark sent a ripple of adrenaline through the group, hearts pounding in unison.

Beneath coral overhangs, Nurse Sharks lay in calm repose, while a juvenile Grey Reef Shark darted with youthful agility through a swirling school of Trevally. A graceful Turtle glided by, utterly unbothered by our presence, as if we were just another current in its path. Meanwhile, enormous Marble Rays stirred the sandy bottom with their powerful wings, sending Gobies and Sand perch scattering like leaves in the wind.

The Burma Banks delivered wild beauty in every direction—a raw and humbling reminder of the ocean’s power, mystery, and grace.

As we made our way back toward the Western Rocky area, Seafan Forest welcomed us with one last breathtaking surprise—a graceful Hammerhead Shark gliding past in a silent, unforgettable flyby (unfortunately not captured by any camera!).

Tucked among the swaying sea fans, another perfectly camouflaged Tigertail Seahorse revealed itself, while Stonefish lurked in plain sight, waiting to be discovered. In the shallows, Cuttlefish shimmered with vibrant color displays, their bodies flashing like living neon signs. Our macro luck held steady with one final encounter—a charming pair of Harlequin Shrimps, closing the loop on a week of small, spectacular finds.

At The Cave and Eagle Rock, the weird and wonderful made their curtain call. A hulking Giant Frogfish rested motionless in the open, its shape barely distinguishable from the coral around it. A cleverly hidden Elbow Crab and a regal Slipper Lobster reminded us once more that in the underwater world, magic hides in the details—and the surprises truly never stop.

As we sailed back toward Thailand, the sun dipped below the horizon, closing the chapter on a week filled with manta ballets, thrilling shark encounters, and kaleidoscopic coral gardens. With Scarlett’s expert insights adding depth to every dive, and a spirited crew of divers from around the world sharing the experience, this Manta Ray Expedition became more than a trip—it became a story we’ll be telling for years.

Already dreaming of the next one? So are we...

​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier after completing Thai immigration procedures, our international group of divers from Holland, the UK, the USA, Canada, Germany, and Colombia set sail for another exhilarating expedition aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. After formalities in Kawthung, Burma, we cruised northwest toward the remote and pristine waters of the Mergui Archipelago, anticipating days filled with thrilling dives before reaching the legendary Burma Banks.

​The Burma Banks is an isolated offshore reef system consisting of vast submerged plateaus and seamounts rising abruptly from the deep ocean floor. Unlike the nearshore reefs of the Mergui Archipelago, which are fringed with islands, the Burma Banks lie far out in the Andaman Sea, approximately 180 km west of the Burmese coast. Known for their strong currents, these deep reefs attract large pelagic species and host expansive coral gardens teeming with marine life. Our divers were in for an unforgettable adventure.

​Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the trip, with schools of yellowtail barracuda weaving through the water, accompanied by shimmering yellowback fusiliers. Moray eels peeked out from crevices, while nudibranch enthusiasts delighted in spotting various species, including the striking thornback boxfish, also known as cowfish.

​The second dive at Dragon Island had a mild current, allowing for an exciting drift dive. Baby yellowback fusiliers and juvenile barracudas formed mesmerizing clouds around the reef, while peacock mantis shrimps scuttled along the seabed. The reef was bursting with life—longfin batfish hovered in the currents, while clown triggerfish and regal angelfish added splashes of color to the scene.

​At Bawei, also called Rainbow Rock, the vibrant coral formations were alive with activity. Our night dive here revealed a fascinating array of nocturnal creatures, including tiny pygmy squid, Glossodoris nudibranchs, and agile fibriated moray eels. A massive stonefish lay camouflaged on the reef, while a devil scorpionfish lurked nearby. A lucky few spotted both tiny and medium needle cuttlefish, along with an impressive basket star shrimp and a striking blue dragon nudibranch.

​Our first dive at Three Islets, known as Square, provided exceptional visibility, revealing tigertail seahorses clinging to sea fans and a bustling school of yellowstripe trevally. Marble rays cruised gracefully along the seabed, while orange-spotted pipefish hid among soft corals. Photographers captured exquisite close-ups of flabellina exoptata and schools of brassy and golden trevally.

​At Shark Cave, sergeant major fish were fiercely defending their eggs from opportunistic wrasses. Banded stick pipefish and vibrant nudibranchs decorated the reef, while baby blacktip fusiliers darted through the water in synchronized movements.
Submarine, our third dive site, was alive with energy. Schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and blue-and-gold fusiliers filled the water column. A bamboo shark rested under a rocky ledge, and a curious ornate ghost pipefish hovered nearby.
​
In the late afternoon, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque island with white sandy beaches and a serene Buddha temple. The night dive here did not disappoint—giant sweetlips hovered near the reef, ghost pipefish floated elegantly, and Chromodoris geminus nudibranchs illuminated the night.

​Our first two dives at North Twin Pinnacle featured schools of barracuda, yellow-lined fusiliers, and Risbecia pulchella nudibranchs. Partner shrimps hid among anemones, while giant moray eels watched divers curiously. A majestic eagle ray glided past, and Kuhl’s blue-spotted stingrays rested on sandy patches.

​At North Twin Reef, the late afternoon and sunset dives were calm but teeming with life. Large schools of yellowback and mainlined fusiliers dominated the scene, along with batfish and sweetlips near the coral bommies. Octopuses displayed their shape-shifting abilities, while giant coral tables formed a breathtaking underwater landscape.

​Our much-anticipated arrival at Burma Banks brought exciting encounters. At Row Bank, nurse sharks glided effortlessly through the currents, while a striking pair of Napoleon wrasses—male and female—patrolled the reef. Schools of silver sweetlips, black-and-white snappers, and scisortail fusiliers surrounded us. The highlight of the day? A marlin leaping at the surface near the boat!
Rainbow Bank’s third dive delivered an incredible tornado of bigeye trevally, complemented by massive marble rays and another nurse shark sighting. The sunset dive was equally thrilling, featuring honeycomb moray eels and giant sweetlips mingling with snappers.
Some divers opted for a blackwater dive instead, exploring the mysterious depths beyond the reef, discovering translucent larval fish, delicate jelly creatures, and fascinating drifters such as sea elephants, sea angels, tongue fish, isopods, and purpleback squid drifting in the open ocean."

​Franck was lucky to photograph a stunning Leopard Blenny (Exallias brevis), a photogenic yet elusive fish. With its freckled pattern and a size reaching up to 15 cm, this little beauty blends seamlessly into its surroundings, making it a challenging but rewarding subject for underwater photographers. Typically found hiding among the branches of Acropora, Pocillopora, and Porites corals, the Leopard Blenny is known for its skittish nature, darting away at the slightest disturbance. Capturing it on camera required patience, but the results were well worth the effort!"

The first two dives at Coral Bank featured an abundance of nurse sharks, a majestic mangrove whipray, and dense schools of fusiliers, surgeonfish, and potato groupers. A longnose emperor made a dramatic appearance, hunting an octopus in the sand.

​At Silvertip Bank, the highlight was a spectacular school of fusiliers swirling around the reef, alongside marble rays and a visiting Napoleon wrasse. We also encountered triggerfish, nurse sharks, damsels, and groupers hiding within coral crevices.

​Seafan Forest offered fantastic visibility, revealing swarms of baby lined fusiliers and mating Pharaoh cuttlefish. Divers were thrilled to spot stonefish and tigertail seahorses among the sea fans.
At Eagle Rock, we encountered yellowtail barracuda, a mesmerizing school of batfish, and the always-popular Pikachu nudibranch. Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef, and fimbriated moray eels peeked from their hiding spots.
Our final dive at Western Rocky Cave introduced us to pufferfish, twinstripe fusiliers, and damsels tending to their eggs—an intimate moment of underwater life.

​Our last dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle blessed us with incredible visibility. Schools of five-line snappers, gold giant trevally, and yellowtail barracuda surrounded the site. Stonefish lurked motionless, while vibrant nudibranchs—Chromodoris annulata and Chromodoris reticulata—crawled along the reef. The finale was a tiny orange-spotted pipefish, a true delight for macro enthusiasts.

​With our tanks emptied and our hearts full, we bid farewell to the Burma Banks and the Mergui Archipelago, already dreaming of our next adventure.

​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier, our journey to the Burma Banks began with the usual immigration formalities in Thailand before heading to Kawthung, Burma. Once the official paperwork was complete, we set course for the remote and breathtaking Mergui Archipelago and the Burma Banks. With guests from Thailand, Burma, France, Denmark, Switzerland, the USA, Italy, Panama, and Belgium, we embarked on another unforgettable adventure aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, eager to uncover the wonders of this legendary dive destination.

The Burma Banks is an isolated offshore reef system consisting of vast submerged plateaus and seamounts that rise abruptly from the deep ocean floor. Unlike the nearshore reefs of the Mergui Archipelago, which are fringed with islands, the Burma Banks lie far out in the Andaman Sea, approximately 180 km west of the Burmese coast. The area is renowned for its thrilling drift dives, expansive sandy plateaus, and vibrant coral outcrops, making it one of the most exhilarating dive sites in the region.

During our first dive on this fantastic forest of Seafans, we discovered a massive ghost net tangled in the coral. Recognizing the threat it posed to marine life, our dedicated team of dive pros sprang into action. Over the next hour, they carefully detached the net from the reef, ensuring minimal impact on the fragile corals.

By removing this ghost net, we saved countless marine creatures from a senseless death. Ghost nets continue to trap and kill marine life—fish, crabs, morays, and even sharks—that will never be eaten or used, making them a tragic waste. Beyond their impact on marine life, discarded fishing gear is one of the largest sources of plastic pollution in our oceans and contributes to coral reef destruction. This effort was a small but important step in protecting this beautiful dive site and preserving the underwater ecosystem for future divers.

We were lucky to have onboard seven awesome friends - Julien, Camille, Sofi, Tom, Thanda, Tim and Rich - who are also skilled dive professionals, including Thanda Ko Gyi, the founder of Myanmar's first ocean conservation organization, Myanmar Ocean Project and Tim & Rich from Thai Ocean Academy. With their expertise and manpower, we were able to make a real impact, ensuring that this stunning dive site remains a haven for marine life.
A big thank you to you all!!!

As the clock ticked toward 2025, we set sail on the MV Smiling Seahorse, departing from Ranong with an international crew of divers from Australia, the USA, France, and Spain. The journey began with a unique experience—crossing the Thai-Burmese border by sea. After clearing immigration at Kawthaung, we ventured into the enchanting Mergui Archipelago to kick off our New Year’s adventure.

Our first dive at High Rock set a remarkable tone for the week ahead. The reef teemed with life, showcasing vibrant cowfish, porcupine puffers, and schools of pickhandle barracuda gliding gracefully through the crystal-clear waters. Among the nooks and crannies, we encountered white-eye moray eels, pipefish, cuttlefish, and the notoriously elusive honeycomb moray. Scorpionfish expertly camouflaged themselves against the coral backdrop, keeping us constantly alert and engaged.

Dive two took us to Shark Cave at 3 Islets, where the diversity and abundance of marine life seemed to double. A delicate tiger tail seahorse swayed gently in the current, while peacock mantis shrimp scurried energetically across the sandy bottom. Schools of fusiliers, jacks, and snappers filled the water with vibrant bursts of color, and another stunning formation of pickhandle barracuda swirled around us in a mesmerizing ballet.

For our third dive at Submarine, or Square Rock, we were treated to thrilling highlights: a school of giant trevally and golden trevally shimmering like molten gold in the deep blue background. Nudibranch enthusiasts rejoiced at the sighting of exquisite purple and orange Flabellina and orange pipefish on the reef, while the large schools of yellow fusiliers, jacks, and snappers commanded attention above our heads. We were even fortunate to witness a "barracuda tornado," a breathtaking spectacle of swirling silver and shadows.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we returned to Shark Cave for a night dive, where the nocturnal marine life came alive. Decorator crabs adorned in shades of yellow and pink roamed the seabed, and small creatures like dancing Durban shrimp and cleaning shrimp illuminated the night with their lively antics. The ethereal presence of moray eels weaving through the shadows added an intriguing touch of mystery to the dive.
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Back on board, the night turned into a festive celebration. Ringing in New Year’s Eve in the remote Mergui Archipelago was nothing short of enchanting. With no other boats in sight, we welcomed 2025 beneath a canopy of stars, toasting to exceptional visibility, thrilling dives—and the exciting prospect of more encounters with nurse sharks to come!

At North Twin Pinnacle, we began our day with two dives that can only be described as breathtaking. A shy school of jackfish momentarily graced us with their presence, while yellowtail barracuda lounged atop the boulders, watching our every move. Among the vibrant coral gardens, we encountered mesmerizing tigertail seahorses, a pair of amorous octopuses engaged in a playful courtship display, and a distinctive seal-face pufferfish. The scene was further enhanced by the vivid presence of surgeonfish, batfish, and blue-and-yellow boxfish, creating a truly enchanting tableau.
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Our third and fourth dives at North Twin Reef Pinnacle unveiled a kaleidoscope of marine life. Blue-dash, blue-and-gold, and black-tipped fusiliers darted gracefully around pink basslets and longnose hawkfish nestled among the soft coral. We were also delighted by the vibrant sweetlips, butterflyfish, and angelfish, along with the surprising appearance of four giant blue-spotted pufferfish. A dogtooth tuna glided past us, serving as a reminder of the ocean's vast and mysterious depths.

The overnight journey took us to the Burma Banks, where Row Bank awaited. At an average depth of 25 meters, we were greeted by vibrant schools of bignose unicornfish and humpback unicornfish, as well as the majestic presence of nurse sharks—both resting under the bommies and curiously swimming among us. A massive school of jacks, seemingly engaged in a mating ritual, circled in pairs of dark and light individuals. Honeycomb moray eels peeked out from their hiding spots, while chromodoris nudibranchs delighted macro enthusiasts. The excitement was further heightened by the presence of giant sweetlips, white-tip reef sharks, and titan triggerfish.

During dives three and four at Rainbow Bank, we were accompanied by dolphins along the way, setting the stage for unforgettable underwater encounters. Nurse sharks and white-tip reef sharks patrolled the area, while jacks, trevally, and rainbow runners moved in synchronized harmony. On one dive, our group was treated to a stunning sunset that revealed bearded moray eels, giant blue-spotted pufferfish, scribbled filefish, and even more nurse sharks.
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Meanwhile, other divers opted for a blackwater dive, where the crystal-clear waters and gentle currents showcased a mesmerizing array of larval critters. Tiny flounders, shrimps, mantis shrimps, crabs, moray eels, jacks, goatfish, and sea butterflies floated gracefully in the current, creating a surreal underwater spectacle.

Returning to Row Bank for our first two dives, we were once again captivated by the mesmerizing sights of nurse sharks, honeycomb moray eels, and schools of striking black-and-white snappers. Longnose emperors and five-line snappers gracefully accompanied masked porcupinefish and giant pufferfish through the vibrant underwater landscape.

​During our third dive at Rainbow Bank, we had the exhilarating opportunity to encounter yellowfin tuna, formidable great barracuda, and even a baby grey reef shark. Our final dive at Silvertip Bank provided the ultimate thrill: an adult silvertip shark glided majestically by, accompanied by marble rays and inquisitive trevally, while baby grey reef sharks curiously approached the divers on their way to the safety stop.

The final day took us back to the Mergui Archipelago, beginning with two dives at SeaFan Forest. The pharaoh cuttlefish captivated our attention as they mated and laid eggs among the crevices. Tiger-tail seahorses, stonefish, and peacock mantis shrimp shared the stage with Chromodoris annulata nudibranchs, which were laying their eggs on the vibrant giant sea fans.
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At Western Rocky Cave, we were delighted by the sight of baby Hypselodoris nudibranchs, painted lobsters, and a school of pickhandle barracuda, offering a perfect conclusion to our underwater adventures. Our final dive at Eagle’s Nest was a spectacular display of color and life, featuring schools of jacks, juvenile bicolor parrotfish, and anemone crabs bidding us farewell in a mesmerizing underwater send-off.

Our trip concluded with a dive at the Volcano, also known as Shark Lagoon. Here, we glided through a kaleidoscope of soft corals in vibrant shades of yellow, purple, and pink, while bannerfish and flabellinas gracefully danced in the currents.

Spending the first days of the new year in the remote Burma Banks was an unparalleled experience. Being the only boat in this vast expanse of ocean felt surreal, as if the underwater world had been reserved just for us. The stunning visibility in the Banks, combined with abundant marine life and the thrill of diving with nurse sharks, made it a celebration we will never forget.

​Here’s to more adventures in 2025! The whole team wishing you all, readers, an amazing year!