​As Christmas drew near, we embarked on another unforgettable journey with MV Smiling Seahorse, this time venturing into the mesmerizing Burmese waters of the Mergui Archipelago. Guests from Germany, the UK, Australia, USA, Hong Kong, India, Switzerland, Belgium, and The Netherlands joined us, bringing an international flair to this festive trip. It was a pleasure welcoming back some old friends and making new ones this week!
​
After leaving Ranong, we crossed the border into Burma, completing the necessary formalities in Kawthaung before heading into the Mergui Archipelago. This cluster of more than 800 islands is a pristine diving paradise, offering an untouched underwater world teeming with marine life and dramatic seascapes.

We began the trip with a gentle check dive at High Rock. The underwater world welcomed us with cowfish, porcupine pufferfish, yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda swimming gracefully around us. Hidden among the sandy seabed, we spotted white-eyed moray eels and a perfectly camouflaged crocodile fish, while pipefish and cuttlefish added their elegance to the scene.

Our second dive at Dragon Island lived up to its name with vibrant marine life. We marveled at a banded sea snake gliding by, colorful chromodoris nudibranchs adorning the reef, and a dramatic moment as a cuttlefish laid eggs while its partner stood guard nearby. Schools of fusiliers, snappers, Moorish idols, and sergeant fish moved in unison, creating a captivating underwater ballet. Groupers and a curious snowflake moray eel completed the spectacle.

The third dive at Ba Wey, also known as Rainbow Rock, greeted us with a kaleidoscope of colors. Soft corals in shades of yellow, blue, pink, white, and red surrounded us. We spotted baby yellow boxfish, blue-spotted stingrays, and giant moray eels. Tiny critters such as Durban dancing shrimps and chromodoris nudibranchs added a touch of magic, while cuttlefish continued their egg-laying ritual.
​
As night fell, we returned to Ba Wey for a mesmerizing night dive. The darkness brought out fascinating marine life, including giant moray eels, fimbriated moray eels, lobsters, and crabs. The reef was alive with small nocturnal creatures, such as spiny lobsters, soldierfish, soldier crabs, and squat shrimp gliding in the moonlit water.

The day began at Square Rock, where challenging visibility didn’t dampen the excitement. We were rewarded with sightings of a tiger tail seahorse, a swirling tornado of pickhandle barracudas, and banded baby pipefish. Schools of yellowfin jackfish, various colourful nudibranchs, and a blue-spotted stingray completed this thrilling dive.

Our second dive took us to Submarine, where schools of snappers, fusiliers, and jacks swirled around us. We discovered a bamboo shark resting in a crack, boxfish exploring the reef, and the elegant egg cowrie moving gracefully among the corals.
The day’s final dive at Shark Cave delivered on its name with a barracuda tornado and an array of moray eels, including honeycomb and fimbriated varieties. We also encountered marble rays and blue-spotted stingrays sharing the same bed under a rock, while cowfish, tomato anemonefish, and cleaning partner shrimp completed the vibrant reef life.
​
We ended the day with an unforgettable Christmas BBQ night on board, surrounded by laughter and the festive spirit of our amazing guests. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of orange and pink, the aroma of sizzling delicacies filled the air.
Our international group of divers shared stories of their underwater adventures, raising glasses to the magic of the season and the camaraderie that had blossomed on this journey. With music, delicious food, and a starlit sky above, it was a night to remember—a perfect way to celebrate Christmas together in the heart of the Andaman Sea!

Sea Fan Forest Pinnacle was our destination for the first two dives of the day. The site’s giant sea fans were home to treasures such as tiger tail seahorses and mating cuttlefish. Simon’s group was lucky enough to witness a fleeting visit from a small manta ray, while schools of yellow snappers and fusiliers, along with devil scorpionfish, made these dives truly memorable.

In the afternoon, we headed to Western Rocky for a dive at Eagle’s Nest. The highlight was a rare sight of two male cuttlefish battling for a mate, releasing clouds of ink during their duel. Nearby, a Maldivian sponge snail slowly made its way across the rocks, while batfish and a poison claw sea urchin added to the underwater drama.

The day ended with a dive through Western Rocky’s spectacular cave. We entered through an archway and swam through a tunnel beneath the island, emerging to a barracuda tornado and a massive school of jacks. Inside the cave, we spotted an elbow crab and marveled at colorful soft corals lining the walls.

We woke up surrounded by the open ocean, ready to explore Corner Bank. The first two dives of the day featured pristine waters with nurse sharks resting under bommies, Napoleon wrasse, and dogtooth tuna. A rare juvenile rock mover added to the excitement.
At Rainbow Bank, the marine life was equally stunning. Silvertip sharks, nurse sharks, and a juvenile clown triggerfish stole the show. The vibrant corals and excellent visibility showcased schools of fusiliers, a great barracuda, and moray eels.
Our final dive of the day at Silvertip Bank revealed a breathtaking hard coral garden dotted with bommies. Nurse sharks swam gracefully, while giant pufferfish, surgeonfish, potato groupers, and a silvertip shark contributed to the magic.

The day began with a breathtaking dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle, where an oceanic manta ray graced us with a fleeting visit. Schools of yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda, fusiliers, and nudibranchs highlighted the vibrant marine ecosystem.

Returning to Fan Forest Pinnacle for two more dives, we discovered even more treasures, including a yellow tiger tail seahorse, stonefish, and playful peacock mantis shrimp. Schools of snappers and fusiliers, along with two schools of yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda, plus a bustling coral garden, made these dives truly special.

​Our final dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle was a fitting end to this incredible trip. Schools of fusiliers, surgeonfish, jacks, and a curious octopus brought the adventure to a close.
Afterward, we returned to Kawthaung for border formalities and enjoyed some downtime in town before heading back to Ranong. Some guests visited the temple atop the hill, while others relaxed with a few local beers at the pier’s bar.

Our first dive trip of the season to Burma was nothing short of magical! With underwater photographers and enthusiastic divers alike, we embarked on an unforgettable journey on board the MV Smiling Seahorse. This special trip welcomed two industry legends, Mike Bartick and Walter Marti, for our inaugural (but certainly not the last!) Photo & Video Clinic in Myanmar.

This trip was extra special for many reason:
- It was the first photo clinic held in Myanmar
​- We spent 3 full days at the Banks
- It was our first cruise dedicated to Blackwater diving in Myanmar
- It was our first workshop lead by Mike Bartick, a world-renowned blackwater expert and admin of worldwide Blackwater Photo Group
- Mike was fantastic, not only to get the best photos but also in identifying subjects captured throughout the trip!
- It was also great welcoming back our friend, Walter Marti, an expert Blackwater videographer, to answer all video-related questions.

Dive #1: High Rock – A Picture-Perfect BeginningWe set the tone early with a fantastic first dive at High Rock, a charming rocky island crowned by a lone tree. Beneath the surface, a wonderland awaited. Bent stick pipefish, banded sea snakes, juvenile harlequin sweet lips, and baby pufferfish were just a few of the critters that greeted us. Around the corner, a mild current brought us to swarms of big-eyed trevalli and chevron barracuda, schooling and glistening in the sunlight—a mesmerizing start!

​We made our way to our next destination — Square Rock and Shark Cave, two sites next to each other, each offering their own unique features and life.  We split up the divers and took turns at each site, offering each group time to explore the sites on their own. While diving through the swim through of Shark Cave were exhilarating to start with, the life was teeming with giant moray eels, cute varieties of boxfish and shrimps, big lobsters and peacock mantis shrimp in the rock cracks, and massive schools of pick handle barracudas and jacks. The highlight of these dives was that we all got to see adorable seahorses on the fan corals near Shark Cave —a fitting tribute to the MV Smiling Seahorse's guests!

​Our first night dive brought us more adorable seahorses and cuttlefish at Shark Cave. Stonefish were out for the night, octopus were sneaking along the sand, and big schools of flounder came out to greet us. We really enjoyed the fascinating decorator crab, who was disguising itself as a nudibranch with strategically placed coral pieces on its body. There was no fooling the divers though, and we told the crab how proud we were of its wonderful costume.

Waking up to all an ocean with no other boats or lights is a truly special moment that most people have never experienced, so waking up on the boat to a mesmerizing sunrise near the Burma Banks was an awesome sight for all.

As we prepared for the first of nine dives on the legendary Burma Banks, we were treated to a heartwarming welcome from a playful pod of dolphins! They swam alongside our boat, racing ahead as we made our way to Roe Bank. Being the first divers of the season to explore the Burma Banks, we all felt like pioneers, eager to uncover its underwater treasures.

​Descending into crystal-clear waters with 40 meters of visibility, we were met by the awe-inspiring sights of pristine sandy banks dotted with marine life. Nurse sharks glided by, some resting serenely, while giant lobsters and a magnificent marbled ray drifted over the seafloor. Our second dive took the excitement up a notch with even more sharks, swarms of surgeonfish, and vibrant schools of butterflyfish displaying every color you could imagine. It was the perfect start to our Burma Banks adventure, setting the tone for the incredible experiences that lay ahead!

We cruised south to see what Rainbow Reef had in store, and once again, luck was on our side. Nurse sharks nestled under the rocks, while reef sharks wove through vibrant corals. Overhead, schools of big tunas and pick handle barracudas glided past, while colorful reef fish adorned the seafans. Among the favorites were the charming clown triggerfish and clown pufferfish, adding splashes of color to the reef scene. As we reached our safety stop, anticipation filled the air for the first blackwater dive of the trip, as salps and tiny jellies drifted around us, a perfect preview of the night’s abundant marine life.

Returning to the boat, nature treated us to a final, magical touch—a double rainbow arched over Rainbow Reef, casting its colors over the open sea and leaving us all in awe after a fantastic day exploring the Banks.

Before our blackwater dive, our onboard expert, Mike Bartick, shared insights on some of the unique creatures we might encounter, especially siphonophores—a fascinating, stinging organism that takes on many forms. Mike explained how larval sea creatures often mimic these stingers to avoid predation, giving us a glimpse into the intricate adaptations of deep-sea life.

​With this knowledge, and Franck’s tips for a successful dive, we geared up with torches and cameras and teamed up to explore the mesmerizing world beneath us in the night’s waters.

For many divers on this trip, it was their first time experiencing the thrill of blackwater diving—an exhilarating chance to witness the amazing, tiny creatures that rise to the surface at night. Armed with cameras, they eagerly refined the special photography skills needed for capturing macro life in the dark, embracing the treasure hunt of spotting elusive creatures in the inky water. Meanwhile, the more seasoned blackwater divers among us were equally excited, curious to see if Myanmar's blackwater environment held surprises unique to this part of the world.
As we took photos and searched for life, the dive was a shared adventure, with laughter and discovery uniting us all in the excitement of exploring this new location together. While most of the creatures we encountered were delicate larval species, one of the guides, Mint, had a stroke of luck—she spotted a dolphin gliding nearby! The rest of us could only hear the dolphin’s melodic sounds, entranced as they echoed in the water around us. It was a magical night, filled with mystery and wonder. Franck got a beautiful shot of the Yellow Bellied sea snake, an amazing critter with some interesting super-powers, who lives a pelagic life away from reefs and land. Learn more about this amazing critter here: Discover the enigmactic sea snakes.

The next morning, our adventure continued with a return dive at Roe Bank. Life seemed to have flourished overnight! We were thrilled to spot even more nurse sharks, our first turtle sighting, and a rich variety of marine life, including honeycomb moray eels, massive schools of unicorn fish, a napoleon wrasse, and giant potato groupers resting under the reef ledges. One memorable encounter was with the giant trevallies that curiously approached, coming just close enough before acknowledging us as friendly visitors. Dive guide Jamie even had a heartwarming moment with a playful school of Moorish idols, who swam by with puckered lips as if to blow a kiss.
As if the morning couldn’t get any better, a playful pod of 20-30 dolphins showed up just in time for breakfast! They graced us with their presence for a full hour, playfully swimming alongside the boat before disappearing into the horizon. It was another magical moment to start to the day!

​Our excitement grew as we headed back to Rainbow Reef for two more dives that day. Descending into a vibrant school of neon fusiliers—one of nature's feeder schools—set the stage for encounters with a breathtaking number of nurse sharks, tunas, jacks, and giant trevallies. Amid this underwater bustle, a massive marble ray rested nearby, sheltered from the current. We were also treated to the endearing sight of a giant honeycomb eel at a cleaning station, getting its teeth meticulously attended to. The reef was alive with a kaleidoscope of colors from anthinae, rare nudibranchs, a mangrove whip ray, and a scribbled filefish, all adding to the spectacle of this unforgettable day at Rainbow Reef.

​Hungry divers ate delicious Thai and French meals throughout the exhilarating trip. Creamy cheesy broccoli, a Thai noodle buffet, fresh bananas fritters with ice cream, and a comforting homemade chicken soup enjoyed during a brief summer storm made for memorable first days’ meals, perfectly paired with the excitement of the trip.
That evening, our blackwater expert, Mike, hosted a review session for the photos taken on the previous night’s blackwater dive. Using his book The World of Blackwater, he helped identify the fascinating deep-water species we’d encountered and offered tips for the beginner photographers and videographers on board. From capturing stunning, reflective shots against the surface of the sea to discussing the unique symbiotic relationships among certain marine creatures, we learned how some species form alliances to appear larger or hide from predators, enhancing their safety as they feed on plankton near the surface. The photos brought the magic of the deep to life and had us all eager for the next dive.

​The following day, we slept in a bit late in preparation for our double blackwater dive that evening. We moved south to Coral Bank, the for the first dives of our final day diving on the Burma Banks. The shallower reef bank had a bit less current, so we had time to take a closer look at some smaller life on the Banks (as well as seeing our friends the nurse sharks). Colorful mushroom corals and anemones housed Clark’s anemone fish and other varieties of clownfish, massive Portida corals with colorful Christmas tree worms, leather corals, goat fish, butterfly and banner fish, and big schools of striped bonito tuna and giant trevallies. It was everything you could ask for from a site called Coral Bank!
 
During our Mediterranean style lunch of fresh mixed vegetable salad, potato salad, and falafel, we were once again greeted by a pod of dolphins. It seems they knew that we hadn’t seen them for lunch time yet and wanted to be sure we felt their love!
 
Our final day dive at Burma Banks took us to Silvertip Bank to hopefully see some silver tip reef sharks, and while it was not as exceptional as last November, we were lucky enough to spot a few! Nurse sharks were also home, as well as massive fan corals and happy colourful reef fish.
 
We had another blackwater fish identification and photography tips session with Mike, and he was incredibly impressed with the huge strides that our new blackwater photographers had made and what everyone had been finding on their dives. We also learned about how to identify so many species of marine life, including jellies, squid, snakes, larval fish, lobster, and so much more.
 
We then went on 2 blackwater dives that night! The first dive was set over a depth of 400-500m depth and the second dive at 100-200m depth, and many nautical miles apart, to compare marine life diversity above different depths.

We would find out the following day during our photo review (hint: there was a lot of excited screams of joy!!)

As we headed back to the Mergui Archipelago for our final days of diving, we said goodbye to the open ocean and arrived at a beautiful site called Seafan Forest.  The (2) dives took us all deep into the massive seafan forest along rocky ridges. Sea fans the size of most of the customers (or larger) in oranges, reds, purples, and whites boggled the senses! Scorpiofish were everywhere, as well as huge barracuda, cute cuttlefish nibbling from under a rock, nudibranches, slow moving cornet fish and trumpet fish, and even an eagle ray floating above.
 
We moved on to Eagle Rock and Western Rocky, two sites next to each other forming magnificent views for the divers onboard with chunky limestone towers and green colored boulders as islands. Our final dives of the day, with the second at sunset to hopefully see some hunting action! And boy did we see some!
 
Western Rock, also known as “The Cave” offered to our divers a spectacular topography! A careful descent along the rock wall of the larger island took divers through a magnificently lit archway into a massive underground alcove teeming with fusiliers, sea fans and nudibranches galore! Just around the corner is a massive cave filled with lobsters and tiger cowries- a true adventure dive!
 
Next to the island is the famous deep coral garden of Eagle Rock, sloping up to two limestone towers. Massive rays, big grumpy stonefish and huge schools of chevron and pick handle barracudas swarmed the site. The sunset dive was one of the most awe-inspiring and photogenic sight of the trip. The massive school of smooth tailed trevallies were in an absolute frenzy! They swarmed in a tornado that had dive guides Simon and Franck mind blown for hours after. Extending from the floor 15m deep to the surface, the school were tightly packed and voraciously swirling, following the divers around the site. Sitting inside the swirling school was an unforgettable experience and a photo opportunity most had never seen. What an amazing end to the dive day!

​Our final dive site was a completely unique and magical end to the trip. The Volcano is an island with sheer walls to dive and look for tiny nudibranches, Xeno crabs, and bearded scorpionfish, but before taking the dive, we took a scuba snorkel! A hidden alcove in the side of the island is a hole to the inside of the island, where a massive salt water nursery is tucked away inside the inner part of the island. Each group took turns to go into the nursery and float on our backs and explore the shallow reef, looking up at the peaceful teal waters and jungle surroundings only offered in these islands.
 
We packed up our camera and diving equipment and made our way back to land to stop for some Myanmar beers together in Kawthoung, and then back to Ranong for hugs and goodbyes, all looking forward to sharing our blackwater, blue water, sunset (and rainbow!) photos with each other. Until the next trip…

Days 2 and 3: Burma Banks
The extraordinary experiences at High Rock and Shark Cave led us to venture west towards the Burma Banks for the next two days. Burma Banks exceeded our expectations! We woke up to the thrilling sight of dolphins playing in the mirror-like waters, with no land in sight. The water was warm, crystal-clear, and had visibility exceeding 40 meters. As we explored the vast underwater landscape, we were captivated by giant sandy mountains adorned with vibrant coral bommies, teeming with diverse marine life.

One of the highlights was encountering serene and magnificent nurse sharks, a sight that left us in awe. We were fortunate to witness numerous nurse sharks during our dives. The waters were alive with large schools of surgeonfish, big-eyed trevallies, rainbow runners, and colorful fusiliers. It was an unforgettable experience for everyone on board.

Day 4: Western Rocky Area
We returned east towards the southern part of the Mergui Archipelago, diving around the Western Rocky area. Our first stop was the Seafan Forest, a site adorned with towering pinnacles draped in magnificent giant seafans. Here, we were treated to the sight of schools of snappers, big-eyed trevally, and fusiliers gracefully swimming among the colorful marine life. Amidst this underwater jungle of seafans, we were delighted to spot a stonefish and an orangutan crab, adding to the enchanting experience.

Our exploration then led us to Western Rocky, where we encountered two groups of cuttlefish mating and dozens of mantis shrimps! The Mergui Archipelago is a true paradise for shrimp lovers, featuring marble shrimps, tapestry shrimps, spearing mantis shrimps, Durban dancing shrimps, boxer shrimps, cleaner shrimps, and many types of crabs too. The eerie light in the cave added to its charm.

Conclusion
This trip through the Mergui Archipelago and the Burma Banks was an unforgettable journey, filled with incredible marine encounters, stunning underwater landscapes, and the charm of local culture. Each dive revealed new wonders, from the smallest shrimp to the majestic nurse sharks. We look forward to our next adventure and the many more amazing dives to come, eager to explore more of the hidden treasures beneath the sea. The memories we created and the marine life we encountered will stay with us forever, fueling our passion for the ocean and its endless mysteries.

​Day 1: was an amazing day of diving! Our check dive at High Rock and our Second at Dragon Island were both filled with wonderful underwater encounters. We were delighted to come across a big school of fusiliers, a ghost pipefish, and some stunning nudibranches. We decided to go and explore South Twin for the 3rd dive and the night dive, which turned out to be a brilliant choice. The water there was crystal clear, allowing us to marvel of a Trevally gliding through the blue, playful batfish, elusive octopus, fascinating mantis shrimp, and even tiny pygmy squid during the night dive.

​Day 2: brought us to the Shark Cave area for four more dives, a paradise for macro photography enthusiasts. We were thrilled to discover Seahorses nestled in beautiful seafans, delicate pipefish peeking out from cracks, intricate decorated crabs showcasing their vibrant colors, as well as elegant cuttlefish, ever-changing octopus, and graceful stingrays resting on the sandy bottom. The sight of a large school of yellow trevallies, batfish, snappers, and fusiliers manoeuvring gracefully in the blue waters added an extra touch of magic to our underwater adventures.

Days 3 and 4: brought us to the breathtaking Burma Banks after a peaceful 10-hour westward cruise. The diving experience in this area was nothing short of extraordinary, as we found ourselves immersed in warm, crystal-clear waters with visibility exceeding 40 meters. As we explored the vast underwater landscape, we were mesmerized by the sight of giant sandy mountains rising from the depths and adorned with vibrant coral bommies, teeming with a diverse array of marine life.
​
One of the highlights of our dives was encountering the serene and magnificent nurse sharks, a sight that left us in awe. We were fortunate to witness numerous Nurse sharks during our time exploring this underwater paradise. Additionally, the waters were alive with large schools of surgeonfish, majestic Napoleons, formidable giant trevallies, sleek snappers, and the most impressive school of fusiliers one could imagine. It was a truly unforgettable experience for everyone on board.

​​Days 5 and 6: saw us returning to the mesmerizing Mergui Archipelago, this time diving in the Western Rocky area. Our first stop was the Seafan Forest, a site adorned with towering pinnacles draped in magnificent giant seafans. Here, we were treated to the sight of schools of snappers, big-eyed Trevally, and fusiliers gracefully swimming among the colorful marine life. Amidst this underwater jungle of seafans, we were delighted to spot a Seahorse, adding to the enchanting experience.

Our exploration then led us to The Cave of Western Rocky, where we encountered the usual array of beautiful nudibranches, shrimps, and crabs. However, the true highlight was the unexpected appearance of a massive Marble Ray at the far end of the cave, leaving us in awe of nature's wonders. A beautiful clown Frogfish was also waiting for us on the other side of the cave close to a pair of Harlequin shrimps!

Further dives around Eagle Rock and The Islets revealed the underwater splendor of the archipelago, with remarkable visibility allowing us to marvel at schools of yellow fin barracuda and trevallies cruising through the pristine waters. It was a truly unforgettable experience, with each dive unveiling a new and exciting facet of this incredible marine world.

​On our final day of diving, Day 7, we savored the opportunity to explore the depths of Dendro's Peak, a deep pinnacle nearby teeming with marine life. Here, we were fortunate to encounter elusive ghost pipefish, elegant stingrays gliding effortlessly through the water, and schools of majestic big-eyed Trevallies. Each sighting added to the magic of the underwater world, leaving us in awe of its wonders.

Our last dive took us to the breathtaking lagoon of Volcano Island, where we embarked on a unique diving experience. Beginning with a tranquil descent into the shallow waters, we eventually surfaced within the confines of the island itself. Here, surrounded by the untouched beauty of nature, we were enveloped in a sense of serenity and harmony, punctuated only by the melodic sounds of native birdlife. It was a fitting conclusion to our underwater journey, offering a perfect blend of adventure and tranquility to carry with us as cherished memories.