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Trip report North Andaman from 4th to 8th April 2023

29/5/2023

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Welcome aboard, fellow underwater explorers!

We had another fantastic cruise this week with a very international crowd onboard! Divers from Taiwan, Hong Kong, Canada, Australia, France, Germany, America, and Switzerland. We were like the United Nations of scuba diving, ready to conquer the Andaman Sea!

Fish bank on the reef
Trevallies bank
A fishy and amazing dive!
Our journey started in Surin National Park, where we were greeted with crystal clear water and an underwater playground that would make even Ariel jealous. We saw schools of colourful fish, and Richelieu Rock felt like we were in our very own Finding Nemo movie. We navigated overnight towards Koh Tachai and Koh Bon, and boy, were we in for a treat!
The cruise always begin by a little ceremony
The cruise always begin by a little ceremony
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We met 2 oceanic manta rays about 4 meters wide and big blotched fantail ray about 1,5 meters large!

Koh Tachai, also known as "The Island That Time Forgot," is closed to tourists since 2018 to allow the island's coral reefs to regenerate. Luckily for us, we are still allowed to dive around the corner on Koh Tachai Pinnacle, which was like finding the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow! We saw more marine life than we ever could have imagined and a cute hawkbill turtle came by to say hello! . This time we were part of a National Geographic documentary :)

Koh Bon was our next stop, and it didn't disappoint. We saw oceanic manta rays, and it was like they were putting on a show just for us. It was like watching ballet, but instead of ballerinas, we had these majestic creatures. The dive site was so beautiful that even the fish were taking selfies :)
Koh Bon is the best dive site in Thailand to see Manta rays. Current here can be mild to strong, and this should be taken into account by your guide when selecting the entry and exit point for your dive. There are actually 2 main dive sites here: Koh Bon Pinnacle and the
 ridge at the West of Koh Bon. This is a well known cleaning station where mantas are often spotted gliding slowly in the current...
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This ray was so big!!!
Beautiful Manta ray in the blue
Yet this one was bigger!!! :)
We also did the Backwater dive that night, and it was like we were in a scene from Alice in Wonderland. We saw pelagic snail, day octopus, paper nautiluses, and other creatures that we didn't even know existed. It was like diving into a fantasy world. 
Wonderful baby nautilus
Paper nautilus
Baby octopus
Baby squid in the salp
Another cute baby alien
Cute fish in salp
Our diving adventure took us to Similan National park and Racha Noi next one our way back to Phuket and what a dream come true. We saw everything from Kuhl's stingray, big schools of barracuda, nudibranch, and even wipe coral shrimp. 

The Similan Islands have been made famous for the wealth of their coral reefs teeming with wildlife and usually great diving conditions it is rare to have bad visibility here and both divers and snorkelers can see a number of marine species and brids more diverse than anywhere else. The beach stop are not to shabby either!
Barracudas explosion!
Zanzibar shrimp
We want to thank our international group for choosing The Smiling Seahorse to explore the Andaman Sea. We hope you had a wonderful trip with us and that you have a safe journey back home. We can't wait to see you again because you are now part of our diving family. Keep calm and dive on!
Beautiful moon, beautiful mood!
HAPPY! On the MV Smiling Seahorse
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Trip report : North Andaman from 29th of March to 2nd of April 2023

22/5/2023

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diving trip report April 2023 in Thailand's North Andaman
Ahoy there, fellow adventurers! We've just returned from an epic liveaboard dive trip in the North Andaman of Thailand, and boy oh boy, was it a blast!
Thank you to Jeremy and Clara to come back diving with us and Kristoffer and Mairead to visit your friend Mint
With twelve intrepid divers from all around the world, we set out on a new itinerary that took us from Phuket all the way to Khao Lak, traversing the Similan and Surin National Parks along the way. We had guests from Switzerland, Sweden, France, Canada, and the United Kingdom, all with one common goal – to explore the vibrant and diverse underwater world of the Andaman Sea.
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We want to give a big shoutout to our repeat guests, Jeremy and Clara, for choosing to dive with us again.

​And a warm welcome to Kristoffer and Mairead, who came to visit their friend Mint and ended up having the adventure of a lifetime with us!
Special thanks also go out to Clara Chanson, who took the incredible underwater shots that we're using in this post. You rock, Clara!
Beautiful ribbon eels
We got so lucky seeing these ribbon eels out of their hole for a sexy dance!
Cuttlefish eye
Guess who? --- Cuttlefish eye
Now, let's get to the juicy details of the trip. We started off by cruising through the night to the Similan National Park, where we kicked things off with a check dive on Shark Fin Reef. This dive site is a heap of big boulders made of granite that form a stunning underwater landscape. And boy, did we see some amazing marine life there! Napoleon Wrasse, Humphead Parrotfish, massive box fish, Hawksbill turtles, and even a white tip reef shark to get us started. What a way to begin the trip!
Baby octopus on blackwater dive
Baby octopus on blackwater dive
On the second day of diving, we headed to the northernmost islands of the Similan National Park, exploring Koh Bon in the morning and Tachai Pinnacle in the afternoon.

​We saw white tip reef sharks, huge Jenkin's Whiprays, Barracudas, Ornate Ghost Pipe Fish, commensal shrimp carrying their eggs, and even a squad of Smalltooth Emperors with their friend Bluefin Trevallies hunting on the reef. Talk about a diverse ecosystem!
As we slowly made our way north, we explored some of the best dive sites in the park, including West of Eden and Elephant Head Rock. The former boasts an incredible coral garden, while the latter offers swim-throughs between huge boulders. We even got lucky enough to spot two ribbon eels completely out of their holes, swimming on the sand. So beautiful!

The final dive of the day was either a sunset dive in Koh Bon or the famous Blackwater Dive away from the reef around our pumpkin. And once again, Lady Luck smiled upon us, allowing us to meet a paper nautilus! Can you believe it?
Anemone shrimp
Anemone shrimp
Nudibranches always make our day!
Nudibranches always make our day!
The following day, we headed towards the world-famous dive site Richelieu Rock in the Surin National Park and dived around the horse shoe shape reef for the whole day.

Barracudas and Trevallies were hovering over the reef, swimming in between the mass of glassfish trying to get protection from the corals.

​Yellow, purple and red soft corals are growing all over the rocks, sharing the space with some different type of hard coral. Nudibranchs, juvenile fish, so many different crustaceans and loads of moray eels find some shelter in the cracks.
On the final day of diving, we explored the Boonsung Wreck for the two final dives, and it was a fantastic way to end the trip. We saw bamboo sharks, Kuhl's Stingrays, Cuttlefish, Nudibranchs, Octopuses, Crabs, Shrimps with their partner gobies digging the sand, and lots of juveniles seeking shelter on the wreck.

We want to thank everybody who chose The Smiling Seahorse to explore the Andaman Sea with us. It was an absolute pleasure to share our lifestyle with you all. We hope to see you again soon for more underwater adventures!
Wonderful porcelain crab in anemone
Wonderful porcelain crab in anemone
Cute gobi
Glass cleaner shrimp
Beautiful nudibranche on the reef
Coral crab
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Trip report North Andaman from 4th to 10th of March 2023

8/4/2023

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Some people want to see All of the Andaman Sea in a week on our 8d/7n North And South Andaman, other prefer to take there time and explore more dive sites in the same area. On this 7 days/6 night cruise we really have time to explore many sites in Surin and Similan islands and dive places we oversee on our more fast pace expeditions.
Our guests this week came from Germany, France, England, America and Israel to dive with us and we had a blast! Thanks again for choosing us. Also, congratulations to Aveline for her Advanced Open Water certification and a happy birthday to Ken!
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It was nice to start this cruise from Ranong, our main port since 2012 and one we dont get to see much since COVID which gave some of our guests the chance to board from the paradisiac little island of Koh Phayam. We spent the first day in the Surin National Park where a Juvenile shaded batfish greeted us at Yellow Rock, such a graceful angel of the sea. A big blotched stingray was also sleeping under a rock on the same divesite and Pikachu nudibranch were in their usual location next to Torinla but we also really enjoyed the big school of sweetlips forming a ball on the satellite finger reef.
Nudibranch
sweet lips school
We embarked on a southward cruise to reach the Similan National Park, where we indulged in three unforgettable days of diving, completing a total of twelve dives. The water was crystal clear, teeming with a diverse array of marine life. Our underwater explorations yielded sightings of fascinating creatures like sharks, rays, and the adorable nudibranchs with their eggs.
We were fortunate to observe a large and striking spearer mantis shrimp, as well as a few ribbon eels, both the in black and yellow, as well as blue and yellow (did you know their colors tell their sex? more in the blogpost) . Additionally, we came across some multibar pipefish, carrying their eggs on their bellies.
Our experience at Tachai was particularly remarkable, with excellent conditions that allowed us to witness an immense school of barracuda, black tip reef sharks, and various species of trevallies hunting above the pinnacle. It was truly a remarkable adventure that we'll cherish for a lifetime.
lionfish
nudibranch eggs
nudibranch
Ribbon eel
multibar pipefish
spearer mantis shrimp
Clown triggerfish
One of the highlights of our trip was discovering a bright juvenile clown triggerfish nestled in the crevices of Koh Bon Pinnacle. However, the night and blackwater dives proved to be even more remarkable, as we encountered an abundance of fascinating marine life. We were thrilled to spot numerous nudibranchs and crustaceans, including the elusive slipper lobster and spider crabs, amongst the vibrant and diverse reef ecosystem.

What really captivated our attention were the peculiar creatures in their larval stage, which were drawn towards the bright lights of our bright pumpkin. It was an awe-inspiring sight that truly made the night and blackwater dives unforgettable experiences.
Barracuda's
Our last day and a half was spent diving in the Surin National Park, exploring the world-renowned dive site of Richelieu Rock. As expected, the breathtaking underwater world left us in awe. The diversity of fish species was astounding, with schools of emperors, trevallies, and rainbow runners growing bigger and bigger by the day.
We were mesmerized by the stunning soft corals that adorned the reef in shades of pink, orange, purple, and blue, providing shelter to countless glassfish and shrimps. It was a truly spectacular sight that will stay with us for a long time to come.
On behalf of The Smiling Seahorse, we would like to extend our heartfelt gratitude to our very special guests for choosing us as your dive partner in the Andaman Sea. It was an absolute pleasure having all of you on board, and sharing this fantastic trip with us.

We would like to give a special shout-out to our returning guests Boris, Nicolas, and Philippe. It is always a joy to have familiar faces on board and to dive with passionate divers like you. We hope to see you again soon for more exciting underwater adventures.
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Whale sharks expedition, 04th to 12th February 2023

20/2/2023

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This week marked our third collaboration with Thai Whale Sharks, as we welcomed Marine Biologist and the founder of the project, Kirsty Magson onboard for 8 days of diving as we explored the north and south Andaman on the lookout for the world’s biggest fish. Kirsty delivered daily lectures on all things' shark as she educated guests on Whale Shark Ecology, Shark Biology, Threats to Sharks, Ecotourism, Whale Shark Conservation, Whale Shark Feeding and the Process behind Whale Shark ID. The trip was built around dive sites that offered the best chance to spot some of these gentle giants, so a lot of time was spent looking in the blue, but how did we get on?
The sunset and...
The sunset and...
the moon...
the moon...
Departing from Phuket the first stop on the agenda was Koh Haa and Lanta National Park to dive Hin Muang and Hin Daeng. Theses dive sites famous for the Dendronepthya soft corals which give these sites their names offered a lot of very fishy encounters as we were surrounded by schooling jacks, emperor fish and some were lucky enough to find 2 stone fish relaxing on the reef. Unfortunately, no signs of anything big in the blue this day but we did encounter some very large sea hares (Dolabella auricularia).
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dive sites were super fishy
Barracuda's school
Barracuda's school
barrel sponge seascape
school of emperors
Day 2 and 3, we headed to Tarutao National Park, for dives sites such as steps, 8 miles Rock and of course Stonehenge. These 2 days provided us with Frogfish, seahorses, cat sharks, sea slugs, a wide array of hard and soft coral diversity and even a quick hello from another of the gentle giants, the Manta Ray (unfortunately not in front of Franck's lense so no photo...)
Large sea hares (Dolabella auricularia)Flounder perfectly hiding on the sand
Day 4 marked our return to Koh Haa but this time we explored the Cathedral (the perfect place for a photo op) and Chimney before a sunset dive at Shark Point on the lookout for the Leopard Sharks (also called zebra shark). 

Diving South Andaman Thailand
Cathedral, Koh Ha, South Andaman
Koh Ha, South Andaman
Koh Ha, South Andaman
Cute and beautiful... the Zebra shark!Cute and beautiful... Leopard aka Zebra shark!
Across the groups we encountered not 1, not 2 but 3 zebra sharks, so there were many happy faces upon the return to the boat.

leopard shark in thailand 2023
Zebra shark thailand phuket diving
Day 5 and we headed North to the Similans to explore Shark Fin Reef, Elephant Head and Three Trees. Octopus and Ribbon Eels were high on everyone’s list of must-see animals. The Similans also provided an opportunity to jump off the boat and feel sand between our toes as we headed to the beach at…….. and the chance of an encounter with the Nicobar Pigeon. We ended the day with a sunset dive at Koh Bon and a blackwater dive, the first for many aboard (and most certainly not the last) with snake blennies, paper nautilus and so much more being seen.
The next day brought us to Koh Taa Chai, encounters with Black Tip and White Tip Reef Sharks as well as Eagle Rays and the school of Barracuda made for some amazing diving.
Snake blennie
Snake blennie
Baby boxfish
Baby boxfish
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Paper nautilus
Paper nautilus
Day 7 and it was off to Richelieu Rock for 4 dives, and what a day we picked. Conditions were incredible with amazing visibility, low currents and of course some of the best diving in Thailand. The schools of jacks, glass fish, rainbow runners and emperor fish meant there was activity all through the water column and closer to the ground, we found Harlequin Shrimp, Seahorses, Sea Slugs, Peacock Mantis Shrimp and more.
Wonderful Arlequin shrimp on her prey
Wonderful Arlequin shrimp on her prey
Cute Pikachu nudi!
Cute Pikachu nudi!
A cowrie shell in the light...
A cowrie shell in the light...
Beautiful porcelain crab on anemone
Beautiful porcelain crab on anemone
To round off the trip, we ended with 2 dives on the Boonsung Wreck ahead of landing in Khao Lak. The wreck was destroyed in the tsunami, but offers a wide array of marine life living in all the nooks and crannies that can be found. Cat sharks, sea slugs, cuttlefish, and the honeycomb moray eel were favorites of the day and a great way to round off the trip.
Whilst we weren’t lucky enough to encounter any whale sharks on this trip, we were fortunate to enjoy some incredible diving with some amazing marine life. So, until our next adventure, thanks for reading. 
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Diver's love...
Love for the Ocean!
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So happy to dive with The Smiling Seahorse!
So happy diving with you all on The Smiling Seahorse!

Our special whale sharks in 2024:

Wanna learn something new from Kistry on our next Whale shark and marine bio expedition?! 
​Save the date for the next edition!
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Richelieu Rock Photo Clinic from 13th to 18th of January 2023

20/1/2023

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Richelieu Rock Photo clinic: get the best underwater photography of thailand
2023 started with some fantastic photo opportunities as we ran 2 photo clinic back to back with our special guest Alex Tyrrell from Dive4photos. The first one was our dedicated blackwater expedition with blackwater dives planned every night (click here to read the trip report). Our second cruise of the year was dedicated to getting the best photos Thailand's Andaman Sea can offer and this is why we decided to focus on thailand's best dive site and one of the World's top 10: Richelieu Rock for most of the cruise. 
Underwater photographers from Thailand, India, England, America, South Korea and France enjoyed daily presentations by Alex in order to get the most out of their cameras!
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macro photography of the eggs of a ghotpipefish
closeup of a ghost pipefish pouch full of eggs!
Alex Tyrrell is an award-winning photographer specialised in underwater photography. He owns and operate Dive4photos, the premium facility in Thailand for underwater photography training. He has been teaching and mentoring photographers since 2008, and his expertise in the field has helped many students achieve success.

His understanding of various techniques, such as the use of snoots, sunbursts, silhouettes, and motion blur, is evident in his portfolio. His work has been featured in several dive magazines, including Sport Diver, Scuba Diving, and DIVE Magazine, and he also writes articles on underwater photography techniques for many nice publications.

Throughout this photo expedition, Alex gave us presentations about different UW photo topics such as, choosing your subjects, capturing the perfect Reef Scene, integrating sun ball and Sun beams in your photography, capturing the Peak of action and so much more.
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We had plenty of time to practice these new skills with no less than 14 dives on Richelieu Rock and I can promise you, we didn't get bored! Every dive with a new opportunity to explore new cracks and cranny and find more colourful critters!
thailand colourful nudibranch
pair of Harlequin shrimps richelieu rock thailand
bannerfish photographed at richelieu Rock
richelieu rock's pair of Harlequin shrimps on the reef
diving with jellyfish in thailand photo clinic
We found the delightful pikachu nudibranch and pretty yet oh so mean harlequin shrimps.
We witnessed clark anemone fish's parents nurturing their eggs under the protective skirt of their anemone.
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Our wide angle captured amazing action with huge ball of jackfish dancing on the reef. There was so much marine life that we didn't know where to look at. School of trevallies, fusillier, yellow goatfish, emperor, batfish, barracuda and glass fish all of this with the pretty pink soft coral that gave Richelieu rock its name! 
ball of jackfish underwater photo clinic thailand
underwater photo clinic thailand capturing fish action
the reef was alive  during this underwater photo clinic on richelieu rock
snappers shot in thailand
colorful reef and fish in thailand
beautiful anemone scene underwater photography
The days were bright and colourful but that didn't stop us from running a few night dives, especially blackwater dives for which The Smiling Seahorse became Thailand's expert!
We tried a new spot near the Surin islands, where we installed two lines to accommodates all the divers more comfortably and what great encounters we had!
blackwater diving in Thailand squid
blackwater diving in Thailand pretty squid
cephalopod on blackwater dive in Thailand
photo clinic with blackwater diving
blackwater diving in thailand, underwater photography
underwater photography on blackwater dive in thailand
moray eel blackwater diving in thailand
photo clinic and blackwater in Surin national park thailand
blackwater diving in Thailand crustaceans at night
What a pleasure it has been to welcome all these talented photographers! Thank you all for coming diving with The Smiling Seahorse, the choice liveaboard for Underwater photographers in Thailand!
underwater photographers having fun in thailand
thanks for a wonderful cruise :)
Thailand liveaboard camera room
our camera room was pretty full this month!

Our next photo clinics with Alex Tyrrell will be in January 2024 and are now opened for bookings!

thailand blackwater photo liveaboard expedition
more info about our Blackwater + photo clinic
thailand underwater photo clinic
more info about the Richelieu ++ photo clinic
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6th April 2022: South Andaman dive trip report

12/4/2022

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Heading back South Andaman after a month in the north Andaman. Was great!...

6th April North Andaman dive trip report
It is with 11 guests that we are setting sails. Four of them are return guests, which is for us the best review we can hope for! Among them, Pook is taking her photo skills to a new level and signed up for a full on photo coaching with Alex for the whole trip, while Nicolas is getting started with his brand new TG6 and signed up for 4 dives photo coaching with Franck.
After about one month spent in the northern part of the Andaman Sea, this week we are taking you back to the southern Andaman, going all the way to Koh Lipe, near the Malaysian border.
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A great diving days ending with cocktails and barbecue
A great diving days ending with cocktails and barbecue
South Andaman Island
South Andaman Island
The trip started from Phuket and after everyone checked in we enjoyed our first shared diner and started cruising toward Koh Haa, where we planned to have our first dive the next morning.
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The first dive to be the  check dive we picked the Laguna and had a nice and relaxed dive to start with allowing everyone to get back into diving mood and getting comfortable with the gear again…
We then went further south to Hin Daeng and Hin Muang for the rest of the day. Even though this is a famous dive site for manta sighting we were not lucky enough to spot one, but instead we were the happy witnesses of a big underwater ballet where the actors were trevallies, mackerels and tunas hunting into massive bait balls of glassfish moving like clouds again and again.
Divers under a boat with cool sunbeam
Divers under a boat with cool sunbeam
Lovely jelly fish and banner fish feeding on its tentacles
Lovely jelly fish and banner fish feeding on its tentacles
Tonight is the blackwater dive as well, off of hin Daeng we are very excited as the previous ones were absolutely mind-blowing…
6 guests out of 11 are game for the blackwater dive so we set up only one line and after half an hour sailing west we decide that it is deep enough, about 80 m of depth…
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Lizard fish on blackwater dive, south andaman
Lizard fish on blackwater dive, south andaman
One hour later everyone was back on board, the dive conditions were good, but the visibility made it challenging to spot critters…
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We still met some baby octopus, lizard fish, butterflyfish and loads of jellies and plankton like organisms making for a good but average blackwater dive.
It was time to sail overnight to Koh Lipe where we planned the morning dive at 8 mile rock…
The visibility was great, allowing us to see this abundance of life and magnificent soft coral covering the entire reef. 
Little shrimp on blackwater dive
Little shrimp on blackwater dive
blackwater diving of Hin Daeng Hin Muang
blackwater diving of Hin Daeng Hin Muang
Hard coral formation with a soft coral growing in the middle
Hard coral formation with a soft coral growing in the middle
The colour on the reef are so vibrant around Koh Lipe
The colour on the reef are so vibrant around Koh Lipe
Huge schools of yellow tail barracuda, jacks and giant trevallies are a regular there, the very mild current let us cruise around the pinnacle freely, we had 2 dives there exploring a bit further we found 2 ghostpipe fish ;)
Everyone was particularly blown away by the beauty of Stonehenge in the afternoon were on top of the vibrant colours we found the cutest baby seahorse! It is a dome like coral garden at about 20 m for the deepest part going all the way to 6 meters.
The site is covered with corals of all sorts mixed with barrel sponges and various clown fish inhabited anemones: it is an explosion of colours!  Absolutely stunning! Cruising the dive site we bumped into a massive school of chevron barracuda, it was the cherry on top making it a fantastic dive!
Diver over a school of fish
Diver over a school of fish
School of barracudas, Stonehenge, Lipe, South andaman
School of barracudas, Stonehenge, Lipe, South andaman
For the 4th and last dive we picked Koh Taru, a nice drift dive going with the current over the sandy patches looking for critters hiding there and in a lovely coral garden covered in yellow snappers, scorpion fish and fusiliers! 
After a well deserved night's rest, we headed back East for 3 more dive at Hin Daeng / Hin Muang before having the sunset dive at Koh Haa neua, aka the chimney! Everyone had a blast there, playing in the swim-through!
Cocktails were ready upon return to start up a lovely party with great food (yummy barbecue with  lamb legs, chicken wings, saussages and home made roated tomatoes, French fries and crunchy multi coloured salad). 

Fun was had by all, I won't tell you more...
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The end of the cruise was coming and for the last day and we start with koh haa yai, aka the cathedral, a very scenic dive with a massive cave in front of a rich coral garden.
The last group got lucky seeing a curious whaleshark! But as not everyone had seen it, we decided to stay for one more dive giving us another chance… unfortunately, that whale shark must have been in a rush because it did not hang around and Franck not being part of the lucky divers, we have no photos to illustrate this fantastic encounter. We were really close to the reef, finding tiny nudibranch one after the other when it came right up to us to say hello! 
The Smiling Seahorse at Koh Ha/ that's where we saw the whaleshark
The Smiling Seahorse at Koh Ha/ that's where we saw the whaleshark
Another wonderful sunset...
Another wonderful sunset...
Our last dive, the 15th of the trip, was at Koh Bida Nok, a nice and easy spot inhabitted by a group of resident black tip reef sharks!
Turns out, every guest got to see them! Some of us were lucky enough to have a good look at them while they were cruising in front of us, others only got a furtive glance as they were running away from the bubbles...
Phuket was only a 3 hours ride away, giving us plenty some time to look at the pictures of the trip and say good bye to everyone…
Happy divers with yellow seafan
Happy divers with yellow seafan
lovely reef scene Koh lanta national park
Lovely reef scene, Koh lanta National Park
Thank you all for coming, we had such a great time! we hope to see you again very soon!
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    The Smiling Seahorse Diving Blog

    A blog about our diving adventures in Burma and Thailand. Diving trip reports, guest reviews, fishy stories, wildlife fun facts and much more...
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    ​The Smiling Seahorse has been running dive cruises from Ranong since 2012.
    Our team of instructors are reporting with a short blogpost after every trip.
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    - About Myanmar liveaboards
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The Smiling Seahorse

Our dive cruises

170 Ruangrat Rd, Tambon khao nivet, Mueang Ranong District, Ranong 85000​
Phone: +66860110614​
​Mail: [email protected]

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