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South and North Andaman Sea, Thailand: March 23rd to 31st, 2025. Whale Shark Expedition

24/4/2025

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For this Whale Shark Expedition, we were thrilled to welcome aboard the M/V Smiling Seahorse a diverse group of divers from Romania, France, the USA, and Australia. Adding to the excitement, we were joined by Josh Johnson, a marine biologist specializing in whale shark conservation. Based in Koh Tao, Josh is a graduate of the University of Plymouth’s BSc Ocean Science and Marine Conservation program.

Josh shared fascinating insights into whale shark biology, ecology, and conservation:
“Although they are the largest fish in the world, they remain one of the least studied sharks globally, especially in Thai waters. With so much still to learn about them, it is crucial to explore new methods for monitoring their migration patterns and feeding hotspots. This allows us to implement the best conservation strategies to protect these gentle giants.”

Setting sail from Phuket on March 23rd, we first explored Koh Lanta National Park and Koh Tarutao National Park for three days before heading north to discover the wonders of the Similan and Surin National Parks. Each of these marine sanctuaries is a jewel of the Andaman Sea, boasting a unique blend of stunning underwater landscapes, thriving marine life, and vibrant coral ecosystems.
    •    Koh Lanta National Park is renowned for its dramatic limestone formations and rich marine biodiversity.
    •    Koh Tarutao, the largest national park in the Andaman, remains a pristine paradise with spectacular reefs and abundant pelagic life.
    •    The Similan Islands, world-famous for their breathtaking granite boulders and crystal-clear waters, offer incredible diving experiences with flourishing coral gardens and deep pinnacles.
    •    Surin National Park, home to the legendary Richelieu Rock, features one of Thailand’s most spectacular dive sites, teeming with marine life and a prime location for large pelagic encounters.

This unforgettable expedition combined breathtaking scenery, exceptional dives, and invaluable knowledge, leaving us all with a deeper appreciation for whale sharks and their conservation.
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Day 1 – Koh Lanta National Park

Our check dive at Koh Ha Lagoon provided a smooth and scenic introduction to the trip. Among the coral bommies, we spotted a perfectly camouflaged Ornate Ghost Pipefish, swaying gently with the current, while a curious Coral Grouper patrolled its reef territory. Schools of Yellowback Fusiliers darted through the water, accompanied by striking Emperor Angelfish, adding bursts of vibrant color to the scene.

In the afternoon and evening, we explored Hin Mueang and Hin Daeng, where the reefs were teeming with life. A Clown Frogfish, perfectly still and expertly blended into a sponge, caught our attention. Nearby, pairs of Ornate Ghost Pipefish hovered delicately in the water. Overhead, Red-Toothed Triggerfish swirled in mesmerizing formations, while Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef in search of prey. Schools of Rainbow Runners flashed by in unison, and among the hard corals, we admired a striking Peacock Grouper and a Blue-Barred Parrotfish lazily grazing.
triggerfish in South Andaman, thailand
ghostpipefish in thai waters
clownfish in lanta islands
butterflyfish in similan islands, elephant head rock

Day 2 – Koh Tarutao National Park

​The morning began at Hin Paad Mile, where Giant Trevallies moved in synchronized schools, their silver bodies flashing as they sliced through the water. Beneath a coral ledge, a massive Potato Grouper rested, watching us with a slow, deliberate gaze. Around us, schools of Bengal Snappers and Blue-and-Gold Fusiliers shimmered, creating a breathtaking display of color and motion.

At Stonehenge, the highlight was a perfectly camouflaged Tigertail Seahorse, delicately gripping onto a sea fan. Nearby, an Indian Walkman lay in wait on the sand, its intricate fins blending seamlessly with the ocean floor.
crab in a pretty jellyfish
school of trevalli in tarutao national park thailand
We ended the day with a mesmerizing Blackwater dive, drifting in the darkness while witnessing an extraordinary parade of tiny pelagic creatures rising from the depths--baby squids, larval fish, and even a tiny pelagic seahorse making a rare appearance.
sea snail thailand blackwater
blackwater diving in thailand - juvenile fish
sea butterfly on blackwater dive
blackwater diving photo of a pufferfish baby
halfbeak thailand blackwater
black water diving in south andaman thailand
squid of thailand - blackwater
shrimp blackwater thailand

Day 3 – Koh Lanta National Park

Before crossing to the Similan Islands, we completed one last dive at Hin Mueang, where we revisited our Clown Frogfish and discovered a few new additions to the scene. Moorish Idols glided effortlessly above the reef, a school of Twinstripe Fusiliers darted between coral formations, and a well-camouflaged Bearded Scorpionfish lay hidden among the rocks, waiting patiently for unsuspecting prey.
goatfish schooling in thai water
diving with a frogfish in koh lanta
anemone fish family in koh lanta

Day 4 – Similan Islands, Similan National Park

Our dive at Shark Fin Reef welcomed us with a breathtaking spectacle of marine life—schools of Lunar Fusiliers swirled around us in a dazzling display, while Parrotfish crunched noisily on the reef, shaping the underwater landscape with every bite.

At West of Eden, we encountered a playful Octopus, shifting colors in a mesmerizing dance before our eyes. A Rock Mover Wrasse skillfully flipped coral rubble in search of hidden prey, while a Psychedelic Batwing Seaslug nestled discreetly in a crevice, adding a splash of vibrant color to the reef.

At Elephant Head Rock, the current carried us effortlessly past Giant Trevallies hunting in the blue, while a pair of Sweetlips hovered serenely beneath an overhang. In a sandy patch, a White Tip Reef Shark lay motionless, completely undisturbed by our presence.

We ended the day with a captivating night dive at Turtle Rock, where Basket Stars unfurled their intricate arms to feed, and Decorator Crabs, masterfully disguised with sponges and algae, scuttled stealthily across the seabed.
psychedelic sea slug batwing thailand south andaman
school of trevalli in thailand hin muang lanta
favorite nudibranch of thailand
lionfish in koh lanta - hin daeng

Day 5 – Similan Islands, Similan National Park

Xmas Point welcomed us with a vibrant display of reef life—from the dazzling flashes of Blue Striped Snappers to the sleek, steady glide of a Barracuda lurking in the distance.

At 3 Trees, a Blue Spotted Stingray lay half-buried in the sand, perfectly camouflaged, while a massive Potato Grouper loomed near the coral formations, surveying its domain.

Meanwhile, Koh Bon Pinnacle and West Ridge were alive with movement, as schools of Rainbow Runners and Longnosed Emperors wove effortlessly through the currents, creating a mesmerizing underwater ballet.
tomatoe grouper
thailand is a very fishy dive spot
giant seafan in similan island's three trees
beautiful gorgonean in similan islands thailand

Day 6 – Similan National Park

Returning to Koh Bon Pinnacle and West Ridge, we were greeted by Batfish, curiously circling around us, while Barracudas held their ground against the current.

Later, at Koh Tachai Pinnacle, we navigated through massive boulders draped in soft coral, discovering Lobsters tucked away in crevices, more Barracudas patrolling the reef, and a sleek Black Tip Reef Shark gliding effortlessly past—an exhilarating finale to an unforgettable dive.
diving with barracudas
hawkfish in thailand north andaman sea
thailand reef scene

Days 7 & 8 – Surin National Park

Our final two days at Richelieu Rock were nothing short of spectacular. The site was teeming with life--Ornate Ghost Pipefish hovered gracefully among feather stars, Tigertail Seahorses clung to delicate sea whips, and Porcelain Crabs filtered plankton with meticulous precision. Banded Stick Pipefish wove through the reef, while Big Eye Trevallies and Giant Trevallies darted back and forth in a relentless hunting frenzy.

In the blue, schools of Barracudas hung motionless, suspended in perfect formation. We were mesmerized by a vast mixed school of Rainbow Runners, Emperors, and Big Eye Trevallies, moving in unison like a single, fluid entity. Red Snappers lurked near the coral formations, adding the final flourish to an already unforgettable experience.

As we sailed back to Ranong, the excitement and memories of the trip lingered among our group. The Whale Shark Expedition had given us not only breathtaking encounters with Thailand’s marine giants but also a deeper appreciation for the intricate beauty of the Andaman Sea’s underwater world.

Until next time, we carry with us the wonders of the deep and the hope for future encounters with the gentle giants we strive to protect.
thailand reef scene
fun team onboard thailand liveaboard
thailand diving best dive sites
relaxing between the dives
lovely guests this week
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Best of North and South Andaman Sea, Thailand: March 14 - March 21, 2025

28/3/2025

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trip report 23rd of March 2025
Our latest adventure took us across the best dive sites of the North and South Andaman Sea, Thailand. This week, we welcomed guests from the USA, Germany, France, Switzerland, and Israel aboard the Smiling Seahorse in Ranong, eager to explore the wonders of the Surin, Similan, Lanta, Tarutao and Koh Phiphi National Parks. Each of these parks offers unique marine landscapes, from vibrant coral gardens to dramatic underwater pinnacles, promising an unforgettable journey beneath the waves.

Day 1: A Colorful Start in the Surin National Park

​Our first dive at Koh Chi was a gentle check dive, allowing everyone to get comfortable while enjoying the sights of a friendly hawksbill turtle gliding through the reef. Schools of blue-tailed snappers created a mesmerizing display, while a tiny yellow boxfish peeked out from the coral, amusing us with its clumsy movements. Among the vibrant reef, we spotted angelfish, fusiliers, and parrotfish darting between the coral formations.
coral table and butterflyfish
ghost pipefish
tigertail seahorse
thailand andaman clownfish
emperors and trevalli hunting in Richelieu Rock
​The second and third dives brought us to the legendary Richelieu Rock, where life teemed in every direction. Enormous schools of rainbow runners and jacks swirled together, accompanied by long-face emperor fish patrolling the depths. A delicate tiger tail seahorse swayed with the current, while ghost pipefish skillfully camouflaged themselves among soft corals. Peering into crevices, we discovered peacock mantis shrimp and flabellina nudibranchs adding bursts of color to the scene. Surgeonfish, fairy basslets, and Moorish idols flitted through the coral gardens, making for a lively spectacle.
For our night dive at Richelieu Rock, the mysterious "green monster"—a dense thermocline—rolled in, adding a touch of adventure to the dive. Despite the water movement, we enjoyed the eerie sight of moray eels hunting under the cover of darkness, while countless crabs and shrimps scuttled across the reef. A porcupinefish hovered nearby, watching the activity unfold.

Day 2:  Entering ​Similan National Park at Koh Tachai and Koh Bon

​At Koh Tachai, our first dive began with a fascinating scene: a pair of white-banded cleaner shrimp diligently grooming a large moray eel. Nearby, two painted spiny lobsters peeked out from their rocky hiding spots. Jackfish patrolled the blue, moving in pairs as they hunted in synchrony. Amid the bustling reef, we found butterflyfish, wrasses, and gobies going about their daily routines.
On our second dive at Koh Tachai, we drifted along with a large school of batfish, their graceful movements mesmerizing against the backdrop of the deep blue. The reef revealed hidden gems like a Maldives sponge sea snail and a pustulose wart slug, while angelfish and bannerfish weaved between the corals.
Koh Bon was our next destination, where fantastic visibility allowed us to fully appreciate the marine spectacle. A big family of batfish greeted us in the bay, their silver bodies flashing in the sunlight. As we ventured further, a massive school of yellow snappers engulfed us, moving as one. Mantis shrimp darted between the rocks, while ghost pipefish hovered delicately among the soft corals. The presence of giant groupers and the occasional passing fusilier added to the excitement.
snake blenny Blackwater diving
school of batfish
pufferfish Blackwater diving
Happy Birthday!!!
Happy Birthday!!!

Day 3: Exploring the Similan Island

​Our morning dive at Three Trees introduced us to a resting hawksbill turtle, peacefully nestled among the corals. Pipefish drifted along the sandy bottom, while rays and lobsters lurked under overhangs. The reef was alive with fairy basslets, fusiliers, and wrasses, their colors creating a dazzling underwater display.

At Elephant Head Rock, we navigated through the boulder formations, where porcelain crabs clung to their anemone homes. A small family of tunas cruised by, accompanied by schools of fusiliers and snappers. West of Eden offered a spectacular sighting of a Sagaminopteron psychedelicum nudibranch, alongside an octopus skillfully changing colors to blend with its surroundings. A sea snake made a brief appearance, weaving gracefully through the reef.

​As the sun began to set, we returned to Koh Bon, where a large school of milkfish swam past, shimmering in the golden light.
coral and cute blenny
Day octopus in Similan islands
juvenile clown triggerfish
how cute is this baby clown triggerfish???
psychedelic batwing sea slug, nudibranch hunting in thailand
pair of ornate ghost pipefish in Thailand

Day 4: Lanta National Park : Macro Wonders and Pelagic Thrill

​Our first dive at Hin Nam was filled with delicate discoveries, including ghost pipefish blending seamlessly with the reef and a juvenile clown triggerfish darting between the corals. Later, at Hin Daeng, we encountered tiny juvenile sweetlips moving in their signature wavy dance, while juvenile angelfish added a splash of color to the rocky crevices.
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Hin Muang provided thrilling action as tunas and rainbow runners hunted in the open water. Schools of batfish hovered effortlessly, while hundreds of red-tooth triggerfish filled the blue and a magical encounter with a clown frogfish. Our night dive at Hin Daeng revealed an entirely different world, where helmet crabs and decorator crabs scuttled across the seabed, and moray eels—both the common and zebra varieties—prowled for prey
pretty reef scene with moon wrass on top of soft coral
big eye trevalli in richelieu rock

Day 5:  Tarutao National Park : Cobia, Jacks, and Mysterious Creature

At 8 Mile, the dive site was alive with schools of large jacks and pairs of smaller hunters weaving through the reef. Among the coral, a beautiful tiger tail seahorse clung to its perch. Snappers and damselfish formed a colorful backdrop as we drifted through the site.
Stonehenge provided an awe-inspiring moment as we encountered a massive lion’s mane jellyfish, its trailing tentacles sheltering tiny fish. Blue dragons and an eagle ray gliding by added to the magic.
At Koh Taru, porcupinefish gathered in abundance, while southern stingrays rested on the sandy bottom. Koh Sawang brought sightings of comet fish and a well-camouflaged devil scorpionfish lurking among the coral.
We also had great encounters on blackwater dives with Indian Halibut and cusk eel!!!
blackwater diving in thailand indian halibut
fantastic finds on blackwater diving in the andaman sea: cusk eel
octopus in blackwater dive
many cephalopods in the andaman sea, especially on blackwater dives

Day 6: Lanta National Park

​Returning to Hin Daeng, we found zebra and honeycomb moray eels slithering through the reef, while a school of batfish hovered gracefully nearby. Hin Muang offered another chance to observe ghost pipefish and playful juvenile clownfish, along with a tiny yellow boxfish hiding in a coral crevice.
Our final dives at Koh Haa brought us face-to-face with a hawksbill turtle cruising through the Cathedral, while thousands of glassfish filled the Chimney, creating a mesmerizing, swirling effect.
clown frogfish in Koh Lanta national park
clown frogfish with red tooth triggerfish in the background
Wonderful pink soft coral
Soft coral is thriving in Thai water

Day 7: A Grand Farewel

On our last day, Koh Bida Nok did not disappoint, with blacktip reef sharks and a majestic leopard shark making an appearance. At Shark Point, the grand finale included hundreds of yellowtail barracudas weaving through the water, while devil scorpionfish lay in wait among the coral.
With unforgettable dives behind us, we made our way back to Phuket, bidding farewell to our wonderful guests after an incredible week exploring Thailand’s best dive sites. Until next time, the Andaman Sea will be waiting!
Happy Faces cocktail on The MV Smiling Seahorse
Happy Faces cocktail on The MV Smiling Seahorse
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Liveaboard Dive Trip Report: Mergui Archipelago, March 6-12, 2025

18/3/2025

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At least 4 Mantas sightings this week and so much more!

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​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier, MV Smiling Seahorse embarked on an unforgettable dive safari into the stunning Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar. After clearing Thai immigration, our enthusiastic guests from France’s Galathée Group joined us as we proceeded to Kawthoung for entry formalities into Myanmar. Once completed, we set course northwest to begin our adventure in this remote and pristine marine paradise.
 
Our playground this week!
The Mergui Archipelago is a secluded paradise, boasting over 800 islands with dramatic limestone cliffs, mangroves, white sandy beaches, and vibrant coral reefs. Home to an incredible diversity of marine life, from macro critters to pelagic giants, it remains one of the last frontiers for divers seeking untouched underwater landscapes and thrilling encounters with oceanic mantas, reef sharks, and rare fish species.
A Frogfish at Black Rock
Beautiful Juvenile Lined Wrasse in the Mergui Archipelago

Day 1: Exploring the First Dive Sites
Check Dive at High Rock

​Our adventure began with a check dive at High Rock, where we were immediately welcomed by schools of yellowtail barracuda and yellowback fusiliers. Among the reef, we spotted moray eels, nudibranchs, and a beautiful thornback boxfish, also known as the cowfish. The highlight of the dive was an elusive tiger tail seahorse and a well-camouflaged stonefish lurking among the corals.
Heathy and colourful reef from the Mergui Archipelago
Tiger Tail Seahorse at High Rock Mergui Archipelago
Dive 2 at Bawe (Rainbow Rock)
​A spectacular site showcasing an array of colorful soft corals in shades of yellow, blue, pink, white, and red. Marine life was abundant, with Durban dancing shrimps, a baby yellow boxfish, giant moray eels, crabs, and scorpionfish in both juvenile and adult stages. Among the highlights were chromodoris annulata, a ring angelfish, a yellow-edged moray eel, a school of circular batfish, and the fascinating blue dragon nudibranch.
Colorful Mc Cosker's flasher wrasse in the Mergui Archipelago
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Dive 3 at South Twin
This site offered a mesmerizing blend of macro life and schooling fish. Notable sightings included banded stick pipefish, chromodoris annulata, blue dragon nudibranchs, and a large school of epaulette surgeonfish. We also encountered a Maldivian sponge snail and an impressive array of reef fish, including peacock grouper, common lionfish, and twinstripe fusiliers.
Night Dive
As darkness fell, we encountered fascinating nocturnal creatures, including cleaning partner shrimps, scorpionfish, octopuses, decorated crabs, giant moray eels, blue and white flatworms, and more blue dragons.
Beautiful Harlequin Shrimp in the Mergui Archipelago
Harlequin and Durban Dancing Shrimps in the Mergui Archipelago

Day 2: A Day of Manta Encounters at Black Rock

​Black Rock delivered one of the most thrilling experiences of the trip, with at least three different oceanic manta rays gracing us with their presence. Schools of rainbow runners, yellowtail barracuda, pickhandle barracuda, and bigeye trevally swirled around us. We also spotted striped bristletooth surgeonfish, juvenile yellow band fusiliers, and several macro treasures such as red and white clown frogfish, a giant white frogfish, and an orange frogfish. A great barracuda receiving a spa treatment from cleaner wrasses was another highlight. Additional reef fish seen included bicolor cleaner wrasse, blue and gold fusiliers, and six striped soap fish.
Majestic Oceanic Manta Ray gliding above the reef at Black Rock Mergui Archipelago

Day 3: Diving Three Islets & Village Visit

​Square Rock
Featuring tigertail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, chromodoris nudibranchs, a school of yellowtail barracuda, purple flabellina, and a magnificent marble ray.
Shark Cave
This site amazed us with its massive school of juvenile blue and gold fusiliers, chromodoris annulata, a baby tiger tail seahorse, and an impressive array of reef fish, including blacktip grouper and oriental sweetlips.
Submarine
Encounters included a bamboo shark sleeping among the rocks, a stonefish, trevallies, rainbow runners, wahoo, a massive school of yellow snappers, and porcelain crabs.
Village Visit - Khun Pi Law
During snack time, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque village with a white sandy beach and a beautiful Buddha temple, offering a glimpse into the local culture before heading back for our night dive.
Night Dive at Shark Cave
Decorated crabs, white-eye moray eels, Durban dancing shrimps, baby slipper lobsters, basket star shrimps, blue and white flatworms, blue dragons, and tiny tigertail seahorses, including a very small baby one, made this dive truly magical.
Frogfish in the Mergui Archipelago
Banded stick pipe fish on sea star at The Mergui Archipelago

Day 4 & 5: Manta Encounters & Spectacular Reefs

Diving at Sea Fan Forest, Western Rocky, and Eagle’s Rock brought us a quick but breathtaking visit from a massive oceanic manta, harlequin shrimps, Mc Cosker’s dwarf wrasse, cuttlefish mating, and large schools of fusiliers.
Highlights at The Cave, The Islets, and Eagle’s Rock included schools of yellow-lined fusiliers, moray eels, crabs, yellowtail barracuda, five-line snapper, twin stripe fusiliers, chromodoris annulata with its eggs, Maldivian sponge snails, and fimbriate moray eels.
Day five's blackwater dive was a thrilling experience featuring larval octopuses, pelagic seahorses, mantis shrimps, flounders, veliger pelagic snails, triggerfish, squids, lizardfish, and krill. The night ended with a fantastic BBQ, celebrating the trip with our amazing French group.
Tiny cephalopod Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago
Larval stage of Flounders Blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago
Pelaic Seahorse drifting in the open ocean during Blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago
Close up of pelagic Seahorse Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago
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Cuttle fish Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago

Day 6: Final Dive at Dendro’s Pea

​Our final dive site, Dendro’s Peak, provided a fitting end to an extraordinary journey. We encountered Jenkins rays, schools of fusiliers, bigeye trevally, rabbitfish, and an incredible variety of reef fish, including yellowfin goatfish, halfmoon grouper, and mimic sabretooth blennies.
Healthy Soft Coral reef in the Mergui Archipelago
Conclusion 
The Mergui Archipelago never ceases to amaze with its diverse marine life, stunning reefs, and pelagic action. With oceanic mantas, frogfish, seahorses, and a vast array of macro critters, this trip was truly unforgettable. We can’t wait to return for another adventure in these incredible waters!
Happy clients onboard
Manta sighting in the Mergui Archipelago
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Trip Report: Burma Expedition aboard MV Smiling Seahorse (February 26 - March 6, 2025)

15/3/2025

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Departing from Ranong Badin Pier, our journey began with the usual Thai immigration process before setting course for Kawthung, Burma. Once the formalities were completed, we sailed northwest into the vast and remote Mergui Archipelago, a hidden gem of the Andaman Sea. With over 800 islands scattered across the region, Mergui is a paradise for divers, featuring towering limestone formations, soft coral gardens, and thriving marine biodiversity. This journey brought together an international group of adventurers from the UK, USA, Taiwan, Germany, Switzerland, France, and Thailand, all eager to explore this pristine underwater world.
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Day 1: First Encounters... Check Dive at High Rock

A gentle check dive to start the trip, where we encountered schools of yellowtail barracuda and yellowback fusiliers gliding over the reef. Moray eels peeked out from rocky crevices, and macro lovers were delighted to spot nudibranchs. The highlight was the sighting of two juvenile tiger tail seahorses camouflaged among the sea fans.
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Dive 2 at Ba wei, aka Rainbow Rock
True to its name, Rainbow Rock boasted a colorful display of soft corals in yellow, blue, pink, white, and red. The reef was bustling with Durban dancing shrimps, baby yellow boxfish, and giant moray eels lurking in the shadows. Crabs, both juvenile and adult scorpionfish, and the striking chromodoris annulata nudibranch added to the spectacle. Among the angelfish, a beautiful ring angelfish made a rare appearance.

Dive 3 at South Twin
This dive site delivered with a fantastic variety of marine life. Banded stick pipefish hovered near the bottom, while blue dragons and chromodoris annulata nudibranchs decorated the reef. A school of dusky batfish moved in synchrony, and an impressive Maldivian sponge snail was spotted near a cluster of sea fans. The biggest excitement came when a grey reef shark cruised by, adding a touch of adrenaline to the dive.

Night Dive
Under the cover of darkness, the reef transformed. Cleaning partner shrimps tended to their clients, while a devil scorpionfish lay in wait. Decorated crabs in shades of yellow and pink scuttled across the seabed, alongside red coral crabs and the striking blue dragon nudibranch.
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Day 2: Black Rock Spectacle Black Rock – The Jewel of the North

Located in the far northern reaches of the Mergui Archipelago, Black Rock is one of Burma’s most exhilarating dive sites. Rising from the depths of the open sea, this isolated pinnacle attracts pelagic species, making it a hotspot for large schools of fish and occasional visits from oceanic giants.
The day's dives at Black Rock did not disappoint. We swam alongside a massive school of bigeye jacks and yellowtail barracuda. Juvenile yellow spot fusiliers darted between the coral-covered slopes, while mantis shrimps and porcelain crabs found refuge in crevices. Nudibranch enthusiasts were thrilled with sightings of chromodoris annulata and chromodoris risbecia pulchella. The grand spectacle of the day came when an oceanic manta ray gracefully soared above us, followed closely by a giant white frogfish resting on a ledge. Other highlights included an octopus displaying its camouflage skills, a juvenile African pompano, and a lurking cobia.

​Blackwater Dive
Venturing into the darkness, we encountered ghostly planktonic creatures—larvae of flounder, sea butterflies, shrimps, and free-swimming larvaceans, creating an ethereal underwater experience.


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Day 3: Three Islets – A Macro Wonderland Square Roc

This dive kicked off with tiger tail seahorses clinging to gorgonian sea fans, while orange spotted pipefish wove through the reef. Chromodoris nudibranchs added splashes of color, and a marble ray rested on the sandy bottom. The rare mordilla brocki nudibranch made an appearance, and to our delight, an eagle ray soared past.

​Shark Cave

A site known for its vibrant marine life, Shark Cave was teeming with schools of juvenile pickhandle barracuda and a massive congregation of blue-and-gold fusiliers. Pharaoh cuttlefish engaged in mesmerizing mating displays, shifting colors right before our eyes. A banded krait sea snake glided through the coral, while chromodoris annulata nudibranchs lined the rock walls. Adding to the excitement, a pregnant giant pufferfish hovered near a coral outcrop.

Submarine Reef

Stonefish expertly blended into the reef, while trevallies and rainbow runners dashed across the blue. A giant titan triggerfish patrolled the area, and decorated sea urchins provided shelter for small reef critters. A massive school of yellow snappers blanketed the site, making for an unforgettable dive.

Shark Cave (Night Dive)

This nocturnal dive revealed an array of decorated crabs, Durban dancing shrimps, and baby slipper lobsters. A basket star shrimp hid among the reef, and we even spotted a ghostly wahoo passing by in the distance.

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Day 4 & 5: Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky – Conservation Efforts Sea Fan Forest

A breathtaking dive site characterized by towering sea fans, home to tigertail seahorses, stonefish, and harlequin shrimps. Our dive team dedicated two dives to removing a massive ghost net draped across the east face of the reef, successfully freeing the site of this hazard.
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Western Rocky– The Cave
This legendary site, featuring a tunnel cutting through the island, offered sightings of moray eels, fusiliers, and lurking stonefish. A surprise encounter with a giant red frogfish at the safety stop made for a memorable end to the day.

Eagle Rock
Sunset diving here brought sightings of octopuses posing for cameras, baby lobsters, Maldivian sponge snails, and marble shrimps.
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Day 6: Dendro’s Peak – The Grand Final

Our final dive took place at Dendro’s Peak, a vibrant seamount bustling with marine life. Schools of giant trevallies, rainbow runners, and wahoo created an action-packed scene. Yellowtail barracuda and bigeye trevallies swirled around us, while mantis peacock shrimps and white-eyed moray eels hid among the rocks. A fitting end to an incredible expedition!

As we made our way back to Kawthung, we celebrated with the traditional Burmese beer before returning to Ranong, reminiscing about the unforgettable encounters of the past week. Until next time, Burma!

​Another unforgettable adventure with the MV Smiling Seahorse!
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18 FEB 2025 7 days North Andaman: Diving Surin and Similan national parks

13/3/2025

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Liveaboard trip repot Thailand North Andaman February 2025

Best of North Andaman Aboard MV Smiling Seahorse (18–24 February 2025)

Departing from Phuket, our international group of divers from the UK, USA, Germany, Australia, France, Sweden, Canada, and Austria embarked on an exciting journey through the northern Andaman Sea. Our itinerary took us through the spectacular dive sites of Similan National Park and Surin National Park, with the highlight dives at Koh Tachai and Richelieu Rock.
Diving Richelieu Rock
Similan diving safari

​Day 1: Similan National Park

Check dive at Shark Fin Reef (Similan#3): Our adventure began with a relaxed check dive, where we encountered giant trevally, dogtooth tuna, large families of Clownfish and a striking yellow adult boxfish. Hidden among the sand were blind partner gobies and their shrimp companions, while a curious hawksbill turtle made a brief appearance.
Dive 2 at West of Eden (Similan#7): This site delighted us with a mix of macro and pelagic encounters. We spotted Moyer’s dragonet, a juvenile white-blotch razor wrasse, and an adult rockmover wrasse darting between the corals. Devil scorpionfish lay camouflaged near giant clams, while McCosker’s dwarf wrasse shimmered in the shallows. Schools of blue-lined fusiliers and bluefin trevally kept the dive lively.
Dive 3 at Elephant Head Rock: Dramatic swim-throughs and rocky outcrops set the stage for sightings of porcelain crabs, ribbon eels, and a juvenile white-spotted boxfish. Giant trevally and bluefin trevally patrolled the deeper waters, while a stunning blue dragon nudibranch was spotted gliding over a sponge-covered boulder.
Dive 4 - Night Dive at Turtle Rock: Our first night dive introduced us to an active nocturnal scene. Moray eels emerged to hunt, bigfin reef squid hovered in the dark, and black-spotted egg cowries nestled among the soft corals. Crabs and shrimps scuttled about, while a sleepy sealface pufferfish rested near a coral head.
Andaman Sea diving with juvenile wrasse
fairy basslet in thailand

​Day 2: Similan National Park to Koh Bon

Dive 1 at Christmas Point (#9): A stunning start to the day, with sightings of a juvenile emperor angelfish, Napoleon wrasse, and a black-blotched porcupinefish. A vibrant mix of clown triggerfish, humpback unicornfish, and spotted boxfish kept us entertained.
Dive 2 at Three Trees (#9): Green and hawksbill turtles glided past us, while a massive school of bluestripe and twospot snapper swirled over the reef. A Napoleon wrasse made a brief appearance, and a blue-spotted stingray rested on the sandy bottom.
Dive 3 at Koh Bon Ridge: We encountered an array of groupers, including camouflage groupers and blue-lined groupers, alongside curious porcupinefish and a school of needlefish.
Dive 4 at Koh Bon Bay (Optional Blackwater Dive): One group explored the bay, where baby blacktip sharks, barracudas, and octopuses were spotted. The blackwater dive team encountered mesmerizing larval creatures, including sea elephants, mantis shrimp, anemone larvae, and tiny squid drifting in the darkness.
Thailand Blackwater diving photography
juvenile angelfish

​Day 3: Koh Bon to Koh Tachai

Dive 1 at Koh Bon Pinnacle: This deep pinnacle delivered thrilling encounters with longfin and dusky batfish, a school of barracuda, and a massive marble grouper.
Dive 2 at North Ridge and West Ridge: Giant trevallies and tuna passed by in strong currents. A Maldivian sponge snail was spotted on a rocky ledge, while an octopus put on a stunning display, changing colors as it moved between coral heads.
Dives 3 and 4 at Koh Tachai Pinnacle: This was one of the most breathtaking dive spots of the trip! The site was teeming with life—giant trevally, bluefin trevally, and dogtooth tuna hunted in coordinated bursts. A “spiny lobster city” revealed dozens of lobsters tucked into the rocky crevices, and a group of circular batfish hovered gracefully above the reef.
Underwater macro photography Thailand
Thailand liveaboard Seafans

​Day 4: Surin National Park

Dive 1 at Yellow Rock (Rainbow Rock): An explosion of color awaited us, with gold-spotted and painted sweetlips, African pompano, and schools of barracuda. Napoleon wrasse and a broadclub cuttlefish added to the excitement.
Dive 2 at Torinla Pinnacle: The legendary Picachu nudibranch made an appearance, alongside big marble groupers, giant moray eels, and triggerfish darting across the coral slopes.
Dive 3 at Ao Pakkard: We drifted among a school of baby blacktail barracudas, garden eels, and blue-spotted stingrays. A Chromodoris nudibranch clung to a sponge, adding a splash of color.
Dive 4 - Night Dive at Ao Pakkard: Our last night dive featured red coral crabs, tiger cowries, and banded boxer shrimp hiding among the anemones. Giant moray eels were actively hunting in the moonlit waters.
Giant Moray in Similan islands
goby on sea cucumber artistic underwater photo
Day 5: Cathedral-Like Pinnacle Dive
A truly magical site, with towering rock formations creating an awe-inspiring underwater landscape. Highlights included schools of blacktail and pickhandle barracudas, schools of cobias, and hunting big-eye trevallies. We spotted a potato grouper, a ghost pipefish, and a flabellina exoptata nudibranch. Juvenile oriental sweetlips and angelfish danced along the reef, while a tiger cardinalfish was seen guarding its eggs.
diving with big school of fish in Similans

​Day 6: Richelieu Rock – A Spectacular Finale

Our final dives at Richelieu Rock were the perfect ending to an already fantastic trip. The ornate ghost pipefish were back, adding an element of mystery to the site. A massive gang of giant trevally, golden trevally, longnose emperor, and rainbow runners formed a hunting frenzy over the reef. Schools of bigeye trevally created mesmerizing tornado-like formations, while tomato anemonefish hovered protectively over their eggs. A giant marble grouper lingered near a crevice, and a stunning blue dragon nudibranch was spotted among the soft corals.
titan triggerfish in similan islands
big grouper on the reef thailand
Final Thoughts
From the vibrant reefs of Similan National Park to the thrilling currents of Koh Tachai and the marine wonderland of Richelieu Rock, this trip truly showcased the best of North Andaman diving. With breathtaking encounters, stunning marine biodiversity, and an enthusiastic group of divers, this adventure aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse was nothing short of unforgettable.
harlequin ghostpipefish
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North to South Andaman Sea Liveaboard Trip Report : February 9-16, 2025

6/3/2025

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Wonderful to welcome this great Dive club from the USA in Thai Waters!

Our latest adventure took us on an unforgettable journey through the Andaman Sea, welcoming 16 enthusiastic divers from a US diving club lead by a return adventurer: Toby. Setting sail from Ranong on the evening of February 9th, we embarked on a week-long liveaboard trip exploring Thailand’s most famous dive sites, from Surin and Similan Islands to Koh Lanta and Koh Lipe National Parks. With crystal-clear waters, thriving marine life, and even a rare sighting of a blue marlin, this was a trip to remember!

Day 1: Surin Islands & Richelieu Rock – A Vibrant Start 

Our adventure began with a check dive at Koh Chi, a serene site within Surin Islands National Park. Calm waters and over 30 meters of visibility set the perfect stage for the trip. We spotted blue-spotted stingrays, parrotfish, fusiliers, moray eels, and butterflyfish as we explored the site’s diverse marine life.
Next, we completed three exhilarating dives at Richelieu Rock, Thailand’s most iconic dive site. This world-renowned location was teeming with life--giant schools of bigeye trevally, emperor fish, rainbow runners, barracudas, and batfish at the cleaning station. The croissant-shaped pinnacle, covered in soft corals, giant sea fans, and vibrant anemones, provided the perfect habitat for clownfish with their eggs, dancing shrimp, and porcelain crabs. Franck got to photograph a cardinal fish carrying its eggs in its mouth! 
richelieu rock was as fishy as ever
cardinalfish brooding its eggs in its mouth

Day 2: Koh Tachai & Koh Bon : Strong Currents, Big Rewards​

We kicked off Day 2 with an adrenaline-pumping dive at Koh Tachai Pinnacle. The strong current made for a challenging dive but rewarded us with an explosion of marine activity--huge schools of barracuda, tomato groupers, surgeonfish, snappers, fusiliers, batfish, and lobsters nesting in bommie corals.

Our third dive at Koh Bon Pinnacle was spectacular. With crystal-clear visibility and no current, we fully enjoyed the deep pinnacle, enveloped by dense schools of yellow snappers and massive batfish.
huge school of Barracudas
For our final dive of the day, we embarked on a blackwater dive, descending into the pitch-black depths over 80 meters of open ocean. Floating in the darkness, we encountered larval and post-larval fish, bulb squid, moray eels, flounders, mantis shrimp, snake blennies, and countless other deep-sea critters.
blackwater diving in thailand diamond squid
Juvenile Diamond Squid
flying gurnard blackwater diving in similan
flying gurnard

Day 3: Similan Islands – Boulders & Swim-Throughs

Our first dive at Three Trees took us through deep granite boulders covered in soft and hard corals. Among the highlights were blue-spotted stingrays, coral groupers, snappers, and fusiliers.
Next, we explored Elephant Head Rock, a diver’s playground filled with swim-throughs and tunnels among massive boulders. We encountered ribbon eels, octopuses, and giant trevallies hunting in the blue.
Our final dive of the day at West of Eden was a treat for macro lovers. This vibrant hard coral reef was home to turtles, seamoths, bluefin trevallies, and juvenile rock-moving wrasses.
hawkbill turtle in fish eye
psychedelic batwing slug
pair of ghostpipe fish in Thailand

Day 4: Hin Daeng & Hin Muang – Koh Lanta National Park

Diving at Hin Daeng and Hin Muang was nothing short of magical. These remote pinnacles, adorned with red and purple soft corals, were bursting with marine life. We encountered red-toothed triggerfish, milkfish, potato groupers, African pompanos, and bigeye and giant trevallies.
For macro enthusiasts, the highlights included two pairs of ghost pipefish, nudibranchs, juvenile emperor angelfish, and a rare juvenile clown triggerfish.

Tarutao National Park

Day 5: Koh Lipe & 8 Mile Rock – Hunting Trevallies & a Surprise Visitor
Our morning dives at 8 Mile Rock provided perfect conditions, excellent visibility, and no current. The dive site was buzzing with action, as giant trevallies hunted glassfish, while a potato grouper and a passing mobula devil ray made for unforgettable moments! (sorry no photo of this one).

Koh Lanta National Park – A Blue Marlin Encounter

​Day 6: ​Returning to Hin Daeng and Hin Muang, we enjoyed more encounters with their spectacular marine life. However, the real highlight of the day came during our third dive at Cathedral—as we explored its underwater caves, we were stunned to witness a rare blue marlin, a once-in-a-lifetime sighting!
Our final dive at Chimney took us through a dramatic vertical tunnel, where a pair of ghost pipefish greeted us at the exit.
beautiful islands in Lanta National park
masked angelfish in Koh Tachai dive site in thailand

Koh Phiphi National Park

Day 7: Koh Phi Phi & Shark Point – The Grand FinaleOur last full day of diving started at Bida Nok, where we explored shallow waters teeming with blacktip reef sharks, massive schools of yellow snappers, and a thriving coral reef.
For the final dive of the trip, we visited Shark Point, an absolute paradise for cephalopod lovers. We encountered bigfin squids, cuttlefish, and a breathtaking moment with a large leopard shark (zebra shark) resting on the sandy bottom.

An Unforgettable Adventure in the Andaman Sea.
From thrilling drift dives and intricate swim-throughs to mesmerizing blackwater encounters and a rare blue marlin sighting, this North to South Andaman Sea diving expedition was truly extraordinary. A huge thank you to our fantastic group of divers for making this trip an unforgettable experience!
Want to join us on our next Thailand liveaboard adventure? Explore our upcoming trips and dive into the magic of the Andaman Sea!
liveaboard sunset on the Andaman Sea
The Smiling Seahorse guiding team
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Trip Report: Burma Banks Adventure from 31st January to 7th February 2025

27/2/2025

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Nurse Sharks, Eagle Rays, Leopard Blenny & a Leaping Marlin!

February 2025 trip report: andaman Sea liveaboard
​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier after completing Thai immigration procedures, our international group of divers from Holland, the UK, the USA, Canada, Germany, and Colombia set sail for another exhilarating expedition aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. After formalities in Kawthung, Burma, we cruised northwest toward the remote and pristine waters of the Mergui Archipelago, anticipating days filled with thrilling dives before reaching the legendary Burma Banks.

About the Burma Bank

​The Burma Banks is an isolated offshore reef system consisting of vast submerged plateaus and seamounts rising abruptly from the deep ocean floor. Unlike the nearshore reefs of the Mergui Archipelago, which are fringed with islands, the Burma Banks lie far out in the Andaman Sea, approximately 180 km west of the Burmese coast. Known for their strong currents, these deep reefs attract large pelagic species and host expansive coral gardens teeming with marine life. Our divers were in for an unforgettable adventure.

Day 1: High Rock, Dragon Island & Bawei

Mergui Archipelago : first dive site
​Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the trip, with schools of yellowtail barracuda weaving through the water, accompanied by shimmering yellowback fusiliers. Moray eels peeked out from crevices, while nudibranch enthusiasts delighted in spotting various species, including the striking thornback boxfish, also known as cowfish.
diving with Myanmar's nudibranch
crown of thorne in the Andaman Sea
school of yellow fusilier
Andaman Blue water and schooling fish
​The second dive at Dragon Island had a mild current, allowing for an exciting drift dive. Baby yellowback fusiliers and juvenile barracudas formed mesmerizing clouds around the reef, while peacock mantis shrimps scuttled along the seabed. The reef was bursting with life—longfin batfish hovered in the currents, while clown triggerfish and regal angelfish added splashes of color to the scene.
dragon island in the south of Mergui Archipelago
beautiful reef scene in Myanmar water
​At Bawei, also called Rainbow Rock, the vibrant coral formations were alive with activity. Our night dive here revealed a fascinating array of nocturnal creatures, including tiny pygmy squid, Glossodoris nudibranchs, and agile fibriated moray eels. A massive stonefish lay camouflaged on the reef, while a devil scorpionfish lurked nearby. A lucky few spotted both tiny and medium needle cuttlefish, along with an impressive basket star shrimp and a striking blue dragon nudibranch.

Day 2: Three Islets & Khun Pi Law Village Visit

​Our first dive at Three Islets, known as Square, provided exceptional visibility, revealing tigertail seahorses clinging to sea fans and a bustling school of yellowstripe trevally. Marble rays cruised gracefully along the seabed, while orange-spotted pipefish hid among soft corals. Photographers captured exquisite close-ups of flabellina exoptata and schools of brassy and golden trevally.
day octopus in the Andaman Sea
diving with Snappers in Burma
​At Shark Cave, sergeant major fish were fiercely defending their eggs from opportunistic wrasses. Banded stick pipefish and vibrant nudibranchs decorated the reef, while baby blacktip fusiliers darted through the water in synchronized movements.
Submarine, our third dive site, was alive with energy. Schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and blue-and-gold fusiliers filled the water column. A bamboo shark rested under a rocky ledge, and a curious ornate ghost pipefish hovered nearby.
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In the late afternoon, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque island with white sandy beaches and a serene Buddha temple. The night dive here did not disappoint—giant sweetlips hovered near the reef, ghost pipefish floated elegantly, and Chromodoris geminus nudibranchs illuminated the night.

Day 3: North Twin Pinnacle & North Twin Ree

​Our first two dives at North Twin Pinnacle featured schools of barracuda, yellow-lined fusiliers, and Risbecia pulchella nudibranchs. Partner shrimps hid among anemones, while giant moray eels watched divers curiously. A majestic eagle ray glided past, and Kuhl’s blue-spotted stingrays rested on sandy patches.
Soft coral is super healthy in Mergui Archipelago
two eagl rays gliding above colourful soft coral
​At North Twin Reef, the late afternoon and sunset dives were calm but teeming with life. Large schools of yellowback and mainlined fusiliers dominated the scene, along with batfish and sweetlips near the coral bommies. Octopuses displayed their shape-shifting abilities, while giant coral tables formed a breathtaking underwater landscape.
North Twin in Myanmar
school of batfish in Mergui islands

Day 4: Arrival at Burma Banks – Row Bank & Rainbow Bank

​Our much-anticipated arrival at Burma Banks brought exciting encounters. At Row Bank, nurse sharks glided effortlessly through the currents, while a striking pair of Napoleon wrasses—male and female—patrolled the reef. Schools of silver sweetlips, black-and-white snappers, and scisortail fusiliers surrounded us. The highlight of the day? A marlin leaping at the surface near the boat!
Rainbow Bank’s third dive delivered an incredible tornado of bigeye trevally, complemented by massive marble rays and another nurse shark sighting. The sunset dive was equally thrilling, featuring honeycomb moray eels and giant sweetlips mingling with snappers.
Some divers opted for a blackwater dive instead, exploring the mysterious depths beyond the reef, discovering translucent larval fish, delicate jelly creatures, and fascinating drifters such as sea elephants, sea angels, tongue fish, isopods, and purpleback squid drifting in the open ocean."
shrimp photogrpahed on a blackwater dive
honeycomb moray in Myanmar
elephant blackwater subject
school of butterflyfish at the Burma banks
​Franck was lucky to photograph a stunning Leopard Blenny (Exallias brevis), a photogenic yet elusive fish. With its freckled pattern and a size reaching up to 15 cm, this little beauty blends seamlessly into its surroundings, making it a challenging but rewarding subject for underwater photographers. Typically found hiding among the branches of Acropora, Pocillopora, and Porites corals, the Leopard Blenny is known for its skittish nature, darting away at the slightest disturbance. Capturing it on camera required patience, but the results were well worth the effort!"
leopard blenny
surgeonfish in myanmar

Day 5: Coral Bank & Silvertip Ban

The first two dives at Coral Bank featured an abundance of nurse sharks, a majestic mangrove whipray, and dense schools of fusiliers, surgeonfish, and potato groupers. A longnose emperor made a dramatic appearance, hunting an octopus in the sand.
Bannerfish in front of barrel sponge
burma banks has a healthy population of nurse sharks
nurse shark in burma banks
​At Silvertip Bank, the highlight was a spectacular school of fusiliers swirling around the reef, alongside marble rays and a visiting Napoleon wrasse. We also encountered triggerfish, nurse sharks, damsels, and groupers hiding within coral crevices.

Day 6: Seafan Forest, Eagle Rock & Western Rocky Cave

​Seafan Forest offered fantastic visibility, revealing swarms of baby lined fusiliers and mating Pharaoh cuttlefish. Divers were thrilled to spot stonefish and tigertail seahorses among the sea fans.
At Eagle Rock, we encountered yellowtail barracuda, a mesmerizing school of batfish, and the always-popular Pikachu nudibranch. Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef, and fimbriated moray eels peeked from their hiding spots.
Our final dive at Western Rocky Cave introduced us to pufferfish, twinstripe fusiliers, and damsels tending to their eggs—an intimate moment of underwater life.
mating time for cuttlefish in Mergui
Western Rocky, Myanmar dive site
Seafan Forest
picacchu nudibranch in the Andaman Sea
soft coral in Myanmar
stone fish in Mergui
myanma'rs squat shrimp

Day 7: A Grand Finale at Dendro’s Pinnacl

​Our last dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle blessed us with incredible visibility. Schools of five-line snappers, gold giant trevally, and yellowtail barracuda surrounded the site. Stonefish lurked motionless, while vibrant nudibranchs—Chromodoris annulata and Chromodoris reticulata—crawled along the reef. The finale was a tiny orange-spotted pipefish, a true delight for macro enthusiasts.
pretty nudibranch
anulatus nudibranch
​With our tanks emptied and our hearts full, we bid farewell to the Burma Banks and the Mergui Archipelago, already dreaming of our next adventure.
Fun time onboard The Smiling seahorse group photo
Stay tuned for more dive stories from the Andaman Sea!
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    ​The Smiling Seahorse has been running dive cruises from Ranong since 2012.
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