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Trip report: Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks 14th – 21st December 2025

5/1/2026

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Picture

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

​We left Ranong’s Badin Pier after clearing Thai immigration, welcoming guests from France, Greece, Germany, USA, Malaysia, Singapore, Belgium, Ireland, and Italy. After a smooth Burmese immigration process in Kawthung, the Smiling Seahorse headed north into the Mergui Archipelago, a remote labyrinth of jungle-covered islands, quiet bays, and rarely visited reefs where diving still feels like exploration.
Kawthung, Myanmar
The Smiling Seahorse, Myanmar liveboard
Beautiful Mergui Archipelago Island
Moken fishing boat, Mergui Archipelago

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs
​

​Our check dive and second dive took place at South Twin Reef, easing everyone back into the water with a mix of macro and reef life. Flabellina and Chromodoris annulata covered the walls, while squat shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps shared space with peacock mantis shrimps. Schools of lined surgeonfish and ringtail surgeonfish cruised over the reef, joined by neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers. Dogtooth tuna patrolled the blue, giant moray eels peeked from the rocks, and batfish hovered calmly nearby, while tiny juvenile anemonefish added delicate flashes of pink.
Dive three brought us to North Twin Reef, where octopus activity was high, giant moray eels dominated the crevices, and Chromodoris annulata appeared again along the reef. A few coral groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, and titan triggerfish completed the scene.
The night dive in North Twin Bay was pure atmosphere. Curious octopus, squids, jellyfish sheltering tiny fish, big red reef crabs, scorpionfish, and bar-tail moray eels filled the darkness. Parrotfish and triggerfish were found sleeping, firmly wedged into the rock, their trigger spine locked in place to keep predators at bay, a perfect example of reef survival after sunset.
ringed nudibranch, Goniobranchus annulatus, Andaman liveaboard
Day octopus, Andaman Sea Liveaboard
squat shrimps, Mergui Archipelago liveaboard
ringed nudibranch (Goniobranchus annulatus) Andaman Sea liveaboard
scorpionfish well camouflaged, Andaman Sea liveaboard
Fimbriated moray (Gymnothorax fimbriatus) Andaman Sea liveaboard

Day 3 – Black Rock
​

​We spent the full day at Black Rock, a dramatic offshore pinnacle where deep water, currents, and open ocean life constantly rewrite the dive plan. Morning dives were rewarded with curious oceanic manta rays circling above the reef, accompanied by schools of chevron barracuda, blacktip trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies, and bigeye trevallies. Great barracuda, giant moray eels, yellow-edged moray eels, and shy batfish added to the excitement, while coral groupers, peacock groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, and velvet surgeonfish filled the reef.
Macro life was everywhere, with anemone crabs, cleaner shrimps, squat shrimps, bearded scorpionfish, and colorful nudibranchs. Neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers formed dense clouds around the pinnacle, constantly shifting with the current.
The night dive revealed a different Black Rock, with pygmy squid hunting shrimps, devil scorpionfish, bar-tail moray eels, sleeping parrotfish, rabbitfish, and a stunning collection of cowries including tiger cowrie, money cowrie, and mole cowrie, along with basket stars and sea cucumbers carpeting the reef.
bigeye trevally (Caranx sexfasciatus) Andaman Sea liveaboard
yellow snappers, Andaman Sea liveaboard
orange cup coral, possibly a Tubastraea species
bigeye scad (Selar crumenophthalmus) Andaman Sea Liveaboard
lionfish in Mergui Archipelago, Amdaman Sea liveaboard
sea urshin, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Day 4 – Three Islets & Sailing to the Burma Banks
​

​We explored Three Islets, diving Submarine, Shark Cave, and Square. At Submarine, bamboo sharks rested calmly while cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish hovered above the reef. Schools of neon fusiliers, yellowback fusiliers, slender fusiliers, and twin stripe fusiliers mixed with chevron barracuda and passing trevallies including giant trevally, bluefin trevally, and golden trevally. A cobia hid among rainbow runners, while wahoo and mackerel cut through the blue. One lucky group even witnessed a whale shark cruising through the main channel.

​Shark Cave delivered classic scenes of tomato anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish guarding their eggs, anemone crabs, white-eye moray eels, schools of fusiliers, and wrasses repeatedly harassing sergeant majors protecting their nests.
At Square, tiger-tail seahorses stole the show alongside orange-spotted pipefish, golden trevallies, yellowtail barracuda, batfish, and spider crabs. The night dive added decorated crabs, sea snakes, cone snails, gorgonian crabs, and glowing nudibranchs to the mix.
After the final dive, we set course west toward the legendary Burma Banks, a remote chain of offshore seamounts rising from deep water and known for shark encounters and wide-open pelagic scenery.
Burma Banks underwater scenery, Andaman Sea liveaboard
Anemone and beautiful red soft coral, Andaman Sea liveaboard
Tiger tail seahorse, Andaman Sea liveaboard
Juvenile wrasse in mergui archipelago, Andaman Sea liveaboard
Stonefish, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Day 5 – Burma Banks
​

​At Row Bank, adult and juvenile nurse sharks dominated the dives, cruising effortlessly above sandy slopes. Powder-blue surgeonfish and lined surgeonfish moved across the reef alongside oriental sweetlips and two-spot butterflyfish. Around the coral heads, coral groupers and peacock groupers patrolled calmly, while cleaner wrasse and sixline wrasse stayed busy at their stations. Between the rocks, leopard blennies and fang blennies popped in and out, joined by flashes of royal dottybacks adding color to the shadows.
At Rainbow Bank, the scene remained wide open and shark-filled, with more nurse sharks gliding past mangrove snappers and schools of humpback unicornfish and sleek unicornfish. The reef itself was alive with pastel ringwrasse, moon wrasse, and African coris sweeping over the bottom, while chalk bass and royal dottybacks hovered close to the structure. Tiny blennies guarded their holes as blue and gold fusiliers streamed overhead.
The final two dives at Coral Bank brought white-tip reef shark into the mix, accompanied by powder-blue surgeonfish, epaulette surgeonfish, and golden rabbitfish grazing along the reef. The smaller life stole the show here, with cleaner wrasse, blackear wrasse, dragon wrasse, leopard blennies, chalk bass, royal dottybacks, and juvenile damselfish filling every crevice, turning these quieter dives into beautifully detailed reef explorations.
Blenny fish in his hole,
barrel sponge (Xestospongia muta), Andaman Sea liveaboard
juvenile Emperor Angelfish (Pomacanthus imperator) Andaman Sea liveaboard
Diver freeing a scorpion fish from a ghost net, Andaman Sea liveaboard
Epidendrium billeeanum, commonly known as the yellow sea snail
Yellow sea snails eating a yellow cup coral to replace it with its eggs. Egg mass visible on the lower right corner.
Batfish in the blue... Mergui Archipelago

Day 6 – Burma Banks next

​Three dives at Silvertip Bank delivered classic big-bank scenery with nurse sharks, silvertip reef sharks, bigeye emperors, powder-blue surgeonfish, lined surgeonfish, and humpback unicornfish cruising above the reef. Macro highlights included nudibranchs and a tapestry shrimp hiding inside a giant clam, while mappa pufferfish drifted lazily by.
The evening ended with a blackwater dive, revealing larval flounder, larval mantis shrimp, post-larval porcupinefish, flying fish larvae, pencil squid, purple-back squid, larval anemones, siphonophores, comb jellies, and clouds of drifting plankton glowing in the darkness.
sea butterfly, Andaman Sea liveaboard
post-larval porcupinefish, Andaman Sea liveaboard
flying fish larvae, Andaman Sea liveaboard
siphonophore, blackwater diving
a comb jelly, likely the species Mnemiopsis leidyi,
Blackwater fish, andaman Sea liveaboard

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky
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​At Sea Fan Forest, giant purple soft corals and towering sea fans framed stonefish, sleeping giant moray eels, rainbow runners, and schools of neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers. The reef was alive with coral groupers, peacock groupers, wrasses, blennies, parrotfish, and triggerfish weaving through the coral forest.
The second dive turned into a true team effort as most divers joined a successful ghost net removal, freeing the reef from a massive abandoned net.
The afternoon and sunset dives at Western Rocky, covering the Islets, the Cave, and Eagle’s Rock, delivered schools of trevallies, fusiliers, yellowtail barracuda, lionfish, scorpionfish, titan triggerfish, ghost pipefish, giant moray eels, harlequin shrimps, and a spectacular Glossodoris cincta laying eggs. The day ended with our traditional BBQ and boat party under the stars.
Gorgonian seafan, Mergui Archipelago
Titan triggerfish, Andaman Sea liveaboard
Ghost pipefish, Myanmar liveaboard
Harlequin Shrimp, Andaman Sea liveaboard
pharaoh cuttlefish, liveaboard myanmar

Day 8 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell
​

​Our final dive took place at Dendro’s Peak, where pharaoh cuttlefish, giant moray eels, Clark’s anemonefish, schools of rainbow runners, bluefin trevallies, neon fusiliers, and yellowback fusiliers provided a perfect farewell.
We then headed back to Kawthung for Burmese immigration, shared a last beer at the Smile Bar, and returned to Ranong, closing another unforgettable Mergui and Burma Banks adventure aboard the Smiling Seahorse.
Sunset on Burma Banks, Andaman Sea liveaboard
Happy guest on the MV Smiling seahorse
Cheers! Onboard, MV Smiling Seahorse
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Trip Report: Mergui and Burma Banks - Special Blackwater Trip - 5th - 12th December 2025

19/12/2025

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Squid Blackwater Diving Myanmar Liveaboard

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago
​

​We departed Ranong’s Badin Pier after clearing Thai immigration, welcoming guests from Switzerland, France, Canada, the USA, Australia, Austria, the Netherlands, Macau, New Zealand, and Belgium. After a smooth Burmese immigration process in Kawthung, we set sail north through the Mergui Archipelago, a vast maze of untouched islands, mangroves, and reefs where nature still sets the rhythm.
island temple myanmar liveaboard
black rock mergui archipelago myanmar liveaboard

Day 2 – Twin Reefs & First Blackwater
​

Our first dive at South Twin Reef eased everyone into the trip. Gold-saddle rabbitfish cruised above the reef while longbarbel goatfish sifted through the sand. Vagabond and Meyer’s butterflyfish fluttered around coral heads, joined by batfish and an octopus tucked safely into its den. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers streamed past checkered and five-lined snappers, while coral groupers and ringtail surgeonfish patrolled the hard coral slopes. Cleaner wrasses darted between passing fish, completing the scene.

Dives two and three at North Twin Reef brought more action. Blackfin barracudas formed tight schools in the blue, cuttlefish hovered above the reef, and scorpionfish blended perfectly into the background. Bicolor parrotfish grazed noisily, lionfish hovered motionless, and tiny gobies and blennies peeked out from coral cracks as moon wrasses and sixline wrasses zigzagged through the reef.
​
As night fell, we launched our first blackwater dive, and it delivered instant magic. A marlin appeared out of the darkness, hunting right along the dive line. Sleeper lobsters drifted by clutching salps, spearing mantis shrimps flashed their raptorial arms, and jellyfish, comb jellies, and larvaceans filled the water column. Larval flounders, sea butterflies, crab larvae, flying squid, mahi-mahi, golden trevallies, and even a wandering moray eel made this an unforgettable first plunge into the deep pelagic night.
fish on whip coral myanmar liveaboard
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larval fish blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
seahorse blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
squid blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
seahorse blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
larval shrimp blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
larval fish blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
fish on whip coral myanmar liveaboard

Day 3 – Black Rock: Giants and Night Lights
​

​We spent the entire day at Black Rock, one of the jewels of the Mergui Archipelago. Rising steeply from the depths, this exposed seamount is famous for big fish, strong currents, and surprises.

Dives one, two, and three were blessed with oceanic Manta rays gliding effortlessly around the divers, looping back again and again as if curious. Great barracudas, cobias, and massive schools of blackfin barracudas filled the blue, while yellowback and neon fusiliers shimmered around the rock. Chromodoris nudibranchs added color to the reef, octopuses hid among the boulders, and schools of jacks surged past. Among them swam schools of giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies, and bigeye trevallies, with the golden trevallies appearing to be in full mating display. A school of blacktip trevallies (Caranx heberi), an unusual sight, swept past the reef.”

The sunset dive revealed a different world. Clark’s anemonefish guarded their eggs fiercely, surrounded by anemone crabs, squat shrimps, marble shrimps, and banded boxer shrimps. Octopuses crept across the reef, Durban dancing shrimps waved from crevices, schools of black surgeonfish passed by, and African pompano cruised through the fading light. Porcupinefish, map puffers, bullet head parrotfish, and powder-blue surgeonfish rounded off the scene.
​
Some divers opted for another blackwater dive, encountering pelagic seahorses, larval tuna, pencil squid, larval triggerfish, mini jacks sheltering inside salps, and post-larval African pompano drifting silently through the darkness.
manta ray myanmar liveaboard
nudibranch myanmar liveaboard
manta ray myanmar liveaboard
coral reef mergui archipelago myanmar liveaboard
Giant oceanic Manta ray myanmar liveaboard
coral reef mergui archipelago myanmar liveaboard

Day 4 – Three Islets to the Burma Banks
​

We explored Three Islets, diving between Shark Cave, Submarine, and Square.
At Submarine, a bamboo shark rested under an overhang while cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish hovered nearby. Blue-spotted ribbontail rays glided across the sand, batfish cruised by, and the reef came alive with moon wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, yellowback fusiliers, damselfish, and map puffers.

Shark Cave revealed tomato and Clark’s anemonefish guarding their homes, anemone crabs waving from their tentacles, and white-eye moray eels peering from the shadows. Wrasses repeatedly attacked sergeant majors guarding their eggs, while schools of golden trevallies, yellow-lined fusiliers, and even a passing wahoo added excitement.
​
At Square, we found tiger-tail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, yellowtail barracudas, giant trevallies hiding in cracks, golden trevallies, and batfish drifting calmly in the blue.
After the final dive, we set sail west toward the Burma Banks, a remote chain of offshore seamounts rising abruptly from deep water, known for big sharks, strong currents, and true blue-water diving.
batfish myanmar liveaboard
seahorse myanmar liveaboard
fish on sponge myanmar liveaboard
pipefish myanmar liveaboard
reef fish myanmar liveaboard
stonefish myanmar liveaboard

Day 5 – Row Bank and a Change of Plans
​

Our first dive at Row Bank delivered classic Burma Banks scenery. Adult and juvenile nurse sharks rested on the sand, ringtail and epaulette surgeonfish grazed nearby, and honeycomb moray eels peeked from coral heads. Golden rabbitfish, two-spot butterflyfish, and oriental sweetlips mingled with small coral groupers, cleaner wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, juvenile angelfish, and cleaning shrimps.
​
After the dive, the weather began to build. For safety reasons, we made the decision to leave the banks early and head back toward the shelter of the Mergui Archipelago. Spirits stayed high onboard, with time to relax, review photos, and enjoy the ride back through calmer waters.
shrimp myanmar liveaboard
marble ray myanmar liveaboard
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marble ray myanmar liveaboard
Picture
seahorse myanmar liveaboard

Day 6 – Western Rocky & Sea Fan Forest
​

Back at Western Rocky, the first two dives at the Cave and Eagle’s Rock offered rich macro life. Octopuses, harlequin shrimps, Spanish mackerel, Bornella nudibranchs, twin chromodoris, and colorful soft corals filled the walls. Schools of snapper and fusiliers passed by, while butterflyfish, angelfish, wrasses, and damselfish kept the reef buzzing.

The third dive and sunset at Sea Fan Forest brought cuttlefish, stonefish, octopuses, blacktail barracudas, and flowing schools of neon and yellowback fusiliers. Coral groupers, moon wrasses, parrotfish, butterflyfish, triggerfish, and clouds of damselfish swirled around the massive sea fans.

coral reef myanmar liveaboard
anemone myanmar liveaboard
octopus myanmar liveaboard
manta over reef myanmar liveaboard
​​​
That night, some divers slipped back into the dark for another blackwater dive, encountering sea snakes, salps, crab larvae, snapper larvae, cornetfish larvae, paper nautilus octopuses, sleeper lobsters, mantis shrimps, amphipods, and countless drifting creatures carried by the current.
blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard
blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard

Day 7 – Western Rocky in Full
​

An early morning dive at Sea Fan Forest set the tone for the day. Cuttlefish hovered over the reef, stonefish lay perfectly camouflaged on the bottom, and octopuses moved between coral heads. Peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows while yellow and brown trumpetfish drifted vertically along the sea fans. Red lionfish and clearfin lionfish hunted in the shadows, joined by devil scorpionfish resting motionless. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers streamed past, accompanied by lunar wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, and clouds of blue-green chromis.
We then returned to Western Rocky for three rich dives.

At the Cave, ghost pipefish swayed gently next to the wall, while blunt decorator crabs, white-spotted hermit crabs, and cleaning shrimps occupied every ledge. Giant moray eels watched from deep inside the cave, sharing the space with honeycomb moray eels. Nudibranchs such as leopard chromodoris and blue dragons added color, while Moorish idols cruised slowly past. The reef was busy with porcupinefish, map puffers, clown triggerfish, blueface angelfish, emperor angelfish, raccoon butterflyfish, and threadfin butterflyfish weaving through the coral.

At Eagle Rock, the action moved into the blue. Spanish mackerel cut through schools of jacks, including giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, and bigeye trevallies. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers wrapped the rock, mixed with five-lined snappers and yellow-lined snappers. Devil scorpionfish sat patiently on the bottom while several octopuses were spotted mating in the shallows. The reef itself was alive with moon wrasses, sixline wrasses, damselfish, skunk anemonefish, Clark’s anemonefish, coral groupers, honeycomb groupers, blennies peeking from holes, angelfish, butterflyfish, and triggerfish cruising between boulders.
​
The final dive at the Islets was a macro lover’s dream. Harlequin shrimps danced on sea stars, twin chromodoris and blue dragons crawled across the reef, and pipefish hovered close to soft corals. Around them swam a colorful mix of damselfish, fairy wrasses, parrotfish, butterflyfish, juvenile angelfish, rabbitfish, and small snappers, bringing the day to a perfect close.
harlequin shrimp myanmar liveaboard
cuttlefish coral reef myanmar liveaboard
reef fish myanmar liveaboard
cowfish myanmar liveaboard
reef fish myanmar liveaboard
school of fish myanmar liveaboard

Day 8 – Dendro’s Peak and Farewell
​

Our last dive of the trip took place at Dendro’s Peak, and it delivered a spectacular finale. Two giant marble rays glided effortlessly above the reef, while cuttlefish were seen mating on the top of the pinnacle, the male flashing intense patterns and colors to protect his female from rivals. Large schools of jacks and mackerel swept through the blue, joined by giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, and golden trevallies. Yellowback and neon fusiliers formed dense clouds over the reef, constantly on the move.

On the reef itself, bird wrasses, moon wrasses, and sixline wrasses darted between coral heads, while coral groupers and honeycomb groupers patrolled their territories. Bullethead parrotfish and bicolor parrotfish grazed noisily, surrounded by damselfish guarding their nests. Skunk anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish hovered above their anemones, and triggerfish cruised past, including yellow-margin triggerfish and titan triggerfish.
​
After surfacing, we set course back toward Kawthung for Burmese immigration, shared a final goodbye beer onboard, and finally returned to Ranong to re-enter Thailand. A fitting end to an intense and unforgettable journey through the Mergui Archipelago, the Burma Banks, and the deep pelagic world of blackwater diving.
sunset boat myanmar liveaboard
happy people myanmar liveaboard
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Trip Report Wonderful North Andaman from the 28th November to the 3rd December

6/12/2025

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trip report November 2025, Liveaboard Boat At Sunset Thailand Liveaboard
​Our last trip of November began beautifully at Tap Lamu Pier, where we welcomed a lovely international group from the USA, Australia, Canada, and China. Smiles, excitement, and dive bags loaded — we set sail toward the legendary Similan National Park, ready for a week of granite giants, lush reefs, and pelagic encounters.

Day 2 — Similan National Park

​Check Dive — West of Eden (Island 7)
The season opened gracefully: the reef was alive with movement, as schools of neon fusiliers, twinstripe fusiliers, yellowback fusiliers, and five-lined snappers flowed around the bommies like a perfectly timed ballet.
Bluefin trevallies, a massive giant trevally, and a sleek dogtooth tuna patrolled the edges while adult black-and-white snappers, oriental sweetlips, and a giant one-spot snapper added structure to the scene.
Down in the sand, a spirit mantis shrimp peeked from its burrow, surrounded by eager squat shrimps, while a banded seasnake weaved around the corals. A relaxed hawksbill turtle joined us mid-dive, followed by a charismatic octopus and a picture-perfect clown triggerfish.
A spectacular start.
Hawkbill turtle
Hawkbill turtle (photo from a previous trip)
Picture
Boxfish
Dive 2 — Elephant Head Rock
The underwater maze delivered its usual magic: harlequin sweetlips, elegant three-spot angelfish, curious coral groupers, and thick-bodied giant morays.
A scribbled filefish hovered among the boulders, while adult yellow cube-boxfish, blue-spotted puffers, and a hefty porcupinefish wandered peacefully.
Pelagic action was constant with giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, and dogtooth tuna cutting through the blue.
Among the reef, colorful wrasses, dust-blue surgeonfish, and crunching parrotfish added all the texture you'd expect from a prime Andaman reef.
After lunch, we visited the iconic beach and viewpoint of Donald Duck Bay on Island 8 — a postcard of granite boulders, white sand, and turquoise pools.
Dive 3 — Three Trees
Soft sand, rich bommies, and life everywhere.
Garden eels rose and sank gracefully in the current, a blue-spotted Kuhl’s ray glided over the bottom, and schools of bluelined snappers, rabbitfish, and yellow goatfish swirled around the coral heads.
The hard coral formations here are beautiful — rounded boulders topped with staghorn, pore corals, table corals, and tiny damselfish, triggerfish, wrasses, and unicornfish dancing above them.
Longfin Batfish Thailand Liveaboard
Night Dive — Koh Bon
Lights on — and the reef woke up. 
​

Octopuses displayed all their colors, big red crabs patrolled the rocks, and a massive giant moray hunted boldly out in the open.
A sleepy bicolor parrotfish tucked itself between two rocks, while yellowback fusiliers played in the beams. Close to the bottom we found marble shrimps, tiny spider crabs, and the ever-entertaining Durban dancing shrimps.

Video: Decorator Spider crab and hairy Hermit Crab scuttling across the reef

Day 3 — Koh Bon & Koh Tachai

Dive 1 — Koh Bon Pinnacle & North Ridge
A beautiful morning with banded seasnakes twisting through the corals, scorpionfish blending into the structure, and mackerel explosions over glassfish clouds.
A huge marble grouper lounged on the ridge near a shining giant clam.
Schools of barracudas, batfish, yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers, and a cast of coral groupers, Clark’s anemonefish, and tiny wrasses added color to the soft yellow, blue, and pink corals covering the area.

Dive 2 — Koh Bon West Ridge
Pelagics everywhere: giant trevallies, shimmering rainbow runners, and a curious giant moray.
Around the bommies: groupers, surgeonfish, tiny blennies, and damsels darting between the hard corals.
Clark’s anemonefish swayed in their soft hosts while cleaner pipefish zipped around.
Freckled Hawkfish Coral Reef Thailand Liveaboard
Ceratosoma Trilobatum Nudibranch Thailand Liveaboard
Dive 3 — Koh Tachai Pinnacle
Action-packed as always.
We were greeted by giant marble groupers, clouds of bluefin trevallies, powerful godtooth tunas (the local spelling fun continues!), and a tornado of barracudas.
Schools of yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers, and bluelined snappers danced over the rocks.
Hidden between coral blocks we found lobsters, giant morays, batfish, diamond-shaped unicornfish, bigeye emperors, curious goatfish, and plenty of colorful angelfish, butterflyfish, wrasses, parrotfish, and surgeonfish.

Dive 4 — Tachai Reef or Blackwater
Tachai Reef offered a peaceful end to the day with checkered snappers, shy octopus, bridled monocle bream, Indo-Pacific sergeant, morrish idol, powder-blue surgeonfish, striped surgeonfish, Indian sailfin tang, golden rabbitfish, and a thrilling moment with two blacktip reef sharks hunting fusiliers in the shallows.
Scuba Diver Sunset Thailand Liveaboard
Orange Spotted Emperor fish Thailand Liveaboard
Blackwater Dive (off Koh Tachai)
A galaxy in motion: larval anemonefish, stargazers, eel larvae, pyrosomes, siphonophores, venus girdles, comb jellies, larval crabs, and larval triggerfish floating through the dark. Hypnotic. (photos below from a previous trip as out photographer was out of the water this week).
Squid Blackwater Diving Thailand Liveaboard
Pelagic Juvenile Fish Blackwater Diving Thailand Liveaboard
Squid Blackwater Diving Thailand Liveaboard
Larval Shrimp Blackwater Diving Thailand Liveaboard

Day 4 & 5 — Richelieu Rock (Surin National Park)

The jewel of the Andaman, discovered by a Danish admiral of the same name — not the French cardinal!
Richelieu greeted us with purple soft corals swaying in the current, clouds of life pulsing around the horseshoe-shaped reef, and visibility that kept changing but always rewarded patience.
Picture
Picture
The reef was buzzing:
Octopus, elegant harlequin shrimps, a beautiful black-and-yellow ribbon eel, Chromodoris risbecia pulchella, blue dragons, and bright purple flabellinas.
Pelagic visitors included cobias, pickhandle barracudas, yellowtail barracudas, and « the gang » — the longnose emperors teaming up with rainbow runners and several species of trevallies (bluefin, giant, bigeye, golden…).
A courtship of golden trevallies was the highlight of the afternoon.
The clouds of life around the rock were incredible: yellowback fusiliers, two-spot snappers, twinstripe fusiliers, longfin snappers, and more — everything swirling through the soft coral fingers.
The night dive revealed hunting morays, crabs on the move, sleeping parrotfish, and surreal colors in the torch beams.

Four more dives full of action: endless trevallies, rainbow runners, fusilier storms, lovingly posing harlequin shrimps, macro critters hiding in soft corals, and the iconic purple landscape of Richelieu glowing in the morning sun.
Giant Trevally Richelieu Rock, Thailand Liveaboard
Mantis Shrimp Thailand Liveaboard

Day 6 – Richelieu Rock Farewell & Return to Ranong

​For our final day, the ocean treated us to two beautiful morning dives at Richelieu Rock, its horseshoe-shaped reef once again buzzing with life. The soft purple corals were blooming in the current, glassfish shimmering over the pinnacles, and clouds of trevallies hunting in perfect coordination. A curious banded sea snake weaved through the sea fans, and our divers enjoyed long, colorful drifts through schools of rainbow runners and oriental sweetlips.
After these last immersive moments in Thailand’s most iconic site, we began our smooth cruise south toward Ranong. On the way, we made a quick stop at Koh Payam to drop off one of our guests—an unexpected but pleasant pause in this peaceful island paradise—before continuing back toward the pier, watching the sun lower itself behind the Andaman Sea.
 
We wrapped up the day with a calm sunset and a wonderful BBQ in Surin Bay, sharing stories under a sky full of stars.
Giant Trevallies hunt in a school of tiny bait fish 
Picture

A fantastic end to our Surin and Similan Liveaboard cruise

​Another beautiful trip filled with great dives, wonderful guests, and an ocean full of surprises — from tiny flabellinas to hunting trevallies.
Thank you to everyone on board for bringing such great energy and for the photos illustrating this blogpost!
​We can’t wait to have you back onboard for new ocean adventures!
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Trip Report: South & North Andaman — 19th to 26th November 2025

27/11/2025

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Leopard Shark Thailand Liveaboard
​Our new diving season began with a wonderfully international group joining us at Chok Thaeworn Pier in Phuket. Divers arrived from Switzerland, France, Holland, Belgium, Taiwan, Australia, Saudi Arabia, and Canada — including our special guest and paparazza Katie, already armed with her camera. With everyone settled in aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, we started our southbound journey toward the crystalline waters of the Koh Lanta National Park and the remote pinnacle of Hin Muang.

Day 1 — Koh Haa & Hin Muang

​Koh Lanta National Park — turquoise lagoons & dramatic limestone formations

Koh Lanta National Park is known for its sheltered lagoons, underwater caverns, and vibrant coral slopes, making it a perfect starting point for our first dives of the season. Our check dive at Koh Haa set the tone, with chromodoris annulata and chromodoris kuniei decorating the reef like tiny jewels. Coral groupers hovered above bommies as juvenile angelfish and juvenile clown triggerfish darted around. Schools of yellowback fusiliers moved in waves alongside snappers and mackerels, while golden trevallies flashed past in hunting formation. A great barracuda cruised by, and a yellow-margin triggerfish paused at a cleaning station surrounded by busy wrasses and partner shrimps. Dusky damselfish, flutemouths and curious butterflyfish added movement and colour to the scene.

We continued south to Hin Muang for a spectacular wide-blue dive blessed with excellent visibility. Schools of batfish followed us down the wall where giant, bluefin and white-tongue trevallies patrolled the deep. Longnose emperors glided over purple-red soft corals, yellow boxfish played hide-and-seek around ledges, and a fimbriated moray eel peeked out from a crack. Rainbow runners flickered past like silver missiles while dogtooth tunas circled in the blue. A wandering octopus inspected our group before disappearing into the reef, and a white bent-stick pipefish blended perfectly with the soft coral background. Wrasses, anthias and red-toothed triggerfish filled every corner of the reef.
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Our final dives of the day took place at Koh Rok Ridge, where porcupinefish of every pattern — false-eye, blue-spotted, black-spotted and fine-spotted — hovered curiously. Blue-legged boxer shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps were busy in the crevices of the giant barrel sponges, one of which hid a massive giant moray eel. Yellowback fusiliers, yellow-lined snappers and giant trevallies passed in numbers, while anemonefish guarded their shimmering homes and hawkfish perched proudly on coral heads.

The night dive revealed an entirely different world. Giant hermit crabs marched across the sand, cleaning shrimps wiggled within the shadows of barrel sponges and delicate flabellinas crawled over the reef. Big red crabs explored the rocks, bubble corals sheltered tiny squat shrimps, parrotfish slept in their mucus cocoons and several triggerfish wedged themselves safely into cracks. A scribbled filefish drifted slowly through the torch beams while cardinalfish and soldierfish hovered along the walls.
Giant Moray Eel Thailand Liveaboard
Scuba Diver Hovers Over Coral Reef Thailand Liveaboard
colourful reef fish thailand liveaboard
Soft Corals Thailand Liveaboard

Day 2 — Koh Haa, Koh Lanta National Park

We began again at Koh Haa Yai, the famous “Cathedral,” where the large caverns glowed with natural light. Cleaner pipefish hovered above sandy patches, yellow boxfish zig-zagged between boulders, and golden trevallies cruised through shoals of rabbitfish. Hermit crabs roamed along the rocky edges, tiger cowries shimmered on the walls, and Moorish idols danced gracefully in pairs. Surgeonfish, fairy wrasses and angelfish of all sizes added movement around the cathedral arches while another yellow-margin triggerfish watched us pass with suspicion.

Koh Haa Lagoon offered calm, crystal-clear water between islands 2 and 4. A giant moray eel and a yellow-edge moray eel shared the same patch of reef while Durban dancing shrimps and partner shrimps worked tirelessly at cleaning stations. Garden eels swayed like tall grass on the sandy bottom, convict blennies formed tight black-and-white tornadoes, and a red-marbled lizardfish watched for prey. Bearded scorpionfish lay perfectly still, and yellowfin soldiers hovered above the rocks. Two dogtooth tunas patrolled the perimeter while giant trevallies and juvenile emperor angelfish added flashes of yellow and blue. Wrasses, anthias, parrotfish and goatfish swirled across the lagoon.

At Koh Haa Chimney, we descended through the famous vertical tunnel before circling the large boulders outside. Yellow-lined snappers formed dense clouds, neon fusiliers streaked through the blue, and giant trevallies and dogtooth tunas swept along the deeper edges. A giant coral grouper patrolled the sandy bottom, and a proud peacock mantis shrimp marched boldly along the wall. Inside the entrance cave, nudibranchs glossodoris cincta and bornella anguilla decorated the rock while a graceful young banded sea snake hunted in the shallow 3-meter water as we finished the dive.
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Our sunset dive at Koh Haa Yai Reef was magical, with schools of Moorish idols, lined surgeonfish and copperband butterflyfish gliding above healthy hard corals and vibrant sea fans. Branching acropora, mushroom corals and large plate corals created perfect backdrops as the day slowly shifted into dusk.
Scuba Diver in Swim Through with Fan Thailand Liveaboard
Peacock Mantis Shrimp Thailand Liveaboard
School of Fusiliers Thailand Liveaboard
Juvenile Angelfish Thailand Liveaboard

Day 3 — Entering Phi Phi National Park

A protected archipelago known for limestone cliffs, caverns & rich megafauna

Phi Phi National Park welcomed us with its dramatic limestone peaks and nutrient-rich waters.
Our first dive at Koh Bida Nok delivered an abundance of life. We found four tigertail seahorses clinging to sea fans, two banded sea snakes exploring crevices and a massive lobster hiding under a ledge. A beautifully patterned Dermatobranchus ornatus nudibranch crawled across a rock. Blacktip reef sharks glided by, and a resting leopard shark offered a serene moment. Schools of yellow-lined snappers and juvenile silver batfish danced in loose formation.

At Anemone Reef, the pinnacle was fully carpeted with blue, green and pink anemones swaying with the current, home to colourful anemonefish and porcelain crabs. Cometfish hovered above the reef while squids moved in formation. Yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers and yellow-lined snappers circled continuously while a fimbriated moray eel shared a crack with two white-eye morays. A yellow-edge moray eel and a copperband butterflyfish completed the scene.

Shark Point offered yet another highlight with gigantic pickhandle barracudas at a cleaning station, schools of blacktail barracudas, and a pair of pharaoh cuttlefish mating in the shallows. Large barrel sponges and elegant sea fans decorated the ridge. Fimbriated, white-eye and giant moray eels appeared one after another, while copperband butterflyfish played among the soft corals. Wrasses, anthias, damselfish and soft-coral gobies filled every corner of the reef.
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We then began our long navigation north — about 15 hours — following the coastline of Phuket and the Phang Nga region toward the Similan Islands.
Pink Clownfish in Anemone Thailand Liveaboard
Lobster Thailand Liveaboard
Scuba Diver Films School of Snapper Thailand Liveaboard
Mating Pharaoh Cuttlefish Thailand Liveaboard
Scuba Divers with Huge Barrel Sponge Thailand Liveaboard
Banded Sea Krait Thailand Liveaboard

Day 5 — Similan National Park

Nine granitic islands with some of Thailand’s healthiest reefs

After a smooth 12-hour crossing, the iconic boulder landscapes of the Similans appeared on the horizon.
Our first dive at East of Princess Bay (Island 4) took us through Stonehenge, where large slabs of granite formed passageways filled with octopus, giant trevallies and juvenile oriental sweetlips. Lined surgeonfish moved calmly across the reef while peacock mantis shrimps patrolled the sand. Butterflyfish, angelfish, fairy wrasses and juvenile wrasses added colour at every turn.

West of Eden was spectacular with an ovula ovum cowrie mating on a coral head, schools of pennant coralfish weaving between boulders, and both yellowface and bluering angelfish showing off their vibrant colours. African coris and pastel ring-wrasse danced over the hard corals while a white-tip reef shark cruised by, followed closely by five imposing giant trevallies. Blue dragons decorated the coral blocks and a clown triggerfish impressed our divers. Gobies, chromis and small anthias flickered in the light.

At Hideaway, honeycomb groupers, peacock hinds, coral groupers and longface emperors dotted the reef, joined by oriental sweetlips and a mixed school of bluestreak and dory snappers. Durban dancing shrimps cleaned patiently below, while schools of juvenile blackfin barracudas and young bluefin trevallies hunted together with yellow-saddle goatfish.
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The night dive at West of Eden revealed sleeping parrotfish, squirrelfish, soldierfish, hunting morays, long-legged spiny lobsters, glossy nudibranchs and massive moon groupers patrolling the shadows. Cardinalfish, sweepers and nocturnal wrasses reflected the torchlight.
Red Tailed Butterflyfish Thailand Liveaboard
Scuba Diver Behind Coral Covered Rock Wall Thailand Liveaboard

Day 6 — Similan Islands 4, 7 & 8

Honeymoon Bay (Island 4) greeted us with two octopuses mating in the sand channel. Dogtooth tunas circled the reef while cometfish, Durban dancing shrimps and partner shrimps explored the coral heads. A school of black-tail damselfish illuminated the water column, and a bright Halgerda tessellata nudibranch was the star of the macro search.

Back at West of Eden, we encountered another dogtooth tuna, a large green turtle and a small hawksbill turtle. Three more octopuses were spotted, including another mating pair. Leopard blennies peeked from holes while black-veined, dusky and two-coloured parrotfish grazed among the corals. Three-spot angelfish, hermit crabs and banded pipefish added to the action.

Elephant Head Rock delivered its signature swim-throughs, where giant trevallies roamed alongside giant yellow boxfish, porcupinefish, unicorn sweetlips, Andaman sweetlips, six-banded angelfish, rabbitfish, spotted boxfish and map puffers.
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Our sunset dive at Turtle Rock (Island 8) featured brassy drummers, more giant yellow boxfish, black surgeonfish, blackear wrasse, spotted-tail dart gobies, porcelain crabs, marble groupers, coral groupers, tiger cowries and a parade of parrotfish grazing the reef. A pygmy squid darted in and out of view, and an octopus displayed brilliant colors as it hunted among the rocks.
Scuba Diver With Sea Fan Thailand Liveaboard
Four Nudibranches Together on Coral Reef Thailand Liveaboard
Andaman Sweetlips Thailand Liveaboard
Powder Blue Surgeonfish Thailand Liveaboard
Angelfish and Oriental Sweetlips Thailand Liveaboard
Octopus with Coral Reef Thailand Liveaboard
can you spot the 2 octopus?

Day 7 — Island 9 & Beyond

Eagle’s Rock surprised us with beautiful coral bommies and granite formations sheltering giant morays, bluefin trevallies, dogtooth tunas and sail-finned surgeonfish. A tiny juvenile rockmover wrasse danced hypnotically across the sand.

At Donald Duck Bay, we explored the iconic boulders and giant barrel sponges where peacock mantis shrimps peeked out from holes. Dogtooth tunas, bluefin trevallies, giant morays, clownfish, blue dragons, sail-finned surgeons, sea fans, puffers, hawkfish, cometfish and oriental sweetlips kept us entertained. A tiny teardrop butterflyfish juvenile danced near the surface.

Back to Elephant Head Rock for our third dive of the day, we crossed paths with a white-tip reef shark, slender groupers, lizardfish, coral groupers, giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies and huge schools of neon fusiliers lighting up the blue.
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Our blackwater dive was a festival of planktonic life — larval mantis shrimps, long chains of siphonophores, crab larvae, salps carrying tiny fish companions, squids, larval anemones, larval triggerfish, eel larvae, drifting jellyfish and countless shrimp and spreadfish. Even a tiny larval lizardfish appeared under our lights.
Blue Ringed Angelfish Thailand Liveaboard
Pink Clownfish and Anemone Thailand Liveaboard

Day 8 — Final Day: Honeymoon Bay & Boonsung Wreck

Our last morning at Honeymoon Bay was peaceful with a gentle zebra shark resting on the sand. Parrotfish, rabbitfish, wrasses and schools of fusiliers glided calmly above the reef while gobies, blennies and butterflyfish added colour to the shallows.
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Boonsung Wreck, as always, was a fish soup of the highest order. Clouds of juvenile yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers and blue-striped snappers filled every corner while juvenile silver batfish shimmered around the structure. Porcupinefish floated in groups like balloons, honeycomb and white-eye moray eels peeked from the metal plates, pompano hunted through the clouds of fish and big-eye trevallies zig-zagged through the chaos. Chromodoris kuniei and bright Halgerda nudibranchs crawled along the beams as damsels, wrasses and parrotfish weaved through the dense schools.

We surfaced from our final dive tired, happy and already eager for the next adventure, ending our trip at Tap Lamu Pier with big smiles all around.
Leopard Shark Thailand Liveaboard
Scuba Diver with Soft Coral Thailand Liveaboard
Porcupine Fish Thailand Liveaboard
Sweetlips Thailand Liveaboard
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Trip report from the 10th to 17th November 2025, across Myanmar and Thailand

19/11/2025

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November 10th 2025 thailand and myanmar diving trip report
​The MV Smiling Seahorse set off once again for an exceptional cross-border adventure — a journey from Thailand’s Surin & Similan National Parks to Myanmar’s wild Mergui Archipelago. This week we welcomed our wonderful guests from Israel, excited to explore two countries, two ecosystems, and a whole spectrum of marine life.
After check-in and Thai immigration formalities, we boarded the boat and headed across the Pakchan River to Kawthung for Burmese immigration. Passports stamped, gear prepped, smiles wide — our expedition began.
Andaman Sea Sunsets
Sunset on the Myanmar and Thailand Andaman seas...

Day 2 — Mergui’s First Wonders

​Our first dive at High Rock was the perfect warm-up. We drifted along the rocky outcrops and immediately met two tigertail seahorses hiding among the hard corals. Thornback boxfish hovered curiously near the walls while crocodile needlefish glided just under the surface. A busy peacock mantis shrimp scuttled across the sand, and Durban dancing shrimps flashed their white antennae from inside tiny crevices. Moray eels peeked out from the reef — fimbriated and white-eye morays sharing the same neighbourhood — and a cooperative group of four scribbled filefish swam past, changing colour as they fed. Schools of trumpetfish, lionfish, bearded scorpionfish, coral and peacock groupers, snappers, fusiliers, and a handful of blackfin barracudas filled the water column, with a white-tongue trevally circling us during the safety stop.

At Three Islets, the Submarine site gave us a lovely first encounter with a bamboo shark tucked into a rocky crack, and a turtle drifting lazily overhead. We found orange-spotted pipefish and the elegant nudibranch Chromodoris rufomarginata on the sandy slope. Shark Cave was buzzing with life; the entire cave shimmered with sweepers, and outside the entrance clouds of fusiliers pulsed in the current. Sergeant majors were fiercely defending their eggs while wrasses, angelfish, butterflyfish, and triggerfish opportunistically picked at any moment of distraction. Wahoos streaked through the blue, accompanied by a great barracuda, golden trevallies, and even a giant bicolour parrotfish. Square continued the spectacle with more tigertail seahorses, a giant moray, and well-hidden bearded scorpionfish.
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Our night dive around Square and Shark Cave was a treasure hunt of nocturnal critters. Five tigertail seahorses showed up, along with sponge spider crabs, decorated crabs, Godiva quadricolor nudibranchs, and sleepy pufferfish wedged among the corals. Soldierfish and cardinalfish hovered in the glow of our torches while hinge-beak shrimp and banded cleaner shrimp darted from rock to rock.
snake eel andaman sea
Snake eel out and about!
High Rock, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
High Rock, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
fimbriated moray eel
fimbriated moray eel
White eyes moray eels, Mergui Archipelago
White eyes moray eels, Mergui Archipelago
Feet of a crown of thorn seastar, Amdaman Sea, Myanmar
Feet of a crown of thorn seastar

Day 3 — Twin Islands & Blackwater Magic

At North Twin Reef, we descended into crystal-clear blue water where sea snakes wove gracefully across the reef. Oriental sweetlips gathered in loose schools, and anemonefish bobbed in their host anemones. Giant morays, surgeonfish, and redtooth triggerfish patrolled the boulder fields. Seal-face pufferfish, boxfish, and a forest of staghorn, lettuce, and foliose corals created a vibrant underwater landscape.
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South Twin Reef delivered even more action with partner shrimps and peacock mantis shrimps scurrying along the sandy patches. Juvenile triggerfish flicked between coral heads while gold-saddle rabbitfish fed in tight groups. Four dogtooth tunas shot past in formation. Blue dragon nudibranchs were scattered everywhere, and the reef was alive with lined and stripe-bristletooth surgeonfish. A Jenkins ray rested on the sand beside a blue-spotted stingray, while yellow-edge and giant morays watched from shaded holes. An octopus shifted colours as we approached, and juvenile oriental sweetlips wiggled in their rhythmic dance. We ended the dive drifting over beautiful table corals and elegant funnel corals.
myanmar seahorse
Day octopus, Mergui Archipelage
Day octopus
peacock mantis shrimps, South Twin Reef
Peacock mantis shrimps
colorful nudibranch of Mergui Archipelago
That evening’s blackwater dive was a mesmerising drift over the deep. Squid zipped through our lights while baby scribbled filefish floated in their larval form. A banded sea snake surprised us with a rare mid-water visit. Transparent larval shrimps, lobsters, crabs, and mantis shrimps hovered like tiny spacecraft, and pteropods and flying-gurnard larvae pulsed through the darkness.
flying-gurnard larvae pulsed through the darkness
flying-gurnard on a Blackwater
Picture
Comb jelly on a blackwater dive

Day 4 — Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Our two dives at Sea Fan Forest were spectacular. We explored towering forests of gorgonians where another tigertail seahorse clung to the branches. Yellow-lined and neon fusiliers filled the water column, pursued by rainbow runners weaving through the openings. We found several octopus, stonefish, and devil scorpionfish, along with nudibranchs such as Chromodoris, Risbecia annulata, and Geometrica. Zebra morays slithered over the rocks, yellow trumpetfish hovered motionlessly beside sea fans, and peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows. Juvenile boxfish, needlefish, and a perfectly-patterned young emperor angelfish added splashes of colour. A curious cuttlefish rounded off the dive with a gentle display of shifting patterns.

At Western Rocky, we entered the famous cave with octopus and cuttlefish patrolling the entrance. Coral-banded shrimp and red reef crabs clung to the walls, and we spotted a delicate wentletrap snail and a striking Maldivian sponge snail on the sandy floor. Blue dragon nudibranchs added flashes of purple and white as we continued along the reef, passing bannerfish, goatfish, snappers, and butterflyfish enjoying the current.
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Our sunset dive around the Western Rocky islets unfolded beautifully as clouds of fusiliers, sergeant majors, and damsels swirled around us. Harlequin shrimps crept delicately over the rocks, and more Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef. White-tongue trevallies chased schools of baitfish, accompanied by scribbled filefish, pyjama surgeonfish, rainbow runners, golden trevallies, and a pack of blacktail barracudas. At one point, two giant morays squeezed together inside the same hole, seemingly unbothered by each other's presence.
Golden strip fusilier
Golden strip fusilier
Tiger tail seahorse, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
Tiger tail seahorse
Harlequin shrimps crept delicately over the rocks, Western Rocky dive site
Harlequin shrimps hiding well
Cuttlefish, always curious and beautiful
Cuttlefish, always curious and beautiful
Nudibranch Phyllidia varicosa
Nudibranch Phyllidia varicosa
Red reef crab
Red reef crab

Day 5 — Mantas, Currents & Forest Walls

Back at Dendro’s Peak, we descended along a slope draped in purple soft corals. Yellow-lined, neon, and yellowback fusiliers streamed past in glittering clouds while rainbow runners and mackerel darted along the edges. Bannerfish hovered near coral heads, trevallies patrolled the shallows, and a banded sea snake explored the cracks. Zebra morays peeked out from the reef, and coral groupers hunted through the bommies. A large turtle drifted peacefully overhead — and then the highlight of the day arrived as two magnificent manta rays swept gracefully above us, circling repeatedly.

The afternoon dives at Sea Fan Forest were equally memorable. Fusiliers filled every corner of the reef, and another tigertail seahorse clung to a sea fan. A pharaoh cuttlefish hovered confidently before drifting away into the blue. Pickhandle barracudas and golden trevallies patrolled the sandy patches while batfish, moorish idols, and titan triggerfish appeared throughout the site. A large tiger cowrie, several anthias, wrasses, butterflyfish, and damsels added detail to the coral scene. More octopus and a well-camouflaged stonefish ended the day.
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That night’s blackwater dive was exceptionally special, featuring a female paper nautilus drifting like a delicate origami shell. Larval wrasses and tiny fish sheltering inside jellyfish floated through the dark, and we found many larval triggerfish and fish living inside salps — a perfect finale to the drifting night.
Paper nautilus, Blackwater diving, Mergui Archipelago
Paper nautilus, Blackwater
female paper nautilus drifting like a delicate origami shell
female paper nautilus drifting like a delicate origami shell

Day 6 — Into Thailand: Surin & Richelieu Rock

We re-entered Thailand in the early hours and cruised south toward Richelieu Rock, where perfect conditions awaited us.
What Makes Richelieu Rock Famous?
  • A horseshoe-shaped pinnacle covered in purple and pink soft corals
  • Massive schools of trevallies, barracudas, and snappers
  • Incredible macro life: ghost pipefish, harlequin shrimps, tiger eggs cowries
  • Historically known for whale shark sightings
  • Named after Admiral Andreas du Plessis de Richelieu, a Danish officer who served as Commander-in-Chief of the Royal Siamese Navy — not the French cardinal, despite the popular legend

Our first dive at Richelieu Rock was enchanting. Dense schools of glassfish wrapped the entire reef in a shimmering veil. Longnose emperors worked in tight groups, flashing brilliant colours as they hunted, while giant trevallies, bluefins, white-tongue trevallies, and bigeyes patrolled the edges. Batfish hovered calmly around the cleaning stations, and titan triggerfish bulldozed their way along the bottom. Octopus displayed quick colour changes, and huge potato groupers watched us from between the cracks. White-eye, zebra, and yellow-edge moray eels peeked from the crevices, and tiny tiger-egg cowries clung to sea fans. Nudibranchs including chromodoris and flabellina added delicate splashes of colour while bannerfish, wrasses, dartfish, anthias, and butterflyfish decorated every corner of the reef.
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Our night dive at Surin South (Ao Pakkard) offered a different perspective. Giant red crabs prowled the sandy areas, Durban dancing shrimps and marble shrimps flickered under our torches, and boxer-banded shrimps waved their oversized claws. Parrotfish, surgeonfish, and pufferfish were already tucked into their nighttime hideouts, while barracudas sliced through the dark hunting yellowback fusiliers.
Durban dancing shrimps
Durban dancing shrimps
Great dives = happy divers! Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
Great dives = happy divers!
A barracuda gleam in the dark
A barracuda gleam in the dark
Marine flatworm, Pseudobiceros
Marine flatworm, Pseudobiceros

Day 7 — Richelieu, Similans & Koh Tachai

We returned to Richelieu Rock for two more morning dives filled with action. Longnose emperors swam in the shallows where cleaners worked tirelessly around their open mouths. Giant trevallies and chevron barracudas surged through the schools of glassfish. We found beautiful harlequin shrimps, cleaner and orange-spotted pipefish, and several potato groupers cruising the bommies. Boxfish, angelfish, needlefish, cobia, black snapper, and African pompano all made appearances. A large marble ray glided past us to complete the scene.
Similan National Park Highlights
  • Famous for giant granite boulders and white-sand beaches
  • Excellent visibility and vivid blue water
  • Frequent encounters with manta rays, whale sharks, and giant trevallies
  • Beautiful coral gardens with sea fans, hard corals, and soft coral patches

Our third dive at Koh Tachai brought us into the energetic mix this site is known for. Bluefin trevallies and chevron barracudas hunted in packs while giant trevallies and dogtooth tunas patrolled the deeper zones. Marble groupers rested on the bommies while longfin bannerfish, unicorn surgeonfish, angelfish, and massive swarms of fusiliers filled the reef. Lobsters and snappers hid among the corals, and batfish drifted by in lazy groups.
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At Koh Bon, we explored the ridge and bay where hard corals glowed beautifully in the afternoon light. A baby blacktip shark cruised the shallows while an octopus hid in a coral crack. Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef. The dive ended with colourful scenes full of wrasses, goatfish, butterflyfish, damsels, and scorpionfish, with the occasional wahoo and giant moray cruising through the dusk.
Banded coral shrimp, Myanmar diving
Banded coral shrimp
Nudibranche Bornella anguilla
Nudibranche Bornella anguilla
Sexy shrimp and anemones, Mergui Archipelago, Burma
Sexy shrimp and anemones
	Glossodoris cincta
Glossodoris cincta

Day 8 — Racha Noi to Finish

​Our last day took us south to Racha Noi, where Banana Bay offered a relaxed sandy slope with scattered bommies teeming with damsels, redtooth triggerfish, Meyer’s butterflyfish, fiveline and checkered snappers, longbarbel goatfish, squirrelfish, and gold-saddle rabbitfish. A banded sea snake glided along the reef, and a mantis shrimp, guarded closely by its pair of squat shrimps, kept watch from its burrow.
At Manta Reef, we found Glossodoris cincta​, a snowflake moray, and several seal-face pufferfish drifting over the sandy bottom. Garden eels swayed in the light current as blue-spotted rays glided past. Butterflyfish, damsels, and a bearded scorpionfish rounded out the dive while yellowback fusiliers danced above in glittering swirls.
Porcelain anemone crab, Andaman Sea
Porcelain anemone crab
Beautiful soft coral in Mergui Archipelago
Beautiful soft coral
Marine hermit crabs
Marine hermit crabs
Orange sun coral
Orange sun coral

A Perfect Journey Across Two Countries

Impeccable MV Smiling Seahorse diving deck
Picture
Picture
​From Myanmar’s caves and giant sea fans to Thailand’s iconic reefs, this trip delivered unforgettable moments: manta rays, seahorses, endless fusiliers, dramatic landscapes, and amazing energy from our guests.
Thank you to our wonderful divers from Israel for sharing this week with us and their wonderful photos to illustrate this blogpost!
See you soon for another adventure with the MV Smiling Seahorse! 🐟💙
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Trip Report: Burma Adventure, Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks - 31 October – 08 November 2025

10/11/2025

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November 2025 dive trip report
​The MV Smiling Seahorse officially launched the new diving season with a second unforgettable adventure across Myanmar’s remote waters — from the mysterious limestone islands of the Mergui Archipelago to the vast, sandy plateaus of the Burma Banks.
Our second group of the season — joining us from France — gathered at the pier in Ranong with bright smiles and even brighter expectations. After completing the immigration formalities and crossing into Myanmar via Kawthung, passports were stamped, bags stowed, and spirits high as we set course into the wild blue.
Burma sunset onboard my dive cruise
juvenile angelfish burma

​Day 2 — Warming Up the Fins

​Our check dive at High Rock revealed the season’s first treasures: tigertail seahorse, pickhandle barracudas, swirling fusiliers and jacks, peacock mantis shrimps, white-eyed moray eels, Spanish mackerel, and even a curious rainbow runner. Thornback boxfish, pharaoh cuttlefish, and orange-spotted pipefish rounded off the dive — an explosion of colour to start the trip.
The following dives took us to the magical Three Islets:
  • Dive 2 – “The Square & Shark Cave”:  tigertail seahorses, cuttlefish, blue dragons, Durban dancing shrimps, porcelain crabs (one of them carrying eggs!) , zebra and banded snake eels, and playful cleaner pipefish.
  • Dive 3 – “Submarine & Shark Cave”: the tunnels echoed with life — yellowtail barracudas, golden trevallies, a gliding eagle ray, tomato anemonefish, tigertail seahorse, a stonefish, a bamboo shark, and several moray eels.
Our night dive at Shark Cave & Square was pure magic — nine tigertail seahorses, including some mating! Add to that toadfish, cone snails on the move, sleeping parrotfish, soldierfish, and crustaceans galore — a proper nocturnal parade.
That night, the Smiling Seahorse pointed her bow north toward the legendary Black Rock.
pretty nudibranch in myanmar
stonefish camouflaging
porcelaine crab with eggs

​Day 3 — The Kingdom of Currents: Black Rock

​Four dives in total, each more electric than the last. One lucky group spotted a manta ray early in the day, while others drifted among eagle rays, cobias, tunas, yellowtail barracudas, and dense schools of bigeye trevallies.
Amid the action, we admired white devil scorpionfish, octopus, peacock mantis shrimps, lionfish, and patches of vibrant soft corals home to butterflyfish and wrasses.
A sunset dive sealed the day — schools of sergeant fish guarding their eggs, bannerfish, snappers, and reef octopus emerging as the light faded.
mergui archipelago liveaboard fish
octopus of the andaman sea

​Day 4 — North Twin & South Twin

​North Twin Pinnacle: barracudas, fusiliers, red snappers, and a few dogtooth tunas gliding in the blue.
At North Twin Reef, we crossed paths with broadclub cuttlefish, banded sea snakes, giant morays, mantis shrimps, and vibrant corals where angelfish, triggerfish, and surgeonfish danced in the current.
At South Twin Reef, two dives revealed Maldivian sponge snails, marbled groupers, schools of surgeonfish, pyjama surgeonfish, juvenile sweetlips, a fleeting whitetip reef shark, blue ribbon eels, and another elegant wahoo cruising by.
As the sun dipped, we turned our compass westward toward the open ocean — and the mythical Burma Banks.
north twin in Mergui Archipelago
pufferfish in cavern

​Day 5 — Into the Blue: The Great Burma Banks

​The Roe Bank welcomed us with two nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a graceful mangrove whipray, and dogtooth tunas patrolling the edges.
At Coral Bank, the spectacle continued: more nurse sharks, a marble ray, honeycomb moray eels, and a bustling coral city alive with emperor and royal angelfish, neon fusiliers, powder-blue sergeants, velvet surgeonfish, clown triggerfish, trevallies, and Napoleon wrasses.
Even the safety stops were lively — schools of jacks and snappers swirling in golden light.
Myanmar's burma banks ray
shark burma banks

​Day 6 — Rainbow & Silvertip Banks

​The two morning dives at Rainbow Bank were a perfect blend of serenity and adrenaline. Marble rays, nurse sharks snoozing under bommies, clouds of fusiliers, surgeonfish, tunas, great barracudas, royal angelfish, giant sweetlips, potato groupers, and grey reef sharks filled the blue.
A third dive at Silvertip Bank offered encounters with Napoleon wrasses, grey reef sharks, and another nurse shark gliding past gracefully.
One group opted for a sunset dive among vibrant reef life — bannerfish, butterflyfish, wrasses, and anthias painting the scene — while the rest of the guests embarked on a surreal blackwater dive, drifting with larval anemonefish, eel larvae, stargazers, pyrosomes, siphonophores, venus girdles, and glowing comb jellies under the stars.
diving the burma banks incredible coral reef
Bigeye trevallis
honeycomb moray at the Burma Banks

​Day 7 — Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

​At Sea Fan Forest, enormous gorgonians lined the reef like underwater cathedrals. Neon fusiliers, trevallies, glassfish, pickhandle barracudas, and curious mantis shrimps mingled with stonefish, anemone crabs, and longnose hawkfish.
At Western Rocky, the current brought white-tongue trevallies, yellowfin barracudas, and marble shrimps out to play.
Our night dive at Western Rocky was a treasure hunt — sleeping trevallies, massive sponge crabs, feather star squat lobsters, giant morays, tiny shrimps on whip coral, coral cowries, phenacovolva snails, and even a sea butterfly fluttering through the torchlight.
sunset on Andaman Sea Liveaboard
butterfly fish at the Burma banks
We enjoyed a delicious barbecue dinner that night, featuring spare ribs, hand-cut French fries, tomates à la provençale, a fresh salad assortment, grilled chicken wings and sausages, along with potatoes en robe des champs served with a rich garlic butter.
Eating barbecue on my Myanmar liveaboard
a barbecue on my scuba diving liveaboard

​Day 8 — Return to Western Rocky

​Back at Sea Fan Forest, we spotted lionfish, devil scorpionfish, a fimbriated moray sharing its crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
Our final dives at Eagle Rock, The Cave, and The Islets revealed pickhandle barracudas, longnose emperors, dogtooth tunas, boxfish, porcupinefish, nudibranchs like Chromodoris reticulata and Glossodoris cincta, harlequin shrimps, leopard morays, rainbow runners, and Napoleon wrasses.
beautiful visibility in Burma
bannerfish at Western Rocky

​Day 9 — Farewell Dive at Dendro’s Peak

​Our final dive brought a fitting finale: schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, a majestic great barracuda, banded sea snake, and one last fimbriated moray waving us goodbye.
With our tanks empty but our hearts full, we headed back to Kawthaung for our traditional Burmese beers, immigration clearance, and the sail back to Ranong.
The second expedition of the season was everything we’d hoped for — thrilling dives, wonderful guests, and the timeless magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks. A big thank you to our wonderful guests for illustrating this blogpost with their photos!
Until next time — see you underwater aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse!
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Trip Report: Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks, 21st-29th October 2025

31/10/2025

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​The MV Smiling Seahorse kicked off the new diving season with a spectacular journey through the remote waters of Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago and the legendary Burma Banks. Departing from Ranong, our first group of adventurers — joining us from France, Switzerland, Belgium, Ireland, the US, and the UK — gathered with excitement at the pier.
After check-in, we completed the usual immigration formalities in Ranong before crossing the border to Kawthung, Myanmar. With passports stamped and smiles all around, we set course toward the mysterious Mergui Archipelago — a place of dramatic limestone and granit boulder islands, lush jungle cliffs, and some of the most vibrant underwater life in the Andaman Sea.
Beautiful underwater scene in Mergui Archipelago
vibrant underwater life in the Andaman Sea

Day 2 — Into the Blue

​Our check dive at High Rock was the perfect start, offering calm conditions and an easy descent into a thriving coral reef. Among the swaying soft corals, we spotted oriental sweetlips, butterflyfish, blue damsels, and curious bannerfish darting between the rocks — a beautiful welcome back to Burmese waters.
Our second dive took us to Three Islets (Square), alive with action! Schools of fusiliers and white tongue jacks swirled above the reef, while a tigertail seahorse and an orange-spotted pipefish delighted our macro enthusiasts. Blue-lined snappers, Moorish idols, and a few playful anemonefish added even more colour to the scene.
Dive three at Three Islets (Shark Cave) brought strong surges, so we explored around the island instead of entering the cave. The current carried schools of pickhandle barracudas past walls of soft corals where tomato anemonefish guarded their homes.
For the night dive, we returned to Shark Cave. Under torchlight, we found barracudas cruising the dark, parrotfish sleeping soundly in their mucus bubbles, a seal-face pufferfish tucked into a crack, and a curious pharaoh cuttlefish. We also encountered soldierfish, cardinalfish, and a few colourful wrasses hunting under the beams of our lights.
That night, we set sail toward the famous Black Rock.
Leopard muray eel in Mergui Archipelago
Sea urchin eye
Blue Dragon nudibranche
Com jelly, ctenophore, Blackwater diving in Burma
Jellyfish, Blackwater diving in Myanmar

Day 3 — The Majesty of Black Rock

​At sunrise, we descended on Black Rock’s north side, greeted by schools of bigeye jacks, barracudas, lionfish, and snapper clouds drifting in the blue.
Our second dive on the south side was pure magic — mantas! Not one, but four graceful oceanic manta rays soared through the current, looping and gliding as dogtooth tunas patrolled below.
The third and fourth dives kept the action going, with dense schools of jacks, fusiliers, and surgeonfish swirling through the water column. A leopard moray eel peeked from a crevice during the sunset dive, a perfect finale to a spectacular day.
Clark clownfish, Amphiprion Clarkii
Sun corals, Tubastreaea sp, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Day 4 — North Twin Wonders

​North Twin Pinnacle — the current-fed site teeming with barracudas, fusiliers, and red snappers. We admired tiger  egg cowries, moray eels, and a few curious dogtooth tunas cruising by.
At North Twin Reef, we met a banded sea snake weaving through coral bommies, an octopus changing colours before our eyes, and a squad of batfish gliding gracefully in the blue. Mantis shrimps and lobsters completed the day’s macro highlights.
After our final dive, the Smiling Seahorse set course westward for the Burma Banks — a legendary chain of submerged plateaus rising from the depths of the Andaman Sea, located about 180 km offshore. These vast, remote reefs are known for their big pelagic life and pristine coral formations.
Porcelain crab in Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
Blue bell tunicates, North Twin, Mergui Archipelago
Giant moray eel in Mergui Archipelago, Burma

Day 5 — The Great Burma Banks

​Our first dives at Roe Bank revealed a world of giants — several nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a mangrove whipray, and schooling black surgeonfish weaving around coral heads. Dogtooth tunas patrolled the outer slopes, keeping smaller reef fish in constant motion.
At Rainbow Bank, the spectacle continued — nurse sharks again, a stunning marble ray, three honeycomb moray eels, and a vibrant reef alive with emperor angelfish, surgeonfish, batfish, and butterflyfish. A Maldives sponge snail was spotted nestled among the corals — a treat for our keen-eyed photographers.
Honeycomb muray eel in Mergui Archipelago
White eyes moray eels at Burma banks
Nurse shark in Burma Banks, Myanmar

Day 6 — Coral and Silvertip Banks

​The morning dives at Coral Bank lived up to its name — hard corals in excellent condition, surrounded by nurse sharks, whitetip reef sharks, and a flurry of wrasses, triggerfish, and parrotfish.
At Silvertip Banks, the energy was palpable. Grey reef sharks patrolled the plateau, nurse sharks lounged near coral heads, and a swimming zebra shark passed by trough clouds of anthias, surgeonfish, and bannerfish shimmered in the current.
Surgeonfish at Silvertip Banks
Anemone fish

Day 7 — Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

​Back among the islands, we explored Sea Fan Forest, where enormous gorgonian fans hosted ghost pipefish and schools of fusiliers and trevallies.
At Western Rocky Eagle Rock, large schools of white tongue trevallies and yellowfin barracudas filled the blue, while marble shrimps hid in the cracks.
Our sunset dive in Western Rocky Cave brought us face to face with two Glossodoris nudibranch protecting its eggs, curious cuttlefish, and colourful reef fish preparing for nightfall.
enormous gorgonian fans hosted ghost pipefish
Golden mantis shrimp, Mergui Archipelago, Burma
Black tipped grouper, Mergui Archipelago
Glossodoris nudibranch in Western Rocky

Day 8 — Western Rocky Finale

​We returned to Sea Fan Forest in the morning, spotting lionfish, devil scorpionfish, and a stunning fimbriated moray eel sharing a crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
At Western Rocky Cave, a beautiful Chromodoris nudibranch added a pop of colour, while the final dives at Eagle Rock delivered dramatic cuttlefish mating and fighting scenes, plus a rare Pikachu nudibranch — the perfect finale for our photographers!
Devil scorpionfish in Sea Fan Forest, Mergui Archipelago
fimbriated moray eel in Mergui Archipelago, Burma
Lionfish, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
Beautiful cuttlefish in Myanmar
Chromodoris nudibranch in Western Rocky, Mergui Archipelago
Mantis shrimp in Western Rocky, Mergui Archipelago

Day 9 — Farewell Dive

Our last dive at Dendro’s Peak brought one more burst of colour — schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, and even a curious yellow boxfish to send us off.
With the dives complete, we headed back toward Kawthung for our traditional Burmese beers and final immigration clearance before returning to Ranong. The first trip of the season set the tone perfectly — thrilling dives, great company, and the magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks welcoming us back once again.
See you underwater on our next adventure with MV Smiling Seahorse!
Spotted boxfish, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
Parrotfish eye
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