blackwater diving in thailand & myanmar
Blackwater diving in Thailand and Myanmar
Have you ever tried Blackwater diving in Thailand or Myanmar?
Even though I had been hearing about it for years, it wasn’t until 2020 that I finally decided to give it a try from our boat. And from that very first night, I was completely hooked!
After twenty years of diving, it was a true visual shock. An unknown world, filled with strange, delicate and fascinating creatures, was finally opening up before me.
An Unforgettable First Dive
Call it beginner’s luck, but on my second dive, I found myself face to face with a juvenile sailfish!
That encounter was a real turning point. I went on to complete six more Blackwater dives before the end of the Andaman Sea season.
Among my most memorable encounters, I particularly remember seeing a delicate paper nautilus and a juvenile tripodfish — a rare species usually seen only in documentaries, as adults live in the deepest parts of the ocean.
A World Invisible During Regular Dives
Most marine animals begin their lives as larvae drifting in the open ocean, before eventually making their way to the reef once they are sufficiently developed.
Floating in the darkness, suspended in midwater, allows us to observe these extraordinary, translucent creatures that remain completely invisible during regular dives.
It is also a unique opportunity to witness, from the front row, the largest animal migration on our planet: every night, plankton and countless pelagic animals rise from the depths towards the surface.
It is precisely this discovery of a world that is normally invisible that makes Blackwater diving so fascinating.
What is Blackwater diving?
Blackwater Diving is an extraordinary way to experience night diving from a completely different perspective!
Diving into the Darkness
During a Blackwater dive, you descend into very deep water, far from any reef, with no other reference than a downline equipped with powerful lights.
In complete darkness, you drift in mid-water and observe the marine life that naturally comes towards the light.
Discovering an Invisible World
Blackwater diving gives you the opportunity to encounter marine life that you would almost never see on a regular dive.
You may encounter:
- fish larvae and juveniles;
- young crabs and shrimps, still drifting in the open water before settling on the reef;
- strange and translucent creatures that go unnoticed during traditional dives;
- and sometimes even deep-sea creatures that would normally never venture up to the reefs.
Blackwater diving VS Bonfire diving
What Is the Difference?
The main difference between these two types of diving lies in what is beneath you. Blackwater Diving takes place in the open ocean, above very deep water, while Bonfire Diving is carried out above a reef or sandy area.Two Techniques, One Principle
In both cases, we use powerful lights to attract plankton and observe the many creatures that come to feed on it. You can therefore encounter larvae and juveniles during both types of dives. However, once they reach areas closer to the reef, they are generally further along in their development and closer to their adult form.Why Do We Prefer Blackwater Diving?
Over the years, we have achieved better results with offshore Blackwater Diving in the waters of the Andaman Sea. That doesn’t mean we don’t enjoy regular night dives on the reef. They offer a completely different experience, with their own unique encounters and surprises!What can you see on a Blackwater dive in Thailand?
When Fiction Becomes Reality
Remember all those strange creatures you’ve seen in science-fiction movies: transparent, dreamlike creatures, tiny aliens with long arms and completely improbable shapes… In Blackwater, they become real! During your dives, these little “monsters” come out to perform in the beam of your lights, before disappearing back into the darkness.A World Made for Photography
Blackwater Diving in the Andaman Sea, Thailand, also offers unique photographic opportunities. You could be one of the few divers to have ever observed and photographed a jellyfish, planktonic creature or larva before it disappears back into the night. Large specimens are relatively rare during Blackwater dives. But if you take the time to look carefully, you’ll discover an incredible diversity of shapes and sizes. You may encounter different juvenile stages of:- fish from the Andaman Sea;
- gastropods, such as snails and sea slugs;
- cephalopods, including tiny squid and octopuses sometimes smaller than your fingernail;
- crustaceans, including shrimp, crabs and tiny mantis shrimps.
Truly Exceptional Encounters
Every diver dreams of one day encountering an argonaut, a sailfish or a blanket octopus. But there are so many other amazing “little monsters” waiting to be discovered!The Fun of Searching… and Guessing
At first, you may find it difficult to identify the species you encounter. And that’s perfectly normal! Some juveniles can look completely different from their adult form, making them almost impossible to recognise underwater. But that’s also part of what makes Blackwater so much fun: once back on board, we look through the photos, compare our sightings and play the guessing game with our fellow divers.How do you set up for a Blackwater dive then?
The Principle
The idea behind Blackwater Diving is to dive above deep water, far from any reef, with no reference point other than a suspended line equipped with powerful lights.
To avoid being disturbed by other divers’ lights, it is best to dive in small groups. Divers generally explore in buddy pairs around the line, searching for fascinating marine creatures drifting through the darkness.
Our Blackwater Line
The line we use is 20 metres long and weighted. It is equipped with:
- a large, brightly lit surface buoy;
- powerful lights attached every 5 metres along the line.
The buoy is deliberately kept some distance away from the boat. Surface currents or wind can push the boat in one direction while divers, deeper underwater, drift in another.
The buoy is much less affected by these movements, making it a more stable and easier reference point for divers to follow.
Before Entering the Water
Once the line has been properly set up and deployed, we prefer to wait a few minutes before starting the dive.
This gives the lights time to attract the creatures rising from the depths towards the surface.
It is also the perfect time to review the dive plan, diver positions and equipment together before entering the water.
What Equipment Do You Need?
You will need the same basic equipment as for a regular night dive:
- a primary dive light;
- a backup light, essential for safety.
And for gadget enthusiasts, a laser pointer can also be very useful for getting your buddy’s attention when you spot something interesting!
Once everyone is ready, all that remains is to enter the darkness… and see what creatures come to meet you.
Dive Briefing for Blackwater diving
Good Preparation Is Essential
A Blackwater dive should be prepared in advance to ensure the best possible conditions and allow everyone to fully enjoy the experience.
One of the most important things to understand is the impact your movements can have on other divers and on the tiny creatures you have come to observe.
Move Your Light Carefully
If your light is moving in all directions, it can scare away some creatures… and end up shining directly into another diver’s eyes!
This is especially unpleasant during a night dive, when your pupils are fully dilated.
Move slowly and keep your light under control. Your buddy and the creatures around you will thank you for it!
Think in Three Dimensions
During a Blackwater dive, you also need to be aware of your three-dimensional space, particularly the movement of your bubbles.
Move slowly and avoid swimming underneath another diver. Your bubbles rise and create an upward current that can carry away all the tiny creatures in the water column.
Sharing Space and Depths
Dividing and assigning different depths to divers can be a great way to give everyone a little more space to observe and photograph.
This is something worth discussing during the briefing. Some divers may prefer to explore deeper than others.
If everyone wants to stay in roughly the same area, you can also agree on a dive plan and a rotation time around the central line.
My Advice After Many Blackwater Dives
In my experience, there is no real ideal depth for Blackwater diving.
What generally works best for me is to gradually move away from the other divers while regularly returning towards the central line to maintain my bearings and reconnect with the group.
In Blackwater, taking your time, staying aware of your surroundings and giving other divers enough space are all part of the experience.
Who is blackwater diving for?
Not Just for Photographers!
Blackwater dives offer incredible photographic opportunities, to the point that some underwater photographers sometimes think they are primarily about photography. I firmly believe that anyone passionate about the ocean can be amazed by a Blackwater dive, especially divers who enjoy macro or muck diving and searching for tiny creatures on sediment-covered seafloors.Good Buoyancy Control
You don’t need to be a professional diver to try Blackwater Diving. However, it is important to have good control of your neutral buoyancy. Unlike a regular dive, there is no bottom beneath you and very few, if any, visual references to instinctively tell you whether you are ascending or descending. This can be a little disorienting at first.Once You Have Mastered Your Buoyancy…
You might think that Blackwater is a particularly challenging, or even dangerous, type of diving. Yet once you have mastered your buoyancy, it is surprisingly simple and natural. You simply float in the middle of the water column and, when there is a current, let it carry you along. Even during a drifting Blackwater dive, you can sometimes feel as though the water around you is completely still. All that remains is to focus on what is happening around you… And enjoy the show!Diving Techniques to see more on your next Blackwater dive in Thailand or Myanmar
Rule #1: Take It Slow
Most of the creatures you encounter at night are very sensitive to movement. Approach them slowly and carefully… otherwise, they may disappear before you even have time to observe them!
Rule #2: Think in Three Dimensions
In Blackwater, you are no longer limited to the reef floor. Creatures can be anywhere around you — above, below or to either side. Think in three dimensions and take the time to look in every direction.
Rule #3: Move Your Light Slowly
To spot small creatures, move your light gently through the water column. A movement that is too fast can easily scare away whatever you are looking for.
Take your time, observe carefully… and let the little monsters come to you!
Now some tips for the underwater photographers on Blackwater dives!
What's the difference between Blackwater and Macro Photography?
A Different Way to Do Macro Photography
It’s true that the subjects are often a similar size, and you can use the same camera and lens to photograph them. But the behaviour of the marine life encountered during Blackwater dives makes the experience so much more exciting than photographing a nudibranch sitting quietly on a rock!Tiny and Translucent Subjects
Most of the creatures we encounter during Blackwater dives are larvae or very young individuals. They are often transparent or semi-transparent, making them particularly interesting to photograph… but also more challenging. To achieve good results, you will generally need more light and a smaller aperture to properly reveal the details and contours of these delicate subjects. But more light also brings its own challenge: backscatter. And this is where Blackwater photography becomes really interesting: you need to learn how to control your lighting so that you illuminate the subject without lighting up all the particles floating between you and your camera.How to get these wonderful Blackwater diving pictures?
Choosing Your Lens
For Blackwater photography, a 60mm macro lens combined with a crop-sensor camera makes an excellent setup. This combination offers a good balance of working distance, focusing speed and focal length, while remaining versatile enough to photograph the small subjects moving through the water column.Get Close to Your Subject
In Blackwater, it is particularly important to get as close to your subject as possible. The less water there is between your lens and the animal, the fewer particles there will be between them — and therefore the lower the risk of backscatter in your photos.Master Your Lighting
A focus light is very useful for helping your camera focus in the darkness. For illuminating your subject, however, two strobes generally produce better results. They allow you to light the subject from both sides and have better control over the lighting while reducing backscatter. In Blackwater photography, getting close and controlling your light are often the keys to a great photo.Intrigued? Join one of our special Burma cruises and experience up to 5 additional Blackwater dives!
22 November 2026
8 Days / 7 Nights · 25 Dives
Departure: Ranong at 2:00 PM Return: Ranong at approximately 5:00–6:00 PM
Price per Diver
Prices valid from January 2026
- Standard Cabin: THB 82,000
- Deluxe Cabin: THB 84,200
-
Master Cabin: THB 87,500
12 February 2028
8 Days / 7 Nights · 25 Dives
Departure: Ranong at 2:00 PM Return: Ranong at approximately 5:00–6:00 PM
Price per Diver
Prices valid from January 2026
- Standard Cabin: THB 82,000
- Deluxe Cabin: THB 92,600
-
Master Cabin: THB 96,300
The Smiling Seahorse now offers Blackwater diving on all cruises.
EXCELLENT
Based on 93 reviews
Posted on Google![]()
Magda KapustaTrustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
My diving cruise with The Smiling Seahorse was absolutely fantastic from start to finish. Everything was extremely well organized and seamless, making the entire vacation completely stress-free and enjoyable. The crew was exceptional — professional, friendly, attentive, and always making sure everyone felt comfortable and safe. The food was amazing throughout the trip, with great variety and quality at every meal. The boat itself is excellent: very comfortable, well maintained, and thoughtfully designed for divers. The cabins are spacious and comfortable, and the common areas are very well organized, giving everyone plenty of space to relax between dives. What truly made the experience unforgettable was the incredible selection of dive spots. Every dive offered something special, with beautiful marine life, stunning coral reefs, and perfectly planned itineraries. Overall, this was a full enjoyment vacation and one of the best liveaboard experiences I’ve had. I highly recommend The Smiling Seahorse to anyone looking for a perfectly organized diving adventure with a fantastic crew and unforgettable diving.Posted on Google![]()
Laura ForsythTrustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
Another vote for the Smiling Seahorse - it's a very good boat. Purpose built for serious diving, the thought and care put into it by its owner and crew really shows. Everything you need is available, easy to access, well maintained and functional, without anything extraneous or funky. There is a devotion to diving, to underwater photography, to the marine life, to the history and natural history of the Similan Islands and Burma, to the guest experience and developing our skills. Our group did the week-long South to North Andaman Sea trip in January 2026, and each day was better than the one before. The diving is exceptional, with healthy corals and masses and masses of fish, even before we got to the climax of Richelieu Rock. They include an black water dive on each trip, a truly unique opportunity. We received tremendous support from the dive guides and the crew alike, who gracefully and respectfully accommodated everyone's needs. Even the little things - one of the deck crew noticed that the little strap connecting the dust cap to my regulator was close to breaking off and offered to repair it. He did a beautiful job and I'll be reminded of his generosity and kindness each time I dive that reg. Our guide, James, has years of experience, like many masters, conveyed his knowledge with simplicity and clarity (and humor - whew!). I became a better diver following his example. I keep remembering the happy anticipation of standing at the stern, all kitted up, waiting for the captain's signal to jump. Next trip - Burma. The cabins are simple and comfortable, although you may want to bring a pad if you're not a fan of firm beds. A/C and hot water in each cabin - all good. Everyone in our group, from the experts with many thousands of dives to the recently certified, to a couple of non-diving spouses, loved the Smiling Seahorse!Posted on Google![]()
Nadine FischerTrustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
We had an amazing time on the Smiling Seahorse liveaboard in Thailand. Everything was well organized, relaxed, and very professional. Our dive guide Julien was fantastic. He showed us beautiful dive sites and even pointed out tiny nudibranchs we would never have seen ourselves. His eye for detail made every dive special. The food was excellent, and the crew was incredibly friendly and helpful, especially when assisting with dive gear. Overall, a wonderful experience – It was our 2nd trip and we will definitely come again!Posted on Google![]()
Udi NehabTrustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
An Unforgettable Week Underwater! I just wrapped up a phenomenal week-long liveaboard trip in the Similan Islands with The Smiling Seahorse team, and I cannot recommend them enough. The dives were absolutely gorgeous, but what really set the experience apart was Julian’s amazing spotting skills—he has an incredible eye and made sure we didn't miss a thing. The entire crew was attentive, professional, and always right there to assist with all of our needs, making the whole week completely seamless. On top of the world-class diving, the food was fantastic. Everything was incredibly tasty, and they offered a great variety of dishes that really hit the spot after a long day in the water. Five stars across the board—if you're looking for a top-tier liveaboard operation, this is the team to go with!Posted on Google![]()
Tsachi YeshurunTrustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
I went for a 9 day dive safari in Myanmar, the mergui archipelago, with the smiling seahorse. One of the unique experiences I had. My first (and second and third) Blackwater dive, dives I will never forget. The staff are wonderful, the dive guides are amazing, they actually care and put in a lot of extra effort and the ship crew were helpful and nice. I dove with Julian, the dive master, who I would dive with anywhere anytime, and we enjoyed the presence of camille, the owner, who lit up the place with her positive energies. I've been on fancier boats, but I enjoyed this one much better.Posted on Google![]()
Lee WaggenerTrustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
Safe, clean, friendly staff always willing to help, easy on and off the boat, good dive sites. Guides are awesome. The dive crew very accommodating. Nice camera room. Keep the same tank entire trip. Some sites we went in small groups in a dingy. The return the dingy would slowly pull you back. Thankful we did nit have to struggle getting back in the dingy Some times we would just float back to the boat. We were divided into groups so everyone wasn’t getting ready at the same time. Plenty of food and snacks. Only complaint is the chairs and beds are hard as cement. Compared to the good stuff that was nothing. I would for sure go again.Posted on Google![]()
Ray BusardTrustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
We did seven days on the Smiling Seahorse level over. The crew the boat everything was amazing. The divers did 20+ dives and as a snooker we did four snorkels, which was totally unexpected and so delightful. Took us to some of the best Dive spots in the world and the pictures proved that’s true. The food on board was over the top!! I would recommend this trip to anybody around the world!Posted on Google![]()
ליאור ארדTrustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
I just returned from a week-long liveaboard with the club, and the experience was simply outstanding. The entire team demonstrated high professionalism throughout, with in-depth safety briefings and modern, well-maintained equipment. A special thanks to our amazing dive guides: James, Velika, Katie, and Mint. Each of them brought great energy and uncompromising expertise. Thanks to them, we felt in safe hands during every dive, and they knew exactly how to lead us to the most beautiful spots in the pristine sites we visited. The boat was very comfortable, and the excellent food between dives rounded out the experience perfectly. This is without a doubt a top-tier diving club, and I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a week of peace and world-class diving!"Posted on Google![]()
Itai StadlerTrustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
An outstanding liveaboard experience from start to finish. The hospitality on The Smiling Seahorse is truly exceptional — warm, attentive, and genuine, making you feel welcome and taken care of at every moment. The dive sites were beautiful and well chosen, offering a great variety and excellent conditions. Each dive felt thoughtfully planned to maximize both safety and enjoyment. What really sets this liveaboard apart is the extraordinary professionalism of the crew and dive instructors. Their experience, calm approach, and attention to detail were evident throughout the trip. Briefings were clear and thorough, underwater guidance was excellent, and safety was always the top priority — without ever taking away from the fun. Highly recommended for anyone looking for high-quality diving combined with top-level service and professionalism. I would gladly dive with them again.Posted on Google![]()
Yossie BarTrustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
It was amazing!!! Katie the diving guide is absolutely magnificent, friendly, crazy in a good way... The team is just extraordinary! Humble, helping wherever they can, the food is delicious and also satisfying, the boys helps greatly every time you come up from a dive... The guides are funny and resourceful... It was really just a perfect time.
EXCELLENT
Based on 227 reviews
Posted on Tripadvisor![]()
Magda KVerified
Fantastic ! My diving cruise with The Smiling Seahorse was absolutely fantastic from start to finish. Everything was extremely well organized and seamless, making the entire vacation completely stress-free and enjoyable. The crew was exceptional — professional, friendly, attentive, and always making sure everyone felt comfortable and safe. The food was amazing throughout the trip, with great variety and quality at every meal. The boat itself is excellent: very comfortable, well maintained, and thoughtfully designed for divers. The cabins are spacious and comfortable, and the common areas are very well organized, giving everyone plenty of space to relax between dives. What truly made the experience unforgettable was the incredible selection of dive spots. Every dive offered something special, with beautiful marine life, stunning coral reefs, and perfectly planned itineraries. Overall, this was a full enjoyment vacation and one of the best liveaboard experiences I’ve had. I highly recommend The Smiling Seahorse to anyone looking for a perfectly organized diving adventure with a fantastic crew and unforgettable diving.Posted on Tripadvisor![]()
ScenicPathVerified
A well-run boat with a fantastic crew and dive staff - highly recommended! Another vote for the Smiling Seahorse - a very good boat. Purpose built for serious diving, the thought and care put into it by its owner and crew really shows. Everything you need is available, easy to access, well maintained and functional, without anything extraneous or funky. There is a devotion to diving, to underwater photography, to the marine life, to the history and natural history of the Similan Islands and Burma, to the guest experience and developing our skills. Our group did the week-long South to North Andaman Sea trip in January 2026, and each day was better than the one before. The diving is exceptional, with healthy corals and masses and masses of fish, even before we got to the climax of Richelieu Rock. They include an black water dive on each trip, a truly unique opportunity. We received tremendous support from the dive guides and the crew alike, who gracefully and respectfully accommodated everyone's needs. Even the little things - one of the deck crew noticed that the little strap connecting the dust cap to my regulator was close to breaking off and offered to repair it. He did a beautiful job and I'll be reminded of his generosity and kindness each time I dive that reg. Our guide, James, has years of experience, like many masters, conveyed his knowledge with simplicity and clarity (and humor - whew!). I became a better diver following his example. I keep remembering the happy anticipation of standing at the stern, all kitted up, waiting for the captain's signal to jump. Next trip - Burma. The cabins are simple and comfortable, although you may want to bring a pad if you're not a fan of firm beds. A/C and hot water in each cabin - all good. Everyone in our group, from the experts with many thousands of dives to the recently certified, to a couple of non-diving spouses, loved the Smiling Seahorse!Posted on Tripadvisor![]()
izacassiaVerified
Best scuba diving Safari in Thailand These guys are incredible! 7 days of diving from the south to the north of the Andaman Sea. The staff are incredibly helpful and the food and atmosphere was great. Special thanks to Velika, our guide, that showed us many sea creatures from the micro (picachu) to the large (white tip shark). It was an adventure! Highly recommended.Posted on Tripadvisor![]()
yiftah sVerified
The smiling seahorse experience Amazing crew, beautiful dives and unbelievable atmosphere... Had the best two weeks of my life! ❤️❤️❤️Posted on Tripadvisor![]()
Udi NVerified
An Unforgettable Week Underwater! I just wrapped up a phenomenal week-long liveaboard trip in the Similan Islands with The Smiling Seahorse team, and I cannot recommend them enough. The dives were absolutely gorgeous, but what really set the experience apart was Julian’s amazing spotting skills—he has an incredible eye and made sure we didn't miss a thing. The entire crew was attentive, professional, and always right there to assist with all of our needs, making the whole week completely seamless. On top of the world-class diving, the food was fantastic. Everything was incredibly tasty, and they offered a great variety of dishes that really hit the spot after a long day in the water. Five stars across the board—if you're looking for a top-tier liveaboard operation, this is the team to go with!Posted on Tripadvisor![]()
Alon kedarVerified
מעל ומבר צללתי אתם באירגון של buddy divers היה נפלא מעל ומעבר לציפיות. הארגון היה מעולה, הצוות מקצועי, תומך ועוזר כל הדרך מלבישת הסנפירים לפני ועד עזרה בכל צורך. תודה גדולה למדריכת צלילה בשם ג׳וי היה נהדר. אלוןPosted on Tripadvisor![]()
Oren KVerified
Wonderful experience with the Smiling Seahorse After 9 wonderful days of a diving safari in Myanmar on the Smiling Seahorse liveaboard, I have to say that it’s been a long time since I’ve come across people who are so professional at what they do. The dive guide team is top notch! The crew that takes care of the boat and the diving equipment is extremely professional, always thinking about every single detail and showing endless care for the guests. The boat feels very homely and warm, and it’s especially well suited for underwater photographers. Simply pure pleasure incredible diving, warmth, and love for the guests both above and below the water. Oren KidronPosted on Tripadvisor![]()
עדי אVerified
Don’t miss this liveaboard trip! The trip was amazing! I had so much fun and I really didn’t want it to end. Velica my guide was the nicest, so caring and professional and fun to dive with, and made me feel very safe. All the stuff was very friendly, professional and personal, and made the whole experience something I’ll never forget. The boat was comfortable and clean, the food was delicious, and the overall vibe on board was relaxed and fun. Beautiful dive sites and amazing dives. I highly recommend it for anyone looking for an unforgettable diving adventure. I would definitely dive with them again!Posted on Tripadvisor![]()
Yossie FeldmanVerified
Amazing experience, go!!! It was amazing!!! Katie the diving guide is absolutely magnificent, friendly, crazy in a good way... The team is just extraordinary! Humble, helping wherever they can, the food is delicious and also satisfying, the boys helps greatly every time you come up from a dive... The guides are funny and resourceful... It was really just a perfect time.Posted on Tripadvisor![]()
Are RVerified
Amazing company to go diving with. They picked us up at Koh Phayam even though they are based in Ranong, and helped us organize our transport onwards from Ranong after the trip. James organizes everything with a steady hand and a twinkle in the eye. You will not be bored during briefings on the smiling sea horse. Our guide, Veli Ka, was just amazing as well. So full of knowledge and safe and fun to dive with. All the crew were really nice - seems like a great work environment. The boat itself was really comfortable with a big lounge, sun deck, AC rooms with private bathrooms. Not crowded at all. The food was mouth watering as well. 5 stars!