Blog about diving in Asia

Thailand's Marine National Parks : why seasonal closures are key to their beauty

15/5/2025

why closing national parks in thailand is necessary to preserve them

The Importance of Seasonal Closure of Marine National Parks in Thailand

Thailand is renowned for its crystal-clear waters, vibrant coral reefs, and diverse marine ecosystems. Its marine national parks, such as the Surin and Similan Islands in the North or Koh Phiphi, Koh Lanta and Tarutao National parks in the South, are among the top destinations for scuba divers and other nature lovers.

When Are Marine National Parks Closed in Thailand ?
Thailand’s marine parks enforce seasonal closures primarily between mid-May and mid-October, coinciding with the monsoon season. This period brings strong winds and heavy rains, making it unsafe for visitors while also providing much-needed rest for the environment. The following parks are among those affected :

- Similan Islands National Park: A diver’s paradise, temporarily closed to allow coral reefs and marine life to recover.
- Surin Islands: Known for pristine beaches and rich biodiversity, this park shuts down during monsoon months.
- Hat Noppharat Thara-Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park: Home to the famous Maya Bay, which limits visitor access to protect fragile ecosystems.
- Mu Ko Lanta National Park: Iconic sites like Ko Rok Nai and Ko Rok Nok are off-limits during the rainy season.
- Tarutao National Park: Known for great diving around Koh Lipe, the park is closed from June 1st to September 30th.

seafan and butterfly fish during the diving season

fish needs a quiet place to flourish during the off season

While these closures may seem inconvenient, they are crucial for the long-term health of Thailand’s marine ecosystems.

Why Are Marine Parks Temporarily Closed?
Seasonal closures serve several critical purposes, balancing conservation efforts with sustainable tourism.

1. Protecting Wildlife and Biodiversity
Many marine species depend on undisturbed habitats for breeding and nesting.
Seasonal closures help safeguard their survival by minimising human interference. For instance:
Sea turtles return to the exact beach where they were born to lay their eggs. However, if they detect human activity or disturbances, they may abandon their nesting attempt, which can significantly impact their population.
Fish populations flourish in quiet, healthy reefs, but excessive diving activity can create significant stress for marine species. Furthermore, diver's bubbles, and boat engines contribute to a disruptive noise pollution, that may affect migration patterns.
Migratory birds rely on secluded islands for rest during their long journeys. They are highly sensitive to human interaction, which can cause them to abandon crucial stopover sites, leading to exhaustion and lower survival rates.

2. Coral Reef Regeneration
Coral reefs are among the most delicate ecosystems on the planet. Activities like diving, snorkeling, and boat traffic can damage these fragile habitats. Seasonal closures allow corals to regenerate, improving their health and resilience. This ensures a more vibrant experience for visitors once the parks reopen.

3. Safety
This period corresponds to the monsoon season, with strong winds coming from the west and big waves forming between the Indian continent and Thailand's west coast. While navigating might be possible on some days, it is usually not safe to do so.

I'm visiting Thailand between May and October. Where can I go diving?

1. Explore Alternatives Near Phuket
Phuket Thailand’s largest island, is an excellent starting point for exploring marine attractions. During the off-season, consider visiting:
- Racha Islands: These islands offer some of the best diving conditions in Thailand, even during the rainy season.
- Koh Yao Noi and Koh Yao Yai: Located in Phang Nga Bay, these islands remain serene and welcoming throughout the year.

2. Discover Year-Round Destinations
While the Andaman Sea's national parks may be closed, other diving locations remain open all year round in the gulf of Thailand:
- Koh Tao: A diver’s destination known for its calm waters and cheap diving, Koh Tao is the perfect place to refine your skills. With a variety of diving schools, you can take courses in underwater photography, technical diving, freediving, or even work towards becoming a dive Master. The island's fun atmosphere and affordable training options make it an ideal destination for divers of all levels.
- Koh Samui and Koh Phangan: Slightly bigger, these tropical islands offer excellent snorkeling opportunities, stunning beaches for relaxation, and diverse wildlife encounters. Beyond their natural beauty, they also boast a vibrant nightlife scene, making them an appealing destination for both adventure seekers and those looking to unwind.

Visit us when national parks reopen!!!

Conclusion:
Planning Your Trip Around Seasonal ClosuresThailand’s marine national parks are a treasure trove of natural wonders. While seasonal closures may require adjustments to your itinerary, they are essential for preserving the delicate balance of these ecosystems. By planning your visit carefully, you can enjoy the best of Thailand’s marine biodiversity, whether during the open season or through alternative destinations that stay open year-round. From vibrant coral reefs to unique animals, these parks offer experiences that are well worth visiting. Respect the closures, travel responsibly, and prepare for an unforgettable journey into the heart of Thailand’s natural beauty.

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Myanmar Trip Report – April 2nd to 10th, 2025: Manta and giant frogfish in Mergui Archipelago!

25/4/2025

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April 2025 trip report in Mergui Archipelago

Scarlett Taylor

April greeted us with calm seas, radiant skies, and a boat brimming with international energy as divers from Belgium, France, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Italy stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Together, we set off on an unforgettable journey through the stunning Mergui Archipelago and the remote Burma Banks during our highly anticipated Manta Ray Expedition. Promising close encounters with ocean giants and elusive marine wonders, this trip didn’t just meet expectations—it exceeded them.

What made this expedition truly exceptional was the presence of Scarlett Taylor, a marine biologist from Canada with a Master’s degree in Biology from Dalhousie University. Scarlett brought a wealth of knowledge and infectious enthusiasm, sharing captivating insights into manta ray behavior, shark ecology, and the importance of protecting critical marine habitats. Drawing from her experience with the Manta Trust and her current work with Global Reef in Thailand, she hosted daily talks that deepened our understanding and appreciation of the incredible creatures we encountered beneath the waves.

Once we cleared immigration in Kawthoung, we set a course northwest into Burmese waters, ready to explore the untamed heart of the Andaman Sea.

Day 1: Warming Up in the North

Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the adventure ahead. A delicate Tiger Tail Seahorse nestled gracefully among the corals stole the show, while a curious Cowfish drifted by like a miniature UFO. We cruised alongside a shimmering school of Pickhandle Barracudas, silver scales catching the sunlight, as Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef edges with quiet authority. In the cracks and coral bommies, Butterflyfish flitted about while bold little Damselfish held their ground, helping us ease back into the rhythm of the deep.

Next, we headed to Ba Wei, where a striking black Ribbon Eel waved like a ribbon of ink from its burrow, and a pair of elegant Jann’s Pipefish twirled delicately among soft coral tendrils. At the cleaning stations, Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasses hovered with purpose, ready for business, while vibrant Angelfish and shimmering Anthias painted the reef in brilliant hues.

We capped off the day at South Twin, where a lively current brought in the big fish. Bluefin and Giant Trevallies swept past with power, joined by the lightning-fast Rainbow Runners. Yet even amid the rush, we paused to admire the more subtle beauty—Moorish Idols and Bannerfish swaying gracefully in the swell. As night fell, we slipped beneath the surface once more for a mysterious dive in South Twin Bay. There, Parrotfish dozed inside their protective mucous cocoons, and stealthy Lionfish prowled through rocky crevices, adding a touch of nighttime drama to an already magical day.

schooling bannerfish around a giant barrelsponge

pair of Burtterflyfish Andaman Sea liveaboard

Day 2: Shark Cave Adventure

We dedicated a full day to exploring the wonders of the Shark Cave area, diving between Shark Cave, Square Rock, and Submarine. Each site delivered in spades. A shy Bamboo Shark peeked from beneath a rocky ledge, while Tiger Tail Seahorses clung delicately to sea fans swaying in the shallows. Five Marble Rays glided past in graceful formation, skimming over coral gardens teeming with life—Tomato Clownfish darting through anemones, curious Cuttlefish drifting by, and schools of Batfish swirling like a slow-motion ballet overhead.

The macro magic was just as mesmerizing. Electric-hued Chromodoris nudibranchs lit up the reef, cryptic Decorator Crabs disguised themselves among the rubble, and alien-like Xeno Crabs gripped tightly to whip corals, looking like creatures from another planet. Meanwhile, Gold Spot Trevallies zipped through the shallows in gleaming flashes, as the reef bustled with a kaleidoscope of Wrasses, Groupers, and Triggerfish going about their vibrant, busy lives.

blotched sting ray in Myanmar diving trip

Day 3: Black Rock Brilliance

Black Rock never fails to impress—and today, it truly outdid itself. Across four exhilarating dives, we were treated to four manta ray sightings, including two unforgettable close encounters with majestic oceanic mantas. One glided directly overhead, lingering in the dappled sunlight as our bubbles rose to meet it—an awe-inspiring moment that left the entire group breathless with wonder.

Below and around us, schools of Big Eye Trevallies moved like rolling silver waves, creating a mesmerizing backdrop to the manta magic. In the reef’s quieter corners, diligent Harlequin Shrimps nibbled away at sea stars, their intricate patterns standing out against the rocky crevices. A ghostly White Devil Scorpionfish, nearly indistinguishable from the stone it rested on, reminded us just how much goes unnoticed until you truly look.

The entire reef pulsed with energy—Snappers darted in tight formation, Surgeonfish weaved through the chaos, and Sweetlips hovered with their signature pout. Black Rock delivered a sensory feast, once again proving why it’s one of the crown jewels of the Andaman Sea.

Day 4: North Twin & Into the Dee

At North Twin Pinnacle, the blue came alive with motion and grace. Four Eagle Rays soared past like underwater kites, effortlessly gliding through the open water. All around us, Fusiliers streamed in dazzling bursts of blue and yellow, like living confetti swirling on the current. Below, the reef buzzed with life—Snappers and regal Emperor Angelfish filled the coral-scape, occasionally parting to make way for larger visitors, including a sleek Tuna cruising by in the distance during our third dive at North Twin Reef.

eagle ray portrait myanmar diving highlight

That night, we descended into the inky darkness for a blackwater dive—an ethereal and otherworldly adventure. Suspended in the abyss, we drifted alongside glowing, translucent larval creatures, some so strange and delicate they seemed imagined. Many of these deep-sea drifters may never be seen again in their adult forms, making each encounter feel like a fleeting secret of the ocean. It was a surreal and spellbinding end to a truly magical day.

andaman sea blackwater diving with squid

Day 5 & 6: reaching the remove waters of Burma Bank

The Burma Banks unfolded before us like a dreamscape of the deep—vast, remote, and teeming with life. Over eight thrilling dives, we shared encounters that will be etched in memory for years to come. In the golden afternoon light, three Bull Sharks patrolled a ridge with quiet dominance, while a passing Tiger Shark sent a ripple of adrenaline through the group, hearts pounding in unison.

Beneath coral overhangs, Nurse Sharks lay in calm repose, while a juvenile Grey Reef Shark darted with youthful agility through a swirling school of Trevally. A graceful Turtle glided by, utterly unbothered by our presence, as if we were just another current in its path. Meanwhile, enormous Marble Rays stirred the sandy bottom with their powerful wings, sending Gobies and Sand perch scattering like leaves in the wind.

The Burma Banks delivered wild beauty in every direction—a raw and humbling reminder of the ocean’s power, mystery, and grace.

Day 7 & 8: Western Rocky Farewel

As we made our way back toward the Western Rocky area, Seafan Forest welcomed us with one last breathtaking surprise—a graceful Hammerhead Shark gliding past in a silent, unforgettable flyby (unfortunately not captured by any camera!).

Tucked among the swaying sea fans, another perfectly camouflaged Tigertail Seahorse revealed itself, while Stonefish lurked in plain sight, waiting to be discovered. In the shallows, Cuttlefish shimmered with vibrant color displays, their bodies flashing like living neon signs. Our macro luck held steady with one final encounter—a charming pair of Harlequin Shrimps, closing the loop on a week of small, spectacular finds.

At The Cave and Eagle Rock, the weird and wonderful made their curtain call. A hulking Giant Frogfish rested motionless in the open, its shape barely distinguishable from the coral around it. A cleverly hidden Elbow Crab and a regal Slipper Lobster reminded us once more that in the underwater world, magic hides in the details—and the surprises truly never stop.

Thanks to Gregor Koschicek for this stunning video of the trip !

As we sailed back toward Thailand, the sun dipped below the horizon, closing the chapter on a week filled with manta ballets, thrilling shark encounters, and kaleidoscopic coral gardens. With Scarlett’s expert insights adding depth to every dive, and a spirited crew of divers from around the world sharing the experience, this Manta Ray Expedition became more than a trip—it became a story we’ll be telling for years.

Already dreaming of the next one? So are we...

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South and North Andaman Sea, Thailand: March 23rd to 31st, 2025. Whale Shark Expedition

24/4/2025

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For this Whale Shark Expedition, we were thrilled to welcome aboard the M/V Smiling Seahorse a diverse group of divers from Romania, France, the USA, and Australia. Adding to the excitement, we were joined by Josh Johnson, a marine biologist specializing in whale shark conservation. Based in Koh Tao, Josh is a graduate of the University of Plymouth’s BSc Ocean Science and Marine Conservation program.

Josh shared fascinating insights into whale shark biology, ecology, and conservation:
“Although they are the largest fish in the world, they remain one of the least studied sharks globally, especially in Thai waters. With so much still to learn about them, it is crucial to explore new methods for monitoring their migration patterns and feeding hotspots. This allows us to implement the best conservation strategies to protect these gentle giants.”

Setting sail from Phuket on March 23rd, we first explored Koh Lanta National Park and Koh Tarutao National Park for three days before heading north to discover the wonders of the Similan and Surin National Parks. Each of these marine sanctuaries is a jewel of the Andaman Sea, boasting a unique blend of stunning underwater landscapes, thriving marine life, and vibrant coral ecosystems.
   •   Koh Lanta National Park is renowned for its dramatic limestone formations and rich marine biodiversity.
   •   Koh Tarutao, the largest national park in the Andaman, remains a pristine paradise with spectacular reefs and abundant pelagic life.
   •   The Similan Islands, world-famous for their breathtaking granite boulders and crystal-clear waters, offer incredible diving experiences with flourishing coral gardens and deep pinnacles.
   •   Surin National Park, home to the legendary Richelieu Rock, features one of Thailand’s most spectacular dive sites, teeming with marine life and a prime location for large pelagic encounters.

This unforgettable expedition combined breathtaking scenery, exceptional dives, and invaluable knowledge, leaving us all with a deeper appreciation for whale sharks and their conservation.

Day 1 – Koh Lanta National Park

Our check dive at Koh Ha Lagoon provided a smooth and scenic introduction to the trip. Among the coral bommies, we spotted a perfectly camouflaged Ornate Ghost Pipefish, swaying gently with the current, while a curious Coral Grouper patrolled its reef territory. Schools of Yellowback Fusiliers darted through the water, accompanied by striking Emperor Angelfish, adding bursts of vibrant color to the scene.

In the afternoon and evening, we explored Hin Mueang and Hin Daeng, where the reefs were teeming with life. A Clown Frogfish, perfectly still and expertly blended into a sponge, caught our attention. Nearby, pairs of Ornate Ghost Pipefish hovered delicately in the water. Overhead, Red-Toothed Triggerfish swirled in mesmerizing formations, while Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef in search of prey. Schools of Rainbow Runners flashed by in unison, and among the hard corals, we admired a striking Peacock Grouper and a Blue-Barred Parrotfish lazily grazing.

butterflyfish in similan islands, elephant head rock

Day 2 – Koh Tarutao National Park

The morning began at Hin Paad Mile, where Giant Trevallies moved in synchronized schools, their silver bodies flashing as they sliced through the water. Beneath a coral ledge, a massive Potato Grouper rested, watching us with a slow, deliberate gaze. Around us, schools of Bengal Snappers and Blue-and-Gold Fusiliers shimmered, creating a breathtaking display of color and motion.

At Stonehenge, the highlight was a perfectly camouflaged Tigertail Seahorse, delicately gripping onto a sea fan. Nearby, an Indian Walkman lay in wait on the sand, its intricate fins blending seamlessly with the ocean floor.

school of trevalli in tarutao national park thailand

We ended the day with a mesmerizing Blackwater dive, drifting in the darkness while witnessing an extraordinary parade of tiny pelagic creatures rising from the depths--baby squids, larval fish, and even a tiny pelagic seahorse making a rare appearance.

blackwater diving in thailand - juvenile fish

blackwater diving photo of a pufferfish baby

black water diving in south andaman thailand

Day 3 – Koh Lanta National Park

Before crossing to the Similan Islands, we completed one last dive at Hin Mueang, where we revisited our Clown Frogfish and discovered a few new additions to the scene. Moorish Idols glided effortlessly above the reef, a school of Twinstripe Fusiliers darted between coral formations, and a well-camouflaged Bearded Scorpionfish lay hidden among the rocks, waiting patiently for unsuspecting prey.

Day 4 – Similan Islands, Similan National Park

Our dive at Shark Fin Reef welcomed us with a breathtaking spectacle of marine life—schools of Lunar Fusiliers swirled around us in a dazzling display, while Parrotfish crunched noisily on the reef, shaping the underwater landscape with every bite.

At West of Eden, we encountered a playful Octopus, shifting colors in a mesmerizing dance before our eyes. A Rock Mover Wrasse skillfully flipped coral rubble in search of hidden prey, while a Psychedelic Batwing Seaslug nestled discreetly in a crevice, adding a splash of vibrant color to the reef.

At Elephant Head Rock, the current carried us effortlessly past Giant Trevallies hunting in the blue, while a pair of Sweetlips hovered serenely beneath an overhang. In a sandy patch, a White Tip Reef Shark lay motionless, completely undisturbed by our presence.

We ended the day with a captivating night dive at Turtle Rock, where Basket Stars unfurled their intricate arms to feed, and Decorator Crabs, masterfully disguised with sponges and algae, scuttled stealthily across the seabed.

psychedelic sea slug batwing thailand south andaman

school of trevalli in thailand hin muang lanta

Day 5 – Similan Islands, Similan National Park

Xmas Point welcomed us with a vibrant display of reef life—from the dazzling flashes of Blue Striped Snappers to the sleek, steady glide of a Barracuda lurking in the distance.

At 3 Trees, a Blue Spotted Stingray lay half-buried in the sand, perfectly camouflaged, while a massive Potato Grouper loomed near the coral formations, surveying its domain.

Meanwhile, Koh Bon Pinnacle and West Ridge were alive with movement, as schools of Rainbow Runners and Longnosed Emperors wove effortlessly through the currents, creating a mesmerizing underwater ballet.

giant seafan in similan island's three trees

beautiful gorgonean in similan islands thailand

Day 6 – Similan National Park

Returning to Koh Bon Pinnacle and West Ridge, we were greeted by Batfish, curiously circling around us, while Barracudas held their ground against the current.

Later, at Koh Tachai Pinnacle, we navigated through massive boulders draped in soft coral, discovering Lobsters tucked away in crevices, more Barracudas patrolling the reef, and a sleek Black Tip Reef Shark gliding effortlessly past—an exhilarating finale to an unforgettable dive.

Days 7 & 8 – Surin National Park

Our final two days at Richelieu Rock were nothing short of spectacular. The site was teeming with life--Ornate Ghost Pipefish hovered gracefully among feather stars, Tigertail Seahorses clung to delicate sea whips, and Porcelain Crabs filtered plankton with meticulous precision. Banded Stick Pipefish wove through the reef, while Big Eye Trevallies and Giant Trevallies darted back and forth in a relentless hunting frenzy.

In the blue, schools of Barracudas hung motionless, suspended in perfect formation. We were mesmerized by a vast mixed school of Rainbow Runners, Emperors, and Big Eye Trevallies, moving in unison like a single, fluid entity. Red Snappers lurked near the coral formations, adding the final flourish to an already unforgettable experience.

As we sailed back to Ranong, the excitement and memories of the trip lingered among our group. The Whale Shark Expedition had given us not only breathtaking encounters with Thailand’s marine giants but also a deeper appreciation for the intricate beauty of the Andaman Sea’s underwater world.

Until next time, we carry with us the wonders of the deep and the hope for future encounters with the gentle giants we strive to protect.

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Best of North and South Andaman Sea, Thailand: March 14 - March 21, 2025

28/3/2025

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Our latest adventure took us across the best dive sites of the North and South Andaman Sea, Thailand. This week, we welcomed guests from the USA, Germany, France, Switzerland, and Israel aboard the Smiling Seahorse in Ranong, eager to explore the wonders of the Surin, Similan, Lanta, Tarutao and Koh Phiphi National Parks. Each of these parks offers unique marine landscapes, from vibrant coral gardens to dramatic underwater pinnacles, promising an unforgettable journey beneath the waves.

Day 1: A Colorful Start in the Surin National Park

Our first dive at Koh Chi was a gentle check dive, allowing everyone to get comfortable while enjoying the sights of a friendly hawksbill turtle gliding through the reef. Schools of blue-tailed snappers created a mesmerizing display, while a tiny yellow boxfish peeked out from the coral, amusing us with its clumsy movements. Among the vibrant reef, we spotted angelfish, fusiliers, and parrotfish darting between the coral formations.

emperors and trevalli hunting in Richelieu Rock

The second and third dives brought us to the legendary Richelieu Rock, where life teemed in every direction. Enormous schools of rainbow runners and jacks swirled together, accompanied by long-face emperor fish patrolling the depths. A delicate tiger tail seahorse swayed with the current, while ghost pipefish skillfully camouflaged themselves among soft corals. Peering into crevices, we discovered peacock mantis shrimp and flabellina nudibranchs adding bursts of color to the scene. Surgeonfish, fairy basslets, and Moorish idols flitted through the coral gardens, making for a lively spectacle.
For our night dive at Richelieu Rock, the mysterious "green monster"—a dense thermocline—rolled in, adding a touch of adventure to the dive. Despite the water movement, we enjoyed the eerie sight of moray eels hunting under the cover of darkness, while countless crabs and shrimps scuttled across the reef. A porcupinefish hovered nearby, watching the activity unfold.

Day 2: Entering Similan National Park at Koh Tachai and Koh Bon

At Koh Tachai, our first dive began with a fascinating scene: a pair of white-banded cleaner shrimp diligently grooming a large moray eel. Nearby, two painted spiny lobsters peeked out from their rocky hiding spots. Jackfish patrolled the blue, moving in pairs as they hunted in synchrony. Amid the bustling reef, we found butterflyfish, wrasses, and gobies going about their daily routines.
On our second dive at Koh Tachai, we drifted along with a large school of batfish, their graceful movements mesmerizing against the backdrop of the deep blue. The reef revealed hidden gems like a Maldives sponge sea snail and a pustulose wart slug, while angelfish and bannerfish weaved between the corals.
Koh Bon was our next destination, where fantastic visibility allowed us to fully appreciate the marine spectacle. A big family of batfish greeted us in the bay, their silver bodies flashing in the sunlight. As we ventured further, a massive school of yellow snappers engulfed us, moving as one. Mantis shrimp darted between the rocks, while ghost pipefish hovered delicately among the soft corals. The presence of giant groupers and the occasional passing fusilier added to the excitement.

Happy Birthday!!!

Day 3: Exploring the Similan Island

Our morning dive at Three Trees introduced us to a resting hawksbill turtle, peacefully nestled among the corals. Pipefish drifted along the sandy bottom, while rays and lobsters lurked under overhangs. The reef was alive with fairy basslets, fusiliers, and wrasses, their colors creating a dazzling underwater display.

At Elephant Head Rock, we navigated through the boulder formations, where porcelain crabs clung to their anemone homes. A small family of tunas cruised by, accompanied by schools of fusiliers and snappers. West of Eden offered a spectacular sighting of a Sagaminopteron psychedelicum nudibranch, alongside an octopus skillfully changing colors to blend with its surroundings. A sea snake made a brief appearance, weaving gracefully through the reef.

As the sun began to set, we returned to Koh Bon, where a large school of milkfish swam past, shimmering in the golden light.

how cute is this baby clown triggerfish???

psychedelic batwing sea slug, nudibranch hunting in thailand

pair of ornate ghost pipefish in Thailand

Day 4: Lanta National Park : Macro Wonders and Pelagic Thrill

Our first dive at Hin Nam was filled with delicate discoveries, including ghost pipefish blending seamlessly with the reef and a juvenile clown triggerfish darting between the corals. Later, at Hin Daeng, we encountered tiny juvenile sweetlips moving in their signature wavy dance, while juvenile angelfish added a splash of color to the rocky crevices.

Hin Muang provided thrilling action as tunas and rainbow runners hunted in the open water. Schools of batfish hovered effortlessly, while hundreds of red-tooth triggerfish filled the blue and a magical encounter with a clown frogfish. Our night dive at Hin Daeng revealed an entirely different world, where helmet crabs and decorator crabs scuttled across the seabed, and moray eels—both the common and zebra varieties—prowled for prey

pretty reef scene with moon wrass on top of soft coral

Day 5: Tarutao National Park : Cobia, Jacks, and Mysterious Creature

At 8 Mile, the dive site was alive with schools of large jacks and pairs of smaller hunters weaving through the reef. Among the coral, a beautiful tiger tail seahorse clung to its perch. Snappers and damselfish formed a colorful backdrop as we drifted through the site.
Stonehenge provided an awe-inspiring moment as we encountered a massive lion’s mane jellyfish, its trailing tentacles sheltering tiny fish. Blue dragons and an eagle ray gliding by added to the magic.
At Koh Taru, porcupinefish gathered in abundance, while southern stingrays rested on the sandy bottom. Koh Sawang brought sightings of comet fish and a well-camouflaged devil scorpionfish lurking among the coral.
We also had great encounters on blackwater dives with Indian Halibut and cusk eel!!!

blackwater diving in thailand indian halibut

fantastic finds on blackwater diving in the andaman sea: cusk eel

many cephalopods in the andaman sea, especially on blackwater dives

Day 6: Lanta National Park

Returning to Hin Daeng, we found zebra and honeycomb moray eels slithering through the reef, while a school of batfish hovered gracefully nearby. Hin Muang offered another chance to observe ghost pipefish and playful juvenile clownfish, along with a tiny yellow boxfish hiding in a coral crevice.
Our final dives at Koh Haa brought us face-to-face with a hawksbill turtle cruising through the Cathedral, while thousands of glassfish filled the Chimney, creating a mesmerizing, swirling effect.

clown frogfish in Koh Lanta national park

clown frogfish with red tooth triggerfish in the background

Soft coral is thriving in Thai water

Day 7: A Grand Farewel

On our last day, Koh Bida Nok did not disappoint, with blacktip reef sharks and a majestic leopard shark making an appearance. At Shark Point, the grand finale included hundreds of yellowtail barracudas weaving through the water, while devil scorpionfish lay in wait among the coral.
With unforgettable dives behind us, we made our way back to Phuket, bidding farewell to our wonderful guests after an incredible week exploring Thailand’s best dive sites. Until next time, the Andaman Sea will be waiting!

Happy Faces cocktail on The MV Smiling Seahorse

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Liveaboard Dive Trip Report: Mergui Archipelago, March 6-12, 2025

18/3/2025

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At least 4 Mantas sightings this week and so much more!

Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier, MV Smiling Seahorse embarked on an unforgettable dive safari into the stunning Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar. After clearing Thai immigration, our enthusiastic guests from France’s Galathée Group joined us as we proceeded to Kawthoung for entry formalities into Myanmar. Once completed, we set course northwest to begin our adventure in this remote and pristine marine paradise.

Our playground this week!
The Mergui Archipelago is a secluded paradise, boasting over 800 islands with dramatic limestone cliffs, mangroves, white sandy beaches, and vibrant coral reefs. Home to an incredible diversity of marine life, from macro critters to pelagic giants, it remains one of the last frontiers for divers seeking untouched underwater landscapes and thrilling encounters with oceanic mantas, reef sharks, and rare fish species.

Beautiful Juvenile Lined Wrasse in the Mergui Archipelago

Day 1: Exploring the First Dive Sites
Check Dive at High Rock

Our adventure began with a check dive at High Rock, where we were immediately welcomed by schools of yellowtail barracuda and yellowback fusiliers. Among the reef, we spotted moray eels, nudibranchs, and a beautiful thornback boxfish, also known as the cowfish. The highlight of the dive was an elusive tiger tail seahorse and a well-camouflaged stonefish lurking among the corals.

Heathy and colourful reef from the Mergui Archipelago

Tiger Tail Seahorse at High Rock Mergui Archipelago

Dive 2 at Bawe (Rainbow Rock)
A spectacular site showcasing an array of colorful soft corals in shades of yellow, blue, pink, white, and red. Marine life was abundant, with Durban dancing shrimps, a baby yellow boxfish, giant moray eels, crabs, and scorpionfish in both juvenile and adult stages. Among the highlights were chromodoris annulata, a ring angelfish, a yellow-edged moray eel, a school of circular batfish, and the fascinating blue dragon nudibranch.

Colorful Mc Cosker's flasher wrasse in the Mergui Archipelago

Dive 3 at South Twin
This site offered a mesmerizing blend of macro life and schooling fish. Notable sightings included banded stick pipefish, chromodoris annulata, blue dragon nudibranchs, and a large school of epaulette surgeonfish. We also encountered a Maldivian sponge snail and an impressive array of reef fish, including peacock grouper, common lionfish, and twinstripe fusiliers.
Night Dive
As darkness fell, we encountered fascinating nocturnal creatures, including cleaning partner shrimps, scorpionfish, octopuses, decorated crabs, giant moray eels, blue and white flatworms, and more blue dragons.

Beautiful Harlequin Shrimp in the Mergui Archipelago

Harlequin and Durban Dancing Shrimps in the Mergui Archipelago

Day 2: A Day of Manta Encounters at Black Rock

Black Rock delivered one of the most thrilling experiences of the trip, with at least three different oceanic manta rays gracing us with their presence. Schools of rainbow runners, yellowtail barracuda, pickhandle barracuda, and bigeye trevally swirled around us. We also spotted striped bristletooth surgeonfish, juvenile yellow band fusiliers, and several macro treasures such as red and white clown frogfish, a giant white frogfish, and an orange frogfish. A great barracuda receiving a spa treatment from cleaner wrasses was another highlight. Additional reef fish seen included bicolor cleaner wrasse, blue and gold fusiliers, and six striped soap fish.

Majestic Oceanic Manta Ray gliding above the reef at Black Rock Mergui Archipelago

Day 3: Diving Three Islets & Village Visit

Square Rock
Featuring tigertail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, chromodoris nudibranchs, a school of yellowtail barracuda, purple flabellina, and a magnificent marble ray.
Shark Cave
This site amazed us with its massive school of juvenile blue and gold fusiliers, chromodoris annulata, a baby tiger tail seahorse, and an impressive array of reef fish, including blacktip grouper and oriental sweetlips.
Submarine
Encounters included a bamboo shark sleeping among the rocks, a stonefish, trevallies, rainbow runners, wahoo, a massive school of yellow snappers, and porcelain crabs.
Village Visit - Khun Pi Law
During snack time, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque village with a white sandy beach and a beautiful Buddha temple, offering a glimpse into the local culture before heading back for our night dive.
Night Dive at Shark Cave
Decorated crabs, white-eye moray eels, Durban dancing shrimps, baby slipper lobsters, basket star shrimps, blue and white flatworms, blue dragons, and tiny tigertail seahorses, including a very small baby one, made this dive truly magical.

Banded stick pipe fish on sea star at The Mergui Archipelago

Day 4 & 5: Manta Encounters & Spectacular Reefs

Diving at Sea Fan Forest, Western Rocky, and Eagle’s Rock brought us a quick but breathtaking visit from a massive oceanic manta, harlequin shrimps, Mc Cosker’s dwarf wrasse, cuttlefish mating, and large schools of fusiliers.
Highlights at The Cave, The Islets, and Eagle’s Rock included schools of yellow-lined fusiliers, moray eels, crabs, yellowtail barracuda, five-line snapper, twin stripe fusiliers, chromodoris annulata with its eggs, Maldivian sponge snails, and fimbriate moray eels.
Day five's blackwater dive was a thrilling experience featuring larval octopuses, pelagic seahorses, mantis shrimps, flounders, veliger pelagic snails, triggerfish, squids, lizardfish, and krill. The night ended with a fantastic BBQ, celebrating the trip with our amazing French group.

Tiny cephalopod Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago

Larval stage of Flounders Blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago

Pelaic Seahorse drifting in the open ocean during Blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago

Close up of pelagic Seahorse Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago

Cuttle fish Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago

Day 6: Final Dive at Dendro’s Pea

Our final dive site, Dendro’s Peak, provided a fitting end to an extraordinary journey. We encountered Jenkins rays, schools of fusiliers, bigeye trevally, rabbitfish, and an incredible variety of reef fish, including yellowfin goatfish, halfmoon grouper, and mimic sabretooth blennies.

Healthy Soft Coral reef in the Mergui Archipelago

Conclusion
The Mergui Archipelago never ceases to amaze with its diverse marine life, stunning reefs, and pelagic action. With oceanic mantas, frogfish, seahorses, and a vast array of macro critters, this trip was truly unforgettable. We can’t wait to return for another adventure in these incredible waters!

Manta sighting in the Mergui Archipelago

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Trip Report: Burma Expedition aboard MV Smiling Seahorse (February 26 - March 6, 2025)

15/3/2025

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Departing from Ranong Badin Pier, our journey began with the usual Thai immigration process before setting course for Kawthung, Burma. Once the formalities were completed, we sailed northwest into the vast and remote Mergui Archipelago, a hidden gem of the Andaman Sea. With over 800 islands scattered across the region, Mergui is a paradise for divers, featuring towering limestone formations, soft coral gardens, and thriving marine biodiversity. This journey brought together an international group of adventurers from the UK, USA, Taiwan, Germany, Switzerland, France, and Thailand, all eager to explore this pristine underwater world.

Day 1: First Encounters... Check Dive at High Rock

A gentle check dive to start the trip, where we encountered schools of yellowtail barracuda and yellowback fusiliers gliding over the reef. Moray eels peeked out from rocky crevices, and macro lovers were delighted to spot nudibranchs. The highlight was the sighting of two juvenile tiger tail seahorses camouflaged among the sea fans.

Dive 2 at Ba wei, aka Rainbow Rock
True to its name, Rainbow Rock boasted a colorful display of soft corals in yellow, blue, pink, white, and red. The reef was bustling with Durban dancing shrimps, baby yellow boxfish, and giant moray eels lurking in the shadows. Crabs, both juvenile and adult scorpionfish, and the striking chromodoris annulata nudibranch added to the spectacle. Among the angelfish, a beautiful ring angelfish made a rare appearance.
Dive 3 at South Twin
This dive site delivered with a fantastic variety of marine life. Banded stick pipefish hovered near the bottom, while blue dragons and chromodoris annulata nudibranchs decorated the reef. A school of dusky batfish moved in synchrony, and an impressive Maldivian sponge snail was spotted near a cluster of sea fans. The biggest excitement came when a grey reef shark cruised by, adding a touch of adrenaline to the dive.
Night Dive
Under the cover of darkness, the reef transformed. Cleaning partner shrimps tended to their clients, while a devil scorpionfish lay in wait. Decorated crabs in shades of yellow and pink scuttled across the seabed, alongside red coral crabs and the striking blue dragon nudibranch.

Day 2: Black Rock Spectacle Black Rock – The Jewel of the North

Located in the far northern reaches of the Mergui Archipelago, Black Rock is one of Burma’s most exhilarating dive sites. Rising from the depths of the open sea, this isolated pinnacle attracts pelagic species, making it a hotspot for large schools of fish and occasional visits from oceanic giants.
The day's dives at Black Rock did not disappoint. We swam alongside a massive school of bigeye jacks and yellowtail barracuda. Juvenile yellow spot fusiliers darted between the coral-covered slopes, while mantis shrimps and porcelain crabs found refuge in crevices. Nudibranch enthusiasts were thrilled with sightings of chromodoris annulata and chromodoris risbecia pulchella. The grand spectacle of the day came when an oceanic manta ray gracefully soared above us, followed closely by a giant white frogfish resting on a ledge. Other highlights included an octopus displaying its camouflage skills, a juvenile African pompano, and a lurking cobia.

Blackwater Dive
Venturing into the darkness, we encountered ghostly planktonic creatures—larvae of flounder, sea butterflies, shrimps, and free-swimming larvaceans, creating an ethereal underwater experience.

Day 3: Three Islets – A Macro Wonderland Square Roc

This dive kicked off with tiger tail seahorses clinging to gorgonian sea fans, while orange spotted pipefish wove through the reef. Chromodoris nudibranchs added splashes of color, and a marble ray rested on the sandy bottom. The rare mordilla brocki nudibranch made an appearance, and to our delight, an eagle ray soared past.

Shark Cave
A site known for its vibrant marine life, Shark Cave was teeming with schools of juvenile pickhandle barracuda and a massive congregation of blue-and-gold fusiliers. Pharaoh cuttlefish engaged in mesmerizing mating displays, shifting colors right before our eyes. A banded krait sea snake glided through the coral, while chromodoris annulata nudibranchs lined the rock walls. Adding to the excitement, a pregnant giant pufferfish hovered near a coral outcrop.
Submarine Reef
Stonefish expertly blended into the reef, while trevallies and rainbow runners dashed across the blue. A giant titan triggerfish patrolled the area, and decorated sea urchins provided shelter for small reef critters. A massive school of yellow snappers blanketed the site, making for an unforgettable dive.
Shark Cave (Night Dive)
This nocturnal dive revealed an array of decorated crabs, Durban dancing shrimps, and baby slipper lobsters. A basket star shrimp hid among the reef, and we even spotted a ghostly wahoo passing by in the distance.

Day 4 & 5: Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky – Conservation Efforts Sea Fan Forest

A breathtaking dive site characterized by towering sea fans, home to tigertail seahorses, stonefish, and harlequin shrimps. Our dive team dedicated two dives to removing a massive ghost net draped across the east face of the reef, successfully freeing the site of this hazard.

Western Rocky– The Cave
This legendary site, featuring a tunnel cutting through the island, offered sightings of moray eels, fusiliers, and lurking stonefish. A surprise encounter with a giant red frogfish at the safety stop made for a memorable end to the day.
Eagle Rock
Sunset diving here brought sightings of octopuses posing for cameras, baby lobsters, Maldivian sponge snails, and marble shrimps.

Day 6: Dendro’s Peak – The Grand Final

Our final dive took place at Dendro’s Peak, a vibrant seamount bustling with marine life. Schools of giant trevallies, rainbow runners, and wahoo created an action-packed scene. Yellowtail barracuda and bigeye trevallies swirled around us, while mantis peacock shrimps and white-eyed moray eels hid among the rocks. A fitting end to an incredible expedition!

As we made our way back to Kawthung, we celebrated with the traditional Burmese beer before returning to Ranong, reminiscing about the unforgettable encounters of the past week. Until next time, Burma!

Another unforgettable adventure with the MV Smiling Seahorse!

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18 FEB 2025 7 days North Andaman: Diving Surin and Similan national parks

13/3/2025

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Liveaboard trip repot Thailand North Andaman February 2025

Best of North Andaman Aboard MV Smiling Seahorse (18–24 February 2025)

Departing from Phuket, our international group of divers from the UK, USA, Germany, Australia, France, Sweden, Canada, and Austria embarked on an exciting journey through the northern Andaman Sea. Our itinerary took us through the spectacular dive sites of Similan National Park and Surin National Park, with the highlight dives at Koh Tachai and Richelieu Rock.

Day 1: Similan National Park

Check dive at Shark Fin Reef (Similan#3): Our adventure began with a relaxed check dive, where we encountered giant trevally, dogtooth tuna, large families of Clownfish and a striking yellow adult boxfish. Hidden among the sand were blind partner gobies and their shrimp companions, while a curious hawksbill turtle made a brief appearance.
Dive 2 at West of Eden (Similan#7): This site delighted us with a mix of macro and pelagic encounters. We spotted Moyer’s dragonet, a juvenile white-blotch razor wrasse, and an adult rockmover wrasse darting between the corals. Devil scorpionfish lay camouflaged near giant clams, while McCosker’s dwarf wrasse shimmered in the shallows. Schools of blue-lined fusiliers and bluefin trevally kept the dive lively.
Dive 3 at Elephant Head Rock: Dramatic swim-throughs and rocky outcrops set the stage for sightings of porcelain crabs, ribbon eels, and a juvenile white-spotted boxfish. Giant trevally and bluefin trevally patrolled the deeper waters, while a stunning blue dragon nudibranch was spotted gliding over a sponge-covered boulder.
Dive 4 - Night Dive at Turtle Rock: Our first night dive introduced us to an active nocturnal scene. Moray eels emerged to hunt, bigfin reef squid hovered in the dark, and black-spotted egg cowries nestled among the soft corals. Crabs and shrimps scuttled about, while a sleepy sealface pufferfish rested near a coral head.

Day 2: Similan National Park to Koh Bon

Dive 1 at Christmas Point (#9): A stunning start to the day, with sightings of a juvenile emperor angelfish, Napoleon wrasse, and a black-blotched porcupinefish. A vibrant mix of clown triggerfish, humpback unicornfish, and spotted boxfish kept us entertained.
Dive 2 at Three Trees (#9): Green and hawksbill turtles glided past us, while a massive school of bluestripe and twospot snapper swirled over the reef. A Napoleon wrasse made a brief appearance, and a blue-spotted stingray rested on the sandy bottom.
Dive 3 at Koh Bon Ridge: We encountered an array of groupers, including camouflage groupers and blue-lined groupers, alongside curious porcupinefish and a school of needlefish.
Dive 4 at Koh Bon Bay (Optional Blackwater Dive): One group explored the bay, where baby blacktip sharks, barracudas, and octopuses were spotted. The blackwater dive team encountered mesmerizing larval creatures, including sea elephants, mantis shrimp, anemone larvae, and tiny squid drifting in the darkness.

Day 3: Koh Bon to Koh Tachai

Dive 1 at Koh Bon Pinnacle: This deep pinnacle delivered thrilling encounters with longfin and dusky batfish, a school of barracuda, and a massive marble grouper.
Dive 2 at North Ridge and West Ridge: Giant trevallies and tuna passed by in strong currents. A Maldivian sponge snail was spotted on a rocky ledge, while an octopus put on a stunning display, changing colors as it moved between coral heads.
Dives 3 and 4 at Koh Tachai Pinnacle: This was one of the most breathtaking dive spots of the trip! The site was teeming with life—giant trevally, bluefin trevally, and dogtooth tuna hunted in coordinated bursts. A “spiny lobster city” revealed dozens of lobsters tucked into the rocky crevices, and a group of circular batfish hovered gracefully above the reef.

Day 4: Surin National Park

Dive 1 at Yellow Rock (Rainbow Rock): An explosion of color awaited us, with gold-spotted and painted sweetlips, African pompano, and schools of barracuda. Napoleon wrasse and a broadclub cuttlefish added to the excitement.
Dive 2 at Torinla Pinnacle: The legendary Picachu nudibranch made an appearance, alongside big marble groupers, giant moray eels, and triggerfish darting across the coral slopes.
Dive 3 at Ao Pakkard: We drifted among a school of baby blacktail barracudas, garden eels, and blue-spotted stingrays. A Chromodoris nudibranch clung to a sponge, adding a splash of color.
Dive 4 - Night Dive at Ao Pakkard: Our last night dive featured red coral crabs, tiger cowries, and banded boxer shrimp hiding among the anemones. Giant moray eels were actively hunting in the moonlit waters.

goby on sea cucumber artistic underwater photo

Day 5: Cathedral-Like Pinnacle Dive
A truly magical site, with towering rock formations creating an awe-inspiring underwater landscape. Highlights included schools of blacktail and pickhandle barracudas, schools of cobias, and hunting big-eye trevallies. We spotted a potato grouper, a ghost pipefish, and a flabellina exoptata nudibranch. Juvenile oriental sweetlips and angelfish danced along the reef, while a tiger cardinalfish was seen guarding its eggs.

diving with big school of fish in Similans

Day 6: Richelieu Rock – A Spectacular Finale

Our final dives at Richelieu Rock were the perfect ending to an already fantastic trip. The ornate ghost pipefish were back, adding an element of mystery to the site. A massive gang of giant trevally, golden trevally, longnose emperor, and rainbow runners formed a hunting frenzy over the reef. Schools of bigeye trevally created mesmerizing tornado-like formations, while tomato anemonefish hovered protectively over their eggs. A giant marble grouper lingered near a crevice, and a stunning blue dragon nudibranch was spotted among the soft corals.

Final Thoughts
From the vibrant reefs of Similan National Park to the thrilling currents of Koh Tachai and the marine wonderland of Richelieu Rock, this trip truly showcased the best of North Andaman diving. With breathtaking encounters, stunning marine biodiversity, and an enthusiastic group of divers, this adventure aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse was nothing short of unforgettable.

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Thailand's Marine National Parks : why seasonal closures are key to their beauty

The Importance of Seasonal Closure of Marine National Parks in Thailand

I'm visiting Thailand between May and October. Where can I go diving?

Myanmar Trip Report – April 2nd to 10th, 2025: Manta and giant frogfish in Mergui Archipelago!

Day 1: Warming Up in the North

Day 2: Shark Cave Adventure

Day 3: Black Rock Brilliance

Day 4: North Twin & Into the Dee

Day 5 & 6: reaching the remove waters of Burma Bank

Day 7 & 8: Western Rocky Farewel

South and North Andaman Sea, Thailand: March 23rd to 31st, 2025. Whale Shark Expedition

Day 1 – Koh Lanta National Park

Day 2 – Koh Tarutao National Park

Day 3 – Koh Lanta National Park

Day 4 – Similan Islands, Similan National Park

Day 5 – Similan Islands, Similan National Park

Day 6 – Similan National Park

Days 7 & 8 – Surin National Park

Best of North and South Andaman Sea, Thailand: March 14 - March 21, 2025

Day 1: A Colorful Start in the Surin National Park

Day 2: Entering ​Similan National Park at Koh Tachai and Koh Bon

Day 3: Exploring the Similan Island

Day 4: Lanta National Park : Macro Wonders and Pelagic Thrill

Day 5: Tarutao National Park : Cobia, Jacks, and Mysterious Creature

Day 6: Lanta National Park

Day 7: A Grand Farewel

Liveaboard Dive Trip Report: Mergui Archipelago, March 6-12, 2025

At least 4 Mantas sightings this week and so much more!

Day 1: Exploring the First Dive SitesCheck Dive at High Rock

Day 2: A Day of Manta Encounters at Black Rock

Day 3: Diving Three Islets & Village Visit

Day 4 & 5: Manta Encounters & Spectacular Reefs

Day 6: Final Dive at Dendro’s Pea

Trip Report: Burma Expedition aboard MV Smiling Seahorse (February 26 - March 6, 2025)

Day 1: First Encounters... Check Dive at High Rock

Day 2: Black Rock Spectacle Black Rock – The Jewel of the North

Day 3: Three Islets – A Macro Wonderland Square Roc

Day 4 & 5: Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky – Conservation Efforts Sea Fan Forest

Day 6: Dendro’s Peak – The Grand Final

18 FEB 2025 7 days North Andaman: Diving Surin and Similan national parks

Best of North Andaman Aboard MV Smiling Seahorse (18–24 February 2025)

​Day 1: Similan National Park

​Day 2: Similan National Park to Koh Bon

​Day 3: Koh Bon to Koh Tachai

​Day 4: Surin National Park

​Day 6: Richelieu Rock – A Spectacular Finale

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Day 2: Entering Similan National Park at Koh Tachai and Koh Bon

Day 1: Exploring the First Dive Sites
Check Dive at High Rock

Day 1: Similan National Park

Day 2: Similan National Park to Koh Bon

Day 3: Koh Bon to Koh Tachai

Day 4: Surin National Park

Day 6: Richelieu Rock – A Spectacular Finale