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The Paper Nautilus (Argonaut): The Ocean’s Most Fragile Cephalopod

12/5/2026

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Paper Nautilus Argonaut Blackwater diving  andaman sea Thailand Myanmar Scuba Diving Liveaboard Cruisea

All about the Paper Nautilus

Paper Nautilus Argonaut Blackwater diving  andaman sea Thailand Myanmar Scuba Diving Liveaboard Cruisea
Female Paper Nautilus have this distinctive shell on this back
Female Paper Nautilus drifting during blackwater dive
Argonauts can be found itching a ride on passing salp during blackwater dive
We first encountered this incredible little creature while Blackwater diving in 2017. At the time, we had absolutely no idea what we were looking at. ​
The first Argonaut we encountered was apparently a female, as male are 10 times smaller (rarely passing the size of 2cm) and dont have a shell.

Since then, we’ve been lucky enough to spot Paper Nautiluses many more times — including during blackwater dives in the Similan Islands — and finally managed to capture a few decent photos.
After some research, we discovered this strange and beautiful animal is called a Paper Nautilus, also known as an Argonaut.
Despite the name, the Paper Nautilus is not actually related to the true nautilus. It belongs to the octopus family and is one of the ocean’s rarest pelagic cephalopods

What is a paper Nautilus?

The Paper Nautilus (Argonauta argo) is a species of open-ocean octopus found in tropical and subtropical waters around the world, including the Andaman Sea, Thailand, Myanmar, and the Similan Islands.

The delicate white “shell” carried by females is not a true shell like a nautilus shell. Instead, it is a thin egg case secreted by the female using two specially adapted arms.
​
The female uses this paper-thin structure to:
  • Protect her eggs
  • Control buoyancy
  • Shelter herself in open water

Male Argonaut are tiny — often less than 2 cm long — and do not produce a shell at all.

​One of the Weirdest Mating Systems in the Ocean

Argonaut octopus carrying egg case in the Andaman Sea
Female Paper Nautilus riding a Jellyfish
Argonaut reproduction is famously bizarre.
One of the male’s specialized arms acts as a reproductive organ called a hectocotylus. During mating, this arm detaches from the male’s body and remains inside the female to fertilize her eggs. The female then secretes the papery shell with the tips of two tentacles. She lays her eggs inside the paper shell and watch them until they are ready to hatch and her job is done.
For many years, scientists thought these detached arms were actually parasitic worms because nobody had ever seen a complete male Argonaut.

Nature is weird sometimes.

​The Paper Nautilus and Its Incredible “BCD”

One of the most fascinating things about the female Paper Nautilus is its ability to control buoyancy.
Argonauts are the only known octopuses capable of trapping air from the ocean surface inside their shell-like egg case.
The female swims to the surface, captures a small air bubble, seals the opening using her arms, then descends back into deeper water.
This trapped air acts almost like a diver’s BCD (buoyancy control device), helping the Argonaut achieve neutral buoyancy and drift effortlessly through the open ocean.
​It’s one of the most unique buoyancy adaptations in the marine world.
Paper Nautilus strange buoyancy technics
Paper Nautilus Swimming

5 Amazing Facts About the Paper Nautilus​

Picture
This pelagic octopus uses jet propulsion to escape faster
🐙 1. The “shell” isn’t a shell at all!
Female paper nautiluses don’t actually have shells; they build a delicate paper-thin case just to store their eggs. It’s basically the ocean’s most elegant Tupperware.

🐙 2. The male is so tiny he looks like he forgot to evolve.
Females can grow up to 20 times larger than males. A male paper nautilus is hard to tell from other octopus you see on blackwater dives.

🐙3. They can “glide” underwater using jet propulsion .Like other octopuses, Paper Nautiluses swim using jet propulsion, expelling water through a siphon to move surprisingly fast through open water. Females may also use their delicate egg case to stabilize themselves while drifting in ocean currents.
🐙 4. Paper nautiluses ae true pelagic hitchiners
They grab floating objects—seaweed, jellyfish, even trash—to ride ocean currents and save energy. They’re the backpackers of the sea, but with much better fashion sense.

🐙 5. They can transform into tiny air-sailors.
​
By trapping air inside their paper-thin case, females can float at the surface like miniature balloons, rising and falling like they’re on a tiny ocean elevator.
black water diving with a male paper nautilus
Male argonauts can be hard to differentiate from other octopus
Paper Nautilus Argonaut andaman sea Thailand
Male Paper Nautilus are much smaller and do not carry a shell

Where Can You See a Paper Nautilus?

Paper Nautiluses are rarely seen during normal scuba dives because they live in the open ocean.

The best chance of encountering one is during:
  • Blackwater diving (Pelagic night dives)
  • Night dives on remote offshore locations close to deep waters
  • in tropical waters
Rare cephalopods on blackwater dive hiding in salp
They are pelagic hitchhikers, often found riding on salp chains like in this photo

​Why Divers Love the Paper Nautilus

For underwater photographers and blackwater divers, finding an Argonaut is a bucket list encounter.
They are incredibly delicate, rarely seen, and completely alien-looking.
Watching one drift through the water while carrying its paper-thin egg case feels more like encountering a creature from another planet than a marine animal.
pretty portrait of a pelagic octopus in Myanmar waters
Argonautidae photographed in the andaman sea
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Trip report | 10th - 18th March 2026 | Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks

20/3/2026

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A silhouetted rocky island topped with a single tree stands in the ocean against a pale sunset sky. A banner at the bottom reads
This expedition brought together a wonderfully international group of divers from France, Switzerland, Germany, Romania, the USA, Singapore and Burma, including a very special guest, Thanda Ko Gyi, founder of the Myanmar Ocean Project and the database guru in Myanmar for Mantas both for Manta Trust and Marine Megfauna fondations. Beside education and ghost net removal, her work focuses on manta ray research, identification and conservation in Myanmar waters, adding a meaningful scientific dimension to our journey through one of Southeast Asia’s last true diving frontiers.
From the remote islands of the Mergui Archipelago to the vast offshore plateaus of the Burma Banks, the week unfolded as a perfect balance between encounters with large pelagics and an almost overwhelming richness of macro life.
Scenic aerial view of a turquoise bay and white sand beach in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar, surrounded by lush tropical rainforest.
Tropical island scenery in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago
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After clearing Thai immigration at Badin Pier in Ranong, we welcomed our guests on board before making a smooth crossing to Kawthung for Burmese formalities. Soon after, the Smiling Seahorse headed north into the Mergui Archipelago, where dense jungle-covered islands, quiet anchorages and untouched reefs set the tone for the days ahead.
The MV Smiling Seahorse liveaboard boat cruising on calm blue waters under a bright sky, offering scuba diving trips in Thailand and Myanmar.
The luxurious dive liveaboard MV Smiling Seahorse in the Andaman Sea
A vibrant orange and pink sunset over the horizon of the Andaman Sea during a Myanmar liveaboard diving cruise.
Stunning Andaman Sea sunset during a Myanmar dive safari

Day 2 – High Rock
​

Our first immersion at High Rock served as a gentle and colourful introduction to the trip, allowing everyone to settle into the rhythm of diving in Burma.
The reef immediately revealed its macro treasures: long-tail sea hare slugs grazing on the rock, dark margin glossodoris, orange-spotted pipefish weaving through the reef and delicate yellow wentletrap snails (Epitonium billeanum). Flounders rested motionless on sandy patches while cowfish drifted slowly in the current.
​

Moray eels were already part of the scenery, with white-eye moray eels and giant moray eels peering from crevices, while schools of juvenile yellowback fusiliers flickered above the reef. In the blue, chevron barracudas held their formation, hinting at the bigger action to come.
The rest of the day unfolded on board with an inspiring presentation by Thanda, sharing insights into manta identification and behaviour, setting the stage for what would become one of the trip’s defining themes.
A close-up of a White Eye Moray Eel peeking out from a hard coral reef in the Mergui Archipelago.
Macro photography of a White Eye Moray Eel in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave
Macro photography of a White Eye Moray Eel in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave
Rare Geographic Sea Hare found while scuba diving Black Rock | Thierry Lagrave

Day 3 & 4 – Black Rock

Black Rock delivered its usual blend of raw energy and intricate detail, a place where the blue and the reef constantly compete for attention.
In the open water, oceanic manta rays appeared gracefully, circling above the pinnacle as if inspecting each diver. Thanks to Thanda’s expertise, we were able to identify six different individual manta rays over the course of our dives — a truly special highlight that added a scientific dimension to these encounters.

​Around them, dense formations of chevron and pickhandle barracuda stretched into the distance, while blacktip trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies and bigeye trevallies surged through schools of fish in coordinated bursts. Dogtooth tuna and longnose emperors cut through the water column, while massive schools of rabbitfish hovered over the reef.

A giant Oceanic Manta Ray gliding over a colorful soft coral reef at Black Rock in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.
Majestic Manta Ray encounter while diving in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave
An Oceanic Manta Ray swimming near the surface with several remoras attached, captured during a Smiling Seahorse liveaboard trip.
Oceanic Manta Ray with remoras at a cleaning station | Thierry Lagrave
giant Oceanic Manta Ray swimming past vibrant purple and pink soft corals at Black Rock dive site in the Mergui Archipelago.
Incredible visibility for Manta Ray diving at Black Rock | Thierry Lagrave
Below the action, the reef itself was just as alive. Powder-blue surgeonfish and velvet surgeonfish grazed continuously, while giant moray eels, fimbriated morays, leopard morays and yellow-edged moray eels filled every crack and overhang. Batfish lingered calmly in sheltered zones, seemingly unfazed by the surrounding chaos. Schools of neon fusiliers, scissortail fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers formed thick, shifting clouds wrapping around the rock.
A Goniobranchus geminus nudibranch (twin sea slug) on a vibrant coral reef surrounded by anemones in the Mergui Archipelago.
Vibrant reef biodiversity and nudibranchs in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave
And then there was the macro.
Black Rock revealed an almost overwhelming diversity: Bornella anguilla, Goniobranchus geometrica, Goniobranchus geminus, Goniobranchus leopardus, Goniobranchus annulata, Risbecia pulchella, gloomy Tamja, white-bump sapsucking slugs, golden wentletrap snails and tiger cowries.
A macro photography shot of a purple and white Goniobranchus geometricus nudibranch on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago.
Discover nudibranches like Gonionbranchus Geometrius on a macro diving safari | Thierry Lagrave
Close-up of a white and yellow spotted Goniobranchus annulatus nudibranch, a highlight for underwater photographers in Myanmar.
Exceptional macro photography opportunities in Myanmar's Mergui Archipelago | Thierry Lagrave
Peacock-tail anemone shrimps, squat shrimps, anemone crabs and peacock mantis shrimps animated the reef, while pharaoh cuttlefish hovered just above the substrate. Stonefish blended perfectly into the rocks and rare sightings of yellow and red clown frogfish added excitement.

​
We also encountered Dendrodoris denisoni, orangutan crabs, reef crabs, honeycomb moray eels and Doriprismatica atromarginata. The tiny yet fascinating Trinchesia sibogae showcased its cerata, reminding us of the incredible defensive adaptations of nudibranchs, storing stinging cells from their prey.
A vibrant Trinchesia sibogae nudibranch with bright purple and orange cerata on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago.
Colorful sea slugs of the Andaman Sea | Thierry Lagrave
A high-detail macro shot of a Dendrodoris denisoni nudibranch, showing its unique blue spots and textured body.
Searching for rare macro critters in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave
Sunset  brought a different atmosphere. Under torchlight, anemone fish hermit crabs, sea urchin crabs, broadclub cuttlefish and pygmy squids emerged, transforming Black Rock into a different world.
A camouflaged Scorpionfish resting among vibrant yellow cup corals on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago.
Master of camouflage: Scorpionfish on a Myanmar reef | Thierry Lagrave
wo bright orange Ocellaris clownfish (Anemonefish) nestled in a purple sea anemone during a dive in the Andaman Sea.
Iconic Anemonefish in the pristine Mergui Archipelago | Thierry Lagrave
A tiny, translucent Pygmy Squid hovering near a red gorgonian sea fan, showcasing the incredible macro life found on a Smiling Seahorse cruise.
Tiny Pygmy Squid: a macro photography highlight

Day 5 – Three Islets & Crossing to the Burma Banks

At Square rock, tigertail seahorses including juveniles clung delicately to the whip coral, while tiger cowries and their eggs decorated the substrate. Schools of yellowtail barracuda passed by as Cuthona sibogae, Hypselodoris decorata and blue dragons brought colour to the reef. Orange-spotted pipefish and cleaner pipefish hovered above the sand while scorpionfish and moray eels remained perfectly camouflaged.
A dark-phase Tiger Tail Seahorse (Hippocampus comes) clinging to an orange sea fan during a dive in the Mergui Archipelago.
Rare Tiger Tail Seahorse sightings in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave
A bright yellow Tiger Tail Seahorse camouflaged against a rocky reef background in the Andaman Sea.
The signature Tiger Tail Seahorse of the Andaman Sea | Thierry Lagrave
Submarine combined action and detail, with spotted hypselodoris, anemone crabs, stonefish and devil scorpionfish sharing space with bamboo sharks resting under ledges. Schools of juvenile yellowback and scissortail fusiliers mixed with snappers and rainbow runners, while juvenile Koran angelfish and oriental sweetlips added flashes of colour.
A Porcelain Anemone Crab filter-feeding on a hard coral head in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.
Intricate macro life: Anemone Crab on a Myanmar reef | Thierry Lagrave
An Oriental Sweetlips and Copperband Butterflyfish swimming past a massive orange sea fan in the Andaman Sea.
Vibrant coral gardens and reef fish biodiversity
Extreme close-up of a Devil Scorpionfish camouflaged against the reef, showing its textured skin and eye detail.
Incredible reef camouflage: the Devil Scorpionfish | Thierry Lagrave
At Shark Cave, tomato anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish guarded their homes alongside anemone crabs. White-eye and honeycomb moray eels hid within the reef while macro highlights included Nembrotha lineolata, Cuthona sibogae, mouthbrooding cardinalfish, Chromodoris annulata, skeleton shrimp and camouflaged snapping shrimps.
Macro photography of a tiny, translucent Skeleton Shrimp on a hydroid, captured during a Smiling Seahorse dive trip.
Bizarre macro life: Skeleton Shrimp found in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave
Two vibrant orange Tomato Anemonefish (Amphiprion frenatus) swimming above their host sea anemone during a dive in Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago with The Smiling Seahorse.
Vibrant Tomato Anemonefish found on remote Myanmar reefs | Tomato Anemonefish
Our visit to Khyun Pillar Island offered a quiet pause away from the Dive-Eat-Sleep rhythm. Walking through the small Moken village, we experienced a glimpse of a way of life deeply connected to the sea, where tides and seasons shape daily routines. Children played along the beach, longtail boats rested in the shallows, and the surrounding jungle framed the scene with a sense of timelessness. A simple yet meaningful moment that added a human dimension to our journey through this remote Archipelago.
Scenic overlook of Khyun Pillar Island in the Mergui Archipelago, showing a tropical bay with turquoise water and white jasmine flowers in the foreground.
Panoramic view of the remote Khyun Pillar Island in Myanmar
A traditional golden Burmese pagoda (temple) at Khyun Pillar Island against a clear blue sky, a cultural stop on a Myanmar dive liveaboard.
Cultural island excursions during a Myanmar dive cruise
As the sun began to dip, we returned to the water for a night dive rich with life. Blunt decorated crabs, blue eyed rock crabs, cone snails and tiger cowries emerged from hiding, while gorgonian crabs, basket stars and emperor shrimps occupied every corner of the reef. Anemone hermit crabs and squat lobsters moved cautiously between rocks, alongside saw-edged spooner crabs. Sea cucumbers, pencil urchins and sleeping rabbitfish completed the scene, wrapping up the day in a completely different, nocturnal atmosphere.
​
That evening, we set course toward the remote Burma Banks...
wo Squat Lobsters (Crab Buddies) hiding in a reef crevice in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.
Commensal crustaceans and reef life in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave
A detailed macro shot of a sea snail cowrie displaying its mantle over its shell on a colorful reef during a Smiling Seahorse liveaboard trip.
ascinating macro behavior: Cowrie with mantle extended
Extreme close-up of a Giant Moray Eel with its mouth open, showing sharp teeth and textured skin, a common sight at dive sites in Myanmar.
p close with a Giant Moray Eel at Black Rock | Thierry Lagrave

Day 6 – Burma Banks

Row Bank introduced us immediately to the signature atmosphere of the Banks. Nurse sharks dominated the dives, resting on sandy ledges or gliding slowly past divers. Around them, powder-blue surgeonfish, lined surgeonfish, oriental sweetlips and two-spot butterflyfish filled the reef. Coral groupers and peacock groupers held their territories while cleaner wrasse and sixline wrasse worked tirelessly. Basslets hovered close to the reef face and yellow saddle goatfish sifted through the sand.
A large Nurse Shark swimming low over a rocky reef during a dive in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.
Exciting shark encounters in the Mergui Archipelago | Thierry Lagrave
At Rainbow Bank, the pelagic energy increased. More nurse sharks rested across the plateau while schools of humpback unicornfish and sleek unicornfish moved in formation. Batfish, longnose emperors and large schools of black-and-white snappers mixed with giant one-spot and five-lined snappers. Great barracuda patrolled the edges while honeycomb moray eels filled the reef.
A large school of sleek Unicornfish swimming past a dramatic rock pinnacle in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.
Explore the rich marine biodiversity of the Mergui Archipelago on a dive cruise.
A solitary Great Barracuda patrolling over a healthy soft coral reef in the Andaman Sea.
Encounter apex predators while diving the pristine reefs of the Burma Banks.
 Blackwater  dives added a completely different dimension: sea angels mating, crab zoea larvae drifting, larval sleeper lobsters, flying fish larvae, eel larvae, salps, eternal jellyfish and juvenile  female paper nautilus drifting like tiny living sculptures.
A transparent larval eel drifting in the open ocean at night, captured during a specialized blackwater dive in Myanmar.
Discover alien-like creatures with our signature Myanmar blackwater diving expeditions. | Thierry Lagrave
A stunning macro photo of a juvenile Flying Fish with expanded fins against a pitch-black background during a blackwater drift.
Award-winning macro photography opportunities on a blackwater dive in Myanmar. | Thierry Lagrave
Rare macro photography of two translucent Sea Angels mating during a blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.
Rare marine life behavior: Mating Sea Angels on a Myanmar blackwater drift. | Thierry Lagrave
A tiny Eternal Jellyfish (Turritopsis dohrnii) with long stinging tentacles glowing against a black background during a blackwater dive in Myanmar.
Witness the immortal Eternal Jellyfish on a Myanmar blackwater dive | Thierry Lagrave
A rare Female Paper Nautilus (Argonaut) drifting in the open ocean during a blackwater diving expedition in the Andaman Sea.
Rare Paper Nautilus encounter during a blackwater dive | Thierry Lagrave

Day 7 – Burma Banks
​

Coral Bank delivered one of the most intense sequences of the banks for most of our divers. Nurse sharks swam directly through the group, while a massive mangrove whip ray lifted off from the reef and glided effortlessly past divers. Grey reef sharks appeared in the blue, replacing the nurse sharks as the dominant presence. Giant barracuda, large tuna, a hawksbill turtle, and huge schools of trevallies, snappers, fusiliers, parrotfish and surgeonfish surrounded us in every direction.
A Hawksbill sea turtle feeding on a rocky reef with scuba divers in the background during a Smiling Seahorse liveaboard trip in Myanmar.
Sustainable dive tourism: Passive Hawksbill Turtle encounter in Myanmar
A massive school of Big Eye Trevally (jacks) swimming in clear blue water with sunbeams piercing the surface in the Mergui Archipelago.
Incredible fish biomass and schooling Trevally in the Andaman Sea | School of Big Eye Trevally
At Silvertip Bank, the action continued with nurse sharks and an abundance of reef life: scalefin anthias, redbar anthias, coral groupers, titan triggerfish, bird wrasse, raccoon butterflyfish, regal angelfish and blue-spined unicornfish moving across the reef.

During our navigation between dive sites, we were joined by a playful pod of dolphins riding the bow wave, effortlessly gliding alongside the boat and occasionally darting ahead before looping back again. One of those simple yet unforgettable moments that perfectly captures life at sea.
Three wild dolphins swimming in the bow wake of The Smiling Seahorse liveaboard in the deep blue waters of the Andaman Sea.
Magical wildlife encounters: Dolphins bow-riding during a Myanmar dive safari.
Blackwater dives revealed yet more pelagic wonders: barracuda larvae, flying fish, mantis shrimp larvae, shrimp larvae, dragonfish, glowing pyrosomes and drifting pencil squid completing the surreal night scene.
A tiny, translucent juvenile Great Barracuda drifting in the open ocean during a blackwater diving trip in Myanmar with The Smiling Seahorse.
High-detail macro photography of a juvenile Barracuda in blackwater | Thierry Lagrave
A glowing bioluminescent Pyrosome colonial tunicate with small juvenile fish hitching a ride, captured during a blackwater drift in the Andaman Sea.
Rare bioluminescent Pyrosome encounters in the Andaman Sea | Thierry Lagrave
A small juvenile fish seeking protection inside the transparent body of a Comb Jelly (Ctenophore) during a blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago.
Unique marine life symbiosis: Juvenile fish sheltered in a Comb Jelly | Thierry Lagrave
A small Pencil Squid with shimmering skin captured during a night blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.
Incredible cephalopod encounters: Pencil Squid in blackwater | Thierry Lagrave
A transparent larval Dragon Fish with unique elongated features drifting in the open ocean during a blackwater safari.
Rare deep-sea larval Dragon Fish found in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave

Day 8 – Seafan Forest & Western Rocky

Seafan Forest offered a calmer but still beautiful dive, where large purple sea fans and soft coral trees swayed gently in the current. Stonefish rested perfectly camouflaged among the reef, while schools of yellowback fusiliers and neon fusiliers drifted past. Coral groupers and peacock groupers hovered near the reef, joined by powder-blue surgeonfish, Indian sailfin tang and clouds of anthias adding colour to the scene.
A perfectly camouflaged Reef Stonefish hiding among pink soft corals and orange cup corals on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago.
Expertly camouflaged Stonefish on a healthy Myanmar reef
A giant orange gorgonian sea fan surrounded by pink soft corals and a school of small reef fish in the Andaman Sea.
Discover the stunning seafan forests of Western Rocky
A vibrant school of blue and yellow Neon Fusiliers swimming over a hard coral reef in the crystal clear waters of Myanmar.
Experience incredible fish action and vibrant coral reefs in the Mergui Archipelago.
At Western Rocky, the dives brought back a mix of macro and schooling fish, creating a perfect balance to end the trip. Inside the cave, a stonefish guarded the exit while giant moray eels watched from the shadows. Outside, ghostpipefish hovered near the islets and blue dragons and Chromodoris annulata added delicate splashes of colour to the reef.

​
Schools of fusiliers — including yellowback, twin stripe and neon fusiliers — mixed with giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies and passing barracuda circling the formations. Lionfish, scorpionfish and titan triggerfish filled the reef, while cleaner shrimps and squat shrimps animated the cracks, bringing the macro world back into focus.
A white Doriprismatica atromarginata nudibranch with a distinct black border crawling on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago.
Macro critter hunting: the elegant Black-Margined Nudibranch | Thierry Lagrave
A macro photography shot of a tiny Porcelain Crab hiding under a rocky ledge on a vibrant Myanmar dive site.
Exceptional macro photography details on a Myanmar dive safari | Thierry Lagrave
A large Titan Triggerfish swimming through a massive school of glassfish in the deep blue waters of the Andaman Sea.
Witness the incredible marine biomass of the Mergui Archipelago on a luxury liveaboard cruise.
As the evening started, under a calm, star-filled sky, we gathered on the upper deck for our traditional BBQ.
​

Stories from the trip flowed naturally between us — manta encounters at Black Rock, close passes with sharks on the Banks, and the countless macro discoveries that had kept everyone’s eyes glued to the reef. Laughter, shared moments and quiet reflections blended together, as plates filled and emptied and glasses were raised one last time.

Manta Ray at Black Rock | Camille Rovillain 

As the evening unfolded, the mood shifted from relaxed to celebratory. Music floated through the air and before long, the upper deck turned into an open-air dance floor. Barefoot under the stars, surrounded by the ocean, the night carried on with energy, laughter and dancing — the perfect way to celebrate a week that had delivered both unforgettable big encounters and the smallest hidden wonders.
​

It was more than just a dinner; it became a true celebration of the journey we had shared — from the vast blue of the Burma Banks to the intricate beauty of the reefs — a perfect closing chapter before returning to shore.
​
Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar​
A golden tropical sunset over a silhouetted island limestone karst in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar, during a dive cruise.
Unforgettable tropical sunsets over the Mergui Archipelago
A delicious gourmet BBQ dinner spread featuring grilled meats and corn on the cob served aboard The Smiling Seahorse liveaboard.
Fresh gourmet dining and BBQ nights on a Myanmar liveaboard cruise

Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell
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The final dive at Dendro’s Peak wrapped up the trip with a blend of everything we had experienced. Nudibranchs decorated the reef while fimbriated moray eels peered from crevices. Batfish hovered in the current and trevallies passed through the blue.
A bright yellow Giant Frogfish camouflaged on a rocky reef in the Mergui Archipelago, a prize find for underwater photographers in Myanmar.
Rare macro sightings: A Giant Frogfish in the Mergui Archipelago | Thanda Ko Gyi
Close-up of a small Blenny peering out from its burrow in a coral reef during a dive trip with The Smiling Seahorse.
Discover the charming macro life of the Andaman Sea | Thierry Lagrave
Two tiny spider crabs camouflaged on a red sea fan, illustrating the incredible biodiversity found on Myanmar’s remote reefs.
Hidden treasures: Camouflaged Crabs on a sea fan | Thierry Lagrave
After surfacing, we made our way back to Kawthoung for Burmese immigration, shared a final drink at the Smile Bar and returned to Ranong, closing another unforgettable journey through the Mergui Archipelago and the Burma Banks aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse.
​

​Beyond the incredible encounters — from six individually identified manta rays at Black Rock to the endless diversity of nudibranchs and reef life — this trip also carried a deeper meaning. With Thanda on board, every sighting became part of a bigger picture, contributing to the understanding and protection of marine life in Myanmar waters.
​

It was a reminder that these remote ecosystems are not only places of beauty and adventure, but also fragile environments that depend on awareness, research and responsible diving. Exploring them is a privilege — helping to protect them is part of the journey.

Until the next tide brings us together again — dive well, dive aware, and see you soon, fellow divers.
A group of four scuba divers posing together in mid-water during a liveaboard trip in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.
Making memories with new dive buddies in the Andaman Sea
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Trip report from the 10th to 17th November 2025, across Myanmar and Thailand

19/11/2025

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November 10th 2025 thailand and myanmar diving trip report
​The MV Smiling Seahorse set off once again for an exceptional cross-border adventure — a journey from Thailand’s Surin & Similan National Parks to Myanmar’s wild Mergui Archipelago. This week we welcomed our wonderful guests from Israel, excited to explore two countries, two ecosystems, and a whole spectrum of marine life.
After check-in and Thai immigration formalities, we boarded the boat and headed across the Pakchan River to Kawthung for Burmese immigration. Passports stamped, gear prepped, smiles wide — our expedition began.
Andaman Sea Sunsets
Sunset on the Myanmar and Thailand Andaman seas...

Day 2 — Mergui’s First Wonders

​Our first dive at High Rock was the perfect warm-up. We drifted along the rocky outcrops and immediately met two tigertail seahorses hiding among the hard corals. Thornback boxfish hovered curiously near the walls while crocodile needlefish glided just under the surface. A busy peacock mantis shrimp scuttled across the sand, and Durban dancing shrimps flashed their white antennae from inside tiny crevices. Moray eels peeked out from the reef — fimbriated and white-eye morays sharing the same neighbourhood — and a cooperative group of four scribbled filefish swam past, changing colour as they fed. Schools of trumpetfish, lionfish, bearded scorpionfish, coral and peacock groupers, snappers, fusiliers, and a handful of blackfin barracudas filled the water column, with a white-tongue trevally circling us during the safety stop.

At Three Islets, the Submarine site gave us a lovely first encounter with a bamboo shark tucked into a rocky crack, and a turtle drifting lazily overhead. We found orange-spotted pipefish and the elegant nudibranch Chromodoris rufomarginata on the sandy slope. Shark Cave was buzzing with life; the entire cave shimmered with sweepers, and outside the entrance clouds of fusiliers pulsed in the current. Sergeant majors were fiercely defending their eggs while wrasses, angelfish, butterflyfish, and triggerfish opportunistically picked at any moment of distraction. Wahoos streaked through the blue, accompanied by a great barracuda, golden trevallies, and even a giant bicolour parrotfish. Square continued the spectacle with more tigertail seahorses, a giant moray, and well-hidden bearded scorpionfish.
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Our night dive around Square and Shark Cave was a treasure hunt of nocturnal critters. Five tigertail seahorses showed up, along with sponge spider crabs, decorated crabs, Godiva quadricolor nudibranchs, and sleepy pufferfish wedged among the corals. Soldierfish and cardinalfish hovered in the glow of our torches while hinge-beak shrimp and banded cleaner shrimp darted from rock to rock.
snake eel andaman sea
Snake eel out and about!
High Rock, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
High Rock, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
fimbriated moray eel
fimbriated moray eel
White eyes moray eels, Mergui Archipelago
White eyes moray eels, Mergui Archipelago
Feet of a crown of thorn seastar, Amdaman Sea, Myanmar
Feet of a crown of thorn seastar

Day 3 — Twin Islands & Blackwater Magic

At North Twin Reef, we descended into crystal-clear blue water where sea snakes wove gracefully across the reef. Oriental sweetlips gathered in loose schools, and anemonefish bobbed in their host anemones. Giant morays, surgeonfish, and redtooth triggerfish patrolled the boulder fields. Seal-face pufferfish, boxfish, and a forest of staghorn, lettuce, and foliose corals created a vibrant underwater landscape.
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South Twin Reef delivered even more action with partner shrimps and peacock mantis shrimps scurrying along the sandy patches. Juvenile triggerfish flicked between coral heads while gold-saddle rabbitfish fed in tight groups. Four dogtooth tunas shot past in formation. Blue dragon nudibranchs were scattered everywhere, and the reef was alive with lined and stripe-bristletooth surgeonfish. A Jenkins ray rested on the sand beside a blue-spotted stingray, while yellow-edge and giant morays watched from shaded holes. An octopus shifted colours as we approached, and juvenile oriental sweetlips wiggled in their rhythmic dance. We ended the dive drifting over beautiful table corals and elegant funnel corals.
myanmar seahorse
Day octopus, Mergui Archipelage
Day octopus
peacock mantis shrimps, South Twin Reef
Peacock mantis shrimps
colorful nudibranch of Mergui Archipelago
That evening’s blackwater dive was a mesmerising drift over the deep. Squid zipped through our lights while baby scribbled filefish floated in their larval form. A banded sea snake surprised us with a rare mid-water visit. Transparent larval shrimps, lobsters, crabs, and mantis shrimps hovered like tiny spacecraft, and pteropods and flying-gurnard larvae pulsed through the darkness.
flying-gurnard larvae pulsed through the darkness
flying-gurnard on a Blackwater
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Comb jelly on a blackwater dive

Day 4 — Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Our two dives at Sea Fan Forest were spectacular. We explored towering forests of gorgonians where another tigertail seahorse clung to the branches. Yellow-lined and neon fusiliers filled the water column, pursued by rainbow runners weaving through the openings. We found several octopus, stonefish, and devil scorpionfish, along with nudibranchs such as Chromodoris, Risbecia annulata, and Geometrica. Zebra morays slithered over the rocks, yellow trumpetfish hovered motionlessly beside sea fans, and peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows. Juvenile boxfish, needlefish, and a perfectly-patterned young emperor angelfish added splashes of colour. A curious cuttlefish rounded off the dive with a gentle display of shifting patterns.

At Western Rocky, we entered the famous cave with octopus and cuttlefish patrolling the entrance. Coral-banded shrimp and red reef crabs clung to the walls, and we spotted a delicate wentletrap snail and a striking Maldivian sponge snail on the sandy floor. Blue dragon nudibranchs added flashes of purple and white as we continued along the reef, passing bannerfish, goatfish, snappers, and butterflyfish enjoying the current.
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Our sunset dive around the Western Rocky islets unfolded beautifully as clouds of fusiliers, sergeant majors, and damsels swirled around us. Harlequin shrimps crept delicately over the rocks, and more Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef. White-tongue trevallies chased schools of baitfish, accompanied by scribbled filefish, pyjama surgeonfish, rainbow runners, golden trevallies, and a pack of blacktail barracudas. At one point, two giant morays squeezed together inside the same hole, seemingly unbothered by each other's presence.
Golden strip fusilier
Golden strip fusilier
Tiger tail seahorse, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
Tiger tail seahorse
Harlequin shrimps crept delicately over the rocks, Western Rocky dive site
Harlequin shrimps hiding well
Cuttlefish, always curious and beautiful
Cuttlefish, always curious and beautiful
Nudibranch Phyllidia varicosa
Nudibranch Phyllidia varicosa
Red reef crab
Red reef crab

Day 5 — Mantas, Currents & Forest Walls

Back at Dendro’s Peak, we descended along a slope draped in purple soft corals. Yellow-lined, neon, and yellowback fusiliers streamed past in glittering clouds while rainbow runners and mackerel darted along the edges. Bannerfish hovered near coral heads, trevallies patrolled the shallows, and a banded sea snake explored the cracks. Zebra morays peeked out from the reef, and coral groupers hunted through the bommies. A large turtle drifted peacefully overhead — and then the highlight of the day arrived as two magnificent manta rays swept gracefully above us, circling repeatedly.

The afternoon dives at Sea Fan Forest were equally memorable. Fusiliers filled every corner of the reef, and another tigertail seahorse clung to a sea fan. A pharaoh cuttlefish hovered confidently before drifting away into the blue. Pickhandle barracudas and golden trevallies patrolled the sandy patches while batfish, moorish idols, and titan triggerfish appeared throughout the site. A large tiger cowrie, several anthias, wrasses, butterflyfish, and damsels added detail to the coral scene. More octopus and a well-camouflaged stonefish ended the day.
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That night’s blackwater dive was exceptionally special, featuring a female paper nautilus drifting like a delicate origami shell. Larval wrasses and tiny fish sheltering inside jellyfish floated through the dark, and we found many larval triggerfish and fish living inside salps — a perfect finale to the drifting night.
Paper nautilus, Blackwater diving, Mergui Archipelago
Paper nautilus, Blackwater
female paper nautilus drifting like a delicate origami shell
female paper nautilus drifting like a delicate origami shell

Day 6 — Into Thailand: Surin & Richelieu Rock

We re-entered Thailand in the early hours and cruised south toward Richelieu Rock, where perfect conditions awaited us.
What Makes Richelieu Rock Famous?
  • A horseshoe-shaped pinnacle covered in purple and pink soft corals
  • Massive schools of trevallies, barracudas, and snappers
  • Incredible macro life: ghost pipefish, harlequin shrimps, tiger eggs cowries
  • Historically known for whale shark sightings
  • Named after Admiral Andreas du Plessis de Richelieu, a Danish officer who served as Commander-in-Chief of the Royal Siamese Navy — not the French cardinal, despite the popular legend

Our first dive at Richelieu Rock was enchanting. Dense schools of glassfish wrapped the entire reef in a shimmering veil. Longnose emperors worked in tight groups, flashing brilliant colours as they hunted, while giant trevallies, bluefins, white-tongue trevallies, and bigeyes patrolled the edges. Batfish hovered calmly around the cleaning stations, and titan triggerfish bulldozed their way along the bottom. Octopus displayed quick colour changes, and huge potato groupers watched us from between the cracks. White-eye, zebra, and yellow-edge moray eels peeked from the crevices, and tiny tiger-egg cowries clung to sea fans. Nudibranchs including chromodoris and flabellina added delicate splashes of colour while bannerfish, wrasses, dartfish, anthias, and butterflyfish decorated every corner of the reef.
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Our night dive at Surin South (Ao Pakkard) offered a different perspective. Giant red crabs prowled the sandy areas, Durban dancing shrimps and marble shrimps flickered under our torches, and boxer-banded shrimps waved their oversized claws. Parrotfish, surgeonfish, and pufferfish were already tucked into their nighttime hideouts, while barracudas sliced through the dark hunting yellowback fusiliers.
Durban dancing shrimps
Durban dancing shrimps
Great dives = happy divers! Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
Great dives = happy divers!
A barracuda gleam in the dark
A barracuda gleam in the dark
Marine flatworm, Pseudobiceros
Marine flatworm, Pseudobiceros

Day 7 — Richelieu, Similans & Koh Tachai

We returned to Richelieu Rock for two more morning dives filled with action. Longnose emperors swam in the shallows where cleaners worked tirelessly around their open mouths. Giant trevallies and chevron barracudas surged through the schools of glassfish. We found beautiful harlequin shrimps, cleaner and orange-spotted pipefish, and several potato groupers cruising the bommies. Boxfish, angelfish, needlefish, cobia, black snapper, and African pompano all made appearances. A large marble ray glided past us to complete the scene.
Similan National Park Highlights
  • Famous for giant granite boulders and white-sand beaches
  • Excellent visibility and vivid blue water
  • Frequent encounters with manta rays, whale sharks, and giant trevallies
  • Beautiful coral gardens with sea fans, hard corals, and soft coral patches

Our third dive at Koh Tachai brought us into the energetic mix this site is known for. Bluefin trevallies and chevron barracudas hunted in packs while giant trevallies and dogtooth tunas patrolled the deeper zones. Marble groupers rested on the bommies while longfin bannerfish, unicorn surgeonfish, angelfish, and massive swarms of fusiliers filled the reef. Lobsters and snappers hid among the corals, and batfish drifted by in lazy groups.
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At Koh Bon, we explored the ridge and bay where hard corals glowed beautifully in the afternoon light. A baby blacktip shark cruised the shallows while an octopus hid in a coral crack. Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef. The dive ended with colourful scenes full of wrasses, goatfish, butterflyfish, damsels, and scorpionfish, with the occasional wahoo and giant moray cruising through the dusk.
Banded coral shrimp, Myanmar diving
Banded coral shrimp
Nudibranche Bornella anguilla
Nudibranche Bornella anguilla
Sexy shrimp and anemones, Mergui Archipelago, Burma
Sexy shrimp and anemones
	Glossodoris cincta
Glossodoris cincta

Day 8 — Racha Noi to Finish

​Our last day took us south to Racha Noi, where Banana Bay offered a relaxed sandy slope with scattered bommies teeming with damsels, redtooth triggerfish, Meyer’s butterflyfish, fiveline and checkered snappers, longbarbel goatfish, squirrelfish, and gold-saddle rabbitfish. A banded sea snake glided along the reef, and a mantis shrimp, guarded closely by its pair of squat shrimps, kept watch from its burrow.
At Manta Reef, we found Glossodoris cincta​, a snowflake moray, and several seal-face pufferfish drifting over the sandy bottom. Garden eels swayed in the light current as blue-spotted rays glided past. Butterflyfish, damsels, and a bearded scorpionfish rounded out the dive while yellowback fusiliers danced above in glittering swirls.
Porcelain anemone crab, Andaman Sea
Porcelain anemone crab
Beautiful soft coral in Mergui Archipelago
Beautiful soft coral
Marine hermit crabs
Marine hermit crabs
Orange sun coral
Orange sun coral

A Perfect Journey Across Two Countries

Impeccable MV Smiling Seahorse diving deck
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​From Myanmar’s caves and giant sea fans to Thailand’s iconic reefs, this trip delivered unforgettable moments: manta rays, seahorses, endless fusiliers, dramatic landscapes, and amazing energy from our guests.
Thank you to our wonderful divers from Israel for sharing this week with us and their wonderful photos to illustrate this blogpost!
See you soon for another adventure with the MV Smiling Seahorse! 🐟💙
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10 Alien Creatures You’ll Only Encounter While Blackwater Diving

20/9/2025

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​After sunset, the Andaman Sea between Thailand and Myanmar transforms into a mysterious, living galaxy. Beneath the surface, beyond coral reefs and moonlit shallows, unfolds the planet’s largest nightly migration — as billions of deep-sea creatures rise from the abyss in search of food.
Blackwater diving offers a front-row seat to this breathtaking phenomenon. Suspended in the inky darkness by a tether line and surrounded by carefully placed lights, divers float above hundreds of meters of open ocean — face-to-face with glowing jellyfish, larval fish, paper-thin cephalopods, and other strange, rarely seen life forms.

What makes Blackwater Diving So Special?

Because it is offshore, ​Blackwater diving isn’t your regular night dive. It’s a window into the mesopelagic zone — the twilight zone of the ocean where light barely penetrates, and bioluminescence reigns supreme. Every night, marine larvae and deep-sea organisms make brief appearances near the water surface. Each dive is unpredictable, filled with fleeting encounters that might never happen again.
Whether you're in the Andaman Sea or Blackwater diving elsewhere, these are the 10 of the most extraordinary pelagic creatures divers may only encounter on blackwater dives.

​1. Blanket Octopus (Tremoctopus spp.)  

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​The Blanket Octopus (Tremoctopus spp.) is a striking deep-sea cephalopod known for the large, web-like membranes that trail from the arms of females, resembling a flowing blanket. This structure is used for defense, making the octopus appear larger to predators. Females can grow over 2 meters long, while males are tiny, rarely exceeding a few centimeters—one of the most extreme examples of sexual size dimorphism in the animal kingdom. Found in warm open oceans worldwide, Blanket Octopuses are solitary and rarely seen. They are capable swimmers and can detach parts of their web to distract threats. Remarkably, some use the stinging tentacles of Portuguese man o’ war as tools for defense and hunting.

2. Ctenophores (Comb Jellies)

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​Comb jellies are among the longest-roaming invertebrate marine creatures on planet Earth. These carnivorous and voracious predators are delicate and gelatinous in structure. They possess eight rows of cilia-bearing plates used for “combing” and propelling themselves through the water. These plates can also produce and refract low levels of light.
Their bodies are composed of more than 95% water and lack respiratory, circulatory, excretory, and skeletal systems. Some species, such as Beroe forskalii, have a mouth used for biting prey — often other ctenophores — and anal pores for excretion.
Other species feature two tentacles covered with sticky cells called colloblasts, which are used to snare prey and draw it toward their mouths. Digestion occurs when enzymes liquefy the captured prey, with the remains expelled either through the mouth or the anal pores.

3. Eel Larvea

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Eel larvae, known as leptocephali, are the transparent, ribbon-like early life stage of many marine eel species. Unlike typical fish larvae, leptocephali are laterally compressed, leaf-shaped, and nearly invisible in the water, offering excellent camouflage in the open ocean. They drift with currents for extended periods—sometimes months or years—feeding on dissolved organic matter and marine snow. During this pelagic phase, they grow before undergoing metamorphosis into the more cylindrical "glass eel" stage. From there, they begin their migration toward coastal habitats. The leptocephalus stage reflects the eel’s complex life cycle and plays a key role in marine ecosystems as both predator and prey.

4. Paper Nautilus (Argonauta argo)

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The Paper Nautilus (Argonauta argo) is a rare pelagic octopus known for the delicate, paper-thin shell produced by females. Unlike true nautiluses, this shell is not for protection but serves as an egg case and buoyancy aid. Females can grow up to 30 cm and are significantly larger than the tiny, shell-less males. A. argo lives near the ocean surface and is found in warm and temperate seas worldwide. It preys on small crustaceans and jellyfish, using its webbed arms to capture food. The species is known for its graceful movement and is often seen floating or drifting with ocean currents. Despite its fragile appearance, the Paper Nautilus is a highly adapted and mysterious cephalopod, captivating scientists and divers alike with its unique reproductive behavior and ephemeral beauty.

5. Tripod Fish Larvae

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Tripod Fish
Youtube

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Tripod fish larvae are the juvenile form of deep-sea tripod fish, typically belonging to the genus Bathypterois. Unlike their adult counterparts, which rest on the seafloor using elongated fin rays like stilts, the larvae are pelagic and drift in the open ocean. They are nearly transparent, with soft, delicate bodies adapted for life in the water column. As they develop, the characteristic elongated pelvic and caudal fin rays begin to form, eventually enabling the unique tripod stance seen in adults. These larvae feed on plankton and rely on ocean currents for transport. Their transition from free-floating juveniles to benthic ambush predators is one of the many fascinating adaptations of deep-sea life, reflecting the complexity of marine developmental stages in extreme environments.


6. Snake Blenny Larvae

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Snake blennies 
Blackwater diving - YouTube
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Snake blenny larvae are the early life stage of elongated, eel-like fish in the family Stichaeidae, found in cold and temperate marine waters. Unlike the benthic adults that dwell near rocky or sandy substrates, the larvae are pelagic, drifting in the upper ocean layers. They are nearly transparent, with slender, ribbon-like bodies that offer camouflage from predators. Their large eyes and minimal pigmentation help them navigate and feed on microscopic plankton. As they grow, they begin to develop the characteristic elongated dorsal and anal fins of adult snake blennies. This transformation from a drifting larva to a bottom-dwelling fish illustrates the complex life cycle of many marine species, adapted for survival in both pelagic and benthic zones.

7. Amphipods

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​Amphipods are small, shrimp-like crustaceans found in marine, freshwater, and even terrestrial environments. With laterally compressed bodies and no carapace, they range in size from a few millimeters to several centimeters. Amphipods are incredibly diverse, with over 10,000 known species, including pelagic, benthic, and parasitic forms. They play vital ecological roles as scavengers, herbivores, and prey for larger animals. Many species live among algae, sediment, or detritus, while others, like deep-sea amphipods, inhabit extreme environments. Their bodies are segmented, with distinct head, thorax, and abdomen regions, and equipped with specialized limbs for swimming, burrowing, or clinging. Amphipods are key contributors to nutrient cycling and food webs across ecosystems.

8. Pelagic Seahorses (Hippocampus spp.)

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Pelagic Seahorse
Blackwater diving - YouTube
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Pelagic seahorses (Hippocampus spp.) are a rare group of seahorses that live in the open ocean, drifting with currents rather than anchoring to reefs or vegetation like most of their relatives. These seahorses are often found clinging to floating debris, seaweed, or Sargassum, using their prehensile tails for stability. Their bodies are upright, armored with bony plates, and capable of subtle color changes for camouflage. Pelagic seahorses feed on tiny planktonic crustaceans, sucking them in through their tubular snouts. Males carry fertilized eggs in a specialized brood pouch until giving birth to fully formed young. Their life in the open sea makes them difficult to study, but they are a vital part of surface marine ecosystems.

9. Larval Flounder

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Flounder
Blackwater diving - YouTube
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The larval stage of flounders marks a dramatic transformation in these flatfish. After hatching, flounder larvae are symmetrical and free-swimming, resembling typical fish with an eye on each side of the head. As they develop, a unique metamorphosis occurs: one eye migrates to the opposite side, and the body flattens to adapt to a benthic lifestyle. During this stage, larvae drift in the plankton-rich upper ocean, feeding on microscopic organisms. Their bodies are mostly transparent, aiding in camouflage from predators. Once metamorphosis is complete, the juvenile flounder settles on the seafloor, lying on its blind side. This complex development allows flounders to exploit both pelagic and benthic environments during their life cycle.

10. Squid Larvea

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Inshore Squid
​Blackwater diving - YouTube
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Squid larvae, also known as paralarvae, are the early life stage of squids, emerging from eggs as miniature, free-swimming versions of adults. They are planktonic, drifting in the upper layers of the ocean where they feed on microscopic organisms. These larvae are transparent or semi-transparent, aiding in camouflage, and possess large eyes and developing tentacles. Unlike true larvae, squid paralarvae do not undergo a complete metamorphosis but gradually grow into their adult form. As they mature, they develop the muscular mantle, chromatophores, and jet propulsion used in adult locomotion. Squid larvae play a vital role in marine food webs, serving as prey for fish and other predators while beginning their own journey as agile hunters.

Blackwater Dive Briefing – Safety, Awareness & Expectations

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​Blackwater diving is a thrilling and unique experience, but it requires preparation, awareness, and respect for others in the water to ensure a smooth and enjoyable dive for everyone.
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What to Expect:
 You’ll be tethered to a central downline, suspended in open water hundreds of meters deep, surrounded by darkness and illuminated only by strobes or torches. The environment can be disorienting at first, but it’s also incredibly exhilarating—offering glimpses of rare pelagic life.

​Safety & Prerequisites:
●  This dive is not for beginners—advanced certification and solid buoyancy control are essential.
●      Prior night diving experience is strongly recommended.
●      Always stay aware of your depth and proximity to the downline.
For underwater photography, use a red focus light to avoid scaring away the animals.

​Diver Etiquette & Spatial Awareness:
●   Be mindful of your light control—waving your torch around can disturb marine life and irritate other divers. Avoid shining it in other people's eyes, especially when pupils are fully dilated in the dark.
●     Always be conscious of your 3D space: move slowly, maintain vertical awareness, and never swim directly under another diver—your bubbles can scare off the subjects they’re observing.
●      It's helpful to coordinate depth zones among divers during the briefing, allowing everyone enough room and reducing overlap. Agreeing on a depth rotation plan can also enhance everyone’s experience.

Personal Tip:

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There’s no perfect depth—what works for one diver may not work for another. I find it useful to explore away from the group and return regularly to the main line. This gives space for quiet observation while maintaining a safe reference point.
Stay calm, be respectful, and enjoy the mysterious magic of the blackwater world.
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When and Where to Dive

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In the Andaman Sea, between Thailand and Myanmar, we’ve been spotting more critters during the full moon — when tidal movement is at its peak.

​While blackwater diving is technically possible year-round, we only offer it during the national park season, which runs from October to May.

​All our cruises include one FREE blackwater dive
when conditions are safe and suitable!

Book Your Blackwater Adventure!

Ready to go beyond the reef and into the unknown? Blackwater diving is an unforgettable highlight of any dive trip — a surreal mix of science, mystery, and raw ocean wonder. Witness alien-like creatures rise from the depths in an experience like no other.
​
Check our cruise schedule and find the perfect departure to experience this one-of-a-kind dive...
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Shoot schools of fish like a pro! UW photography guide

1/9/2025

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How to shoot schools of fish like a pro
Photographing schools of fish is an exhilarating and captivating experience. Their synchronised movements create stunning patterns, and when captured well, these images can become mesmerizing pieces of art. However, shooting schooling fish presents unique challenges that require a blend of technical expertise, artistic vision, and patience.
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Whether you are a novice or an experienced underwater photographer looking to enhance your skills, these seven essential tips will guide you in mastering the art of photographing schools of fish like a pro. By fine-tuning your equipment, learning fish behavior, and employing effective lighting and composition techniques, you can elevate your underwater photography game.

7 Essential Tips To Mastering The Art Of Photographing Schools Of Fish

1. Gear Up: Wide-Angle Lens and Proper Strobe Placement 

To effectively capture the dynamic nature of schooling fish, a wide-angle lens is indispensable. Wide-angle lenses allow you to capture the full scope of a school in one frame, giving your shots a sense of scale and grandeur. Popular choices among professionals include fisheye lenses, such as the Tokina 10-17mm, which provide a wide field of view with minimal distortion. This is particularly useful when you are working in close proximity to your subjects.

Lighting in wide-angle underwater photography poses a greater challenge than in macro photography due to the larger subjects or scenes you are working with. It can be difficult to fully illuminate a wide scene with just strobe light, and the added challenge comes from backscatter—the tiny white specks caused by light bouncing off particles in the water. This can ruin your shot, along with the possibility of creating distracting hot spots in your images from overly reflective fish.
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To avoid these issues, position your strobes wide, slightly behind the housing of your camera, and angled outward. This technique helps minimize backscatter and prevents harsh reflections from highly reflective fish, allowing for a more balanced exposure that maintains the natural beauty of the scene
school of sweetlips

​2. Camera Settings: Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO

When adjusting your aperture, think about your distance from the school of fish.

For shots taken from a distance, an aperture of F5.6 is suitable; for mid-range subjects, F8 works well; and for close-ups in well-lit conditions, F11 will give you a sufficient depth of field to keep both the foreground and background sharp.
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If you find yourself in low-light conditions or at deeper depths, you may need to increase your ISO to maintain proper exposure. Raising the ISO (up to 800 or higher, depending on your camera’s capabilities) helps balance the need for fast shutter speeds and smaller apertures without sacrificing image quality. This balance is critical for capturing well-exposed images in the often challenging underwater environment.
understanding aperture in underwater photography
Achieving the right camera settings is crucial for freezing action and ensuring sharpness in your images.

Schools of fish are often in constant motion, so you’ll want to use a fast shutter speed—at least 1/125th of a second, but preferably faster.

​For larger schools or particularly speedy species, consider increasing your shutter speed to 1/250th or even 1/500th to ensure you capture the action without motion blur.
understanding shutter speed in underwater photography

3. Composition: Create Depth with Strategic Framing

Capturing the grandeur of a school of fish requires more than just technical precision; it demands creative composition as well. One effective way to add depth to your shots is by positioning yourself below the school and shooting upward. This perspective gives a sense of scale and showcases the fish against the surface, often allowing for beautiful lighting or rippling water as a backdrop.
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As schools of fish move together, they often form fascinating patterns such as circles, lines, or spirals. Use these natural formations to create leading lines in your composition. Leading lines guide the viewer's eye through the image, making it more visually engaging.
understanding compostion in underwater photography
create depth within your frame
For even more dramatic results, frame the school against colorful coral reefs, sea fans, or other underwater elements.
frame the school of fish within a reef scene for more dramatic results
Another useful composition technique is to incorporate divers or larger marine animals into the frame. This approach provides a sense of scale and can make the image more immersive, helping viewers appreciate the size and movement of the school.
this trevalli give a better idea of the size of the school of glassfish
This trevalli gives a better sense of scale to this glassfish school

​4. Mastering Natural Light and Strobes

Understanding how light behaves underwater is essential for capturing stunning images.
​The quality of light changes dramatically as you descend, with colors fading and shifting at greater depths. Shallow waters often allow for vibrant colors and clear visibility, while deeper dives may require careful consideration of your lighting options. 
In shallow, clear waters, natural light can create beautiful effects, especially if you shoot upwards towards the surface.
understanding light in underwater phototgraphy
Sunlight create beautiful effects
lighting your subject underwater
​However, as you dive deeper, relying more on strobes becomes necessary to bring out the true colors of the fish and prevent a washed-out appearance in your images.
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The key to effective strobe use lies in balancing artificial lighting with available ambient light. When photographing schools of silvery or reflective fish, it’s wise to turn down your strobe power to avoid hot spots and overexposure. Instead of directly front-lighting your subjects, try using side or backlighting. This technique creates shadows that emphasize the textures and shapes of the fish, enhancing the visual impact of your photos without overwhelming the viewer with bright reflections
the deeper you go the more artificial light you need

​5. Predict Fish Behavior: Anticipate Movement for Better Shots

Understanding fish behavior is critical for capturing compelling images. Schools of fish often change direction rapidly, and they may scatter if they sense a predator or diver approaching. Spend some time observing their movements before you begin shooting. This patience will allow you to anticipate where the school may move next, enabling you to position yourself effectively.
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When approaching the school, try to do so slowly and quietly. The sound of your bubbles can easily startle fish and cause them to disperse. By holding your breath and moving gently, you can get closer to the school without disturbing their natural formation. If the fish do scatter, take a moment to wait and observe, as they will likely regroup and resume their previous behaviour.

It can also be helpful to use your dive buddy to your advantage. By coordinating with them, you can create a natural pathway for the fish to follow, leading them closer to you for the perfect shot.
predict behaviour for killer shots underwater
tell your diving story through photography

​6. Use Depth and Scale to Your Advantage

One of the most impressive aspects of a large school of fish is its sheer scale. To convey this sense of magnitude in your photographs, consider incorporating elements that provide context, such as a diver, a coral reef, or other marine life. This not only adds interest to the shot but also helps viewers appreciate the size and beauty of the school.
using depth of field in underwater photography of schooling fish
schooling barracudas in black and white effect
To create a sense of depth, experiment with layering your compositions. Place elements in the foreground, mid-ground, and background to draw the viewer’s eye through the image. For instance, shooting through a school of fish with a diver or coral in the foreground can create a more immersive experience.


​Additionally, consider using techniques like “panning” to convey movement and energy. Panning involves following the movement of the fish with your camera while using a slower shutter speed. This technique can create a beautiful blur effect, emphasizing the speed and grace of the schooling fish while keeping your subject relatively sharp.
underwater photography, understanding the panning effect

​7. Post-Processing Techniques for Stunning Results

Once you’ve captured your images, the work doesn’t end there. Post-processing is a crucial step in enhancing your underwater photography. Editing software like Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop can help you adjust exposure, contrast, and color balance to bring out the vibrant hues and details that may have been lost underwater.

Start by correcting any exposure issues. Adjust the brightness and contrast to enhance the depth of your images. Pay special attention to the colors; underwater photography often requires color correction due to the natural loss of reds and yellows in deeper waters. Use the white balance adjustment to bring back the warmth that might be lacking in your original shots.
​

In addition, consider cropping your images to improve composition. Sometimes, removing distractions from the edges of the frame can significantly enhance the focus on the school of fish. You can also use sharpening tools to accentuate the details of the fish and the surrounding environment, making your images more impactful.
Finally, explore creative options such as adding vignetting to focus attention on your subject or utilizing local adjustments to enhance specific areas of your image.
use lightroom or other software for post processing your diving photos

Species in the Andaman Sea and How to Photograph Them

The Andaman Sea offers a treasure trove of schooling fish, each species presenting unique photographic opportunities. Here’s a guide to some of the most iconic species and how to capture their beauty:
how to photographe big eye trevallis like a pro
  • Bigeye Trevally
Found in large, swirling schools, these silver fish reflect light beautifully. Position yourself at the edge of the school and shoot upward for a dynamic shot that emphasizes their synchronized movements. Use side lighting to highlight their metallic sheen.
how to photographe baracudas like a pro
  • Barracudas
    Schools of chevron barracudas form striking, spiraling formations. A slow approach is essential to avoid scattering them. Wide-angle shots from below the school against the surface create dramatic compositions.
how to photograph fusiliers like a pro
  • Fusiliers
These small, yet colourful fish create vibrant, flowing ribbons of color. Look for schools near coral reefs and shoot mid-water with natural light to capture their iridescent hues. Experiment with slower shutter speeds to emphasize their motion.
how to photograph surgonfish like a pro
  • Unicornfish and Powder Blue Surgeonfish
    These species are often seen grazing on reefs or schooling near drop-offs. Their bright colors and unique shapes make them excellent subjects for close-up shots. Use a balanced strobe setup to highlight their vivid patterns without overexposing.
how to photograph snappers like a pro
  • Snappers
    These schools resemble curtains of golden-yellow hues. For a dramatic shot, frame them against a contrasting reef or open blue water. Approach slowly to avoid disturbing their tight formation.
how to photograph emperor fish like a pro
  • Emperor Fish and Feeding Frenzies
    Witnessing a feeding frenzy is a spectacular experience. Schools of emperor fish in a frenzy create chaotic yet mesmerizing scenes. Use a fast shutter speed to freeze the action and capture the energy.
how to photograph sweetlip like a pro
  • Sweetlips
    Sweetlips are perfect for head-on portraits. These fish face the current and hold their position, making them cooperative subjects. Approach slowly and use a medium aperture (around F8) for sharp, detailed shots of their faces.
how to photographe bannerfish like a pro
  • Schooling Bannerfish and Moorish Idols
    These colorful fish add vibrancy to any composition. Capture them against coral reefs for a burst of color, and use a wide aperture to blur the background slightly, making their patterns stand out.
how to photographe batfish schools like a pro
  • Batfish are also super photogenic species who often let photographers approach closely without scattering, making them ideal subjects. A diver positioned in the middle of a batfish school can beautifully demonstrate the size and density of the group. If visibility allows, this composition creates a striking contrast between the diver and the fish, giving a sense of awe and scale to your shot.

Understanding Fish Schooling

Fish school for protection, communication, and efficiency. Their synchronized movements deter predators and enable efficient foraging. Schools operate through decentralized decision-making, with individual fish reacting to their nearest neighbors. This complex yet instinctive behavior creates the mesmerizing patterns we observe.
Understanding this behaviour allows photographers to anticipate movements and position themselves for the perfect shot.

Conclusion: how to shoot schools of fish like a pro

Photographing schools of fish is a rewarding endeavor that combines technical skills with artistic expression. By understanding your equipment, mastering lighting techniques, predicting fish behavior, and employing effective composition strategies, you can capture stunning images that showcase the beauty and grace of these underwater wonders.
With practice, patience, and a willingness to experiment, you can create breathtaking photographs that tell a story and transport viewers into the vibrant world beneath the waves. Remember, every dive is an opportunity to learn and grow as a photographer, so embrace the journey and enjoy the beauty of the underwater realm.
how to photograph school of fish like a pro, pinterest pin it
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What to pack for your next liveaboard?

8/10/2024

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What to pack for your next liveaboard?

Packing for a holidays is always a bit stressfull but when your holidays is on a liveaboard, it's even more important to pack correctly....

1/ The open sea has a limited amount of shopping option to buy what you forgot...
2/ If you bring too much, buying extra-weight at the airport can be quite costly.
In this blogpost we will help you pack correctly all of the essential  for your next diving holidays!

What Dive Gear to pack for your next liveaboard?

  • Regulator: If you don't use it regularly, make sure its service is not overdue. Protect it as much as possible in your luggage to avoid damage. Of course a cushioned regulator bag is designed to do that perfectly but it does take valuable space and weight in your luggage. You can also wrap your wetsuit around the regulator, it does the job perfectly!
  • BCD: Don't forget your weight pockets if your BCD needs them, but of course leave your weights and belt at home… any boat will have this onboard for you!​
Regulator+BCD
Packing for a holidays is always a bit stressfull but when your holidays is on a liveaboard, you better pack correctly....
If you take it with you, your diving equipment will probably take up most of the space/ weight in your suitcase and that's totally fine as you wont need much else...

Before placing in in your suitcase, it's important to check the condition of your equipment and to have it serviced if necessary. There is nothing more frustrating than to carry an heavy piece of gear only to find out they are not working when you arrive on holidays and you carried it all across the globe for nothing and now still need to rent!
  • Mask and fins: Before leaving, check that your mask is in good condition (no leakage) and that your fins fit comfortably. Find a mask that fits your face and take a spare in case of problems.
  • Anti-fog spray: This is something you can ditch at home if you are out of space. Most boats (including ours) will provide soap to clean your mask before diving.
  • Snorkel: You may or may not use one for diving but it is always nice to have it if you want to go snorkeling in during your surface intervals.
  • Boots /Neoprene socks: Depending on your type of fins, it may be more comfortable to wear booties or socks, some people swear by using both as socks are easy to pull on and booties easier with socks!
Mask, fins, boots, snorkel... What to pack?
  • Dive computer: Especially on a liveaboard where you do up to 4 dives per day a computer keeps you safe! They don't take space and you can even wear some on your wrist as your travel watch and are one of the most expensive items to rent so I would say this is the first item I recommend for any diver to bring with them. Plus you will be a lot
  • Compass: This is only necessary if you are unguided, check with your liveaboard.
Dive computer is essential for security
  • SMB and reel: These are especially necessary in areas with strong currents and could save your life. Serious liveaboard would provide an SMB to those who don't have one but using yours especially with a reel will probably be more comfortable.
  • Reef hook: This allows you to have your hands free without damaging the reefs, especially for area with strong current. Check with your dive operator before packing it if reef hooks are allowed at your destination as many national parks around the world have now banned their use. In the Similan National park for example, reef hooks and gloves are prohibited inside the national park so divers are asked to keep these on the boat if they bring them. They are allowed and recommended for a cruise in Myanmar where current is stronger at times.
SMB, reel, reef hook... What to pack for a dive?
Choose your wetsuit according to the temperatures of the places where you dive.
  • Wetsuit or Shark skin: Choose your wetsuit according to the temperatures of the places where you dive. Water in Thailand/ Myanmar's Andaman Sea is between 27 and 29 degrees. We recommend a long 3 mmm wetsuit (that suits most divers) but each diver has its own tolerance of hot/ cold so dress accordingly :) Wetsuits are great to protect your more fragile gear while in your suitcase. wrap your reg, mask or camera with it!
  • Gloves: in warm water, gloves are really unnecessary and even forbidden in many national parks. If you wear gloves, make sure they are no excuse to touch anything…

​What Photo Gear to pack for your next liveaboard?

If you are into Underwater photography,  you will need a bit more space for your camera set up:
  • Camera: Make sure you have room in your SD card (or bring several) and that the batteries will last long enough (or bring extra)
  • Housing: Check the O-ring and apply silicone grease to it.
  • Lenses: Fisheye, wide angle, macro.
  • Strobes: Check the O-ring and charge the batteries.
  • Tray, arms, clamps, floating arms and tools (allen key, screwdriver, etc.)
  • Fiber optic cable: Check condition (no scratches or kinks).
UW photography course with The Smiling Seahorse
  • Diving light : Most cruises offer night dives in their schedule, so it is advisable that you have your own dive light. Even during the day, the flashlight can be useful to see better.
  • Portable hard drive: To be able to save all your pictures
  • Chargers and cables for all devices
  • Extra batteries
  • Flash diffusers and backscatter if you use a polycarbonate (transparent) housing.
  • Snoot
  • Laptop computer: To see the pictures taken during the dives

Clothes and shoes you'll need on your next liveaboard

  •  Bathing suits: It is probably what you will wear most of the time so if you don't like wearing them wet, pack more than one.
  • No need for shoes: You will take off your shoes when you board the boat, and you will pick them up only when you arrive at the port so forget your high heels at home :)
  • Light and comfortable clothing: A few shorts, t-shirts/ summer dresses are sufficient.
  • Warm clothing: Even if you are cruising in a tropical destination, you may need warmer clothes. Take a hoodie for cooler evenings.
No need for shoes on a liveaboard: You will take off your shoes when you board the boat, and you will pick them up only when you arrive at the port so forget your high heels at home!

​Medicine ​to pack on your next liveaboard

Any professional Liveaboard, such as The Smiling Seahorse, carry first aid kits onboard, but you may want to pack these for yourself if you don't know the operator you're going with or if you have favorite brands...
  • Ear and Eye drops
  • Antibacterial cream or powder: For coral cuts or small wounds.
  • Seasickness pills: Even if you are not prone to seasickness, being on a boat for a long time and in different weather conditions can be difficult.
  • Anti Diarrhea: The food on the boat may be different from your usual diet depending on the country and may therefore cause intestinal problems
  • Analgesics and pills for sore throats
  • Waterproof plasters / bandages
Your pharmacy to jump on a liveaboard...

Toiletries ​to bring on your next liveaboard

 Like the other products, carry the minimum of toiletries.

  • Moisturizing cream: After spending so much time in the sea water it will be good for your skin. It can also be useful in case of sunburn.
  • Reef friendly Soap and shampoo (provided on The smiling seahorse cruises) : Choosing solid products can help you save space/ weight.
  • Menstrual products: Like tampons and pads but reusable products save space and are more eco-friendly, the menstrual cup for example is a life saver for holidays.
  • Reef safe sunscreen: Choose a sunscreen that does not contain oxybenzone and octinoxate to preserve marine life​
Reef friendly Soap and shampoo (provided on The smiling seahorse cruises) : Choosing solid products can help you save space/ weight.

Other useful items to pack on your next liveaboard.

Towels (While The Smiling Seahorse provides 2 towels per diver, other boats may not) : Prefer microfiber towels to minimize the space they take in your suitcase or bring a towel poncho you can also change under...
  • Universal adapter plug : In some countries the electrical plugs are different, so it is necessary to have adapters so that you can connect your electronic devices.
Universal adapter plug : In some countries the electrical plugs are different, so it is necessary to have adapters so that you can connect your electronic devices.
  • Water bottle: always travel with your own water bottle to refill to minimize the use of single-use plastic. The Smiling Seahorse offers you an aluminum water bottle to use during and after your cruise. You can bring it all around the boat with you to make sure you stay well hydrated!
The Smiling Seahorse offers you an aluminum water bottle to use during and after your cruise.
  • ​Logbook: dont forget your logbook, it might be needed to show your experience and will be a treasured memories for years.
  • Cash : On our cruise, almost everything is included, but you may need money to pay for onboard alcohol consumption, souvenirs and tips!
  • Earplugs: If you are a light sleeper, pack these. They might help you sleep when the boat is sailing at night.
  • Sunglasses : Protect your eyes, there can be a lot of sun reflection on the water.
  • Hat : The sun is very strong in the open sea
  • Mosquito repellent : In the open sea there won't be many mosquitoes but you may want protection on land before/ after the cruise.
  • Rehydration salts : Rehydration salt is very effective to avoid dehydration: the number one cause for DCI! We provide those for free onboard but if you go elsewhere, pack some!
You can take your preferred book on liveaboard and enjoy it on sunset

​Documents ​to bring on your next liveaboard

We recommend you to take a photo of all your essential documents and keep them somewhere safe on your phone/ cloud storage but don't forget to bring:

  • Passport and Visas : Check if your passport is valid for at least six months because some countries require a certain number of months of validity. Make sure you have the right visas for your cruise, especially when your cruise cross a border (heading to Myanmar? Make sure you have a visa for Myanmar and can get a visa on arrival when crossing back to Thailand after the cruise).
  • Certification card : many dive cruises have minimum certification requirements, and some may require proof of a minimum number of dives (bring your logbook for that).
  • Diving Insurance : Take out travel and dive insurance to be covered in case of problems. DAN (Divers Alert Network) and DiveAssure are the most popular diving insurances.

Entertainments to bring on your next liveaboard

This will allow you to occupy your free time, between dives. The internet connection can be very bad so choose activities that don't need it.
Here are some examples :
 
  • Books
  • Magazines
  • Playing cards

Here's an infographic to help you remember,
​feel free to print it for your next diving holidays!

Here's an infographic to help you remember, ​feel free to print it for your next diving holidays!
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Trip Report : Last cruise of the season in Myanmar, exploring the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks

24/6/2024

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Picture
Day 1: High Rock and Shark Cave
Our adventure began with two incredible dives at High Rock, where we were greeted by a mesmerizing school of fusiliers, a ghost pipefish, a rare tiger shrimp, and a tiny, yet adorable, unidentified octopus. The underwater world was teeming with life and color, offering a vibrant start to our journey.
Amazing ghost pipefish
Amazing ghost pipefish
Beautiful platax teira
Platax teira
Enormous fusiliers school
Enormous fusiliers school
Yellow sea snail
Yellow sea snail
anemone crab
Anemone crab
In the afternoon, we headed to Shark Cave, where we were amazed by the abundance of tigertail seahorses and the vibrant yellow sponge covering an iconic channel crossing the island. The coral garden was a spectacle in itself, with shrimps hiding in every crevice and colorful nudibranchs decorating the sandy bottom. Pretty anemones, inhabited by clownfish and porcelain crabs, added to the picturesque scene.
​

Later that afternoon, we visited a charming Moken village. Some of us hiked to the viewpoint at the top of the temple, enjoying panoramic views, while others relished chatting with the locals on the white sand beach. The cultural exchange was as enriching as the diving, adding a unique dimension to our trip.
Colorful corals and seafans
Colorful corals and seafans
Our friend the seahorse...
Our friend the seahorse...
Tiger tail seahorse portrait
Tiger tail seahorse portrait
Mesmerizing underwater view!
Mesmerizing underwater view!
Days 2 and 3: Burma Banks
The extraordinary experiences at High Rock and Shark Cave led us to venture west towards the Burma Banks for the next two days. Burma Banks exceeded our expectations! We woke up to the thrilling sight of dolphins playing in the mirror-like waters, with no land in sight. The water was warm, crystal-clear, and had visibility exceeding 40 meters. As we explored the vast underwater landscape, we were captivated by giant sandy mountains adorned with vibrant coral bommies, teeming with diverse marine life.

One of the highlights was encountering serene and magnificent nurse sharks, a sight that left us in awe. We were fortunate to witness numerous nurse sharks during our dives. The waters were alive with large schools of surgeonfish, big-eyed trevallies, rainbow runners, and colorful fusiliers. It was an unforgettable experience for everyone on board.
A peaceful nurse shark on the reef
Nurse shark at the Burma Banks
Amazing giant seafans
Burma banks's deep blue water
Surgeonfish
The reef is alive with colourful butterflies
Hello! Nice to see you again Sharky!
More nurse sharks
At The Smiling Seahorse, we are passionate about Blackwater dives, and we always organize these special adventures at least once on every trip. During this cruise, we conducted our Black Water Dive near the Burma Banks, over a depth of 300 meters between two giant sandy mountains. The visibility was amazing, and the dive was insane! So much life swirled around our line of lights: larva and post-larva mantis shrimps, sleeper lobsters, ribbon eels, flounders, tonguefish, and many more. First-time encounters for us included a beautiful Swallower (Chiasmodontidae) and a magnificent Cuskeel.
Picture
Picture
Fish and shrimps...Blackwater dive
Fish and shrimps...Blackwater dive
Picture
Flounder
blackwater encounter: a Swallower! (Chiasmodontidae)
Rare blackwater encounter: a Swallower! (Chiasmodontidae)
Mirror effect or loving kiss?
Mirror effect or loving kiss?
Day 4: Western Rocky Area
We returned east towards the southern part of the Mergui Archipelago, diving around the Western Rocky area. Our first stop was the Seafan Forest, a site adorned with towering pinnacles draped in magnificent giant seafans. Here, we were treated to the sight of schools of snappers, big-eyed trevally, and fusiliers gracefully swimming among the colorful marine life. Amidst this underwater jungle of seafans, we were delighted to spot a stonefish and an orangutan crab, adding to the enchanting experience.

Our exploration then led us to Western Rocky, where we encountered two groups of cuttlefish mating and dozens of mantis shrimps! The Mergui Archipelago is a true paradise for shrimp lovers, featuring marble shrimps, tapestry shrimps, spearing mantis shrimps, Durban dancing shrimps, boxer shrimps, cleaner shrimps, and many types of crabs too. The eerie light in the cave added to its charm.
The Pikachu nudibranch
The Pikachu nudibranch
Picture
Durban dancing shrimps
Durban dancing shrimps
Further dives around Eagle Rock and The Islets revealed schools of yellowfin barracuda and trevallies cruising through the pristine waters, along with more cuttlefish and octopus hiding in the myriad of colors of the healthy reef. The vibrant marine life kept us in awe at every turn.
​
Western Rocky also concealed a giant frogfish this week and two pairs of harlequin shrimps. It was hard to say goodbye, but we had exceptional visibility at our last dive site: Volcano, with a unique reef inhabited by comet longfins and other tropical fishes. The diverse marine ecosystem at this site provided a fitting end to our incredible journey.
red giant frogfish myanmar andaman sea liveaboard
Giant frogfish at Western Rocky
orangutan crab mergui
Orangutan crab
Sunset on Mergui Archipelago
Sunset on Mergui Archipelago
decorator crab mergui archipelago diving
decorator crab
Picture
Mv Smiling Seahorse at sunset
Conclusion
This trip through the Mergui Archipelago and the Burma Banks was an unforgettable journey, filled with incredible marine encounters, stunning underwater landscapes, and the charm of local culture. Each dive revealed new wonders, from the smallest shrimp to the majestic nurse sharks. We look forward to our next adventure and the many more amazing dives to come, eager to explore more of the hidden treasures beneath the sea. The memories we created and the marine life we encountered will stay with us forever, fueling our passion for the ocean and its endless mysteries.
Smiles and unlimited fresh fruits
Smiles and unlimited fresh fruits
Our captain admiring the landscape
Our captain admiring the landscape
The cocktail evening
Great company to share these adventures with us!
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    The Smiling Seahorse Diving Blog

    A blog about our diving adventures in Burma and Thailand. Diving trip reports, guest reviews, fishy stories, wildlife fun facts and much more...
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