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Surin & Similan - 30th April to 7th of May 2025 - Trip Report

5/6/2025

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Last trip of the season in surin and similan islands

Season Finale aboard MV Smiling Seahorse: ​
​Best of Similan & Surin – April 30 to May 7, 2025

Our final voyage of the season began with sunshine and calm seas as we welcomed our lovely guests from France, Austria and Koh Tao aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Departing from Phuket’s Marine Charter Pier, our 8-day journey would take us through the heart of Thailand’s most iconic dive destinations--Similan and Surin National Parks.
​

These two marine parks are crown jewels of the Andaman Sea. The Similan Islands, renowned for their dramatic granite boulders, swim-throughs, and endless schools of fusiliers, offer breathtaking topography and pelagic action. Further north, Surin National Park is home to colorful coral gardens, rare macro life, and the legendary Richelieu Rock—one of the best dive sites in Southeast Asia.

Day 1: Similan Beginnings

barracudas forming a tornado in thailand
We began with a check dive at Shark Fin Reef, where thousands of juvenile scissortail and yellowback fusiliers blanketed the water column in glimmering silver. Wrasses and rabbitfish busied themselves around the rocks, while starry dragonets tiptoed across sandy patches. Giant and bluefin trevallies flashed by, and a hawksbill turtle glided over the reef. Batfish and a great barracuda patrolled the boulders below.
At Boulder City, the massive sea fans created a forest beneath the sea. Squat shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps swayed with the current, while giant groupers hid in the crevices. Fusiliers flowed like rivers, and we were treated to a turtle sighting once more.
Statue Bay and Hideaway revealed the wreck and stunning hard coral formations shaped like layered flowers. Schools of yellowback fusiliers swirled around us, and we found a tiny juvenile sweetlips bobbing near the coral—an adorable reminder of reef life’s fragility. A giant moray peeked from his lair while an octopus changed color before our eyes.
We ended the day with a peaceful night dive at West of Eden, where the coral glowed under our lights and crustaceans crept out into the night.

​Day 2: Pinnacles and Swim-Throughs

At West of Eden again in the morning light, a hawksbill turtle passed by gently as  a pipehorse and multibar pipefish darted through soft corals. Blue dragons and oriental sweetlips brightened the boulders below, and a curious sea snake slithered through the reef.
Elephant Head Rock gave us both drama and beauty—giant sea fans waved beside the towering swim-throughs. Blacktip sharks cruised the deep, while batfish posed at safety stop depth. Schools of snappers, scissortail fusiliers, and trevallies zipped by. A pregnant pufferfish hovered in the current, accompanied by her always-alert boxfish companions.
The night dive at Donald Duck Bay was full of life: spiny lobsters, scallops pulsing open and shut, and a nail sea star caught mid-feeding.
Diving with turtles in thailand

​Day 3: Heading North

At North Point, we swam among oriental and harlequin sweetlips, longnose emperors, and more fusiliers than we could count. Giant seafans fanned gently in the current. Then at Three Trees, garden eels wavered in the sand while blue-spotted stingrays zipped by. Barrel sponges lined the seafloor, home to gobies and blennies, while yellowband fusiliers clouded the reef above.
En route to Koh Bon, we were met by a pod of dolphins—an incredible mid-ocean surprise.
At Koh Bon Ridge and Bay, we spotted a baby blacktip shark, potato groupers resting on the reef, and schools of longnose emperors hunting alongside giant sweetlips, redtooth triggerfish, coral groupers, and flocks of masked rabbitfish.
That night, the blackwater dive offered up the strange and wonderful: a blue-ring octopus, baby jacks hiding in salp chains, squid, and translucent larval crabs drifting in the dark.
clownfish in the Similan islands

​Day 4: Barracudas and Batfish

Koh Bon Pinnacle did not disappoint. Massive schools of fusiliers swirled around us as a great barracuda sat motionless at a cleaning station. Oriental sweetlips mingled with batfish and cleaner shrimps in every nook and cranny. A solitary eagle ray glided silently past us, giving the entire scene a dreamlike touch.
At Koh Tachai, the reef exploded with color. Blacktip sharks circled the pinnacle. Schools of barracuda glimmered beneath the sun’s rays. Bigeye jacks formed a living tornado, while lobsters filled every rocky crevice. Between enormous orange seafans and pink coral towers, we admired juvenile angelfish, bicolor cleaner wrasses, yellowtail wrasses, and tiny jewel fairy basslets fluttering among the purple soft corals. The third pinnacle glowed during our final dive, with batfish forming a stately procession across the reef top.
pretty reef scene in similan national park
giant grouper huntin with trevalli

​Day 5: Surin's Soft Side

We reached Rainbow Rock/Yellow Rock and found the colors mesmerizing: soft coral in every hue—yellow, pink, blue, and violet. A resting Jenkins ray sat camouflaged on the sand, and bluefin trevallies darted past schools of silver sweetlips. Hawksbill turtles grazed on sponge, while pipefish and nudibranchs (including a striking purple one) crept along the coral wall.
At Torinla Pinnacle, we found two elegant black ornate ghost pipefish dancing among the gorgonians. A baby white-tip reef shark rested beneath a ledge, and a giant pufferfish lazily floated by with its ever-present remora. Among the coral, a tiny Thecacera—or pikachu nudibranch—entertained macro photographers.
big eye trevalli in richelieu rock
diving with cobia in surin national park

Days 6 & 7: Richelieu Rock Grande Finale

We saved the best for last. Richelieu Rock, a dive site that truly never ceases to amaze, gave us everything. Visibility was perfect. Glassfish, juvenile fusiliers, and baitballs were being chased in every direction by emperors, trevallies, rainbow runners, and snappers. It was chaos in the best possible way. Chevron and yellowtail barracudas swept in and out, and trumpetfish hunted vertically alongside scorpionfish hiding in coral heads.
thailand tiger tail seahorse
fishy dive sites in Thailand's North Andaman
​In between the drama, macro life was thriving: the smallest harlequin shrimp we’ve ever seen balanced on a sea star, tiger tail seahorses swayed with the current, and ghost pipefish hovered delicately in their shadows. Moray eels—fimbriated, honeycomb, and giant—peered out from coral alcoves. We found butterflyfish, damsels guarding eggs, and even an elusive mimic blenny poking from the rubble.
These last dives were the perfect conclusion to our season—a celebration of life, color, and the unmatched magic of the Andaman Sea.
As we returned to Ranong, the sun dipped behind the mangroves and the MV Smiling Seahorse entered her summer rest. But in our minds, the ocean is still alive with swirling fish, curious sharks, and coral gardens dancing in the current.
Until next season, happy bubbles from all of us aboard!​

ghost pipe fish
harlequin shrimp in Richelieu rock, may 2025
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Trip Report- 21st April 2025- North and South Andaman - Thailand

29/5/2025

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North and South Andaman Adventure in Thailand trip report

Thailand's Andaman Sea: North and South – April 21–28, 2025

Exploring Thailand’s Underwater National Treasures
As the sun rose over Ranong, we welcomed an enthusiastic group of divers from the USA, France, Brasil, and Switzerland aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Our journey would take us through some of Thailand’s most iconic national parks—from Surin and Similan to Lanta and Tarutao—each with its own unique seascape and underwater wonders. Spirits were high as we set a course for the famed Surin Islands to begin our underwater adventure. All pictures on this blogpost were taken by our distinguished guests.

Day 1: Surin National Park – A Colorful Beginnin

We started gently at Koh Chi with a smooth check dive. A green turtle greeted us calmly near the surface, while beneath us a flurry of life unfolded. Schools of fusiliers flashed by in silver and gold, flanked by lionfish lurking near coral outcrops. A flabellina nudibranch caught our eye, soon followed by a brilliant Thecacera, better known as the pikachu nudibranch. Moray eels slithered through the cracks, and a stonefish lay well camouflaged in the sand.
Thailand green turtle liveaboard
seahorse in thailand richelieu rock
Seahorse - Photo by Garry Perrenoud
​At Richelieu Rock, the action exploded in all directions. Rainbow runners swept past in schools, chased by jackfish and trevallies. A longface emperor patrolled the reef edge while a ghost pipefish hovered in the current. We marveled at a delicate tiger tail seahorse wrapped around a whip coral and delighted in sightings of harlequin shrimp, white-eyed and giant morays, and a baby mimic octopus dancing across the sand.
Anemone crabs, mackerel, tuna, and hairy shrimp all made appearances, with dogtooth tuna cruising in the distance and clouds of barracudas circling overhead.

Our night dive on Richelieu Rock revealed the reef's secret nocturnal side. Among the crustaceans were banded coral shrimps, squat lobsters, transparent cleaner shrimps, and an energetic boxer shrimp. Decorator spider crabs crept slowly across the corals, while a bold red crab was caught pulling a soft coral free—redecorating the reef, it seemed, in its own way. A trumpetfish patrolled the shallows as scorpionfish hunted under the beams of our torches.

​Day 2: Similan National Park – Granite Giants and Pelagic Glory

diving the similan islands of thailand
View from Donald Duck bay viewpoint
At Koh Tachai Pinnacle, the visibility stretched on forever, revealing a stunning cast of marine life. Giant groupers peered out from overhangs, and bluefin trevallies streaked past in hot pursuit of silvery baitballs. Blacktip sharks cruised the periphery, while massive schools of yellowback and blueback fusiliers lit up the water. We also admired pickhandle barracudas, giant snappers, and dogtooth tuna patrolling in the blue, and couldn’t miss the clown triggerfish darting between boulders. Lobsters peeked from crevices and surgeonfish grazed along the reef walls.
At Koh Bon, we were lucky enough to spot a whitetip reef shark gliding gracefully across the reef, followed by a school of batfish shadowing us from a respectful distance. Giant trevallies patrolled the deeper sections while groups of parrotfish crunched away at the reef. In the coral gardens, butterflyfish, wrasses, and Moorish idols added dazzling detail to the scene.
​
Our blackwater dive that night was a dreamlike journey into the abyss. We were met by strange and mesmerizing creatures: larval flounders fluttering in the current, translucent baby squids, flying gurnards spreading their wing-like fins, and a baby sea elephant drifting gently by. Even a juvenile mantis shrimp made a curious appearance.

tiger egg cowrie - surin islands
Tiger egg cowrie - Photo by Gary Perrenoud
anemonefish in thailand
Anemonefish - Photo by Gary Perrenoud

​Day 3: Similan National Park – Rays, Reefs, and Swim-Throughs

Three Trees delivered calm water and stunning white sand patches covered in garden eels. A porcupine stingray and blue-spotted ray swept by, while above us schools of fusiliers and snappers moved in synchronized waves. Curious trumpetfish hovered and gobies danced along the sandy slopes.
Elephant Head Rock was majestic as always. We drifted through its cavernous swim-throughs, surrounded by walls adorned with giant sea fans and hunting giant moray eels. A white-tip shark slipped by, and above us an eagle ray soared across the sunbeams. We caught sight of a mature yellow boxfish before it tucked into a crevice, while blue-lined groupers and bannerfish hovered near the edges of the boulders.
At West of Eden, a vibrant coral garden greeted us, bursting with color and activity. Fusiliers, parrotfish, groupers, and an array of surgeonfish filled the reef. A hawksbill turtle paddled calmly overhead, and a bold eagle ray buzzed us in the blue. Chromodoris nudibranchs and flabellinas dotted the walls, while a large tuna charged past at the end of the dive.
garden eel in similan islands thailand liveaboard
Garden eel- Photo by Garry Perrenoud

​Day 4: Koh Lanta National Park – Deep Blue Action

Mantis Shrimp with eggs in koh Lanta liveaboard
Mantis Shrimp with eggs - Photo by Aiara Ponce de Leon
We spent the entire day diving the twin giants of the South: Hin Daeng and Hin Muang. The reef was electric—ghost pipefish floated in the current, while juvenile clown triggerfish and sweetlips played along the reef. Schools of  rainbow runners swept by like silver bullets.
​
​We spotted several Wahoos, giant trevallies and bluefin trevallies on the hunt, and even found a massive clown frogfish and hairy shrimps expertly camouflaged on the wall as well as a mantis shrimp carrying its eggs!
frogfish in Koh Lanta thailand
Giant Clown Frogfish - Photo by Aiara Ponce de Leon
Algae Shrimp (Phycocaris simulans) - thailand south andaman
Algae / Hairy Shrimp (Phycocaris simulans) - Photo by Aiara Ponce de Leon
The sunset dive was full of movement and macro life. Helmet crabs and decorator crabs scuttled across the reef while zebra moray eels and common morays hunted along the slopes. Nudibranchs—chromodoris fidelis, annulata, risbecia, and geminus—dotted the rocks like confetti, with bornella anguilla curling through the soft corals.
barracudas diving

​Day 5: Koh Tarutao National Park – Reef Riches and Tropical Surprises

​At 8 Mile, action unfolded fast. Jackfish surged through schools of damsels, while great barracudas enjoyed a spa treatment at a midwater cleaning station. Stonefish crouched on coral heads, hiding in plain sight, while sweetlips and snappers pulsed in the current. Surgeonfish and groupers mingled along the reef, flanked by bannerfish and goatfish.

At Steps, we enjoyed sightings of coral catsharks, triggerfish, angelfish, and a group of blackspot wrasses working over the coral. At Stonehenge, a devil scorpionfish waited in ambush, while a pair of cuttlefish hovered over the sand. We saw blue dragons clinging to overhangs, as well as a mix of tomato, saddleback, and false clown anemonefish.
Coral Catshark at Steps (Atelomycterus marmoratus) - Lipe, Thailand
Coral Catshark at Steps (Atelomycterus marmoratus) - Photo by Aiara Ponce de Leon
At Koh Taru, baby yellow fusiliers filled the reef, flashing like lightning. A baby yellow boxfish stole hearts with its wobbling swim, while a large star puffer looked on with sleepy eyes. Indian Ocean walkman scorpionfish and banded pipefish made rare appearances to round off the day.

Day 6: A Final Sweep Through the South Andaman

Picture
Back at Hin Daeng, batfish and fusiliers welcomed us again, with chromodoris nudibranchs adding pops of color. Hin Muang gave us a fantastic encounter with a clown frogfish, alongside a powerful school of wahoo and a mix of giant and bigeye trevallies.
​

At Koh Haa’s Cathedral, the ethereal beams of sunlight filtering through the swim-through lit up clouds of glassfish, flabellinas, and chromodoris albopunctata. In the Chimney, we added wrasses, gobies, damselfish, and a handful of skunk anemonefish to our growing species list.
coral photo in thailand
Coral closeup by Garry Perrenud
flabeline nudibranch thailand
Pretty Nudis by Aiara Ponce de Leon

Day 7: A Grand Finale

eagle ray swam by in thailand cruise
At Shark Point, our last dive brought us past massive barrel sponges teeming with life. Schools of fusiliers, chromodoris annulata, and a sly scorpionfish shared the reef with sand-colored flounders and the ever-graceful bannerfish. A pair of butterflyfish saw us off as we began our slow ascent.
​As we returned to Phuket, the boat was buzzing with stories, laughter, and glowing memories. From turtles and seahorses to blackwater aliens and reef giants, this trip through Thailand’s best dive sites had truly lived up to its name.
Koh Bida Nok delivered a dramatic last day. A blacktip reef shark cruised by as a yellowtail seahorse clung to coral nearby. A banded sea snake slipped between rocks while cuttlefish hovered in the blue.
fun time onboard thai liveaboard

Video of the trip by our lovely friend Aiara

Picture
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Trip report, Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks – April 12–19, 2025

22/5/2025

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12th to 19th April 2025 - trip report
​Our journey began in Ranong, where our international guests—this time hailing from France, Austria, and the Philippines—stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, their eyes alight with excitement. After clearing Thai immigration, we crossed the border into Kawthoung, Myanmar, where the rhythmic stamping of passports signaled the official start of our voyage into one of the last untouched marine frontiers: the breathtaking Mergui Archipelago. It was a pleasure welcoming back some good friends and creating new friendships this week.
side of the smiling seahorse liveaboard
sunset on the andaman sea

Check dive site on High Rock

The ocean greeted us gently at High Rock, our check dive site, where the clear waters hinted at the wonders lying beneath the surface. Silver ribbons of yellowtail barracudas spiraled gracefully around us, mingling with yellowback fusiliers weaving effortlessly through the current. A shy moray eel peeked out from its crevice, while a solitary thornback boxfish hovered calmly nearby. Hidden among the branches of a gorgonian fan, a tiger tail seahorse played a game of underwater hide-and-seek. Vibrant nudibranchs—tiny explosions of color—adorned the reef like living confetti, as schools of butterflyfish flitted past, as curious about us as we were about them.
honeycomb muray eel - myanmar
Greencup coral eating nudibranch
school of surgeonfish in shark cave burma

At Three Islets, the magic intensified​

At Three Islets, the magic only deepened. Shark Cave pulsed with life: a proud adult yellow tiger tail seahorse clung steadfastly to a coral branch, while banded stick pipefish slithered gracefully through the rubble below. Along the rocky surfaces, Chromodoris and Flabellina nudibranchs performed their delicate, colorful dance. Above, fusiliers—blue-lined, yellow-lined, and every shade in between—formed a shimmering curtain that rippled across the reef. A sleek wahoo darted through the school like a silver arrow, while angelfish and parrotfish painted the scene with bold strokes of tropical color.
moray eel and seahorse
nurshe shark with diver at the burma banks
nurse shark in myanmar
myanmar giant barrel spong

Square Rock and Submarine

At Square, the underwater action showed no sign of slowing. Yellowstripe trevallies and longnose emperors darted through shimmering clouds of glassfish, while brassy and golden trevallies cruised along the reef’s edge like vigilant sentinels. Amid the commotion, tiger tail seahorses clung calmly to coral branches, unbothered by the lively currents. Butterflyfish and wrasses wove through the midwater, adding intricate layers to the reef’s silent symphony.

At Submarine, gentle currents allowed us to drift effortlessly alongside schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and golden dash fusiliers. A marble ray glided like a shadow over the sandy bottom, barely disturbing the drowsy goatfish resting below. Nearby, damselfish fiercely guarded their nests, while a curious trumpetfish trailed us, blending amusingly with our dive gear.

After a surface interval filled with laughter and fresh fruit, we stepped ashore at the quaint village of Khun Pi Lar. Its white-sand beach and serene Buddha temple offered a peaceful contrast to the vibrant underwater world.

As night fell, we returned to Shark Cave, now transformed into a nocturnal wonderland. Sweetlips slumbered beneath ledges, decorator crabs scuttled by in bizarre camouflage, and a ghost pipefish twirled in our torchlight. A Chromodoris geminus glowed like a living jewel, illuminating the darkness with its fluorescent brilliance.
tigertail seahorse of Myanmar
Andaman Sea School of Jacks
many many fish in mergui archipelago

​Then, it was time to sail further west toward the legendary Burma Banks.

We began the next day with Roe Bank, where nurse sharks rested languidly on the sandy bottom, surrounded by shimmering schools of silver sweetlips. Nearby, a marlin breached near the boat—an electrifying moment of pure ocean magic. The fish schools were immense: scissortail fusiliers, yellowback fusiliers, and black-and-white snappers surged like living tides. Giant sweetlips and redfin butterflyfish hovered near coral heads, accompanied by inquisitive triggerfish and a vibrant assortment of wrasses.

At Rainbow Bank, our third dive brought us face-to-face with a swirling vortex of bigeye trevallies—a mesmerizing underwater tornado. Nurse sharks cruised by silently, while a mangrove whipray materialized from the gloom like a gliding UFO. Amid the bustle of sweetlips and giant snappers, we spotted elegant pairs of bannerfish fluttering gracefully, and clouds of anthias painted the coral outcrops in vivid orange hues.

Our sunset dive was nothing short of exhilarating. One group encountered a bold and curious bull shark, while nurse sharks hovered in the twilight shadows. Honeycomb moray eels slithered between coral heads, and territorial triggerfish patrolled the sandy slopes, fiercely guarding their nests. Pufferfish drifted by slowly, like whimsical balloons suspended in the deep.

Meanwhile, others descended into the inky blackness for a blackwater dive—a surreal journey into the unknown. From the depths rose tiny post-larval creatures: flounders, squid, even a sea elephant, their translucent forms glowing under our lights like alien visitors in a dreamlike ballet from the abyss.
bannerfish schooling in mergui archipelago
diving with mutlicolor schools of fish in burma
preparing blackwater diving in myanmar
myanmar blackwater diving
blackwater diving liveaboard
alien on blackwater diving
sea angel on blackwater dive
squid on a blackwater dive
blackwater diving critters in myanmar

The next morning, Roe Bank greeted us again

The next morning, Roe Bank welcomed us once more. It was so good, it was worth coming back! Dogtooth tuna sliced through vast shoals of fusiliers, their speed a blur against the swirling backdrop. Marble rays lay half-buried in the sand, only to lift off with a graceful flap, vanishing into the blue. We wound our way around boulders teeming with surgeonfish, while massive potato groupers watched from the shadows, still and imposing.

At Coral Bank, the excitement continued. Nurse sharks cruised alongside us, and another bull shark made a brief but thrilling appearance. Towering schools of yellow dot fusiliers and surgeonfish filled the water column, while rainbow runners shot through them like silver missiles. Below, groupers, triggerfish, and curious blennies darted among the coral rubble, each corner revealing new life.

Silvertip Bank brought our adventure to a spectacular finale. Nurse sharks patrolled in lazy circles, marble rays soared effortlessly overhead, and a majestic Napoleon wrasse glided past with quiet authority. Curtains of fusiliers shimmered like underwater rainbows, momentarily parting to reveal damselfish, groupers, and sergeant majors weaving through the colorful chaos.
julien and nurse shark
xeno crab in burma
burma banks shark mating
goby on whip coral

On Day 5, Seafan Forest

We returned to Seafan Forest under crystal-clear conditions, the visibility offering a perfect window into the reef’s vibrant life. Fusiliers flowed like living rivers across the coral landscape, pursued by sleek great barracudas and darting rainbow runners. A pharaoh cuttlefish shimmered with ever-changing colors as it glided by, while a stonefish lay perfectly still, masterfully disguised among the reef. A proud tiger tail seahorse clung delicately to a sea fan, and nearby, a devil scorpionfish nestled between sponge and coral, its spiny silhouette barely detectable.

The adventure continued at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky Cave. Schools of batfish drifted gracefully overhead, five-line snappers pulsed across the reef in synchronized bursts, and twinstripe fusiliers streamed past like underwater arrows.
Chromodoris nudibranchs were abundant, their vibrant bodies accompanied by delicate, ribbon-like spirals of freshly laid eggs. Sponge snails peeked from their porous homes, while giant moray eels and fimbriated eels slinked through the crevices. A bright red frogfish, bold and still, posed patiently for photos—one nestled beneath the arch, the other tucked against the rocky wall like a secret waiting to be discovered.
giant frogfish at Western Rocky
myanmar beautiful reef scene
lionfish in myanmar
big eye trevallies near the reef
durban dancing shrimp mergui

On Day 6, Seafan Forest again... for more magic

We returned once more to Seafan Forest, and the magic continued. Nudibranchs spiraled their ribbon-like eggs onto the reef, stonefish vanished into their surroundings with expert camouflage, and schools of yellowback fusiliers pulsed rhythmically over coral heads like golden currents. Back at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky, we were delighted to find our familiar pair of giant frogfish—still motionless, still mesmerizing—surrounded by a kaleidoscope of reef life. Damselfish fiercely guarded their patches of eggs, while curious puffers hovered nearby, inspecting our bubbles with wide-eyed fascination.

Our final dive brought us to Dendro’s Pinnacle—and what a farewell it was. Visibility stretched endlessly as we drifted through clouds of five-line snappers and golden trevally. Yellowtail barracudas shimmered like blades in the distance.
​We were treated to the sight of not one, but two dazzling Chromodoris species--annulata and reticulata—while a graceful orange-spotted pipefish waved a quiet goodbye from the coral.

batfish schooling in Burma
quiet night onboard watching the moon rise
juvenile angelfish in Mergui Archipelago
It was the perfect close to a week of unforgettable dives, breathtaking marine encounters, and friendships forged in the blue.
new friendships onboard
liveaboard guests
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Myanmar Trip Report – April 2nd to 10th, 2025: Manta and giant frogfish in Mergui Archipelago!

25/4/2025

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April 2025 trip report in Mergui Archipelago
Scarlett Taylor, marine biologistScarlett Taylor
April greeted us with calm seas, radiant skies, and a boat brimming with international energy as divers from Belgium, France, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Italy stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Together, we set off on an unforgettable journey through the stunning Mergui Archipelago and the remote Burma Banks during our highly anticipated Manta Ray Expedition. Promising close encounters with ocean giants and elusive marine wonders, this trip didn’t just meet expectations—it exceeded them.

What made this expedition truly exceptional was the presence of Scarlett Taylor, a marine biologist from Canada with a Master’s degree in Biology from Dalhousie University. Scarlett brought a wealth of knowledge and infectious enthusiasm, sharing captivating insights into manta ray behavior, shark ecology, and the importance of protecting critical marine habitats. Drawing from her experience with the Manta Trust and her current work with Global Reef in Thailand, she hosted daily talks that deepened our understanding and appreciation of the incredible creatures we encountered beneath the waves.

Once we cleared immigration in Kawthoung, we set a course northwest into Burmese waters, ready to explore the untamed heart of the Andaman Sea.

Day 1: Warming Up in the North

Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the adventure ahead. A delicate Tiger Tail Seahorse nestled gracefully among the corals stole the show, while a curious Cowfish drifted by like a miniature UFO. We cruised alongside a shimmering school of Pickhandle Barracudas, silver scales catching the sunlight, as Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef edges with quiet authority. In the cracks and coral bommies, Butterflyfish flitted about while bold little Damselfish held their ground, helping us ease back into the rhythm of the deep.
​
Next, we headed to Ba Wei, where a striking black Ribbon Eel waved like a ribbon of ink from its burrow, and a pair of elegant Jann’s Pipefish twirled delicately among soft coral tendrils. At the cleaning stations, Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasses hovered with purpose, ready for business, while vibrant Angelfish and shimmering Anthias painted the reef in brilliant hues.

We capped off the day at South Twin, where a lively current brought in the big fish. Bluefin and Giant Trevallies swept past with power, joined by the lightning-fast Rainbow Runners. Yet even amid the rush, we paused to admire the more subtle beauty—Moorish Idols and Bannerfish swaying gracefully in the swell. As night fell, we slipped beneath the surface once more for a mysterious dive in South Twin Bay. There, Parrotfish dozed inside their protective mucous cocoons, and stealthy Lionfish prowled through rocky crevices, adding a touch of nighttime drama to an already magical day.
Tigertail seahorse
schooling bannerfish around a giant barrelsponge
pair of Burtterflyfish Andaman Sea liveaboard
pikhandle barracudas mergui archipelago

Day 2: Shark Cave Adventure

We dedicated a full day to exploring the wonders of the Shark Cave area, diving between Shark Cave, Square Rock, and Submarine. Each site delivered in spades. A shy Bamboo Shark peeked from beneath a rocky ledge, while Tiger Tail Seahorses clung delicately to sea fans swaying in the shallows. Five Marble Rays glided past in graceful formation, skimming over coral gardens teeming with life—Tomato Clownfish darting through anemones, curious Cuttlefish drifting by, and schools of Batfish swirling like a slow-motion ballet overhead.

The macro magic was just as mesmerizing. Electric-hued Chromodoris nudibranchs lit up the reef, cryptic Decorator Crabs disguised themselves among the rubble, and alien-like Xeno Crabs gripped tightly to whip corals, looking like creatures from another planet. Meanwhile, Gold Spot Trevallies zipped through the shallows in gleaming flashes, as the reef bustled with a kaleidoscope of Wrasses, Groupers, and Triggerfish going about their vibrant, busy lives.
Nurse Shark Burma banks 2025
cuttlefish magic in Myanmar
blotched sting ray in Myanmar diving trip
Diving with Batfish in Burma

Day 3: Black Rock Brilliance

Black Rock never fails to impress—and today, it truly outdid itself. Across four exhilarating dives, we were treated to four manta ray sightings, including two unforgettable close encounters with majestic oceanic mantas. One glided directly overhead, lingering in the dappled sunlight as our bubbles rose to meet it—an awe-inspiring moment that left the entire group breathless with wonder.

Below and around us, schools of Big Eye Trevallies moved like rolling silver waves, creating a mesmerizing backdrop to the manta magic. In the reef’s quieter corners, diligent Harlequin Shrimps nibbled away at sea stars, their intricate patterns standing out against the rocky crevices. A ghostly White Devil Scorpionfish, nearly indistinguishable from the stone it rested on, reminded us just how much goes unnoticed until you truly look.

The entire reef pulsed with energy—Snappers darted in tight formation, Surgeonfish weaved through the chaos, and Sweetlips hovered with their signature pout. Black Rock delivered a sensory feast, once again proving why it’s one of the crown jewels of the Andaman Sea.
myanmar oceanic manta ray
harlequin shrimp in Black Rock, Burma
Giant manta ray in Burma
baby blue surgeon fish burma banks

Day 4: North Twin & Into the Dee

At North Twin Pinnacle, the blue came alive with motion and grace. Four Eagle Rays soared past like underwater kites, effortlessly gliding through the open water. All around us, Fusiliers streamed in dazzling bursts of blue and yellow, like living confetti swirling on the current. Below, the reef buzzed with life—Snappers and regal Emperor Angelfish filled the coral-scape, occasionally parting to make way for larger visitors, including a sleek Tuna cruising by in the distance during our third dive at North Twin Reef.
Eagle ray encounter at North Twin
eagle ray portrait myanmar diving highlight
angel fish in burmese water
That night, we descended into the inky darkness for a blackwater dive—an ethereal and otherworldly adventure. Suspended in the abyss, we drifted alongside glowing, translucent larval creatures, some so strange and delicate they seemed imagined. Many of these deep-sea drifters may never be seen again in their adult forms, making each encounter feel like a fleeting secret of the ocean. It was a surreal and spellbinding end to a truly magical day.
shrimp blackwater burma
andaman sea blackwater diving with squid

Day 5 & 6: reaching the remove waters of Burma Bank

The Burma Banks unfolded before us like a dreamscape of the deep—vast, remote, and teeming with life. Over eight thrilling dives, we shared encounters that will be etched in memory for years to come. In the golden afternoon light, three Bull Sharks patrolled a ridge with quiet dominance, while a passing Tiger Shark sent a ripple of adrenaline through the group, hearts pounding in unison.

Beneath coral overhangs, Nurse Sharks lay in calm repose, while a juvenile Grey Reef Shark darted with youthful agility through a swirling school of Trevally. A graceful Turtle glided by, utterly unbothered by our presence, as if we were just another current in its path. Meanwhile, enormous Marble Rays stirred the sandy bottom with their powerful wings, sending Gobies and Sand perch scattering like leaves in the wind.

The Burma Banks delivered wild beauty in every direction—a raw and humbling reminder of the ocean’s power, mystery, and grace.
nurse shark at the burma banks
ancien coral formation burma banks
marble ray burma banks
burma banks giant bummies

Day 7 & 8: Western Rocky Farewel

As we made our way back toward the Western Rocky area, Seafan Forest welcomed us with one last breathtaking surprise—a graceful Hammerhead Shark gliding past in a silent, unforgettable flyby (unfortunately not captured by any camera!).

Tucked among the swaying sea fans, another perfectly camouflaged Tigertail Seahorse revealed itself, while Stonefish lurked in plain sight, waiting to be discovered. In the shallows, Cuttlefish shimmered with vibrant color displays, their bodies flashing like living neon signs. Our macro luck held steady with one final encounter—a charming pair of Harlequin Shrimps, closing the loop on a week of small, spectacular finds.

At The Cave and Eagle Rock, the weird and wonderful made their curtain call. A hulking Giant Frogfish rested motionless in the open, its shape barely distinguishable from the coral around it. A cleverly hidden Elbow Crab and a regal Slipper Lobster reminded us once more that in the underwater world, magic hides in the details—and the surprises truly never stop.
stonefish on top of seafan forest
table coral mergui archipelago
porcelain crab in Burma
myanmar prestine coral reef

Thanks to Gregor Koschicek for this stunning video of the trip ! 
As we sailed back toward Thailand, the sun dipped below the horizon, closing the chapter on a week filled with manta ballets, thrilling shark encounters, and kaleidoscopic coral gardens. With Scarlett’s expert insights adding depth to every dive, and a spirited crew of divers from around the world sharing the experience, this Manta Ray Expedition became more than a trip—it became a story we’ll be telling for years.

Already dreaming of the next one? So are we...
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South and North Andaman Sea, Thailand: March 23rd to 31st, 2025. Whale Shark Expedition

24/4/2025

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For this Whale Shark Expedition, we were thrilled to welcome aboard the M/V Smiling Seahorse a diverse group of divers from Romania, France, the USA, and Australia. Adding to the excitement, we were joined by Josh Johnson, a marine biologist specializing in whale shark conservation. Based in Koh Tao, Josh is a graduate of the University of Plymouth’s BSc Ocean Science and Marine Conservation program.

Josh shared fascinating insights into whale shark biology, ecology, and conservation:
“Although they are the largest fish in the world, they remain one of the least studied sharks globally, especially in Thai waters. With so much still to learn about them, it is crucial to explore new methods for monitoring their migration patterns and feeding hotspots. This allows us to implement the best conservation strategies to protect these gentle giants.”

Setting sail from Phuket on March 23rd, we first explored Koh Lanta National Park and Koh Tarutao National Park for three days before heading north to discover the wonders of the Similan and Surin National Parks. Each of these marine sanctuaries is a jewel of the Andaman Sea, boasting a unique blend of stunning underwater landscapes, thriving marine life, and vibrant coral ecosystems.
    •    Koh Lanta National Park is renowned for its dramatic limestone formations and rich marine biodiversity.
    •    Koh Tarutao, the largest national park in the Andaman, remains a pristine paradise with spectacular reefs and abundant pelagic life.
    •    The Similan Islands, world-famous for their breathtaking granite boulders and crystal-clear waters, offer incredible diving experiences with flourishing coral gardens and deep pinnacles.
    •    Surin National Park, home to the legendary Richelieu Rock, features one of Thailand’s most spectacular dive sites, teeming with marine life and a prime location for large pelagic encounters.

This unforgettable expedition combined breathtaking scenery, exceptional dives, and invaluable knowledge, leaving us all with a deeper appreciation for whale sharks and their conservation.
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Day 1 – Koh Lanta National Park

Our check dive at Koh Ha Lagoon provided a smooth and scenic introduction to the trip. Among the coral bommies, we spotted a perfectly camouflaged Ornate Ghost Pipefish, swaying gently with the current, while a curious Coral Grouper patrolled its reef territory. Schools of Yellowback Fusiliers darted through the water, accompanied by striking Emperor Angelfish, adding bursts of vibrant color to the scene.

In the afternoon and evening, we explored Hin Mueang and Hin Daeng, where the reefs were teeming with life. A Clown Frogfish, perfectly still and expertly blended into a sponge, caught our attention. Nearby, pairs of Ornate Ghost Pipefish hovered delicately in the water. Overhead, Red-Toothed Triggerfish swirled in mesmerizing formations, while Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef in search of prey. Schools of Rainbow Runners flashed by in unison, and among the hard corals, we admired a striking Peacock Grouper and a Blue-Barred Parrotfish lazily grazing.
triggerfish in South Andaman, thailand
ghostpipefish in thai waters
clownfish in lanta islands
butterflyfish in similan islands, elephant head rock

Day 2 – Koh Tarutao National Park

​The morning began at Hin Paad Mile, where Giant Trevallies moved in synchronized schools, their silver bodies flashing as they sliced through the water. Beneath a coral ledge, a massive Potato Grouper rested, watching us with a slow, deliberate gaze. Around us, schools of Bengal Snappers and Blue-and-Gold Fusiliers shimmered, creating a breathtaking display of color and motion.

At Stonehenge, the highlight was a perfectly camouflaged Tigertail Seahorse, delicately gripping onto a sea fan. Nearby, an Indian Walkman lay in wait on the sand, its intricate fins blending seamlessly with the ocean floor.
crab in a pretty jellyfish
school of trevalli in tarutao national park thailand
We ended the day with a mesmerizing Blackwater dive, drifting in the darkness while witnessing an extraordinary parade of tiny pelagic creatures rising from the depths--baby squids, larval fish, and even a tiny pelagic seahorse making a rare appearance.
sea snail thailand blackwater
blackwater diving in thailand - juvenile fish
sea butterfly on blackwater dive
blackwater diving photo of a pufferfish baby
halfbeak thailand blackwater
black water diving in south andaman thailand
squid of thailand - blackwater
shrimp blackwater thailand

Day 3 – Koh Lanta National Park

Before crossing to the Similan Islands, we completed one last dive at Hin Mueang, where we revisited our Clown Frogfish and discovered a few new additions to the scene. Moorish Idols glided effortlessly above the reef, a school of Twinstripe Fusiliers darted between coral formations, and a well-camouflaged Bearded Scorpionfish lay hidden among the rocks, waiting patiently for unsuspecting prey.
goatfish schooling in thai water
diving with a frogfish in koh lanta
anemone fish family in koh lanta

Day 4 – Similan Islands, Similan National Park

Our dive at Shark Fin Reef welcomed us with a breathtaking spectacle of marine life—schools of Lunar Fusiliers swirled around us in a dazzling display, while Parrotfish crunched noisily on the reef, shaping the underwater landscape with every bite.

At West of Eden, we encountered a playful Octopus, shifting colors in a mesmerizing dance before our eyes. A Rock Mover Wrasse skillfully flipped coral rubble in search of hidden prey, while a Psychedelic Batwing Seaslug nestled discreetly in a crevice, adding a splash of vibrant color to the reef.

At Elephant Head Rock, the current carried us effortlessly past Giant Trevallies hunting in the blue, while a pair of Sweetlips hovered serenely beneath an overhang. In a sandy patch, a White Tip Reef Shark lay motionless, completely undisturbed by our presence.

We ended the day with a captivating night dive at Turtle Rock, where Basket Stars unfurled their intricate arms to feed, and Decorator Crabs, masterfully disguised with sponges and algae, scuttled stealthily across the seabed.
psychedelic sea slug batwing thailand south andaman
school of trevalli in thailand hin muang lanta
favorite nudibranch of thailand
lionfish in koh lanta - hin daeng

Day 5 – Similan Islands, Similan National Park

Xmas Point welcomed us with a vibrant display of reef life—from the dazzling flashes of Blue Striped Snappers to the sleek, steady glide of a Barracuda lurking in the distance.

At 3 Trees, a Blue Spotted Stingray lay half-buried in the sand, perfectly camouflaged, while a massive Potato Grouper loomed near the coral formations, surveying its domain.

Meanwhile, Koh Bon Pinnacle and West Ridge were alive with movement, as schools of Rainbow Runners and Longnosed Emperors wove effortlessly through the currents, creating a mesmerizing underwater ballet.
tomatoe grouper
thailand is a very fishy dive spot
giant seafan in similan island's three trees
beautiful gorgonean in similan islands thailand

Day 6 – Similan National Park

Returning to Koh Bon Pinnacle and West Ridge, we were greeted by Batfish, curiously circling around us, while Barracudas held their ground against the current.

Later, at Koh Tachai Pinnacle, we navigated through massive boulders draped in soft coral, discovering Lobsters tucked away in crevices, more Barracudas patrolling the reef, and a sleek Black Tip Reef Shark gliding effortlessly past—an exhilarating finale to an unforgettable dive.
diving with barracudas
hawkfish in thailand north andaman sea
thailand reef scene

Days 7 & 8 – Surin National Park

Our final two days at Richelieu Rock were nothing short of spectacular. The site was teeming with life--Ornate Ghost Pipefish hovered gracefully among feather stars, Tigertail Seahorses clung to delicate sea whips, and Porcelain Crabs filtered plankton with meticulous precision. Banded Stick Pipefish wove through the reef, while Big Eye Trevallies and Giant Trevallies darted back and forth in a relentless hunting frenzy.

In the blue, schools of Barracudas hung motionless, suspended in perfect formation. We were mesmerized by a vast mixed school of Rainbow Runners, Emperors, and Big Eye Trevallies, moving in unison like a single, fluid entity. Red Snappers lurked near the coral formations, adding the final flourish to an already unforgettable experience.

As we sailed back to Ranong, the excitement and memories of the trip lingered among our group. The Whale Shark Expedition had given us not only breathtaking encounters with Thailand’s marine giants but also a deeper appreciation for the intricate beauty of the Andaman Sea’s underwater world.

Until next time, we carry with us the wonders of the deep and the hope for future encounters with the gentle giants we strive to protect.
thailand reef scene
fun team onboard thailand liveaboard
thailand diving best dive sites
relaxing between the dives
lovely guests this week
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Best of North and South Andaman Sea, Thailand: March 14 - March 21, 2025

28/3/2025

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trip report 23rd of March 2025
Our latest adventure took us across the best dive sites of the North and South Andaman Sea, Thailand. This week, we welcomed guests from the USA, Germany, France, Switzerland, and Israel aboard the Smiling Seahorse in Ranong, eager to explore the wonders of the Surin, Similan, Lanta, Tarutao and Koh Phiphi National Parks. Each of these parks offers unique marine landscapes, from vibrant coral gardens to dramatic underwater pinnacles, promising an unforgettable journey beneath the waves.

Day 1: A Colorful Start in the Surin National Park

​Our first dive at Koh Chi was a gentle check dive, allowing everyone to get comfortable while enjoying the sights of a friendly hawksbill turtle gliding through the reef. Schools of blue-tailed snappers created a mesmerizing display, while a tiny yellow boxfish peeked out from the coral, amusing us with its clumsy movements. Among the vibrant reef, we spotted angelfish, fusiliers, and parrotfish darting between the coral formations.
coral table and butterflyfish
ghost pipefish
tigertail seahorse
thailand andaman clownfish
emperors and trevalli hunting in Richelieu Rock
​The second and third dives brought us to the legendary Richelieu Rock, where life teemed in every direction. Enormous schools of rainbow runners and jacks swirled together, accompanied by long-face emperor fish patrolling the depths. A delicate tiger tail seahorse swayed with the current, while ghost pipefish skillfully camouflaged themselves among soft corals. Peering into crevices, we discovered peacock mantis shrimp and flabellina nudibranchs adding bursts of color to the scene. Surgeonfish, fairy basslets, and Moorish idols flitted through the coral gardens, making for a lively spectacle.
For our night dive at Richelieu Rock, the mysterious "green monster"—a dense thermocline—rolled in, adding a touch of adventure to the dive. Despite the water movement, we enjoyed the eerie sight of moray eels hunting under the cover of darkness, while countless crabs and shrimps scuttled across the reef. A porcupinefish hovered nearby, watching the activity unfold.

Day 2:  Entering ​Similan National Park at Koh Tachai and Koh Bon

​At Koh Tachai, our first dive began with a fascinating scene: a pair of white-banded cleaner shrimp diligently grooming a large moray eel. Nearby, two painted spiny lobsters peeked out from their rocky hiding spots. Jackfish patrolled the blue, moving in pairs as they hunted in synchrony. Amid the bustling reef, we found butterflyfish, wrasses, and gobies going about their daily routines.
On our second dive at Koh Tachai, we drifted along with a large school of batfish, their graceful movements mesmerizing against the backdrop of the deep blue. The reef revealed hidden gems like a Maldives sponge sea snail and a pustulose wart slug, while angelfish and bannerfish weaved between the corals.
Koh Bon was our next destination, where fantastic visibility allowed us to fully appreciate the marine spectacle. A big family of batfish greeted us in the bay, their silver bodies flashing in the sunlight. As we ventured further, a massive school of yellow snappers engulfed us, moving as one. Mantis shrimp darted between the rocks, while ghost pipefish hovered delicately among the soft corals. The presence of giant groupers and the occasional passing fusilier added to the excitement.
snake blenny Blackwater diving
school of batfish
pufferfish Blackwater diving
Happy Birthday!!!
Happy Birthday!!!

Day 3: Exploring the Similan Island

​Our morning dive at Three Trees introduced us to a resting hawksbill turtle, peacefully nestled among the corals. Pipefish drifted along the sandy bottom, while rays and lobsters lurked under overhangs. The reef was alive with fairy basslets, fusiliers, and wrasses, their colors creating a dazzling underwater display.

At Elephant Head Rock, we navigated through the boulder formations, where porcelain crabs clung to their anemone homes. A small family of tunas cruised by, accompanied by schools of fusiliers and snappers. West of Eden offered a spectacular sighting of a Sagaminopteron psychedelicum nudibranch, alongside an octopus skillfully changing colors to blend with its surroundings. A sea snake made a brief appearance, weaving gracefully through the reef.

​As the sun began to set, we returned to Koh Bon, where a large school of milkfish swam past, shimmering in the golden light.
coral and cute blenny
Day octopus in Similan islands
juvenile clown triggerfish
how cute is this baby clown triggerfish???
psychedelic batwing sea slug, nudibranch hunting in thailand
pair of ornate ghost pipefish in Thailand

Day 4: Lanta National Park : Macro Wonders and Pelagic Thrill

​Our first dive at Hin Nam was filled with delicate discoveries, including ghost pipefish blending seamlessly with the reef and a juvenile clown triggerfish darting between the corals. Later, at Hin Daeng, we encountered tiny juvenile sweetlips moving in their signature wavy dance, while juvenile angelfish added a splash of color to the rocky crevices.
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Hin Muang provided thrilling action as tunas and rainbow runners hunted in the open water. Schools of batfish hovered effortlessly, while hundreds of red-tooth triggerfish filled the blue and a magical encounter with a clown frogfish. Our night dive at Hin Daeng revealed an entirely different world, where helmet crabs and decorator crabs scuttled across the seabed, and moray eels—both the common and zebra varieties—prowled for prey
pretty reef scene with moon wrass on top of soft coral
big eye trevalli in richelieu rock

Day 5:  Tarutao National Park : Cobia, Jacks, and Mysterious Creature

At 8 Mile, the dive site was alive with schools of large jacks and pairs of smaller hunters weaving through the reef. Among the coral, a beautiful tiger tail seahorse clung to its perch. Snappers and damselfish formed a colorful backdrop as we drifted through the site.
Stonehenge provided an awe-inspiring moment as we encountered a massive lion’s mane jellyfish, its trailing tentacles sheltering tiny fish. Blue dragons and an eagle ray gliding by added to the magic.
At Koh Taru, porcupinefish gathered in abundance, while southern stingrays rested on the sandy bottom. Koh Sawang brought sightings of comet fish and a well-camouflaged devil scorpionfish lurking among the coral.
We also had great encounters on blackwater dives with Indian Halibut and cusk eel!!!
blackwater diving in thailand indian halibut
fantastic finds on blackwater diving in the andaman sea: cusk eel
octopus in blackwater dive
many cephalopods in the andaman sea, especially on blackwater dives

Day 6: Lanta National Park

​Returning to Hin Daeng, we found zebra and honeycomb moray eels slithering through the reef, while a school of batfish hovered gracefully nearby. Hin Muang offered another chance to observe ghost pipefish and playful juvenile clownfish, along with a tiny yellow boxfish hiding in a coral crevice.
Our final dives at Koh Haa brought us face-to-face with a hawksbill turtle cruising through the Cathedral, while thousands of glassfish filled the Chimney, creating a mesmerizing, swirling effect.
clown frogfish in Koh Lanta national park
clown frogfish with red tooth triggerfish in the background
Wonderful pink soft coral
Soft coral is thriving in Thai water

Day 7: A Grand Farewel

On our last day, Koh Bida Nok did not disappoint, with blacktip reef sharks and a majestic leopard shark making an appearance. At Shark Point, the grand finale included hundreds of yellowtail barracudas weaving through the water, while devil scorpionfish lay in wait among the coral.
With unforgettable dives behind us, we made our way back to Phuket, bidding farewell to our wonderful guests after an incredible week exploring Thailand’s best dive sites. Until next time, the Andaman Sea will be waiting!
Happy Faces cocktail on The MV Smiling Seahorse
Happy Faces cocktail on The MV Smiling Seahorse
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Liveaboard Dive Trip Report: Mergui Archipelago, March 6-12, 2025

18/3/2025

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At least 4 Mantas sightings this week and so much more!

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​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier, MV Smiling Seahorse embarked on an unforgettable dive safari into the stunning Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar. After clearing Thai immigration, our enthusiastic guests from France’s Galathée Group joined us as we proceeded to Kawthoung for entry formalities into Myanmar. Once completed, we set course northwest to begin our adventure in this remote and pristine marine paradise.
 
Our playground this week!
The Mergui Archipelago is a secluded paradise, boasting over 800 islands with dramatic limestone cliffs, mangroves, white sandy beaches, and vibrant coral reefs. Home to an incredible diversity of marine life, from macro critters to pelagic giants, it remains one of the last frontiers for divers seeking untouched underwater landscapes and thrilling encounters with oceanic mantas, reef sharks, and rare fish species.
A Frogfish at Black Rock
Beautiful Juvenile Lined Wrasse in the Mergui Archipelago

Day 1: Exploring the First Dive Sites
Check Dive at High Rock

​Our adventure began with a check dive at High Rock, where we were immediately welcomed by schools of yellowtail barracuda and yellowback fusiliers. Among the reef, we spotted moray eels, nudibranchs, and a beautiful thornback boxfish, also known as the cowfish. The highlight of the dive was an elusive tiger tail seahorse and a well-camouflaged stonefish lurking among the corals.
Heathy and colourful reef from the Mergui Archipelago
Tiger Tail Seahorse at High Rock Mergui Archipelago
Dive 2 at Bawe (Rainbow Rock)
​A spectacular site showcasing an array of colorful soft corals in shades of yellow, blue, pink, white, and red. Marine life was abundant, with Durban dancing shrimps, a baby yellow boxfish, giant moray eels, crabs, and scorpionfish in both juvenile and adult stages. Among the highlights were chromodoris annulata, a ring angelfish, a yellow-edged moray eel, a school of circular batfish, and the fascinating blue dragon nudibranch.
Colorful Mc Cosker's flasher wrasse in the Mergui Archipelago
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Dive 3 at South Twin
This site offered a mesmerizing blend of macro life and schooling fish. Notable sightings included banded stick pipefish, chromodoris annulata, blue dragon nudibranchs, and a large school of epaulette surgeonfish. We also encountered a Maldivian sponge snail and an impressive array of reef fish, including peacock grouper, common lionfish, and twinstripe fusiliers.
Night Dive
As darkness fell, we encountered fascinating nocturnal creatures, including cleaning partner shrimps, scorpionfish, octopuses, decorated crabs, giant moray eels, blue and white flatworms, and more blue dragons.
Beautiful Harlequin Shrimp in the Mergui Archipelago
Harlequin and Durban Dancing Shrimps in the Mergui Archipelago

Day 2: A Day of Manta Encounters at Black Rock

​Black Rock delivered one of the most thrilling experiences of the trip, with at least three different oceanic manta rays gracing us with their presence. Schools of rainbow runners, yellowtail barracuda, pickhandle barracuda, and bigeye trevally swirled around us. We also spotted striped bristletooth surgeonfish, juvenile yellow band fusiliers, and several macro treasures such as red and white clown frogfish, a giant white frogfish, and an orange frogfish. A great barracuda receiving a spa treatment from cleaner wrasses was another highlight. Additional reef fish seen included bicolor cleaner wrasse, blue and gold fusiliers, and six striped soap fish.
Majestic Oceanic Manta Ray gliding above the reef at Black Rock Mergui Archipelago

Day 3: Diving Three Islets & Village Visit

​Square Rock
Featuring tigertail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, chromodoris nudibranchs, a school of yellowtail barracuda, purple flabellina, and a magnificent marble ray.
Shark Cave
This site amazed us with its massive school of juvenile blue and gold fusiliers, chromodoris annulata, a baby tiger tail seahorse, and an impressive array of reef fish, including blacktip grouper and oriental sweetlips.
Submarine
Encounters included a bamboo shark sleeping among the rocks, a stonefish, trevallies, rainbow runners, wahoo, a massive school of yellow snappers, and porcelain crabs.
Village Visit - Khun Pi Law
During snack time, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque village with a white sandy beach and a beautiful Buddha temple, offering a glimpse into the local culture before heading back for our night dive.
Night Dive at Shark Cave
Decorated crabs, white-eye moray eels, Durban dancing shrimps, baby slipper lobsters, basket star shrimps, blue and white flatworms, blue dragons, and tiny tigertail seahorses, including a very small baby one, made this dive truly magical.
Frogfish in the Mergui Archipelago
Banded stick pipe fish on sea star at The Mergui Archipelago

Day 4 & 5: Manta Encounters & Spectacular Reefs

Diving at Sea Fan Forest, Western Rocky, and Eagle’s Rock brought us a quick but breathtaking visit from a massive oceanic manta, harlequin shrimps, Mc Cosker’s dwarf wrasse, cuttlefish mating, and large schools of fusiliers.
Highlights at The Cave, The Islets, and Eagle’s Rock included schools of yellow-lined fusiliers, moray eels, crabs, yellowtail barracuda, five-line snapper, twin stripe fusiliers, chromodoris annulata with its eggs, Maldivian sponge snails, and fimbriate moray eels.
Day five's blackwater dive was a thrilling experience featuring larval octopuses, pelagic seahorses, mantis shrimps, flounders, veliger pelagic snails, triggerfish, squids, lizardfish, and krill. The night ended with a fantastic BBQ, celebrating the trip with our amazing French group.
Tiny cephalopod Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago
Larval stage of Flounders Blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago
Pelaic Seahorse drifting in the open ocean during Blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago
Close up of pelagic Seahorse Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago
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Cuttle fish Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago

Day 6: Final Dive at Dendro’s Pea

​Our final dive site, Dendro’s Peak, provided a fitting end to an extraordinary journey. We encountered Jenkins rays, schools of fusiliers, bigeye trevally, rabbitfish, and an incredible variety of reef fish, including yellowfin goatfish, halfmoon grouper, and mimic sabretooth blennies.
Healthy Soft Coral reef in the Mergui Archipelago
Conclusion 
The Mergui Archipelago never ceases to amaze with its diverse marine life, stunning reefs, and pelagic action. With oceanic mantas, frogfish, seahorses, and a vast array of macro critters, this trip was truly unforgettable. We can’t wait to return for another adventure in these incredible waters!
Happy clients onboard
Manta sighting in the Mergui Archipelago
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    The Smiling Seahorse Diving Blog

    A blog about our diving adventures in Burma and Thailand. Diving trip reports, guest reviews, fishy stories, wildlife fun facts and much more...
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    ​The Smiling Seahorse has been running dive cruises from Ranong since 2012.
    Our team of instructors are reporting with a short blogpost after every trip.
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    - About Myanmar liveaboards
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The Smiling Seahorse

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170 Ruangrat Rd, Tambon khao nivet, Mueang Ranong District, Ranong 85000​
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