​Our last trip of November began beautifully at Tap Lamu Pier, where we welcomed a lovely international group from the USA, Australia, Canada, and China. Smiles, excitement, and dive bags loaded — we set sail toward the legendary Similan National Park, ready for a week of granite giants, lush reefs, and pelagic encounters.

Dive 3 — Koh Tachai Pinnacle
Action-packed as always.
We were greeted by giant marble groupers, clouds of bluefin trevallies, powerful godtooth tunas (the local spelling fun continues!), and a tornado of barracudas.
Schools of yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers, and bluelined snappers danced over the rocks.
Hidden between coral blocks we found lobsters, giant morays, batfish, diamond-shaped unicornfish, bigeye emperors, curious goatfish, and plenty of colorful angelfish, butterflyfish, wrasses, parrotfish, and surgeonfish.

Dive 4 — Tachai Reef or Blackwater
Tachai Reef offered a peaceful end to the day with checkered snappers, shy octopus, bridled monocle bream, Indo-Pacific sergeant, morrish idol, powder-blue surgeonfish, striped surgeonfish, Indian sailfin tang, golden rabbitfish, and a thrilling moment with two blacktip reef sharks hunting fusiliers in the shallows.

The reef was buzzing:
Octopus, elegant harlequin shrimps, a beautiful black-and-yellow ribbon eel, Chromodoris risbecia pulchella, blue dragons, and bright purple flabellinas.
Pelagic visitors included cobias, pickhandle barracudas, yellowtail barracudas, and « the gang » — the longnose emperors teaming up with rainbow runners and several species of trevallies (bluefin, giant, bigeye, golden…).
A courtship of golden trevallies was the highlight of the afternoon.
The clouds of life around the rock were incredible: yellowback fusiliers, two-spot snappers, twinstripe fusiliers, longfin snappers, and more — everything swirling through the soft coral fingers.
The night dive revealed hunting morays, crabs on the move, sleeping parrotfish, and surreal colors in the torch beams.

Four more dives full of action: endless trevallies, rainbow runners, fusilier storms, lovingly posing harlequin shrimps, macro critters hiding in soft corals, and the iconic purple landscape of Richelieu glowing in the morning sun.

​Our new diving season began with a wonderfully international group joining us at Chok Thaeworn Pier in Phuket. Divers arrived from Switzerland, France, Holland, Belgium, Taiwan, Australia, Saudi Arabia, and Canada — including our special guest and paparazza Katie, already armed with her camera. With everyone settled in aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, we started our southbound journey toward the crystalline waters of the Koh Lanta National Park and the remote pinnacle of Hin Muang.

​Koh Lanta National Park — turquoise lagoons & dramatic limestone formations

Koh Lanta National Park is known for its sheltered lagoons, underwater caverns, and vibrant coral slopes, making it a perfect starting point for our first dives of the season. Our check dive at Koh Haa set the tone, with chromodoris annulata and chromodoris kuniei decorating the reef like tiny jewels. Coral groupers hovered above bommies as juvenile angelfish and juvenile clown triggerfish darted around. Schools of yellowback fusiliers moved in waves alongside snappers and mackerels, while golden trevallies flashed past in hunting formation. A great barracuda cruised by, and a yellow-margin triggerfish paused at a cleaning station surrounded by busy wrasses and partner shrimps. Dusky damselfish, flutemouths and curious butterflyfish added movement and colour to the scene.

We continued south to Hin Muang for a spectacular wide-blue dive blessed with excellent visibility. Schools of batfish followed us down the wall where giant, bluefin and white-tongue trevallies patrolled the deep. Longnose emperors glided over purple-red soft corals, yellow boxfish played hide-and-seek around ledges, and a fimbriated moray eel peeked out from a crack. Rainbow runners flickered past like silver missiles while dogtooth tunas circled in the blue. A wandering octopus inspected our group before disappearing into the reef, and a white bent-stick pipefish blended perfectly with the soft coral background. Wrasses, anthias and red-toothed triggerfish filled every corner of the reef.
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Our final dives of the day took place at Koh Rok Ridge, where porcupinefish of every pattern — false-eye, blue-spotted, black-spotted and fine-spotted — hovered curiously. Blue-legged boxer shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps were busy in the crevices of the giant barrel sponges, one of which hid a massive giant moray eel. Yellowback fusiliers, yellow-lined snappers and giant trevallies passed in numbers, while anemonefish guarded their shimmering homes and hawkfish perched proudly on coral heads.

The night dive revealed an entirely different world. Giant hermit crabs marched across the sand, cleaning shrimps wiggled within the shadows of barrel sponges and delicate flabellinas crawled over the reef. Big red crabs explored the rocks, bubble corals sheltered tiny squat shrimps, parrotfish slept in their mucus cocoons and several triggerfish wedged themselves safely into cracks. A scribbled filefish drifted slowly through the torch beams while cardinalfish and soldierfish hovered along the walls.

We began again at Koh Haa Yai, the famous “Cathedral,” where the large caverns glowed with natural light. Cleaner pipefish hovered above sandy patches, yellow boxfish zig-zagged between boulders, and golden trevallies cruised through shoals of rabbitfish. Hermit crabs roamed along the rocky edges, tiger cowries shimmered on the walls, and Moorish idols danced gracefully in pairs. Surgeonfish, fairy wrasses and angelfish of all sizes added movement around the cathedral arches while another yellow-margin triggerfish watched us pass with suspicion.

Koh Haa Lagoon offered calm, crystal-clear water between islands 2 and 4. A giant moray eel and a yellow-edge moray eel shared the same patch of reef while Durban dancing shrimps and partner shrimps worked tirelessly at cleaning stations. Garden eels swayed like tall grass on the sandy bottom, convict blennies formed tight black-and-white tornadoes, and a red-marbled lizardfish watched for prey. Bearded scorpionfish lay perfectly still, and yellowfin soldiers hovered above the rocks. Two dogtooth tunas patrolled the perimeter while giant trevallies and juvenile emperor angelfish added flashes of yellow and blue. Wrasses, anthias, parrotfish and goatfish swirled across the lagoon.

At Koh Haa Chimney, we descended through the famous vertical tunnel before circling the large boulders outside. Yellow-lined snappers formed dense clouds, neon fusiliers streaked through the blue, and giant trevallies and dogtooth tunas swept along the deeper edges. A giant coral grouper patrolled the sandy bottom, and a proud peacock mantis shrimp marched boldly along the wall. Inside the entrance cave, nudibranchs glossodoris cincta and bornella anguilla decorated the rock while a graceful young banded sea snake hunted in the shallow 3-meter water as we finished the dive.
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Our sunset dive at Koh Haa Yai Reef was magical, with schools of Moorish idols, lined surgeonfish and copperband butterflyfish gliding above healthy hard corals and vibrant sea fans. Branching acropora, mushroom corals and large plate corals created perfect backdrops as the day slowly shifted into dusk.

A protected archipelago known for limestone cliffs, caverns & rich megafauna

Phi Phi National Park welcomed us with its dramatic limestone peaks and nutrient-rich waters.
Our first dive at Koh Bida Nok delivered an abundance of life. We found four tigertail seahorses clinging to sea fans, two banded sea snakes exploring crevices and a massive lobster hiding under a ledge. A beautifully patterned Dermatobranchus ornatus nudibranch crawled across a rock. Blacktip reef sharks glided by, and a resting leopard shark offered a serene moment. Schools of yellow-lined snappers and juvenile silver batfish danced in loose formation.

At Anemone Reef, the pinnacle was fully carpeted with blue, green and pink anemones swaying with the current, home to colourful anemonefish and porcelain crabs. Cometfish hovered above the reef while squids moved in formation. Yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers and yellow-lined snappers circled continuously while a fimbriated moray eel shared a crack with two white-eye morays. A yellow-edge moray eel and a copperband butterflyfish completed the scene.

Shark Point offered yet another highlight with gigantic pickhandle barracudas at a cleaning station, schools of blacktail barracudas, and a pair of pharaoh cuttlefish mating in the shallows. Large barrel sponges and elegant sea fans decorated the ridge. Fimbriated, white-eye and giant moray eels appeared one after another, while copperband butterflyfish played among the soft corals. Wrasses, anthias, damselfish and soft-coral gobies filled every corner of the reef.
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We then began our long navigation north — about 15 hours — following the coastline of Phuket and the Phang Nga region toward the Similan Islands.

Nine granitic islands with some of Thailand’s healthiest reefs

After a smooth 12-hour crossing, the iconic boulder landscapes of the Similans appeared on the horizon.
Our first dive at East of Princess Bay (Island 4) took us through Stonehenge, where large slabs of granite formed passageways filled with octopus, giant trevallies and juvenile oriental sweetlips. Lined surgeonfish moved calmly across the reef while peacock mantis shrimps patrolled the sand. Butterflyfish, angelfish, fairy wrasses and juvenile wrasses added colour at every turn.

West of Eden was spectacular with an ovula ovum cowrie mating on a coral head, schools of pennant coralfish weaving between boulders, and both yellowface and bluering angelfish showing off their vibrant colours. African coris and pastel ring-wrasse danced over the hard corals while a white-tip reef shark cruised by, followed closely by five imposing giant trevallies. Blue dragons decorated the coral blocks and a clown triggerfish impressed our divers. Gobies, chromis and small anthias flickered in the light.

At Hideaway, honeycomb groupers, peacock hinds, coral groupers and longface emperors dotted the reef, joined by oriental sweetlips and a mixed school of bluestreak and dory snappers. Durban dancing shrimps cleaned patiently below, while schools of juvenile blackfin barracudas and young bluefin trevallies hunted together with yellow-saddle goatfish.
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The night dive at West of Eden revealed sleeping parrotfish, squirrelfish, soldierfish, hunting morays, long-legged spiny lobsters, glossy nudibranchs and massive moon groupers patrolling the shadows. Cardinalfish, sweepers and nocturnal wrasses reflected the torchlight.

Honeymoon Bay (Island 4) greeted us with two octopuses mating in the sand channel. Dogtooth tunas circled the reef while cometfish, Durban dancing shrimps and partner shrimps explored the coral heads. A school of black-tail damselfish illuminated the water column, and a bright Halgerda tessellata nudibranch was the star of the macro search.

Back at West of Eden, we encountered another dogtooth tuna, a large green turtle and a small hawksbill turtle. Three more octopuses were spotted, including another mating pair. Leopard blennies peeked from holes while black-veined, dusky and two-coloured parrotfish grazed among the corals. Three-spot angelfish, hermit crabs and banded pipefish added to the action.

Elephant Head Rock delivered its signature swim-throughs, where giant trevallies roamed alongside giant yellow boxfish, porcupinefish, unicorn sweetlips, Andaman sweetlips, six-banded angelfish, rabbitfish, spotted boxfish and map puffers.
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Our sunset dive at Turtle Rock (Island 8) featured brassy drummers, more giant yellow boxfish, black surgeonfish, blackear wrasse, spotted-tail dart gobies, porcelain crabs, marble groupers, coral groupers, tiger cowries and a parade of parrotfish grazing the reef. A pygmy squid darted in and out of view, and an octopus displayed brilliant colors as it hunted among the rocks.

Eagle’s Rock surprised us with beautiful coral bommies and granite formations sheltering giant morays, bluefin trevallies, dogtooth tunas and sail-finned surgeonfish. A tiny juvenile rockmover wrasse danced hypnotically across the sand.

At Donald Duck Bay, we explored the iconic boulders and giant barrel sponges where peacock mantis shrimps peeked out from holes. Dogtooth tunas, bluefin trevallies, giant morays, clownfish, blue dragons, sail-finned surgeons, sea fans, puffers, hawkfish, cometfish and oriental sweetlips kept us entertained. A tiny teardrop butterflyfish juvenile danced near the surface.

Back to Elephant Head Rock for our third dive of the day, we crossed paths with a white-tip reef shark, slender groupers, lizardfish, coral groupers, giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies and huge schools of neon fusiliers lighting up the blue.
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Our blackwater dive was a festival of planktonic life — larval mantis shrimps, long chains of siphonophores, crab larvae, salps carrying tiny fish companions, squids, larval anemones, larval triggerfish, eel larvae, drifting jellyfish and countless shrimp and spreadfish. Even a tiny larval lizardfish appeared under our lights.

Our last morning at Honeymoon Bay was peaceful with a gentle zebra shark resting on the sand. Parrotfish, rabbitfish, wrasses and schools of fusiliers glided calmly above the reef while gobies, blennies and butterflyfish added colour to the shallows.
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Boonsung Wreck, as always, was a fish soup of the highest order. Clouds of juvenile yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers and blue-striped snappers filled every corner while juvenile silver batfish shimmered around the structure. Porcupinefish floated in groups like balloons, honeycomb and white-eye moray eels peeked from the metal plates, pompano hunted through the clouds of fish and big-eye trevallies zig-zagged through the chaos. Chromodoris kuniei and bright Halgerda nudibranchs crawled along the beams as damsels, wrasses and parrotfish weaved through the dense schools.

We surfaced from our final dive tired, happy and already eager for the next adventure, ending our trip at Tap Lamu Pier with big smiles all around.

​The MV Smiling Seahorse officially launched the new diving season with a second unforgettable adventure across Myanmar’s remote waters — from the mysterious limestone islands of the Mergui Archipelago to the vast, sandy plateaus of the Burma Banks.
Our second group of the season — joining us from France — gathered at the pier in Ranong with bright smiles and even brighter expectations. After completing the immigration formalities and crossing into Myanmar via Kawthung, passports were stamped, bags stowed, and spirits high as we set course into the wild blue.

​Our check dive at High Rock revealed the season’s first treasures: tigertail seahorse, pickhandle barracudas, swirling fusiliers and jacks, peacock mantis shrimps, white-eyed moray eels, Spanish mackerel, and even a curious rainbow runner. Thornback boxfish, pharaoh cuttlefish, and orange-spotted pipefish rounded off the dive — an explosion of colour to start the trip.
The following dives took us to the magical Three Islets:

• Dive 2 – “The Square & Shark Cave”:  tigertail seahorses, cuttlefish, blue dragons, Durban dancing shrimps, porcelain crabs (one of them carrying eggs!) , zebra and banded snake eels, and playful cleaner pipefish.
• Dive 3 – “Submarine & Shark Cave”: the tunnels echoed with life — yellowtail barracudas, golden trevallies, a gliding eagle ray, tomato anemonefish, tigertail seahorse, a stonefish, a bamboo shark, and several moray eels.

Our night dive at Shark Cave & Square was pure magic — nine tigertail seahorses, including some mating! Add to that toadfish, cone snails on the move, sleeping parrotfish, soldierfish, and crustaceans galore — a proper nocturnal parade.
That night, the Smiling Seahorse pointed her bow north toward the legendary Black Rock.

​Four dives in total, each more electric than the last. One lucky group spotted a manta ray early in the day, while others drifted among eagle rays, cobias, tunas, yellowtail barracudas, and dense schools of bigeye trevallies.
Amid the action, we admired white devil scorpionfish, octopus, peacock mantis shrimps, lionfish, and patches of vibrant soft corals home to butterflyfish and wrasses.
A sunset dive sealed the day — schools of sergeant fish guarding their eggs, bannerfish, snappers, and reef octopus emerging as the light faded.

​North Twin Pinnacle: barracudas, fusiliers, red snappers, and a few dogtooth tunas gliding in the blue.
At North Twin Reef, we crossed paths with broadclub cuttlefish, banded sea snakes, giant morays, mantis shrimps, and vibrant corals where angelfish, triggerfish, and surgeonfish danced in the current.
At South Twin Reef, two dives revealed Maldivian sponge snails, marbled groupers, schools of surgeonfish, pyjama surgeonfish, juvenile sweetlips, a fleeting whitetip reef shark, blue ribbon eels, and another elegant wahoo cruising by.
As the sun dipped, we turned our compass westward toward the open ocean — and the mythical Burma Banks.

​The Roe Bank welcomed us with two nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a graceful mangrove whipray, and dogtooth tunas patrolling the edges.
At Coral Bank, the spectacle continued: more nurse sharks, a marble ray, honeycomb moray eels, and a bustling coral city alive with emperor and royal angelfish, neon fusiliers, powder-blue sergeants, velvet surgeonfish, clown triggerfish, trevallies, and Napoleon wrasses.
Even the safety stops were lively — schools of jacks and snappers swirling in golden light.

​The two morning dives at Rainbow Bank were a perfect blend of serenity and adrenaline. Marble rays, nurse sharks snoozing under bommies, clouds of fusiliers, surgeonfish, tunas, great barracudas, royal angelfish, giant sweetlips, potato groupers, and grey reef sharks filled the blue.
A third dive at Silvertip Bank offered encounters with Napoleon wrasses, grey reef sharks, and another nurse shark gliding past gracefully.
One group opted for a sunset dive among vibrant reef life — bannerfish, butterflyfish, wrasses, and anthias painting the scene — while the rest of the guests embarked on a surreal blackwater dive, drifting with larval anemonefish, eel larvae, stargazers, pyrosomes, siphonophores, venus girdles, and glowing comb jellies under the stars.

​At Sea Fan Forest, enormous gorgonians lined the reef like underwater cathedrals. Neon fusiliers, trevallies, glassfish, pickhandle barracudas, and curious mantis shrimps mingled with stonefish, anemone crabs, and longnose hawkfish.
At Western Rocky, the current brought white-tongue trevallies, yellowfin barracudas, and marble shrimps out to play.
Our night dive at Western Rocky was a treasure hunt — sleeping trevallies, massive sponge crabs, feather star squat lobsters, giant morays, tiny shrimps on whip coral, coral cowries, phenacovolva snails, and even a sea butterfly fluttering through the torchlight.

We enjoyed a delicious barbecue dinner that night, featuring spare ribs, hand-cut French fries, tomates à la provençale, a fresh salad assortment, grilled chicken wings and sausages, along with potatoes en robe des champs served with a rich garlic butter.

​Back at Sea Fan Forest, we spotted lionfish, devil scorpionfish, a fimbriated moray sharing its crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
Our final dives at Eagle Rock, The Cave, and The Islets revealed pickhandle barracudas, longnose emperors, dogtooth tunas, boxfish, porcupinefish, nudibranchs like Chromodoris reticulata and Glossodoris cincta, harlequin shrimps, leopard morays, rainbow runners, and Napoleon wrasses.

​Our final dive brought a fitting finale: schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, a majestic great barracuda, banded sea snake, and one last fimbriated moray waving us goodbye.
With our tanks empty but our hearts full, we headed back to Kawthaung for our traditional Burmese beers, immigration clearance, and the sail back to Ranong.
The second expedition of the season was everything we’d hoped for — thrilling dives, wonderful guests, and the timeless magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks. A big thank you to our wonderful guests for illustrating this blogpost with their photos!
Until next time — see you underwater aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse!

​The MV Smiling Seahorse kicked off the new diving season with a spectacular journey through the remote waters of Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago and the legendary Burma Banks. Departing from Ranong, our first group of adventurers — joining us from France, Switzerland, Belgium, Ireland, the US, and the UK — gathered with excitement at the pier.
After check-in, we completed the usual immigration formalities in Ranong before crossing the border to Kawthung, Myanmar. With passports stamped and smiles all around, we set course toward the mysterious Mergui Archipelago — a place of dramatic limestone and granit boulder islands, lush jungle cliffs, and some of the most vibrant underwater life in the Andaman Sea.

​Our check dive at High Rock was the perfect start, offering calm conditions and an easy descent into a thriving coral reef. Among the swaying soft corals, we spotted oriental sweetlips, butterflyfish, blue damsels, and curious bannerfish darting between the rocks — a beautiful welcome back to Burmese waters.
Our second dive took us to Three Islets (Square), alive with action! Schools of fusiliers and white tongue jacks swirled above the reef, while a tigertail seahorse and an orange-spotted pipefish delighted our macro enthusiasts. Blue-lined snappers, Moorish idols, and a few playful anemonefish added even more colour to the scene.
Dive three at Three Islets (Shark Cave) brought strong surges, so we explored around the island instead of entering the cave. The current carried schools of pickhandle barracudas past walls of soft corals where tomato anemonefish guarded their homes.
For the night dive, we returned to Shark Cave. Under torchlight, we found barracudas cruising the dark, parrotfish sleeping soundly in their mucus bubbles, a seal-face pufferfish tucked into a crack, and a curious pharaoh cuttlefish. We also encountered soldierfish, cardinalfish, and a few colourful wrasses hunting under the beams of our lights.
That night, we set sail toward the famous Black Rock.

​At sunrise, we descended on Black Rock’s north side, greeted by schools of bigeye jacks, barracudas, lionfish, and snapper clouds drifting in the blue.
Our second dive on the south side was pure magic — mantas! Not one, but four graceful oceanic manta rays soared through the current, looping and gliding as dogtooth tunas patrolled below.
The third and fourth dives kept the action going, with dense schools of jacks, fusiliers, and surgeonfish swirling through the water column. A leopard moray eel peeked from a crevice during the sunset dive, a perfect finale to a spectacular day.

​North Twin Pinnacle — the current-fed site teeming with barracudas, fusiliers, and red snappers. We admired tiger  egg cowries, moray eels, and a few curious dogtooth tunas cruising by.
At North Twin Reef, we met a banded sea snake weaving through coral bommies, an octopus changing colours before our eyes, and a squad of batfish gliding gracefully in the blue. Mantis shrimps and lobsters completed the day’s macro highlights.
After our final dive, the Smiling Seahorse set course westward for the Burma Banks — a legendary chain of submerged plateaus rising from the depths of the Andaman Sea, located about 180 km offshore. These vast, remote reefs are known for their big pelagic life and pristine coral formations.

​Our first dives at Roe Bank revealed a world of giants — several nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a mangrove whipray, and schooling black surgeonfish weaving around coral heads. Dogtooth tunas patrolled the outer slopes, keeping smaller reef fish in constant motion.
At Rainbow Bank, the spectacle continued — nurse sharks again, a stunning marble ray, three honeycomb moray eels, and a vibrant reef alive with emperor angelfish, surgeonfish, batfish, and butterflyfish. A Maldives sponge snail was spotted nestled among the corals — a treat for our keen-eyed photographers.

​The morning dives at Coral Bank lived up to its name — hard corals in excellent condition, surrounded by nurse sharks, whitetip reef sharks, and a flurry of wrasses, triggerfish, and parrotfish.
At Silvertip Banks, the energy was palpable. Grey reef sharks patrolled the plateau, nurse sharks lounged near coral heads, and a swimming zebra shark passed by trough clouds of anthias, surgeonfish, and bannerfish shimmered in the current.

​Back among the islands, we explored Sea Fan Forest, where enormous gorgonian fans hosted ghost pipefish and schools of fusiliers and trevallies.
At Western Rocky Eagle Rock, large schools of white tongue trevallies and yellowfin barracudas filled the blue, while marble shrimps hid in the cracks.
Our sunset dive in Western Rocky Cave brought us face to face with two Glossodoris nudibranch protecting its eggs, curious cuttlefish, and colourful reef fish preparing for nightfall.

​We returned to Sea Fan Forest in the morning, spotting lionfish, devil scorpionfish, and a stunning fimbriated moray eel sharing a crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
At Western Rocky Cave, a beautiful Chromodoris nudibranch added a pop of colour, while the final dives at Eagle Rock delivered dramatic cuttlefish mating and fighting scenes, plus a rare Pikachu nudibranch — the perfect finale for our photographers!

Our last dive at Dendro’s Peak brought one more burst of colour — schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, and even a curious yellow boxfish to send us off.
With the dives complete, we headed back toward Kawthung for our traditional Burmese beers and final immigration clearance before returning to Ranong. The first trip of the season set the tone perfectly — thrilling dives, great company, and the magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks welcoming us back once again.
See you underwater on our next adventure with MV Smiling Seahorse!

​In between the drama, macro life was thriving: the smallest harlequin shrimp we’ve ever seen balanced on a sea star, tiger tail seahorses swayed with the current, and ghost pipefish hovered delicately in their shadows. Moray eels—fimbriated, honeycomb, and giant—peered out from coral alcoves. We found butterflyfish, damsels guarding eggs, and even an elusive mimic blenny poking from the rubble.
These last dives were the perfect conclusion to our season—a celebration of life, color, and the unmatched magic of the Andaman Sea.
As we returned to Ranong, the sun dipped behind the mangroves and the MV Smiling Seahorse entered her summer rest. But in our minds, the ocean is still alive with swirling fish, curious sharks, and coral gardens dancing in the current.
Until next season, happy bubbles from all of us aboard!​

Exploring Thailand’s Underwater National Treasures
As the sun rose over Ranong, we welcomed an enthusiastic group of divers from the USA, France, Brasil, and Switzerland aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Our journey would take us through some of Thailand’s most iconic national parks—from Surin and Similan to Lanta and Tarutao—each with its own unique seascape and underwater wonders. Spirits were high as we set a course for the famed Surin Islands to begin our underwater adventure. All pictures on this blogpost were taken by our distinguished guests.

Three Trees delivered calm water and stunning white sand patches covered in garden eels. A porcupine stingray and blue-spotted ray swept by, while above us schools of fusiliers and snappers moved in synchronized waves. Curious trumpetfish hovered and gobies danced along the sandy slopes.
Elephant Head Rock was majestic as always. We drifted through its cavernous swim-throughs, surrounded by walls adorned with giant sea fans and hunting giant moray eels. A white-tip shark slipped by, and above us an eagle ray soared across the sunbeams. We caught sight of a mature yellow boxfish before it tucked into a crevice, while blue-lined groupers and bannerfish hovered near the edges of the boulders.

The sunset dive was full of movement and macro life. Helmet crabs and decorator crabs scuttled across the reef while zebra moray eels and common morays hunted along the slopes. Nudibranchs—chromodoris fidelis, annulata, risbecia, and geminus—dotted the rocks like confetti, with bornella anguilla curling through the soft corals.

At Koh Taru, baby yellow fusiliers filled the reef, flashing like lightning. A baby yellow boxfish stole hearts with its wobbling swim, while a large star puffer looked on with sleepy eyes. Indian Ocean walkman scorpionfish and banded pipefish made rare appearances to round off the day.

​Our journey began in Ranong, where our international guests—this time hailing from France, Austria, and the Philippines—stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, their eyes alight with excitement. After clearing Thai immigration, we crossed the border into Kawthoung, Myanmar, where the rhythmic stamping of passports signaled the official start of our voyage into one of the last untouched marine frontiers: the breathtaking Mergui Archipelago. It was a pleasure welcoming back some good friends and creating new friendships this week.

The ocean greeted us gently at High Rock, our check dive site, where the clear waters hinted at the wonders lying beneath the surface. Silver ribbons of yellowtail barracudas spiraled gracefully around us, mingling with yellowback fusiliers weaving effortlessly through the current. A shy moray eel peeked out from its crevice, while a solitary thornback boxfish hovered calmly nearby. Hidden among the branches of a gorgonian fan, a tiger tail seahorse played a game of underwater hide-and-seek. Vibrant nudibranchs—tiny explosions of color—adorned the reef like living confetti, as schools of butterflyfish flitted past, as curious about us as we were about them.

At Three Islets, the magic only deepened. Shark Cave pulsed with life: a proud adult yellow tiger tail seahorse clung steadfastly to a coral branch, while banded stick pipefish slithered gracefully through the rubble below. Along the rocky surfaces, Chromodoris and Flabellina nudibranchs performed their delicate, colorful dance. Above, fusiliers—blue-lined, yellow-lined, and every shade in between—formed a shimmering curtain that rippled across the reef. A sleek wahoo darted through the school like a silver arrow, while angelfish and parrotfish painted the scene with bold strokes of tropical color.

At Square, the underwater action showed no sign of slowing. Yellowstripe trevallies and longnose emperors darted through shimmering clouds of glassfish, while brassy and golden trevallies cruised along the reef’s edge like vigilant sentinels. Amid the commotion, tiger tail seahorses clung calmly to coral branches, unbothered by the lively currents. Butterflyfish and wrasses wove through the midwater, adding intricate layers to the reef’s silent symphony.

At Submarine, gentle currents allowed us to drift effortlessly alongside schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and golden dash fusiliers. A marble ray glided like a shadow over the sandy bottom, barely disturbing the drowsy goatfish resting below. Nearby, damselfish fiercely guarded their nests, while a curious trumpetfish trailed us, blending amusingly with our dive gear.

After a surface interval filled with laughter and fresh fruit, we stepped ashore at the quaint village of Khun Pi Lar. Its white-sand beach and serene Buddha temple offered a peaceful contrast to the vibrant underwater world.

As night fell, we returned to Shark Cave, now transformed into a nocturnal wonderland. Sweetlips slumbered beneath ledges, decorator crabs scuttled by in bizarre camouflage, and a ghost pipefish twirled in our torchlight. A Chromodoris geminus glowed like a living jewel, illuminating the darkness with its fluorescent brilliance.

We began the next day with Roe Bank, where nurse sharks rested languidly on the sandy bottom, surrounded by shimmering schools of silver sweetlips. Nearby, a marlin breached near the boat—an electrifying moment of pure ocean magic. The fish schools were immense: scissortail fusiliers, yellowback fusiliers, and black-and-white snappers surged like living tides. Giant sweetlips and redfin butterflyfish hovered near coral heads, accompanied by inquisitive triggerfish and a vibrant assortment of wrasses.

At Rainbow Bank, our third dive brought us face-to-face with a swirling vortex of bigeye trevallies—a mesmerizing underwater tornado. Nurse sharks cruised by silently, while a mangrove whipray materialized from the gloom like a gliding UFO. Amid the bustle of sweetlips and giant snappers, we spotted elegant pairs of bannerfish fluttering gracefully, and clouds of anthias painted the coral outcrops in vivid orange hues.

Our sunset dive was nothing short of exhilarating. One group encountered a bold and curious bull shark, while nurse sharks hovered in the twilight shadows. Honeycomb moray eels slithered between coral heads, and territorial triggerfish patrolled the sandy slopes, fiercely guarding their nests. Pufferfish drifted by slowly, like whimsical balloons suspended in the deep.

Meanwhile, others descended into the inky blackness for a blackwater dive—a surreal journey into the unknown. From the depths rose tiny post-larval creatures: flounders, squid, even a sea elephant, their translucent forms glowing under our lights like alien visitors in a dreamlike ballet from the abyss.

The next morning, Roe Bank welcomed us once more. It was so good, it was worth coming back! Dogtooth tuna sliced through vast shoals of fusiliers, their speed a blur against the swirling backdrop. Marble rays lay half-buried in the sand, only to lift off with a graceful flap, vanishing into the blue. We wound our way around boulders teeming with surgeonfish, while massive potato groupers watched from the shadows, still and imposing.

At Coral Bank, the excitement continued. Nurse sharks cruised alongside us, and another bull shark made a brief but thrilling appearance. Towering schools of yellow dot fusiliers and surgeonfish filled the water column, while rainbow runners shot through them like silver missiles. Below, groupers, triggerfish, and curious blennies darted among the coral rubble, each corner revealing new life.

Silvertip Bank brought our adventure to a spectacular finale. Nurse sharks patrolled in lazy circles, marble rays soared effortlessly overhead, and a majestic Napoleon wrasse glided past with quiet authority. Curtains of fusiliers shimmered like underwater rainbows, momentarily parting to reveal damselfish, groupers, and sergeant majors weaving through the colorful chaos.

We returned to Seafan Forest under crystal-clear conditions, the visibility offering a perfect window into the reef’s vibrant life. Fusiliers flowed like living rivers across the coral landscape, pursued by sleek great barracudas and darting rainbow runners. A pharaoh cuttlefish shimmered with ever-changing colors as it glided by, while a stonefish lay perfectly still, masterfully disguised among the reef. A proud tiger tail seahorse clung delicately to a sea fan, and nearby, a devil scorpionfish nestled between sponge and coral, its spiny silhouette barely detectable.

The adventure continued at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky Cave. Schools of batfish drifted gracefully overhead, five-line snappers pulsed across the reef in synchronized bursts, and twinstripe fusiliers streamed past like underwater arrows.
Chromodoris nudibranchs were abundant, their vibrant bodies accompanied by delicate, ribbon-like spirals of freshly laid eggs. Sponge snails peeked from their porous homes, while giant moray eels and fimbriated eels slinked through the crevices. A bright red frogfish, bold and still, posed patiently for photos—one nestled beneath the arch, the other tucked against the rocky wall like a secret waiting to be discovered.

We returned once more to Seafan Forest, and the magic continued. Nudibranchs spiraled their ribbon-like eggs onto the reef, stonefish vanished into their surroundings with expert camouflage, and schools of yellowback fusiliers pulsed rhythmically over coral heads like golden currents. Back at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky, we were delighted to find our familiar pair of giant frogfish—still motionless, still mesmerizing—surrounded by a kaleidoscope of reef life. Damselfish fiercely guarded their patches of eggs, while curious puffers hovered nearby, inspecting our bubbles with wide-eyed fascination.

Our final dive brought us to Dendro’s Pinnacle—and what a farewell it was. Visibility stretched endlessly as we drifted through clouds of five-line snappers and golden trevally. Yellowtail barracudas shimmered like blades in the distance.
​We were treated to the sight of not one, but two dazzling Chromodoris species--annulata and reticulata—while a graceful orange-spotted pipefish waved a quiet goodbye from the coral.