This expedition through the Andaman Sea unfolded as a gradual exploration of both landscapes and marine life, shaped by shifting currents, encounters, and the quiet surprises hidden along the reefs. While we don't have photos for every sightings, we had some really special encounters!!! The highlight was probably a snaggletooth shark and Bowmouth guitarfish two very rare of the many sharks and rays seen this week!!! 
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From the dramatic limestone formations of the South Andaman to the exposed pinnacles of the North, each dive revealed a new layer of biodiversity. From the sheltered bays of Koh Phi Phi and Koh Lanta to the dynamic sites of the Similan and Surin National Parks, the week developed into a seamless blend of colourful reefs, schooling fish, and intricate macro life.

We departed from Ranong, welcoming our international group of guests from Italy, France, the UK and the US, and set course for a Marine biology expedition with a Whale Shark Specialist, Mony to learn more about the biggest fish in the seas!

While the ocean chose not to reveal them this time, the experience took on a different depth. Throughout the week, Rinda, also known as Mony, from the Thailand Whale shark project, delivered daily presentations exploring whale shark biology, behaviour, and conservation challenges in Thailand.
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These sessions brought a meaningful layer to the expedition, connecting each dive to a broader ecological perspective — linking what we observed underwater to the larger story of marine life in the Andaman Sea. From North to South Andaman, the journey unfolded as a rich exploration of pelagic encounters, vibrant reefs, and intricate macro life — shaped as much by discovery as by understanding.

​Our check dive in the Surin Islands at Koh Chi offered a gentle but vibrant start. Garden eels swayed over sandy patches while Halgerda tesselata, blue dragon and scorpionfish blended into the reef. Coral groupers hovered near bommies alongside Clark’s anemonefish and false anemonefish, while schools of yellowback fusiliers and neon fusiliers moved through the water column. Around them, Moorish idols, copperband butterflyfish, blue-barred parrotfish and bullethead parrotfish completed the reef scene.
Macro life was already hinting at what was to come — a richness that would only intensify as the expedition progressed.

At Richelieu Rock, visibility was excellent and the site delivered immediately. The gang — giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, bigeye trevallies, longnose emperors and rainbow runners — hunted through dense clouds of glassfish. Barracudas patrolled the edges while batfish hovered calmly mid-water.

​Closer to the reef, harlequin shrimps, thorny seahorse, cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish added intricate detail. Tomato anemonefish, white-eye moray eels, giant moray eels and zebra moray eels occupied every crack, while octopus shifted colours between rocks. Headshield slugs, reticulated sapsucking slugs, ornate sapsucking slugs and Moyer’s dragonet were all present, alongside schools of five-lined snappers, twinstripe fusiliers and lunar fusiliers.

​The night dive revealed blunt decorated spider crabs, orange-spotted pipefish, boxer banded shrimps, Durban dancing shrimps, cleaner shrimps and pencil sea urchins. Ridged egg cowries and sixline soapfish appeared, while sleeping parrotfish, triggerfish locked into the reef and hunting moray eels completed the nocturnal scene.

​Koh Tachai delivered strong currents and action-packed dives. Blacktip reef sharks cruised the reef, a hawksbill turtle passed by, and large schools of barracudas, dogtooth tuna and Spanish mackerel moved through the blue. African pompano, adult black and white snappers, lobsters and glassfish filled every level of the dive.

During the navigation to Koh Bon, dolphins came to greet the boat, riding the bow wave and adding a rare surface interval moment that stayed with everyone on board.

At Koh Bon Pinnacle, one group encountered a large shark in the deep, most likely a bull shark, while the pinnacle itself pulsed with schools of yellowback fusiliers and neon fusiliers. Coral groupers, peacock groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish and Indian sailfin tang added structure and colour to the reef.
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On the North Ridge and West Ridge, reef life remained dense and dynamic, with anemone crabs, dogtooth tuna, rainbow runners and mackerels hunting through thick schools of glassfish, while wrasses, blennies and damsels filled every available space.

​The blackwater dive introduced squids, salps sheltering small fish and pyrosomes drifting through the dark.

​At North Point, a Napoleon wrasse cruised past while squat shrimps, mantis shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps animated the reef. Anemone crabs, Clark’s anemonefish, moray eels and topsail drummers were joined by blueface angelfish, regal angelfish, butterflyfish and schools of fusiliers.

​We then stopped at Island #8, also known as Donald Duck Bay, where white sand and granite boulders offered a striking contrast to the dives and a magnificent view from Sailrock offering sight on the blue and transparent water of the Similans.

​Hin Mueang was full of life, with glassfish and juvenile fusiliers forming dense schools constantly targeted by hunting trevallies, African pompano and rainbow runners. Juvenile emperor angelfish, ghostpipefish, Bornella anguilla, Halgerda tesselata and phyllidia of various colours covered the reef.
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Banded boxer shrimps, Durban dancing shrimps and cleaner shrimps filled every crevice, while titan triggerfish dug into the reef and redtooth triggerfish hovered above. Topsail drummers completed the scene.

​Hin Daeng delivered ghostpipefish, Glossodoris cincta and its eggs, ornate elysia, giant moray eels hunting in the shallows, Clark’s anemonefish, anemone crabs and tiger egg cowries. Batfish, fusiliers, snappers, surgeonfish, sweetlips and reef fish filled the water column.

​The night dive intensified the atmosphere with multiple giant moray eels hunting, small octopus camouflaging along the wall, and a constant movement of crabs and shrimps across the reef.

​At 8 Mile, excellent visibility revealed a very friendly marble grouper who looked like he was mixed with a barramoundi, great barracuda, schools of scribbled filefish, juvenile emperor angelfish, juvenile blue-ringed angelfish, stonefish, yellowtail barracuda and schools of giant trevallies, alongside fusiliers, snappers, surgeonfish and reef fish.

​Stonehenge offered three tigertail seahorses, including one black pregnant individual, surrounded by bird wrasse, moon wrasse and sixline wrasse, along with parrotfish, scorpionfish, butterflyfish and damsels.

​At Steps, the sunset dive featured yellow-scribbled pipefish, Kuhl’s blue-spotted stingray, bamboo shark, flounder and razorfish, alongside fusiliers, goatfish, sweetlips, surgeonfish and reef fish settling into the evening light.

​Hin Mueang again delivered intense action, with schools of dogtooth tuna, Spanish mackerel, rainbow runners and mackerels hunting through glassfish and juvenile fusiliers. Batfish hovered nearby, while two yellow ghostpipefish and topsail drummers added structure.
Hin Daeng revealed yellow and black ghostpipefish and a juvenile hawksbill turtle surfacing for air before resting. Clark’s anemonefish, anemone crabs, ornate sapsucking slugs and reef life filled the dive.

​At Cathedral, massive Glossodoris hikuerensis, Halgerda stricklandi, Halgerda candy, verconia alboannulata (noumea alboannulata), Bornella anguilla, a juvenile hawksbill turtle with a damaged shell, titan triggerfish carrying shells, bannerfish, Moorish idols, giant moray eel, longfin batfish and pinnate batfish created a rich and layered scene.

At the Cheminee, ghostpipefish, Cuthona sibogae, tiger cowrie eggs, giant moray eels, cave fish, sweetlips, snappers, yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers, glassfish, ornate elysia, scorpionfish, parrotfish and anemonefish filled the tunnel.

The day ended with our traditional BBQ on board, under calm seas and a sky full of stars.

​Bida Nok offered blacktip reef sharks, tigertail seahorse, two ghostpipefish, schools of five-lined snappers, giant moray eels, batfish and schools of fusiliers moving across the reef alongside butterflyfish, surgeonfish and parrotfish.

​At King Cruiser wreck, the sunken ferry now acts as a thriving artificial reef, covered in life. Schools of yellowback fusiliers, bigeye trevallies, school of jacks, snappers circled the structure, while lionfish and groupers, sweetlips and reef fish occupied every level of the wreck.
Closer to the structure, macro life revealed itself in layers: Hypselodoris infucata, Glossodoris atromarginata, Chromodoris aureopurpurea, Hypselodoris sp. 3 and Flabellina rubrolineata decorated the surfaces, turning the wreck into a vibrant underwater mosaic where small details were just as captivating as the schooling fish above.

We ended the trip in Phuket Marin Charter Pier, saying goodbye after a week rich in encounters, diversity and unforgettable underwater moments.
From open-ocean encounters to the smallest hidden reef life, this journey captured the full spectrum of Andaman diving — shaped by rhythm, diversity, and the quiet magic of life below the surface.
See you soon, fellow divers.

Pictures from Renaud Liberge & Frederique Béchet (pictured below) present on this trip and others from Franck Fogarolo.

​From rugged cliffs rising out of turquoise water to remote reefs pulsing with life, the Andaman Sea always rewards those who explore it patiently.
This week’s itinerary took us on a beautiful journey from the limestone islands of the South Andaman up to the vibrant reefs of the North Andaman. From Koh Phi Phi and Koh Lanta to the Similan and Surin National Parks, the route offered a wonderful contrast between dramatic pelagic encounters and intricate macro life hiding in the reefs.

​We departed from Charter Marine Pier in Phuket together with our Dive Buddy guests from Israel and began sailing toward the famous Phi Phi Islands. The Phi Phi National Park is known not only for its spectacular limestone cliffs rising straight out of pristine waters, but also for its vibrant coral reefs and sheltered bays that host a wide diversity of marine life. After a relaxed evening at anchor beneath towering cliffs, everyone was eager to begin diving the following morning.

Our check dive at Koh Bida Nok immediately reminded us why this site is so popular. Blacktip reef sharks cruised calmly along the reef edge while a tigertail seahorse and a ghostpipefish provided the first macro highlights of the trip. Flounders rested on sandy patches while feather seastars walked slowly across the reef. Schools of snappers gathered around coral heads and several Phyllidia species appeared alongside Hypselodoris bullocki, Hypselodoris iacula and purple-spotted Hypselodoris.
Purple urchin shrimps hid among spines, while banded sea snakes moved gracefully between rocks. A snowflake moray eel peeked from its shelter and Goniobranchus fidelis, Flabellina rubrolineata and decorator crabs added colourful details to the reef. Around us swam coral groupers, peacock groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, threadfin butterflyfish and schools of yellowback fusiliers moving through healthy coral gardens.

​The second dive took place in the calm Koh Haa Lagoon. A giant moray eel rested beneath coral bommies while juvenile clown triggerfish hovered nearby. A passing blacktip reef shark cruised over the sand as blue dragons glided along the reef. Macro highlights included Glossodoris rufomarginata, Halgerda tesselata, Janolus sp., Andaman jawfish and cardinalfish carrying eggs in their mouths. Bluestreak cleaner wrasse performed their cleaning dances while bicolor blennies watched from coral holes. Squat shrimps and lobsters shared rocky crevices as razor wrasse flashed across the reef

​The third dive brought us to the famous Koh Haa Cathedral, where shafts of sunlight illuminated the cavern. A juvenile hawksbill turtle glided slowly through the entrance while nudibranchs decorated the walls: Glossodoris hikuerensis, Bornella anguilla, Goniobranchus reticulata, Halgerda tesselata, Hypselodoris sp. and Glossodoris atromarginata. Skeleton shrimps clung to hydroids and a tiger cowrie rested beneath a coral ledge.

​Our night dive at Hin Daeng transformed the reef into a hunting ground. A giant moray eel prowled through the darkness while red reef crabs and ornamental spider crabs emerged from hiding. A red abalone rested on the rock and comb seastars stretched across the reef surface. Batfish and great barracuda passed slowly through the torchlight while Clark’s anemonefish guarded their eggs. Anemone hermit crabs and anemone crabs shared their hosts and a splendid red spooner crab waved its arms across the reef. Nearby, an ornate sap-sucking slug (Elysia) grazed along the coral.

​The morning began at Koh Rock, where colourful reefs hosted large schools of parrotfish and wrasses. A rare big feathertail stingray glided across the sandy bottom while a mimic phyllidia nudibranch rested beside Hypselodoris jacksoni. Stonefish blended perfectly into the reef and a banded sea snake moved slowly between coral heads. Clark’s anemonefish nurtured their eggs while anemone crabs guarded their homes.
Goniobranchus geminus, script flatworms, bluefin trevally and dragonets appeared across the reef. Lobsters hid beneath rocks while hairy shrimps, whip coral cowries, Flabellina rubrolineata, blue dragons and Ceratosoma tribolatum added a beautiful macro layer.

​At Hin Daeng, the reef exploded with life. Juvenile emperor angelfish shimmered in yellow and blue while tiger cowries rested beneath coral ledges. Barracudas circled above the reef while Goniobranchus reticulata, Goniobranchus geometrica and spotted Hypselodoris decorated the walls. Giant moray eels and bartail morays hid among cracks where masked porcupinefish shared shelters with banded boxer shrimps. Batfish cruised past while turtles, ghostpipefish, yellow-margin moray eels and mackerels passed through the blue.

​The third dive at Koh Haa Neua – the Chimney delivered exceptional macro life. Glossodoris cincta, ghostpipefish, tiger egg cowries, Cuthona sibogae, Bornella anguilla, ornate sap-sucking slugs and Moridilla brocki decorated the walls. Hypselodoris maculosa, Hypselodoris whitei, Caloria indica and bicolor flabellina added vibrant colours while lobsters hid between rocks. Schools of yellowback fusiliers and lunar fusiliers swirled above the reef together with copperband butterflyfish, Indian sailfin tang, coral grouper and blue-striped snappers.
After the final dive, we began our northern crossing toward the Similan National Park.

​Our first dive took place in Honeymoon Bay, where a large Jenkins ray rested peacefully on the sandy bottom.
At Tuna Wreck and Hideaway Reef, excellent visibility revealed giant sweetlips, a curious Napoleon wrasse and a delicate pygmy pipehorse. The psychedelic batwing slug added colour to the reef while schools of yellowback fusiliers, twinstripe fusiliers and blue-striped snappers swirled above the wreck. Coral groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, threadfin butterflyfish and oriental sweetlips patrolled the reef.

​The night dive at Honeymoon Bay was full of activity. Trevallies hunted among schools of small reef fish while porcupinefish and pufferfish cruised slowly through the sand patches. Barracudas passed in the distance while red reef crabs carrying eggs moved across the reef. Moray eels hunted actively and sleeping parrotfish and wrasses rested beneath coral ledges.

​At Deep Six, a whitetip reef shark cruised the reef while a turtle swam past granite boulders. An octopus shifted colours across the rocks while blue dragons and psychedelic batwing slugs decorated the reef. Powder-blue surgeonfish, copperband butterflyfish, oriental sweetlips and schools of neon fusiliers filled the water column.
Elephant Head Rock delivered dramatic granite formations. A blue ribbon eel waved from its burrow while an octopus explored the reef. Bornella anguilla and blue dragons appeared on the rocks beside an adult yellow boxfish. Giant trevallies and bluefin trevallies cruised through the arches while surgeonfish and oriental sweetlips gathered around coral heads. A giant moray eel watched divers from its cave.

​At Three Trees, a school of barracuda hovered in the blue above giant sweetlips and garden eels. Blue-spotted Kuhls rays rested on the sand and a giant barrel sponge dominated the reef structure. Schools of blue-lined snappers, yellowback fusiliers and scissortail fusiliers moved constantly across the reef.

​That evening’s blackwater dive was spectacular: male and female paper nautilus drifting gracefully, juvenile porcupinefish, squirrelfish larvae, squids, flounders and even a flying gurnard drifting through the beam of our lights.

​At Koh Bon Ridge, schools of barracuda circled above giant trevallies and bluefin trevallies. Damselfish, butterflyfish and two-tone dartfish hovered above the reef while Clark’s anemonefish guarded their homes. Titan triggerfish, redtooth triggerfish and the distinctive “WiFi triggerfish” moved across the reef alongside pajama surgeonfish. Nudibranchs such as Haminoea cymbalum and Chelidonura hirundinina and Chelidonura punctata decorated the sand while a banded sea snake slithered past. Andaman sweetlips hovered near coral ledges.

​Koh Tachai Plateau was spectacular. Blacktip sharks and Jenkins rays cruised across the plateau while a massive school of chevron barracuda filled the blue. Giant trevallies, bigeye trevallies, dogtooth tuna and rainbow runners hunted actively. Giant marble groupers rested near coral bommies while yellowback and neon fusiliers formed massive clouds above the reef. A juvenile hawksbill turtle swam past and clown triggerfish hovered near coral heads while whip coral gobies hid among gorgonians.

​On the third dive from the third pinnacle to the main plateau we encountered two more Jenkins rays, a curious Napoleon wrasse and two octopuses flirting among the rocks. Giant trevallies and bluefin trevallies cruised through dense schools of yellowback fusiliers while giant moray eels and batfish watched from the reef.

The night dive on Koh Tachai Reef revealed Glossodoris, Elysia species and Halgerda tesselata. A blacktip reef shark cruised through the darkness while a giant moray eel hunted along the reef.

​We returned to Richelieu Rock for three spectacular dives. Purple soft corals covered the pinnacle while glassfish formed shimmering clouds around the rock. Harlequin shrimps, ghostpipefish and thorny seahorses delighted macro lovers while Durban dancing shrimps, orange-spotted pipefish and cleaner pipefish filled the reef with activity.
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Giant trevallies and the famous Richelieu “gang” — rainbow runners, trevallies and longnose emperors — hunted through the schools of fish. Barracudas formed impressive formations including chevron, yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda. Peacock mantis shrimps, banded boxer shrimps and blue-legged boxer shrimps decorated the reef while giant moray eels and a zebra moray eel emerged from their holes. Scorpionfish and devil scorpionfish rested on the reef while batfish and juvenile emperor angelfish cruised nearby.

​Our sunset dive at Ao Pakard (Cabbage Bay) revealed a vibrant coral reef. A hawksbill turtle swam slowly past while schools of juvenile barracuda hovered above the reef. Sailfin tang surgeonfish grazed alongside yellow saddle goatfish, angelfish and triggerfish. Kuhls blue-spotted stingrays rested on the sand while blue dragons, juvenile scorpionfish and juvenile mantis shrimps appeared among coral rubble.

​The final morning began at Torinla Pinnacle, where Koran angelfish swam alongside surgeonfish, butterflyfish and giant moray eels. A whitetip shark slept beneath a rock while a school of bumphead parrotfish passed slowly through the reef. Kuhls blue-spotted rays glided across the sandy patches and a bright yellow “Pikachu” nudibranch delighted photographers.

​For the final dive at Richelieu Rock, the reef delivered a grand finale. The gang returned once more: trevallies, longnose emperors and a ball of jacks swirling through the water column. Barracudas formed impressive schools while juvenile clown triggerfish and juvenile emperor angelfish hovered over the reef. Thorny seahorses, ghostpipefish and tiger cowries with their eggs decorated the coral. Hypselodoris decorata, dark-margin glossodoris and blue dragons added colour while peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows. Schools of yellowback fusiliers, lunar fusiliers and manylined fusiliers filled the water column above coral groupers, copperband butterflyfish and powder-blue surgeonfish.

​Soon after surfacing, we began sailing back toward Ranong — closing another unforgettable Andaman adventure aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse.
Until the next tide brings us together again — dive well, dive aware, and see you soon fellow divers.

Hin Mueang again delivered ghost pipefish, juvenile emperor angelfish, halgerda tesselata and African wrasse.
 
Hin Daeng brought double-spotted queenfish, barracudas, needlefish and more dogtooth tuna, alongside orange-spotted pipefish and lobsters hiding under ledges.​

This 8-day south-to-north Andaman liveaboard charter offered an exceptional cross-section of Thailand’s Andaman Sea diving. From calm lagoons and dramatic southern pinnacles to the fish-rich northern marine parks and legendary Richelieu Rock, the trip combined pelagic action, rare macro life, vibrant coral reefs and relaxed liveaboard living. Calm seas and good visibility throughout allowed us to fully enjoy each site with our private group of US guests.

Day 1 – Phuket to Koh Haa Lagoon
We welcomed our guests aboard in Phuket before departing toward Koh Haa Lagoon. The afternoon was spent settling in, assembling dive gear, and enjoying the first sunset at sea as we cruised south. Anticipation built for the check dive scheduled for the following morning in the calm, protected lagoon.

Day 2 – Koh Haa, Hin Daeng & Hin Muang
Our check dive at Koh Haa Lagoon provided ideal conditions to ease into Andaman diving. A hawksbill turtle cruised past the reef while a blacktip reef shark patrolled the edge of the lagoon. Moray eels peered from coral heads, including a memorable sighting of a moray eel swimming freely across the sand. African pompano and longnose emperors passed through the blue, while oriental and harlequin sweetlips hovered near the reef. Macro highlights included a black cat headshield slug and a delicate Fabalina nudibranch. Wrasses, parrotfish, butterflyfish, angelfish, surgeonfish and clouds of damselfish filled the shallow reef.
The second dive at Hin Daeng delivered immediate big-fish energy. Schools of batfish glided along the drop-off, surrounded by bluefin trevallies, giant trevallies, rainbow runners and barracuda. Potato groupers rested on ledges, while redtooth triggerfish, juvenile angelfish and schooling bannerfish animated the reef. Honeycomb and snowflake moray eels hid among soft corals, while ghost pipefish, spotted Hypselodoris, anemone clownfish and anemone crabs rewarded careful observation.
At Hin Muang, the third dive featured strong currents and excellent fish life. Dogtooth tuna and golden trevallies cruised past in the blue, joined by milkfish and schools of naked fusiliers. Batfish hovered near the pinnacle as glassfish swirled tightly around coral outcrops, constantly harassed by hunting jacks. Coral groupers, a shy lobster, multiple ghost pipefish and a striking juvenile emperor angelfish completed the scene.
Our night dive revealed a different side of the reef. Hunting moray eels, including bartail and snowflake morays, moved actively across the coral. A resting hawksbill turtle, yellow boxfish and a cruising barracuda were highlights, while the reef came alive with macro life such as tiger cowries, Mauritia arabica immanis, Willey’s Halgerda, bicolor Fabelina, Jebb’s flatworm and sapsucking slugs.

Day 3 – 8 Mile Rock, Stonehenge & Koh Sawang
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Two morning dives at 8 Mile Rock delivered classic Andaman schooling action. Great barracudas cruised above the reef while schools of yellow snappers, bigeye trevallies and bluefin trevallies moved in unison. Red-bar anthias coloured the reef, joined by marbled groupers, fimbriated moray eels and ghost pipefish. Allied cowries and Chromodoris nudibranchs added macro interest among hard corals, sea fans and sponges.
The third dive at Stonehenge showcased its famous soft-coral formations in full colour. Layers of red, orange and purple soft corals covered the structures, sheltering flounders, tomato clownfish and a black-gill Phestilla nudibranch. A Kuhl’s stingray rested on the sand while a massive sea snake moved calmly through the reef. Schools of snappers, wrasses, parrotfish and fusiliers filled the water column.
Our final dive of the day at Koh Sawang focused on critter life. A huge spearer mantis shrimp was the standout, accompanied by yellow boxfish, porcupinefish, rabbitfish, whip coral shrimp and squat shrimp. Bluefin trevallies continued to patrol the deeper sections of the site.

Day 4 – Hin Muang, Hin Daeng & Koh Haa Cathedral
Returning south for one final day before heading north, Hin Muang once again delivered strong action with ghost pipefish, rainbow runners, batfish, tuna and great barracudas. A dramatic moment unfolded as predatory fish hunted inside a dense glassfish bowl. Spiny lobsters and redtooth triggerfish were common along the reef.
At Hin Daeng, ornate ghost pipefish were spotted among soft corals while yellowtail and dogtooth tuna hunted glassfish in the blue. Schools of batfish, oriental sweetlips, milkfish and juvenile emperor angelfish moved across the drop-off, accompanied by honeycomb morays and redtooth triggerfish.
The third dive at Koh Haa Cathedral featured impressive swim-throughs and beams of light cutting through the cave. Giant and snowflake moray eels hid among the rocks, while potato groupers rested near the entrance. Bluefin trevallies, schools of yellow snappers, a passing reef shark and Spanish mackerel cruised by. Macro highlights included Halgerda tessellata, baby boxfish and sea cucumbers scattered across the reef.
That evening, we began our transit north toward the Similan Marine Park.

Day 5 – Similan Islands & Koh Bon
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At Sharkfin Reef, hawksbill turtles cruised along the granite boulders, accompanied by longnose emperors, bluefin trevallies and schools of neon and lunar fusiliers. Flatworms, wrasses, parrotfish, butterflyfish and surgeonfish filled the reef.
West of Eden (Similan Island #7) offered a lush reefscape. Giant moray eels, peacock mantis shrimp, brown marbled groupers and baby honeycomb morays were spotted alongside red fire gobies, flasher wrasse, cornetfish, starry dragonets and African sand wrasse. Two turtles passed slowly through the reef while schools of fusiliers streamed overhead.
At Three Trees (Similan Island #9), bird wrasses, clown triggerfish, big jobfish and a Napoleon wrasse dominated the dive, joined by an eagle ray gliding through the blue and several cornetfish cruising between bommies.
Our sunset dive at Koh Bon Ridge and Reef brought giant trevallies hunting among glassfish, massive schools of emperors, fusiliers, Andaman sweetlips, angelfish and coral groupers as the light faded.

Day 6 – Koh Bon, Koh Tachai & Night Dive
Morning dives at Koh Bon Pinnacle and West Ridge were packed with schooling fish. Batfish, barracudas, bluefin trevallies, giant trevallies, bannerfish and butterflyfish surrounded the pinnacle, joined by coral groupers, lionfish, emperors and double-spotted queenfish. Yellow goatfish hunted alongside trevallies, while moray eels and tuna patrolled the reef edges.
After cruising north, we reached Koh Tachai Plateau, where schools of barracuda, GTs, bluefin trevallies and dogtooth tuna dominated the dive. A hawksbill turtle passed by, followed by a large Jenkins whipray. Juvenile and adult clown triggerfish, royal angelfish, brown marbled groupers and batfish completed the scene.
The night dive at Koh Tachai Reef was a standout. Five blacktip reef sharks remained with the divers for 30–40 minutes, while checkered, mangrove and red snappers actively hunted. Fusiliers, barracuda, lionfish and another turtle encounter made for an unforgettable evening dive.

We also went on a Blackwater dive that night and it didnt disappoint with its fair share of cephalopods, crustaceans and juvenile fish! 

Days 7 & 8 – Richelieu Rock
A full two days of diving at Richelieu Rock delivered everything the site is famous for. The “gang” of giant trevallies, longnose emperors and rainbow runners hunted together through clouds of glassfish and fusiliers. Schools of barracuda, amberjacks and batfish circled the pinnacles, while coral groupers and sweetlips occupied the reef.
Macro life was exceptional: thorny seahorses, octopus, jawfish, harlequin shrimp, cleaner pipefish, orange-spotted pipefish, ornate sapsucking slugs, Dermatobranchus and Nendronotis species, tiger egg cowries, spearer mantis shrimp and juvenile clown triggerfish were all recorded. Additional sightings included juvenile blue triggerfish and ridged dermatobranchs.
The final two dives on Day 8 brought more jawfish, thorny seahorses, octopus, schools of barracuda and batfish, peacock-tail shrimp and mole cowries—an ideal conclusion to the trip.
After the last dive, we cruised north to Ranong, where guests disembarked, bringing this South-to-North Andaman journey to a close.

​A classic north-to-south Andaman crossing, mixing iconic pinnacles, colourful reefs and relaxed lagoon dives, with a great group of guests from Israel travelling accompanied by Ian, our partner at Dive Buddy Agency. Eight days of variety, big fish action, macro treasures and vibrant reefs, all stitched together by calm seas and excellent visibility.

​We welcomed our guests in Ranong before the boat briefing and an early afternoon departure toward the Surin National Park. As the coastline faded behind us, anticipation grew for the first dives of the trip and the promise of healthy reefs and rich marine life ahead.

Our check dive at Koh Chi gently introduced everyone to Andaman conditions. A shy hawksbill turtle cruised past the reef while false anemonefish hovered over their hosts. Batfish glided between bommies, giant moray eels peeked from crevices, and schools of bannerfish mixed with yellowback and naked fusiliers. Blue sea stars, sea urchins, leopard sea cucumbers and table corals carpeted the reef, joined by powder-blue angelfish, longnose butterflyfish and clouds of damselfish.

Dives two and three took place at Richelieu Rock, which was in full celebration mode. Three harlequin shrimps were busy with their sea star meals, while Chromodoris annulata, Cuthona sibogae and ghost pipefish added delicate details to the scene. Around them swirled the famous Richelieu gang: giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, bigeye trevallies, rainbow runners, chevron barracudas and dense schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers. Glassfish shimmered around the pinnacles, constantly harassed by hunting jacks, while coral groupers, peacock groupers, batfish and sweetlips filled every layer of the reef. Soft corals, sea fans and hard coral bommies completed the festival atmosphere.
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Our night dive at Bungalow, on the west side of Surin South, revealed a different mood. Giant lobsters roamed freely in the dark, black flatworms crept over the sand, brittle stars unfolded their arms and a small whitetip reef shark patrolled silently along the edge of the reef.

Two morning dives at Koh Tachai Pinnacle delivered excellent visibility and constant motion around the main, second and third pinnacles. Giant trevallies, bluefin and golden trevallies hunted alongside rainbow runners and dogtooth tuna. Schools of fusiliers, including yellowback, scissortail, neon and variable-lined fusiliers, streamed past in silver ribbons, mixed with five-lined snappers and goatfish. Marble groupers were joined by coral groupers and peacock groupers, while triggerfish, blennies, wrasses and parrotfish animated the reef. Sea stars, feather stars and soft corals clung to the granite slopes.

The third dive explored Koh Bon Pinnacle and North Ridge. Maldivian sponge snails decorated the rocks, surrounded by schools of fusiliers and sea chubs, humpnose big-eye bream and longnose emperors. Squat shrimps and anemone crabs hid among soft corals with Clark’s anemonefish, while sweetlips and multiple snapper species hovered above the reef.
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At sunset, Koh Bon Ridge and Bay came alive with octopus activity and a colony of Haminoea cymbalum. Giant lobsters, moray eels, sweetlips, wrasses, parrotfish and triggerfish emerged as the light faded. During the crossing to the Similan Islands, a pod of dolphins escorted the boat, riding the bow wave almost the entire way.

The day began at Three Trees, where massive barrel sponges crowned deep boulders covered in pink and purple soft corals. Garden eels danced above the sand as dogtooth tuna patrolled the blue. Bluefin trevallies, Durban dancing shrimps, a young hawksbill turtle and blue-spotted stingrays rounded out the scene, joined by sweetlips, wrasses, parrotfish, fusiliers, snappers, basslets, groupers, butterflyfish, angelfish and surgeonfish.
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At Elephant Head Rock, a young hawksbill turtle rested inside a swim-through while blue ribbon eels waved from the sand. Trevallies and emperors cruised past large granite formations dotted with hard corals and sea fans.
West of Eden offered a lush reefscape with banded sea snakes, blackspotted and oriental sweetlips, and Thuridilla undula. Wrasses, parrotfish, fusiliers, snappers, basslets, groupers, angelfish, triggerfish, rabbitfish and moray eels filled the coral gardens.

Koh Haa Lagoon welcomed us with calm water and beautiful light. Tigertail cowries, a colony of Chelidonura on the sand, common porcupinefish and oriental sweetlips shared the lagoon with wrasses, parrotfish, fusiliers, snappers, basslets, small groupers, butterflyfish, angelfish and surgeonfish. Sea cucumbers and sea urchins dotted the sandy patches between coral heads.

At Koh Haa Yai, also known as Cathedral, Bornella anguilla hid deep inside the cave, while Phidiana militaris waited at the exit. Multiple Phyllidia species and Glossodoris cincta adorned the walls. Schools of checkered snappers, bluefin trevallies and batfish circled outside, while coral groupers and fusiliers moved through shafts of light. Jellyfish drifting nearby attracted filefish and naked fusiliers.

Hin Muang revealed juvenile ghost pipefish among soft corals, surrounded by sweetlips, wrasses, parrotfish, fusiliers, snappers, basslets, groupers, butterflyfish, angelfish, triggerfish and moray eels.
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The sunset dive at Hin Daeng closed the day with schools of batfish, anemone crabs tending Clark’s anemonefish eggs, giant moray eels and golden trevallies, all set against a backdrop of red soft corals, sea fans and busy reef life.

Our first dive at Hin Paad, also known as Eight Mile, revealed a unique reef coated in yellow and green hard corals, mainly lettuce coral and sheet coral. Curious great barracudas, schools of jacks, rainbow runners and giant trevallies cruised by, while ghost pipefish hovered near the reef. Fusiliers filled the water column, and white-eye and fimbriated moray eels patrolled the cracks, joined by angelfish, butterflyfish, scorpionfish and surgeonfish.

At Koh Adang Rock, the dive shifted between muck and boulders. Chromodoris risbecia pulchella, scorpionfish, elegant crinoid squat lobsters and translucent porcelain crabs nestled inside purple soft corals, with sea stars and feather stars scattered across the slope.
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Stonehenge delivered its trademark colours, with layers of red, orange, yellow, purple, blue, green and white soft corals covering the structures. Tigertail seahorse clung to gorgonians, various damselfish defended their territories, and common porcupinefish hovered above the reef. Lionfish, sea urchins, wrasses, parrotfish and triggerfish completed the vibrant scene.

While one group enjoyed a sunset dive at Koh Taru with familiar reef residents and hunting moray eels, others opted for a blackwater dive off Koh Lipe. Remoras searched for hosts, tiny squids flashed and released ink, and larval fish, jelly creatures and drifting crustaceans floated through the darkness.

At Koh Rock Reef, octopus explored the reef among giant barrel sponges. Schools of naked and yellowback fusiliers streamed past black surgeonfish, Durban dancing shrimps and giant moray eels. Juvenile lobsters hid in cracks alongside wrasses, parrotfish, butterflyfish and angelfish.

The second dive split between Hin Daeng and Hin Muang. Bornella anguilla reappeared at Hin Muang, while both sites delivered schools of batfish, rainbow runners and giant trevallies against dramatic drop-offs covered in soft corals.
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Our third dive at Koh Haa Yai, Cathedral, featured giant moray eels tucked inside barrel sponges, Chromodoris annulata and Risbecia pulchella decorating the walls, and steady schools of fusiliers and snappers circling the entrance.

Our final dive of the day took us back to Koh Haa Neua and its famous Chimney, a vertical swim-through packed with life from top to bottom. Along the walls, we spotted Cuthona siboage and doriprismatica atromarginata (glossodoris) while a juvenile two-color parrotfish hovered cautiously near the coral. Moray eels were hidden deep inside the chimney, accompanied by scorpionfish, blennies and curious wrasses peeking out from the cracks. Above the opening, schools of fusiliers and snappers cruised by, joined by sweetlips, angelfish, butterflyfish, triggerfish, surgeonfish and groupers. Seastars, sea cucumbers and sea urchins dotted the reef, and the entire structure was coated in a beautiful mix of soft corals and hard corals, providing a colorful and serene end to the diving day.

​One last dive at Shark Point rounded off the trip with blue-spotted stingrays, snowflake moray eel, schools of snappers, fusiliers, butterflyfish, angelfish and clouds of glassfish over healthy hard corals and sea fans. After surfacing, we headed to Chok Thaworn Pier in Phuket to say goodbye to our Dive Buddy group, closing a memorable North and South Andaman journey aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse.

​Our new diving season began with a wonderfully international group joining us at Chok Thaeworn Pier in Phuket. Divers arrived from Switzerland, France, Holland, Belgium, Taiwan, Australia, Saudi Arabia, and Canada — including our special guest and paparazza Katie, already armed with her camera. With everyone settled in aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, we started our southbound journey toward the crystalline waters of the Koh Lanta National Park and the remote pinnacle of Hin Muang.

​Koh Lanta National Park — turquoise lagoons & dramatic limestone formations

Koh Lanta National Park is known for its sheltered lagoons, underwater caverns, and vibrant coral slopes, making it a perfect starting point for our first dives of the season. Our check dive at Koh Haa set the tone, with chromodoris annulata and chromodoris kuniei decorating the reef like tiny jewels. Coral groupers hovered above bommies as juvenile angelfish and juvenile clown triggerfish darted around. Schools of yellowback fusiliers moved in waves alongside snappers and mackerels, while golden trevallies flashed past in hunting formation. A great barracuda cruised by, and a yellow-margin triggerfish paused at a cleaning station surrounded by busy wrasses and partner shrimps. Dusky damselfish, flutemouths and curious butterflyfish added movement and colour to the scene.

We continued south to Hin Muang for a spectacular wide-blue dive blessed with excellent visibility. Schools of batfish followed us down the wall where giant, bluefin and white-tongue trevallies patrolled the deep. Longnose emperors glided over purple-red soft corals, yellow boxfish played hide-and-seek around ledges, and a fimbriated moray eel peeked out from a crack. Rainbow runners flickered past like silver missiles while dogtooth tunas circled in the blue. A wandering octopus inspected our group before disappearing into the reef, and a white bent-stick pipefish blended perfectly with the soft coral background. Wrasses, anthias and red-toothed triggerfish filled every corner of the reef.
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Our final dives of the day took place at Koh Rok Ridge, where porcupinefish of every pattern — false-eye, blue-spotted, black-spotted and fine-spotted — hovered curiously. Blue-legged boxer shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps were busy in the crevices of the giant barrel sponges, one of which hid a massive giant moray eel. Yellowback fusiliers, yellow-lined snappers and giant trevallies passed in numbers, while anemonefish guarded their shimmering homes and hawkfish perched proudly on coral heads.

The night dive revealed an entirely different world. Giant hermit crabs marched across the sand, cleaning shrimps wiggled within the shadows of barrel sponges and delicate flabellinas crawled over the reef. Big red crabs explored the rocks, bubble corals sheltered tiny squat shrimps, parrotfish slept in their mucus cocoons and several triggerfish wedged themselves safely into cracks. A scribbled filefish drifted slowly through the torch beams while cardinalfish and soldierfish hovered along the walls.

We began again at Koh Haa Yai, the famous “Cathedral,” where the large caverns glowed with natural light. Cleaner pipefish hovered above sandy patches, yellow boxfish zig-zagged between boulders, and golden trevallies cruised through shoals of rabbitfish. Hermit crabs roamed along the rocky edges, tiger cowries shimmered on the walls, and Moorish idols danced gracefully in pairs. Surgeonfish, fairy wrasses and angelfish of all sizes added movement around the cathedral arches while another yellow-margin triggerfish watched us pass with suspicion.

Koh Haa Lagoon offered calm, crystal-clear water between islands 2 and 4. A giant moray eel and a yellow-edge moray eel shared the same patch of reef while Durban dancing shrimps and partner shrimps worked tirelessly at cleaning stations. Garden eels swayed like tall grass on the sandy bottom, convict blennies formed tight black-and-white tornadoes, and a red-marbled lizardfish watched for prey. Bearded scorpionfish lay perfectly still, and yellowfin soldiers hovered above the rocks. Two dogtooth tunas patrolled the perimeter while giant trevallies and juvenile emperor angelfish added flashes of yellow and blue. Wrasses, anthias, parrotfish and goatfish swirled across the lagoon.

At Koh Haa Chimney, we descended through the famous vertical tunnel before circling the large boulders outside. Yellow-lined snappers formed dense clouds, neon fusiliers streaked through the blue, and giant trevallies and dogtooth tunas swept along the deeper edges. A giant coral grouper patrolled the sandy bottom, and a proud peacock mantis shrimp marched boldly along the wall. Inside the entrance cave, nudibranchs glossodoris cincta and bornella anguilla decorated the rock while a graceful young banded sea snake hunted in the shallow 3-meter water as we finished the dive.
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Our sunset dive at Koh Haa Yai Reef was magical, with schools of Moorish idols, lined surgeonfish and copperband butterflyfish gliding above healthy hard corals and vibrant sea fans. Branching acropora, mushroom corals and large plate corals created perfect backdrops as the day slowly shifted into dusk.

A protected archipelago known for limestone cliffs, caverns & rich megafauna

Phi Phi National Park welcomed us with its dramatic limestone peaks and nutrient-rich waters.
Our first dive at Koh Bida Nok delivered an abundance of life. We found four tigertail seahorses clinging to sea fans, two banded sea snakes exploring crevices and a massive lobster hiding under a ledge. A beautifully patterned Dermatobranchus ornatus nudibranch crawled across a rock. Blacktip reef sharks glided by, and a resting leopard shark offered a serene moment. Schools of yellow-lined snappers and juvenile silver batfish danced in loose formation.

At Anemone Reef, the pinnacle was fully carpeted with blue, green and pink anemones swaying with the current, home to colourful anemonefish and porcelain crabs. Cometfish hovered above the reef while squids moved in formation. Yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers and yellow-lined snappers circled continuously while a fimbriated moray eel shared a crack with two white-eye morays. A yellow-edge moray eel and a copperband butterflyfish completed the scene.

Shark Point offered yet another highlight with gigantic pickhandle barracudas at a cleaning station, schools of blacktail barracudas, and a pair of pharaoh cuttlefish mating in the shallows. Large barrel sponges and elegant sea fans decorated the ridge. Fimbriated, white-eye and giant moray eels appeared one after another, while copperband butterflyfish played among the soft corals. Wrasses, anthias, damselfish and soft-coral gobies filled every corner of the reef.
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We then began our long navigation north — about 15 hours — following the coastline of Phuket and the Phang Nga region toward the Similan Islands.

Nine granitic islands with some of Thailand’s healthiest reefs

After a smooth 12-hour crossing, the iconic boulder landscapes of the Similans appeared on the horizon.
Our first dive at East of Princess Bay (Island 4) took us through Stonehenge, where large slabs of granite formed passageways filled with octopus, giant trevallies and juvenile oriental sweetlips. Lined surgeonfish moved calmly across the reef while peacock mantis shrimps patrolled the sand. Butterflyfish, angelfish, fairy wrasses and juvenile wrasses added colour at every turn.

West of Eden was spectacular with an ovula ovum cowrie mating on a coral head, schools of pennant coralfish weaving between boulders, and both yellowface and bluering angelfish showing off their vibrant colours. African coris and pastel ring-wrasse danced over the hard corals while a white-tip reef shark cruised by, followed closely by five imposing giant trevallies. Blue dragons decorated the coral blocks and a clown triggerfish impressed our divers. Gobies, chromis and small anthias flickered in the light.

At Hideaway, honeycomb groupers, peacock hinds, coral groupers and longface emperors dotted the reef, joined by oriental sweetlips and a mixed school of bluestreak and dory snappers. Durban dancing shrimps cleaned patiently below, while schools of juvenile blackfin barracudas and young bluefin trevallies hunted together with yellow-saddle goatfish.
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The night dive at West of Eden revealed sleeping parrotfish, squirrelfish, soldierfish, hunting morays, long-legged spiny lobsters, glossy nudibranchs and massive moon groupers patrolling the shadows. Cardinalfish, sweepers and nocturnal wrasses reflected the torchlight.

Honeymoon Bay (Island 4) greeted us with two octopuses mating in the sand channel. Dogtooth tunas circled the reef while cometfish, Durban dancing shrimps and partner shrimps explored the coral heads. A school of black-tail damselfish illuminated the water column, and a bright Halgerda tessellata nudibranch was the star of the macro search.

Back at West of Eden, we encountered another dogtooth tuna, a large green turtle and a small hawksbill turtle. Three more octopuses were spotted, including another mating pair. Leopard blennies peeked from holes while black-veined, dusky and two-coloured parrotfish grazed among the corals. Three-spot angelfish, hermit crabs and banded pipefish added to the action.

Elephant Head Rock delivered its signature swim-throughs, where giant trevallies roamed alongside giant yellow boxfish, porcupinefish, unicorn sweetlips, Andaman sweetlips, six-banded angelfish, rabbitfish, spotted boxfish and map puffers.
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Our sunset dive at Turtle Rock (Island 8) featured brassy drummers, more giant yellow boxfish, black surgeonfish, blackear wrasse, spotted-tail dart gobies, porcelain crabs, marble groupers, coral groupers, tiger cowries and a parade of parrotfish grazing the reef. A pygmy squid darted in and out of view, and an octopus displayed brilliant colors as it hunted among the rocks.

Eagle’s Rock surprised us with beautiful coral bommies and granite formations sheltering giant morays, bluefin trevallies, dogtooth tunas and sail-finned surgeonfish. A tiny juvenile rockmover wrasse danced hypnotically across the sand.

At Donald Duck Bay, we explored the iconic boulders and giant barrel sponges where peacock mantis shrimps peeked out from holes. Dogtooth tunas, bluefin trevallies, giant morays, clownfish, blue dragons, sail-finned surgeons, sea fans, puffers, hawkfish, cometfish and oriental sweetlips kept us entertained. A tiny teardrop butterflyfish juvenile danced near the surface.

Back to Elephant Head Rock for our third dive of the day, we crossed paths with a white-tip reef shark, slender groupers, lizardfish, coral groupers, giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies and huge schools of neon fusiliers lighting up the blue.
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Our blackwater dive was a festival of planktonic life — larval mantis shrimps, long chains of siphonophores, crab larvae, salps carrying tiny fish companions, squids, larval anemones, larval triggerfish, eel larvae, drifting jellyfish and countless shrimp and spreadfish. Even a tiny larval lizardfish appeared under our lights.

Our last morning at Honeymoon Bay was peaceful with a gentle zebra shark resting on the sand. Parrotfish, rabbitfish, wrasses and schools of fusiliers glided calmly above the reef while gobies, blennies and butterflyfish added colour to the shallows.
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Boonsung Wreck, as always, was a fish soup of the highest order. Clouds of juvenile yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers and blue-striped snappers filled every corner while juvenile silver batfish shimmered around the structure. Porcupinefish floated in groups like balloons, honeycomb and white-eye moray eels peeked from the metal plates, pompano hunted through the clouds of fish and big-eye trevallies zig-zagged through the chaos. Chromodoris kuniei and bright Halgerda nudibranchs crawled along the beams as damsels, wrasses and parrotfish weaved through the dense schools.

We surfaced from our final dive tired, happy and already eager for the next adventure, ending our trip at Tap Lamu Pier with big smiles all around.