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Harlequin shrimp? More like Hannibal Lecter shrimp!

31/7/2020

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Coral reefs are rich, biodiverse ecosystems that are home to incredible creatures of all shapes and sizes. Scuba divers from all over the world flock to remote locations like the Similan and Surin Islands, South Andaman in Thailand or Mergui Archipelago in Burma, and  to have the chance to catch a glimpse of marine curiosities from massive manta rays to tiny nudibranchs scattered across underwater landscapes that will take your breath away. If you are the kind of person who is enthralled by macro life, you have surely heard of the harlequin shrimp. 
Harlequin shrimp the hannibal lecter of the seas - blog
Also called Hymenocera Elegant, the Harlequin Shrimp is a minuscule flamboyant crustacean that is among the superstars of its family. Its hypnotic coloration and bizarre behavior are some of the reasons that this rarity is high on the list of Macro-life Under Water photographers (read the full Underwater guide to diving Thailand).
Harlequin shrimp and anemone

​Spotting a harlequin shrimp

portrait of the Harlequin shrimp close up
Harlequin shrimp can be identified by some distinctive features such as the unique body shape and appendages. Their claws are large and flat, different from all other types of shrimp. Their tail is trapezoidal and they use two fancy flat antennae on their heads with sophisticated scent receptors tuned to detect prey. 

How big do harlequin shrimp get

The females can grow up to 5cm in length whereas the males, even fully gown, looks like a juveniles next to them.

    One of the Harlequin Shrimps most attractive feature is their Carnaval-ready costume. Their carapace is cream-colored patterned with large psychedelic spots.
It used to be thought that there were two varieties of harlequin shrimp (Hymenocera elegant and H. Picta) but it was later concluded that they are one and the same with variations in color depending on the region they inhabit. ​
Around the Indian Ocean (H. Elegant), they generally have orange to purple spots surrounded by a blue line.
While Harlequin shrimp native to the 
pacific, particularly from Hawaii (H. Picta), are the most vibrant with spots that are rather pink or purple detailed with a yellow lining.   ​
H. Picta Hawaiian harlequin shrimp
Hawaiian Harlequin Shrimp. (H. Picta) Native of the Pacific

Can harlequin shrimp change color?

 Some aquarium owners have reported that Harlequin shrimp can change color base on their mood and as an example, one ordered a pair one picta, and one elegant, both arrived looking identical in color until they both calmed down and returned to their true colors!
      These intricate motifs have developed through evolution as a means of protection. In the underwater world, animals with bright colors are usually recognized by potential predators as toxic. This is true for the harlequin shrimp whose advantage invites far fewer natural predators than other less colored creatures of similar stature.
baby and parent harlequin shrimp feeding on a seastar
Harlequin Shrimp and juvenile (H. Elegant)

Home sweet hiding hole ​

Harlequin Shrimp couple might stay together their entire life
Harlequin shrimps live on and around coral reefs between 1 and 30 meters deep. These shy creatures tend to prefer dark narrow crevices and branched corals to seek refuge from the jaws of the fish, crabs, and octopus that prey on them. 
They are often found in pairs and if a couple successfully establishes a secure den they can be found in the same place together for long periods of time. Sometimes Harlequin Shrimps will even spend the vast majority of their 7-year lifespan in the same place and with the same mate. They will live, breed, hunt, and defend their territory together loyally as long as their surroundings allow them. You may be thinking this is a very romantic gesture on the part of these gorgeous couples. Sorry to burst your bubble, but this behavior might just be a good way to increase their chances for the female’s eggs to get fertilized...

​Romance in the style of a harlequin shrimp

harlequin shrimp and starfish symbiotic relationship
        Like many crustaceans in general, harlequin shrimp moult when they outgrow their shells leaving them soft and exposed. This sloughing allows the renewal of the exoskeleton and marks the moment when a female reaches sexual maturity. She will be roughly 200-240 days old when she undergoes her first molting period and then repeats the process every 18-26 days for the rest of her life. Following every shedding of her carapace, she will be fertile and ready to reproduce. 
        During the breeding season, the female can produce between 100 and 5000 eggs which she will carry attached to her abdomen following fertilization. This may seem like a staggering number but most of the young will not survive their next stage of development. Basically, the more babies that hatch the more chances that some will survive to sexual maturity and continue to propagate the species. 
Harlequin shrimp baby
Juvenile of Harlequin Shrimp
           After 12-18 days of gestation, the larvae emerge from their eggs extremely small and vulnerable ready to begin the 5-6 week settlement period. If they can find a safe place to grow during this time the larvae will develop into their awe-inspiring mature form.

What do harlequin shrimp eat? 

        Harlequin shrimp have very unique dinning habits that could easily be inspiring for the plot of a horror movie. Although they are very small, they survive on a diet of almost exclusively live starfish much bigger then themselves. With a particular taste for their legs and soft tissues (best eaten with a nice chianti). Most seas tars species are suitable but reportedly Harlequin shrimp cannot eat brittle stars.
"Are Harlequin Shrimp fetishist?"
Seastar feets are their favorite meal!

Harlequin shrimp feeding on a pink seastar

How do harlequin shrimp kill starfish?

​           The mating pair will hunt together, sharing the tasks at hand. They will first have to track down their prey using their sensitive antennae. Males, although much smaller, have been known to be more agile and proficient with this hunt than the females. Once the starfish is caught, the pair of harlequin shrimp will work as a team to flip the starfish over and then drag it back to their den using their powerful pincers. Unable to move, the starfish’s tube-like feet are exposed for its captors to feast on while it’s still alive.
harlequin shrimp eating a blue starfish

A curious harlequin shrimp and starfish relationship

          Even more gruesome is the harlequin shrimp’s tendency to prolong the starfish’s misery by feeding it for up to two weeks’ time to keep it alive and fresh. Some starfish will try to put up a fight by shedding the limb that is being eaten and regrowing a new limb to replace it. Unfortunately, the echinoderm is often too weak to effectively regenerate tissues. This is probably a blessing in disguise, as this effort would essentially give these twisted shrimp further opportunity to extend its prey’s torture. 
        In moments of desperation, the harlequin shrimp will resort to eating the similar soft leg tubes of sea urchins. It is clear that this is not their choice food source as they will only resort to this should the only other option be starvation.

Harmony on the reef

            If you look past the freaky aspects of the harlequin shrimp’s food fetishes, there are actually benefits on a grander scale. The fact that their picky palate only has a taste for sea stars, including the species that eats coral has nurtured an important symbiotic relationship with the reef. The corals provide shelter while the shrimp will slowly help control the starfish population which could be extremely problematic should it grow out of hand.
         
Species like the crown of thorns starfish can devastate healthy coral colonies if there aren’t enough natural predators to keep their numbers under control. Although harlequin shrimp populations aren’t dense enough to eradicate these pests, they still do their part to fend off these destructive creatures who put their living habitat in jeopardy.
starfish symbiotic relationship with shrimp

Harlequin shrimps are in danger 

H. picta
         Like many other marine creatures, harlequin shrimp are suffering due to the intervention of humans in their environment. Global warming, pollution, coral bleaching events, changes to water chemistry, and fishing to name a few, are factors that threaten this gorgeous species. ​
​           The deterioration of coral reefs could have a devastating impact on this species as they will not have the protection to help them develop and thrive. Also with fewer corals come fewer starfish for harlequin shrimp to eat, and thus begins a vicious cycle of doom. Although there are no specific conservation initiatives targeting harlequin shrimp, coral conservation projects can indirectly benefit individuals living on a reef that is well cared for.
H. Elegant with blue spots
      In recent years with the growing aquarium trade, these beauties have also become a major target for people wishing to put them on display in their personal fish tanks. When you search the internet for information on harlequin shrimp, the majority of hits are from sites offering information to aquarium breeders and collectors, which is heartbreaking. The appeal is understandable from an aesthetic standpoint, but we would much prefer to observe them happy and free in their natural habitat. We often get the opportunity to spot them tucked away in the reefs while diving Myanmar and Thailand

        Although harlequin shrimp may have questionable dietary practices, we still find them to be magnificent little critters and look forward to every chance to meet them under the seas.

HARLEQUIN SHRIMP CLASSIFICATION

Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Arthropoda
Subphylum: Crustacea
Class: Malacostraca
Order: Decapoda
Infraorder: Caridea
Family: Hymenoceridae
Genus: Hymenocera
Species: Hymenocera Picta and Hymenocera Elegant
Two elegant Hymenocera
For the moment Myanmar's borders remain shut and all our cruises this season are planned to be in Thailand.
​We are hoping for a reopening before next season...
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How to maintain your dive gear?

17/7/2020

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Advice to keep your gear in top shape

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​Once you invest in dive gear, you want it to last as long as possible. To do this, a vigilant maintenance ritual is essential! Here are some recommended steps:
1. Rinse it immediately after use
 
This is the first very important step. After a dive, salt or chlorine could leave some harmful residues on your gear. Rinse it in FRESH water as soon as you dismantle your kit to clear the dirt and reduce the risk of corrosion. 
Rince your dive gear directly after use
Photo: Dive Training magazine
2. Dry it properly away from the sun
 Thoroughly dry out your gear after a day's diving. You can use a towel for the small parts (like first stage) and then hang it in an open air area. Enclosed places will make your gear smelly, humid and can also promote the growth of mould. It is very important to keep it away from the sun while drying because sun can damage some materials.
Dry your dive gear properly away from the sun
3. Store it for the next time
 
Try to find a shaded dry and fresh room to protect your gear from humidity, sun and overheating. If you have no choice but to store it in a closed bin or other space with restricted air flow, consider using silica gel packets or even an open box of baking soda to absorb extra moisture.
Store your dive gear for the next time

How to clean every piece of your Equipment?


MASK
 
It is really important to prepare well your mask before the dive so that it won't get foggy. First you need it to be very clean.
Fresh from the manufacturing line, a new mask often has a residual layer or silicone covering the tempered glass which will create lots of fog during a dive. There are many methods to treat a mask including soaking it overnight in cola, using toothpaste on the inside and burning it with a lighter.
In my opinion the best way to remove that pesky extra silicone is to first burn it so that the lenses turn black. Be careful to stay away from the edges of the lenses with the flame as you can damage the seal between the glass and the frame. Rinse off the soot and then thoroughly massage toothpaste onto the inside of the lens and let it dry all night. The day after wash it with dish soap and rinse. You might need to repeat the process few times before it is efficient. Patience !
Also when you soap up your mask before your dive, be sure not to rinse all the soap out. You don't want it to burn your eyes but that little soapy film will prevent fogging quite efficiently.
REGULATOR
 
Before doing anything, read the manual for specific procedure. When you take your regulator of from the tank, clean and dry the first stage tank connection to make sure there is no dust or water on it. Blow dry the dust cap and screw it firmly back in place. Rinse the entire regulator in fresh water as soon as possible after use. Be careful not to press the purge button of the 2nd stage, which might open the valve and make some water seep into the 1st stage. The best is to dunk the second stages into  fresh water, paying special attention the the mothpice and any connections. Remove the hose protectors from their place to rinse the length of hose hidden by this rubber sleeve. 
Dry it away from the sun without twisting hoses.
Have your regulator professionally serviced in an authorized dive center every 2 years, or according to the manufacturer's directions.
Be sure to always have this technical maintenance carried out by a trained licensed professional. This piece of equipment keeps you alive underwater, so please be responsible with making sure it is up the the precious task.
BCD
 
Be sure to check your BCD before every dive. Are the releases well clipped? Is your cylinder band secure and safety strap in place? Does you LPI function correctly with both power and manual inflators? Does the LPI's direct system deflator button work well? Do the emergency dump valves quickly and effortlessly deflate the BCD?
After the dive give your BCD a bath on the inside and out as prolonged exposure to salt water can degrade the inner bladder as well as the seems and stitches. Rinse the outside with fresh water then partially inflate and dump out any extra seawater that may have gotten trapped inside. Be sure to use your emergency dump valves to drain the water as salt water can damage the direct system on the LPI very quickly. Now pour some fresh water into the BCD through the manual inflate mouthpiece to rinse the inside. have a little dance with your BCD as you turn is upside down and in all directions to move the fresh water to every corner of the bladder. Now hold it as high as you can with your emergency dump valve at the lowest point of the jacket and purge the water through the dump valve. Partially inflate and let it dry away from direct sunlight in an open air place. Store it in a dry room.
EXPOSURE SUIT
 
After every use, rinse your exposure suit inside and out in freshwater. If you have access to warm water, this will help dilute salt and chlorine more readily and flush residues out of the fabric. 
Lubricate the zippers with Vaseline or silicone lubricant. Make sure to coat the length of the zipper by doing up and undoing the zipper several times after greasing it up. This can also help remove any small particles that can jam it up and damage it.
Dry and store it on proper hangers, large enough to prevent lasting folds in your suit. I always prefer to fold my wetsuit in half over the hanger instead of placing the hanger's arm's in the shoulders like you would with a coat. When the suit is wet it is quite heavy so hanging it the way you would hang up a shirt can actually stretch out the shoulders over time, deforming the upper half of the garment.
You can even get hangers specific for diving equipment with little hooks and clips designed for hoods, gloves and other accessories.
KNIFE 
 
Even your blade is stainless steel, you need to rinse it properly after diving. Take it out of its protective sheath and if you can, open it completely. This will allow the blade to dry and prevent rusting and also can free small salt particles from the joints.
Dry it properly with a towel and store it in it’s case again so you don't risk damaging your gear or yourself. 
FLASH LIGHTS
 
Rinse it with fresh water as soon as you can, so salt water doesn’t have time to dry on it and leave marks. Press the ON/OFF button few times underwater to remove any dust or salt particles and make sure the button doesn't jam up in either position. 
Remove it from the water and dry it on the outside. Make sure your hands aren't wet and to open it gently so any lingering water doesn't get inside. Remove, dry and clean all the joints and lubricate the o-rings and threads. Put it back together and store the battery and the torch separately in a dry area away from heat.
Get ready for the dive !
How to maintain your dive gear
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What Do You Know About the Tiger Tail Seahorse?

8/7/2020

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All about tiger tail Seahorse

All about tiger tail Seahorse

Scientific name : 
​
Hippocampus Comes

Along with other types of seahorse, pipefish and seadragons, the tiger tail seahorse belongs to the Syngathidae family. They can grow up to 18.7 cm and have a lifespan of 1-5 years.
They can sport different patterns but the most commonly seen is alternating yellow and black.
Tiger tail seahorse
Tiger tail seahorse

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  • When & Where
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    • Destinations >
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        • The essential Underwater photo Guide to diving Thailand
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  • ABOUT
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