Category: Diving Burma/Myanmar

Trip report: 25th April – 3rd May 2026 - Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks

19/5/2026

Sunset over Black Rock in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar, during a Smiling Seahorse liveaboard diving trip.

Some trips end quietly. Others feel like the ocean emptying one last treasure chest before the season closes.
Our final expedition of the 2025–2026 season carried us once again from Ranong into the wild islands of the Mergui Archipelago and out toward the remote Burma Banks. Calm seas, glowing sunsets and reefs overflowing with life accompanied us through a week where every dive seemed to reveal something different: hunting pelagics, curious macro life, frogfish, sharks, pipefish and endless nudibranch encounters hidden among the corals. It felt like the Andaman Sea had decided to offer one final encore before the monsoon silence returned.

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

After clearing Thai immigration in Ranong and Burmese formalities in Kawthaung, we sailed north into the maze of islands forming the Mergui Archipelago. Jungle-covered silhouettes slowly replaced the mainland while guests settled into the rhythm of liveaboard life, preparing cameras and comparing fish books before the first dives of the trip.

Vibrant orange sunset over the Andaman Sea horizon during a liveaboard diving trip to South Twin and North Twin islands, Myanmar.

One of many spectacular sunsets in the Mergui Archipelago.

Day 2 – South Twin, Boulder Rock & North Twin

Our first dive at South Twin Rock Head offered an easy and colourful introduction to the archipelago. Longnose emperors cruised over the reef together with schools of rainbow runners, yellowback fusiliers and neon fusiliers. Along the walls, macro life was already everywhere: spotted Hypselodoris, Chromodoris geometrica, Chromodoris annulata, creamy chromodoris, twin chromodoris, Indian Caloria and bicolour flabellina covered the reef while peacock mantis shrimps watched cautiously from their burrows. McCosker’s flasher wrasses darted above the rubble slopes while powder-blue surgeonfish and moon wrasse moved constantly through the current.

Macro photography of a Girdled Glossodoris nudibranch on a reef at Boulder Rock, Myanmar.

The intricate patterns of a Girdled Glossodoris spotted at Boulder Rock.

A group of colorful Wrasse swimming over a vibrant coral reef in the Mergui Archipelago.

Vibrant reef fish dart among the corals during our final expedition of the season.

At Boulder Rock, the scenery shifted into dramatic boulders and darker overhangs filled with life. A devil scorpionfish rested motionless between sponges while porcelain crabs and peacock-tail anemone shrimps decorated the cracks. Schools of fusiliers streamed above the reef while giant trevallies occasionally passed through the blue. Chromodoris geometrica and Indian Caloria continued the nudibranch parade across the rocks.

A well-camouflaged Devil Scorpionfish resting among sponges and rocks in Myanmar's Andaman Sea.

Can you spot the Devil Scorpionfish blending perfectly into the dramatic overhangs at Boulder Rock?

A large school of yellow fusiliers streaming over rocky reef formations at a Myanmar dive site.

Schools of fusiliers provide constant motion above the dramatic boulders of the Mergui Archipelago.

North Twin Reef delivered both schooling fish and pelagic surprises. Batfish hovered calmly in formation while schools of fusiliers and surgeonfish drifted above the reef. An eagle ray appeared suddenly out of the blue together with African pompano cruising past the divers. Clown triggerfish, mullet fish and juvenile blackspotted sea cucumbers added life to the shallows, while ornate sapsucking slugs, blue dragons, spotted Hypselodoris and Chromodoris annulata covered the reef in colour.

Vibrant pink soft coral surrounded by a large school of yellow snapper on a rocky reef in North Twin Bay, Mergui Archipelago.

The reefs of North Twin Bay come alive with vibrant soft corals and swarming schools of fish during our Myanmar liveaboard adventure.

A group of four scuba divers giving okay and peace signs while underwater in the clear blue waters of the Andaman Sea with The Smiling Seahorse.

Our guests enjoying the final dives of the 2025–2026 season in the pristine Mergui Archipelago.

The night dive in North Twin Bay brought an entirely different atmosphere. Blunt decorator crabs, pygmy squid, squat lobsters, juvenile lobsters and several squids emerged after dark. Harlequin shrimps hid beneath rubble while octopus hunted across the sand beside batfish and filefish sleeping in the reef. A red abalone glowed under torchlight while flatworms and Jebb flatworms drifted slowly across the substrate.

Day 3 – Black Rock

We spent the full day diving Black Rock, and the site once again reminded us why it remains one of Burma’s most legendary offshore pinnacles. Schools of bigeye jacks and round batfish circled endlessly around the rock while great barracuda, African pompano and Spanish mackerel patrolled the blue water. Dogtooth tuna occasionally appeared in the distance while yellowback fusiliers and lunar fusiliers formed dense silver rivers around the reef.

A wide shot of Black Rock in the middle of the blue Andaman Sea during a Myanmar liveaboard cruise.

Approaching the remote and wild dive sites of the Mergui Archipelago, like Black Rock, where isolated rocky islands hide incredible underwater treasures.

: A large school of silver Bigeye Trevally (Jackfish) swimming through deep blue water at a dive site in Myanmar.

Underwater action: A massive school of trevallies passes through the blue, a common and thrilling sight for divers in the Mergui Archipelago.

Closer to the rocks, the macro life was just as spectacular. Orange-spotted pipefish and network pipefish hovered carefully between soft corals while juvenile oriental sweetlips danced along the walls. Peacock mantis shrimps, peacock-tail anemone shrimps, marbled shrimps and tapestry shrimps carrying eggs filled the cracks. A yellow warty frogfish remained perfectly camouflaged among the sponges while white devil scorpionfish rested motionless nearby.

Close-up macro photography of a Marbled Shrimp (Saron marmoratus) perched on orange coral during a dive in the Mergui Archipelago.

The intricate details of a Saron Shrimp, one of the many fascinating crustaceans found among the corals of the Andaman Sea.

A well-camouflaged yellow frogfish nestled among pink soft corals and sea stars as a scuba diver swims in the background at a Mergui Archipelago dive site.

Can you spot the master of camouflage? A bright yellow frogfish hides in plain sight among the vibrant soft corals during our final Myanmar expedition.

The nudibranch diversity was extraordinary: Chromodoris geometrica, Chromodoris annulata, Chromodoris reticulata, Bornella anguilla, bicolour flabellina and Dendrodoris lumpy appeared throughout the dives. Juvenile yellow boxfish drifted shyly around the reef while tiger cowries covered the walls.
One unforgettable moment came when a large female octopus was seen digging a nest to prepare for egg laying, carefully moving sand and rubble while guarding her future nursery. Nearby, another pair of octopuses were observed mating among the rocks.

Macro shot of a Bornella anguilla nudibranch crawling on a hydroid at a Myanmar dive site.

Adding to our nudibranch count: The unique Bornella anguilla was just one of the extraordinary species spotted during our dives.

A large octopus camouflaged against the rocks and coral in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.

An unforgettable encounter: We observed an octopus carefully preparing a nest, a rare and beautiful moment of natural behavior in the wild.

As the sun dropped lower, Black Rock transformed once more. Boxer shrimps carrying eggs, straight-face swimming crabs and squat shrimps became increasingly active while schools of batfish and jacks continued circling the pinnacle into dusk.

The silhouette of the famous Black Rock dive site at sunset, a premier remote diving destination in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.

A golden farewell to Black Rock: Watching the sun set over Myanmar’s most legendary dive site during our final liveaboard expedition of the season.

Day 4 – Shark Cave, Square Rock & Submarine

At Shark Cave, tomato clownfish defended their anemones while anemone crabs and squat shrimps filled the reef crevices. A dead banded sea krait rested inside the cave entrance, creating an unusual and slightly eerie sight. Siboga cuthona, Hypselodoris, spotted Hypselodoris, Chromodoris annulata and Hypselodoris bollandi decorated the reef while blue dragons drifted delicately across the substrate. A large fimbriated moray eel peered from the shadows beneath schools of fusiliers and snapper.

Macro photo of a colorful nudibranch with purple and orange markings on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago.

A splash of neon: This specimen was one of many vibrant nudibranchs discovered during our dives at Square Rock.

two tiny white porcelain crabs camouflaged on a bright green plate coral surrounded by black damselfish at the Square Rock dive site, Myanmar.

A hidden gem at Square Rock: These delicate porcelain crabs find a perfect home on a vibrant green plate coral.

Square Rock revealed one of the highlights of the day: a rare white seahorse perfectly camouflaged among soft corals. Nearby, Glossodoris cincta guarded its eggs while boxer shrimps carrying eggs hid beneath ledges. Spotted Hypselodoris, Dendronotus sp.2 and a Persian carpet flatworm added even more colour to the reef. One curious reminder of the region’s past appeared underwater as unexploded dynamite still resting on the seafloor.

Submarine was bursting with fish life. Schools of yellow snapper, fusiliers, white tongue jacks, golden jacks and trevallies filled the water column while cuttlefish were observed kissing and changing colours dramatically. Orange-spotted pipefish, rust-spotted crabs, red hairy crabs and anemone crabs hid among the coral formations while the reef pulsed with movement from every direction.

In the afternoon, we stepped ashore for a visit to the small island temple near Shark Cave, climbing the familiar path through the jungle to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and panoramic views over the surrounding islands before returning on board for the night dive.

A rare white and brown seahorse perfectly camouflaged against red soft corals at Square Rock, Myanmar.

A tiny seahorse expertly found hiding among the soft corals of Square Rock.

Macro photography of an Orange-spotted Pipefish (Corythoichthys ocellatus) camouflaged against pink coralline algae during a night dive at Shark Cave, Myanmar.

A master of camouflage: This orange-spotted pipefish was a fantastic find during our final macro-focused night dive at Shark Cave.

A Porcelain Anemone Crab (Neopetrolisthes maculatus) peeking out from the tentacles of its host anemone in the Andaman Sea.

A shy resident: A porcelain crab seeks shelter within the stinging tentacles of an anemone during our final night dive of the season.

The night dive back at Shark Cave delivered another excellent macro session. Bornella anguilla and Siboga cuthona appeared again while hermit crabs, anemone hermit crabs and Baba’s crinoid squat lobsters covered the reef. Barracuda hunted in the torch beams while tiger cowries, Ramos murex, curly Chicoreus, rose branch murex and Tapesian horse conchs crawled slowly across the rocks. A fimbriated moray eel hunted openly while Mordilla brocki and Hypselodoris bollandi completed another spectacular night dive.

A silhouette of a rugged rocky island in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar, at sunset with the sun reflecting on the Andaman Sea.

Golden hour in the Mergui Archipelago: The dramatic islands of Southern Myanmar provide a stunning backdrop for our final days at sea.

A traditional golden Burmese pagoda and temple building situated on a lush green hill overlooking the Mergui Archipelago.

Beyond the waves: Exploring the cultural beauty and scenic landscapes of the remote islands in Southern Myanmar.

Day 5 – Burma Banks & Blackwater

The crossing toward the Burma Banks brought calmer seas and wide-open blue water. At Rainbow Bank, nurse sharks rested beneath coral formations while schools of surgeonfish moved continuously across the reef. Roe Bank delivered more shark encounters together with turtles, schools of jacks and large groups of bignose unicornfish, sleek unicornfish and bluespine unicornfish cruising over the sandy plateaus. Honeycomb moray eels hid beneath the bommies while clown triggerfish patrolled the edges of the reef.

A Honeycomb Moray Eel tucked under a colorful coral head during a sunset dive in the Mergui Archipelago.

A Honeycomb Moray Eel peeks out from the reef as day turns to dusk in the Andaman Sea.

A large school of unicornfish swimming over a sandy seabed in the clear blue waters of Myanmar.

Underwater traffic: An impressive school of unicornfish passing by during our final sunset dive of the season.

During the sunset dive, red-spotted guard crabs carrying eggs hid inside coral heads while the last light filtered through massive schools of fusiliers and jacks.

That night, several divers entered the darkness for a blackwater dive. Moray eel larvae, larval anemones, mantis shrimp larvae, siphonophores, squid and driftfish drifted slowly beneath the boat, revealing the strange pelagic world that rises toward the surface after dark.

A juvenile fish seeking shelter under a small translucent jellyfish against a pitch-black background during a blackwater dive.

The strange pelagic world: A juvenile fish hitches a ride on a jellyfish, a classic symbiotic behavior seen during blackwater diving in Myanmar.

A slender, silver larval fish with a long, pointed rostrum drifting in the open ocean during a blackwater dive.

The incredible forms of the deep: This larval billfish is a rare and exciting find during our blackwater expeditions in Myanmar.

A tiny, translucent larval cephalopod with long arms and visible internal organs drifting in the open ocean at night.

Alien encounters: A delicate larval cephalopod captured during our deep-sea blackwater expedition in the Mergui Archipelago.

A translucent, gelatinous eel floating against a black background in the open ocean.

Living glass: A delicate eel caught in the torch beam during a night spent exploring the pelagic zone.

Day 6 – Roe, Coral & Silvertip Bank

Roe Bank continued to produce nurse shark encounters before we moved toward Coral Bank for two dives filled with life. Hawksbill turtles cruised over the reef while honeycomb moray eels rested beneath coral overhangs. Halgerda tessalata and Maldivian sponge snails appeared repeatedly along the reef walls while schools of fusiliers, unicornfish and surgeonfish filled the water column.

A nurse shark resting on the sandy bottom of the reef surrounded by a school of small fish at Roe Bank, Mergui Archipelago.

One of our many nurse shark encounters at Roe Bank—these beautiful residents are a highlight of our dives in the Andaman Sea.

A massive, colorful coral structure covered in orange and pink growth against a bright blue Andaman Sea background.

The reefs of Coral Bank are filled with life, boasting some of the most vibrant coral formations in the region.

At Silvertip Bank during the sunset dive, grey reef sharks appeared cruising through the fading light together with more nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom. Honeycomb moray eels remained a constant presence while Maldivian sponge snails crawled slowly across the reef.

A nurse shark resting peacefully under a large table coral ledge in the Mergui Archipelago.

Finding shelter: A nurse shark takes a nap beneath a massive coral overhang during our expedition through the Banks.

Three scuba divers swimming over a giant, multi-layered hard coral mound on a sandy bottom in Myanmar.

Scale and wonder: Divers explore an enormous coral colony, a testament to the healthy reef systems found in the remote Andaman Sea.

Throughout the day, dolphins could occasionally be heard underwater while diving, their whistles and clicks echoing faintly through the blue water around the Banks.

A dolphin breaking the surface of the blue ocean water in the Mergui Archipelago.

Surface sightings: After hearing their whistles and clicks underwater all day, we were treated to a brief visit by dolphins at the surface.

A circular fisheye lens perspective of a beautiful, spiraling hard coral formation surrounded by a vibrant reef.

A different perspective: The architectural beauty of the Banks' coral reefs captured through a fisheye lens.

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Sea Fan Forest offered calmer conditions but stunning scenery. Large sea fans and soft corals framed red reef lobsters, stonefish and schools of jacks moving through the reef. Rainbow runners, Spanish mackerel and barracuda hunted above the bommies while mating octopuses entertained divers among the rocks. Queen Isabel cowries, thick-edge cowries, juvenile yellow boxfish and bicolour flabellina added colour to the reef while squat shrimps hid inside the sea fans.

A well-camouflaged scorpionfish resting on a rocky reef between vibrant pink and orange soft corals in the Mergui Archipelago.

Hidden in plain sight: A scorpionfish blends perfectly into the colorful backdrop of soft corals during one of our final dives of the season.

A massive school of fusiliers swimming through bright blue water toward the surface in the Andaman Sea, Myanmar.

Surrounded by life: A thick wall of fusiliers creates a mesmerizing silver curtain as we explore the remote reefs of Southern Myanmar.

At Western Rocky’s Eagle Rock, white tongue jacks and yellowfin barracuda hunted through clouds of jellyfish while rainbow runners swept repeatedly through the current.
The Cave night dive revealed another explosion of nocturnal life. Soft coral cowries, sieve cowries, rigid egg cowries and spindle cowries covered the walls while decorator crabs, elbow crabs, marbled shrimps and tapestry shrimps emerged after dark. Skeleton shrimps clung to hydroids beside Chromodoris reticulata and Mordilla brocki while giant moray eels hunted openly through the cave entrance.

A dense school of shimmering glassfish swirling inside a dark underwater cavern in the Mergui Archipelago

Light in the dark: Thousands of glassfish illuminate the entrance of a sea cave during our morning dive.

Macro photograph of a marbled shrimp (Saron marmoratus) with intricate patterns camouflaged among orange sea fans.

Macro magic: The incredible detail of a Saron shrimp hidden within the reef's vibrant fan corals.

Back on board that evening, we also celebrated Franck’s birthday together, adding another warm and memorable moment to an already unforgettable expedition.

Celebrating in style: Back on board, we toasted to Franck’s birthday, making an already unforgettable expedition even more special.

A wide-angle view of a flourishing reef covered in purple and white sea anemones under a bright blue Myanmar sky.

A carpet of life: Exploring the stunning "anemone gardens" that characterize some of the most healthy dive sites in the Andaman Sea.

Day 8 – Western Rocky & BBQ Night

We dedicated the full day to the iconic reefs of Western Rocky, exploring the different moods of the site from morning light to sunset. Around the Islets, schools of yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers and lunar fusiliers streamed over the reef while rainbow runners, giant trevallies and white tongue jacks patrolled the blue. Harlequin shrimps hid carefully beneath rubble, while bluestriped pipefish, cuttlefish, octopuses, blue dragons, Maldivian sponge snails and Chromodoris annulata kept photographers busy between clouds of anthias and surgeonfish. McCosker’s flasher wrasses darted above the reef as porcupinefish and titan triggerfish hovered near the rocks.

A vibrant male Filamented Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus filamentosus) displaying bright yellow, red, and blue colors over a rocky reef.

A flash of brilliance: This male Filamented Flasher Wrasse put on quite a show, darting over the reef with its spectacular colors on full display.

A Pharaoh Cuttlefish (Sepia pharaonis) with intricate skin patterns hovering near a dark rocky crevice in the Mergui Archipelago.

Masters of disguise: We encountered this Pharaoh Cuttlefish showing off its remarkable ability to blend into the shadows of the Cave.

Inside the famous Cave, the atmosphere shifted completely. Giant moray eels watched from dark crevices while anker whip coral shrimps, sponge crabs, skeleton shrimps, marbled shrimps and tapestry shrimps covered the walls and sea fans. Bornella anguilla, creamy chromodoris, Chromodoris geometrica, rigid dermatobranchus and Glossodoris cincta with eggs added layers of colour to the dive. Outside the cave entrance, juvenile oriental sweetlips and juvenile emperor angelfish sheltered among the boulders while schools of dogtooth tuna moved through the blue water beyond the reef.

A pair of colorful Harlequin Shrimps (Hymenocera picta) with blue and cream patterns resting on a rocky reef at Eagle Rock, Myanmar.

Double trouble: Finding a pair of Harlequin Shrimps is always a highlight, especially in the vibrant macro environment of Eagle Rock.

A tiny, translucent Whip Coral Shrimp (Pontonides ankeri) perfectly camouflaged among the polyps of a sea whip against a black background.

Master of disguise: A delicate whip coral shrimp hides in plain sight during our exploration of the Mergui Archipelago's deep reefs.

At Eagle Rock, the current brought even more action. Spanish mackerel and dogtooth tuna hunted above dense schools of fusiliers while barracudas cruised along the drop-off. Porcelain crabs, mantis shrimps, bicolour flabellina and Maldivian sponge snails covered the reef, and one unforgettable moment came as sergeant majors aggressively chased a moon wrasse away from their eggs.

The final sunset dive around the Cave and surrounding reef delivered a perfect closing atmosphere for the day. Slipper lobsters emerged from cracks while octopuses moved across the reef under fading light. Cadlinella ornatissima, soft coral cowries, spindle cowries, sieve cowries and Mordilla brocki appeared one after another as giant moray eels hunted through the darkness. Above us, schools of dogtooth tuna and Spanish mackerel continued their patrols as the last light disappeared over the Andaman Sea.

A close-up of a Tiger Cowrie (Cypraea tigris) with its dark, patterned mantle fully extended, covering its shell while resting on a reef.

A rare look: The intricate, spiked mantle of a Tiger Cowrie completely transformed its appearance during one of our evening sessions.

A bright red Emperor Shrimp (Periclimenes imperator) camouflaged against the red and white surface of a granulated sea star.

Perfect symbiosis: A vibrant Emperor Shrimp hitches a ride on a sea star, a classic macro find in the Mergui Archipelago.

Back on board, the evening turned festive with our traditional BBQ night on the upper deck. Under a calm sky filled with stars, everyone gathered to share food, stories and favourite memories from the trip while music drifted across the boat. What started as a relaxed dinner slowly transformed into a lively party, with guests and crew dancing together late into the evening somewhere between the reefs of Western Rocky and the open waters of the Andaman Sea.

A diverse group of happy scuba divers cheering with drinks during a BBQ night on the deck of The Smiling Seahorse liveaboard.

To an unforgettable season! Our guests celebrate the final night of the expedition with a traditional BBQ and a toast under the stars.

Two scuba divers, one with a professional camera rig, hovering over a vibrant reef covered in pink soft corals in the Mergui Archipelago.

Capturing the colors of Myanmar: Divers explore the lush soft coral gardens that make the Andaman Sea a world-class photography destination.

Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Return to Ranong

Our final dive of the trip took place at Dendro’s Peak, a colourful reef alive with both schooling fish and macro treasures. Schools of fusiliers swirled around the pinnacle together with rainbow runners, giant trevallies and barracudas while cuttlefish hovered calmly above the reef. Hidden among the corals were tiger cowries, mole cowries and several beautiful bicolour flabellina, while surgeonfish, wrasses and butterflyfish covered the reef in constant movement.

A tiny, highly camouflaged Allied Cowrie (Ovulidae) matching the color and texture of its host orange sea fan.

Invisible to the untrained eye: This Cowrie is a perfect example of the incredible mimicry found on the reefs of Myanmar.

A long, slender Trumpetfish (Aulostomus chinensis) hovering vertically among bright orange gorgonian sea fans to blend in.

A master of stealth: We spotted this Trumpetfish using the vibrant sea fans at the Banks to hide while waiting for its next meal.

After surfacing for the last time, the Smiling Seahorse began the journey back toward Kawthaung and Ranong. Equipment was slowly rinsed and packed away while guests exchanged photos, favourite moments and stories from the week. From the reefs of the Mergui Archipelago to the shark-filled Burma Banks and the caves of Western Rocky, the trip once again reminded us how wild and diverse these waters remain.

Another season closed, another chapter written in the currents of the Andaman Sea… until the next departure.

A dramatic and colorful sunset over the Andaman Sea with layers of orange, yellow, and deep purple clouds.

The perfect ending to a spectacular season: A breathtaking sunset over the Mergui Archipelago on our final evening at sea.

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Trip report | 10th - 18th March 2026 | Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks

20/3/2026

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A silhouetted rocky island topped with a single tree stands in the ocean against a pale sunset sky. A banner at the bottom reads

This expedition brought together a wonderfully international group of divers from France, Switzerland, Germany, Romania, the USA, Singapore and Burma, including a very special guest, Thanda Ko Gyi, founder of the Myanmar Ocean Project and the database guru in Myanmar for Mantas both for Manta Trust and Marine Megfauna fondations. Beside education and ghost net removal, her work focuses on manta ray research, identification and conservation in Myanmar waters, adding a meaningful scientific dimension to our journey through one of Southeast Asia’s last true diving frontiers.
From the remote islands of the Mergui Archipelago to the vast offshore plateaus of the Burma Banks, the week unfolded as a perfect balance between encounters with large pelagics and an almost overwhelming richness of macro life.

Scenic aerial view of a turquoise bay and white sand beach in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar, surrounded by lush tropical rainforest.

Tropical island scenery in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

After clearing Thai immigration at Badin Pier in Ranong, we welcomed our guests on board before making a smooth crossing to Kawthung for Burmese formalities. Soon after, the Smiling Seahorse headed north into the Mergui Archipelago, where dense jungle-covered islands, quiet anchorages and untouched reefs set the tone for the days ahead.

The MV Smiling Seahorse liveaboard boat cruising on calm blue waters under a bright sky, offering scuba diving trips in Thailand and Myanmar.

The luxurious dive liveaboard MV Smiling Seahorse in the Andaman Sea

A vibrant orange and pink sunset over the horizon of the Andaman Sea during a Myanmar liveaboard diving cruise.

Stunning Andaman Sea sunset during a Myanmar dive safari

Day 2 – High Rock

Our first immersion at High Rock served as a gentle and colourful introduction to the trip, allowing everyone to settle into the rhythm of diving in Burma.
The reef immediately revealed its macro treasures: long-tail sea hare slugs grazing on the rock, dark margin glossodoris, orange-spotted pipefish weaving through the reef and delicate yellow wentletrap snails (Epitonium billeanum). Flounders rested motionless on sandy patches while cowfish drifted slowly in the current.

Moray eels were already part of the scenery, with white-eye moray eels and giant moray eels peering from crevices, while schools of juvenile yellowback fusiliers flickered above the reef. In the blue, chevron barracudas held their formation, hinting at the bigger action to come.
The rest of the day unfolded on board with an inspiring presentation by Thanda, sharing insights into manta identification and behaviour, setting the stage for what would become one of the trip’s defining themes.

A close-up of a White Eye Moray Eel peeking out from a hard coral reef in the Mergui Archipelago.

Macro photography of a White Eye Moray Eel in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave

Rare Geographic Sea Hare found while scuba diving Black Rock | Thierry Lagrave

Day 3 & 4 – Black Rock

Black Rock delivered its usual blend of raw energy and intricate detail, a place where the blue and the reef constantly compete for attention.
In the open water, oceanic manta rays appeared gracefully, circling above the pinnacle as if inspecting each diver. Thanks to Thanda’s expertise, we were able to identify six different individual manta rays over the course of our dives — a truly special highlight that added a scientific dimension to these encounters.

Around them, dense formations of chevron and pickhandle barracuda stretched into the distance, while blacktip trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies and bigeye trevallies surged through schools of fish in coordinated bursts. Dogtooth tuna and longnose emperors cut through the water column, while massive schools of rabbitfish hovered over the reef.

A giant Oceanic Manta Ray gliding over a colorful soft coral reef at Black Rock in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.

Majestic Manta Ray encounter while diving in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave

An Oceanic Manta Ray swimming near the surface with several remoras attached, captured during a Smiling Seahorse liveaboard trip.

Oceanic Manta Ray with remoras at a cleaning station | Thierry Lagrave

giant Oceanic Manta Ray swimming past vibrant purple and pink soft corals at Black Rock dive site in the Mergui Archipelago.

Incredible visibility for Manta Ray diving at Black Rock | Thierry Lagrave

Below the action, the reef itself was just as alive. Powder-blue surgeonfish and velvet surgeonfish grazed continuously, while giant moray eels, fimbriated morays, leopard morays and yellow-edged moray eels filled every crack and overhang. Batfish lingered calmly in sheltered zones, seemingly unfazed by the surrounding chaos. Schools of neon fusiliers, scissortail fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers formed thick, shifting clouds wrapping around the rock.

A Goniobranchus geminus nudibranch (twin sea slug) on a vibrant coral reef surrounded by anemones in the Mergui Archipelago.

Vibrant reef biodiversity and nudibranchs in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave

And then there was the macro.
Black Rock revealed an almost overwhelming diversity: Bornella anguilla, Goniobranchus geometrica, Goniobranchus geminus, Goniobranchus leopardus, Goniobranchus annulata, Risbecia pulchella, gloomy Tamja, white-bump sapsucking slugs, golden wentletrap snails and tiger cowries.

A macro photography shot of a purple and white Goniobranchus geometricus nudibranch on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago.

Discover nudibranches like Gonionbranchus Geometrius on a macro diving safari | Thierry Lagrave

Close-up of a white and yellow spotted Goniobranchus annulatus nudibranch, a highlight for underwater photographers in Myanmar.

Exceptional macro photography opportunities in Myanmar's Mergui Archipelago | Thierry Lagrave

Peacock-tail anemone shrimps, squat shrimps, anemone crabs and peacock mantis shrimps animated the reef, while pharaoh cuttlefish hovered just above the substrate. Stonefish blended perfectly into the rocks and rare sightings of yellow and red clown frogfish added excitement.

We also encountered Dendrodoris denisoni, orangutan crabs, reef crabs, honeycomb moray eels and Doriprismatica atromarginata. The tiny yet fascinating Trinchesia sibogae showcased its cerata, reminding us of the incredible defensive adaptations of nudibranchs, storing stinging cells from their prey.

A vibrant Trinchesia sibogae nudibranch with bright purple and orange cerata on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago.

Colorful sea slugs of the Andaman Sea | Thierry Lagrave

A high-detail macro shot of a Dendrodoris denisoni nudibranch, showing its unique blue spots and textured body.

Searching for rare macro critters in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave

Sunset brought a different atmosphere. Under torchlight, anemone fish hermit crabs, sea urchin crabs, broadclub cuttlefish and pygmy squids emerged, transforming Black Rock into a different world.

A camouflaged Scorpionfish resting among vibrant yellow cup corals on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago.

Master of camouflage: Scorpionfish on a Myanmar reef | Thierry Lagrave

wo bright orange Ocellaris clownfish (Anemonefish) nestled in a purple sea anemone during a dive in the Andaman Sea.

Iconic Anemonefish in the pristine Mergui Archipelago | Thierry Lagrave

A tiny, translucent Pygmy Squid hovering near a red gorgonian sea fan, showcasing the incredible macro life found on a Smiling Seahorse cruise.

Tiny Pygmy Squid: a macro photography highlight

Day 5 – Three Islets & Crossing to the Burma Banks

At Square rock, tigertail seahorses including juveniles clung delicately to the whip coral, while tiger cowries and their eggs decorated the substrate. Schools of yellowtail barracuda passed by as Cuthona sibogae, Hypselodoris decorata and blue dragons brought colour to the reef. Orange-spotted pipefish and cleaner pipefish hovered above the sand while scorpionfish and moray eels remained perfectly camouflaged.

A dark-phase Tiger Tail Seahorse (Hippocampus comes) clinging to an orange sea fan during a dive in the Mergui Archipelago.

Rare Tiger Tail Seahorse sightings in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave

A bright yellow Tiger Tail Seahorse camouflaged against a rocky reef background in the Andaman Sea.

The signature Tiger Tail Seahorse of the Andaman Sea | Thierry Lagrave

Submarine combined action and detail, with spotted hypselodoris, anemone crabs, stonefish and devil scorpionfish sharing space with bamboo sharks resting under ledges. Schools of juvenile yellowback and scissortail fusiliers mixed with snappers and rainbow runners, while juvenile Koran angelfish and oriental sweetlips added flashes of colour.

A Porcelain Anemone Crab filter-feeding on a hard coral head in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.

Intricate macro life: Anemone Crab on a Myanmar reef | Thierry Lagrave

An Oriental Sweetlips and Copperband Butterflyfish swimming past a massive orange sea fan in the Andaman Sea.

Vibrant coral gardens and reef fish biodiversity

Extreme close-up of a Devil Scorpionfish camouflaged against the reef, showing its textured skin and eye detail.

Incredible reef camouflage: the Devil Scorpionfish | Thierry Lagrave

At Shark Cave, tomato anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish guarded their homes alongside anemone crabs. White-eye and honeycomb moray eels hid within the reef while macro highlights included Nembrotha lineolata, Cuthona sibogae, mouthbrooding cardinalfish, Chromodoris annulata, skeleton shrimp and camouflaged snapping shrimps.

Macro photography of a tiny, translucent Skeleton Shrimp on a hydroid, captured during a Smiling Seahorse dive trip.

Bizarre macro life: Skeleton Shrimp found in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave

Two vibrant orange Tomato Anemonefish (Amphiprion frenatus) swimming above their host sea anemone during a dive in Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago with The Smiling Seahorse.

Vibrant Tomato Anemonefish found on remote Myanmar reefs | Tomato Anemonefish

Our visit to Khyun Pillar Island offered a quiet pause away from the Dive-Eat-Sleep rhythm. Walking through the small Moken village, we experienced a glimpse of a way of life deeply connected to the sea, where tides and seasons shape daily routines. Children played along the beach, longtail boats rested in the shallows, and the surrounding jungle framed the scene with a sense of timelessness. A simple yet meaningful moment that added a human dimension to our journey through this remote Archipelago.

Scenic overlook of Khyun Pillar Island in the Mergui Archipelago, showing a tropical bay with turquoise water and white jasmine flowers in the foreground.

Panoramic view of the remote Khyun Pillar Island in Myanmar

A traditional golden Burmese pagoda (temple) at Khyun Pillar Island against a clear blue sky, a cultural stop on a Myanmar dive liveaboard.

Cultural island excursions during a Myanmar dive cruise

As the sun began to dip, we returned to the water for a night dive rich with life. Blunt decorated crabs, blue eyed rock crabs, cone snails and tiger cowries emerged from hiding, while gorgonian crabs, basket stars and emperor shrimps occupied every corner of the reef. Anemone hermit crabs and squat lobsters moved cautiously between rocks, alongside saw-edged spooner crabs. Sea cucumbers, pencil urchins and sleeping rabbitfish completed the scene, wrapping up the day in a completely different, nocturnal atmosphere.

That evening, we set course toward the remote Burma Banks...

wo Squat Lobsters (Crab Buddies) hiding in a reef crevice in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.

Commensal crustaceans and reef life in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave

A detailed macro shot of a sea snail cowrie displaying its mantle over its shell on a colorful reef during a Smiling Seahorse liveaboard trip.

ascinating macro behavior: Cowrie with mantle extended

Extreme close-up of a Giant Moray Eel with its mouth open, showing sharp teeth and textured skin, a common sight at dive sites in Myanmar.

p close with a Giant Moray Eel at Black Rock | Thierry Lagrave

Day 6 – Burma Banks

Row Bank introduced us immediately to the signature atmosphere of the Banks. Nurse sharks dominated the dives, resting on sandy ledges or gliding slowly past divers. Around them, powder-blue surgeonfish, lined surgeonfish, oriental sweetlips and two-spot butterflyfish filled the reef. Coral groupers and peacock groupers held their territories while cleaner wrasse and sixline wrasse worked tirelessly. Basslets hovered close to the reef face and yellow saddle goatfish sifted through the sand.

A large Nurse Shark swimming low over a rocky reef during a dive in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.

Exciting shark encounters in the Mergui Archipelago | Thierry Lagrave

At Rainbow Bank, the pelagic energy increased. More nurse sharks rested across the plateau while schools of humpback unicornfish and sleek unicornfish moved in formation. Batfish, longnose emperors and large schools of black-and-white snappers mixed with giant one-spot and five-lined snappers. Great barracuda patrolled the edges while honeycomb moray eels filled the reef.

A large school of sleek Unicornfish swimming past a dramatic rock pinnacle in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.

Explore the rich marine biodiversity of the Mergui Archipelago on a dive cruise.

A solitary Great Barracuda patrolling over a healthy soft coral reef in the Andaman Sea.

Encounter apex predators while diving the pristine reefs of the Burma Banks.

Blackwater dives added a completely different dimension: sea angels mating, crab zoea larvae drifting, larval sleeper lobsters, flying fish larvae, eel larvae, salps, eternal jellyfish and juvenile female paper nautilus drifting like tiny living sculptures.

A transparent larval eel drifting in the open ocean at night, captured during a specialized blackwater dive in Myanmar.

Discover alien-like creatures with our signature Myanmar blackwater diving expeditions. | Thierry Lagrave

A stunning macro photo of a juvenile Flying Fish with expanded fins against a pitch-black background during a blackwater drift.

Award-winning macro photography opportunities on a blackwater dive in Myanmar. | Thierry Lagrave

Rare macro photography of two translucent Sea Angels mating during a blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.

Rare marine life behavior: Mating Sea Angels on a Myanmar blackwater drift. | Thierry Lagrave

A tiny Eternal Jellyfish (Turritopsis dohrnii) with long stinging tentacles glowing against a black background during a blackwater dive in Myanmar.

Witness the immortal Eternal Jellyfish on a Myanmar blackwater dive | Thierry Lagrave

A rare Female Paper Nautilus (Argonaut) drifting in the open ocean during a blackwater diving expedition in the Andaman Sea.

Rare Paper Nautilus encounter during a blackwater dive | Thierry Lagrave

Day 7 – Burma Banks

Coral Bank delivered one of the most intense sequences of the banks for most of our divers. Nurse sharks swam directly through the group, while a massive mangrove whip ray lifted off from the reef and glided effortlessly past divers. Grey reef sharks appeared in the blue, replacing the nurse sharks as the dominant presence. Giant barracuda, large tuna, a hawksbill turtle, and huge schools of trevallies, snappers, fusiliers, parrotfish and surgeonfish surrounded us in every direction.

A Hawksbill sea turtle feeding on a rocky reef with scuba divers in the background during a Smiling Seahorse liveaboard trip in Myanmar.

Sustainable dive tourism: Passive Hawksbill Turtle encounter in Myanmar

A massive school of Big Eye Trevally (jacks) swimming in clear blue water with sunbeams piercing the surface in the Mergui Archipelago.

Incredible fish biomass and schooling Trevally in the Andaman Sea | School of Big Eye Trevally

At Silvertip Bank, the action continued with nurse sharks and an abundance of reef life: scalefin anthias, redbar anthias, coral groupers, titan triggerfish, bird wrasse, raccoon butterflyfish, regal angelfish and blue-spined unicornfish moving across the reef.

During our navigation between dive sites, we were joined by a playful pod of dolphins riding the bow wave, effortlessly gliding alongside the boat and occasionally darting ahead before looping back again. One of those simple yet unforgettable moments that perfectly captures life at sea.

Three wild dolphins swimming in the bow wake of The Smiling Seahorse liveaboard in the deep blue waters of the Andaman Sea.

Magical wildlife encounters: Dolphins bow-riding during a Myanmar dive safari.

Blackwater dives revealed yet more pelagic wonders: barracuda larvae, flying fish, mantis shrimp larvae, shrimp larvae, dragonfish, glowing pyrosomes and drifting pencil squid completing the surreal night scene.

A tiny, translucent juvenile Great Barracuda drifting in the open ocean during a blackwater diving trip in Myanmar with The Smiling Seahorse.

High-detail macro photography of a juvenile Barracuda in blackwater | Thierry Lagrave

A glowing bioluminescent Pyrosome colonial tunicate with small juvenile fish hitching a ride, captured during a blackwater drift in the Andaman Sea.

Rare bioluminescent Pyrosome encounters in the Andaman Sea | Thierry Lagrave

A small juvenile fish seeking protection inside the transparent body of a Comb Jelly (Ctenophore) during a blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago.

Unique marine life symbiosis: Juvenile fish sheltered in a Comb Jelly | Thierry Lagrave

A small Pencil Squid with shimmering skin captured during a night blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.

Incredible cephalopod encounters: Pencil Squid in blackwater | Thierry Lagrave

A transparent larval Dragon Fish with unique elongated features drifting in the open ocean during a blackwater safari.

Rare deep-sea larval Dragon Fish found in Myanmar | Thierry Lagrave

Day 8 – Seafan Forest & Western Rocky

Seafan Forest offered a calmer but still beautiful dive, where large purple sea fans and soft coral trees swayed gently in the current. Stonefish rested perfectly camouflaged among the reef, while schools of yellowback fusiliers and neon fusiliers drifted past. Coral groupers and peacock groupers hovered near the reef, joined by powder-blue surgeonfish, Indian sailfin tang and clouds of anthias adding colour to the scene.

A perfectly camouflaged Reef Stonefish hiding among pink soft corals and orange cup corals on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago.

Expertly camouflaged Stonefish on a healthy Myanmar reef

A giant orange gorgonian sea fan surrounded by pink soft corals and a school of small reef fish in the Andaman Sea.

Discover the stunning seafan forests of Western Rocky

A vibrant school of blue and yellow Neon Fusiliers swimming over a hard coral reef in the crystal clear waters of Myanmar.

Experience incredible fish action and vibrant coral reefs in the Mergui Archipelago.

At Western Rocky, the dives brought back a mix of macro and schooling fish, creating a perfect balance to end the trip. Inside the cave, a stonefish guarded the exit while giant moray eels watched from the shadows. Outside, ghostpipefish hovered near the islets and blue dragons and Chromodoris annulata added delicate splashes of colour to the reef.

Schools of fusiliers — including yellowback, twin stripe and neon fusiliers — mixed with giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies and passing barracuda circling the formations. Lionfish, scorpionfish and titan triggerfish filled the reef, while cleaner shrimps and squat shrimps animated the cracks, bringing the macro world back into focus.

A white Doriprismatica atromarginata nudibranch with a distinct black border crawling on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago.

Macro critter hunting: the elegant Black-Margined Nudibranch | Thierry Lagrave

A macro photography shot of a tiny Porcelain Crab hiding under a rocky ledge on a vibrant Myanmar dive site.

Exceptional macro photography details on a Myanmar dive safari | Thierry Lagrave

A large Titan Triggerfish swimming through a massive school of glassfish in the deep blue waters of the Andaman Sea.

Witness the incredible marine biomass of the Mergui Archipelago on a luxury liveaboard cruise.

As the evening started, under a calm, star-filled sky, we gathered on the upper deck for our traditional BBQ.

Stories from the trip flowed naturally between us — manta encounters at Black Rock, close passes with sharks on the Banks, and the countless macro discoveries that had kept everyone’s eyes glued to the reef. Laughter, shared moments and quiet reflections blended together, as plates filled and emptied and glasses were raised one last time.

Manta Ray at Black Rock | Camille Rovillain

As the evening unfolded, the mood shifted from relaxed to celebratory. Music floated through the air and before long, the upper deck turned into an open-air dance floor. Barefoot under the stars, surrounded by the ocean, the night carried on with energy, laughter and dancing — the perfect way to celebrate a week that had delivered both unforgettable big encounters and the smallest hidden wonders.

It was more than just a dinner; it became a true celebration of the journey we had shared — from the vast blue of the Burma Banks to the intricate beauty of the reefs — a perfect closing chapter before returning to shore.

Andaman Sea Scuba Diving Liveaboard Myanmar

A golden tropical sunset over a silhouetted island limestone karst in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar, during a dive cruise.

Unforgettable tropical sunsets over the Mergui Archipelago

A delicious gourmet BBQ dinner spread featuring grilled meats and corn on the cob served aboard The Smiling Seahorse liveaboard.

Fresh gourmet dining and BBQ nights on a Myanmar liveaboard cruise

Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell

The final dive at Dendro’s Peak wrapped up the trip with a blend of everything we had experienced. Nudibranchs decorated the reef while fimbriated moray eels peered from crevices. Batfish hovered in the current and trevallies passed through the blue.

A bright yellow Giant Frogfish camouflaged on a rocky reef in the Mergui Archipelago, a prize find for underwater photographers in Myanmar.

Rare macro sightings: A Giant Frogfish in the Mergui Archipelago | Thanda Ko Gyi

Close-up of a small Blenny peering out from its burrow in a coral reef during a dive trip with The Smiling Seahorse.

Discover the charming macro life of the Andaman Sea | Thierry Lagrave

Two tiny spider crabs camouflaged on a red sea fan, illustrating the incredible biodiversity found on Myanmar’s remote reefs.

Hidden treasures: Camouflaged Crabs on a sea fan | Thierry Lagrave

After surfacing, we made our way back to Kawthoung for Burmese immigration, shared a final drink at the Smile Bar and returned to Ranong, closing another unforgettable journey through the Mergui Archipelago and the Burma Banks aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse.

Beyond the incredible encounters — from six individually identified manta rays at Black Rock to the endless diversity of nudibranchs and reef life — this trip also carried a deeper meaning. With Thanda on board, every sighting became part of a bigger picture, contributing to the understanding and protection of marine life in Myanmar waters.

It was a reminder that these remote ecosystems are not only places of beauty and adventure, but also fragile environments that depend on awareness, research and responsible diving. Exploring them is a privilege — helping to protect them is part of the journey.

Until the next tide brings us together again — dive well, dive aware, and see you soon, fellow divers.

A group of four scuba divers posing together in mid-water during a liveaboard trip in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar.

Making memories with new dive buddies in the Andaman Sea

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Trip Report: Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks, 3rd–11th February 2026

14/2/2026

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Liveaboard guests Myanmar Liveaboard scuba diving cruise

Some expeditions meet expectations. Others quietly reset them...
Our latest journey into Myanmar’s far north delivered exactly what these waters are famous for: a beautiful balance between pelagic encounters and intricate macro life. From oceanic mantas and nurse sharks to flamboyant nudibranchs and rare frogfish, this voyage reminded us why the Mergui Archipelago and the Burma Banks remain some of the most rewarding dive destinations in Southeast Asia.

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

With immigration formalities completed in both Thailand and Kawthung, we welcomed our Dive Buddy guests from Israel aboard the Smiling Seahorse and pointed the bow north. Gradually, the busy coastline gave way to scattered islands draped in dense jungle, hinting at the wild underwater world awaiting us.

Western Rocky area surface Myanmar Liveaboard scuba diving cruise

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs

South Twin Reef provided a gentle but vibrant reintroduction to the water. The reef was alive with colour: Chromodoris annulata, Halgerda tessellata, Flabellina rubrolineata, Risbeccia pulchella, Phidiana sp., and dotted the granite boulders like confetti.
Macro life was already hinting at what was to come — a richness that would only intensify as the expedition progressed.

Chromodoris annulata, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Chromodoris annulata | Oren Kidron

Halgerda tessellata | Oren Kidron

Coral Reef Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Coral Reef | Oren Kidron

Peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows while Durban dancing shrimps waved from ledges. Schools of lined surgeonfish and ringtail surgeonfish crossed paths with neon and yellowback fusiliers, while dogtooth tuna patrolled the deeper blue. Giant moray eels observed quietly from their lairs, and cuttlefish drifted over coral bommies. A juvenile scribbled filefish was even spotted feeding on a jellyfish, while egg cowries displayed their striking mantles.

Peacock mantis shrimps, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Peacock mantis shrimp | Oren Kidron

dogtooth tuna

The macro parade continued with Macropharyngodon flasher wrasses darting across the reef.
At North Twin Reef and Bay, more treasures appeared: Halgerda tessellata, orange-tip Flabellina, and schools of five-lined snappers weaving through hard coral formations. Blue-tooth triggerfish, black-lined surgeonfish and pufferfish added movement, while spotted worm sea cucumbers and schooling squids completed the scenery.

Coral Reef | Oren Kidron

orange-tip Flabellina, Andaman Sea liveaboard

orange-tip Flabellina | Oren Kidron

seal faced puffer fish (scientifically known as Arothron nigropunctatus)

The night dive brought theatre. Octopus hunted across the reef, squids flashed past our lights, and jellyfish sheltered tiny fish. Parrotfish and triggerfish slept wedged securely into the rock, their trigger spine locked to prevent predators from pulling them free. Marble shrimps, spider decorator crabs, Elysia marginata, desirable Flabellina and Flabellina exoptata were everywhere, while a fimbriated moray eel slipped silently through the darkness. A spearing mantis shrimp was seen actively hunting, and pygmy squid hovered near the sand.

Elysia marginata, commonly known as the Ornate Elysia

pygmy squid | Oren Kidron

Diver Coral Reef Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Diver and Sea Fans | Oren Kidron

Day 3 – Black Rock

Black Rock once again proved why it is considered one of Myanmar’s signature dive sites.
Currents carried vast schools of blacktip, bluefin, golden and bigeye trevallies alongside rainbow runners and longnose emperors. Barracudas formed shimmering walls in the blue, while eagle rays cruised past and coral, peacock groupers hovered above the reef.

bigeye trevallies, Andaman Sea, Myanmar liveaboard

Bigeye trevallies, Caranx sexfasciatus

Impressive red frogfish

Macro lovers were equally rewarded: Bornella anguilla, Hypselodoris carnea, Cuthona Sibogae and a rare red frogfish, bearded scorpionfish, trumpetfish, rabbitfish and multiple cowries including tiger, money and mole cowries decorated the slopes.

Bornella Anguilla Nudibranch Myanmar Liveaboard

Bornella Anguilla Nudibranch | Oren Kidron

Cuthona Sibogae nudibranch, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Cuthona Sibogae nudibranch | Oren Kidron

Cleaner shrimps and peacock-tail anemone shrimps worked tirelessly at their stations.
The sunset dive turned unforgettable when two oceanic manta rays appeared, circling gracefully over the pinnacle.

oceanic manta rays

Meanwhile, blackwater divers discovered larval seahorses, eel larvae, larval lizardfish, pyrosomes and delicate jellyfish drifting in the darkness, along with larval coral fragments suspended like tiny constellations.

comb jelly blackwater Myanmar liveaboard

Comb Jelly | Oren Kidron

Eel larva

Day 4 – Three Islets & Sailing to the Burma Banks

Shark Cave and the surrounding reefs proved to be outstanding territory for macro enthusiasts. Nudibranch diversity was exceptional, featuring Goniobranchus annulata, Goniobranchus geometrica, Goniobranchus conchyliatus, Thorunna horologia, Hypselodoris maculosa, Glossodoris cincta, Favorinus mirabilis, Phestilla melanobranchia, Dermatobranchus fortunatus, Bornella anguilla, and several Coryphellina species including Coryphellina exoptata.

Thorunna Horologia Nudibranch Myanmar liveaboard

Thorunna Horologia Nudibranch | Oren Kidron

Goniobranchs Geometricus Nudibranch Myanmar liveaboard

Goniobranchs Geometricus Nudibranch | Oren Kidron

Our divers were also able to encounter bamboo shark hiding in the boulders, tigertail seahorses, tapestry shrimp, schools of neon and yellow back fusiliers, banded snake eel hunting,

Tapestry Shrimp | Oren Kidron

Tiger Tail Seahorse | Oren Kidron

The night dive revealed zebra moray eels, massive hermit crabs, sea urchin crabs, Moridilla brocki, broadclub cuttlefish,hunting pygmy squid and hunting bamboo shark.

Camille and Cuttlefish | Oren Kidron

Day 5 – Burma Banks

Rainbow Bank delivered exactly what divers hope for here: nurse sharks resting beneath bommies, marble rays cruising by and mangrove whip rays lifting from the sand. Powder-blue and lined surgeonfish mingled with oriental sweetlips and two-spot butterflyfish, while coral and peacock groupers guarded the reef.

Marble ray

Butterfly fish et Moorish Idols Andaman Sea liveaboard

Butterfly fish & Moorish Idols

Anthias clouds brought colour to the slopes, including scalefin anthias, flame anthias and redbar anthias darting above yellow saddle goatfish. Cleaner wrasses and sixline wrasses hovered around cleaning stations, joined by silverstreak anthias shimmering in the current.

Nurse shark and divers

Resting nurse shark

At Coral Bank, action intensified with large schools of giant trevallies and jacks, black-and-white giant snappers, five-lined snappers and chevron barracudas. One lucky group even witnessed two nurse sharks mating, a rare and powerful encounter.
Blackwater divers later enjoyed larval flounders, mantis shrimp larvae, drifting salps, translucent jellies and tiny crab larvae.

Larval Shrimp Blackwater Myanmar liveaboard

Larval Shrimp | Oren Kidron

larval flounder Blackwater Myanmar 03.02.26 Oren Kidron

larval flounder | Oren Kidron

Day 6 – Burma Banks

More giant trevallies cruised above Coral Bank while neon and yellowback fusiliers blanketed the reef. Silvertip sharks appeared alongside resting nurse sharks, creating classic Banks scenery.

Silvertip sharks

Nurse Shark, Burma Banks

At Silvertip Bank, a rare trio of oceanic triggerfish surprised everyone, accompanied by a passing Napoleon wrasse, filamented blennies and fire gobies. Blue-ringed angelfish, regal angelfish, Indian mimic surgeonfish, bird wrasses and bullethead parrotfish rounded out the reef community.
Blackwater once again delivered magic with larval barracudas, flying fish larvae, shimmering Venus girdles, pelagic thecosomes, shrimp larvae and ribbon-like Tomopteris worms.

pelagic thecosomes Blackwater Myanmar liveaboard

pelagic thecosomes | Oren Kidron

Venus Girdle Blackwater Myanmar liveaboard

Venus Girdle | Oren Kidron

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Sea Fan Forest felt like drifting through an underwater cathedral, where giant purple sea fans framed the reef and currents carried constant movement through the water column. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers streamed above the slope while golden trevallies patrolled the blue. Pickhandle barracudas hovered in loose formation and passing mackerel injected sudden bursts of speed into the scene.
On the reef itself, the resident stonefishes, blue-ringed angelfish, Chelidonura hirundinina, regal angelfish, anemone crabs and oriental sweetlips moved between coral outcrops as bird wrasses and powder-blue surgeonfish grazed along the hard coral ridges.

Chelidonura Hirundinina "Swallowtail Headshild Slug" | Oren Kidron

Porcelain Anemone Crab Myanmar liveaboard

Porcelain Anemone Crab | Oren Kidron

Macro highlights included Glossodoris cincta, Goniobranchus geometrica, Phyllodesmium poindimiei, and Pteraeolidia semperi, alongside mating broadclub cuttlefish — a reminder that even on the most dynamic reefs, extraordinary small life thrives.

Glossodoris Cincta Nudibranch Myanmar liveaboard

Glossodoris Cincta Nudibranch | Oren Kidron

Few sites in the Mergui Archipelago rival Western Rocky when conditions, marine life, and curiosity align:
The Cave revealed Goniobranchus geminus, , Halgerda tessellata, Halgerda willeyi, multiple drifting blue dragons, a striking Phyllidia species, and several Unidentia. Around them, swirling fusiliers drew in hunting giant trevallies while lionfish hovered beneath overhangs and titan triggerfish cruised the perimeter.

Beyond the Cave, the Islets offered a different atmosphere altogether. Clouds of neon and yellowback fusiliers cascaded over the reef while scissortail fusiliers shimmered in the current. Bluefin trevallies swept through the schools with effortless precision, occasionally scattering them into flashing silver ribbons and maldivian sponge snails gliding on the reef.
Sharp-eyed divers continued their macro hunt, discovering several well-hidden nudibranchs, Thorunna australis, among the rubble as lionfish hovered motionless near the rocks and porcupinefish cruised calmly through the shallows.
At Eagle’s Rock, the dive delivered one of the most memorable sightings of the day, a beautifully camouflaged clown frogfish perched quietly on the reef, perfectly still yet impossible to ignore once spotted. Nearby, Spanish mackerel sliced through the water column while triggerfish patrolled the rocky edges, adding to the sense of constant movement.

Coral Reef | Oren Kidron

Sheel's Eyes | Oren Kidron

Yellow Head Moray Eel Myanmar liveaboard

Yellow Head Moray Eel | Oren Kidron

Day 9 – Volcano (Shark Lagoon) & Farewell

Our final morning unfolded inside the sheltered amphitheatre of Shark Lagoon, a dramatic horseshoe-shaped formation carved by ancient geological forces rather than volcanic activity. Hard coral gardens climbed the slopes while sponges and soft corals painted the rock in vivid colours.
A shy blacktip reef shark cruised through the lagoon as a pregnant tiger-tail seahorse clung gently to the reef. Spirit mantis shrimps guarded their burrows while Clark’s anemonefish defended their homes. Blue-ringed angelfish, threadfin butterflyfish and a curious coral grouper completed the scene alongside boxer shrimps and a watchful fimbriated moray.

Cuttlefish Coral Reef Myanmar Liveaboard

Cuttlefish on the Reef | Oren Kidron

Zanzibar Whip Coral Shrimp Myanmar liveaboard

Zanzibar Whip Coral Shrimp | Oren Kidron

Spider Crab | Oren Kidron

Soon after surfacing, we began our return to Kawthung for immigration, shared a final drink at the Smile Bar, and sailed back to Ranong — closing yet another expedition filled with both grand pelagic encounters and exquisite macro discoveries aboard the Smiling Seahorse.
To everyone who joined us on this journey — thank you, and we look forward to diving together again soon.
Out here, every expedition writes its own story.

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Trip report Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks 24 January – 1 February 2026

3/2/2026

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Remote, wild and wonderfully unpredictable, this expedition through the Mergui Archipelago and out to the Burma Banks delivered the full spectrum of Andaman diving. From open-ocean giants to minute macro masterpieces, the week unfolded as a constant contrast between power and precision, blue-water encounters and slow, detail-driven exploration.

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

After clearing Thai immigration at Badin Pier in Ranong, we welcomed an international group of guests from Switzerland, Israel, France, Germany, the Netherland, the USA, Norway and Finland. A smooth crossing to Kawthung allowed us to complete Burmese immigration before setting course north into the Mergui Archipelago.
As the mainland disappeared, jungle-covered islands emerged on the horizon, hinting at the untouched reefs ahead. Quiet anchorages, mangrove-lined bays and the feeling of true exploration set the tone for the days to come.

Myanmar Island Temple Myanmar Liveaboard

Myanmar Island Viewpoint Myanmar Liveaboard

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs

Our first dives at South Twin Reef offered a gentle re-entry into the underwater world, blending colourful reef life with outstanding macro. Walls were decorated with Flabellina species and Chromodoris annulata, while squat shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps shared crevices with peacock mantis shrimps. Schools of lined surgeonfish and ringtail surgeonfish cruised steadily above the reef, joined by clouds of neon and yellowback fusiliers.
Out in the blue, dogtooth tuna made fast passes, while giant moray eels watched from their lairs and batfish hovered calmly above coral bommies. Tiny juvenile anemonefish added delicate movement among soft corals and sea anemones.

Dive three at North Twin Reef shifted the balance slightly toward larger reef predators. Octopus activity was constant, giant moray eels dominated the cracks, and powder-blue surgeonfish, coral groupers and titan triggerfish patrolled the reef. Macro lovers were rewarded again with Chromodoris annulata, Halgerda species and Flabellina nudibranchs tucked into the reef structure.

The night dive in North Twin Bay brought a dramatic change of pace. Octopus and cuttlefish hunted actively, squid hovered in midwater, jellyfish sheltered juvenile fish, and big red reef crabs marched across the sand. Scorpionfish and bar-tail moray eels emerged, while parrotfish and triggerfish slept wedged into the rock, trigger spines firmly locked in place.

Nudibranch Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Liveaboard Diving Boat Myanmar Liveaboard

Day 3 – Black Rock

A full day at Black Rock delivered the classic mix of adrenaline and detail that defines this iconic site. Morning dives were highlighted by curious oceanic manta rays circling gracefully above the pinnacle. Around them, schools of chevron barracuda, blacktip trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies and bigeye trevallies formed shifting walls of silver.

On the reef itself, coral groupers and peacock groupers shared space with powder-blue and velvet surgeonfish. Giant moray eels and yellow-edged moray eels filled the cracks, while batfish lingered in the lee of the current. Neon and yellowback fusiliers formed dense, constantly moving clouds around the rock.
Macro life was just as intense: Bornella anguilla, Goniobranchus geometrica, white-bump sapsucking slugs, golden wentletrap snails, tiger cowries, peacock-tail anemone shrimps and broadclub cuttlefish expertly camouflaged on the seafloor.

The night dive revealed yet another side of Black Rock. Pygmy squid hunted small shrimps, devil scorpionfish lay in wait, and bar-tail moray eels cruised openly. Tiger cowries, money cowries and mole cowries dotted the reef alongside basket stars, sea cucumbers and massive hermit crabs. Moridilla brocki and slender Roboastra added vibrant flashes of colour to the darkness.

Ghost Pipefish Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Black Rock Sunset Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Oceanic Manta Ray Burma Banks Myanmar Liveaboard

Tigertail Seahorse Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Crab Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Day 4 – Three Islets & Crossing to the Burma Banks

At Three Islets, we explored Submarine, Shark Cave and Square, enjoying a rich mix of reef fish and macro highlights. Bamboo sharks rested under ledges, while cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish hovered above soft corals. Schools of neon, yellowback, slender and twin stripe fusiliers streamed past chevron barracuda and passing trevallies.

At Shark Cave, tomato anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish guarded their homes alongside anemone crabs, while white-eye and honeycomb moray eels patrolled the reef. Macro finds included Nembrotha lineolata, Cuthona sibogae, mouthbrooding cardinalfish and Chromodoris annulata.
Square delivered tiger-tail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, batfish, yellowtail barracuda and golden trevallies, with Goniobranchus geometrica, egg cowries and juvenile seahorses tucked into the reef. A Khul’s stingray glided silently across the sand.

The night dive was packed with life: blunt decorated crabs, cone snails, princely cones, tiger cowries, gorgonian crabs, juvenile cuttlefish, marble rays hunting, basket stars, sleeping filefish, toadfish and hunting moray eels.

After the final dive, we headed west toward the Burma Banks, isolated seamounts rising from deep water and famous for shark encounters and wide-open pelagic scenery.

Porcupine fish Burma Banks Myanmar Liveaboard

Fruit Breakfast Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Coral Reef and Fish Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Day 5 – Burma Banks

At Row Bank, adult and juvenile nurse sharks dominated the scene, resting on sandy ledges and cruising slowly along the reef. Powder-blue and lined surgeonfish mixed with oriental sweetlips and two-spot butterflyfish. Coral groupers and peacock groupers held position near the reef, while cleaner wrasse and sixline wrasse worked constantly. Basslets hovered close to the reef face, and yellow-saddle goatfish sifted the sand.

Rainbow Bank continued the shark theme, with more nurse sharks, schools of humpback unicornfish and sleek unicornfish, batfish, longnose emperors and large schools of black-and-white snappers mixed with giant one-spot and five-lined snappers. Great barracuda patrolled the blue, while honeycomb moray eels filled the cracks.

Due to weather conditions, we made the decision to head back toward the archipelago, trading open ocean for shelter and macro-rich reefs.

Giant Moray Eel Burma Banks Myanmar Liveaboard

flowers at island viewpoint Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Day 6 – Western Rocky

The morning began at Volcano, also known as Shark Lagoon. Inside the lagoon, hard corals framed the dramatic rock amphitheatre, while colourful sponges and soft corals painted the walls in yellow, orange, pink, purple and green. Spirit mantis shrimps guarded their burrows, Cuthona sibogae and blue dragons crept across the reef, and tiger-tail seahorses clung to gorgonians.

Western Rocky, including the Islets, the Cave and Eagle’s Rock, delivered classic big-and-small contrasts. Schools of trevallies, fusiliers and yellowtail barracuda swept past lionfish, scorpionfish and titan triggerfish. Giant moray eels filled the Cave, alongside Glossodoris hikuerensis, Risbecia pulchella, Bornella anguilla, Hypselodoris decorata, blue dragons and octopus. Five-lined snappers filled the chamber, while the Islets revealed harlequin shrimps, honeycomb and leopard moray eels and flashing flasher wrasses.

Harlequin Shrimp Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Scorpionfish Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

nurse Shark Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest

At Sea Fan Forest, towering purple soft corals and massive sea fans framed a thriving reef. Giant stonefish rested among the bases, while sleeping giant moray eels, rainbow runners and golden trevallies passed through the forest of fans. Schools of neon and yellowback fusiliers streamed overhead, joined by coral and peacock groupers, wrasses, blennies, parrotfish and triggerfish.

Macro highlights were abundant: Bornella anguilla, juvenile and adult Chelidonura punctata mating and laying eggs, Goniobranchus collinwoodi, Glossodoris cincta, Goniobranchus geometrica, devil scorpionfish, mating pharaoh cuttlefish, zebra moray eels, banded sea snakes, octopus and ornamental nudibranchs.

Some divers opted for a blackwater dive, encountering juvenile squids, larval crustaceans, tiny jellyfish, larval triggerfish and drifting eel larvae glowing in the darkness.

Post Larval Fish Blackwater Diving Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Dive Crew Blackwater Dive Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Squid Blackwater Diving Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Blackwater Diving | Myanmar

Shrimp Blackwater Diving Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Day 8 – Dendro’s Peak & Western Rocky

At Dendro’s Peak, giant, golden and bluefin trevallies hunted schools of juvenile and naked fusiliers. Rainbow runners sliced through the current, while stonefish, fimbriated moray eels and Chromodoris annulata decorated the reef. Common reef fish such as surgeonfish, butterflyfish, angelfish, wrasses and parrotfish filled the background.

The following dives at Western Rocky focused heavily on macro. The Islets and Eagle’s Rock delivered Glossodoris rufomarginata, large Goniobranchus reticulata, Hypselodoris decorata, resting marble rays, maldivian sponge snails, Aldisa albatrossae and Bornella anguilla. The Cave continued the nudibranch parade with Glossodoris averni, polka-dot phyllidia and Phyllidiopsis species.
The day ended with our traditional BBQ and boat party under the stars.

Blenny Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Octopus Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

Tiger Egg Cowrie Mergui Archipelago MyanmarLiveaboard

Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell

Our final dive returned to Dendro’s Peak, where giant moray eels, Clark’s anemonefish, and schools of rainbow runners and trevallies provided a fitting farewell. Naked, neon and yellowback fusiliers, stonefish, banded, sea snakes filled the water column, while cowries and colourful nudibranchs such as juvenile goniobranchus annulata and gemini offered last macro moments.

After surfacing, we headed back to Kawthung for Burmese immigration, shared a final drink at the Smile Bar, and returned to Ranong, closing another unforgettable Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks adventure aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse.

Stonefish Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

group photo Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard

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Trip Report: Happy New Year From Mergui Archipelago! 29th December 2025 – 4th January 2026

5/1/2026

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Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

After clearing Thai immigration in Ranong, we welcomed our international group, from Taiwan, Japan, France, Russia, USA, Norway, Spain and India on board and set course north toward Myanmar. Following a smooth immigration process in Kawthung, the Smiling Seahorse slipped into the vast maze of the Mergui Archipelago. Hundreds of islands, mangroves, and untouched reefs stretched around us as we sailed deeper into a region where tides and currents still dictate the rhythm of life. The evening was spent settling in, enjoying sunset on deck, and anticipating the first dives of the trip. Thanks for all the lovely photos you've shared, we've added a few more from previous trips to illustrate this blogpost and what was spotted this week :)

Photo by Shun Cajot Yoshida

Photo by Shun Cajot Yoshida

Photo by Shun Cajot Yoshida

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs

Our first two dives took place at South Twin Reef. Stonefish lay perfectly camouflaged on the reef, while a shy turtle cruised past before disappearing into the blue. Giant trevallies and rainbow runners swept through the current, and yellow-edged moray eels queued patiently at cleaning stations, mouths wide open like clients at an underwater dentist. Durban dancing shrimps, peacock mantis shrimps, blue sea stars, Indian cushion sea stars, Persian carpet flatworms, giant moray eels and bar-tail moray eels filled the reef with life. Schools of neon fusiliers, bannerfish, striped bristletooth surgeonfish and flashes of blue dragons completed the scene.

Dive three brought us to North Twin Reef, where a vast granite plateau drops into coral bommies growing around and on top of the rock. Here we encountered gold-dotted flatworms, Maldivian sponge snails, blue dragons, Chromodoris annulata, and a giant moray eel enjoying a meticulous cleaning session by a banded boxer shrimp. Schools of yellowback fusiliers and naked fusiliers streamed over the reef.

Giant moray eel

Peacock Mantis Shrimp

Photo by Ward Quincey - Stronefish

Mating Cuttlefish at Seafan Forest

Blue dragon Nudibranch

Photo by Ward Quincey - Another pretty Nudibranch

Our night dive at North Twin Bay Reef revealed a completely different atmosphere. Phillidia ocellata, Chelidonura punctata, blunt decorated crabs, red reef crabs, octopus, baby squids and a tiny juvenile octopus emerged under torchlight, transforming the reef into a nocturnal theatre.

Photo by Ward Quincey - Squid

Photo by Ward Quincey - Day Octopus

Day 3 – Black Rock

We dedicated the entire day to Black Rock, one of the most iconic dive sites of the Mergui Archipelago. The dives were packed with action: Bornella anguilla, anemone crabs, Clark’s anemonefish, and large schools of juvenile yellowback fusiliers mixed with naked fusiliers. We observed octopus mating, bearded scorpionfish, lionfish, peacock-tail anemone shrimps, squat shrimps and banded boxer shrimps. A yellow frogfish sat motionless on the reef, while zebra moray and tiger snake moray eels patrolled the rocks. Juvenile sweetlips hovered nervously, mackerels zipped past, and giant trevallies with rainbow runners dominated the blue.

Dive two delivered a memorable highlight as oceanic mantas glided overhead, circling gracefully before vanishing into the deep. We ended the day with a festive BBQ on board, celebrating the final hours of 2025 while sailing toward Three Islets.

Day 4 – Three Islets

The first morning of 2026 began with stunning dives at Submarine, Shark Cave, and Square. Schools of naked fusiliers, juvenile yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers and blue-striped fusiliers filled the water column. Bamboo sharks rested under ledges, while octopus roamed the reef. Yellow-and-black tiger-tail seahorses, including juveniles, clung to the reef, alongside colonies of Chromodoris fidelis. We also encountered schools of yellowtail barracuda, scorpionfish, devil scorpionfish, banded snake eels, fimbriated and honeycomb moray eels, Cuthona sibogae, orange-spotted pipefish, Durban dancing shrimps, banded boxer shrimps and a marble ray cruising by.

In the afternoon, we went ashore at Kyun Phila (Phila Island) to visit the local village, temple and beach, before returning to the boat for our first night dive of the year. The night dive delivered starry night octopus, five tiger-tail seahorses including two juveniles (one completely white), ambon crinoid shrimps, bubble shrimps, blunt decorated crabs, sleeping parrotfish cocooned in the reef, resting triggerfish wedged into rocks, soldierfish and squirrelfish emerging from crevices, and hunting moray eels cruising the sand.

Photo by Ward Quincey - so many tigertail seahorse spotted that night!

Bamboo shark on the ledge

Chelidonura Punctata Mating Myanmar Liveaboard

Photo by Ward Quincey - Chelidonura Punctata Mating

Photo by Ward Quincey, scorpionfish

Day 5 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Our first two dives took place at Seafan Forest. Pharaoh cuttlefish and broadclub cuttlefish hovered over the reef, while trevallies, rainbow runners and mackerel passed by in the blue. Emperor fish, peacock mantis shrimps, Chromodoris albopunctata mating, Chromodoris annulata, black frogfish, Chelidonura punctata and perfectly hidden stonefish kept everyone busy. Two dive groups also retrieved a large ghost net from the reef, a meaningful conservation effort.

The reef was alive with toby puffers from the Andaman Sea, porcupinefish, sharpnose puffers, titan and yellowmargin triggerfish, bullethead and steephead parrotfish, moon and cleaner wrasses, yellow and bluefin goatfish, combtooth blennies, coral and peacock groupers, white-eye moray eels, powder-blue and ringtail surgeonfish, blueface angelfish and pennant butterflyfish.

Dive three at Western Rocky, exploring the Cave, Islets and Eagle’s Rock, revealed pharaoh cuttlefish laying eggs deep in the rock, a giant moray eel waiting in the cave, cleaning shrimps, blunt decorated crabs, reef crabs, Durban dancing shrimps, Chromodoris annulata, Hypselodoris bullockii, Moridilla brocki and blue dragons. Wrasses were actively attacking sergeant major eggs in a lively display of reef drama.

We ended the day with a blackwater dive, encountering mantis shrimp larvae, shrimp larvae with golden legs, bobtail squids, pencil squids, salps, schooling cuttlefish larvae, juvenile flying fish, crab larvae and juveniles, eel larvae, triggerfish larvae, glowing comb jellies and drifting worms.

Juvenile Flying Fish Blackwater Diving Myanmar Liveaboard

Flying fish - illustrative photo from previous cruise

Larval Eel Blackwater Diving Myanmar Liveaboard

Larva Eel - illustrative photo from previous cruise

Larval Crab Blackwater Diving Myanmar Liveaboard

Crab - illustrative photo from previous cruise

Comb Jellyfish Blackwater Diving Myanmar Liveaboard

Salp xmas lights - illustrative photo from previous cruise

Day 6 – Dendro’s Peak, Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Our first dive at Dendro’s Peak featured dogtooth tuna, rainbow runners, giant trevallies and narrow-barred Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus commerson). Pharaoh cuttlefish and stonefish shared the reef with streaming fusiliers, bluefin trevallies, coral groupers, longnose butterflyfish, cleaner wrasses and large barrel sponges sheltering clouds of glassfish.

Back at Sea Fan Forest, we encountered stonefish, cuttlefish, rainbow runners, peacock mantis shrimps hunting, Chromodoris annulata, Halgerda tessellata and Glossodoris hikuerensis. Giant sea fans covered in purple soft corals dominated the landscape, surrounded by schools of fusiliers, bannerfish, yellowtail butterflyfish, wrasses, blennies and juvenile angelfish hiding deep within the reef.

At Western Rocky, ghost pipefish drifted along the reef, alongside Bornella anguilla, Chromodoris annulata with eggs, Chromodoris risbecia tryoni with eggs, a giant moray eel waiting at the cave exit, Persian carpet flatworms mating, juvenile chromodoris and Flabellina bicolor.

The night dive delivered ghost pipefish, big red reef crabs, a tiger cowrie gliding openly across the rock, massive Glossodoris hikuerensis with eggs, Chromodoris annulata, giant moray eels preparing to hunt, dark flatworms, squat shrimps, hermit crabs, leopard sea cucumbers, red sea stars and Indian cushion sea stars.

Day 7 – Volcano & Return to Civilisation

Often nicknamed “Volcano” by divers, our final dive site is in fact Shark Lagoon, a spectacular collapsed rocky formation rather than a true volcanic crater. We entered the lagoon to admire the dramatic rock amphitheatre before starting our final dive along a sponge- and soft-coral-covered wall shaped by erosion and time. Chromodoris fidelis, tiger-tail seahorses, blue dragons, Risbecia pulchella, blue-ringed angelfish, two-lined spinecheeks, gold-saddled rabbitfish, dark surgeonfish and comet longfin fish accompanied us along the reef.

Giant barrel sponges, purple and pink soft coral trees, schools of fusiliers, hawkfish, coral groupers, cleaner shrimps and swirling clouds of glassfish completed a calm, colorful, and fitting finale to our New Year journey in the Mergui Archipelago. After surfacing, we began our journey back toward civilisation, carrying with us memories of pristine reefs, festive New Year celebrations at sea, and unforgettable encounters in the wild heart of the Mergui Archipelago.

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Trip report: Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks 14th – 21st December 2025

5/1/2026

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Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

We left Ranong’s Badin Pier after clearing Thai immigration, welcoming guests from France, Greece, Germany, USA, Malaysia, Singapore, Belgium, Ireland, and Italy. After a smooth Burmese immigration process in Kawthung, the Smiling Seahorse headed north into the Mergui Archipelago, a remote labyrinth of jungle-covered islands, quiet bays, and rarely visited reefs where diving still feels like exploration.

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs

Our check dive and second dive took place at South Twin Reef, easing everyone back into the water with a mix of macro and reef life. Flabellina and Chromodoris annulata covered the walls, while squat shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps shared space with peacock mantis shrimps. Schools of lined surgeonfish and ringtail surgeonfish cruised over the reef, joined by neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers. Dogtooth tuna patrolled the blue, giant moray eels peeked from the rocks, and batfish hovered calmly nearby, while tiny juvenile anemonefish added delicate flashes of pink.
Dive three brought us to North Twin Reef, where octopus activity was high, giant moray eels dominated the crevices, and Chromodoris annulata appeared again along the reef. A few coral groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, and titan triggerfish completed the scene.
The night dive in North Twin Bay was pure atmosphere. Curious octopus, squids, jellyfish sheltering tiny fish, big red reef crabs, scorpionfish, and bar-tail moray eels filled the darkness. Parrotfish and triggerfish were found sleeping, firmly wedged into the rock, their trigger spine locked in place to keep predators at bay, a perfect example of reef survival after sunset.

ringed nudibranch, Goniobranchus annulatus, Andaman liveaboard

squat shrimps, Mergui Archipelago liveaboard

ringed nudibranch (Goniobranchus annulatus) Andaman Sea liveaboard

scorpionfish well camouflaged, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Fimbriated moray (Gymnothorax fimbriatus) Andaman Sea liveaboard

Day 3 – Black Rock

We spent the full day at Black Rock, a dramatic offshore pinnacle where deep water, currents, and open ocean life constantly rewrite the dive plan. Morning dives were rewarded with curious oceanic manta rays circling above the reef, accompanied by schools of chevron barracuda, blacktip trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies, and bigeye trevallies. Great barracuda, giant moray eels, yellow-edged moray eels, and shy batfish added to the excitement, while coral groupers, peacock groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, and velvet surgeonfish filled the reef.
Macro life was everywhere, with anemone crabs, cleaner shrimps, squat shrimps, bearded scorpionfish, and colorful nudibranchs. Neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers formed dense clouds around the pinnacle, constantly shifting with the current.
The night dive revealed a different Black Rock, with pygmy squid hunting shrimps, devil scorpionfish, bar-tail moray eels, sleeping parrotfish, rabbitfish, and a stunning collection of cowries including tiger cowrie, money cowrie, and mole cowrie, along with basket stars and sea cucumbers carpeting the reef.

bigeye trevally (Caranx sexfasciatus) Andaman Sea liveaboard

orange cup coral, possibly a Tubastraea species

bigeye scad (Selar crumenophthalmus) Andaman Sea Liveaboard

lionfish in Mergui Archipelago, Amdaman Sea liveaboard

Day 4 – Three Islets & Sailing to the Burma Banks

We explored Three Islets, diving Submarine, Shark Cave, and Square. At Submarine, bamboo sharks rested calmly while cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish hovered above the reef. Schools of neon fusiliers, yellowback fusiliers, slender fusiliers, and twin stripe fusiliers mixed with chevron barracuda and passing trevallies including giant trevally, bluefin trevally, and golden trevally. A cobia hid among rainbow runners, while wahoo and mackerel cut through the blue. One lucky group even witnessed a whale shark cruising through the main channel.

Shark Cave delivered classic scenes of tomato anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish guarding their eggs, anemone crabs, white-eye moray eels, schools of fusiliers, and wrasses repeatedly harassing sergeant majors protecting their nests.
At Square, tiger-tail seahorses stole the show alongside orange-spotted pipefish, golden trevallies, yellowtail barracuda, batfish, and spider crabs. The night dive added decorated crabs, sea snakes, cone snails, gorgonian crabs, and glowing nudibranchs to the mix.
After the final dive, we set course west toward the legendary Burma Banks, a remote chain of offshore seamounts rising from deep water and known for shark encounters and wide-open pelagic scenery.

Burma Banks underwater scenery, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Anemone and beautiful red soft coral, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Tiger tail seahorse, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Juvenile wrasse in mergui archipelago, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Day 5 – Burma Banks

At Row Bank, adult and juvenile nurse sharks dominated the dives, cruising effortlessly above sandy slopes. Powder-blue surgeonfish and lined surgeonfish moved across the reef alongside oriental sweetlips and two-spot butterflyfish. Around the coral heads, coral groupers and peacock groupers patrolled calmly, while cleaner wrasse and sixline wrasse stayed busy at their stations. Between the rocks, leopard blennies and fang blennies popped in and out, joined by flashes of royal dottybacks adding color to the shadows.
At Rainbow Bank, the scene remained wide open and shark-filled, with more nurse sharks gliding past mangrove snappers and schools of humpback unicornfish and sleek unicornfish. The reef itself was alive with pastel ringwrasse, moon wrasse, and African coris sweeping over the bottom, while chalk bass and royal dottybacks hovered close to the structure. Tiny blennies guarded their holes as blue and gold fusiliers streamed overhead.
The final two dives at Coral Bank brought white-tip reef shark into the mix, accompanied by powder-blue surgeonfish, epaulette surgeonfish, and golden rabbitfish grazing along the reef. The smaller life stole the show here, with cleaner wrasse, blackear wrasse, dragon wrasse, leopard blennies, chalk bass, royal dottybacks, and juvenile damselfish filling every crevice, turning these quieter dives into beautifully detailed reef explorations.

barrel sponge (Xestospongia muta), Andaman Sea liveaboard

juvenile Emperor Angelfish (Pomacanthus imperator) Andaman Sea liveaboard

Diver freeing a scorpion fish from a ghost net, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Epidendrium billeeanum, commonly known as the yellow sea snail

Yellow sea snails eating a yellow cup coral to replace it with its eggs. Egg mass visible on the lower right corner.

Batfish in the blue... Mergui Archipelago

Day 6 – Burma Banks next

Three dives at Silvertip Bank delivered classic big-bank scenery with nurse sharks, silvertip reef sharks, bigeye emperors, powder-blue surgeonfish, lined surgeonfish, and humpback unicornfish cruising above the reef. Macro highlights included nudibranchs and a tapestry shrimp hiding inside a giant clam, while mappa pufferfish drifted lazily by.
The evening ended with a blackwater dive, revealing larval flounder, larval mantis shrimp, post-larval porcupinefish, flying fish larvae, pencil squid, purple-back squid, larval anemones, siphonophores, comb jellies, and clouds of drifting plankton glowing in the darkness.

post-larval porcupinefish, Andaman Sea liveaboard

flying fish larvae, Andaman Sea liveaboard

a comb jelly, likely the species Mnemiopsis leidyi,

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

At Sea Fan Forest, giant purple soft corals and towering sea fans framed stonefish, sleeping giant moray eels, rainbow runners, and schools of neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers. The reef was alive with coral groupers, peacock groupers, wrasses, blennies, parrotfish, and triggerfish weaving through the coral forest.
The second dive turned into a true team effort as most divers joined a successful ghost net removal, freeing the reef from a massive abandoned net.
The afternoon and sunset dives at Western Rocky, covering the Islets, the Cave, and Eagle’s Rock, delivered schools of trevallies, fusiliers, yellowtail barracuda, lionfish, scorpionfish, titan triggerfish, ghost pipefish, giant moray eels, harlequin shrimps, and a spectacular Glossodoris cincta laying eggs. The day ended with our traditional BBQ and boat party under the stars.

Titan triggerfish, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Harlequin Shrimp, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Day 8 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell

Our final dive took place at Dendro’s Peak, where pharaoh cuttlefish, giant moray eels, Clark’s anemonefish, schools of rainbow runners, bluefin trevallies, neon fusiliers, and yellowback fusiliers provided a perfect farewell.
We then headed back to Kawthung for Burmese immigration, shared a last beer at the Smile Bar, and returned to Ranong, closing another unforgettable Mergui and Burma Banks adventure aboard the Smiling Seahorse.

Sunset on Burma Banks, Andaman Sea liveaboard

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Trip Report: Mergui and Burma Banks - Special Blackwater Trip - 5th - 12th December 2025

19/12/2025

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Squid Blackwater Diving Myanmar Liveaboard

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

We departed Ranong’s Badin Pier after clearing Thai immigration, welcoming guests from Switzerland, France, Canada, the USA, Australia, Austria, the Netherlands, Macau, New Zealand, and Belgium. After a smooth Burmese immigration process in Kawthung, we set sail north through the Mergui Archipelago, a vast maze of untouched islands, mangroves, and reefs where nature still sets the rhythm.

black rock mergui archipelago myanmar liveaboard

Day 2 – Twin Reefs & First Blackwater

Our first dive at South Twin Reef eased everyone into the trip. Gold-saddle rabbitfish cruised above the reef while longbarbel goatfish sifted through the sand. Vagabond and Meyer’s butterflyfish fluttered around coral heads, joined by batfish and an octopus tucked safely into its den. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers streamed past checkered and five-lined snappers, while coral groupers and ringtail surgeonfish patrolled the hard coral slopes. Cleaner wrasses darted between passing fish, completing the scene.

Dives two and three at North Twin Reef brought more action. Blackfin barracudas formed tight schools in the blue, cuttlefish hovered above the reef, and scorpionfish blended perfectly into the background. Bicolor parrotfish grazed noisily, lionfish hovered motionless, and tiny gobies and blennies peeked out from coral cracks as moon wrasses and sixline wrasses zigzagged through the reef.

As night fell, we launched our first blackwater dive, and it delivered instant magic. A marlin appeared out of the darkness, hunting right along the dive line. Sleeper lobsters drifted by clutching salps, spearing mantis shrimps flashed their raptorial arms, and jellyfish, comb jellies, and larvaceans filled the water column. Larval flounders, sea butterflies, crab larvae, flying squid, mahi-mahi, golden trevallies, and even a wandering moray eel made this an unforgettable first plunge into the deep pelagic night.

larval fish blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard

seahorse blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard

larval shrimp blackwater diving myanmar liveaboard

Day 3 – Black Rock: Giants and Night Lights

We spent the entire day at Black Rock, one of the jewels of the Mergui Archipelago. Rising steeply from the depths, this exposed seamount is famous for big fish, strong currents, and surprises.

Dives one, two, and three were blessed with oceanic Manta rays gliding effortlessly around the divers, looping back again and again as if curious. Great barracudas, cobias, and massive schools of blackfin barracudas filled the blue, while yellowback and neon fusiliers shimmered around the rock. Chromodoris nudibranchs added color to the reef, octopuses hid among the boulders, and schools of jacks surged past. Among them swam schools of giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies, and bigeye trevallies, with the golden trevallies appearing to be in full mating display. A school of blacktip trevallies (Caranx heberi), an unusual sight, swept past the reef.”

The sunset dive revealed a different world. Clark’s anemonefish guarded their eggs fiercely, surrounded by anemone crabs, squat shrimps, marble shrimps, and banded boxer shrimps. Octopuses crept across the reef, Durban dancing shrimps waved from crevices, schools of black surgeonfish passed by, and African pompano cruised through the fading light. Porcupinefish, map puffers, bullet head parrotfish, and powder-blue surgeonfish rounded off the scene.

Some divers opted for another blackwater dive, encountering pelagic seahorses, larval tuna, pencil squid, larval triggerfish, mini jacks sheltering inside salps, and post-larval African pompano drifting silently through the darkness.

Giant oceanic Manta ray myanmar liveaboard

Day 4 – Three Islets to the Burma Banks

We explored Three Islets, diving between Shark Cave, Submarine, and Square.
At Submarine, a bamboo shark rested under an overhang while cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish hovered nearby. Blue-spotted ribbontail rays glided across the sand, batfish cruised by, and the reef came alive with moon wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, yellowback fusiliers, damselfish, and map puffers.

Shark Cave revealed tomato and Clark’s anemonefish guarding their homes, anemone crabs waving from their tentacles, and white-eye moray eels peering from the shadows. Wrasses repeatedly attacked sergeant majors guarding their eggs, while schools of golden trevallies, yellow-lined fusiliers, and even a passing wahoo added excitement.

At Square, we found tiger-tail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, yellowtail barracudas, giant trevallies hiding in cracks, golden trevallies, and batfish drifting calmly in the blue.
After the final dive, we set sail west toward the Burma Banks, a remote chain of offshore seamounts rising abruptly from deep water, known for big sharks, strong currents, and true blue-water diving.

Day 5 – Row Bank and a Change of Plans

Our first dive at Row Bank delivered classic Burma Banks scenery. Adult and juvenile nurse sharks rested on the sand, ringtail and epaulette surgeonfish grazed nearby, and honeycomb moray eels peeked from coral heads. Golden rabbitfish, two-spot butterflyfish, and oriental sweetlips mingled with small coral groupers, cleaner wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, juvenile angelfish, and cleaning shrimps.

After the dive, the weather began to build. For safety reasons, we made the decision to leave the banks early and head back toward the shelter of the Mergui Archipelago. Spirits stayed high onboard, with time to relax, review photos, and enjoy the ride back through calmer waters.

Day 6 – Western Rocky & Sea Fan Forest

Back at Western Rocky, the first two dives at the Cave and Eagle’s Rock offered rich macro life. Octopuses, harlequin shrimps, Spanish mackerel, Bornella nudibranchs, twin chromodoris, and colorful soft corals filled the walls. Schools of snapper and fusiliers passed by, while butterflyfish, angelfish, wrasses, and damselfish kept the reef buzzing.

The third dive and sunset at Sea Fan Forest brought cuttlefish, stonefish, octopuses, blacktail barracudas, and flowing schools of neon and yellowback fusiliers. Coral groupers, moon wrasses, parrotfish, butterflyfish, triggerfish, and clouds of damselfish swirled around the massive sea fans.

That night, some divers slipped back into the dark for another blackwater dive, encountering sea snakes, salps, crab larvae, snapper larvae, cornetfish larvae, paper nautilus octopuses, sleeper lobsters, mantis shrimps, amphipods, and countless drifting creatures carried by the current.

Day 7 – Western Rocky in Full

An early morning dive at Sea Fan Forest set the tone for the day. Cuttlefish hovered over the reef, stonefish lay perfectly camouflaged on the bottom, and octopuses moved between coral heads. Peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows while yellow and brown trumpetfish drifted vertically along the sea fans. Red lionfish and clearfin lionfish hunted in the shadows, joined by devil scorpionfish resting motionless. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers streamed past, accompanied by lunar wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, and clouds of blue-green chromis.
We then returned to Western Rocky for three rich dives.

At the Cave, ghost pipefish swayed gently next to the wall, while blunt decorator crabs, white-spotted hermit crabs, and cleaning shrimps occupied every ledge. Giant moray eels watched from deep inside the cave, sharing the space with honeycomb moray eels. Nudibranchs such as leopard chromodoris and blue dragons added color, while Moorish idols cruised slowly past. The reef was busy with porcupinefish, map puffers, clown triggerfish, blueface angelfish, emperor angelfish, raccoon butterflyfish, and threadfin butterflyfish weaving through the coral.

At Eagle Rock, the action moved into the blue. Spanish mackerel cut through schools of jacks, including giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, and bigeye trevallies. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers wrapped the rock, mixed with five-lined snappers and yellow-lined snappers. Devil scorpionfish sat patiently on the bottom while several octopuses were spotted mating in the shallows. The reef itself was alive with moon wrasses, sixline wrasses, damselfish, skunk anemonefish, Clark’s anemonefish, coral groupers, honeycomb groupers, blennies peeking from holes, angelfish, butterflyfish, and triggerfish cruising between boulders.

The final dive at the Islets was a macro lover’s dream. Harlequin shrimps danced on sea stars, twin chromodoris and blue dragons crawled across the reef, and pipefish hovered close to soft corals. Around them swam a colorful mix of damselfish, fairy wrasses, parrotfish, butterflyfish, juvenile angelfish, rabbitfish, and small snappers, bringing the day to a perfect close.

Day 8 – Dendro’s Peak and Farewell

Our last dive of the trip took place at Dendro’s Peak, and it delivered a spectacular finale. Two giant marble rays glided effortlessly above the reef, while cuttlefish were seen mating on the top of the pinnacle, the male flashing intense patterns and colors to protect his female from rivals. Large schools of jacks and mackerel swept through the blue, joined by giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, and golden trevallies. Yellowback and neon fusiliers formed dense clouds over the reef, constantly on the move.

On the reef itself, bird wrasses, moon wrasses, and sixline wrasses darted between coral heads, while coral groupers and honeycomb groupers patrolled their territories. Bullethead parrotfish and bicolor parrotfish grazed noisily, surrounded by damselfish guarding their nests. Skunk anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish hovered above their anemones, and triggerfish cruised past, including yellow-margin triggerfish and titan triggerfish.

After surfacing, we set course back toward Kawthung for Burmese immigration, shared a final goodbye beer onboard, and finally returned to Ranong to re-enter Thailand. A fitting end to an intense and unforgettable journey through the Mergui Archipelago, the Burma Banks, and the deep pelagic world of blackwater diving.

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Trip report from the 10th to 17th November 2025, across Myanmar and Thailand

19/11/2025

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November 10th 2025 thailand and myanmar diving trip report

The MV Smiling Seahorse set off once again for an exceptional cross-border adventure — a journey from Thailand’s Surin & Similan National Parks to Myanmar’s wild Mergui Archipelago. This week we welcomed our wonderful guests from Israel, excited to explore two countries, two ecosystems, and a whole spectrum of marine life.
After check-in and Thai immigration formalities, we boarded the boat and headed across the Pakchan River to Kawthung for Burmese immigration. Passports stamped, gear prepped, smiles wide — our expedition began.

Sunset on the Myanmar and Thailand Andaman seas...

Day 2 — Mergui’s First Wonders

Our first dive at High Rock was the perfect warm-up. We drifted along the rocky outcrops and immediately met two tigertail seahorses hiding among the hard corals. Thornback boxfish hovered curiously near the walls while crocodile needlefish glided just under the surface. A busy peacock mantis shrimp scuttled across the sand, and Durban dancing shrimps flashed their white antennae from inside tiny crevices. Moray eels peeked out from the reef — fimbriated and white-eye morays sharing the same neighbourhood — and a cooperative group of four scribbled filefish swam past, changing colour as they fed. Schools of trumpetfish, lionfish, bearded scorpionfish, coral and peacock groupers, snappers, fusiliers, and a handful of blackfin barracudas filled the water column, with a white-tongue trevally circling us during the safety stop.

At Three Islets, the Submarine site gave us a lovely first encounter with a bamboo shark tucked into a rocky crack, and a turtle drifting lazily overhead. We found orange-spotted pipefish and the elegant nudibranch Chromodoris rufomarginata on the sandy slope. Shark Cave was buzzing with life; the entire cave shimmered with sweepers, and outside the entrance clouds of fusiliers pulsed in the current. Sergeant majors were fiercely defending their eggs while wrasses, angelfish, butterflyfish, and triggerfish opportunistically picked at any moment of distraction. Wahoos streaked through the blue, accompanied by a great barracuda, golden trevallies, and even a giant bicolour parrotfish. Square continued the spectacle with more tigertail seahorses, a giant moray, and well-hidden bearded scorpionfish.

Our night dive around Square and Shark Cave was a treasure hunt of nocturnal critters. Five tigertail seahorses showed up, along with sponge spider crabs, decorated crabs, Godiva quadricolor nudibranchs, and sleepy pufferfish wedged among the corals. Soldierfish and cardinalfish hovered in the glow of our torches while hinge-beak shrimp and banded cleaner shrimp darted from rock to rock.

Snake eel out and about!

High Rock, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar

fimbriated moray eel

White eyes moray eels, Mergui Archipelago

Feet of a crown of thorn seastar

Day 3 — Twin Islands & Blackwater Magic

At North Twin Reef, we descended into crystal-clear blue water where sea snakes wove gracefully across the reef. Oriental sweetlips gathered in loose schools, and anemonefish bobbed in their host anemones. Giant morays, surgeonfish, and redtooth triggerfish patrolled the boulder fields. Seal-face pufferfish, boxfish, and a forest of staghorn, lettuce, and foliose corals created a vibrant underwater landscape.

South Twin Reef delivered even more action with partner shrimps and peacock mantis shrimps scurrying along the sandy patches. Juvenile triggerfish flicked between coral heads while gold-saddle rabbitfish fed in tight groups. Four dogtooth tunas shot past in formation. Blue dragon nudibranchs were scattered everywhere, and the reef was alive with lined and stripe-bristletooth surgeonfish. A Jenkins ray rested on the sand beside a blue-spotted stingray, while yellow-edge and giant morays watched from shaded holes. An octopus shifted colours as we approached, and juvenile oriental sweetlips wiggled in their rhythmic dance. We ended the dive drifting over beautiful table corals and elegant funnel corals.

Day octopus

Peacock mantis shrimps

colorful nudibranch of Mergui Archipelago

That evening’s blackwater dive was a mesmerising drift over the deep. Squid zipped through our lights while baby scribbled filefish floated in their larval form. A banded sea snake surprised us with a rare mid-water visit. Transparent larval shrimps, lobsters, crabs, and mantis shrimps hovered like tiny spacecraft, and pteropods and flying-gurnard larvae pulsed through the darkness.

flying-gurnard larvae pulsed through the darkness

flying-gurnard on a Blackwater

Comb jelly on a blackwater dive

Day 4 — Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Our two dives at Sea Fan Forest were spectacular. We explored towering forests of gorgonians where another tigertail seahorse clung to the branches. Yellow-lined and neon fusiliers filled the water column, pursued by rainbow runners weaving through the openings. We found several octopus, stonefish, and devil scorpionfish, along with nudibranchs such as Chromodoris, Risbecia annulata, and Geometrica. Zebra morays slithered over the rocks, yellow trumpetfish hovered motionlessly beside sea fans, and peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows. Juvenile boxfish, needlefish, and a perfectly-patterned young emperor angelfish added splashes of colour. A curious cuttlefish rounded off the dive with a gentle display of shifting patterns.

At Western Rocky, we entered the famous cave with octopus and cuttlefish patrolling the entrance. Coral-banded shrimp and red reef crabs clung to the walls, and we spotted a delicate wentletrap snail and a striking Maldivian sponge snail on the sandy floor. Blue dragon nudibranchs added flashes of purple and white as we continued along the reef, passing bannerfish, goatfish, snappers, and butterflyfish enjoying the current.

Our sunset dive around the Western Rocky islets unfolded beautifully as clouds of fusiliers, sergeant majors, and damsels swirled around us. Harlequin shrimps crept delicately over the rocks, and more Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef. White-tongue trevallies chased schools of baitfish, accompanied by scribbled filefish, pyjama surgeonfish, rainbow runners, golden trevallies, and a pack of blacktail barracudas. At one point, two giant morays squeezed together inside the same hole, seemingly unbothered by each other's presence.

Golden strip fusilier

Tiger tail seahorse

Harlequin shrimps crept delicately over the rocks, Western Rocky dive site

Harlequin shrimps hiding well

Cuttlefish, always curious and beautiful

Nudibranch Phyllidia varicosa

Red reef crab

Day 5 — Mantas, Currents & Forest Walls

Back at Dendro’s Peak, we descended along a slope draped in purple soft corals. Yellow-lined, neon, and yellowback fusiliers streamed past in glittering clouds while rainbow runners and mackerel darted along the edges. Bannerfish hovered near coral heads, trevallies patrolled the shallows, and a banded sea snake explored the cracks. Zebra morays peeked out from the reef, and coral groupers hunted through the bommies. A large turtle drifted peacefully overhead — and then the highlight of the day arrived as two magnificent manta rays swept gracefully above us, circling repeatedly.

The afternoon dives at Sea Fan Forest were equally memorable. Fusiliers filled every corner of the reef, and another tigertail seahorse clung to a sea fan. A pharaoh cuttlefish hovered confidently before drifting away into the blue. Pickhandle barracudas and golden trevallies patrolled the sandy patches while batfish, moorish idols, and titan triggerfish appeared throughout the site. A large tiger cowrie, several anthias, wrasses, butterflyfish, and damsels added detail to the coral scene. More octopus and a well-camouflaged stonefish ended the day.

That night’s blackwater dive was exceptionally special, featuring a female paper nautilus drifting like a delicate origami shell. Larval wrasses and tiny fish sheltering inside jellyfish floated through the dark, and we found many larval triggerfish and fish living inside salps — a perfect finale to the drifting night.

Paper nautilus, Blackwater

female paper nautilus drifting like a delicate origami shell

Day 6 — Into Thailand: Surin & Richelieu Rock

We re-entered Thailand in the early hours and cruised south toward Richelieu Rock, where perfect conditions awaited us.
What Makes Richelieu Rock Famous?

A horseshoe-shaped pinnacle covered in purple and pink soft corals
Massive schools of trevallies, barracudas, and snappers
Incredible macro life: ghost pipefish, harlequin shrimps, tiger eggs cowries
Historically known for whale shark sightings
Named after Admiral Andreas du Plessis de Richelieu, a Danish officer who served as Commander-in-Chief of the Royal Siamese Navy — not the French cardinal, despite the popular legend

Our first dive at Richelieu Rock was enchanting. Dense schools of glassfish wrapped the entire reef in a shimmering veil. Longnose emperors worked in tight groups, flashing brilliant colours as they hunted, while giant trevallies, bluefins, white-tongue trevallies, and bigeyes patrolled the edges. Batfish hovered calmly around the cleaning stations, and titan triggerfish bulldozed their way along the bottom. Octopus displayed quick colour changes, and huge potato groupers watched us from between the cracks. White-eye, zebra, and yellow-edge moray eels peeked from the crevices, and tiny tiger-egg cowries clung to sea fans. Nudibranchs including chromodoris and flabellina added delicate splashes of colour while bannerfish, wrasses, dartfish, anthias, and butterflyfish decorated every corner of the reef.

Our night dive at Surin South (Ao Pakkard) offered a different perspective. Giant red crabs prowled the sandy areas, Durban dancing shrimps and marble shrimps flickered under our torches, and boxer-banded shrimps waved their oversized claws. Parrotfish, surgeonfish, and pufferfish were already tucked into their nighttime hideouts, while barracudas sliced through the dark hunting yellowback fusiliers.

Durban dancing shrimps

Great dives = happy divers!

A barracuda gleam in the dark

Marine flatworm, Pseudobiceros

Day 7 — Richelieu, Similans & Koh Tachai

We returned to Richelieu Rock for two more morning dives filled with action. Longnose emperors swam in the shallows where cleaners worked tirelessly around their open mouths. Giant trevallies and chevron barracudas surged through the schools of glassfish. We found beautiful harlequin shrimps, cleaner and orange-spotted pipefish, and several potato groupers cruising the bommies. Boxfish, angelfish, needlefish, cobia, black snapper, and African pompano all made appearances. A large marble ray glided past us to complete the scene.
Similan National Park Highlights

Famous for giant granite boulders and white-sand beaches
Excellent visibility and vivid blue water
Frequent encounters with manta rays, whale sharks, and giant trevallies
Beautiful coral gardens with sea fans, hard corals, and soft coral patches

Our third dive at Koh Tachai brought us into the energetic mix this site is known for. Bluefin trevallies and chevron barracudas hunted in packs while giant trevallies and dogtooth tunas patrolled the deeper zones. Marble groupers rested on the bommies while longfin bannerfish, unicorn surgeonfish, angelfish, and massive swarms of fusiliers filled the reef. Lobsters and snappers hid among the corals, and batfish drifted by in lazy groups.

At Koh Bon, we explored the ridge and bay where hard corals glowed beautifully in the afternoon light. A baby blacktip shark cruised the shallows while an octopus hid in a coral crack. Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef. The dive ended with colourful scenes full of wrasses, goatfish, butterflyfish, damsels, and scorpionfish, with the occasional wahoo and giant moray cruising through the dusk.

Banded coral shrimp

Nudibranche Bornella anguilla

Sexy shrimp and anemones

Glossodoris cincta

Day 8 — Racha Noi to Finish

Our last day took us south to Racha Noi, where Banana Bay offered a relaxed sandy slope with scattered bommies teeming with damsels, redtooth triggerfish, Meyer’s butterflyfish, fiveline and checkered snappers, longbarbel goatfish, squirrelfish, and gold-saddle rabbitfish. A banded sea snake glided along the reef, and a mantis shrimp, guarded closely by its pair of squat shrimps, kept watch from its burrow.
At Manta Reef, we found Glossodoris cincta, a snowflake moray, and several seal-face pufferfish drifting over the sandy bottom. Garden eels swayed in the light current as blue-spotted rays glided past. Butterflyfish, damsels, and a bearded scorpionfish rounded out the dive while yellowback fusiliers danced above in glittering swirls.

Porcelain anemone crab

Beautiful soft coral

Marine hermit crabs

Orange sun coral

A Perfect Journey Across Two Countries

Impeccable MV Smiling Seahorse diving deck

From Myanmar’s caves and giant sea fans to Thailand’s iconic reefs, this trip delivered unforgettable moments: manta rays, seahorses, endless fusiliers, dramatic landscapes, and amazing energy from our guests.
Thank you to our wonderful divers from Israel for sharing this week with us and their wonderful photos to illustrate this blogpost!
See you soon for another adventure with the MV Smiling Seahorse! 🐟💙

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Trip Report: Burma Adventure, Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks - 31 October – 08 November 2025

10/11/2025

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The MV Smiling Seahorse officially launched the new diving season with a second unforgettable adventure across Myanmar’s remote waters — from the mysterious limestone islands of the Mergui Archipelago to the vast, sandy plateaus of the Burma Banks.
Our second group of the season — joining us from France — gathered at the pier in Ranong with bright smiles and even brighter expectations. After completing the immigration formalities and crossing into Myanmar via Kawthung, passports were stamped, bags stowed, and spirits high as we set course into the wild blue.

Day 2 — Warming Up the Fins

Our check dive at High Rock revealed the season’s first treasures: tigertail seahorse, pickhandle barracudas, swirling fusiliers and jacks, peacock mantis shrimps, white-eyed moray eels, Spanish mackerel, and even a curious rainbow runner. Thornback boxfish, pharaoh cuttlefish, and orange-spotted pipefish rounded off the dive — an explosion of colour to start the trip.
The following dives took us to the magical Three Islets:

Dive 2 – “The Square & Shark Cave”: tigertail seahorses, cuttlefish, blue dragons, Durban dancing shrimps, porcelain crabs (one of them carrying eggs!) , zebra and banded snake eels, and playful cleaner pipefish.
Dive 3 – “Submarine & Shark Cave”: the tunnels echoed with life — yellowtail barracudas, golden trevallies, a gliding eagle ray, tomato anemonefish, tigertail seahorse, a stonefish, a bamboo shark, and several moray eels.

Our night dive at Shark Cave & Square was pure magic — nine tigertail seahorses, including some mating! Add to that toadfish, cone snails on the move, sleeping parrotfish, soldierfish, and crustaceans galore — a proper nocturnal parade.
That night, the Smiling Seahorse pointed her bow north toward the legendary Black Rock.

Day 3 — The Kingdom of Currents: Black Rock

Four dives in total, each more electric than the last. One lucky group spotted a manta ray early in the day, while others drifted among eagle rays, cobias, tunas, yellowtail barracudas, and dense schools of bigeye trevallies.
Amid the action, we admired white devil scorpionfish, octopus, peacock mantis shrimps, lionfish, and patches of vibrant soft corals home to butterflyfish and wrasses.
A sunset dive sealed the day — schools of sergeant fish guarding their eggs, bannerfish, snappers, and reef octopus emerging as the light faded.

Day 4 — North Twin & South Twin

North Twin Pinnacle: barracudas, fusiliers, red snappers, and a few dogtooth tunas gliding in the blue.
At North Twin Reef, we crossed paths with broadclub cuttlefish, banded sea snakes, giant morays, mantis shrimps, and vibrant corals where angelfish, triggerfish, and surgeonfish danced in the current.
At South Twin Reef, two dives revealed Maldivian sponge snails, marbled groupers, schools of surgeonfish, pyjama surgeonfish, juvenile sweetlips, a fleeting whitetip reef shark, blue ribbon eels, and another elegant wahoo cruising by.
As the sun dipped, we turned our compass westward toward the open ocean — and the mythical Burma Banks.

Day 5 — Into the Blue: The Great Burma Banks

The Roe Bank welcomed us with two nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a graceful mangrove whipray, and dogtooth tunas patrolling the edges.
At Coral Bank, the spectacle continued: more nurse sharks, a marble ray, honeycomb moray eels, and a bustling coral city alive with emperor and royal angelfish, neon fusiliers, powder-blue sergeants, velvet surgeonfish, clown triggerfish, trevallies, and Napoleon wrasses.
Even the safety stops were lively — schools of jacks and snappers swirling in golden light.

Day 6 — Rainbow & Silvertip Banks

The two morning dives at Rainbow Bank were a perfect blend of serenity and adrenaline. Marble rays, nurse sharks snoozing under bommies, clouds of fusiliers, surgeonfish, tunas, great barracudas, royal angelfish, giant sweetlips, potato groupers, and grey reef sharks filled the blue.
A third dive at Silvertip Bank offered encounters with Napoleon wrasses, grey reef sharks, and another nurse shark gliding past gracefully.
One group opted for a sunset dive among vibrant reef life — bannerfish, butterflyfish, wrasses, and anthias painting the scene — while the rest of the guests embarked on a surreal blackwater dive, drifting with larval anemonefish, eel larvae, stargazers, pyrosomes, siphonophores, venus girdles, and glowing comb jellies under the stars.

diving the burma banks incredible coral reef

Day 7 — Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

At Sea Fan Forest, enormous gorgonians lined the reef like underwater cathedrals. Neon fusiliers, trevallies, glassfish, pickhandle barracudas, and curious mantis shrimps mingled with stonefish, anemone crabs, and longnose hawkfish.
At Western Rocky, the current brought white-tongue trevallies, yellowfin barracudas, and marble shrimps out to play.
Our night dive at Western Rocky was a treasure hunt — sleeping trevallies, massive sponge crabs, feather star squat lobsters, giant morays, tiny shrimps on whip coral, coral cowries, phenacovolva snails, and even a sea butterfly fluttering through the torchlight.

We enjoyed a delicious barbecue dinner that night, featuring spare ribs, hand-cut French fries, tomates à la provençale, a fresh salad assortment, grilled chicken wings and sausages, along with potatoes en robe des champs served with a rich garlic butter.

Eating barbecue on my Myanmar liveaboard

a barbecue on my scuba diving liveaboard

Day 8 — Return to Western Rocky

Back at Sea Fan Forest, we spotted lionfish, devil scorpionfish, a fimbriated moray sharing its crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
Our final dives at Eagle Rock, The Cave, and The Islets revealed pickhandle barracudas, longnose emperors, dogtooth tunas, boxfish, porcupinefish, nudibranchs like Chromodoris reticulata and Glossodoris cincta, harlequin shrimps, leopard morays, rainbow runners, and Napoleon wrasses.

Day 9 — Farewell Dive at Dendro’s Peak

Our final dive brought a fitting finale: schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, a majestic great barracuda, banded sea snake, and one last fimbriated moray waving us goodbye.
With our tanks empty but our hearts full, we headed back to Kawthaung for our traditional Burmese beers, immigration clearance, and the sail back to Ranong.
The second expedition of the season was everything we’d hoped for — thrilling dives, wonderful guests, and the timeless magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks. A big thank you to our wonderful guests for illustrating this blogpost with their photos!
Until next time — see you underwater aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse!

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Trip Report: Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks, 21st-29th October 2025

31/10/2025

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The MV Smiling Seahorse kicked off the new diving season with a spectacular journey through the remote waters of Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago and the legendary Burma Banks. Departing from Ranong, our first group of adventurers — joining us from France, Switzerland, Belgium, Ireland, the US, and the UK — gathered with excitement at the pier.
After check-in, we completed the usual immigration formalities in Ranong before crossing the border to Kawthung, Myanmar. With passports stamped and smiles all around, we set course toward the mysterious Mergui Archipelago — a place of dramatic limestone and granit boulder islands, lush jungle cliffs, and some of the most vibrant underwater life in the Andaman Sea.

Beautiful underwater scene in Mergui Archipelago

vibrant underwater life in the Andaman Sea

Day 2 — Into the Blue

Our check dive at High Rock was the perfect start, offering calm conditions and an easy descent into a thriving coral reef. Among the swaying soft corals, we spotted oriental sweetlips, butterflyfish, blue damsels, and curious bannerfish darting between the rocks — a beautiful welcome back to Burmese waters.
Our second dive took us to Three Islets (Square), alive with action! Schools of fusiliers and white tongue jacks swirled above the reef, while a tigertail seahorse and an orange-spotted pipefish delighted our macro enthusiasts. Blue-lined snappers, Moorish idols, and a few playful anemonefish added even more colour to the scene.
Dive three at Three Islets (Shark Cave) brought strong surges, so we explored around the island instead of entering the cave. The current carried schools of pickhandle barracudas past walls of soft corals where tomato anemonefish guarded their homes.
For the night dive, we returned to Shark Cave. Under torchlight, we found barracudas cruising the dark, parrotfish sleeping soundly in their mucus bubbles, a seal-face pufferfish tucked into a crack, and a curious pharaoh cuttlefish. We also encountered soldierfish, cardinalfish, and a few colourful wrasses hunting under the beams of our lights.
That night, we set sail toward the famous Black Rock.

Com jelly, ctenophore, Blackwater diving in Burma

Day 3 — The Majesty of Black Rock

At sunrise, we descended on Black Rock’s north side, greeted by schools of bigeye jacks, barracudas, lionfish, and snapper clouds drifting in the blue.
Our second dive on the south side was pure magic — mantas! Not one, but four graceful oceanic manta rays soared through the current, looping and gliding as dogtooth tunas patrolled below.
The third and fourth dives kept the action going, with dense schools of jacks, fusiliers, and surgeonfish swirling through the water column. A leopard moray eel peeked from a crevice during the sunset dive, a perfect finale to a spectacular day.

Sun corals, Tubastreaea sp, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Day 4 — North Twin Wonders

North Twin Pinnacle — the current-fed site teeming with barracudas, fusiliers, and red snappers. We admired tiger egg cowries, moray eels, and a few curious dogtooth tunas cruising by.
At North Twin Reef, we met a banded sea snake weaving through coral bommies, an octopus changing colours before our eyes, and a squad of batfish gliding gracefully in the blue. Mantis shrimps and lobsters completed the day’s macro highlights.
After our final dive, the Smiling Seahorse set course westward for the Burma Banks — a legendary chain of submerged plateaus rising from the depths of the Andaman Sea, located about 180 km offshore. These vast, remote reefs are known for their big pelagic life and pristine coral formations.

Porcelain crab in Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar

Blue bell tunicates, North Twin, Mergui Archipelago

Giant moray eel in Mergui Archipelago, Burma

Day 5 — The Great Burma Banks

Our first dives at Roe Bank revealed a world of giants — several nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a mangrove whipray, and schooling black surgeonfish weaving around coral heads. Dogtooth tunas patrolled the outer slopes, keeping smaller reef fish in constant motion.
At Rainbow Bank, the spectacle continued — nurse sharks again, a stunning marble ray, three honeycomb moray eels, and a vibrant reef alive with emperor angelfish, surgeonfish, batfish, and butterflyfish. A Maldives sponge snail was spotted nestled among the corals — a treat for our keen-eyed photographers.

Honeycomb muray eel in Mergui Archipelago

Day 6 — Coral and Silvertip Banks

The morning dives at Coral Bank lived up to its name — hard corals in excellent condition, surrounded by nurse sharks, whitetip reef sharks, and a flurry of wrasses, triggerfish, and parrotfish.
At Silvertip Banks, the energy was palpable. Grey reef sharks patrolled the plateau, nurse sharks lounged near coral heads, and a swimming zebra shark passed by trough clouds of anthias, surgeonfish, and bannerfish shimmered in the current.

Day 7 — Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Back among the islands, we explored Sea Fan Forest, where enormous gorgonian fans hosted ghost pipefish and schools of fusiliers and trevallies.
At Western Rocky Eagle Rock, large schools of white tongue trevallies and yellowfin barracudas filled the blue, while marble shrimps hid in the cracks.
Our sunset dive in Western Rocky Cave brought us face to face with two Glossodoris nudibranch protecting its eggs, curious cuttlefish, and colourful reef fish preparing for nightfall.

Golden mantis shrimp, Mergui Archipelago, Burma

Black tipped grouper, Mergui Archipelago

Day 8 — Western Rocky Finale

We returned to Sea Fan Forest in the morning, spotting lionfish, devil scorpionfish, and a stunning fimbriated moray eel sharing a crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
At Western Rocky Cave, a beautiful Chromodoris nudibranch added a pop of colour, while the final dives at Eagle Rock delivered dramatic cuttlefish mating and fighting scenes, plus a rare Pikachu nudibranch — the perfect finale for our photographers!

Devil scorpionfish in Sea Fan Forest, Mergui Archipelago

fimbriated moray eel in Mergui Archipelago, Burma

Chromodoris nudibranch in Western Rocky, Mergui Archipelago

Mantis shrimp in Western Rocky, Mergui Archipelago

Day 9 — Farewell Dive

Our last dive at Dendro’s Peak brought one more burst of colour — schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, and even a curious yellow boxfish to send us off.
With the dives complete, we headed back toward Kawthung for our traditional Burmese beers and final immigration clearance before returning to Ranong. The first trip of the season set the tone perfectly — thrilling dives, great company, and the magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks welcoming us back once again.
See you underwater on our next adventure with MV Smiling Seahorse!

Spotted boxfish, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar

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Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago ​

Day 2 – South Twin, Boulder Rock & North Twin

Day 3 – Black Rock ​

Day 4 – Shark Cave, Square Rock & Submarine ​

Day 5 – Burma Banks & Blackwater ​

Day 6 – Roe, Coral & Silvertip Bank

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Day 8 – Western Rocky & BBQ Night

Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Return to Ranong ​

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago​

Day 2 – High Rock​

Day 3 & 4 – Black Rock

Day 5 – Three Islets & Crossing to the Burma Banks

Day 6 – Burma Banks

Day 7 – Burma Banks ​

Day 8 – Seafan Forest & Western Rocky

Manta Ray at Black Rock | Camille Rovillain

Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell ​

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago​

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs​

Day 3 – Black Rock​

Day 4 – Three Islets & Sailing to the Burma Banks​

Day 5 – Burma Banks​

Day 6 – Burma Banks​

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky​

Day 9 – Volcano (Shark Lagoon) & Farewell​

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago ​

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs ​

Day 3 – Black Rock ​

Day 4 – Three Islets & Crossing to the Burma Banks ​

Day 5 – Burma Banks ​

Day 6 – Western Rocky ​

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest ​

Blackwater Diving | Myanmar

Day 8 – Dendro’s Peak & Western Rocky ​

Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell ​

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago​

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs​

Day 3 – Black Rock​

Day 4 – Three Islets​

Day 5 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky​

Day 6 – Dendro’s Peak, Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky​

Day 7 – Volcano & Return to Civilisation​

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs​

Day 3 – Black Rock​

Day 4 – Three Islets & Sailing to the Burma Banks​

Day 5 – Burma Banks​

Day 6 – Burma Banks next

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky​

Day 8 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell​

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago​

Day 2 – Twin Reefs & First Blackwater​

Day 3 – Black Rock: Giants and Night Lights​

Day 4 – Three Islets to the Burma Banks​

Day 5 – Row Bank and a Change of Plans​

Day 6 – Western Rocky & Sea Fan Forest​

Day 7 – Western Rocky in Full​

Day 8 – Dendro’s Peak and Farewell​

Day 2 — Mergui’s First Wonders

Day 3 — Twin Islands & Blackwater Magic

Day 4 — Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Day 5 — Mantas, Currents & Forest Walls

Day 6 — Into Thailand: Surin & Richelieu Rock

Day 7 — Richelieu, Similans & Koh Tachai

Day 8 — Racha Noi to Finish

A Perfect Journey Across Two Countries

​Day 2 — Warming Up the Fins

​Day 3 — The Kingdom of Currents: Black Rock

​Day 4 — North Twin & South Twin

​Day 5 — Into the Blue: The Great Burma Banks

​Day 6 — Rainbow & Silvertip Banks

​Day 7 — Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

​Day 8 — Return to Western Rocky

​Day 9 — Farewell Dive at Dendro’s Peak

Day 2 — Into the Blue

Day 3 — The Majesty of Black Rock

Day 4 — North Twin Wonders

Day 5 — The Great Burma Banks

Day 6 — Coral and Silvertip Banks

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

Day 3 – Black Rock

Day 4 – Shark Cave, Square Rock & Submarine

Day 5 – Burma Banks & Blackwater

Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Return to Ranong

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

Day 2 – High Rock

Day 7 – Burma Banks

Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs

Day 3 – Black Rock

Day 4 – Three Islets & Sailing to the Burma Banks

Day 5 – Burma Banks

Day 6 – Burma Banks

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Day 9 – Volcano (Shark Lagoon) & Farewell

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs

Day 3 – Black Rock

Day 4 – Three Islets & Crossing to the Burma Banks

Day 5 – Burma Banks

Day 6 – Western Rocky

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest

Day 8 – Dendro’s Peak & Western Rocky

Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs

Day 3 – Black Rock

Day 4 – Three Islets

Day 5 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Day 6 – Dendro’s Peak, Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Day 7 – Volcano & Return to Civilisation

Day 2 – South & North Twin Reefs

Day 3 – Black Rock

Day 4 – Three Islets & Sailing to the Burma Banks

Day 5 – Burma Banks

Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Day 8 – Dendro’s Peak & Farewell

Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago

Day 2 – Twin Reefs & First Blackwater

Day 3 – Black Rock: Giants and Night Lights

Day 4 – Three Islets to the Burma Banks

Day 5 – Row Bank and a Change of Plans

Day 6 – Western Rocky & Sea Fan Forest

Day 7 – Western Rocky in Full

Day 8 – Dendro’s Peak and Farewell

Day 2 — Warming Up the Fins

Day 3 — The Kingdom of Currents: Black Rock

Day 4 — North Twin & South Twin

Day 5 — Into the Blue: The Great Burma Banks

Day 6 — Rainbow & Silvertip Banks

Day 7 — Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

Day 8 — Return to Western Rocky

Day 9 — Farewell Dive at Dendro’s Peak