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Trip Report: Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks, 21st-29th October 2025

31/10/2025

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​The MV Smiling Seahorse kicked off the new diving season with a spectacular journey through the remote waters of Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago and the legendary Burma Banks. Departing from Ranong, our first group of adventurers — joining us from France, Switzerland, Belgium, Ireland, the US, and the UK — gathered with excitement at the pier.
After check-in, we completed the usual immigration formalities in Ranong before crossing the border to Kawthung, Myanmar. With passports stamped and smiles all around, we set course toward the mysterious Mergui Archipelago — a place of dramatic limestone and granit boulder islands, lush jungle cliffs, and some of the most vibrant underwater life in the Andaman Sea.
Beautiful underwater scene in Mergui Archipelago
vibrant underwater life in the Andaman Sea

Day 2 — Into the Blue

​Our check dive at High Rock was the perfect start, offering calm conditions and an easy descent into a thriving coral reef. Among the swaying soft corals, we spotted oriental sweetlips, butterflyfish, blue damsels, and curious bannerfish darting between the rocks — a beautiful welcome back to Burmese waters.
Our second dive took us to Three Islets (Square), alive with action! Schools of fusiliers and white tongue jacks swirled above the reef, while a tigertail seahorse and an orange-spotted pipefish delighted our macro enthusiasts. Blue-lined snappers, Moorish idols, and a few playful anemonefish added even more colour to the scene.
Dive three at Three Islets (Shark Cave) brought strong surges, so we explored around the island instead of entering the cave. The current carried schools of pickhandle barracudas past walls of soft corals where tomato anemonefish guarded their homes.
For the night dive, we returned to Shark Cave. Under torchlight, we found barracudas cruising the dark, parrotfish sleeping soundly in their mucus bubbles, a seal-face pufferfish tucked into a crack, and a curious pharaoh cuttlefish. We also encountered soldierfish, cardinalfish, and a few colourful wrasses hunting under the beams of our lights.
That night, we set sail toward the famous Black Rock.
Leopard muray eel in Mergui Archipelago
Sea urchin eye
Blue Dragon nudibranche
Com jelly, ctenophore, Blackwater diving in Burma
Jellyfish, Blackwater diving in Myanmar

Day 3 — The Majesty of Black Rock

​At sunrise, we descended on Black Rock’s north side, greeted by schools of bigeye jacks, barracudas, lionfish, and snapper clouds drifting in the blue.
Our second dive on the south side was pure magic — mantas! Not one, but four graceful oceanic manta rays soared through the current, looping and gliding as dogtooth tunas patrolled below.
The third and fourth dives kept the action going, with dense schools of jacks, fusiliers, and surgeonfish swirling through the water column. A leopard moray eel peeked from a crevice during the sunset dive, a perfect finale to a spectacular day.
Clark clownfish, Amphiprion Clarkii
Sun corals, Tubastreaea sp, Andaman Sea liveaboard

Day 4 — North Twin Wonders

​North Twin Pinnacle — the current-fed site teeming with barracudas, fusiliers, and red snappers. We admired tiger  egg cowries, moray eels, and a few curious dogtooth tunas cruising by.
At North Twin Reef, we met a banded sea snake weaving through coral bommies, an octopus changing colours before our eyes, and a squad of batfish gliding gracefully in the blue. Mantis shrimps and lobsters completed the day’s macro highlights.
After our final dive, the Smiling Seahorse set course westward for the Burma Banks — a legendary chain of submerged plateaus rising from the depths of the Andaman Sea, located about 180 km offshore. These vast, remote reefs are known for their big pelagic life and pristine coral formations.
Porcelain crab in Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
Blue bell tunicates, North Twin, Mergui Archipelago
Giant moray eel in Mergui Archipelago, Burma

Day 5 — The Great Burma Banks

​Our first dives at Roe Bank revealed a world of giants — several nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a mangrove whipray, and schooling black surgeonfish weaving around coral heads. Dogtooth tunas patrolled the outer slopes, keeping smaller reef fish in constant motion.
At Rainbow Bank, the spectacle continued — nurse sharks again, a stunning marble ray, three honeycomb moray eels, and a vibrant reef alive with emperor angelfish, surgeonfish, batfish, and butterflyfish. A Maldives sponge snail was spotted nestled among the corals — a treat for our keen-eyed photographers.
Honeycomb muray eel in Mergui Archipelago
White eyes moray eels at Burma banks
Nurse shark in Burma Banks, Myanmar

Day 6 — Coral and Silvertip Banks

​The morning dives at Coral Bank lived up to its name — hard corals in excellent condition, surrounded by nurse sharks, whitetip reef sharks, and a flurry of wrasses, triggerfish, and parrotfish.
At Silvertip Banks, the energy was palpable. Grey reef sharks patrolled the plateau, nurse sharks lounged near coral heads, and a swimming zebra shark passed by trough clouds of anthias, surgeonfish, and bannerfish shimmered in the current.
Surgeonfish at Silvertip Banks
Anemone fish

Day 7 — Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky

​Back among the islands, we explored Sea Fan Forest, where enormous gorgonian fans hosted ghost pipefish and schools of fusiliers and trevallies.
At Western Rocky Eagle Rock, large schools of white tongue trevallies and yellowfin barracudas filled the blue, while marble shrimps hid in the cracks.
Our sunset dive in Western Rocky Cave brought us face to face with two Glossodoris nudibranch protecting its eggs, curious cuttlefish, and colourful reef fish preparing for nightfall.
enormous gorgonian fans hosted ghost pipefish
Golden mantis shrimp, Mergui Archipelago, Burma
Black tipped grouper, Mergui Archipelago
Glossodoris nudibranch in Western Rocky

Day 8 — Western Rocky Finale

​We returned to Sea Fan Forest in the morning, spotting lionfish, devil scorpionfish, and a stunning fimbriated moray eel sharing a crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
At Western Rocky Cave, a beautiful Chromodoris nudibranch added a pop of colour, while the final dives at Eagle Rock delivered dramatic cuttlefish mating and fighting scenes, plus a rare Pikachu nudibranch — the perfect finale for our photographers!
Devil scorpionfish in Sea Fan Forest, Mergui Archipelago
fimbriated moray eel in Mergui Archipelago, Burma
Lionfish, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
Beautiful cuttlefish in Myanmar
Chromodoris nudibranch in Western Rocky, Mergui Archipelago
Mantis shrimp in Western Rocky, Mergui Archipelago

Day 9 — Farewell Dive

Our last dive at Dendro’s Peak brought one more burst of colour — schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, and even a curious yellow boxfish to send us off.
With the dives complete, we headed back toward Kawthung for our traditional Burmese beers and final immigration clearance before returning to Ranong. The first trip of the season set the tone perfectly — thrilling dives, great company, and the magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks welcoming us back once again.
See you underwater on our next adventure with MV Smiling Seahorse!
Spotted boxfish, Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
Parrotfish eye
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10 Alien Creatures You’ll Only Encounter While Blackwater Diving

20/9/2025

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​After sunset, the Andaman Sea between Thailand and Myanmar transforms into a mysterious, living galaxy. Beneath the surface, beyond coral reefs and moonlit shallows, unfolds the planet’s largest nightly migration — as billions of deep-sea creatures rise from the abyss in search of food.
Blackwater diving offers a front-row seat to this breathtaking phenomenon. Suspended in the inky darkness by a tether line and surrounded by carefully placed lights, divers float above hundreds of meters of open ocean — face-to-face with glowing jellyfish, larval fish, paper-thin cephalopods, and other strange, rarely seen life forms.

What makes Blackwater Diving So Special?

Because it is offshore, ​Blackwater diving isn’t your regular night dive. It’s a window into the mesopelagic zone — the twilight zone of the ocean where light barely penetrates, and bioluminescence reigns supreme. Every night, marine larvae and deep-sea organisms make brief appearances near the water surface. Each dive is unpredictable, filled with fleeting encounters that might never happen again.
Whether you're in the Andaman Sea or Blackwater diving elsewhere, these are the 10 of the most extraordinary pelagic creatures divers may only encounter on blackwater dives.

​1. Blanket Octopus (Tremoctopus spp.)  

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​The Blanket Octopus (Tremoctopus spp.) is a striking deep-sea cephalopod known for the large, web-like membranes that trail from the arms of females, resembling a flowing blanket. This structure is used for defense, making the octopus appear larger to predators. Females can grow over 2 meters long, while males are tiny, rarely exceeding a few centimeters—one of the most extreme examples of sexual size dimorphism in the animal kingdom. Found in warm open oceans worldwide, Blanket Octopuses are solitary and rarely seen. They are capable swimmers and can detach parts of their web to distract threats. Remarkably, some use the stinging tentacles of Portuguese man o’ war as tools for defense and hunting.

2. Ctenophores (Comb Jellies)

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​Comb jellies are among the longest-roaming invertebrate marine creatures on planet Earth. These carnivorous and voracious predators are delicate and gelatinous in structure. They possess eight rows of cilia-bearing plates used for “combing” and propelling themselves through the water. These plates can also produce and refract low levels of light.
Their bodies are composed of more than 95% water and lack respiratory, circulatory, excretory, and skeletal systems. Some species, such as Beroe forskalii, have a mouth used for biting prey — often other ctenophores — and anal pores for excretion.
Other species feature two tentacles covered with sticky cells called colloblasts, which are used to snare prey and draw it toward their mouths. Digestion occurs when enzymes liquefy the captured prey, with the remains expelled either through the mouth or the anal pores.

3. Eel Larvea

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Eel larvae, known as leptocephali, are the transparent, ribbon-like early life stage of many marine eel species. Unlike typical fish larvae, leptocephali are laterally compressed, leaf-shaped, and nearly invisible in the water, offering excellent camouflage in the open ocean. They drift with currents for extended periods—sometimes months or years—feeding on dissolved organic matter and marine snow. During this pelagic phase, they grow before undergoing metamorphosis into the more cylindrical "glass eel" stage. From there, they begin their migration toward coastal habitats. The leptocephalus stage reflects the eel’s complex life cycle and plays a key role in marine ecosystems as both predator and prey.

4. Paper Nautilus (Argonauta argo)

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The Paper Nautilus (Argonauta argo) is a rare pelagic octopus known for the delicate, paper-thin shell produced by females. Unlike true nautiluses, this shell is not for protection but serves as an egg case and buoyancy aid. Females can grow up to 30 cm and are significantly larger than the tiny, shell-less males. A. argo lives near the ocean surface and is found in warm and temperate seas worldwide. It preys on small crustaceans and jellyfish, using its webbed arms to capture food. The species is known for its graceful movement and is often seen floating or drifting with ocean currents. Despite its fragile appearance, the Paper Nautilus is a highly adapted and mysterious cephalopod, captivating scientists and divers alike with its unique reproductive behavior and ephemeral beauty.

5. Tripod Fish Larvae

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Tripod Fish
Youtube

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Tripod fish larvae are the juvenile form of deep-sea tripod fish, typically belonging to the genus Bathypterois. Unlike their adult counterparts, which rest on the seafloor using elongated fin rays like stilts, the larvae are pelagic and drift in the open ocean. They are nearly transparent, with soft, delicate bodies adapted for life in the water column. As they develop, the characteristic elongated pelvic and caudal fin rays begin to form, eventually enabling the unique tripod stance seen in adults. These larvae feed on plankton and rely on ocean currents for transport. Their transition from free-floating juveniles to benthic ambush predators is one of the many fascinating adaptations of deep-sea life, reflecting the complexity of marine developmental stages in extreme environments.


6. Snake Blenny Larvae

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Snake blennies 
Blackwater diving - YouTube
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Snake blenny larvae are the early life stage of elongated, eel-like fish in the family Stichaeidae, found in cold and temperate marine waters. Unlike the benthic adults that dwell near rocky or sandy substrates, the larvae are pelagic, drifting in the upper ocean layers. They are nearly transparent, with slender, ribbon-like bodies that offer camouflage from predators. Their large eyes and minimal pigmentation help them navigate and feed on microscopic plankton. As they grow, they begin to develop the characteristic elongated dorsal and anal fins of adult snake blennies. This transformation from a drifting larva to a bottom-dwelling fish illustrates the complex life cycle of many marine species, adapted for survival in both pelagic and benthic zones.

7. Amphipods

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​Amphipods are small, shrimp-like crustaceans found in marine, freshwater, and even terrestrial environments. With laterally compressed bodies and no carapace, they range in size from a few millimeters to several centimeters. Amphipods are incredibly diverse, with over 10,000 known species, including pelagic, benthic, and parasitic forms. They play vital ecological roles as scavengers, herbivores, and prey for larger animals. Many species live among algae, sediment, or detritus, while others, like deep-sea amphipods, inhabit extreme environments. Their bodies are segmented, with distinct head, thorax, and abdomen regions, and equipped with specialized limbs for swimming, burrowing, or clinging. Amphipods are key contributors to nutrient cycling and food webs across ecosystems.

8. Pelagic Seahorses (Hippocampus spp.)

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Pelagic Seahorse
Blackwater diving - YouTube
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Pelagic seahorses (Hippocampus spp.) are a rare group of seahorses that live in the open ocean, drifting with currents rather than anchoring to reefs or vegetation like most of their relatives. These seahorses are often found clinging to floating debris, seaweed, or Sargassum, using their prehensile tails for stability. Their bodies are upright, armored with bony plates, and capable of subtle color changes for camouflage. Pelagic seahorses feed on tiny planktonic crustaceans, sucking them in through their tubular snouts. Males carry fertilized eggs in a specialized brood pouch until giving birth to fully formed young. Their life in the open sea makes them difficult to study, but they are a vital part of surface marine ecosystems.

9. Larval Flounder

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Flounder
Blackwater diving - YouTube
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The larval stage of flounders marks a dramatic transformation in these flatfish. After hatching, flounder larvae are symmetrical and free-swimming, resembling typical fish with an eye on each side of the head. As they develop, a unique metamorphosis occurs: one eye migrates to the opposite side, and the body flattens to adapt to a benthic lifestyle. During this stage, larvae drift in the plankton-rich upper ocean, feeding on microscopic organisms. Their bodies are mostly transparent, aiding in camouflage from predators. Once metamorphosis is complete, the juvenile flounder settles on the seafloor, lying on its blind side. This complex development allows flounders to exploit both pelagic and benthic environments during their life cycle.

10. Squid Larvea

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Inshore Squid
​Blackwater diving - YouTube
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Squid larvae, also known as paralarvae, are the early life stage of squids, emerging from eggs as miniature, free-swimming versions of adults. They are planktonic, drifting in the upper layers of the ocean where they feed on microscopic organisms. These larvae are transparent or semi-transparent, aiding in camouflage, and possess large eyes and developing tentacles. Unlike true larvae, squid paralarvae do not undergo a complete metamorphosis but gradually grow into their adult form. As they mature, they develop the muscular mantle, chromatophores, and jet propulsion used in adult locomotion. Squid larvae play a vital role in marine food webs, serving as prey for fish and other predators while beginning their own journey as agile hunters.

Blackwater Dive Briefing – Safety, Awareness & Expectations

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​Blackwater diving is a thrilling and unique experience, but it requires preparation, awareness, and respect for others in the water to ensure a smooth and enjoyable dive for everyone.
​
What to Expect:
 You’ll be tethered to a central downline, suspended in open water hundreds of meters deep, surrounded by darkness and illuminated only by strobes or torches. The environment can be disorienting at first, but it’s also incredibly exhilarating—offering glimpses of rare pelagic life.

​Safety & Prerequisites:
●  This dive is not for beginners—advanced certification and solid buoyancy control are essential.
●      Prior night diving experience is strongly recommended.
●      Always stay aware of your depth and proximity to the downline.
For underwater photography, use a red focus light to avoid scaring away the animals.

​Diver Etiquette & Spatial Awareness:
●   Be mindful of your light control—waving your torch around can disturb marine life and irritate other divers. Avoid shining it in other people's eyes, especially when pupils are fully dilated in the dark.
●     Always be conscious of your 3D space: move slowly, maintain vertical awareness, and never swim directly under another diver—your bubbles can scare off the subjects they’re observing.
●      It's helpful to coordinate depth zones among divers during the briefing, allowing everyone enough room and reducing overlap. Agreeing on a depth rotation plan can also enhance everyone’s experience.

Personal Tip:

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There’s no perfect depth—what works for one diver may not work for another. I find it useful to explore away from the group and return regularly to the main line. This gives space for quiet observation while maintaining a safe reference point.
Stay calm, be respectful, and enjoy the mysterious magic of the blackwater world.
​

When and Where to Dive

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In the Andaman Sea, between Thailand and Myanmar, we’ve been spotting more critters during the full moon — when tidal movement is at its peak.

​While blackwater diving is technically possible year-round, we only offer it during the national park season, which runs from October to May.

​All our cruises include one FREE blackwater dive
when conditions are safe and suitable!

Book Your Blackwater Adventure!

Ready to go beyond the reef and into the unknown? Blackwater diving is an unforgettable highlight of any dive trip — a surreal mix of science, mystery, and raw ocean wonder. Witness alien-like creatures rise from the depths in an experience like no other.
​
Check our cruise schedule and find the perfect departure to experience this one-of-a-kind dive...
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All about the Ornate Ghost Pipefish – The Reef Phantom

17/6/2025

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So delicate, they vanish into coral shadows. So rare, even seasoned divers celebrate a glimpse. Meet the mysterious beauty haunting the reefs of the Andaman Sea: the Ornate Ghost Pipefish.

🎭 Master of Disguise: What Is an Ornate Ghost Pipefish?

The Ornate Ghost Pipefish (Solenostomus paradoxus) is one of the ocean’s most captivating illusions. Though related to seahorses and pipefish, it belongs to a distinct family--Solenostomidae—and lives a life defined by camouflage, elegance, and enigma.
Ornate ghost pipefish in Andaman Sea, Thailand
often mimic crinoids (feather stars), soft corals, or seaweed
These reef phantoms range from 5–12 cm in length and sport a tubular snout, delicate fins, and intricate coloration that blends seamlessly with their environment. Their shape and texture often mimic crinoids (feather stars), soft corals, or seaweed, allowing them to vanish in plain sight.
Ornate ghost pipefish in Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
Orange ornate ghost pipefish
What truly sets them apart, however, is how they float motionlessly, head-down, mimicking bits of drifting sea matter. To the untrained eye, they’re practically invisible.

🔍 Where to Spot One: Habitat & Behavior

Ornate ghost pipefish behind soft coral
​You’ll most likely find Ornate Ghost Pipefish in sheltered, sandy areas of coral reefs, especially:
​
  • Among crinoids, which they mimic with startling accuracy
  • Hanging near soft coral fans or gorgonians
  • Close to the reef bottom, where they can hover in the current unnoticed

​They prefer calm conditions and tend to show up in specific sites year after year, often returning to similar spots when conditions are right.

🌊 Top Dive Sites to See Them:
Shark Cave (Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar), Richelieu Rock, Hin Daeng, Hin Muang (Andaman Sea Thailand)
Ornate ghost pipefish almost invisible in front of seafan
2 ornate ghost pipefish approaching beautiful gorgonians
ghost pipefish, gorgonians and glass fish

📆 Best Time to See Them: November to April

Ornate Ghost Pipefish are seasonal, most commonly seen during the dry season in the Andaman Sea Thailand and Burma:

🗓
November – April


This period offers the
best visibility, warm waters, and calm seas—perfect for spotting elusive macro life.

Fascinating ornate ghost pipefish and beautiful gorgonians

🔬 The Life Cycle & Reproduction of a Ghost

What makes the Ornate Ghost Pipefish even more fascinating is its reproductive biology, which differs significantly from most reef fish.
Ornate ghost pipefish in Mergui Archipelago

beautiful ornate ghost pipefish portrait

💑 Courtship & Mating

During the breeding season, usually aligned with peak visibility months, males and females pair up and are often seen drifting side-by-side in gentle currents. Their courtship is subtle, consisting of synchronized movements and gentle displays.

🥚 Unique Egg-Carrying Behavior

The female takes on the primary reproductive role—not only producing the eggs but also carrying them.

  • Her pelvic fins fuse to form a specialized brood pouch—a kind of open "sac" where she stores fertilized eggs.
 
  • She can carry up to several dozen eggs at a time, offering them protection and oxygenation through gentle fin movement.

This behavior is rare in fish and more commonly associated with their relatives, the seahorses (where males carry eggs). In ghost pipefish, however, it’s the female who guards and nurtures the young.
Ornate ghost pipefish with eggs
Pregnant ornate ghost pipefish
Ornate ghost pipefish belly with eggs
Ghost pipefish with eggs

🐣 Hatching & Lifespan

After incubation (a period of roughly 1–2 weeks, depending on temperature), the tiny larvae are released into the water column. These larvae are planktonic—drifting with ocean currents, vulnerable to predators and the environment.
Juvenile ornate ghost pipefish
The Ornate Ghost Pipefish has a short lifespan, typically less than a year, which adds to their rarity and value for divers. You may spot juveniles in mid or late season, depending on water conditions and reproductive timing.
ornate ghost pipefish swimming near gorgonians

📸 Pro Tips for Divers & Underwater Photographers

Ornate ghost pipefish head macro photography
  • Macro lens: A 60mm macro lens is a solid option. These fish are small and delicate—macro photography helps capture crisp, detailed shots.

  • Red focus light: If there isn’t enough natural light, avoid startling them with a strong white beam. Use a red focus light instead to reduce disturbance.

  • Buoyancy control: Stay still and patient; sudden movements can cause them to drift away or vanish behind coral fans.
​
Dive slowly: Follow your guide closely—they usually know where to find Ghost Pipefish and the crinoids they like to hide in.
Beautiful ornate ghost pipefish head by Franck Fogarolo
🤫 Did you know?
Ornate Ghost Pipefish often appear in pairs during mating season. If you spot one, look nearby—you may find its mate hovering in synchrony.
Perfectly camouflaged ornate ghost pipefish
Ornate ghost pipefish love...
A couple of ghost pipefish in the dark

🌊 Why Seeing One Is So Special

Ornate Ghost Pipefish don’t form large groups. They don’t build nests. They don’t even return year after year to the same exact reef. Their lives are brief and nomadic, and their success depends entirely on staying hidden.
The most commonly encountered ghost pipefish species in the Andaman Sea is the Ornate Ghost Pipefish
A couple of robust ghost pipefish
That’s why a sighting—especially of a gravid female carrying eggs—feels like finding a secret in the sea.
​

The most commonly encountered ghost pipefish species in the Andaman Sea is the Ornate Ghost Pipefish (Solenostomus paradoxus). However, the Robust Ghost Pipefish (Solenostomus cyanopterus) can also occasionally be found.

A robust ghost pipefish in the Andaman Sea

🎒 Dive Into the Mystery with The Smiling Seahorse

If you dream of encountering an Ornate Ghost Pipefish in the wild, your best bet is to join one of our liveaboard cruises. Our expert guides know exactly where these elusive creatures like to hide, and our small-group approach ensures a calm, respectful environment to truly appreciate their beauty.
🐟 Book your cruise now and dive with the reef’s most ghostly residents.
    Don’t miss your chance to meet some of the ocean’s rarest and most magical stars.

CRUISES SCHEDULE

The Smiling Seahorse

​By Clément 

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Trip report, Mergui Archipelago & Burma Banks – April 12–19, 2025

22/5/2025

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12th to 19th April 2025 - trip report
​Our journey began in Ranong, where our international guests—this time hailing from France, Austria, and the Philippines—stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, their eyes alight with excitement. After clearing Thai immigration, we crossed the border into Kawthoung, Myanmar, where the rhythmic stamping of passports signaled the official start of our voyage into one of the last untouched marine frontiers: the breathtaking Mergui Archipelago. It was a pleasure welcoming back some good friends and creating new friendships this week.
side of the smiling seahorse liveaboard
sunset on the andaman sea

Check dive site on High Rock

The ocean greeted us gently at High Rock, our check dive site, where the clear waters hinted at the wonders lying beneath the surface. Silver ribbons of yellowtail barracudas spiraled gracefully around us, mingling with yellowback fusiliers weaving effortlessly through the current. A shy moray eel peeked out from its crevice, while a solitary thornback boxfish hovered calmly nearby. Hidden among the branches of a gorgonian fan, a tiger tail seahorse played a game of underwater hide-and-seek. Vibrant nudibranchs—tiny explosions of color—adorned the reef like living confetti, as schools of butterflyfish flitted past, as curious about us as we were about them.
honeycomb muray eel - myanmar
Greencup coral eating nudibranch
school of surgeonfish in shark cave burma

At Three Islets, the magic intensified​

At Three Islets, the magic only deepened. Shark Cave pulsed with life: a proud adult yellow tiger tail seahorse clung steadfastly to a coral branch, while banded stick pipefish slithered gracefully through the rubble below. Along the rocky surfaces, Chromodoris and Flabellina nudibranchs performed their delicate, colorful dance. Above, fusiliers—blue-lined, yellow-lined, and every shade in between—formed a shimmering curtain that rippled across the reef. A sleek wahoo darted through the school like a silver arrow, while angelfish and parrotfish painted the scene with bold strokes of tropical color.
moray eel and seahorse
nurshe shark with diver at the burma banks
nurse shark in myanmar
myanmar giant barrel spong

Square Rock and Submarine

At Square, the underwater action showed no sign of slowing. Yellowstripe trevallies and longnose emperors darted through shimmering clouds of glassfish, while brassy and golden trevallies cruised along the reef’s edge like vigilant sentinels. Amid the commotion, tiger tail seahorses clung calmly to coral branches, unbothered by the lively currents. Butterflyfish and wrasses wove through the midwater, adding intricate layers to the reef’s silent symphony.

At Submarine, gentle currents allowed us to drift effortlessly alongside schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and golden dash fusiliers. A marble ray glided like a shadow over the sandy bottom, barely disturbing the drowsy goatfish resting below. Nearby, damselfish fiercely guarded their nests, while a curious trumpetfish trailed us, blending amusingly with our dive gear.

After a surface interval filled with laughter and fresh fruit, we stepped ashore at the quaint village of Khun Pi Lar. Its white-sand beach and serene Buddha temple offered a peaceful contrast to the vibrant underwater world.

As night fell, we returned to Shark Cave, now transformed into a nocturnal wonderland. Sweetlips slumbered beneath ledges, decorator crabs scuttled by in bizarre camouflage, and a ghost pipefish twirled in our torchlight. A Chromodoris geminus glowed like a living jewel, illuminating the darkness with its fluorescent brilliance.
tigertail seahorse of Myanmar
Andaman Sea School of Jacks
many many fish in mergui archipelago

​Then, it was time to sail further west toward the legendary Burma Banks.

We began the next day with Roe Bank, where nurse sharks rested languidly on the sandy bottom, surrounded by shimmering schools of silver sweetlips. Nearby, a marlin breached near the boat—an electrifying moment of pure ocean magic. The fish schools were immense: scissortail fusiliers, yellowback fusiliers, and black-and-white snappers surged like living tides. Giant sweetlips and redfin butterflyfish hovered near coral heads, accompanied by inquisitive triggerfish and a vibrant assortment of wrasses.

At Rainbow Bank, our third dive brought us face-to-face with a swirling vortex of bigeye trevallies—a mesmerizing underwater tornado. Nurse sharks cruised by silently, while a mangrove whipray materialized from the gloom like a gliding UFO. Amid the bustle of sweetlips and giant snappers, we spotted elegant pairs of bannerfish fluttering gracefully, and clouds of anthias painted the coral outcrops in vivid orange hues.

Our sunset dive was nothing short of exhilarating. One group encountered a bold and curious bull shark, while nurse sharks hovered in the twilight shadows. Honeycomb moray eels slithered between coral heads, and territorial triggerfish patrolled the sandy slopes, fiercely guarding their nests. Pufferfish drifted by slowly, like whimsical balloons suspended in the deep.

Meanwhile, others descended into the inky blackness for a blackwater dive—a surreal journey into the unknown. From the depths rose tiny post-larval creatures: flounders, squid, even a sea elephant, their translucent forms glowing under our lights like alien visitors in a dreamlike ballet from the abyss.
bannerfish schooling in mergui archipelago
diving with mutlicolor schools of fish in burma
preparing blackwater diving in myanmar
myanmar blackwater diving
blackwater diving liveaboard
alien on blackwater diving
sea angel on blackwater dive
squid on a blackwater dive
blackwater diving critters in myanmar

The next morning, Roe Bank greeted us again

The next morning, Roe Bank welcomed us once more. It was so good, it was worth coming back! Dogtooth tuna sliced through vast shoals of fusiliers, their speed a blur against the swirling backdrop. Marble rays lay half-buried in the sand, only to lift off with a graceful flap, vanishing into the blue. We wound our way around boulders teeming with surgeonfish, while massive potato groupers watched from the shadows, still and imposing.

At Coral Bank, the excitement continued. Nurse sharks cruised alongside us, and another bull shark made a brief but thrilling appearance. Towering schools of yellow dot fusiliers and surgeonfish filled the water column, while rainbow runners shot through them like silver missiles. Below, groupers, triggerfish, and curious blennies darted among the coral rubble, each corner revealing new life.

Silvertip Bank brought our adventure to a spectacular finale. Nurse sharks patrolled in lazy circles, marble rays soared effortlessly overhead, and a majestic Napoleon wrasse glided past with quiet authority. Curtains of fusiliers shimmered like underwater rainbows, momentarily parting to reveal damselfish, groupers, and sergeant majors weaving through the colorful chaos.
julien and nurse shark
xeno crab in burma
burma banks shark mating
goby on whip coral

On Day 5, Seafan Forest

We returned to Seafan Forest under crystal-clear conditions, the visibility offering a perfect window into the reef’s vibrant life. Fusiliers flowed like living rivers across the coral landscape, pursued by sleek great barracudas and darting rainbow runners. A pharaoh cuttlefish shimmered with ever-changing colors as it glided by, while a stonefish lay perfectly still, masterfully disguised among the reef. A proud tiger tail seahorse clung delicately to a sea fan, and nearby, a devil scorpionfish nestled between sponge and coral, its spiny silhouette barely detectable.

The adventure continued at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky Cave. Schools of batfish drifted gracefully overhead, five-line snappers pulsed across the reef in synchronized bursts, and twinstripe fusiliers streamed past like underwater arrows.
Chromodoris nudibranchs were abundant, their vibrant bodies accompanied by delicate, ribbon-like spirals of freshly laid eggs. Sponge snails peeked from their porous homes, while giant moray eels and fimbriated eels slinked through the crevices. A bright red frogfish, bold and still, posed patiently for photos—one nestled beneath the arch, the other tucked against the rocky wall like a secret waiting to be discovered.
giant frogfish at Western Rocky
myanmar beautiful reef scene
lionfish in myanmar
big eye trevallies near the reef
durban dancing shrimp mergui

On Day 6, Seafan Forest again... for more magic

We returned once more to Seafan Forest, and the magic continued. Nudibranchs spiraled their ribbon-like eggs onto the reef, stonefish vanished into their surroundings with expert camouflage, and schools of yellowback fusiliers pulsed rhythmically over coral heads like golden currents. Back at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky, we were delighted to find our familiar pair of giant frogfish—still motionless, still mesmerizing—surrounded by a kaleidoscope of reef life. Damselfish fiercely guarded their patches of eggs, while curious puffers hovered nearby, inspecting our bubbles with wide-eyed fascination.

Our final dive brought us to Dendro’s Pinnacle—and what a farewell it was. Visibility stretched endlessly as we drifted through clouds of five-line snappers and golden trevally. Yellowtail barracudas shimmered like blades in the distance.
​We were treated to the sight of not one, but two dazzling Chromodoris species--annulata and reticulata—while a graceful orange-spotted pipefish waved a quiet goodbye from the coral.

batfish schooling in Burma
quiet night onboard watching the moon rise
juvenile angelfish in Mergui Archipelago
It was the perfect close to a week of unforgettable dives, breathtaking marine encounters, and friendships forged in the blue.
new friendships onboard
liveaboard guests
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Myanmar Trip Report – April 2nd to 10th, 2025: Manta and giant frogfish in Mergui Archipelago!

25/4/2025

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April 2025 trip report in Mergui Archipelago
Scarlett Taylor, marine biologistScarlett Taylor
April greeted us with calm seas, radiant skies, and a boat brimming with international energy as divers from Belgium, France, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Italy stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Together, we set off on an unforgettable journey through the stunning Mergui Archipelago and the remote Burma Banks during our highly anticipated Manta Ray Expedition. Promising close encounters with ocean giants and elusive marine wonders, this trip didn’t just meet expectations—it exceeded them.

What made this expedition truly exceptional was the presence of Scarlett Taylor, a marine biologist from Canada with a Master’s degree in Biology from Dalhousie University. Scarlett brought a wealth of knowledge and infectious enthusiasm, sharing captivating insights into manta ray behavior, shark ecology, and the importance of protecting critical marine habitats. Drawing from her experience with the Manta Trust and her current work with Global Reef in Thailand, she hosted daily talks that deepened our understanding and appreciation of the incredible creatures we encountered beneath the waves.

Once we cleared immigration in Kawthoung, we set a course northwest into Burmese waters, ready to explore the untamed heart of the Andaman Sea.

Day 1: Warming Up in the North

Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the adventure ahead. A delicate Tiger Tail Seahorse nestled gracefully among the corals stole the show, while a curious Cowfish drifted by like a miniature UFO. We cruised alongside a shimmering school of Pickhandle Barracudas, silver scales catching the sunlight, as Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef edges with quiet authority. In the cracks and coral bommies, Butterflyfish flitted about while bold little Damselfish held their ground, helping us ease back into the rhythm of the deep.
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Next, we headed to Ba Wei, where a striking black Ribbon Eel waved like a ribbon of ink from its burrow, and a pair of elegant Jann’s Pipefish twirled delicately among soft coral tendrils. At the cleaning stations, Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasses hovered with purpose, ready for business, while vibrant Angelfish and shimmering Anthias painted the reef in brilliant hues.

We capped off the day at South Twin, where a lively current brought in the big fish. Bluefin and Giant Trevallies swept past with power, joined by the lightning-fast Rainbow Runners. Yet even amid the rush, we paused to admire the more subtle beauty—Moorish Idols and Bannerfish swaying gracefully in the swell. As night fell, we slipped beneath the surface once more for a mysterious dive in South Twin Bay. There, Parrotfish dozed inside their protective mucous cocoons, and stealthy Lionfish prowled through rocky crevices, adding a touch of nighttime drama to an already magical day.
Tigertail seahorse
schooling bannerfish around a giant barrelsponge
pair of Burtterflyfish Andaman Sea liveaboard
pikhandle barracudas mergui archipelago

Day 2: Shark Cave Adventure

We dedicated a full day to exploring the wonders of the Shark Cave area, diving between Shark Cave, Square Rock, and Submarine. Each site delivered in spades. A shy Bamboo Shark peeked from beneath a rocky ledge, while Tiger Tail Seahorses clung delicately to sea fans swaying in the shallows. Five Marble Rays glided past in graceful formation, skimming over coral gardens teeming with life—Tomato Clownfish darting through anemones, curious Cuttlefish drifting by, and schools of Batfish swirling like a slow-motion ballet overhead.

The macro magic was just as mesmerizing. Electric-hued Chromodoris nudibranchs lit up the reef, cryptic Decorator Crabs disguised themselves among the rubble, and alien-like Xeno Crabs gripped tightly to whip corals, looking like creatures from another planet. Meanwhile, Gold Spot Trevallies zipped through the shallows in gleaming flashes, as the reef bustled with a kaleidoscope of Wrasses, Groupers, and Triggerfish going about their vibrant, busy lives.
Nurse Shark Burma banks 2025
cuttlefish magic in Myanmar
blotched sting ray in Myanmar diving trip
Diving with Batfish in Burma

Day 3: Black Rock Brilliance

Black Rock never fails to impress—and today, it truly outdid itself. Across four exhilarating dives, we were treated to four manta ray sightings, including two unforgettable close encounters with majestic oceanic mantas. One glided directly overhead, lingering in the dappled sunlight as our bubbles rose to meet it—an awe-inspiring moment that left the entire group breathless with wonder.

Below and around us, schools of Big Eye Trevallies moved like rolling silver waves, creating a mesmerizing backdrop to the manta magic. In the reef’s quieter corners, diligent Harlequin Shrimps nibbled away at sea stars, their intricate patterns standing out against the rocky crevices. A ghostly White Devil Scorpionfish, nearly indistinguishable from the stone it rested on, reminded us just how much goes unnoticed until you truly look.

The entire reef pulsed with energy—Snappers darted in tight formation, Surgeonfish weaved through the chaos, and Sweetlips hovered with their signature pout. Black Rock delivered a sensory feast, once again proving why it’s one of the crown jewels of the Andaman Sea.
myanmar oceanic manta ray
harlequin shrimp in Black Rock, Burma
Giant manta ray in Burma
baby blue surgeon fish burma banks

Day 4: North Twin & Into the Dee

At North Twin Pinnacle, the blue came alive with motion and grace. Four Eagle Rays soared past like underwater kites, effortlessly gliding through the open water. All around us, Fusiliers streamed in dazzling bursts of blue and yellow, like living confetti swirling on the current. Below, the reef buzzed with life—Snappers and regal Emperor Angelfish filled the coral-scape, occasionally parting to make way for larger visitors, including a sleek Tuna cruising by in the distance during our third dive at North Twin Reef.
Eagle ray encounter at North Twin
eagle ray portrait myanmar diving highlight
angel fish in burmese water
That night, we descended into the inky darkness for a blackwater dive—an ethereal and otherworldly adventure. Suspended in the abyss, we drifted alongside glowing, translucent larval creatures, some so strange and delicate they seemed imagined. Many of these deep-sea drifters may never be seen again in their adult forms, making each encounter feel like a fleeting secret of the ocean. It was a surreal and spellbinding end to a truly magical day.
shrimp blackwater burma
andaman sea blackwater diving with squid

Day 5 & 6: reaching the remove waters of Burma Bank

The Burma Banks unfolded before us like a dreamscape of the deep—vast, remote, and teeming with life. Over eight thrilling dives, we shared encounters that will be etched in memory for years to come. In the golden afternoon light, three Bull Sharks patrolled a ridge with quiet dominance, while a passing Tiger Shark sent a ripple of adrenaline through the group, hearts pounding in unison.

Beneath coral overhangs, Nurse Sharks lay in calm repose, while a juvenile Grey Reef Shark darted with youthful agility through a swirling school of Trevally. A graceful Turtle glided by, utterly unbothered by our presence, as if we were just another current in its path. Meanwhile, enormous Marble Rays stirred the sandy bottom with their powerful wings, sending Gobies and Sand perch scattering like leaves in the wind.

The Burma Banks delivered wild beauty in every direction—a raw and humbling reminder of the ocean’s power, mystery, and grace.
nurse shark at the burma banks
ancien coral formation burma banks
marble ray burma banks
burma banks giant bummies

Day 7 & 8: Western Rocky Farewel

As we made our way back toward the Western Rocky area, Seafan Forest welcomed us with one last breathtaking surprise—a graceful Hammerhead Shark gliding past in a silent, unforgettable flyby (unfortunately not captured by any camera!).

Tucked among the swaying sea fans, another perfectly camouflaged Tigertail Seahorse revealed itself, while Stonefish lurked in plain sight, waiting to be discovered. In the shallows, Cuttlefish shimmered with vibrant color displays, their bodies flashing like living neon signs. Our macro luck held steady with one final encounter—a charming pair of Harlequin Shrimps, closing the loop on a week of small, spectacular finds.

At The Cave and Eagle Rock, the weird and wonderful made their curtain call. A hulking Giant Frogfish rested motionless in the open, its shape barely distinguishable from the coral around it. A cleverly hidden Elbow Crab and a regal Slipper Lobster reminded us once more that in the underwater world, magic hides in the details—and the surprises truly never stop.
stonefish on top of seafan forest
table coral mergui archipelago
porcelain crab in Burma
myanmar prestine coral reef

Thanks to Gregor Koschicek for this stunning video of the trip ! 
As we sailed back toward Thailand, the sun dipped below the horizon, closing the chapter on a week filled with manta ballets, thrilling shark encounters, and kaleidoscopic coral gardens. With Scarlett’s expert insights adding depth to every dive, and a spirited crew of divers from around the world sharing the experience, this Manta Ray Expedition became more than a trip—it became a story we’ll be telling for years.

Already dreaming of the next one? So are we...
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Liveaboard Dive Trip Report: Mergui Archipelago, March 6-12, 2025

18/3/2025

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At least 4 Mantas sightings this week and so much more!

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​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier, MV Smiling Seahorse embarked on an unforgettable dive safari into the stunning Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar. After clearing Thai immigration, our enthusiastic guests from France’s Galathée Group joined us as we proceeded to Kawthoung for entry formalities into Myanmar. Once completed, we set course northwest to begin our adventure in this remote and pristine marine paradise.
 
Our playground this week!
The Mergui Archipelago is a secluded paradise, boasting over 800 islands with dramatic limestone cliffs, mangroves, white sandy beaches, and vibrant coral reefs. Home to an incredible diversity of marine life, from macro critters to pelagic giants, it remains one of the last frontiers for divers seeking untouched underwater landscapes and thrilling encounters with oceanic mantas, reef sharks, and rare fish species.
A Frogfish at Black Rock
Beautiful Juvenile Lined Wrasse in the Mergui Archipelago

Day 1: Exploring the First Dive Sites
Check Dive at High Rock

​Our adventure began with a check dive at High Rock, where we were immediately welcomed by schools of yellowtail barracuda and yellowback fusiliers. Among the reef, we spotted moray eels, nudibranchs, and a beautiful thornback boxfish, also known as the cowfish. The highlight of the dive was an elusive tiger tail seahorse and a well-camouflaged stonefish lurking among the corals.
Heathy and colourful reef from the Mergui Archipelago
Tiger Tail Seahorse at High Rock Mergui Archipelago
Dive 2 at Bawe (Rainbow Rock)
​A spectacular site showcasing an array of colorful soft corals in shades of yellow, blue, pink, white, and red. Marine life was abundant, with Durban dancing shrimps, a baby yellow boxfish, giant moray eels, crabs, and scorpionfish in both juvenile and adult stages. Among the highlights were chromodoris annulata, a ring angelfish, a yellow-edged moray eel, a school of circular batfish, and the fascinating blue dragon nudibranch.
Colorful Mc Cosker's flasher wrasse in the Mergui Archipelago
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Dive 3 at South Twin
This site offered a mesmerizing blend of macro life and schooling fish. Notable sightings included banded stick pipefish, chromodoris annulata, blue dragon nudibranchs, and a large school of epaulette surgeonfish. We also encountered a Maldivian sponge snail and an impressive array of reef fish, including peacock grouper, common lionfish, and twinstripe fusiliers.
Night Dive
As darkness fell, we encountered fascinating nocturnal creatures, including cleaning partner shrimps, scorpionfish, octopuses, decorated crabs, giant moray eels, blue and white flatworms, and more blue dragons.
Beautiful Harlequin Shrimp in the Mergui Archipelago
Harlequin and Durban Dancing Shrimps in the Mergui Archipelago

Day 2: A Day of Manta Encounters at Black Rock

​Black Rock delivered one of the most thrilling experiences of the trip, with at least three different oceanic manta rays gracing us with their presence. Schools of rainbow runners, yellowtail barracuda, pickhandle barracuda, and bigeye trevally swirled around us. We also spotted striped bristletooth surgeonfish, juvenile yellow band fusiliers, and several macro treasures such as red and white clown frogfish, a giant white frogfish, and an orange frogfish. A great barracuda receiving a spa treatment from cleaner wrasses was another highlight. Additional reef fish seen included bicolor cleaner wrasse, blue and gold fusiliers, and six striped soap fish.
Majestic Oceanic Manta Ray gliding above the reef at Black Rock Mergui Archipelago

Day 3: Diving Three Islets & Village Visit

​Square Rock
Featuring tigertail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, chromodoris nudibranchs, a school of yellowtail barracuda, purple flabellina, and a magnificent marble ray.
Shark Cave
This site amazed us with its massive school of juvenile blue and gold fusiliers, chromodoris annulata, a baby tiger tail seahorse, and an impressive array of reef fish, including blacktip grouper and oriental sweetlips.
Submarine
Encounters included a bamboo shark sleeping among the rocks, a stonefish, trevallies, rainbow runners, wahoo, a massive school of yellow snappers, and porcelain crabs.
Village Visit - Khun Pi Law
During snack time, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque village with a white sandy beach and a beautiful Buddha temple, offering a glimpse into the local culture before heading back for our night dive.
Night Dive at Shark Cave
Decorated crabs, white-eye moray eels, Durban dancing shrimps, baby slipper lobsters, basket star shrimps, blue and white flatworms, blue dragons, and tiny tigertail seahorses, including a very small baby one, made this dive truly magical.
Frogfish in the Mergui Archipelago
Banded stick pipe fish on sea star at The Mergui Archipelago

Day 4 & 5: Manta Encounters & Spectacular Reefs

Diving at Sea Fan Forest, Western Rocky, and Eagle’s Rock brought us a quick but breathtaking visit from a massive oceanic manta, harlequin shrimps, Mc Cosker’s dwarf wrasse, cuttlefish mating, and large schools of fusiliers.
Highlights at The Cave, The Islets, and Eagle’s Rock included schools of yellow-lined fusiliers, moray eels, crabs, yellowtail barracuda, five-line snapper, twin stripe fusiliers, chromodoris annulata with its eggs, Maldivian sponge snails, and fimbriate moray eels.
Day five's blackwater dive was a thrilling experience featuring larval octopuses, pelagic seahorses, mantis shrimps, flounders, veliger pelagic snails, triggerfish, squids, lizardfish, and krill. The night ended with a fantastic BBQ, celebrating the trip with our amazing French group.
Tiny cephalopod Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago
Larval stage of Flounders Blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago
Pelaic Seahorse drifting in the open ocean during Blackwater dive in the Mergui Archipelago
Close up of pelagic Seahorse Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago
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Cuttle fish Blackwater dive Mergui Archipelago

Day 6: Final Dive at Dendro’s Pea

​Our final dive site, Dendro’s Peak, provided a fitting end to an extraordinary journey. We encountered Jenkins rays, schools of fusiliers, bigeye trevally, rabbitfish, and an incredible variety of reef fish, including yellowfin goatfish, halfmoon grouper, and mimic sabretooth blennies.
Healthy Soft Coral reef in the Mergui Archipelago
Conclusion 
The Mergui Archipelago never ceases to amaze with its diverse marine life, stunning reefs, and pelagic action. With oceanic mantas, frogfish, seahorses, and a vast array of macro critters, this trip was truly unforgettable. We can’t wait to return for another adventure in these incredible waters!
Happy clients onboard
Manta sighting in the Mergui Archipelago
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Trip Report: Burma Expedition aboard MV Smiling Seahorse (February 26 - March 6, 2025)

15/3/2025

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Departing from Ranong Badin Pier, our journey began with the usual Thai immigration process before setting course for Kawthung, Burma. Once the formalities were completed, we sailed northwest into the vast and remote Mergui Archipelago, a hidden gem of the Andaman Sea. With over 800 islands scattered across the region, Mergui is a paradise for divers, featuring towering limestone formations, soft coral gardens, and thriving marine biodiversity. This journey brought together an international group of adventurers from the UK, USA, Taiwan, Germany, Switzerland, France, and Thailand, all eager to explore this pristine underwater world.
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Day 1: First Encounters... Check Dive at High Rock

A gentle check dive to start the trip, where we encountered schools of yellowtail barracuda and yellowback fusiliers gliding over the reef. Moray eels peeked out from rocky crevices, and macro lovers were delighted to spot nudibranchs. The highlight was the sighting of two juvenile tiger tail seahorses camouflaged among the sea fans.
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Dive 2 at Ba wei, aka Rainbow Rock
True to its name, Rainbow Rock boasted a colorful display of soft corals in yellow, blue, pink, white, and red. The reef was bustling with Durban dancing shrimps, baby yellow boxfish, and giant moray eels lurking in the shadows. Crabs, both juvenile and adult scorpionfish, and the striking chromodoris annulata nudibranch added to the spectacle. Among the angelfish, a beautiful ring angelfish made a rare appearance.

Dive 3 at South Twin
This dive site delivered with a fantastic variety of marine life. Banded stick pipefish hovered near the bottom, while blue dragons and chromodoris annulata nudibranchs decorated the reef. A school of dusky batfish moved in synchrony, and an impressive Maldivian sponge snail was spotted near a cluster of sea fans. The biggest excitement came when a grey reef shark cruised by, adding a touch of adrenaline to the dive.

Night Dive
Under the cover of darkness, the reef transformed. Cleaning partner shrimps tended to their clients, while a devil scorpionfish lay in wait. Decorated crabs in shades of yellow and pink scuttled across the seabed, alongside red coral crabs and the striking blue dragon nudibranch.
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Day 2: Black Rock Spectacle Black Rock – The Jewel of the North

Located in the far northern reaches of the Mergui Archipelago, Black Rock is one of Burma’s most exhilarating dive sites. Rising from the depths of the open sea, this isolated pinnacle attracts pelagic species, making it a hotspot for large schools of fish and occasional visits from oceanic giants.
The day's dives at Black Rock did not disappoint. We swam alongside a massive school of bigeye jacks and yellowtail barracuda. Juvenile yellow spot fusiliers darted between the coral-covered slopes, while mantis shrimps and porcelain crabs found refuge in crevices. Nudibranch enthusiasts were thrilled with sightings of chromodoris annulata and chromodoris risbecia pulchella. The grand spectacle of the day came when an oceanic manta ray gracefully soared above us, followed closely by a giant white frogfish resting on a ledge. Other highlights included an octopus displaying its camouflage skills, a juvenile African pompano, and a lurking cobia.

​Blackwater Dive
Venturing into the darkness, we encountered ghostly planktonic creatures—larvae of flounder, sea butterflies, shrimps, and free-swimming larvaceans, creating an ethereal underwater experience.


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Day 3: Three Islets – A Macro Wonderland Square Roc

This dive kicked off with tiger tail seahorses clinging to gorgonian sea fans, while orange spotted pipefish wove through the reef. Chromodoris nudibranchs added splashes of color, and a marble ray rested on the sandy bottom. The rare mordilla brocki nudibranch made an appearance, and to our delight, an eagle ray soared past.

​Shark Cave

A site known for its vibrant marine life, Shark Cave was teeming with schools of juvenile pickhandle barracuda and a massive congregation of blue-and-gold fusiliers. Pharaoh cuttlefish engaged in mesmerizing mating displays, shifting colors right before our eyes. A banded krait sea snake glided through the coral, while chromodoris annulata nudibranchs lined the rock walls. Adding to the excitement, a pregnant giant pufferfish hovered near a coral outcrop.

Submarine Reef

Stonefish expertly blended into the reef, while trevallies and rainbow runners dashed across the blue. A giant titan triggerfish patrolled the area, and decorated sea urchins provided shelter for small reef critters. A massive school of yellow snappers blanketed the site, making for an unforgettable dive.

Shark Cave (Night Dive)

This nocturnal dive revealed an array of decorated crabs, Durban dancing shrimps, and baby slipper lobsters. A basket star shrimp hid among the reef, and we even spotted a ghostly wahoo passing by in the distance.

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Day 4 & 5: Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky – Conservation Efforts Sea Fan Forest

A breathtaking dive site characterized by towering sea fans, home to tigertail seahorses, stonefish, and harlequin shrimps. Our dive team dedicated two dives to removing a massive ghost net draped across the east face of the reef, successfully freeing the site of this hazard.
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Western Rocky– The Cave
This legendary site, featuring a tunnel cutting through the island, offered sightings of moray eels, fusiliers, and lurking stonefish. A surprise encounter with a giant red frogfish at the safety stop made for a memorable end to the day.

Eagle Rock
Sunset diving here brought sightings of octopuses posing for cameras, baby lobsters, Maldivian sponge snails, and marble shrimps.
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Day 6: Dendro’s Peak – The Grand Final

Our final dive took place at Dendro’s Peak, a vibrant seamount bustling with marine life. Schools of giant trevallies, rainbow runners, and wahoo created an action-packed scene. Yellowtail barracuda and bigeye trevallies swirled around us, while mantis peacock shrimps and white-eyed moray eels hid among the rocks. A fitting end to an incredible expedition!

As we made our way back to Kawthung, we celebrated with the traditional Burmese beer before returning to Ranong, reminiscing about the unforgettable encounters of the past week. Until next time, Burma!

​Another unforgettable adventure with the MV Smiling Seahorse!
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    The Smiling Seahorse Diving Blog

    A blog about our diving adventures in Burma and Thailand. Diving trip reports, guest reviews, fishy stories, wildlife fun facts and much more...
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    ​The Smiling Seahorse has been running dive cruises from Ranong since 2012.
    Our team of instructors are reporting with a short blogpost after every trip.
    Camille, Franck and some guest writers also contribute during the off season writing on various topics.
    Keep tuned for more fishy stories :)
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    See also...

    - About Myanmar liveaboards
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    ​- Marine life in Andaman Sea
    ​- The Mergui Archipelago
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    - Best dive site in Thailand

The Smiling Seahorse

Our dive cruises

170 Ruangrat Rd, Tambon khao nivet, Mueang Ranong District, Ranong 85000​
Phone: +66860110614​
​Mail: [email protected]

www.thesmilingseahorse.com
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The Smiling Seahorse ​
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  • When & Where
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    • Destinations >
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        • Similan Islands
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          • Richelieu Rock
        • The essential Underwater photo Guide to diving Thailand
      • South Andaman Thailand >
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        • Koh Lanta National Park
        • Koh Lipe and Tarutao National Park
      • Mergui Archipelago >
        • Liveaboard diving holiday in Myanmar
        • Burma's best dive sites
        • The Ultimate Underwater photo Guide to diving Burma
  • ABOUT
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      • DELICIOUS FOOD
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      • 8D Whale shark expedition - 20 March 2026 - North and South
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