​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier, MV Smiling Seahorse embarked on an unforgettable dive safari into the stunning Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar. After clearing Thai immigration, our enthusiastic guests from France’s Galathée Group joined us as we proceeded to Kawthoung for entry formalities into Myanmar. Once completed, we set course northwest to begin our adventure in this remote and pristine marine paradise.
 
Our playground this week!
The Mergui Archipelago is a secluded paradise, boasting over 800 islands with dramatic limestone cliffs, mangroves, white sandy beaches, and vibrant coral reefs. Home to an incredible diversity of marine life, from macro critters to pelagic giants, it remains one of the last frontiers for divers seeking untouched underwater landscapes and thrilling encounters with oceanic mantas, reef sharks, and rare fish species.

​Our adventure began with a check dive at High Rock, where we were immediately welcomed by schools of yellowtail barracuda and yellowback fusiliers. Among the reef, we spotted moray eels, nudibranchs, and a beautiful thornback boxfish, also known as the cowfish. The highlight of the dive was an elusive tiger tail seahorse and a well-camouflaged stonefish lurking among the corals.

Dive 2 at Bawe (Rainbow Rock)
​A spectacular site showcasing an array of colorful soft corals in shades of yellow, blue, pink, white, and red. Marine life was abundant, with Durban dancing shrimps, a baby yellow boxfish, giant moray eels, crabs, and scorpionfish in both juvenile and adult stages. Among the highlights were chromodoris annulata, a ring angelfish, a yellow-edged moray eel, a school of circular batfish, and the fascinating blue dragon nudibranch.

Dive 3 at South Twin
This site offered a mesmerizing blend of macro life and schooling fish. Notable sightings included banded stick pipefish, chromodoris annulata, blue dragon nudibranchs, and a large school of epaulette surgeonfish. We also encountered a Maldivian sponge snail and an impressive array of reef fish, including peacock grouper, common lionfish, and twinstripe fusiliers.
Night Dive
As darkness fell, we encountered fascinating nocturnal creatures, including cleaning partner shrimps, scorpionfish, octopuses, decorated crabs, giant moray eels, blue and white flatworms, and more blue dragons.

​Black Rock delivered one of the most thrilling experiences of the trip, with at least three different oceanic manta rays gracing us with their presence. Schools of rainbow runners, yellowtail barracuda, pickhandle barracuda, and bigeye trevally swirled around us. We also spotted striped bristletooth surgeonfish, juvenile yellow band fusiliers, and several macro treasures such as red and white clown frogfish, a giant white frogfish, and an orange frogfish. A great barracuda receiving a spa treatment from cleaner wrasses was another highlight. Additional reef fish seen included bicolor cleaner wrasse, blue and gold fusiliers, and six striped soap fish.

​Square Rock
Featuring tigertail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, chromodoris nudibranchs, a school of yellowtail barracuda, purple flabellina, and a magnificent marble ray.
Shark Cave
This site amazed us with its massive school of juvenile blue and gold fusiliers, chromodoris annulata, a baby tiger tail seahorse, and an impressive array of reef fish, including blacktip grouper and oriental sweetlips.
Submarine
Encounters included a bamboo shark sleeping among the rocks, a stonefish, trevallies, rainbow runners, wahoo, a massive school of yellow snappers, and porcelain crabs.
Village Visit - Khun Pi Law
During snack time, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque village with a white sandy beach and a beautiful Buddha temple, offering a glimpse into the local culture before heading back for our night dive.
Night Dive at Shark Cave
Decorated crabs, white-eye moray eels, Durban dancing shrimps, baby slipper lobsters, basket star shrimps, blue and white flatworms, blue dragons, and tiny tigertail seahorses, including a very small baby one, made this dive truly magical.

​Our final dive site, Dendro’s Peak, provided a fitting end to an extraordinary journey. We encountered Jenkins rays, schools of fusiliers, bigeye trevally, rabbitfish, and an incredible variety of reef fish, including yellowfin goatfish, halfmoon grouper, and mimic sabretooth blennies.

​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier after completing Thai immigration procedures, our international group of divers from Holland, the UK, the USA, Canada, Germany, and Colombia set sail for another exhilarating expedition aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. After formalities in Kawthung, Burma, we cruised northwest toward the remote and pristine waters of the Mergui Archipelago, anticipating days filled with thrilling dives before reaching the legendary Burma Banks.

​The Burma Banks is an isolated offshore reef system consisting of vast submerged plateaus and seamounts rising abruptly from the deep ocean floor. Unlike the nearshore reefs of the Mergui Archipelago, which are fringed with islands, the Burma Banks lie far out in the Andaman Sea, approximately 180 km west of the Burmese coast. Known for their strong currents, these deep reefs attract large pelagic species and host expansive coral gardens teeming with marine life. Our divers were in for an unforgettable adventure.

​Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the trip, with schools of yellowtail barracuda weaving through the water, accompanied by shimmering yellowback fusiliers. Moray eels peeked out from crevices, while nudibranch enthusiasts delighted in spotting various species, including the striking thornback boxfish, also known as cowfish.

​The second dive at Dragon Island had a mild current, allowing for an exciting drift dive. Baby yellowback fusiliers and juvenile barracudas formed mesmerizing clouds around the reef, while peacock mantis shrimps scuttled along the seabed. The reef was bursting with life—longfin batfish hovered in the currents, while clown triggerfish and regal angelfish added splashes of color to the scene.

​At Bawei, also called Rainbow Rock, the vibrant coral formations were alive with activity. Our night dive here revealed a fascinating array of nocturnal creatures, including tiny pygmy squid, Glossodoris nudibranchs, and agile fibriated moray eels. A massive stonefish lay camouflaged on the reef, while a devil scorpionfish lurked nearby. A lucky few spotted both tiny and medium needle cuttlefish, along with an impressive basket star shrimp and a striking blue dragon nudibranch.

​Our first dive at Three Islets, known as Square, provided exceptional visibility, revealing tigertail seahorses clinging to sea fans and a bustling school of yellowstripe trevally. Marble rays cruised gracefully along the seabed, while orange-spotted pipefish hid among soft corals. Photographers captured exquisite close-ups of flabellina exoptata and schools of brassy and golden trevally.

​At Shark Cave, sergeant major fish were fiercely defending their eggs from opportunistic wrasses. Banded stick pipefish and vibrant nudibranchs decorated the reef, while baby blacktip fusiliers darted through the water in synchronized movements.
Submarine, our third dive site, was alive with energy. Schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and blue-and-gold fusiliers filled the water column. A bamboo shark rested under a rocky ledge, and a curious ornate ghost pipefish hovered nearby.
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In the late afternoon, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque island with white sandy beaches and a serene Buddha temple. The night dive here did not disappoint—giant sweetlips hovered near the reef, ghost pipefish floated elegantly, and Chromodoris geminus nudibranchs illuminated the night.

​Our first two dives at North Twin Pinnacle featured schools of barracuda, yellow-lined fusiliers, and Risbecia pulchella nudibranchs. Partner shrimps hid among anemones, while giant moray eels watched divers curiously. A majestic eagle ray glided past, and Kuhl’s blue-spotted stingrays rested on sandy patches.

​At North Twin Reef, the late afternoon and sunset dives were calm but teeming with life. Large schools of yellowback and mainlined fusiliers dominated the scene, along with batfish and sweetlips near the coral bommies. Octopuses displayed their shape-shifting abilities, while giant coral tables formed a breathtaking underwater landscape.

​Our much-anticipated arrival at Burma Banks brought exciting encounters. At Row Bank, nurse sharks glided effortlessly through the currents, while a striking pair of Napoleon wrasses—male and female—patrolled the reef. Schools of silver sweetlips, black-and-white snappers, and scisortail fusiliers surrounded us. The highlight of the day? A marlin leaping at the surface near the boat!
Rainbow Bank’s third dive delivered an incredible tornado of bigeye trevally, complemented by massive marble rays and another nurse shark sighting. The sunset dive was equally thrilling, featuring honeycomb moray eels and giant sweetlips mingling with snappers.
Some divers opted for a blackwater dive instead, exploring the mysterious depths beyond the reef, discovering translucent larval fish, delicate jelly creatures, and fascinating drifters such as sea elephants, sea angels, tongue fish, isopods, and purpleback squid drifting in the open ocean."

​Franck was lucky to photograph a stunning Leopard Blenny (Exallias brevis), a photogenic yet elusive fish. With its freckled pattern and a size reaching up to 15 cm, this little beauty blends seamlessly into its surroundings, making it a challenging but rewarding subject for underwater photographers. Typically found hiding among the branches of Acropora, Pocillopora, and Porites corals, the Leopard Blenny is known for its skittish nature, darting away at the slightest disturbance. Capturing it on camera required patience, but the results were well worth the effort!"

The first two dives at Coral Bank featured an abundance of nurse sharks, a majestic mangrove whipray, and dense schools of fusiliers, surgeonfish, and potato groupers. A longnose emperor made a dramatic appearance, hunting an octopus in the sand.

​At Silvertip Bank, the highlight was a spectacular school of fusiliers swirling around the reef, alongside marble rays and a visiting Napoleon wrasse. We also encountered triggerfish, nurse sharks, damsels, and groupers hiding within coral crevices.

​Seafan Forest offered fantastic visibility, revealing swarms of baby lined fusiliers and mating Pharaoh cuttlefish. Divers were thrilled to spot stonefish and tigertail seahorses among the sea fans.
At Eagle Rock, we encountered yellowtail barracuda, a mesmerizing school of batfish, and the always-popular Pikachu nudibranch. Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef, and fimbriated moray eels peeked from their hiding spots.
Our final dive at Western Rocky Cave introduced us to pufferfish, twinstripe fusiliers, and damsels tending to their eggs—an intimate moment of underwater life.

​Our last dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle blessed us with incredible visibility. Schools of five-line snappers, gold giant trevally, and yellowtail barracuda surrounded the site. Stonefish lurked motionless, while vibrant nudibranchs—Chromodoris annulata and Chromodoris reticulata—crawled along the reef. The finale was a tiny orange-spotted pipefish, a true delight for macro enthusiasts.

​With our tanks emptied and our hearts full, we bid farewell to the Burma Banks and the Mergui Archipelago, already dreaming of our next adventure.

​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier, our journey to the Burma Banks began with the usual immigration formalities in Thailand before heading to Kawthung, Burma. Once the official paperwork was complete, we set course for the remote and breathtaking Mergui Archipelago and the Burma Banks. With guests from Thailand, Burma, France, Denmark, Switzerland, the USA, Italy, Panama, and Belgium, we embarked on another unforgettable adventure aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, eager to uncover the wonders of this legendary dive destination.

The Burma Banks is an isolated offshore reef system consisting of vast submerged plateaus and seamounts that rise abruptly from the deep ocean floor. Unlike the nearshore reefs of the Mergui Archipelago, which are fringed with islands, the Burma Banks lie far out in the Andaman Sea, approximately 180 km west of the Burmese coast. The area is renowned for its thrilling drift dives, expansive sandy plateaus, and vibrant coral outcrops, making it one of the most exhilarating dive sites in the region.

During our first dive on this fantastic forest of Seafans, we discovered a massive ghost net tangled in the coral. Recognizing the threat it posed to marine life, our dedicated team of dive pros sprang into action. Over the next hour, they carefully detached the net from the reef, ensuring minimal impact on the fragile corals.

By removing this ghost net, we saved countless marine creatures from a senseless death. Ghost nets continue to trap and kill marine life—fish, crabs, morays, and even sharks—that will never be eaten or used, making them a tragic waste. Beyond their impact on marine life, discarded fishing gear is one of the largest sources of plastic pollution in our oceans and contributes to coral reef destruction. This effort was a small but important step in protecting this beautiful dive site and preserving the underwater ecosystem for future divers.

We were lucky to have onboard seven awesome friends - Julien, Camille, Sofi, Tom, Thanda, Tim and Rich - who are also skilled dive professionals, including Thanda Ko Gyi, the founder of Myanmar's first ocean conservation organization, Myanmar Ocean Project and Tim & Rich from Thai Ocean Academy. With their expertise and manpower, we were able to make a real impact, ensuring that this stunning dive site remains a haven for marine life.
A big thank you to you all!!!

As the clock ticked toward 2025, we set sail on the MV Smiling Seahorse, departing from Ranong with an international crew of divers from Australia, the USA, France, and Spain. The journey began with a unique experience—crossing the Thai-Burmese border by sea. After clearing immigration at Kawthaung, we ventured into the enchanting Mergui Archipelago to kick off our New Year’s adventure.

Our first dive at High Rock set a remarkable tone for the week ahead. The reef teemed with life, showcasing vibrant cowfish, porcupine puffers, and schools of pickhandle barracuda gliding gracefully through the crystal-clear waters. Among the nooks and crannies, we encountered white-eye moray eels, pipefish, cuttlefish, and the notoriously elusive honeycomb moray. Scorpionfish expertly camouflaged themselves against the coral backdrop, keeping us constantly alert and engaged.

Dive two took us to Shark Cave at 3 Islets, where the diversity and abundance of marine life seemed to double. A delicate tiger tail seahorse swayed gently in the current, while peacock mantis shrimp scurried energetically across the sandy bottom. Schools of fusiliers, jacks, and snappers filled the water with vibrant bursts of color, and another stunning formation of pickhandle barracuda swirled around us in a mesmerizing ballet.

For our third dive at Submarine, or Square Rock, we were treated to thrilling highlights: a school of giant trevally and golden trevally shimmering like molten gold in the deep blue background. Nudibranch enthusiasts rejoiced at the sighting of exquisite purple and orange Flabellina and orange pipefish on the reef, while the large schools of yellow fusiliers, jacks, and snappers commanded attention above our heads. We were even fortunate to witness a "barracuda tornado," a breathtaking spectacle of swirling silver and shadows.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we returned to Shark Cave for a night dive, where the nocturnal marine life came alive. Decorator crabs adorned in shades of yellow and pink roamed the seabed, and small creatures like dancing Durban shrimp and cleaning shrimp illuminated the night with their lively antics. The ethereal presence of moray eels weaving through the shadows added an intriguing touch of mystery to the dive.
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Back on board, the night turned into a festive celebration. Ringing in New Year’s Eve in the remote Mergui Archipelago was nothing short of enchanting. With no other boats in sight, we welcomed 2025 beneath a canopy of stars, toasting to exceptional visibility, thrilling dives—and the exciting prospect of more encounters with nurse sharks to come!

At North Twin Pinnacle, we began our day with two dives that can only be described as breathtaking. A shy school of jackfish momentarily graced us with their presence, while yellowtail barracuda lounged atop the boulders, watching our every move. Among the vibrant coral gardens, we encountered mesmerizing tigertail seahorses, a pair of amorous octopuses engaged in a playful courtship display, and a distinctive seal-face pufferfish. The scene was further enhanced by the vivid presence of surgeonfish, batfish, and blue-and-yellow boxfish, creating a truly enchanting tableau.
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Our third and fourth dives at North Twin Reef Pinnacle unveiled a kaleidoscope of marine life. Blue-dash, blue-and-gold, and black-tipped fusiliers darted gracefully around pink basslets and longnose hawkfish nestled among the soft coral. We were also delighted by the vibrant sweetlips, butterflyfish, and angelfish, along with the surprising appearance of four giant blue-spotted pufferfish. A dogtooth tuna glided past us, serving as a reminder of the ocean's vast and mysterious depths.

The overnight journey took us to the Burma Banks, where Row Bank awaited. At an average depth of 25 meters, we were greeted by vibrant schools of bignose unicornfish and humpback unicornfish, as well as the majestic presence of nurse sharks—both resting under the bommies and curiously swimming among us. A massive school of jacks, seemingly engaged in a mating ritual, circled in pairs of dark and light individuals. Honeycomb moray eels peeked out from their hiding spots, while chromodoris nudibranchs delighted macro enthusiasts. The excitement was further heightened by the presence of giant sweetlips, white-tip reef sharks, and titan triggerfish.

During dives three and four at Rainbow Bank, we were accompanied by dolphins along the way, setting the stage for unforgettable underwater encounters. Nurse sharks and white-tip reef sharks patrolled the area, while jacks, trevally, and rainbow runners moved in synchronized harmony. On one dive, our group was treated to a stunning sunset that revealed bearded moray eels, giant blue-spotted pufferfish, scribbled filefish, and even more nurse sharks.
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Meanwhile, other divers opted for a blackwater dive, where the crystal-clear waters and gentle currents showcased a mesmerizing array of larval critters. Tiny flounders, shrimps, mantis shrimps, crabs, moray eels, jacks, goatfish, and sea butterflies floated gracefully in the current, creating a surreal underwater spectacle.

Returning to Row Bank for our first two dives, we were once again captivated by the mesmerizing sights of nurse sharks, honeycomb moray eels, and schools of striking black-and-white snappers. Longnose emperors and five-line snappers gracefully accompanied masked porcupinefish and giant pufferfish through the vibrant underwater landscape.

​During our third dive at Rainbow Bank, we had the exhilarating opportunity to encounter yellowfin tuna, formidable great barracuda, and even a baby grey reef shark. Our final dive at Silvertip Bank provided the ultimate thrill: an adult silvertip shark glided majestically by, accompanied by marble rays and inquisitive trevally, while baby grey reef sharks curiously approached the divers on their way to the safety stop.

The final day took us back to the Mergui Archipelago, beginning with two dives at SeaFan Forest. The pharaoh cuttlefish captivated our attention as they mated and laid eggs among the crevices. Tiger-tail seahorses, stonefish, and peacock mantis shrimp shared the stage with Chromodoris annulata nudibranchs, which were laying their eggs on the vibrant giant sea fans.
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At Western Rocky Cave, we were delighted by the sight of baby Hypselodoris nudibranchs, painted lobsters, and a school of pickhandle barracuda, offering a perfect conclusion to our underwater adventures. Our final dive at Eagle’s Nest was a spectacular display of color and life, featuring schools of jacks, juvenile bicolor parrotfish, and anemone crabs bidding us farewell in a mesmerizing underwater send-off.

Our trip concluded with a dive at the Volcano, also known as Shark Lagoon. Here, we glided through a kaleidoscope of soft corals in vibrant shades of yellow, purple, and pink, while bannerfish and flabellinas gracefully danced in the currents.

Spending the first days of the new year in the remote Burma Banks was an unparalleled experience. Being the only boat in this vast expanse of ocean felt surreal, as if the underwater world had been reserved just for us. The stunning visibility in the Banks, combined with abundant marine life and the thrill of diving with nurse sharks, made it a celebration we will never forget.

​Here’s to more adventures in 2025! The whole team wishing you all, readers, an amazing year!

​As Christmas drew near, we embarked on another unforgettable journey with MV Smiling Seahorse, this time venturing into the mesmerizing Burmese waters of the Mergui Archipelago. Guests from Germany, the UK, Australia, USA, Hong Kong, India, Switzerland, Belgium, and The Netherlands joined us, bringing an international flair to this festive trip. It was a pleasure welcoming back some old friends and making new ones this week!
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After leaving Ranong, we crossed the border into Burma, completing the necessary formalities in Kawthaung before heading into the Mergui Archipelago. This cluster of more than 800 islands is a pristine diving paradise, offering an untouched underwater world teeming with marine life and dramatic seascapes.

We began the trip with a gentle check dive at High Rock. The underwater world welcomed us with cowfish, porcupine pufferfish, yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda swimming gracefully around us. Hidden among the sandy seabed, we spotted white-eyed moray eels and a perfectly camouflaged crocodile fish, while pipefish and cuttlefish added their elegance to the scene.

Our second dive at Dragon Island lived up to its name with vibrant marine life. We marveled at a banded sea snake gliding by, colorful chromodoris nudibranchs adorning the reef, and a dramatic moment as a cuttlefish laid eggs while its partner stood guard nearby. Schools of fusiliers, snappers, Moorish idols, and sergeant fish moved in unison, creating a captivating underwater ballet. Groupers and a curious snowflake moray eel completed the spectacle.

The third dive at Ba Wey, also known as Rainbow Rock, greeted us with a kaleidoscope of colors. Soft corals in shades of yellow, blue, pink, white, and red surrounded us. We spotted baby yellow boxfish, blue-spotted stingrays, and giant moray eels. Tiny critters such as Durban dancing shrimps and chromodoris nudibranchs added a touch of magic, while cuttlefish continued their egg-laying ritual.
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As night fell, we returned to Ba Wey for a mesmerizing night dive. The darkness brought out fascinating marine life, including giant moray eels, fimbriated moray eels, lobsters, and crabs. The reef was alive with small nocturnal creatures, such as spiny lobsters, soldierfish, soldier crabs, and squat shrimp gliding in the moonlit water.

The day began at Square Rock, where challenging visibility didn’t dampen the excitement. We were rewarded with sightings of a tiger tail seahorse, a swirling tornado of pickhandle barracudas, and banded baby pipefish. Schools of yellowfin jackfish, various colourful nudibranchs, and a blue-spotted stingray completed this thrilling dive.

Our second dive took us to Submarine, where schools of snappers, fusiliers, and jacks swirled around us. We discovered a bamboo shark resting in a crack, boxfish exploring the reef, and the elegant egg cowrie moving gracefully among the corals.
The day’s final dive at Shark Cave delivered on its name with a barracuda tornado and an array of moray eels, including honeycomb and fimbriated varieties. We also encountered marble rays and blue-spotted stingrays sharing the same bed under a rock, while cowfish, tomato anemonefish, and cleaning partner shrimp completed the vibrant reef life.
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We ended the day with an unforgettable Christmas BBQ night on board, surrounded by laughter and the festive spirit of our amazing guests. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of orange and pink, the aroma of sizzling delicacies filled the air.
Our international group of divers shared stories of their underwater adventures, raising glasses to the magic of the season and the camaraderie that had blossomed on this journey. With music, delicious food, and a starlit sky above, it was a night to remember—a perfect way to celebrate Christmas together in the heart of the Andaman Sea!

Sea Fan Forest Pinnacle was our destination for the first two dives of the day. The site’s giant sea fans were home to treasures such as tiger tail seahorses and mating cuttlefish. Simon’s group was lucky enough to witness a fleeting visit from a small manta ray, while schools of yellow snappers and fusiliers, along with devil scorpionfish, made these dives truly memorable.

In the afternoon, we headed to Western Rocky for a dive at Eagle’s Nest. The highlight was a rare sight of two male cuttlefish battling for a mate, releasing clouds of ink during their duel. Nearby, a Maldivian sponge snail slowly made its way across the rocks, while batfish and a poison claw sea urchin added to the underwater drama.

The day ended with a dive through Western Rocky’s spectacular cave. We entered through an archway and swam through a tunnel beneath the island, emerging to a barracuda tornado and a massive school of jacks. Inside the cave, we spotted an elbow crab and marveled at colorful soft corals lining the walls.

We woke up surrounded by the open ocean, ready to explore Corner Bank. The first two dives of the day featured pristine waters with nurse sharks resting under bommies, Napoleon wrasse, and dogtooth tuna. A rare juvenile rock mover added to the excitement.
At Rainbow Bank, the marine life was equally stunning. Silvertip sharks, nurse sharks, and a juvenile clown triggerfish stole the show. The vibrant corals and excellent visibility showcased schools of fusiliers, a great barracuda, and moray eels.
Our final dive of the day at Silvertip Bank revealed a breathtaking hard coral garden dotted with bommies. Nurse sharks swam gracefully, while giant pufferfish, surgeonfish, potato groupers, and a silvertip shark contributed to the magic.

The day began with a breathtaking dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle, where an oceanic manta ray graced us with a fleeting visit. Schools of yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda, fusiliers, and nudibranchs highlighted the vibrant marine ecosystem.

Returning to Fan Forest Pinnacle for two more dives, we discovered even more treasures, including a yellow tiger tail seahorse, stonefish, and playful peacock mantis shrimp. Schools of snappers and fusiliers, along with two schools of yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda, plus a bustling coral garden, made these dives truly special.

​Our final dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle was a fitting end to this incredible trip. Schools of fusiliers, surgeonfish, jacks, and a curious octopus brought the adventure to a close.
Afterward, we returned to Kawthaung for border formalities and enjoyed some downtime in town before heading back to Ranong. Some guests visited the temple atop the hill, while others relaxed with a few local beers at the pier’s bar.