​Remote, wild and wonderfully unpredictable, this expedition through the Mergui Archipelago and out to the Burma Banks delivered the full spectrum of Andaman diving. From open-ocean giants to minute macro masterpieces, the week unfolded as a constant contrast between power and precision, blue-water encounters and slow, detail-driven exploration.

​After clearing Thai immigration at Badin Pier in Ranong, we welcomed an international group of guests from Switzerland, Israel, France, Germany, the Netherland, the USA, Norway and Finland. A smooth crossing to Kawthung allowed us to complete Burmese immigration before setting course north into the Mergui Archipelago.
As the mainland disappeared, jungle-covered islands emerged on the horizon, hinting at the untouched reefs ahead. Quiet anchorages, mangrove-lined bays and the feeling of true exploration set the tone for the days to come.

Our first dives at South Twin Reef offered a gentle re-entry into the underwater world, blending colourful reef life with outstanding macro. Walls were decorated with Flabellina species and Chromodoris annulata, while squat shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps shared crevices with peacock mantis shrimps. Schools of lined surgeonfish and ringtail surgeonfish cruised steadily above the reef, joined by clouds of neon and yellowback fusiliers.
Out in the blue, dogtooth tuna made fast passes, while giant moray eels watched from their lairs and batfish hovered calmly above coral bommies. Tiny juvenile anemonefish added delicate movement among soft corals and sea anemones.

Dive three at North Twin Reef shifted the balance slightly toward larger reef predators. Octopus activity was constant, giant moray eels dominated the cracks, and powder-blue surgeonfish, coral groupers and titan triggerfish patrolled the reef. Macro lovers were rewarded again with Chromodoris annulata, Halgerda species and Flabellina nudibranchs tucked into the reef structure.
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The night dive in North Twin Bay brought a dramatic change of pace. Octopus and cuttlefish hunted actively, squid hovered in midwater, jellyfish sheltered juvenile fish, and big red reef crabs marched across the sand. Scorpionfish and bar-tail moray eels emerged, while parrotfish and triggerfish slept wedged into the rock, trigger spines firmly locked in place.

A full day at Black Rock delivered the classic mix of adrenaline and detail that defines this iconic site. Morning dives were highlighted by curious oceanic manta rays circling gracefully above the pinnacle. Around them, schools of chevron barracuda, blacktip trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies and bigeye trevallies formed shifting walls of silver.

On the reef itself, coral groupers and peacock groupers shared space with powder-blue and velvet surgeonfish. Giant moray eels and yellow-edged moray eels filled the cracks, while batfish lingered in the lee of the current. Neon and yellowback fusiliers formed dense, constantly moving clouds around the rock.
Macro life was just as intense: Bornella anguilla, Goniobranchus geometrica, white-bump sapsucking slugs, golden wentletrap snails, tiger cowries, peacock-tail anemone shrimps and broadclub cuttlefish expertly camouflaged on the seafloor.
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The night dive revealed yet another side of Black Rock. Pygmy squid hunted small shrimps, devil scorpionfish lay in wait, and bar-tail moray eels cruised openly. Tiger cowries, money cowries and mole cowries dotted the reef alongside basket stars, sea cucumbers and massive hermit crabs. Moridilla brocki and slender Roboastra added vibrant flashes of colour to the darkness.

At Three Islets, we explored Submarine, Shark Cave and Square, enjoying a rich mix of reef fish and macro highlights. Bamboo sharks rested under ledges, while cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish hovered above soft corals. Schools of neon, yellowback, slender and twin stripe fusiliers streamed past chevron barracuda and passing trevallies.

At Shark Cave, tomato anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish guarded their homes alongside anemone crabs, while white-eye and honeycomb moray eels patrolled the reef. Macro finds included Nembrotha lineolata, Cuthona sibogae, mouthbrooding cardinalfish and Chromodoris annulata.
Square delivered tiger-tail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, batfish, yellowtail barracuda and golden trevallies, with Goniobranchus geometrica, egg cowries and juvenile seahorses tucked into the reef. A Khul’s stingray glided silently across the sand.

The night dive was packed with life: blunt decorated crabs, cone snails, princely cones, tiger cowries, gorgonian crabs, juvenile cuttlefish, marble rays hunting, basket stars, sleeping filefish, toadfish and hunting moray eels.
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After the final dive, we headed west toward the Burma Banks, isolated seamounts rising from deep water and famous for shark encounters and wide-open pelagic scenery.

At Row Bank, adult and juvenile nurse sharks dominated the scene, resting on sandy ledges and cruising slowly along the reef. Powder-blue and lined surgeonfish mixed with oriental sweetlips and two-spot butterflyfish. Coral groupers and peacock groupers held position near the reef, while cleaner wrasse and sixline wrasse worked constantly. Basslets hovered close to the reef face, and yellow-saddle goatfish sifted the sand.

Rainbow Bank continued the shark theme, with more nurse sharks, schools of humpback unicornfish and sleek unicornfish, batfish, longnose emperors and large schools of black-and-white snappers mixed with giant one-spot and five-lined snappers. Great barracuda patrolled the blue, while honeycomb moray eels filled the cracks.
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Due to weather conditions, we made the decision to head back toward the archipelago, trading open ocean for shelter and macro-rich reefs.

The morning began at Volcano, also known as Shark Lagoon. Inside the lagoon, hard corals framed the dramatic rock amphitheatre, while colourful sponges and soft corals painted the walls in yellow, orange, pink, purple and green. Spirit mantis shrimps guarded their burrows, Cuthona sibogae and blue dragons crept across the reef, and tiger-tail seahorses clung to gorgonians.
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Western Rocky, including the Islets, the Cave and Eagle’s Rock, delivered classic big-and-small contrasts. Schools of trevallies, fusiliers and yellowtail barracuda swept past lionfish, scorpionfish and titan triggerfish. Giant moray eels filled the Cave, alongside Glossodoris hikuerensis, Risbecia pulchella, Bornella anguilla, Hypselodoris decorata, blue dragons and octopus. Five-lined snappers filled the chamber, while the Islets revealed harlequin shrimps, honeycomb and leopard moray eels and flashing flasher wrasses.

At Sea Fan Forest, towering purple soft corals and massive sea fans framed a thriving reef. Giant stonefish rested among the bases, while sleeping giant moray eels, rainbow runners and golden trevallies passed through the forest of fans. Schools of neon and yellowback fusiliers streamed overhead, joined by coral and peacock groupers, wrasses, blennies, parrotfish and triggerfish.

Macro highlights were abundant: Bornella anguilla, juvenile and adult Chelidonura punctata mating and laying eggs, Goniobranchus collinwoodi, Glossodoris cincta, Goniobranchus geometrica, devil scorpionfish, mating pharaoh cuttlefish, zebra moray eels, banded sea snakes, octopus and ornamental nudibranchs.
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Some divers opted for a blackwater dive, encountering juvenile squids, larval crustaceans, tiny jellyfish, larval triggerfish and drifting eel larvae glowing in the darkness.

At Dendro’s Peak, giant, golden and bluefin trevallies hunted schools of juvenile and naked fusiliers. Rainbow runners sliced through the current, while stonefish, fimbriated moray eels and Chromodoris annulata decorated the reef. Common reef fish such as surgeonfish, butterflyfish, angelfish, wrasses and parrotfish filled the background.
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The following dives at Western Rocky focused heavily on macro. The Islets and Eagle’s Rock delivered Glossodoris rufomarginata, large Goniobranchus reticulata, Hypselodoris decorata, resting marble rays, maldivian sponge snails, Aldisa albatrossae and Bornella anguilla. The Cave continued the nudibranch parade with Glossodoris averni, polka-dot phyllidia and Phyllidiopsis species.
The day ended with our traditional BBQ and boat party under the stars.

Our final dive returned to Dendro’s Peak, where giant moray eels, Clark’s anemonefish, and schools of rainbow runners and trevallies provided a fitting farewell. Naked, neon and yellowback fusiliers, stonefish, banded, sea snakes filled the water column, while cowries and colourful nudibranchs such as juvenile goniobranchus annulata and gemini offered last macro moments.
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After surfacing, we headed back to Kawthung for Burmese immigration, shared a final drink at the Smile Bar, and returned to Ranong, closing another unforgettable Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks adventure aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse.

​After clearing Thai immigration in Ranong, we welcomed our international group, from Taiwan, Japan, France, Russia, USA, Norway, Spain and India on board and set course north toward Myanmar. Following a smooth immigration process in Kawthung, the Smiling Seahorse slipped into the vast maze of the Mergui Archipelago. Hundreds of islands, mangroves, and untouched reefs stretched around us as we sailed deeper into a region where tides and currents still dictate the rhythm of life. The evening was spent settling in, enjoying sunset on deck, and anticipating the first dives of the trip. Thanks for all the lovely photos you've shared, we've added a few more from previous trips to illustrate this blogpost and what was spotted this week :)

Our first two dives took place at South Twin Reef. Stonefish lay perfectly camouflaged on the reef, while a shy turtle cruised past before disappearing into the blue. Giant trevallies and rainbow runners swept through the current, and yellow-edged moray eels queued patiently at cleaning stations, mouths wide open like clients at an underwater dentist. Durban dancing shrimps, peacock mantis shrimps, blue sea stars, Indian cushion sea stars, Persian carpet flatworms, giant moray eels and bar-tail moray eels filled the reef with life. Schools of neon fusiliers, bannerfish, striped bristletooth surgeonfish and flashes of blue dragons completed the scene.
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Dive three brought us to North Twin Reef, where a vast granite plateau drops into coral bommies growing around and on top of the rock. Here we encountered gold-dotted flatworms, Maldivian sponge snails, blue dragons, Chromodoris annulata, and a giant moray eel enjoying a meticulous cleaning session by a banded boxer shrimp. Schools of yellowback fusiliers and naked fusiliers streamed over the reef.

​We dedicated the entire day to Black Rock, one of the most iconic dive sites of the Mergui Archipelago. The dives were packed with action: Bornella anguilla, anemone crabs, Clark’s anemonefish, and large schools of juvenile yellowback fusiliers mixed with naked fusiliers. We observed octopus mating, bearded scorpionfish, lionfish, peacock-tail anemone shrimps, squat shrimps and banded boxer shrimps. A yellow frogfish sat motionless on the reef, while zebra moray and tiger snake moray eels patrolled the rocks. Juvenile sweetlips hovered nervously, mackerels zipped past, and giant trevallies with rainbow runners dominated the blue.
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Dive two delivered a memorable highlight as oceanic mantas glided overhead, circling gracefully before vanishing into the deep. We ended the day with a festive BBQ on board, celebrating the final hours of 2025 while sailing toward Three Islets.

The first morning of 2026 began with stunning dives at Submarine, Shark Cave, and Square. Schools of naked fusiliers, juvenile yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers and blue-striped fusiliers filled the water column. Bamboo sharks rested under ledges, while octopus roamed the reef. Yellow-and-black tiger-tail seahorses, including juveniles, clung to the reef, alongside colonies of Chromodoris fidelis. We also encountered schools of yellowtail barracuda, scorpionfish, devil scorpionfish, banded snake eels, fimbriated and honeycomb moray eels, Cuthona sibogae, orange-spotted pipefish, Durban dancing shrimps, banded boxer shrimps and a marble ray cruising by.
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In the afternoon, we went ashore at Kyun Phila (Phila Island) to visit the local village, temple and beach, before returning to the boat for our first night dive of the year. The night dive delivered starry night octopus, five tiger-tail seahorses including two juveniles (one completely white), ambon crinoid shrimps, bubble shrimps, blunt decorated crabs, sleeping parrotfish cocooned in the reef, resting triggerfish wedged into rocks, soldierfish and squirrelfish emerging from crevices, and hunting moray eels cruising the sand.

Our first two dives took place at Seafan Forest. Pharaoh cuttlefish and broadclub cuttlefish hovered over the reef, while trevallies, rainbow runners and mackerel passed by in the blue. Emperor fish, peacock mantis shrimps, Chromodoris albopunctata mating, Chromodoris annulata, black frogfish, Chelidonura punctata and perfectly hidden stonefish kept everyone busy. Two dive groups also retrieved a large ghost net from the reef, a meaningful conservation effort.

The reef was alive with toby puffers from the Andaman Sea, porcupinefish, sharpnose puffers, titan and yellowmargin triggerfish, bullethead and steephead parrotfish, moon and cleaner wrasses, yellow and bluefin goatfish, combtooth blennies, coral and peacock groupers, white-eye moray eels, powder-blue and ringtail surgeonfish, blueface angelfish and pennant butterflyfish.

Dive three at Western Rocky, exploring the Cave, Islets and Eagle’s Rock, revealed pharaoh cuttlefish laying eggs deep in the rock, a giant moray eel waiting in the cave, cleaning shrimps, blunt decorated crabs, reef crabs, Durban dancing shrimps, Chromodoris annulata, Hypselodoris bullockii, Moridilla brocki and blue dragons. Wrasses were actively attacking sergeant major eggs in a lively display of reef drama.

Our first dive at Dendro’s Peak featured dogtooth tuna, rainbow runners, giant trevallies and narrow-barred Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus commerson). Pharaoh cuttlefish and stonefish shared the reef with streaming fusiliers, bluefin trevallies, coral groupers, longnose butterflyfish, cleaner wrasses and large barrel sponges sheltering clouds of glassfish.

Back at Sea Fan Forest, we encountered stonefish, cuttlefish, rainbow runners, peacock mantis shrimps hunting, Chromodoris annulata, Halgerda tessellata and Glossodoris hikuerensis. Giant sea fans covered in purple soft corals dominated the landscape, surrounded by schools of fusiliers, bannerfish, yellowtail butterflyfish, wrasses, blennies and juvenile angelfish hiding deep within the reef.

At Western Rocky, ghost pipefish drifted along the reef, alongside Bornella anguilla, Chromodoris annulata with eggs, Chromodoris risbecia tryoni with eggs, a giant moray eel waiting at the cave exit, Persian carpet flatworms mating, juvenile chromodoris and Flabellina bicolor.
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The night dive delivered ghost pipefish, big red reef crabs, a tiger cowrie gliding openly across the rock, massive Glossodoris hikuerensis with eggs, Chromodoris annulata, giant moray eels preparing to hunt, dark flatworms, squat shrimps, hermit crabs, leopard sea cucumbers, red sea stars and Indian cushion sea stars.

 ​Often nicknamed “Volcano” by divers, our final dive site is in fact Shark Lagoon, a spectacular collapsed rocky formation rather than a true volcanic crater. We entered the lagoon to admire the dramatic rock amphitheatre before starting our final dive along a sponge- and soft-coral-covered wall shaped by erosion and time. Chromodoris fidelis, tiger-tail seahorses, blue dragons, Risbecia pulchella, blue-ringed angelfish, two-lined spinecheeks, gold-saddled rabbitfish, dark surgeonfish and comet longfin fish accompanied us along the reef.

​Giant barrel sponges, purple and pink soft coral trees, schools of fusiliers, hawkfish, coral groupers, cleaner shrimps and swirling clouds of glassfish completed a calm, colorful, and fitting finale to our New Year journey in the Mergui Archipelago. After surfacing, we began our journey back toward civilisation, carrying with us memories of pristine reefs, festive New Year celebrations at sea, and unforgettable encounters in the wild heart of the Mergui Archipelago.

​We left Ranong’s Badin Pier after clearing Thai immigration, welcoming guests from France, Greece, Germany, USA, Malaysia, Singapore, Belgium, Ireland, and Italy. After a smooth Burmese immigration process in Kawthung, the Smiling Seahorse headed north into the Mergui Archipelago, a remote labyrinth of jungle-covered islands, quiet bays, and rarely visited reefs where diving still feels like exploration.

​Our check dive and second dive took place at South Twin Reef, easing everyone back into the water with a mix of macro and reef life. Flabellina and Chromodoris annulata covered the walls, while squat shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps shared space with peacock mantis shrimps. Schools of lined surgeonfish and ringtail surgeonfish cruised over the reef, joined by neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers. Dogtooth tuna patrolled the blue, giant moray eels peeked from the rocks, and batfish hovered calmly nearby, while tiny juvenile anemonefish added delicate flashes of pink.
Dive three brought us to North Twin Reef, where octopus activity was high, giant moray eels dominated the crevices, and Chromodoris annulata appeared again along the reef. A few coral groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, and titan triggerfish completed the scene.
The night dive in North Twin Bay was pure atmosphere. Curious octopus, squids, jellyfish sheltering tiny fish, big red reef crabs, scorpionfish, and bar-tail moray eels filled the darkness. Parrotfish and triggerfish were found sleeping, firmly wedged into the rock, their trigger spine locked in place to keep predators at bay, a perfect example of reef survival after sunset.

​We spent the full day at Black Rock, a dramatic offshore pinnacle where deep water, currents, and open ocean life constantly rewrite the dive plan. Morning dives were rewarded with curious oceanic manta rays circling above the reef, accompanied by schools of chevron barracuda, blacktip trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies, and bigeye trevallies. Great barracuda, giant moray eels, yellow-edged moray eels, and shy batfish added to the excitement, while coral groupers, peacock groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, and velvet surgeonfish filled the reef.
Macro life was everywhere, with anemone crabs, cleaner shrimps, squat shrimps, bearded scorpionfish, and colorful nudibranchs. Neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers formed dense clouds around the pinnacle, constantly shifting with the current.
The night dive revealed a different Black Rock, with pygmy squid hunting shrimps, devil scorpionfish, bar-tail moray eels, sleeping parrotfish, rabbitfish, and a stunning collection of cowries including tiger cowrie, money cowrie, and mole cowrie, along with basket stars and sea cucumbers carpeting the reef.

​We explored Three Islets, diving Submarine, Shark Cave, and Square. At Submarine, bamboo sharks rested calmly while cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish hovered above the reef. Schools of neon fusiliers, yellowback fusiliers, slender fusiliers, and twin stripe fusiliers mixed with chevron barracuda and passing trevallies including giant trevally, bluefin trevally, and golden trevally. A cobia hid among rainbow runners, while wahoo and mackerel cut through the blue. One lucky group even witnessed a whale shark cruising through the main channel.

​Shark Cave delivered classic scenes of tomato anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish guarding their eggs, anemone crabs, white-eye moray eels, schools of fusiliers, and wrasses repeatedly harassing sergeant majors protecting their nests.
At Square, tiger-tail seahorses stole the show alongside orange-spotted pipefish, golden trevallies, yellowtail barracuda, batfish, and spider crabs. The night dive added decorated crabs, sea snakes, cone snails, gorgonian crabs, and glowing nudibranchs to the mix.
After the final dive, we set course west toward the legendary Burma Banks, a remote chain of offshore seamounts rising from deep water and known for shark encounters and wide-open pelagic scenery.

​At Row Bank, adult and juvenile nurse sharks dominated the dives, cruising effortlessly above sandy slopes. Powder-blue surgeonfish and lined surgeonfish moved across the reef alongside oriental sweetlips and two-spot butterflyfish. Around the coral heads, coral groupers and peacock groupers patrolled calmly, while cleaner wrasse and sixline wrasse stayed busy at their stations. Between the rocks, leopard blennies and fang blennies popped in and out, joined by flashes of royal dottybacks adding color to the shadows.
At Rainbow Bank, the scene remained wide open and shark-filled, with more nurse sharks gliding past mangrove snappers and schools of humpback unicornfish and sleek unicornfish. The reef itself was alive with pastel ringwrasse, moon wrasse, and African coris sweeping over the bottom, while chalk bass and royal dottybacks hovered close to the structure. Tiny blennies guarded their holes as blue and gold fusiliers streamed overhead.
The final two dives at Coral Bank brought white-tip reef shark into the mix, accompanied by powder-blue surgeonfish, epaulette surgeonfish, and golden rabbitfish grazing along the reef. The smaller life stole the show here, with cleaner wrasse, blackear wrasse, dragon wrasse, leopard blennies, chalk bass, royal dottybacks, and juvenile damselfish filling every crevice, turning these quieter dives into beautifully detailed reef explorations.

​Three dives at Silvertip Bank delivered classic big-bank scenery with nurse sharks, silvertip reef sharks, bigeye emperors, powder-blue surgeonfish, lined surgeonfish, and humpback unicornfish cruising above the reef. Macro highlights included nudibranchs and a tapestry shrimp hiding inside a giant clam, while mappa pufferfish drifted lazily by.
The evening ended with a blackwater dive, revealing larval flounder, larval mantis shrimp, post-larval porcupinefish, flying fish larvae, pencil squid, purple-back squid, larval anemones, siphonophores, comb jellies, and clouds of drifting plankton glowing in the darkness.

​At Sea Fan Forest, giant purple soft corals and towering sea fans framed stonefish, sleeping giant moray eels, rainbow runners, and schools of neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers. The reef was alive with coral groupers, peacock groupers, wrasses, blennies, parrotfish, and triggerfish weaving through the coral forest.
The second dive turned into a true team effort as most divers joined a successful ghost net removal, freeing the reef from a massive abandoned net.
The afternoon and sunset dives at Western Rocky, covering the Islets, the Cave, and Eagle’s Rock, delivered schools of trevallies, fusiliers, yellowtail barracuda, lionfish, scorpionfish, titan triggerfish, ghost pipefish, giant moray eels, harlequin shrimps, and a spectacular Glossodoris cincta laying eggs. The day ended with our traditional BBQ and boat party under the stars.

​Our final dive took place at Dendro’s Peak, where pharaoh cuttlefish, giant moray eels, Clark’s anemonefish, schools of rainbow runners, bluefin trevallies, neon fusiliers, and yellowback fusiliers provided a perfect farewell.
We then headed back to Kawthung for Burmese immigration, shared a last beer at the Smile Bar, and returned to Ranong, closing another unforgettable Mergui and Burma Banks adventure aboard the Smiling Seahorse.

​We departed Ranong’s Badin Pier after clearing Thai immigration, welcoming guests from Switzerland, France, Canada, the USA, Australia, Austria, the Netherlands, Macau, New Zealand, and Belgium. After a smooth Burmese immigration process in Kawthung, we set sail north through the Mergui Archipelago, a vast maze of untouched islands, mangroves, and reefs where nature still sets the rhythm.

Our first dive at South Twin Reef eased everyone into the trip. Gold-saddle rabbitfish cruised above the reef while longbarbel goatfish sifted through the sand. Vagabond and Meyer’s butterflyfish fluttered around coral heads, joined by batfish and an octopus tucked safely into its den. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers streamed past checkered and five-lined snappers, while coral groupers and ringtail surgeonfish patrolled the hard coral slopes. Cleaner wrasses darted between passing fish, completing the scene.

Dives two and three at North Twin Reef brought more action. Blackfin barracudas formed tight schools in the blue, cuttlefish hovered above the reef, and scorpionfish blended perfectly into the background. Bicolor parrotfish grazed noisily, lionfish hovered motionless, and tiny gobies and blennies peeked out from coral cracks as moon wrasses and sixline wrasses zigzagged through the reef.
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As night fell, we launched our first blackwater dive, and it delivered instant magic. A marlin appeared out of the darkness, hunting right along the dive line. Sleeper lobsters drifted by clutching salps, spearing mantis shrimps flashed their raptorial arms, and jellyfish, comb jellies, and larvaceans filled the water column. Larval flounders, sea butterflies, crab larvae, flying squid, mahi-mahi, golden trevallies, and even a wandering moray eel made this an unforgettable first plunge into the deep pelagic night.

​We spent the entire day at Black Rock, one of the jewels of the Mergui Archipelago. Rising steeply from the depths, this exposed seamount is famous for big fish, strong currents, and surprises.

Dives one, two, and three were blessed with oceanic Manta rays gliding effortlessly around the divers, looping back again and again as if curious. Great barracudas, cobias, and massive schools of blackfin barracudas filled the blue, while yellowback and neon fusiliers shimmered around the rock. Chromodoris nudibranchs added color to the reef, octopuses hid among the boulders, and schools of jacks surged past. Among them swam schools of giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies, and bigeye trevallies, with the golden trevallies appearing to be in full mating display. A school of blacktip trevallies (Caranx heberi), an unusual sight, swept past the reef.”

The sunset dive revealed a different world. Clark’s anemonefish guarded their eggs fiercely, surrounded by anemone crabs, squat shrimps, marble shrimps, and banded boxer shrimps. Octopuses crept across the reef, Durban dancing shrimps waved from crevices, schools of black surgeonfish passed by, and African pompano cruised through the fading light. Porcupinefish, map puffers, bullet head parrotfish, and powder-blue surgeonfish rounded off the scene.
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Some divers opted for another blackwater dive, encountering pelagic seahorses, larval tuna, pencil squid, larval triggerfish, mini jacks sheltering inside salps, and post-larval African pompano drifting silently through the darkness.

We explored Three Islets, diving between Shark Cave, Submarine, and Square.
At Submarine, a bamboo shark rested under an overhang while cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish hovered nearby. Blue-spotted ribbontail rays glided across the sand, batfish cruised by, and the reef came alive with moon wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, yellowback fusiliers, damselfish, and map puffers.

Shark Cave revealed tomato and Clark’s anemonefish guarding their homes, anemone crabs waving from their tentacles, and white-eye moray eels peering from the shadows. Wrasses repeatedly attacked sergeant majors guarding their eggs, while schools of golden trevallies, yellow-lined fusiliers, and even a passing wahoo added excitement.
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At Square, we found tiger-tail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, yellowtail barracudas, giant trevallies hiding in cracks, golden trevallies, and batfish drifting calmly in the blue.
After the final dive, we set sail west toward the Burma Banks, a remote chain of offshore seamounts rising abruptly from deep water, known for big sharks, strong currents, and true blue-water diving.

Our first dive at Row Bank delivered classic Burma Banks scenery. Adult and juvenile nurse sharks rested on the sand, ringtail and epaulette surgeonfish grazed nearby, and honeycomb moray eels peeked from coral heads. Golden rabbitfish, two-spot butterflyfish, and oriental sweetlips mingled with small coral groupers, cleaner wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, juvenile angelfish, and cleaning shrimps.
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After the dive, the weather began to build. For safety reasons, we made the decision to leave the banks early and head back toward the shelter of the Mergui Archipelago. Spirits stayed high onboard, with time to relax, review photos, and enjoy the ride back through calmer waters.

Back at Western Rocky, the first two dives at the Cave and Eagle’s Rock offered rich macro life. Octopuses, harlequin shrimps, Spanish mackerel, Bornella nudibranchs, twin chromodoris, and colorful soft corals filled the walls. Schools of snapper and fusiliers passed by, while butterflyfish, angelfish, wrasses, and damselfish kept the reef buzzing.

The third dive and sunset at Sea Fan Forest brought cuttlefish, stonefish, octopuses, blacktail barracudas, and flowing schools of neon and yellowback fusiliers. Coral groupers, moon wrasses, parrotfish, butterflyfish, triggerfish, and clouds of damselfish swirled around the massive sea fans.

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That night, some divers slipped back into the dark for another blackwater dive, encountering sea snakes, salps, crab larvae, snapper larvae, cornetfish larvae, paper nautilus octopuses, sleeper lobsters, mantis shrimps, amphipods, and countless drifting creatures carried by the current.

An early morning dive at Sea Fan Forest set the tone for the day. Cuttlefish hovered over the reef, stonefish lay perfectly camouflaged on the bottom, and octopuses moved between coral heads. Peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows while yellow and brown trumpetfish drifted vertically along the sea fans. Red lionfish and clearfin lionfish hunted in the shadows, joined by devil scorpionfish resting motionless. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers streamed past, accompanied by lunar wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, and clouds of blue-green chromis.
We then returned to Western Rocky for three rich dives.

At the Cave, ghost pipefish swayed gently next to the wall, while blunt decorator crabs, white-spotted hermit crabs, and cleaning shrimps occupied every ledge. Giant moray eels watched from deep inside the cave, sharing the space with honeycomb moray eels. Nudibranchs such as leopard chromodoris and blue dragons added color, while Moorish idols cruised slowly past. The reef was busy with porcupinefish, map puffers, clown triggerfish, blueface angelfish, emperor angelfish, raccoon butterflyfish, and threadfin butterflyfish weaving through the coral.

At Eagle Rock, the action moved into the blue. Spanish mackerel cut through schools of jacks, including giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, and bigeye trevallies. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers wrapped the rock, mixed with five-lined snappers and yellow-lined snappers. Devil scorpionfish sat patiently on the bottom while several octopuses were spotted mating in the shallows. The reef itself was alive with moon wrasses, sixline wrasses, damselfish, skunk anemonefish, Clark’s anemonefish, coral groupers, honeycomb groupers, blennies peeking from holes, angelfish, butterflyfish, and triggerfish cruising between boulders.
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The final dive at the Islets was a macro lover’s dream. Harlequin shrimps danced on sea stars, twin chromodoris and blue dragons crawled across the reef, and pipefish hovered close to soft corals. Around them swam a colorful mix of damselfish, fairy wrasses, parrotfish, butterflyfish, juvenile angelfish, rabbitfish, and small snappers, bringing the day to a perfect close.

Our last dive of the trip took place at Dendro’s Peak, and it delivered a spectacular finale. Two giant marble rays glided effortlessly above the reef, while cuttlefish were seen mating on the top of the pinnacle, the male flashing intense patterns and colors to protect his female from rivals. Large schools of jacks and mackerel swept through the blue, joined by giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, and golden trevallies. Yellowback and neon fusiliers formed dense clouds over the reef, constantly on the move.

On the reef itself, bird wrasses, moon wrasses, and sixline wrasses darted between coral heads, while coral groupers and honeycomb groupers patrolled their territories. Bullethead parrotfish and bicolor parrotfish grazed noisily, surrounded by damselfish guarding their nests. Skunk anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish hovered above their anemones, and triggerfish cruised past, including yellow-margin triggerfish and titan triggerfish.
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After surfacing, we set course back toward Kawthung for Burmese immigration, shared a final goodbye beer onboard, and finally returned to Ranong to re-enter Thailand. A fitting end to an intense and unforgettable journey through the Mergui Archipelago, the Burma Banks, and the deep pelagic world of blackwater diving.

​The MV Smiling Seahorse set off once again for an exceptional cross-border adventure — a journey from Thailand’s Surin & Similan National Parks to Myanmar’s wild Mergui Archipelago. This week we welcomed our wonderful guests from Israel, excited to explore two countries, two ecosystems, and a whole spectrum of marine life.
After check-in and Thai immigration formalities, we boarded the boat and headed across the Pakchan River to Kawthung for Burmese immigration. Passports stamped, gear prepped, smiles wide — our expedition began.

​Our first dive at High Rock was the perfect warm-up. We drifted along the rocky outcrops and immediately met two tigertail seahorses hiding among the hard corals. Thornback boxfish hovered curiously near the walls while crocodile needlefish glided just under the surface. A busy peacock mantis shrimp scuttled across the sand, and Durban dancing shrimps flashed their white antennae from inside tiny crevices. Moray eels peeked out from the reef — fimbriated and white-eye morays sharing the same neighbourhood — and a cooperative group of four scribbled filefish swam past, changing colour as they fed. Schools of trumpetfish, lionfish, bearded scorpionfish, coral and peacock groupers, snappers, fusiliers, and a handful of blackfin barracudas filled the water column, with a white-tongue trevally circling us during the safety stop.

At Three Islets, the Submarine site gave us a lovely first encounter with a bamboo shark tucked into a rocky crack, and a turtle drifting lazily overhead. We found orange-spotted pipefish and the elegant nudibranch Chromodoris rufomarginata on the sandy slope. Shark Cave was buzzing with life; the entire cave shimmered with sweepers, and outside the entrance clouds of fusiliers pulsed in the current. Sergeant majors were fiercely defending their eggs while wrasses, angelfish, butterflyfish, and triggerfish opportunistically picked at any moment of distraction. Wahoos streaked through the blue, accompanied by a great barracuda, golden trevallies, and even a giant bicolour parrotfish. Square continued the spectacle with more tigertail seahorses, a giant moray, and well-hidden bearded scorpionfish.
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Our night dive around Square and Shark Cave was a treasure hunt of nocturnal critters. Five tigertail seahorses showed up, along with sponge spider crabs, decorated crabs, Godiva quadricolor nudibranchs, and sleepy pufferfish wedged among the corals. Soldierfish and cardinalfish hovered in the glow of our torches while hinge-beak shrimp and banded cleaner shrimp darted from rock to rock.

At North Twin Reef, we descended into crystal-clear blue water where sea snakes wove gracefully across the reef. Oriental sweetlips gathered in loose schools, and anemonefish bobbed in their host anemones. Giant morays, surgeonfish, and redtooth triggerfish patrolled the boulder fields. Seal-face pufferfish, boxfish, and a forest of staghorn, lettuce, and foliose corals created a vibrant underwater landscape.
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South Twin Reef delivered even more action with partner shrimps and peacock mantis shrimps scurrying along the sandy patches. Juvenile triggerfish flicked between coral heads while gold-saddle rabbitfish fed in tight groups. Four dogtooth tunas shot past in formation. Blue dragon nudibranchs were scattered everywhere, and the reef was alive with lined and stripe-bristletooth surgeonfish. A Jenkins ray rested on the sand beside a blue-spotted stingray, while yellow-edge and giant morays watched from shaded holes. An octopus shifted colours as we approached, and juvenile oriental sweetlips wiggled in their rhythmic dance. We ended the dive drifting over beautiful table corals and elegant funnel corals.

Our two dives at Sea Fan Forest were spectacular. We explored towering forests of gorgonians where another tigertail seahorse clung to the branches. Yellow-lined and neon fusiliers filled the water column, pursued by rainbow runners weaving through the openings. We found several octopus, stonefish, and devil scorpionfish, along with nudibranchs such as Chromodoris, Risbecia annulata, and Geometrica. Zebra morays slithered over the rocks, yellow trumpetfish hovered motionlessly beside sea fans, and peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows. Juvenile boxfish, needlefish, and a perfectly-patterned young emperor angelfish added splashes of colour. A curious cuttlefish rounded off the dive with a gentle display of shifting patterns.

At Western Rocky, we entered the famous cave with octopus and cuttlefish patrolling the entrance. Coral-banded shrimp and red reef crabs clung to the walls, and we spotted a delicate wentletrap snail and a striking Maldivian sponge snail on the sandy floor. Blue dragon nudibranchs added flashes of purple and white as we continued along the reef, passing bannerfish, goatfish, snappers, and butterflyfish enjoying the current.
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Our sunset dive around the Western Rocky islets unfolded beautifully as clouds of fusiliers, sergeant majors, and damsels swirled around us. Harlequin shrimps crept delicately over the rocks, and more Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef. White-tongue trevallies chased schools of baitfish, accompanied by scribbled filefish, pyjama surgeonfish, rainbow runners, golden trevallies, and a pack of blacktail barracudas. At one point, two giant morays squeezed together inside the same hole, seemingly unbothered by each other's presence.

Back at Dendro’s Peak, we descended along a slope draped in purple soft corals. Yellow-lined, neon, and yellowback fusiliers streamed past in glittering clouds while rainbow runners and mackerel darted along the edges. Bannerfish hovered near coral heads, trevallies patrolled the shallows, and a banded sea snake explored the cracks. Zebra morays peeked out from the reef, and coral groupers hunted through the bommies. A large turtle drifted peacefully overhead — and then the highlight of the day arrived as two magnificent manta rays swept gracefully above us, circling repeatedly.

The afternoon dives at Sea Fan Forest were equally memorable. Fusiliers filled every corner of the reef, and another tigertail seahorse clung to a sea fan. A pharaoh cuttlefish hovered confidently before drifting away into the blue. Pickhandle barracudas and golden trevallies patrolled the sandy patches while batfish, moorish idols, and titan triggerfish appeared throughout the site. A large tiger cowrie, several anthias, wrasses, butterflyfish, and damsels added detail to the coral scene. More octopus and a well-camouflaged stonefish ended the day.
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That night’s blackwater dive was exceptionally special, featuring a female paper nautilus drifting like a delicate origami shell. Larval wrasses and tiny fish sheltering inside jellyfish floated through the dark, and we found many larval triggerfish and fish living inside salps — a perfect finale to the drifting night.

We re-entered Thailand in the early hours and cruised south toward Richelieu Rock, where perfect conditions awaited us.
What Makes Richelieu Rock Famous?

• A horseshoe-shaped pinnacle covered in purple and pink soft corals
• Massive schools of trevallies, barracudas, and snappers
• Incredible macro life: ghost pipefish, harlequin shrimps, tiger eggs cowries
• Historically known for whale shark sightings
• Named after Admiral Andreas du Plessis de Richelieu, a Danish officer who served as Commander-in-Chief of the Royal Siamese Navy — not the French cardinal, despite the popular legend

Our first dive at Richelieu Rock was enchanting. Dense schools of glassfish wrapped the entire reef in a shimmering veil. Longnose emperors worked in tight groups, flashing brilliant colours as they hunted, while giant trevallies, bluefins, white-tongue trevallies, and bigeyes patrolled the edges. Batfish hovered calmly around the cleaning stations, and titan triggerfish bulldozed their way along the bottom. Octopus displayed quick colour changes, and huge potato groupers watched us from between the cracks. White-eye, zebra, and yellow-edge moray eels peeked from the crevices, and tiny tiger-egg cowries clung to sea fans. Nudibranchs including chromodoris and flabellina added delicate splashes of colour while bannerfish, wrasses, dartfish, anthias, and butterflyfish decorated every corner of the reef.
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Our night dive at Surin South (Ao Pakkard) offered a different perspective. Giant red crabs prowled the sandy areas, Durban dancing shrimps and marble shrimps flickered under our torches, and boxer-banded shrimps waved their oversized claws. Parrotfish, surgeonfish, and pufferfish were already tucked into their nighttime hideouts, while barracudas sliced through the dark hunting yellowback fusiliers.

We returned to Richelieu Rock for two more morning dives filled with action. Longnose emperors swam in the shallows where cleaners worked tirelessly around their open mouths. Giant trevallies and chevron barracudas surged through the schools of glassfish. We found beautiful harlequin shrimps, cleaner and orange-spotted pipefish, and several potato groupers cruising the bommies. Boxfish, angelfish, needlefish, cobia, black snapper, and African pompano all made appearances. A large marble ray glided past us to complete the scene.
Similan National Park Highlights

• Famous for giant granite boulders and white-sand beaches
• Excellent visibility and vivid blue water
• Frequent encounters with manta rays, whale sharks, and giant trevallies
• Beautiful coral gardens with sea fans, hard corals, and soft coral patches

Our third dive at Koh Tachai brought us into the energetic mix this site is known for. Bluefin trevallies and chevron barracudas hunted in packs while giant trevallies and dogtooth tunas patrolled the deeper zones. Marble groupers rested on the bommies while longfin bannerfish, unicorn surgeonfish, angelfish, and massive swarms of fusiliers filled the reef. Lobsters and snappers hid among the corals, and batfish drifted by in lazy groups.
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At Koh Bon, we explored the ridge and bay where hard corals glowed beautifully in the afternoon light. A baby blacktip shark cruised the shallows while an octopus hid in a coral crack. Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef. The dive ended with colourful scenes full of wrasses, goatfish, butterflyfish, damsels, and scorpionfish, with the occasional wahoo and giant moray cruising through the dusk.

​Our last day took us south to Racha Noi, where Banana Bay offered a relaxed sandy slope with scattered bommies teeming with damsels, redtooth triggerfish, Meyer’s butterflyfish, fiveline and checkered snappers, longbarbel goatfish, squirrelfish, and gold-saddle rabbitfish. A banded sea snake glided along the reef, and a mantis shrimp, guarded closely by its pair of squat shrimps, kept watch from its burrow.
At Manta Reef, we found Glossodoris cincta​, a snowflake moray, and several seal-face pufferfish drifting over the sandy bottom. Garden eels swayed in the light current as blue-spotted rays glided past. Butterflyfish, damsels, and a bearded scorpionfish rounded out the dive while yellowback fusiliers danced above in glittering swirls.

​From Myanmar’s caves and giant sea fans to Thailand’s iconic reefs, this trip delivered unforgettable moments: manta rays, seahorses, endless fusiliers, dramatic landscapes, and amazing energy from our guests.
Thank you to our wonderful divers from Israel for sharing this week with us and their wonderful photos to illustrate this blogpost!
See you soon for another adventure with the MV Smiling Seahorse! 🐟💙

​The MV Smiling Seahorse officially launched the new diving season with a second unforgettable adventure across Myanmar’s remote waters — from the mysterious limestone islands of the Mergui Archipelago to the vast, sandy plateaus of the Burma Banks.
Our second group of the season — joining us from France — gathered at the pier in Ranong with bright smiles and even brighter expectations. After completing the immigration formalities and crossing into Myanmar via Kawthung, passports were stamped, bags stowed, and spirits high as we set course into the wild blue.

​Our check dive at High Rock revealed the season’s first treasures: tigertail seahorse, pickhandle barracudas, swirling fusiliers and jacks, peacock mantis shrimps, white-eyed moray eels, Spanish mackerel, and even a curious rainbow runner. Thornback boxfish, pharaoh cuttlefish, and orange-spotted pipefish rounded off the dive — an explosion of colour to start the trip.
The following dives took us to the magical Three Islets:

• Dive 2 – “The Square & Shark Cave”:  tigertail seahorses, cuttlefish, blue dragons, Durban dancing shrimps, porcelain crabs (one of them carrying eggs!) , zebra and banded snake eels, and playful cleaner pipefish.
• Dive 3 – “Submarine & Shark Cave”: the tunnels echoed with life — yellowtail barracudas, golden trevallies, a gliding eagle ray, tomato anemonefish, tigertail seahorse, a stonefish, a bamboo shark, and several moray eels.

Our night dive at Shark Cave & Square was pure magic — nine tigertail seahorses, including some mating! Add to that toadfish, cone snails on the move, sleeping parrotfish, soldierfish, and crustaceans galore — a proper nocturnal parade.
That night, the Smiling Seahorse pointed her bow north toward the legendary Black Rock.

​Four dives in total, each more electric than the last. One lucky group spotted a manta ray early in the day, while others drifted among eagle rays, cobias, tunas, yellowtail barracudas, and dense schools of bigeye trevallies.
Amid the action, we admired white devil scorpionfish, octopus, peacock mantis shrimps, lionfish, and patches of vibrant soft corals home to butterflyfish and wrasses.
A sunset dive sealed the day — schools of sergeant fish guarding their eggs, bannerfish, snappers, and reef octopus emerging as the light faded.

​North Twin Pinnacle: barracudas, fusiliers, red snappers, and a few dogtooth tunas gliding in the blue.
At North Twin Reef, we crossed paths with broadclub cuttlefish, banded sea snakes, giant morays, mantis shrimps, and vibrant corals where angelfish, triggerfish, and surgeonfish danced in the current.
At South Twin Reef, two dives revealed Maldivian sponge snails, marbled groupers, schools of surgeonfish, pyjama surgeonfish, juvenile sweetlips, a fleeting whitetip reef shark, blue ribbon eels, and another elegant wahoo cruising by.
As the sun dipped, we turned our compass westward toward the open ocean — and the mythical Burma Banks.

​The Roe Bank welcomed us with two nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a graceful mangrove whipray, and dogtooth tunas patrolling the edges.
At Coral Bank, the spectacle continued: more nurse sharks, a marble ray, honeycomb moray eels, and a bustling coral city alive with emperor and royal angelfish, neon fusiliers, powder-blue sergeants, velvet surgeonfish, clown triggerfish, trevallies, and Napoleon wrasses.
Even the safety stops were lively — schools of jacks and snappers swirling in golden light.

​The two morning dives at Rainbow Bank were a perfect blend of serenity and adrenaline. Marble rays, nurse sharks snoozing under bommies, clouds of fusiliers, surgeonfish, tunas, great barracudas, royal angelfish, giant sweetlips, potato groupers, and grey reef sharks filled the blue.
A third dive at Silvertip Bank offered encounters with Napoleon wrasses, grey reef sharks, and another nurse shark gliding past gracefully.
One group opted for a sunset dive among vibrant reef life — bannerfish, butterflyfish, wrasses, and anthias painting the scene — while the rest of the guests embarked on a surreal blackwater dive, drifting with larval anemonefish, eel larvae, stargazers, pyrosomes, siphonophores, venus girdles, and glowing comb jellies under the stars.

​At Sea Fan Forest, enormous gorgonians lined the reef like underwater cathedrals. Neon fusiliers, trevallies, glassfish, pickhandle barracudas, and curious mantis shrimps mingled with stonefish, anemone crabs, and longnose hawkfish.
At Western Rocky, the current brought white-tongue trevallies, yellowfin barracudas, and marble shrimps out to play.
Our night dive at Western Rocky was a treasure hunt — sleeping trevallies, massive sponge crabs, feather star squat lobsters, giant morays, tiny shrimps on whip coral, coral cowries, phenacovolva snails, and even a sea butterfly fluttering through the torchlight.

We enjoyed a delicious barbecue dinner that night, featuring spare ribs, hand-cut French fries, tomates à la provençale, a fresh salad assortment, grilled chicken wings and sausages, along with potatoes en robe des champs served with a rich garlic butter.

​Back at Sea Fan Forest, we spotted lionfish, devil scorpionfish, a fimbriated moray sharing its crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
Our final dives at Eagle Rock, The Cave, and The Islets revealed pickhandle barracudas, longnose emperors, dogtooth tunas, boxfish, porcupinefish, nudibranchs like Chromodoris reticulata and Glossodoris cincta, harlequin shrimps, leopard morays, rainbow runners, and Napoleon wrasses.

​Our final dive brought a fitting finale: schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, a majestic great barracuda, banded sea snake, and one last fimbriated moray waving us goodbye.
With our tanks empty but our hearts full, we headed back to Kawthaung for our traditional Burmese beers, immigration clearance, and the sail back to Ranong.
The second expedition of the season was everything we’d hoped for — thrilling dives, wonderful guests, and the timeless magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks. A big thank you to our wonderful guests for illustrating this blogpost with their photos!
Until next time — see you underwater aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse!

​The MV Smiling Seahorse kicked off the new diving season with a spectacular journey through the remote waters of Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago and the legendary Burma Banks. Departing from Ranong, our first group of adventurers — joining us from France, Switzerland, Belgium, Ireland, the US, and the UK — gathered with excitement at the pier.
After check-in, we completed the usual immigration formalities in Ranong before crossing the border to Kawthung, Myanmar. With passports stamped and smiles all around, we set course toward the mysterious Mergui Archipelago — a place of dramatic limestone and granit boulder islands, lush jungle cliffs, and some of the most vibrant underwater life in the Andaman Sea.

​Our check dive at High Rock was the perfect start, offering calm conditions and an easy descent into a thriving coral reef. Among the swaying soft corals, we spotted oriental sweetlips, butterflyfish, blue damsels, and curious bannerfish darting between the rocks — a beautiful welcome back to Burmese waters.
Our second dive took us to Three Islets (Square), alive with action! Schools of fusiliers and white tongue jacks swirled above the reef, while a tigertail seahorse and an orange-spotted pipefish delighted our macro enthusiasts. Blue-lined snappers, Moorish idols, and a few playful anemonefish added even more colour to the scene.
Dive three at Three Islets (Shark Cave) brought strong surges, so we explored around the island instead of entering the cave. The current carried schools of pickhandle barracudas past walls of soft corals where tomato anemonefish guarded their homes.
For the night dive, we returned to Shark Cave. Under torchlight, we found barracudas cruising the dark, parrotfish sleeping soundly in their mucus bubbles, a seal-face pufferfish tucked into a crack, and a curious pharaoh cuttlefish. We also encountered soldierfish, cardinalfish, and a few colourful wrasses hunting under the beams of our lights.
That night, we set sail toward the famous Black Rock.

​At sunrise, we descended on Black Rock’s north side, greeted by schools of bigeye jacks, barracudas, lionfish, and snapper clouds drifting in the blue.
Our second dive on the south side was pure magic — mantas! Not one, but four graceful oceanic manta rays soared through the current, looping and gliding as dogtooth tunas patrolled below.
The third and fourth dives kept the action going, with dense schools of jacks, fusiliers, and surgeonfish swirling through the water column. A leopard moray eel peeked from a crevice during the sunset dive, a perfect finale to a spectacular day.

​North Twin Pinnacle — the current-fed site teeming with barracudas, fusiliers, and red snappers. We admired tiger  egg cowries, moray eels, and a few curious dogtooth tunas cruising by.
At North Twin Reef, we met a banded sea snake weaving through coral bommies, an octopus changing colours before our eyes, and a squad of batfish gliding gracefully in the blue. Mantis shrimps and lobsters completed the day’s macro highlights.
After our final dive, the Smiling Seahorse set course westward for the Burma Banks — a legendary chain of submerged plateaus rising from the depths of the Andaman Sea, located about 180 km offshore. These vast, remote reefs are known for their big pelagic life and pristine coral formations.

​Our first dives at Roe Bank revealed a world of giants — several nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a mangrove whipray, and schooling black surgeonfish weaving around coral heads. Dogtooth tunas patrolled the outer slopes, keeping smaller reef fish in constant motion.
At Rainbow Bank, the spectacle continued — nurse sharks again, a stunning marble ray, three honeycomb moray eels, and a vibrant reef alive with emperor angelfish, surgeonfish, batfish, and butterflyfish. A Maldives sponge snail was spotted nestled among the corals — a treat for our keen-eyed photographers.

​The morning dives at Coral Bank lived up to its name — hard corals in excellent condition, surrounded by nurse sharks, whitetip reef sharks, and a flurry of wrasses, triggerfish, and parrotfish.
At Silvertip Banks, the energy was palpable. Grey reef sharks patrolled the plateau, nurse sharks lounged near coral heads, and a swimming zebra shark passed by trough clouds of anthias, surgeonfish, and bannerfish shimmered in the current.

​Back among the islands, we explored Sea Fan Forest, where enormous gorgonian fans hosted ghost pipefish and schools of fusiliers and trevallies.
At Western Rocky Eagle Rock, large schools of white tongue trevallies and yellowfin barracudas filled the blue, while marble shrimps hid in the cracks.
Our sunset dive in Western Rocky Cave brought us face to face with two Glossodoris nudibranch protecting its eggs, curious cuttlefish, and colourful reef fish preparing for nightfall.

​We returned to Sea Fan Forest in the morning, spotting lionfish, devil scorpionfish, and a stunning fimbriated moray eel sharing a crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
At Western Rocky Cave, a beautiful Chromodoris nudibranch added a pop of colour, while the final dives at Eagle Rock delivered dramatic cuttlefish mating and fighting scenes, plus a rare Pikachu nudibranch — the perfect finale for our photographers!

Our last dive at Dendro’s Peak brought one more burst of colour — schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, and even a curious yellow boxfish to send us off.
With the dives complete, we headed back toward Kawthung for our traditional Burmese beers and final immigration clearance before returning to Ranong. The first trip of the season set the tone perfectly — thrilling dives, great company, and the magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks welcoming us back once again.
See you underwater on our next adventure with MV Smiling Seahorse!