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Blog about diving in Burma and Thailand

Trip report : Back to Burma from 28th of October to 3rd of November 2023

9/11/2023

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Diving Burma november 2023 trip report
back in Myanmar, post covid trip report!
Second trip of this season saw us back (finally) in Myanmar! In a triumphant return after more than three years, we were thrilled to dive again the mystical waters of Mergui Archipelago.

A diverse assemblage of thrilled guests, journeying from Singapore, Malaysia, Switzerland, Germany, India, and two local diving enthusiasts from Myanmar, graced our vessel.

Our cruise started in the early afternoon in Ranong and after crossing the Kraburi River, we met with Myanmar officials in Kawthoung who were nearly as excited as we were to see a boat heading back this side of the border after such a long break!

The Smiling Seahorse has been diving Mergui Archipelago since 2012 and while we now offer cruises all over Thai waters, this adventurous destination remained our flagship.


All paperwork was in order and we were soon free to cruise towards a wonderful sunset!
The Voyage Commenced at South Twin!
The inaugural day commenced with our eager group diving around South Twin. Blessed with exceptional visibility, the ocean offered a display of thriving marine life. The fortuitous encounters with a majestic turtle, the elusive octopus, a vibrant mantis shrimp, and an array of reef fish adorning the vibrant reefs set an exhilarating tone for the expedition.
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schooling bannerfish myanmar expedition 2023
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seahorse portrait
Venturing North: Kyun Phi Lar and the Enigmatic Shark Cave
Our northbound journey led us to Kyun Phi Lar, where the allure of Shark Cave beckoned. The healthy reef teemed with life—marbled rays, barracuda, the exquisite seahorse (was it smiling to see us?), a myriad of colourful nudibranchs, and the mesmerising Spanish dancer were just a few of the underwater treasures that graced our explorations.
baby seahorse myanmar
marble ray mergui
diving with a barracuda western rocky
Exploration at Black Rock: Unveiling Underwater Grandeur
We spent the following day at the infamous Black Rock, captivating us beyond measure. The site lived up to its prestigious reputation, hosting an astounding spectacle of marine life. Schools of jackfish, the impressive dogtooth tuna, the enigmatic spearer mantis shrimp, and the resplendent sea anemones, engulfing one side of the rock, left us spellbound.
infinite school of trevalli
Southbound Bound for North Twin: A Pinnacle of Aquatic Grandiosity
Our journey southward led us back to the Twin islands but this time we dived around the majestic North Twin and its awe-inspiring pinnacle. The sheer abundance of aquatic life surrounding this challenging pinnacle was a sight to behold. Schools of big-eye jacks, barracudas, rainbow runners, surgeon fish, and tunas orchestrated an underwater ballet. Delving deeper into the reef revealed a microcosm of macro creatures—cowries, shrimps, and nudibranchs, adding an extra layer of marvel to our diving experience.

For the night dive, we throw our bright pumpkin in the water and got ready for the first ever Myanmar Blackwater Dive!!!

pompano blackwater dive
blackwater diving line and pumpkin
blackwater crab
blackwater diving in Myanmar
blackwater diving in Burma
pelagic snake Myanmar
Unveiling the Sea Fan Forest: Encounters with the Majestic Birostris Mobula
Our anticipation peaked as we revisited the remarkable Seafan Forest. The highlight of our journey unfurled as we were graced by the presence of the majestic Birostris Mobula, commonly known as the Giant Oceanic Manta Ray. The forest of sea fan is still intact and what an amazing place to explore!
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manta ray in Mergui archipelago November 2023
Later that day, Western rocky was also up to our expectations, on the reef, in the blue, inside and outside the cave. Our sunset dive on Eagle Rock was like diving inside a dense school of fish.
​
Gratitude and Celebrations
As the voyage drew to a close, we extend our heartfelt gratitude to everyone who contributed to the success of this extraordinary trip. Special congratulations to Elaine for achieving her AOW and Nitrox certifications, Jessica for her AOW, and Martin and Navya for earning their Nitrox certifications. A heartfelt thanks to Franck for capturing the magic through his wonderful pictures.
This seven-day journey was not just an exploration but a collective immersion into the mesmerizing depths of Myanmar's aquatic wonders. It was so wonderful to be the first back in this amazing place and we sure look forward for more!

​Each dive, encounter, and shared experience further strengthened the bond between our diverse group of adventurers, leaving an indelible mark on our souls and kindling an insatiable desire for future expeditions. As we bid good bye to these mystical waters, we carry with us a trove of memories and a pledge to return, lured by the unexplored mysteries of the ocean.
group picture on the Smiling Seahorse first Myanmar trip


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Camille Rovillain

Camille's love for travel and diving began in her mid-twenties, taking her across oceans and continents before she finally settled in Thailand. In 2012, she co-founded The Smiling Seahorse, driven by a desire to explore and share some of Southeast Asia’s most remote and unexplored dive destinations.
A proud mother of two, Camille still hops onboard The Smiling Seahorse every month. Passionate about macro life, she delights in guiding fellow enthusiasts on unforgettable dives across the Andaman Sea — from Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago all the way to Thailand’s Malaysian border.

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  • When & Where
    • Schedule and Prices
    • Destinations >
      • North Andaman Thailand >
        • Similan Islands
        • Surin Islands >
          • Richelieu Rock
        • The essential Underwater photo Guide to diving Thailand
      • South Andaman Thailand >
        • Phuket & Koh Phi Phi National Parks
        • Koh Lanta National Park
        • Koh Lipe and Tarutao National Park
      • Mergui Archipelago >
        • Liveaboard diving holiday in Myanmar
        • Burma's best dive sites
        • The Ultimate Underwater photo Guide to diving Burma
  • ABOUT
    • Our Boat >
      • Emergency equipments & procedures
      • DELICIOUS FOOD
    • Diving in Thailand in 2025-2026
    • Diving in Myanmar/Burma in 2025-2026
    • Blackwater diving in Thailand and Myannmar
    • Marine life in Thailand's Andaman Sea
    • Marine life in Mergui Archipelago
    • Dive Courses >
      • Learn to Dive
      • Continue diving education
      • Rescue diver
      • Professional Dive Courses
      • Hone your dive skills with a specialty course
      • Photo coaching in Thailand on the Smiling Seahorse
    • Guest Book
    • FAQ
  • Plan your trip
    • Our hotels recommendations
    • Khao Sok National Park
    • Taxi services >
      • Taxi services to and from Ranong
      • Taxi services to and from Phuket
      • Taxi services to Tap Lamu and Khao Lak
    • 10 things to do around Ranong
  • PROMO
    • HOT DEALS
    • Special Expeditions >
      • 8D Whale shark expedition - 20 March 2026 - North and South
  • gallery
    • Photos
    • Videos
  • CONTACT
  • BLOG
    • Most popular posts