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Blog about diving in Burma and Thailand

Trip report: South and North Andaman from the 28th December to the 4th January

22/1/2024

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Exploring the Underwater Wonders of Andaman Sea: A Week of Adventure
 
It was a pleasure welcoming back several returning guests this week and forging new friendships, our week was a celebration of exploration, discovery, and the marvels beneath the ocean's surface and a Big thank you to the Photographers (Greg, Yana and Shelley) for the wonderful photos illustrating this article!
 
This cruise welcomed an exceptionally large number of snorkelers onboard as a French family of 4 decided to join as non-divers and another scuba divers had to remain on the surface most of the time due to a health issue.  They were all delighted to be introduced the wonders of the underwater world in the glorious Andaman Sea.
Nudibrandh on green carpet
pretty nudi courtesy of Yana
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Coral pattern - courtesy of Yana
First day  of diving at Koh Lanta National park :
 
Our diving escapades commenced at Koh Ha Lagoon, a haven adorned with an array of nudibranchs and comet long fins. Ghost pipefish enchanted both divers and avid photographers, setting the stage for an underwater symphony of colors and shapes.
 
Hin Muang Hin Muang unfolded a spectacle of Longnose Emperors and Trevallies in a hunting frenzy. Amidst the reef's nooks, Cleaner Shrimps, Morays, Scorpionfish and two bulky stonefish captivated our adventurous souls.
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Frogfish - Courtesy Yana
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Diving in Black and White - Yana
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June posing next to a seafan, courtesy Shelley
Venturing twice to Hin Daeng that afternoon, we witnessed a fish extravaganza—yellow fusiliers hunted down by some massive giant trevallies for the third dive, and we got invited to a true nudibranch party on the night dive : bornella, pink cowries, flat worms… If sea slugs arent’your thing, loads of shrimps and crabs scurried around from decorator spider crabs to old hermit crabs passing by the abundance of saron shrimps.
 
Some morays (some massive) came out of their holes on the hunt for their last meal of the day.
 
But not every creature is active at night and we also saw a sleepy filefish, dozy porcupine fish and, tucked underneath a shelf of coral, a yellow longnose butterfly fish sleeping upside down.
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Pretty pink cowry - Courtesy Yana
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Squat shrimp
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Crown of Thorn - Courtesy Yana
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Pastel Nudi - Courtesy Shelley
Second day : Lipe and Tarutao National park
 
At 8 miles, we were greeted by vast schools of trevallies and a charming baby Tigertail Seahorse.
Our second dive at 8 miles coincided with a huge school of big eyes trevallies and giant trevallies heading up to the cleaning stations.
We saw loads of othe schooling reef fish including red toothed triggerfish and quite a few Titan Triggerfish.
 
Pattaya corner in the afternoon was home to a baby Tigertail Seahorse and many cute nudibranchs. Only one frogfish could be found that day, but who knows how many looked at us passing by…
Filefish are usually quite shy, but we met a very inquisitive individual that let us come very close so we could appreciate its intricate details.
seahorse
Tigertail Seahorse - Courtesy Shelley
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Bent stick pipefish
3rd day : Koh Lanta National Park
 
Back to the purple rock of Hin Muang, we got enchanted by the big schools of trevallies, rainbow runners, tunas and makerel in the blue…
The stone fish were still in their hiding spot and so were marble shrimps, cleaner shrimps, all types of moray eels (yellow moray, giant moray, fibriated moray…) an eclectic mix of marine life, including an adorable baby Indian Toby, longfin comet fish and Moorish idols.
Hin Daeng painted a canvas of vivid colors with yellow-edged lyretail, peacock grouper, and a diverse congregation of two dots snappers mixed with checkered snappers.
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A couple of Indian sailfin surgonfish was grazing around following eachother on the reef and it was nice to take a closer look at the many sea cucumbers and seastars of all types and colors. The prettiest is probably the crown of thorns with its many purple arms, we love them for their look but hate them for their diet as they feed on the polips leaving dead coral in their trail.
 
Koh Haa  cathedral housed a delightful array of nudibranchs like Bornella Anguilla and Blue Dragons, rendering the dive site a colourful, underwater wonderland.
A crinoid opened up for our curious eyes to show a clingfish in its abode. Many cute blennies, my favorite being the bluestriped fangblenny with 2 very bright blues tripes often seen taking a bite of fishing coming for a clean…
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Fourth day : Similan national park
There was nice blue warm water at Shark Fin Reef with white tip sharks coming to say hi and plenty of fish to add colour to the underwater scene. We saw clown triggerfish, fairy basslets, butterfly fish, bannerfish, moorish idols, angelfish, morays and so much more….
We were joined by powderblue surgeon fish and lined surgeonfish up at the safety stop.
 
Elephant Head had provided sightings of ribbon eels, skeleton shrimps, black blotched porcupine fish with giant trevallis patrolling the top. I had fun with a jawfish who played with my laser. Our divers saw Orange Pipefish hiding in plain sight on the identically colored rocks.
 
Three Tree had a stronger current, but the shallow reef was gorgeous with plenty of tropical fish roaming around – plus a turtle. Yellow margin triggerfish were frequent along the sandy patches, which are also home to large groups of garden eels.
 
Night dive at Koh Bon was good but outdone by the Sunset Dive which was super fishy with hunting action!
The dark bay whispered tales of parrotfish preparing their bubble beds and the serene presence of cuttlefish, evoking a sense of underwater tranquility.
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courtesy Shelley Xia
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Big blotch sting rays hang out at Koh Bon these days
Fifth day : Bon and Tachai
 
We saw a massive marble ray and a jenkin ray the next morning close to a very pretty pinnacle. A massive school of batfish with attendant Rabbitfish kept us company and we spotted Hawkfish posing on corals.
 
Koh Tachai was also thick with many trevallies, emperors, groupers and schools of bannerfish. There were multiple seafans, small and large, and even a lobster colony.
A spectacular vortex of barracudas, including one or two giant barracudas, patrolled the site. It is always fascinating to watch octopus change their colour and texture to match it’s surroundings – and then disappear like a magician.
 
The happy snorkelers saw multiple sharks (black and white tip) nearly every day, as well as several turtles, banded seakraits, schools of squids and Moray eels out on the hunt.  They were frequently joined by large schools of Chevron and Yellow Tailed Barracudas and Emporers as they swam along the surface, with the Emporers changing colour as they foraged for food.
 
They even tried blackwater snorkeling that night (along with intrepid divers), where they saw many salps and tiny juvenile mantis shrimp, amongst other alien looking creature.
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small fish in Phirosome home - Courtesy Shelley Xia
blackwater thailand
courtesy Yana
squid thailand blackwater diving
courtesy Shelley Xia
Sixth day : Surin National Park – Richelieu Rock
 
Richelieu Rock, a diver's paradise rated top 10 in the world, unveiled its wonders with a tantalizing mix of marine life. The diverse spectacle began with trevallies engaging in their mesmerizing mating rituals, accompanied by a vibrant entourage of rainbow runners and majestic emperors.
 
The visibility wasn’t perfect on the first dives but it became better and better throughout the day and ended with a crystal-clear visibility on the last dive. There were so many different types of trevallis (golden, giant, blue, bigeye) swimming all around.
Marble shrimps had a few fans but Harlequin shrimps stole our hearts with their amazing colors and the fact they are much more photogenic…
 
The snorkelers weren’t left behind as they continued their run of good luck and swam above the thick schools of giant trevallies, longnose emperors, and Rainbow Runners.
 
The elusive Picasso triggerfish and the striking red saddleback anemonefish added bursts of color to the already vivid reef scene.
Picture
courtesy Shelley Xia
Picture
courtesy Shelley Xia
The topography of Richelieu Rock was a canvas adorned with treasures—a couple of spotty boxfish, bannerfish gracefully swaying in the currents, and an array of nudibranchs such as Chromodoris anulata, flabellina exoptata, and moridilla brocki, offering a kaleidoscope of shapes and colors.
 
Amidst the coral landscape, baby angelfish and trumpetfish found refuge, while the ever-watchful mantis shrimps added an air of mystery to this thriving ecosystem.
 
As the day unfolded, Richelieu Rock revealed its intricate details, beckoning us to explore further. Every sighting, from the smallest sea slug to the grandest trevally dance, painted a picture of the sea's infinite wealth.
 
The Surin National Park's depths proved once again to be a haven of awe-inspiring beauty, leaving us with memories that echo the splendor of the ocean's wonders.
 
The very last dive took place at Boonsoon wreck were we appreciated the honeycom murrays and myriad of porcupinefish pattroling the top under a thick cloud of fusiliers, makrels and trevallie on top. It was hard to spot the surface as the schools of fish were so dense. We found a small pipefish on the sand and cute nudis on the ladder of the bridge. We also spotted a rare ringed puffer (arothran Hispidus) with psychedelic rings of yellow around its pelvic fins.
A school of barracudas completed the picture and while it was hard to head back to the surface we could only be grateful of the wonders we had uncovered once more.
 
Our week of underwater marvels was a testament to the beauty of the Andaman Sea, where every dive revealed a new chapter in the rich tapestry of marine life. As we bid adieu to this captivating journey, we carry with us the memories of an adventure that continues to echo beneath the waves.
Until we meet again, let the ocean's allure guide us to new horizons and undiscovered treasures.
dive guide underwater
fun onboard
Happy New Year everyone!!!


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Camille Fogarolo 

Camille has been traveling the world since her mid twenties and dived many seas before finally settling down in Thailand in 2012. With her husband Franck, they opened The Smiling Seahorse liveaboard to offer cruises in the most unexplored area of South East Asia and became quite the experts when it comes to diving in Myanmar! Proud mother of two she still travels as much as she can and usually joins a dive trip to Mergui Archipelago every month.

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  • When & Where
    • Schedule and Prices
    • Destinations >
      • North Andaman Thailand >
        • Similan Islands
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          • Richelieu Rock
        • The essential Underwater photo Guide to diving Thailand
      • South Andaman Thailand >
        • Phuket & Koh Phi Phi National Parks
        • Koh Lanta National Park
        • Koh Lipe and Tarutao National Park
      • Mergui Archipelago >
        • Liveaboard diving holiday in Myanmar
        • Burma's best dive sites
        • The Ultimate Underwater photo Guide to diving Burma
  • ABOUT
    • Our Boat >
      • DELICIOUS FOOD
    • Diving in Thailand in 2024-2025
    • Diving in Myanmar/Burma in 2024-2025
    • Blackwater diving in Thailand and Myannmar
    • Marine life in Thailand's Andaman Sea
    • Marine life in Mergui Archipelago
    • Dive Courses >
      • Learn to Dive
      • Continue diving education
      • Rescue diver
      • Professional Dive Courses
      • Hone your dive skills with a specialty course
      • Photo coaching in Thailand on the Smiling Seahorse
    • Guest Book
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  • Plan your trip
    • Our hotels recommendations
    • Khao Sok National Park
    • Taxi services >
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      • Taxi services to Tap Lamu and Khao Lak
    • 10 things to do around Ranong
  • PROMO
    • HOT DEALS
    • Special Expeditions >
      • 8D Special Marine Bio with Piers Baillie - 10 Nov 2025
      • 8D Whale shark expedition - 20 March 2026 - North and South
  • gallery
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