​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier, our journey to the Burma Banks began with the usual immigration formalities in Thailand before heading to Kawthung, Burma. Once the official paperwork was complete, we set course for the remote and breathtaking Mergui Archipelago and the Burma Banks. With guests from Thailand, Burma, France, Denmark, Switzerland, the USA, Italy, Panama, and Belgium, we embarked on another unforgettable adventure aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, eager to uncover the wonders of this legendary dive destination.

The Burma Banks is an isolated offshore reef system consisting of vast submerged plateaus and seamounts that rise abruptly from the deep ocean floor. Unlike the nearshore reefs of the Mergui Archipelago, which are fringed with islands, the Burma Banks lie far out in the Andaman Sea, approximately 180 km west of the Burmese coast. The area is renowned for its thrilling drift dives, expansive sandy plateaus, and vibrant coral outcrops, making it one of the most exhilarating dive sites in the region.

During our first dive on this fantastic forest of Seafans, we discovered a massive ghost net tangled in the coral. Recognizing the threat it posed to marine life, our dedicated team of dive pros sprang into action. Over the next hour, they carefully detached the net from the reef, ensuring minimal impact on the fragile corals.

By removing this ghost net, we saved countless marine creatures from a senseless death. Ghost nets continue to trap and kill marine life—fish, crabs, morays, and even sharks—that will never be eaten or used, making them a tragic waste. Beyond their impact on marine life, discarded fishing gear is one of the largest sources of plastic pollution in our oceans and contributes to coral reef destruction. This effort was a small but important step in protecting this beautiful dive site and preserving the underwater ecosystem for future divers.

We were lucky to have onboard seven awesome friends - Julien, Camille, Sofi, Tom, Thanda, Tim and Rich - who are also skilled dive professionals, including Thanda Ko Gyi, the founder of Myanmar's first ocean conservation organization, Myanmar Ocean Project and Tim & Rich from Thai Ocean Academy. With their expertise and manpower, we were able to make a real impact, ensuring that this stunning dive site remains a haven for marine life.
A big thank you to you all!!!

Our third day took us to the Similan Islands, starting with two dives at Koh Tachai. The waters were clear, and the visibility was perfect as we swam alongside schools of bigeye trevallies, yellowback fusiliers, and pickhandle barracudas. ​

We finally could jump into our first blackwater dive that night, and what a treat! We spotted many interesting post-larval critters such as octopuses, lobsters, squid, and flying gurnards drift past our lights drifting past our lights.​

As the clock ticked toward 2025, we set sail on the MV Smiling Seahorse, departing from Ranong with an international crew of divers from Australia, the USA, France, and Spain. The journey began with a unique experience—crossing the Thai-Burmese border by sea. After clearing immigration at Kawthaung, we ventured into the enchanting Mergui Archipelago to kick off our New Year’s adventure.

Our first dive at High Rock set a remarkable tone for the week ahead. The reef teemed with life, showcasing vibrant cowfish, porcupine puffers, and schools of pickhandle barracuda gliding gracefully through the crystal-clear waters. Among the nooks and crannies, we encountered white-eye moray eels, pipefish, cuttlefish, and the notoriously elusive honeycomb moray. Scorpionfish expertly camouflaged themselves against the coral backdrop, keeping us constantly alert and engaged.

Dive two took us to Shark Cave at 3 Islets, where the diversity and abundance of marine life seemed to double. A delicate tiger tail seahorse swayed gently in the current, while peacock mantis shrimp scurried energetically across the sandy bottom. Schools of fusiliers, jacks, and snappers filled the water with vibrant bursts of color, and another stunning formation of pickhandle barracuda swirled around us in a mesmerizing ballet.

For our third dive at Submarine, or Square Rock, we were treated to thrilling highlights: a school of giant trevally and golden trevally shimmering like molten gold in the deep blue background. Nudibranch enthusiasts rejoiced at the sighting of exquisite purple and orange Flabellina and orange pipefish on the reef, while the large schools of yellow fusiliers, jacks, and snappers commanded attention above our heads. We were even fortunate to witness a "barracuda tornado," a breathtaking spectacle of swirling silver and shadows.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we returned to Shark Cave for a night dive, where the nocturnal marine life came alive. Decorator crabs adorned in shades of yellow and pink roamed the seabed, and small creatures like dancing Durban shrimp and cleaning shrimp illuminated the night with their lively antics. The ethereal presence of moray eels weaving through the shadows added an intriguing touch of mystery to the dive.
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Back on board, the night turned into a festive celebration. Ringing in New Year’s Eve in the remote Mergui Archipelago was nothing short of enchanting. With no other boats in sight, we welcomed 2025 beneath a canopy of stars, toasting to exceptional visibility, thrilling dives—and the exciting prospect of more encounters with nurse sharks to come!

At North Twin Pinnacle, we began our day with two dives that can only be described as breathtaking. A shy school of jackfish momentarily graced us with their presence, while yellowtail barracuda lounged atop the boulders, watching our every move. Among the vibrant coral gardens, we encountered mesmerizing tigertail seahorses, a pair of amorous octopuses engaged in a playful courtship display, and a distinctive seal-face pufferfish. The scene was further enhanced by the vivid presence of surgeonfish, batfish, and blue-and-yellow boxfish, creating a truly enchanting tableau.
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Our third and fourth dives at North Twin Reef Pinnacle unveiled a kaleidoscope of marine life. Blue-dash, blue-and-gold, and black-tipped fusiliers darted gracefully around pink basslets and longnose hawkfish nestled among the soft coral. We were also delighted by the vibrant sweetlips, butterflyfish, and angelfish, along with the surprising appearance of four giant blue-spotted pufferfish. A dogtooth tuna glided past us, serving as a reminder of the ocean's vast and mysterious depths.

The overnight journey took us to the Burma Banks, where Row Bank awaited. At an average depth of 25 meters, we were greeted by vibrant schools of bignose unicornfish and humpback unicornfish, as well as the majestic presence of nurse sharks—both resting under the bommies and curiously swimming among us. A massive school of jacks, seemingly engaged in a mating ritual, circled in pairs of dark and light individuals. Honeycomb moray eels peeked out from their hiding spots, while chromodoris nudibranchs delighted macro enthusiasts. The excitement was further heightened by the presence of giant sweetlips, white-tip reef sharks, and titan triggerfish.

During dives three and four at Rainbow Bank, we were accompanied by dolphins along the way, setting the stage for unforgettable underwater encounters. Nurse sharks and white-tip reef sharks patrolled the area, while jacks, trevally, and rainbow runners moved in synchronized harmony. On one dive, our group was treated to a stunning sunset that revealed bearded moray eels, giant blue-spotted pufferfish, scribbled filefish, and even more nurse sharks.
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Meanwhile, other divers opted for a blackwater dive, where the crystal-clear waters and gentle currents showcased a mesmerizing array of larval critters. Tiny flounders, shrimps, mantis shrimps, crabs, moray eels, jacks, goatfish, and sea butterflies floated gracefully in the current, creating a surreal underwater spectacle.

Returning to Row Bank for our first two dives, we were once again captivated by the mesmerizing sights of nurse sharks, honeycomb moray eels, and schools of striking black-and-white snappers. Longnose emperors and five-line snappers gracefully accompanied masked porcupinefish and giant pufferfish through the vibrant underwater landscape.

​During our third dive at Rainbow Bank, we had the exhilarating opportunity to encounter yellowfin tuna, formidable great barracuda, and even a baby grey reef shark. Our final dive at Silvertip Bank provided the ultimate thrill: an adult silvertip shark glided majestically by, accompanied by marble rays and inquisitive trevally, while baby grey reef sharks curiously approached the divers on their way to the safety stop.

The final day took us back to the Mergui Archipelago, beginning with two dives at SeaFan Forest. The pharaoh cuttlefish captivated our attention as they mated and laid eggs among the crevices. Tiger-tail seahorses, stonefish, and peacock mantis shrimp shared the stage with Chromodoris annulata nudibranchs, which were laying their eggs on the vibrant giant sea fans.
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At Western Rocky Cave, we were delighted by the sight of baby Hypselodoris nudibranchs, painted lobsters, and a school of pickhandle barracuda, offering a perfect conclusion to our underwater adventures. Our final dive at Eagle’s Nest was a spectacular display of color and life, featuring schools of jacks, juvenile bicolor parrotfish, and anemone crabs bidding us farewell in a mesmerizing underwater send-off.

Our trip concluded with a dive at the Volcano, also known as Shark Lagoon. Here, we glided through a kaleidoscope of soft corals in vibrant shades of yellow, purple, and pink, while bannerfish and flabellinas gracefully danced in the currents.

Spending the first days of the new year in the remote Burma Banks was an unparalleled experience. Being the only boat in this vast expanse of ocean felt surreal, as if the underwater world had been reserved just for us. The stunning visibility in the Banks, combined with abundant marine life and the thrill of diving with nurse sharks, made it a celebration we will never forget.

​Here’s to more adventures in 2025! The whole team wishing you all, readers, an amazing year!

The Andaman Sea is home to some of the most stunning underwater landscapes, and our journey into its heart took us to the renowned Similan and Surin National Parks. With their vibrant marine ecosystems and world-class dive sites, these destinations are a true diver's paradise.
Our guests this week was an energetic mix of adventurers from Germany, France, the UK, Australia, and Luxembourg. United by a shared passion for the ocean, we ventured into two Marine National Parks in the North Andaman, renowned for their vibrant marine life and spectacular underwater landscapes. 
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The Similan Islands, whose name fittingly means "nine" in Malay, form a cluster of breathtaking isles. Just to the north, Koh Bon and Koh Tachai serve as gateways to Surin National Park, adding even more wonder to the experience. Departing from Khao Lak, this voyage promised a tapestry of unforgettable sights above and below the surface.

We started our adventure with a check dive at Honeymoon Bay (Island Number 4). The coral garden and pristine sandy bottom were teeming with marine life: moray eels, lionfish, peacock groupers, and an octopus made appearances, while Camille spotted a stunning comet longfins. Divers also encountered sealface pufferfish, gobies, butterflyfish, and the graceful humpback unicornfish.

Our second dive took us to West of Eden (Island Number 7), where we marvelled at a vibrant coral garden bustling with life. Juvenile rockmover wrasse danced in the sand, and blue-spotted pufferfish peeked out from coral crevices. Angelfish, snappers, fusiliers, surgeonfish, and tilefish were abundant, making this dive truly delightful.

For our third dive, we explored the iconic Elephant Head Rock, renowned for its massive boulders and swim-throughs. Highlights included a giant trevally, a blue-and-yellow ribbon eel, and colorful nudibranchs adorning the rocks. Divers also spotted parrotfish, triggerfish, and a playful school of bluefin trevally hunting glassfish.
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The day concluded with a mesmerizing night dive at Turtle Rock, near Donald Duck Bay. Shrimps and crabs were out in abundance: banded boxer shrimp, marble shrimp, and Durban dancing shrimp stole the show. A giant moray eel stalking a snapper added an element of drama, while a tiger cowrie and an ornate spiny lobster rounded off our enchanting night.

We began the morning at Xmas Point, where one group was delighted to discover a pair of baby harlequin shrimps munching on a sea star while another group came across a white-tip shark swimming closeby and a curious octopus. Parrotfish and titan triggerfish also came for a quick glance as we explored this dynamic dive site.

Our second dive took us to Three Trees, where we encountered a playful hawksbill turtle and observed garden eels swaying gently in the sand. The highlights of this dive included potato groupers and Moorish idols, as well as blue-spotted rays gliding elegantly through the water.
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Next, we made our way to Koh Bon Bay, where we were greeted by a school of platax (batfish). The spectacle was enhanced by the presence of lionfish, lobsters, and peacock mantis shrimps, along with yellow fusiliers and bluefin trevally darting through the reef.
We concluded the day with a dive at Koh Bon, which featured Andaman sweetlips, tapestry shrimp, and squat shrimps. An octopus made a memorable appearance, and we were particularly thrilled to spot the vibrant halgerda tessellata nudibranch, which was truly a special treat.

Some divers began their day at Koh Bon West Ridge, where Maldivian sponge snails, schools of fusiliers, triggerfish, batfish, and anemonefish were abundant. While others explored the deeper Koh Bon Pinnacle, which was equally rich in marine life.

For the second dive, we ventured to Koh Bon North Ridge and North Reef, enjoying remarkable visibility and sunlight streaming through the water. Divers spotted banded sea snakes, barracudas, lionfish, and baby fimbriated moray eels. Shrimp, including Durban dancers and boxing shrimp, added charm to the reef.
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Dive three took us to Koh Tachai Pinnacle, where the light and visibility were breathtaking. Schools of fusiliers and snappers swarmed around the reef, while giant potato groupers and pufferfish lingered on the plateau. A school of batfish hovered near the walls, accompanied by octopuses and stunning sea fans.
The sunset dive at Koh Tachai Pinnacle featured no current and an abundance of marine life. Mackerel, giant trevally, dogtooth tuna, and schools of fusiliers swirled around the site. Potato groupers and a small yellow boxfish provided a perfect ending to the day.

The wind picked up as we made our way toward Surin National Park, prompting us to adjust our plans for safety. We began our adventure at Yellow Rock, located on the southern tip of South Surin Island. Although the visibility and current posed some challenges, our most determined divers were rewarded with sightings of a school of yellowtail barracuda, a massive school of yellow fusiliers, and a solitary humphead parrotfish.

Our second dive at Bungalow Rock, situated northwest of South Surin Island, offered calmer conditions and clearer waters. The underwater landscape was vibrant, featuring boulders teeming with life, including barracudas, sweetlips, shy potato groupers, and a giant moray eel that made this dive truly memorable.
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The final two dives of the day took us to the legendary Richelieu Rock. Although the visibility wasn’t perfect, the site delivered its usual enchantment. Schools of yellowtail barracuda, pickhandle barracuda, trevally, rainbow runners, fusiliers, and snappers painted a mesmerizing underwater scene. The sight of cuttlefish laying eggs added to the excitement, while as the sun began to set, the waters came alive with activity as predators started their hunt.
After the sunset dive, we celebrated with a barbecue in the bay of the Surin Islands—a well-deserved feast for our hardworking divers.

The trip concluded with two final dives at Richelieu Rock, which once again showcased its incredible biodiversity. Schools of barracuda mingled with fusiliers and snappers, while longnose emperors prowled near the rock. Boxfish, trumpetfish, and blue-spotted boxfish were just a few of the vibrant reef inhabitants we encountered. Porcelain crabs, peacock mantis shrimps, and Durban dancing shrimps delighted macro enthusiasts.
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With smiles on our faces and memories of breathtaking dives, we headed back toward Ranong, making a brief stop at Koh Payam to drop off some guests. This journey was truly unforgettable.

MV Smiling Seahorse welcomed aboard an incredible group of divers from Belgium, Singapore, France, Australia, Germany, and the USA. Departing from Khao Lak, we cruised northward towards the pristine waters of Surin National Park. Over the course of the next three adventurous days, we explored vibrant coral gardens, dramatic pinnacles, and the famous Richelieu Rock, encountering marine life in all shapes and sizes.

Our adventure began with a check dive at Ao Pakkard Bay, a stunning site featuring a vibrant coral garden and a soft, white sandy bottom. The calm waters set the stage for a perfect start, revealing a delightful array of marine life: a graceful eagle ray, curious garden eels, a passing blacktip reef shark, and even the iconic humphead parrotfish munching on coral. Amidst the reef, we were greeted by boxfish, triggerfish, anemonefish, and damselfish darting through the corals.
The second dive took us to Yellow Rock, also known as Rainbow Rock. With incredible visibility and minimal current, the dive was truly breathtaking. Schools of parrotfish, harlequin sweetlips, yellowtail barracuda, and big potato groupers surrounded us, while smaller critters like bentstick pipefish and porcupinefish made charming appearances. Adding to the vibrant scene were tigerfish, angelfish, boxfish, and pufferfish navigating the reef.
For our third dive, we explored Torinla Pinnacle, a boulder-strewn site with excellent visibility and little current. Among the rocks, we discovered catfish, Pikachu nudibranchs, and a curious barracuda hovering in the blue. The reef was alive with parrotfish, triggerfish, and a kaleidoscope of colorful wrasse.
We ended the day with a magical night dive back at Ao Pakkard Bay. Crustaceans took center stage, including squat shrimps, giant red reef crabs, marbled shrimps, and Durban dancing shrimps. Sleeping anemonefish on their purple pillow and parrotfish rested peacefully in their snort bubble, while the water sparkled with bioluminescence at every fin kick.

The day was dedicated to the legendary Richelieu Rock, one of the most biodiverse dive sites in the world. We completed three spectacular dives here, each offering amazing visibility and an explosion of marine life.
Rabbitfish and the usual mob of longnose emperors were seen hunting with big eye trevally on the reef while  pickhandle barracuda and rainbow runners filled the blue above. Close to the reef, we spotted a baby banded stick pipefish on the sandy bottom,  a yellow trumpetfish tried and failed to hide in a bushy coral, jens cleaner pipefish were hiding in every dark crevice. in the shallow a big school of batfish was playing in the sunrays, while schools of yellow and white snappers passed them by. Tiny critters like nudibranchs (including various chromodoris), porcelain crabs, and a tiny yellow cube boxfish delighted our macro enthusiasts and got the strobes flashing!
Our divers also encountered the elusive frogfish, white-spotted boxfish, and clouds of fusiliers darting around the reef. The soft corals here were thriving, home to anemonefish, damselfish, and a kaleidoscope of reef species.
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For the sunset dive, one group returned to Richelieu Rock, where the current brought in the big action: schools of longnose emperors, giant trevally, barracuda, rainbow runners, and fusiliers swarmed the pinnacle, creating an unforgettable spectacle before nightfall.
Meanwhile, other groups ventured out for a blackwater dive, a surreal night diving experience floating in the open ocean.
Highlights that night included larval filefish, baby day octopuses, Indian halibut, and moray eel larvae, alongside mesmerizing salps drifting in the darkness.

The final day began with a dive at Koh Tachai Plateau/Pinnacle, where we encountered a massive school of blackfin barracudas, giant trevally, and potato groupers swimming across the plateau. Among the reefs, we admired large sea fans, clusters of boxfish, triggerfish, and sizable lobsters scuttling in the crevices. Schools of fusiliers and snapper danced in the current, while tuna and Spanish mackerel zipped past in the blue waters.
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Next, we headed to Koh Bon Pinnacle, where an amazing school of batfish, white-tip reef sharks, and titan triggerfish took center stage. At West Ridge, the day continued with sightings of a banded sea snake, bluefin trevally, Maldivian sponge snails, and even blue baby lobsters hiding in the cracks. The playful peacock mantis shrimps were a crowd favorite, alongside a variety of snapper, wrasse, and parrotfish.

A heartfelt thank you to all our incredible guests for making this trip such a truly special experience. The smiles, laughter, and shared underwater adventures created unforgettable memories as we explored the breathtaking beauty of the North Andaman Sea. Each moment spent together was cherished, and we are grateful for the camaraderie and joy that you all brought aboard. We sincerely hope to welcome you back on the MV Smiling Seahorse for your next adventure! Your presence made this journey remarkable, and we look forward to creating more magical moments together in the future.