Some trips end quietly. Others feel like the ocean emptying one last treasure chest before the season closes.
Our final expedition of the 2025–2026 season carried us once again from Ranong into the wild islands of the Mergui Archipelago and out toward the remote Burma Banks. Calm seas, glowing sunsets and reefs overflowing with life accompanied us through a week where every dive seemed to reveal something different: hunting pelagics, curious macro life, frogfish, sharks, pipefish and endless nudibranch encounters hidden among the corals. It felt like the Andaman Sea had decided to offer one final encore before the monsoon silence returned.
Our final expedition of the 2025–2026 season carried us once again from Ranong into the wild islands of the Mergui Archipelago and out toward the remote Burma Banks. Calm seas, glowing sunsets and reefs overflowing with life accompanied us through a week where every dive seemed to reveal something different: hunting pelagics, curious macro life, frogfish, sharks, pipefish and endless nudibranch encounters hidden among the corals. It felt like the Andaman Sea had decided to offer one final encore before the monsoon silence returned.
Day 1 – From Ranong to the Mergui Archipelago
After clearing Thai immigration in Ranong and Burmese formalities in Kawthaung, we sailed north into the maze of islands forming the Mergui Archipelago. Jungle-covered silhouettes slowly replaced the mainland while guests settled into the rhythm of liveaboard life, preparing cameras and comparing fish books before the first dives of the trip.
Day 2 – South Twin, Boulder Rock & North Twin
Our first dive at South Twin Rock Head offered an easy and colourful introduction to the archipelago. Longnose emperors cruised over the reef together with schools of rainbow runners, yellowback fusiliers and neon fusiliers. Along the walls, macro life was already everywhere: spotted Hypselodoris, Chromodoris geometrica, Chromodoris annulata, creamy chromodoris, twin chromodoris, Indian Caloria and bicolour flabellina covered the reef while peacock mantis shrimps watched cautiously from their burrows. McCosker’s flasher wrasses darted above the rubble slopes while powder-blue surgeonfish and moon wrasse moved constantly through the current.
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At Boulder Rock, the scenery shifted into dramatic boulders and darker overhangs filled with life. A devil scorpionfish rested motionless between sponges while porcelain crabs and peacock-tail anemone shrimps decorated the cracks. Schools of fusiliers streamed above the reef while giant trevallies occasionally passed through the blue. Chromodoris geometrica and Indian Caloria continued the nudibranch parade across the rocks.
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North Twin Reef delivered both schooling fish and pelagic surprises. Batfish hovered calmly in formation while schools of fusiliers and surgeonfish drifted above the reef. An eagle ray appeared suddenly out of the blue together with African pompano cruising past the divers. Clown triggerfish, mullet fish and juvenile blackspotted sea cucumbers added life to the shallows, while ornate sapsucking slugs, blue dragons, spotted Hypselodoris and Chromodoris annulata covered the reef in colour.
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The night dive in North Twin Bay brought an entirely different atmosphere. Blunt decorator crabs, pygmy squid, squat lobsters, juvenile lobsters and several squids emerged after dark. Harlequin shrimps hid beneath rubble while octopus hunted across the sand beside batfish and filefish sleeping in the reef. A red abalone glowed under torchlight while flatworms and Jebb flatworms drifted slowly across the substrate.
Day 3 – Black Rock
We spent the full day diving Black Rock, and the site once again reminded us why it remains one of Burma’s most legendary offshore pinnacles. Schools of bigeye jacks and round batfish circled endlessly around the rock while great barracuda, African pompano and Spanish mackerel patrolled the blue water. Dogtooth tuna occasionally appeared in the distance while yellowback fusiliers and lunar fusiliers formed dense silver rivers around the reef.
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Closer to the rocks, the macro life was just as spectacular. Orange-spotted pipefish and network pipefish hovered carefully between soft corals while juvenile oriental sweetlips danced along the walls. Peacock mantis shrimps, peacock-tail anemone shrimps, marbled shrimps and tapestry shrimps carrying eggs filled the cracks. A yellow warty frogfish remained perfectly camouflaged among the sponges while white devil scorpionfish rested motionless nearby.
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The nudibranch diversity was extraordinary: Chromodoris geometrica, Chromodoris annulata, Chromodoris reticulata, Bornella anguilla, bicolour flabellina and Dendrodoris lumpy appeared throughout the dives. Juvenile yellow boxfish drifted shyly around the reef while tiger cowries covered the walls.
One unforgettable moment came when a large female octopus was seen digging a nest to prepare for egg laying, carefully moving sand and rubble while guarding her future nursery. Nearby, another pair of octopuses were observed mating among the rocks.
One unforgettable moment came when a large female octopus was seen digging a nest to prepare for egg laying, carefully moving sand and rubble while guarding her future nursery. Nearby, another pair of octopuses were observed mating among the rocks.
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As the sun dropped lower, Black Rock transformed once more. Boxer shrimps carrying eggs, straight-face swimming crabs and squat shrimps became increasingly active while schools of batfish and jacks continued circling the pinnacle into dusk.
Day 4 – Shark Cave, Square Rock & Submarine
At Shark Cave, tomato clownfish defended their anemones while anemone crabs and squat shrimps filled the reef crevices. A dead banded sea krait rested inside the cave entrance, creating an unusual and slightly eerie sight. Siboga cuthona, Hypselodoris, spotted Hypselodoris, Chromodoris annulata and Hypselodoris bollandi decorated the reef while blue dragons drifted delicately across the substrate. A large fimbriated moray eel peered from the shadows beneath schools of fusiliers and snapper.
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Square Rock revealed one of the highlights of the day: a rare white seahorse perfectly camouflaged among soft corals. Nearby, Glossodoris cincta guarded its eggs while boxer shrimps carrying eggs hid beneath ledges. Spotted Hypselodoris, Dendronotus sp.2 and a Persian carpet flatworm added even more colour to the reef. One curious reminder of the region’s past appeared underwater as unexploded dynamite still resting on the seafloor. Submarine was bursting with fish life. Schools of yellow snapper, fusiliers, white tongue jacks, golden jacks and trevallies filled the water column while cuttlefish were observed kissing and changing colours dramatically. Orange-spotted pipefish, rust-spotted crabs, red hairy crabs and anemone crabs hid among the coral formations while the reef pulsed with movement from every direction. In the afternoon, we stepped ashore for a visit to the small island temple near Shark Cave, climbing the familiar path through the jungle to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and panoramic views over the surrounding islands before returning on board for the night dive. |
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The night dive back at Shark Cave delivered another excellent macro session. Bornella anguilla and Siboga cuthona appeared again while hermit crabs, anemone hermit crabs and Baba’s crinoid squat lobsters covered the reef. Barracuda hunted in the torch beams while tiger cowries, Ramos murex, curly Chicoreus, rose branch murex and Tapesian horse conchs crawled slowly across the rocks. A fimbriated moray eel hunted openly while Mordilla brocki and Hypselodoris bollandi completed another spectacular night dive.
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Day 5 – Burma Banks & Blackwater
The crossing toward the Burma Banks brought calmer seas and wide-open blue water. At Rainbow Bank, nurse sharks rested beneath coral formations while schools of surgeonfish moved continuously across the reef. Roe Bank delivered more shark encounters together with turtles, schools of jacks and large groups of bignose unicornfish, sleek unicornfish and bluespine unicornfish cruising over the sandy plateaus. Honeycomb moray eels hid beneath the bommies while clown triggerfish patrolled the edges of the reef.
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During the sunset dive, red-spotted guard crabs carrying eggs hid inside coral heads while the last light filtered through massive schools of fusiliers and jacks.
That night, several divers entered the darkness for a blackwater dive. Moray eel larvae, larval anemones, mantis shrimp larvae, siphonophores, squid and driftfish drifted slowly beneath the boat, revealing the strange pelagic world that rises toward the surface after dark.
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Day 6 – Roe, Coral & Silvertip Bank
Roe Bank continued to produce nurse shark encounters before we moved toward Coral Bank for two dives filled with life. Hawksbill turtles cruised over the reef while honeycomb moray eels rested beneath coral overhangs. Halgerda tessalata and Maldivian sponge snails appeared repeatedly along the reef walls while schools of fusiliers, unicornfish and surgeonfish filled the water column.
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At Silvertip Bank during the sunset dive, grey reef sharks appeared cruising through the fading light together with more nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom. Honeycomb moray eels remained a constant presence while Maldivian sponge snails crawled slowly across the reef.
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Throughout the day, dolphins could occasionally be heard underwater while diving, their whistles and clicks echoing faintly through the blue water around the Banks.
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Day 7 – Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky
Sea Fan Forest offered calmer conditions but stunning scenery. Large sea fans and soft corals framed red reef lobsters, stonefish and schools of jacks moving through the reef. Rainbow runners, Spanish mackerel and barracuda hunted above the bommies while mating octopuses entertained divers among the rocks. Queen Isabel cowries, thick-edge cowries, juvenile yellow boxfish and bicolour flabellina added colour to the reef while squat shrimps hid inside the sea fans.
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At Western Rocky’s Eagle Rock, white tongue jacks and yellowfin barracuda hunted through clouds of jellyfish while rainbow runners swept repeatedly through the current.
The Cave night dive revealed another explosion of nocturnal life. Soft coral cowries, sieve cowries, rigid egg cowries and spindle cowries covered the walls while decorator crabs, elbow crabs, marbled shrimps and tapestry shrimps emerged after dark. Skeleton shrimps clung to hydroids beside Chromodoris reticulata and Mordilla brocki while giant moray eels hunted openly through the cave entrance.
The Cave night dive revealed another explosion of nocturnal life. Soft coral cowries, sieve cowries, rigid egg cowries and spindle cowries covered the walls while decorator crabs, elbow crabs, marbled shrimps and tapestry shrimps emerged after dark. Skeleton shrimps clung to hydroids beside Chromodoris reticulata and Mordilla brocki while giant moray eels hunted openly through the cave entrance.
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Back on board that evening, we also celebrated Franck’s birthday together, adding another warm and memorable moment to an already unforgettable expedition.
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Day 8 – Western Rocky & BBQ Night
We dedicated the full day to the iconic reefs of Western Rocky, exploring the different moods of the site from morning light to sunset. Around the Islets, schools of yellowback fusiliers, neon fusiliers and lunar fusiliers streamed over the reef while rainbow runners, giant trevallies and white tongue jacks patrolled the blue. Harlequin shrimps hid carefully beneath rubble, while bluestriped pipefish, cuttlefish, octopuses, blue dragons, Maldivian sponge snails and Chromodoris annulata kept photographers busy between clouds of anthias and surgeonfish. McCosker’s flasher wrasses darted above the reef as porcupinefish and titan triggerfish hovered near the rocks.
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Inside the famous Cave, the atmosphere shifted completely. Giant moray eels watched from dark crevices while anker whip coral shrimps, sponge crabs, skeleton shrimps, marbled shrimps and tapestry shrimps covered the walls and sea fans. Bornella anguilla, creamy chromodoris, Chromodoris geometrica, rigid dermatobranchus and Glossodoris cincta with eggs added layers of colour to the dive. Outside the cave entrance, juvenile oriental sweetlips and juvenile emperor angelfish sheltered among the boulders while schools of dogtooth tuna moved through the blue water beyond the reef.
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At Eagle Rock, the current brought even more action. Spanish mackerel and dogtooth tuna hunted above dense schools of fusiliers while barracudas cruised along the drop-off. Porcelain crabs, mantis shrimps, bicolour flabellina and Maldivian sponge snails covered the reef, and one unforgettable moment came as sergeant majors aggressively chased a moon wrasse away from their eggs.
The final sunset dive around the Cave and surrounding reef delivered a perfect closing atmosphere for the day. Slipper lobsters emerged from cracks while octopuses moved across the reef under fading light. Cadlinella ornatissima, soft coral cowries, spindle cowries, sieve cowries and Mordilla brocki appeared one after another as giant moray eels hunted through the darkness. Above us, schools of dogtooth tuna and Spanish mackerel continued their patrols as the last light disappeared over the Andaman Sea.
The final sunset dive around the Cave and surrounding reef delivered a perfect closing atmosphere for the day. Slipper lobsters emerged from cracks while octopuses moved across the reef under fading light. Cadlinella ornatissima, soft coral cowries, spindle cowries, sieve cowries and Mordilla brocki appeared one after another as giant moray eels hunted through the darkness. Above us, schools of dogtooth tuna and Spanish mackerel continued their patrols as the last light disappeared over the Andaman Sea.
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Back on board, the evening turned festive with our traditional BBQ night on the upper deck. Under a calm sky filled with stars, everyone gathered to share food, stories and favourite memories from the trip while music drifted across the boat. What started as a relaxed dinner slowly transformed into a lively party, with guests and crew dancing together late into the evening somewhere between the reefs of Western Rocky and the open waters of the Andaman Sea.
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Day 9 – Dendro’s Peak & Return to Ranong
Our final dive of the trip took place at Dendro’s Peak, a colourful reef alive with both schooling fish and macro treasures. Schools of fusiliers swirled around the pinnacle together with rainbow runners, giant trevallies and barracudas while cuttlefish hovered calmly above the reef. Hidden among the corals were tiger cowries, mole cowries and several beautiful bicolour flabellina, while surgeonfish, wrasses and butterflyfish covered the reef in constant movement.
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After surfacing for the last time, the Smiling Seahorse began the journey back toward Kawthaung and Ranong. Equipment was slowly rinsed and packed away while guests exchanged photos, favourite moments and stories from the week. From the reefs of the Mergui Archipelago to the shark-filled Burma Banks and the caves of Western Rocky, the trip once again reminded us how wild and diverse these waters remain.
Another season closed, another chapter written in the currents of the Andaman Sea… until the next departure.
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