Diving Myanmar: Trip Report from 12th to 20th November 2024

9 Days of Diving in Myanmar: Mergui Archipelago, Burma Banks and Blackwater Diving

If you’re dreaming of exploring pristine waters and remote dive sites teeming with marine life, there’s no better adventure than a Myanmar liveaboard cruise. Recently, we wrapped up an epic 9-day diving safari through the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks aboard The Smiling Seahorse, and what a journey it was!

This trip was filled with crystal-clear visibility, thrilling shark encounters, beautiful coral reefs and mesmerising blackwater dives that left us all in awe. From the first evening crossing into Myanmar to our final dives at Western Rocky, every day brought something different beneath the surface.

Clownfish sheltering in a blue anemone during a Myanmar dive — Clownfish in a blue anemone

Day 1: The Adventure Begins!

Our journey began with perfect weather as we checked out of Thailand and cruised towards Myanmar at the Ranong/Kawthaung border.

The sight of the sun setting over Myanmar’s golden temples was a magical start to our diving adventure. With the border crossing behind us and the Mergui Archipelago ahead, the atmosphere on board was full of anticipation for the days of exploration to come.

Diving in the Mergui Archipelago

Our first dive at High Rock was a feast for the eyes, with heavy traffic underwater caused by thousands of fusiliers and schools of chevron and pickhandle barracudas swirling above.

Shrimp enthusiasts were in for a treat, with Durban dancing shrimp, glass shrimp and boxing shrimp nestled in rocky crevices, while moray eels, mappa pufferfish and yellow boxfish added to the underwater spectacle.

Yellow boxfish photographed during a dive in Myanmar — Yellow boxfish

High Rock dive site in the southern Mergui Archipelago — High Rock

At Shark Cave and Square Rock, the hunt for seahorses was a success, with divers spotting beautiful tigertail seahorses peeking out from colourful sea fans. Lionfish and trevallies added drama to the dives, while bearded scorpionfish and copper-coloured cave sweepers added to the underwater spectacle.

Yellow tigertail seahorse photographed while diving in Myanmar — Yellow tigertail seahorse

Shark Cave in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar — Shark Cave, Mergui Archipelago

Day 2: Black Rock, a Secluded Diver’s Paradise

This secluded site, untouched since we left it six months ago, was alive with schools of bigeye trevallies, batfish and barracudas. Strong currents brought vibrant marine life closer, while calmer dives revealed nudibranchs, including the super-cute Pikachu nudibranch, scorpionfish and even a beautiful yellow frogfish.

Black Rock in the morning in the northern Mergui Archipelago — Black Rock in the morning

Divers exploring seastars at a dive site in the Mergui Archipelago — Diving with seastars in the Mergui Archipelago

Five-line snapper, also known as blue-banded seaperch or blue-striped snapper, in Myanmar — Five-line snapper

Diving with schools of fusiliers in the Mergui Archipelago — Diving with fusiliers in the Mergui Archipelago

Bigeye trevally during a dive in the Andaman Sea — Bigeye trevally

Black Rock in the evening in the northern Mergui Archipelago — Black Rock in the evening

Colourful soft coral at Black Rock in Myanmar — Pretty soft coral at Black Rock

Surgeonfish swimming above a purple coral reef in Myanmar — Surgeonfish and purple coral reef

Pikachu nudibranch photographed while diving in Myanmar — Pikachu nudibranch

Yellow frogfish photographed at Black Rock in Myanmar — Frogfish at Black Rock

Days 3 & 4: Burma Banks – Shark Encounters in Perfect Blue

The Burma Banks delivered on their reputation for big marine life. At Roe Bank, divers encountered nurse sharks by the dozen, porcupine rays, Napoleon wrasses and the rare bowmouth guitarfish.

Drift diving over these remote seamounts, 140 nautical miles from land, offered endless encounters with trevallies, fusiliers and coral gardens alive with marine activity.

Bowmouth guitarfish, Rhina ancylostoma, also known as a shark ray or mud skate, at the Burma Banks — Bowmouth guitarfish at the Burma Banks

Nurse shark encountered while diving at the Burma Banks — Nurse shark at the Burma Banks

Sunset over the open ocean during a Myanmar liveaboard diving trip — Sunset at sea with a 360-degree view over the open ocean

After a beautiful sunset with a 360-degree view over the open ocean…

The evenings were reserved for blackwater dives, where the open ocean revealed a galaxy of bioluminescent creatures, larval fish and jellyfish. It was a surreal experience that left everyone eager for more.

Colourful coral at the Burma Banks — Pretty coral at the Burma Banks

Marine life photographed during a dive at the Burma Banks — Marine life at the Burma Banks

School of fusiliers at the Burma Banks — Fusiliers at the Burma Banks

Alien-like larval mantis shrimp with a shimmering exoskeleton during a blackwater dive — An alien-like larval mantis shrimp with its shimmering exoskeleton

Coral larvae photographed during a blackwater dive — Coral larvae on a blackwater dive

Blackwater diving in Myanmar over the open ocean — Blackwater diving in Myanmar

Translucent sea creature with a visible orange internal structure during a blackwater dive — A translucent sea creature encountered during blackwater diving

It was sooooo goood… we spent a second day at the Burma Banks and it was just as Magical!!

Honeycomb moray photographed while diving at the Burma Banks — Honeycomb moray at the Burma Banks

Hard coral boulder photographed at the Burma Banks — Pretty hard coral boulder at the Burma Banks

Small fish photographed during a blackwater dive with The Smiling Seahorse — Fish on a blackwater dive with The Smiling Seahorse

Flounder photographed during a blackwater dive — Flounder on a blackwater dive

Crustaceans photographed during a blackwater dive — Blackwater crustaceans

Halfbeak photographed during blackwater diving at the Burma Banks — Halfbeak on a blackwater dive

Coral egg photographed during a blackwater dive — Blackwater coral egg

Unusual and mysterious creature photographed during a blackwater dive — Blackwater weird creatures

Halfbeak reflecting on the surface at the end of a blackwater dive — Halfbeak reflecting on the surface at the end of the blackwater dive

Artistic photograph of a halfbeak during a blackwater dive — Halfbeak – artistic blackwater photograph

Day 5: North Twin and Beyond

The next leg of the trip took us to North Twin Island and its pinnacle, where calm waters showcased sprawling coral gardens, peacock mantis shrimp and neon fusiliers.

At Sea Fan Forest, massive gorgonians provided a stunning backdrop for sightings of octopus, cuttlefish and banded sea snakes.

Octopus photographed in the Andaman Sea during a Myanmar dive — Octopus in the Andaman Sea

Banded sea krait photographed while diving in Myanmar — Banded sea krait in Myanmar

Divers enjoying a Myanmar liveaboard diving adventure

Scuba diver exploring a Myanmar dive site from a liveaboard — Scuba diver on a Myanmar liveaboard adventure

Thai crew members aboard The Smiling Seahorse liveaboard — The Thai crew on the liveaboard

The Grand Finale

Our final dives at Western Rocky brought us face-to-face with stonefish, nudibranchs and playful anemonefish. Exploring the caves and pinnacles was a perfect end to an unforgettable journey through Myanmar’s remote underwater landscapes.

Fairy basslet photographed at a Myanmar dive site — Fairy basslet in Myanmar

Colourful coral reef scene photographed during a Myanmar diving safari — A beautiful Myanmar reef scene

Flasher wrasse photographed during a Myanmar diving safari — Flasher wrasse in Myanmar

Group of divers making the shark sign during a group photo — A group of divers making the shark sign

A Celebration to Remember

Group of people socialising on a diving holiday while holding drinks — Sharing stories and drinks after an incredible diving adventure

On our last night, we gathered for The Smiling Seahorse’s famous BBQ party, feasting on ribs, chicken and roasted veggies while sharing stories of the incredible sights we had witnessed. As dolphins swam alongside the boat, we knew we had experienced something truly special.

Why Choose The Smiling Seahorse for Your Next Diving Tour?

Our Myanmar liveaboard cruises offer access to remote dive sites such as the Burma Banks and the Mergui Archipelago, with experienced guides and a crew dedicated to making every trip memorable.

At the time this original article was written, our current Myanmar diving season was fully booked, while availability remained on our Thailand itineraries and the following year’s Myanmar dive safaris.

Ready for your own adventure? Explore our Myanmar liveaboard diving options and discover the remote reefs, seamounts, marine life and extraordinary blackwater encounters of this remarkable part of the Andaman Sea.