Mergui Archipelago Myanmar Liveaboard – A March Expedition into the Andaman Sea

As the sun broke over the horizon, casting its golden glow across the tranquil waters of the Andaman Sea, we embarked on yet another thrilling adventure into the depths of the Mergui Archipelago in Myanmar. With anticipation bubbling within us like the bubbles escaping from our regulators, we set sail, eager to discover what lay beneath the azure surface.

This was our third expedition back to Myanmar since the border closed in 2019, and it remained an absolute privilege to rediscover the solitude of the Mergui Archipelago. With around 800 islands scattered across this remote corner of the Andaman Sea, the region offers an extraordinary sense of exploration and isolation that is increasingly difficult to find elsewhere.

Setting Sail for Adventure

Our journey began on 5 March, as we welcomed aboard a diverse group of passionate divers from France, Belgium, Brazil, the UAE, Sweden, Switzerland and Israel. With excitement building, we set our sights on the 800 magical islands of the Mergui Archipelago, wondering what encounters this remote expedition would bring.

Unveiling Underwater Marvels

Our first day immersed us in a world of wonder at High Rock, where the ocean immediately rewarded us with the sight of not one, but two seahorses during our check dive. Encounters like these are part of what makes diving in the Mergui Archipelago so special: even a relatively straightforward first dive can reveal something unexpected.

We then ventured towards Dragon Islands, navigating three enchanting swim-throughs before encountering an eagle ray. The highlight came at Tower Rock, where a huge 4-metre nurse shark was peacefully resting beneath the rocky overhangs. It was a spectacular sight and one that left us in awe of the scale and diversity of marine life found in these remote waters.

 

A Reminder That Safety Always Comes First

However, amidst all this awe-inspiring beauty, we were reminded of the importance of caution. One of our fellow divers suddenly showed symptoms of pulmonary oedema for no apparent reason.

We acted quickly to ensure his safety, returning to land after the third dive so that he could receive medical attention. Thankfully, his condition was not too serious, and he had fully recovered by the time we wrote this blog post.

Scuba diving accidents, although infrequent, are a sobering reminder of the importance of having the right people and procedures around you, particularly when diving in remote destinations. Recognising a potential diving injury and responding appropriately can make all the difference when medical assistance is not immediately available.

At The Smiling Seahorse, safety is an essential part of every expedition. Our crew’s training, experience, equipment and procedures are there for precisely these situations. Exploring remote parts of the Andaman Sea is an incredible privilege, but it also requires preparation and responsible decision-making.

To make sure our passengers did not miss another dive, the boat sailed through the night, travelling to Kawthoung and back so that we could be ready for the 7 am dive the following morning. A huge thank you goes to our dedicated crew, who drove the boat for an additional 14 hours that night, once again demonstrating their commitment to keeping the expedition running as planned.

Thrills and Wonders Beneath the Waves

The following days unfolded like chapters in a captivating saga, with each dive site revealing its own unique treasures. From the mysterious depths of Shark Cave to the vibrant coral gardens of Western Rocky, we were treated to an underwater spectacle unlike any other.

Seahorses, ghost pipefish and anemone-clad critters adorned the reefs, while the graceful movements of a manta and the stealthy presence of sharks added an exhilarating edge to our adventures. The Mergui Archipelago has a remarkable ability to combine encounters with tiny, cryptic creatures and large pelagic animals on the same expedition.

We were also reminded why Myanmar is such a fascinating destination for underwater photographers and marine-life enthusiasts. From tiny seahorses and ghost pipefish to moray eels and unusual reef inhabitants, there was always something hiding in the next crack, overhang or patch of coral.

We did our Blackwater dive on our way back from Black Rock, and that was also a blast! Blackwater diving offers a completely different experience from exploring a reef during the day, with the darkness opening a window onto an extraordinary world of drifting and migrating marine life.

Discovering Hidden Gems

Amidst the thrill of exploration, we also found moments of serenity among the natural beauty of the archipelago. One of the memorable shore excursions took us to a sea gypsy village, where we climbed to a temple for a breathtaking panorama over the surrounding islands.

Other stops gave us the chance to enjoy pristine beaches and turquoise waters. After days spent underwater, simply stepping ashore and swimming in such untouched surroundings was a reminder that the Mergui Archipelago offers much more than exceptional diving.

Farewell to Another Mergui Adventure

As our journey drew to a close, we reflected on the memories forged and friendships formed across the vast expanse of the Andaman Sea. From heart-shaped lagoons to colourful coral gardens, the Mergui Archipelago had once again woven its magic around us, leaving us already yearning for the next chapter of exploration.

Our dive trip to the Mergui Archipelago had been an extraordinary combination of marine life, remote landscapes, unexpected encounters and the simple pleasure of sharing an adventure with divers from around the world. The sense of isolation is a huge part of the appeal: with so many islands spread across this vast area, there is still a genuine feeling of discovery.

At the time of writing this original trip report, we had received a cancellation for the last cruise to Myanmar of the season, starting on 9 May. If you wanted to explore this remarkably untouched destination before the word got out, this was an opportunity worth taking.

Bon voyage and happy diving!

Remember, diving is not just about exploring the depths; it is also about having fun and making memories. So dive in with a sense of adventure and a sprinkle of humour, and you are sure to have a whale of a time!

Discover More

Want to explore more of this remote corner of the Andaman Sea? Discover our Mergui Archipelago diving, learn more about our Myanmar liveaboard diving holidays, or explore some of the region’s most fascinating dive sites, including Western Rocky and the other best dive sites in Myanmar.

For marine-life lovers, you can also dive deeper into our guides to tiger-tail seahorses and the remarkable moray eels of the Andaman Sea.