Departing from Ranong Badin Pier, our journey began with the usual Thai immigration process before setting course for Kawthung, Burma. Once the formalities were completed, we sailed northwest into the vast and remote Mergui Archipelago, a hidden gem of the Andaman Sea. With over 800 islands scattered across the region, Mergui is a paradise for divers, featuring towering limestone formations, soft coral gardens, and thriving marine biodiversity. This journey brought together an international group of adventurers from the UK, USA, Taiwan, Germany, Switzerland, France, and Thailand, all eager to explore this pristine underwater world.
Day 1: First Encounters – Check Dive at High Rock
A gentle check dive to start the trip, where we encountered schools of yellowtail barracuda and yellowback fusiliers gliding over the reef. Moray eels peeked out from rocky crevices, and macro lovers were delighted to spot nudibranchs. The highlight was the sighting of two juvenile tiger tail seahorses camouflaged among the sea fans.
Dive 2 at Ba Wei, aka Rainbow Rock
True to its name, Rainbow Rock boasted a colourful display of soft corals in yellow, blue, pink, white, and red. The reef was bustling with Durban dancing shrimps, baby yellow boxfish, and giant moray eels lurking in the shadows. Crabs, both juvenile and adult scorpionfish, and the striking Chromodoris annulata nudibranch added to the spectacle. Among the angelfish, a beautiful ring angelfish made a rare appearance.
Dive 3 at South Twin
This dive site delivered with a fantastic variety of marine life. Banded stick pipefish hovered near the bottom, while blue dragons and Chromodoris annulata nudibranchs decorated the reef. A school of dusky batfish moved in synchrony, and an impressive Maldivian sponge snail was spotted near a cluster of sea fans. The biggest excitement came when a grey reef shark cruised by, adding a touch of adrenaline to the dive.
Night Dive
Under the cover of darkness, the reef transformed. Cleaning partner shrimps tended to their clients, while a devil scorpionfish lay in wait. Decorated crabs in shades of yellow and pink scuttled across the seabed, alongside red coral crabs and the striking blue dragon nudibranch.
Day 2: Black Rock Spectacle – Black Rock, the Jewel of the North
Located in the far northern reaches of the Mergui Archipelago, Black Rock is one of Burma’s most exhilarating dive sites. Rising from the depths of the open sea, this isolated pinnacle attracts pelagic species, making it a hotspot for large schools of fish and occasional visits from oceanic giants.
The day’s dives at Black Rock did not disappoint. We swam alongside a massive school of bigeye jacks and yellowtail barracuda. Juvenile yellow spot fusiliers darted between the coral-covered slopes, while mantis shrimps and porcelain crabs found refuge in crevices. Nudibranch enthusiasts were thrilled with sightings of Chromodoris annulata and Chromodoris risbecia pulchella. The grand spectacle of the day came when an oceanic manta ray gracefully soared above us, followed closely by a giant white frogfish resting on a ledge. Other highlights included an octopus displaying its camouflage skills, a juvenile African pompano, and a lurking cobia.
Blackwater Dive
Venturing into the darkness, we encountered ghostly planktonic creatures – larvae of flounder, sea butterflies, shrimps, and free-swimming larvaceans, creating an ethereal underwater experience.
Day 3: Three Islets – A Macro Wonderland
Square Rock
This dive kicked off with tiger tail seahorses clinging to gorgonian sea fans, while orange spotted pipefish wove through the reef. Chromodoris nudibranchs added splashes of colour, and a marble ray rested on the sandy bottom. The rare Mordilla brocki nudibranch made an appearance, and to our delight, an eagle ray soared past.
Shark Cave
A site known for its vibrant marine life, Shark Cave was teeming with schools of juvenile pickhandle barracuda and a massive congregation of blue-and-gold fusiliers. Pharaoh cuttlefish engaged in mesmerising mating displays, shifting colours right before our eyes. A banded krait sea snake glided through the coral, while Chromodoris annulata nudibranchs lined the rock walls. Adding to the excitement, a pregnant giant pufferfish hovered near a coral outcrop.
Submarine Reef
Stonefish expertly blended into the reef, while trevallies and rainbow runners dashed across the blue. A giant titan triggerfish patrolled the area, and decorated sea urchins provided shelter for small reef critters. A massive school of yellow snappers blanketed the site, making for an unforgettable dive.
Shark Cave – Night Dive
This nocturnal dive revealed an array of decorated crabs, Durban dancing shrimps, and baby slipper lobsters. A basket star shrimp hid among the reef, and we even spotted a ghostly wahoo passing by in the distance.
Day 4 & 5: Sea Fan Forest & Western Rocky – Conservation Efforts
Sea Fan Forest
A breathtaking dive site characterised by towering sea fans, home to tigertail seahorses, stonefish, and harlequin shrimps. Our dive team dedicated two dives to removing a massive ghost net draped across the east face of the reef, successfully freeing the site of this hazard.
Western Rocky – The Cave
This legendary site, featuring a tunnel cutting through the island, offered sightings of moray eels, fusiliers, and lurking stonefish. A surprise encounter with a giant red frogfish at the safety stop made for a memorable end to the day.
Eagle Rock
Sunset diving here brought sightings of octopuses posing for cameras, baby lobsters, Maldivian sponge snails, and marble shrimps.
Day 6: Dendro’s Peak – The Grand Final
Our final dive took place at Dendro’s Peak, a vibrant seamount bustling with marine life. Schools of giant trevallies, rainbow runners, and wahoo created an action-packed scene. Yellowtail barracuda and bigeye trevallies swirled around us, while peacock mantis shrimps and white-eyed moray eels hid among the rocks. A fitting end to an incredible expedition!
As we made our way back to Kawthung, we celebrated with the traditional Burmese beer before returning to Ranong, reminiscing about the unforgettable encounters of the past week. Until next time, Burma!
Another unforgettable adventure with the MV Smiling Seahorse!
