Trip report: Celebrating 2025 in Mergui and Burma Banks!

As the clock ticked toward 2025, we set sail on the MV Smiling Seahorse, departing from Ranong with an international crew of divers from Australia, the USA, France, and Spain. The journey began with a unique experience—crossing the Thai-Burmese border by sea. After clearing immigration at Kawthaung, we ventured into the enchanting Mergui Archipelago to kick off our New Year’s adventure.

Our first dive at High Rock set a remarkable tone for the week ahead. The reef teemed with life, showcasing vibrant cowfish, porcupine puffers, and schools of pickhandle barracuda gliding gracefully through the crystal-clear waters. Among the nooks and crannies, we encountered white-eye moray eels, pipefish, cuttlefish, and the notoriously elusive honeycomb moray. Scorpionfish expertly camouflaged themselves against the coral backdrop, keeping us constantly alert and engaged.

Dive two took us to Shark Cave at 3 Islets, where the diversity and abundance of marine life seemed to double. A delicate tiger tail seahorse swayed gently in the current, while peacock mantis shrimp scurried energetically across the sandy bottom. Schools of fusiliers, jacks, and snappers filled the water with vibrant bursts of color, and another stunning formation of pickhandle barracuda swirled around us in a mesmerizing ballet.

For our third dive at Submarine, or Square Rock, we were treated to thrilling highlights: a school of giant trevally and golden trevally shimmering like molten gold in the deep blue background. Nudibranch enthusiasts rejoiced at the sighting of exquisite purple and orange Flabellina and orange pipefish on the reef, while the large schools of yellow fusiliers, jacks, and snappers commanded attention above our heads. We were even fortunate to witness a “barracuda tornado,” a breathtaking spectacle of swirling silver and shadows.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we returned to Shark Cave for a night dive, where the nocturnal marine life came alive. Decorator crabs adorned in shades of yellow and pink roamed the seabed, and small creatures like dancing Durban shrimp and cleaning shrimp illuminated the night with their lively antics. The ethereal presence of moray eels weaving through the shadows added an intriguing touch of mystery to the dive.
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Back on board, the night turned into a festive celebration. Ringing in New Year’s Eve in the remote Mergui Archipelago was nothing short of enchanting. With no other boats in sight, we welcomed 2025 beneath a canopy of stars, toasting to exceptional visibility, thrilling dives—and the exciting prospect of more encounters with nurse sharks to come!

At North Twin Pinnacle, we began our day with two dives that can only be described as breathtaking. A shy school of jackfish momentarily graced us with their presence, while yellowtail barracuda lounged atop the boulders, watching our every move. Among the vibrant coral gardens, we encountered mesmerizing tigertail seahorses, a pair of amorous octopuses engaged in a playful courtship display, and a distinctive seal-face pufferfish. The scene was further enhanced by the vivid presence of surgeonfish, batfish, and blue-and-yellow boxfish, creating a truly enchanting tableau.
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Our third and fourth dives at North Twin Reef Pinnacle unveiled a kaleidoscope of marine life. Blue-dash, blue-and-gold, and black-tipped fusiliers darted gracefully around pink basslets and longnose hawkfish nestled among the soft coral. We were also delighted by the vibrant sweetlips, butterflyfish, and angelfish, along with the surprising appearance of four giant blue-spotted pufferfish. A dogtooth tuna glided past us, serving as a reminder of the ocean’s vast and mysterious depths.

The overnight journey took us to the Burma Banks, where Row Bank awaited. At an average depth of 25 meters, we were greeted by vibrant schools of bignose unicornfish and humpback unicornfish, as well as the majestic presence of nurse sharks—both resting under the bommies and curiously swimming among us. A massive school of jacks, seemingly engaged in a mating ritual, circled in pairs of dark and light individuals. Honeycomb moray eels peeked out from their hiding spots, while chromodoris nudibranchs delighted macro enthusiasts. The excitement was further heightened by the presence of giant sweetlips, white-tip reef sharks, and titan triggerfish.

During dives three and four at Rainbow Bank, we were accompanied by dolphins along the way, setting the stage for unforgettable underwater encounters. Nurse sharks and white-tip reef sharks patrolled the area, while jacks, trevally, and rainbow runners moved in synchronized harmony. On one dive, our group was treated to a stunning sunset that revealed bearded moray eels, giant blue-spotted pufferfish, scribbled filefish, and even more nurse sharks.
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Meanwhile, other divers opted for a blackwater dive, where the crystal-clear waters and gentle currents showcased a mesmerizing array of larval critters. Tiny flounders, shrimps, mantis shrimps, crabs, moray eels, jacks, goatfish, and sea butterflies floated gracefully in the current, creating a surreal underwater spectacle.

Returning to Row Bank for our first two dives, we were once again captivated by the mesmerizing sights of nurse sharks, honeycomb moray eels, and schools of striking black-and-white snappers. Longnose emperors and five-line snappers gracefully accompanied masked porcupinefish and giant pufferfish through the vibrant underwater landscape.

​During our third dive at Rainbow Bank, we had the exhilarating opportunity to encounter yellowfin tuna, formidable great barracuda, and even a baby grey reef shark. Our final dive at Silvertip Bank provided the ultimate thrill: an adult silvertip shark glided majestically by, accompanied by marble rays and inquisitive trevally, while baby grey reef sharks curiously approached the divers on their way to the safety stop.

The final day took us back to the Mergui Archipelago, beginning with two dives at SeaFan Forest. The pharaoh cuttlefish captivated our attention as they mated and laid eggs among the crevices. Tiger-tail seahorses, stonefish, and peacock mantis shrimp shared the stage with Chromodoris annulata nudibranchs, which were laying their eggs on the vibrant giant sea fans.
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At Western Rocky Cave, we were delighted by the sight of baby Hypselodoris nudibranchs, painted lobsters, and a school of pickhandle barracuda, offering a perfect conclusion to our underwater adventures. Our final dive at Eagle’s Nest was a spectacular display of color and life, featuring schools of jacks, juvenile bicolor parrotfish, and anemone crabs bidding us farewell in a mesmerizing underwater send-off.

Our trip concluded with a dive at the Volcano, also known as Shark Lagoon. Here, we glided through a kaleidoscope of soft corals in vibrant shades of yellow, purple, and pink, while bannerfish and flabellinas gracefully danced in the currents.

Spending the first days of the new year in the remote Burma Banks was an unparalleled experience. Being the only boat in this vast expanse of ocean felt surreal, as if the underwater world had been reserved just for us. The stunning visibility in the Banks, combined with abundant marine life and the thrill of diving with nurse sharks, made it a celebration we will never forget.

​Here’s to more adventures in 2025! The whole team wishing you all, readers, an amazing year!