Myanmar Trip Report – April 2nd to 10th, 2025: Manta and giant frogfish in Mergui Archipelago!

Manta Ray Expedition: Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks

Scarlett Taylor, marine biologist and guest speaker on the Manta Ray Expedition — Scarlett Taylor

April greeted us with calm seas, radiant skies, and a boat brimming with international energy as divers from Belgium, France, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Italy stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Together, we set off on an unforgettable journey through the stunning Mergui Archipelago and the remote Burma Banks during our highly anticipated Manta Ray Expedition. Promising close encounters with ocean giants and elusive marine wonders, this trip didn’t just meet expectations—it exceeded them.

What made this expedition truly exceptional was the presence of Scarlett Taylor, a marine biologist from Canada with a Master’s degree in Biology from Dalhousie University. Scarlett brought a wealth of knowledge and infectious enthusiasm, sharing captivating insights into manta ray behaviour, shark ecology, and the importance of protecting critical marine habitats. Drawing from her experience with the Manta Trust and her current work with Global Reef in Thailand, she hosted daily talks that deepened our understanding and appreciation of the incredible creatures we encountered beneath the waves.

Once we cleared immigration in Kawthoung, we set a course northwest into Burmese waters, ready to explore the untamed heart of the Andaman Sea.

Day 1: Warming Up in the North

Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the adventure ahead. A delicate Tiger Tail Seahorse nestled gracefully among the corals stole the show, while a curious Cowfish drifted by like a miniature UFO. We cruised alongside a shimmering school of Pickhandle Barracudas, their silver scales catching the sunlight, as Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef edges with quiet authority. In the cracks and coral bommies, Butterflyfish flitted about while bold little Damselfish held their ground, helping us ease back into the rhythm of the deep.

Next, we headed to Ba Wei, where a striking black Ribbon Eel waved like a ribbon of ink from its burrow, and a pair of elegant Jann’s Pipefish twirled delicately among soft coral tendrils. At the cleaning stations, Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasses hovered with purpose, ready for business, while vibrant Angelfish and shimmering Anthias painted the reef in brilliant hues.

We capped off the day at South Twin, where a lively current brought in the big fish. Bluefin and Giant Trevallies swept past with power, joined by the lightning-fast Rainbow Runners. Yet even amid the rush, we paused to admire the more subtle beauty—Moorish Idols and Bannerfish swaying gracefully in the swell.

As night fell, we slipped beneath the surface once more for a mysterious dive in South Twin Bay. There, Parrotfish dozed inside their protective mucous cocoons, and stealthy Lionfish prowled through rocky crevices, adding a touch of nighttime drama to an already magical day.

Tiger Tail Seahorse among the corals in the Mergui Archipelago — Tiger Tail Seahorse

Schooling Bannerfish around a giant barrel sponge in the Andaman Sea — Schooling Bannerfish around a giant barrel sponge

Pair of Butterflyfish in the Andaman Sea

School of Pickhandle Barracudas in the Mergui Archipelago — Pickhandle Barracudas in the Mergui Archipelago

Day 2: Shark Cave Adventure

We dedicated a full day to exploring the wonders of the Shark Cave area, diving between Shark Cave, Square Rock, and Submarine. Each site delivered in spades. A shy Bamboo Shark peeked from beneath a rocky ledge, while Tiger Tail Seahorses clung delicately to sea fans swaying in the shallows. Five Marble Rays glided past in graceful formation, skimming over coral gardens teeming with life—Tomato Clownfish darting through anemones, curious Cuttlefish drifting by, and schools of Batfish swirling like a slow-motion ballet overhead.

The macro magic was just as mesmerising. Electric-hued Chromodoris nudibranchs lit up the reef, cryptic Decorator Crabs disguised themselves among the rubble, and alien-like Xeno Crabs gripped tightly to whip corals, looking like creatures from another planet. Meanwhile, Gold Spot Trevallies zipped through the shallows in gleaming flashes, as the reef bustled with a kaleidoscope of Wrasses, Groupers, and Triggerfish going about their vibrant, busy lives.

Bamboo Shark resting beneath a rocky ledge in the Burma Banks — Bamboo Shark in the Burma Banks

Cuttlefish during a dive in Myanmar — Cuttlefish in Myanmar

Marble Ray gliding over the reef in Myanmar — Marble Ray in Myanmar

Batfish swimming above the reef in Burmese waters — Diving with Batfish in Burma

Day 3: Black Rock Brilliance

Black Rock never fails to impress—and today, it truly outdid itself. Across four exhilarating dives, we were treated to four manta ray sightings, including two unforgettable close encounters with majestic oceanic mantas. One glided directly overhead, lingering in the dappled sunlight as our bubbles rose to meet it—an awe-inspiring moment that left the entire group breathless with wonder.

Below and around us, schools of Bigeye Trevallies moved like rolling silver waves, creating a mesmerising backdrop to the manta magic. In the reef’s quieter corners, diligent Harlequin Shrimps nibbled away at sea stars, their intricate patterns standing out against the rocky crevices. A ghostly White Devil Scorpionfish, nearly indistinguishable from the stone it rested on, reminded us just how much goes unnoticed until you truly look.

The entire reef pulsed with energy—Snappers darted in tight formation, Surgeonfish weaved through the chaos, and Sweetlips hovered with their signature pout. Black Rock delivered a sensory feast, once again proving why it is one of the remarkable dive sites of the Andaman Sea.

Oceanic Manta Ray encountered at Black Rock in Myanmar — Oceanic Manta Ray at Black Rock

Harlequin Shrimp on the reef at Black Rock, Burma — Harlequin Shrimp at Black Rock

Giant Manta Ray in Burmese waters — Giant Manta Ray in Burma

Juvenile Blue Surgeonfish in Burmese waters — Juvenile Blue Surgeonfish in Burma

Day 4: North Twin & Into the Deep

At North Twin Pinnacle, the blue came alive with motion and grace. Four Eagle Rays soared past like underwater kites, effortlessly gliding through the open water. All around us, Fusiliers streamed in dazzling bursts of blue and yellow, like living confetti swirling on the current. Below, the reef buzzed with life—Snappers and regal Emperor Angelfish filled the coral-scape, occasionally parting to make way for larger visitors, including a sleek Tuna cruising by in the distance during our third dive at North Twin Reef.

Eagle Ray encounter at North Twin in Myanmar — Eagle Ray encounter at North Twin

Close-up portrait of an Eagle Ray in Burmese waters — Eagle Ray portrait in Myanmar

Emperor Angelfish in Burmese waters — Angelfish in Burmese waters

That night, we descended into the inky darkness for a blackwater dive—an ethereal and otherworldly adventure. Suspended in the abyss, we drifted alongside glowing, translucent larval creatures, some so strange and delicate they seemed imagined. Many of these deep-sea drifters may never be seen again in their adult forms, making each encounter feel like a fleeting secret of the ocean. It was a surreal and spellbinding end to a truly magical day.

Shrimp encountered during a blackwater dive in Burmese waters — Shrimp during a blackwater dive

Squid encountered during a blackwater dive in the Andaman Sea — Squid during a blackwater dive

Day 5 & 6: Reaching the Remote Waters of the Burma Banks

The Burma Banks unfolded before us like a dreamscape of the deep—vast, remote, and teeming with life. Over eight thrilling dives, we shared encounters that will be etched in memory for years to come. In the golden afternoon light, three Bull Sharks patrolled a ridge with quiet dominance, while a passing Tiger Shark sent a ripple of adrenaline through the group, hearts pounding in unison.

Beneath coral overhangs, Nurse Sharks lay in calm repose, while a juvenile Grey Reef Shark darted with youthful agility through a swirling school of Trevally. A graceful Turtle glided by, utterly unbothered by our presence, as if we were just another current in its path. Meanwhile, enormous Marble Rays stirred the sandy bottom with their powerful wings, sending Gobies and Sand Perch scattering like leaves in the wind.

The Burma Banks delivered wild beauty in every direction—a raw and humbling reminder of the ocean’s power, mystery, and grace.

Nurse Shark resting beneath a coral overhang at the Burma Banks — Nurse Shark at the Burma Banks

Ancient coral formation at the Burma Banks — Coral formations at the Burma Banks

Marble Ray gliding over the sandy bottom at the Burma Banks — Marble Ray at the Burma Banks

Large coral formations rising from the seafloor at the Burma Banks — Giant coral formations at the Burma Banks

Day 7 & 8: Western Rocky Farewell

As we made our way back toward the Western Rocky area, Sea Fan Forest welcomed us with one last breathtaking surprise—a graceful Hammerhead Shark gliding past in a silent, unforgettable flyby (unfortunately not captured by any camera!).

Tucked among the swaying sea fans, another perfectly camouflaged Tiger Tail Seahorse revealed itself, while Stonefish lurked in plain sight, waiting to be discovered. In the shallows, Cuttlefish shimmered with vibrant colour displays, their bodies flashing like living neon signs. Our macro luck held steady with one final encounter—a charming pair of Harlequin Shrimps, closing the loop on a week of small, spectacular finds.

At The Cave and Eagle Rock, the weird and wonderful made their curtain call. A hulking Giant Frogfish rested motionless in the open, its shape barely distinguishable from the coral around it. A cleverly hidden Elbow Crab and a regal Slipper Lobster reminded us once more that in the underwater world, magic hides in the details—and the surprises truly never stop.

Stonefish resting among sea fans in the Mergui Archipelago — Stonefish at Sea Fan Forest

Table coral in the Mergui Archipelago — Table Coral in the Mergui Archipelago

Porcelain Crab in Burmese waters — Porcelain Crab in Burma

Pristine coral reef in the Mergui Archipelago — Pristine coral reef in Myanmar

Thanks to Gregor Koschicek for this stunning video of the trip!

As we sailed back toward Thailand, the sun dipped below the horizon, closing the chapter on a week filled with manta ballets, thrilling shark encounters, and kaleidoscopic coral gardens. With Scarlett’s expert insights adding depth to every dive, and a spirited crew of divers from around the world sharing the experience, this Manta Ray Expedition became more than a trip—it became a story we’ll be telling for years.

Already dreaming of the next one? So are we…