Myanmar Expedition: 8 Days of Diving in the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks
Embarking on an expedition with a diverse group of adventurers hailing from France, the USA, Italy, Germany, the Netherlands, Canada, Luxembourg, and Japan, we set our course westward towards the remote waters of Myanmar. Our journey unveiled a mesmerising world beneath the surface, teeming with vibrant life, dramatic underwater landscapes, and unexpected discoveries.
Day 1: Exploring High Rock and Dinosaur Island
Our first day in this aquatic wonderland commenced at High Rock, where the ocean seemed to burst with activity. The scene was a kaleidoscope of marine life – rainbow runners, snappers, fusiliers, surgeonfish, and trevallies pirouetted around the rock, painting the waters with their vivid colours.
Next, our boat led us to Dinosaur Island, aptly named for its resemblance to a diplodocus taking a majestic sip from the sea. This miniature island, pierced three times from east to west, offered thrilling swim-throughs that beckoned us to explore their mysteries.
Within these passages, shadowed by the island’s contours, schools of sweetlips sought refuge, while a path towards the surface revealed an ethereal spectacle. The gleaming light illuminated countless fish, their shimmering bodies forming mesmerising shoals. Although our hopes for encounters with sharks or rays were not fulfilled that week, a magnificent congregation of bigeye trevallies delighted us at the end of the journey.
Venturing deeper, our third dive brought us to The Tower and Bawai. Bawai, a charming coral garden adorned with soft pastel hues, revealed a hidden gem discovered a decade ago – a cavernous sanctuary that hosted a captivating eagle ray. It was heartwarming to find this majestic creature still calling the place home.
Unveiling nature’s mysteries, did you know that eagle rays could thrive within caves? The belief that they solely inhabited open pelagic waters was swiftly dispelled.
Amidst the vivid coral tapestry, another delightful encounter awaited us: a charming octopus, although its species eluded our immediate identification.
As night descended, our immersion continued at Spanish Dancer, a site aptly named for the enchanting creature it often unveils. True to its reputation, the night dive revealed the graceful movements of a Spanish dancer, adding a touch of magic to our underwater odyssey.
Day 2: Unveiling the Wonders of Shark Cave and Square Rock
On the second day of our Myanmar adventure, we set our sights on the fabled Shark Cave area, a domain whispered about for its mysterious allure.
We first explored the main dive site, Shark Cave, which began through a gloomy channel. At the end, we had the choice between passing through a brief cave and swim-through or continuing through a large corridor to the other side of the island. We chose the cave, and emerging from it was a breathtaking spectacle: a thick cloud of glassfish shimmering in the radiant light.
The coral garden beyond held myriad treasures awaiting our discovery – two enchanting baby tigertail seahorses and a vibrant array of colourful nudibranchs.
Our exploration continued at Square Rock for the second dive, revealing yet more secrets of the deep. A small octopus peeked out of its hole to greet us, while our eyes fell upon another tiny seahorse hanging by its tail from a coral branch. A blotched stingray nestled beneath a rocky alcove, accompanied by the elusive presence of a ghost pipefish.
The water was a little cold due to a thermocline (our video explaining the Indian Ocean Dipole), so we stayed closer to the surface, where a school of Moorish idols competed for our attention with a school of giant trevallies playing in the rays of light. It was beautiful.
The third dive led us to Submarine, a realm teeming with life and excitement. Here, we were greeted by the magnificent presence of two colossal blotched stingrays, surrounded by an orchestra of bustling marine life. The underwater symphony of colours and movement was a testament to the sheer abundance thriving in this underwater haven.
Between dives three and four, we had some time to visit a local village inhabited by the last Mokens living a simple life.
As evening draped the underwater landscape in an inky embrace, we embarked on a night dive back at Shark Cave. Amidst the nocturnal ballet, two majestic Spanish dancers gracefully adorned the reef, their elegant movements mesmerising us.
Our nocturnal explorations revealed further treasures – three miniature seahorses and the elusive presence of two ghost pipefish. Even amidst the darkness, the sea unveiled its magic: anemone crabs, feather star crabs, candy crabs, and the mesmerising giant basket star, unfolding its intricate arms to seize passing plankton. Various species of sea urchins, including flower urchins, imperial lance urchins, and globe urchins, together with flatworms, painted a vibrant tapestry against the backdrop of the night.
Day 3: Exploring the Wonders of Black Rock
Our exploration on the third day centred around the enigmatic Black Rock, a solitary outpost rising majestically from the heart of the ocean. As we descended into its depths, an explosion of life greeted us, painting a vibrant tapestry of colours and movement.
A bustling metropolis of marine species surrounded us – from graceful rainbow runners to majestic giant trevallies, accompanied by jacks, red and silver snappers, and dazzling yellowback fusiliers.
The ocean stage transformed into a theatre of spectacle as a massive school of barracudas coalesced into a swirling tornado, enveloping us in their mesmerising dance. Amidst this aquatic symphony, bannerfish, tunas, and sizable cobias heralded the arrival of something grander.
Our attention pivoted as massive marble rays, exhibiting inquisitive behaviour, captivated our focus. Their elegant movements followed us, their inquisitive nature making for an intimate connection as they shadowed our journey.
However, the pinnacle of excitement arrived when a formidable presence emerged from the midst of the barracuda school – a formidable shark, shrouded in mystery. Its sheer size and bulk, surpassing that of a typical reef shark, left us in awe. Although its specific identity eluded us – whether a silvertip or bull shark – its commanding presence was undeniable.
Driven by curiosity and the allure of deeper waters surrounding the rock, some of our group ventured further, unveiling a secret at these greater depths. A surreal scene unfolded – a carpet of shovelnose rays, gracefully gliding through the colder-than-usual waters, adding yet another dimension to the mysteries of Black Rock.
Day 4: Encountering the Abundance of North Twin
Our fourth day took us to North Twin, where the first two dives at the pinnacles revealed a lively underwater scene despite a mild current. Highlights included spotting a magnificent marble ray and two cobias gracefully cruising together at 25 metres.
However, the pinnacle’s star was an adorable octopus, cleverly swaying in the surge like the soft coral surrounding its burrow, leaving us pondering its motives – was it hiding from its predator or its prey?
Transitioning to a serene reef dive, we enjoyed the tranquillity amidst colourful fish and the grand passage of huge tunas above.
The real thrill awaited during our fourth dive – a mesmerising blackwater experience around the Burma Banks. It was a world of wonder, with larval fish, squids, comb jellies, flying gurnards, halfbeaks, and hitchhiking remoras.
The allure was so intense that most of us eagerly requested a second dive around the Burma Banks, marking our first blackwater adventure in this area and our deepest dive yet!
Day 5: Sharks Thriving in the Blue Waters of the Burma Banks
The day kicked off with exhilarating dives as our guests were thrilled to spot a dozen nurse sharks, silvertip sharks, and the elusive tiger shark alongside the enigmatic porcupine ray. The underwater spectacle was nothing short of sensational.
Later, a change of banks led to more shark encounters, this time with blacktip oceanic sharks, silvertips, and the return of nurse sharks.
Amidst this sharky excitement, the vibrant reef showcased a kaleidoscope of colours – playful octopuses, regal angelfish, sizable pufferfish, yellow angelfish, emperors, trevallies, and the majestic presence of groupers.
The day’s excitement was so infectious that a unanimous decision was made aboard to extend our stay at the banks. Everyone’s enthusiasm for more shark-centric dives led to an agreement to explore further the next day!
Day 6: Diving into Tiger Kingdom
Our sixth day saw us waking up again at the Burma Banks, starting with two exciting morning dives at Tiger Kingdom.
Once again, the banks welcomed us with a diverse congregation of sharks – nurse sharks, silvertips, grey reef sharks, and the majestic presence of tiger sharks. Their elegant movements amidst the surrounding marine ballet added a thrilling dimension to our underwater exploration.
The aquatic landscape teemed with life, showcasing not only the mesmerising sharks but also schools of trevallies, neon fusiliers, and the graceful dance of bannerfish. Parrotfish added splashes of colour to the scene while the powerful presence of big tunas patrolled the waters. Wahoos and giant trevallies joined the mesmerising ensemble, while on the bank’s periphery, big marble rays gracefully glided through the depths, adding to the spectacle of this underwater kingdom.
Day 7: Exploring Seafan Forest and Western Rocky
Venturing into Seafan Forest, our day began with the sight of a sizable school of barracudas, accompanied by the hidden presence of stonefish and leopard moray eels, adding an air of mystery to the topography.
Transitioning to Western Rocky, we were immersed in a vibrant underwater tapestry. The scene was bustling with life – from the majestic presence of massive blotched stingrays and Jenkins rays to a bustling school of jacks and emperor fish.
Angelfish and butterflyfish painted the scene with their vibrant hues against a backdrop of stunningly bright soft corals, creating a picturesque dive.
Day 8: Grand Finale at Secret Pinnacles and Volcano
Our eighth day commenced at a secret pinnacle site, unveiling a mesmerising display of rays and lively marine activity. Chevron and yellowtail barracudas vied for attention amidst bustling schools of surgeonfish, redtooth triggerfish, emperors, and trevallies, creating an underwater symphony of colours and movement.
Our last dive centred around the enigmatic Volcano. Here, the underwater world revealed its secrets – two elusive comet longfins peeking from their dark abodes, a tigertail seahorse cleverly concealed in plain sight, and an unexpected spectacle as a cat eel met its fate in the jaws of a grouper, unfolding before our eyes.
With beautiful visibility enhancing our final dive, we concluded our underwater odyssey with a serene cruise back to Kawthoung, weaving through the captivating karstic islands reminiscent of scenes from James Bond films.
Gratitude and Fond Farewells
A heartfelt thank you to all our guests for joining us on yet another incredible adventure! However, special appreciation goes to three extraordinary individuals – Steffi, Laura, and Peter. Your infectious enthusiasm, starlit conversations, and shared moments made this adventure truly remarkable. Until we meet again for more mesmerising dives and cherished memories!
