Trip report : Back to Burma from 28th of October to 3rd of November 2023

Trip report : Back to Burma from 28th of October to 3rd of November 2023

Diving Burma november 2023 trip report

Back in Myanmar: The Smiling Seahorse Returns to the Mergui Archipelago

The Smiling Seahorse returning to Myanmar for a Mergui Archipelago diving expedition
Back in Myanmar at last!

Our second trip of the season saw us finally return to Myanmar! After more than three years away, we were absolutely thrilled to be diving again in the mystical waters of the Mergui Archipelago.

A diverse group of enthusiastic guests joined us for this special expedition, travelling from Singapore, Malaysia, Switzerland, Germany, India, and Myanmar. Among them were two local diving enthusiasts from Myanmar, making this reunion with the Mergui waters even more meaningful.

Our cruise started in the early afternoon in Ranong. After crossing the Kraburi River, we met with the Myanmar officials in Kawthoung, who were nearly as excited as we were to see a boat heading back across the border after such a long break.

The Smiling Seahorse has been diving the Mergui Archipelago since 2012. Although we now offer cruises throughout Thai waters as well, this adventurous destination has always remained our flagship. Returning after such a long absence was therefore a particularly special moment for the whole team.

With all the paperwork in order, we were soon free to cruise towards a wonderful sunset and, finally, the beginning of another Myanmar adventure.

The voyage commenced at South Twin

Our first day of diving began around South Twin. Blessed with exceptional visibility, the ocean offered a spectacular display of thriving marine life.

The group was quickly rewarded with a wonderful selection of encounters. A majestic turtle, an elusive octopus, a vibrant mantis shrimp and an array of reef fish were among the first treasures we discovered. The healthy reefs and clear water set an exhilarating tone for the expedition.

Schooling bannerfish on a reef in the Mergui Archipelago
Schooling bannerfish on our first dives in Myanmar

Venturing north to Kyun Phi Lar and Shark Cave

Our northbound journey led us to Kyun Phi Lar, where the allure of Shark Cave beckoned.

The healthy reef teemed with life. Marbled rays, barracuda, an exquisite seahorse (was it smiling to see us?), a myriad of colourful nudibranchs and the mesmerising Spanish dancer were just a few of the underwater treasures that graced our explorations.

Barracuda encountered while diving in the Mergui Archipelago
Barracuda patrolling the reef

Exploration at Black Rock

We spent the following day at the infamous Black Rock, which captivated us beyond measure.

The site lived up to its prestigious reputation, hosting an astounding spectacle of marine life. Schools of jackfish, impressive dogtooth tuna, the enigmatic spearer mantis shrimp and resplendent sea anemones, engulfing one side of the rock, left us spellbound.

School of trevally in the Mergui Archipelago
An endless school of trevally

Southbound to North Twin and our first Myanmar Blackwater dive

Our journey southward led us back to the Twin Islands, but this time we dived around majestic North Twin and its awe-inspiring pinnacle.

The sheer abundance of aquatic life surrounding this challenging pinnacle was a sight to behold. Schools of big-eye jacks, barracudas, rainbow runners, surgeonfish and tunas orchestrated an underwater ballet.

Delving deeper into the reef revealed a microcosm of macro creatures — cowries, shrimps and nudibranchs — adding an extra layer of wonder to our diving experience.

For the night dive, we threw our bright pumpkin into the water and got ready for the first-ever Myanmar Blackwater dive!

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