Christmas in the Mergui Archipelago: A Week of Incredible Diving in Myanmar
As Christmas drew near, we embarked on another unforgettable journey aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, this time venturing into the mesmerising Burmese waters of the Mergui Archipelago. Guests from Germany, the UK, Australia, the USA, Hong Kong, India, Switzerland, Belgium, and The Netherlands joined us, bringing an international flair to this festive trip. It was a pleasure welcoming back some old friends and making new ones this week!
After leaving Ranong, we crossed the border into Burma, completing the necessary formalities in Kawthaung before heading into the Mergui Archipelago. This cluster of more than 800 islands is a pristine diving paradise, offering an untouched underwater world teeming with marine life and dramatic seascapes.
Day 1: A Colourful Start to Our Adventure
We began the trip with a gentle check dive at High Rock. The underwater world welcomed us with cowfish, porcupine pufferfish, yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda swimming gracefully around us. Hidden among the sandy seabed, we spotted white-eyed moray eels and a perfectly camouflaged crocodilefish, while pipefish and cuttlefish added their elegance to the scene.
Our second dive at Dragon Island lived up to its name with vibrant marine life. We marvelled at a banded sea snake gliding by, colourful Chromodoris nudibranchs adorning the reef, and a dramatic moment as a cuttlefish laid eggs while its partner stood guard nearby. Schools of fusiliers, snappers, Moorish idols, and sergeant fish moved in unison, creating a captivating underwater ballet. Groupers and a curious snowflake moray eel completed the spectacle.
The third dive at Ba Wey, also known as Rainbow Rock, greeted us with a kaleidoscope of colours. Soft corals in shades of yellow, blue, pink, white, and red surrounded us. We spotted baby yellow boxfish, blue-spotted stingrays, and giant moray eels. Tiny critters such as Durban dancing shrimps and Chromodoris nudibranchs added a touch of magic, while cuttlefish continued their egg-laying ritual.
As night fell, we returned to Ba Wey for a mesmerising night dive. The darkness brought out fascinating marine life, including giant moray eels, fimbriated moray eels, lobsters, and crabs. The reef was alive with small nocturnal creatures, such as spiny lobsters, soldierfish, soldier crabs, and squat shrimp gliding in the moonlit water.
Day 2: Exploring the Three Islets, AKA Shark Cave
The day began at Square Rock, where challenging visibility didn’t dampen the excitement. We were rewarded with sightings of a tiger tail seahorse, a swirling tornado of pickhandle barracudas, and banded baby pipefish. Schools of yellowfin jackfish, various colourful nudibranchs, and a blue-spotted stingray completed this thrilling dive.
Our second dive took us to Submarine, where schools of snappers, fusiliers, and jacks swirled around us. We discovered a bamboo shark resting in a crack, boxfish exploring the reef, and the elegant egg cowrie moving gracefully among the corals.
The day’s final dive at Shark Cave delivered on its name with a barracuda tornado and an array of moray eels, including honeycomb and fimbriated varieties. We also encountered marble rays and blue-spotted stingrays sharing the same bed under a rock, while cowfish, tomato anemonefish, and cleaning partner shrimp completed the vibrant reef life.
We ended the day with an unforgettable Christmas BBQ night on board, surrounded by laughter and the festive spirit of our amazing guests. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of orange and pink, the aroma of sizzling delicacies filled the air.
Our international group of divers shared stories of their underwater adventures, raising glasses to the magic of the season and the camaraderie that had blossomed on this journey. With music, delicious food, and a starlit sky above, it was a night to remember — a perfect way to celebrate Christmas together in the heart of the Andaman Sea!
Day 3: Stunning Sea Fans and Dramatic Caves
Sea Fan Forest Pinnacle was our destination for the first two dives of the day. The site’s giant sea fans were home to treasures such as tiger tail seahorses and mating cuttlefish. Simon’s group was lucky enough to witness a fleeting visit from a small manta ray, while schools of yellow snappers and fusiliers, along with devil scorpionfish, made these dives truly memorable.
In the afternoon, we headed to Western Rocky for a dive at Eagle’s Nest. The highlight was a rare sight of two male cuttlefish battling for a mate, releasing clouds of ink during their duel. Nearby, a Maldivian sponge snail slowly made its way across the rocks, while batfish and a poison claw sea urchin added to the underwater drama.
The day ended with a dive through Western Rocky’s spectacular cave. We entered through an archway and swam through a tunnel beneath the island, emerging to a barracuda tornado and a massive school of jacks. Inside the cave, we spotted an elbow crab and marvelled at colourful soft corals lining the walls.
Day 4: Spectacular Burma Banks
We woke up surrounded by the open ocean, ready to explore Corner Bank. The first two dives of the day featured pristine waters with nurse sharks resting under bommies, Napoleon wrasse, and dogtooth tuna. A rare juvenile rockmover added to the excitement.
At Rainbow Bank, the marine life was equally stunning. Silvertip sharks, nurse sharks, and a juvenile clown triggerfish stole the show. The vibrant corals and excellent visibility showcased schools of fusiliers, a great barracuda, and moray eels.
Our final dive of the day at Silvertip Bank revealed a breathtaking hard coral garden dotted with bommies. Nurse sharks swam gracefully, while giant pufferfish, surgeonfish, potato groupers, and a silvertip shark contributed to the magic.
Day 5: Mantas at Dendro’s and Sea Fan Forest Pinnacle
The day began with a breathtaking dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle, where an oceanic manta ray graced us with a fleeting visit. Schools of yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda, fusiliers, and nudibranchs highlighted the vibrant marine ecosystem.
Returning to Fan Forest Pinnacle for two more dives, we discovered even more treasures, including a yellow tiger tail seahorse, stonefish, and playful peacock mantis shrimp. Schools of snappers and fusiliers, along with two schools of yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda, plus a bustling coral garden, made these dives truly special.
At sunset, we dove at Eagle’s Nest, where Simon’s group had another thrilling encounter with a giant oceanic manta.
The night dive in Western Rocky’s cave was equally mesmerising, featuring vibrant soft corals and a juvenile giant red frogfish perched on a coral outside the arch. Sleeping parrotfish, pufferfish, and moray eels completed the colourful scene, while some blue dragons illuminated the entrance wall of the cave.
Day 6: Wrapping Up at Dendro’s Pinnacle
Our final dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle was a fitting end to this incredible trip. Schools of fusiliers, surgeonfish, jacks, and a curious octopus brought the adventure to a close.
Afterward, we returned to Kawthaung for border formalities and enjoyed some downtime in town before heading back to Ranong. Some guests visited the temple atop the hill, while others relaxed with a few local beers at the pier’s bar.
A Christmas to Remember…
This Christmas trip brought together a wonderful group of divers and delivered extraordinary underwater experiences. From colourful reefs and giant sea fans to sharks, manta rays, seahorses, cuttlefish and the dramatic landscapes of the Burma Banks, every day brought something new.
Thank you to everyone who joined us — we can’t wait to dive with you again!
