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Blog about diving in Burma and Thailand

Trip report: 22nd to 28th December 2024, Christmas in Burmese waters

29/12/2024

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22nd of december 2024 liveaboard cruise report
​As Christmas drew near, we embarked on another unforgettable journey with MV Smiling Seahorse, this time venturing into the mesmerizing Burmese waters of the Mergui Archipelago. Guests from Germany, the UK, Australia, USA, Hong Kong, India, Switzerland, Belgium, and The Netherlands joined us, bringing an international flair to this festive trip. It was a pleasure welcoming back some old friends and making new ones this week!
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After leaving Ranong, we crossed the border into Burma, completing the necessary formalities in Kawthaung before heading into the Mergui Archipelago. This cluster of more than 800 islands is a pristine diving paradise, offering an untouched underwater world teeming with marine life and dramatic seascapes.
international guests heading to myanmar
kawthoung from the sundeck

Day 1: A Colorful Start to Our Adventure

We began the trip with a gentle check dive at High Rock. The underwater world welcomed us with cowfish, porcupine pufferfish, yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda swimming gracefully around us. Hidden among the sandy seabed, we spotted white-eyed moray eels and a perfectly camouflaged crocodile fish, while pipefish and cuttlefish added their elegance to the scene.

Our second dive at Dragon Island lived up to its name with vibrant marine life. We marveled at a banded sea snake gliding by, colorful chromodoris nudibranchs adorning the reef, and a dramatic moment as a cuttlefish laid eggs while its partner stood guard nearby. Schools of fusiliers, snappers, Moorish idols, and sergeant fish moved in unison, creating a captivating underwater ballet. Groupers and a curious snowflake moray eel completed the spectacle.

The third dive at Ba Wey, also known as Rainbow Rock, greeted us with a kaleidoscope of colors. Soft corals in shades of yellow, blue, pink, white, and red surrounded us. We spotted baby yellow boxfish, blue-spotted stingrays, and giant moray eels. Tiny critters such as Durban dancing shrimps and chromodoris nudibranchs added a touch of magic, while cuttlefish continued their egg-laying ritual.
​
As night fell, we returned to Ba Wey for a mesmerizing night dive. The darkness brought out fascinating marine life, including giant moray eels, fimbriated moray eels, lobsters, and crabs. The reef was alive with small nocturnal creatures, such as spiny lobsters, soldierfish, soldier crabs, and squat shrimp gliding in the moonlit water.
crocodile fish have some of the prettiest eyes in the Andaman Sea
crocodile fish have some of the prettiest eyes in the Andaman Sea
giant moray in myanmar
Nudibranch come in all shapes ans colors
blue spotted sting ray

Day 2: Exploring the Three Islet AKA shark cave

The day began at Square Rock, where challenging visibility didn’t dampen the excitement. We were rewarded with sightings of a tiger tail seahorse, a swirling tornado of pickhandle barracudas, and banded baby pipefish. Schools of yellowfin jackfish, various colourful nudibranchs, and a blue-spotted stingray completed this thrilling dive.

Our second dive took us to Submarine, where schools of snappers, fusiliers, and jacks swirled around us. We discovered a bamboo shark resting in a crack, boxfish exploring the reef, and the elegant egg cowrie moving gracefully among the corals.
The day’s final dive at Shark Cave delivered on its name with a barracuda tornado and an array of moray eels, including honeycomb and fimbriated varieties. We also encountered marble rays and blue-spotted stingrays sharing the same bed under a rock, while cowfish, tomato anemonefish, and cleaning partner shrimp completed the vibrant reef life.
​
We ended the day with an unforgettable Christmas BBQ night on board, surrounded by laughter and the festive spirit of our amazing guests. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of orange and pink, the aroma of sizzling delicacies filled the air.
Our international group of divers shared stories of their underwater adventures, raising glasses to the magic of the season and the camaraderie that had blossomed on this journey. With music, delicious food, and a starlit sky above, it was a night to remember—a perfect way to celebrate Christmas together in the heart of the Andaman Sea!
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Day 3: Stunning Sea Fans and a Dramatic Caves

Sea Fan Forest Pinnacle was our destination for the first two dives of the day. The site’s giant sea fans were home to treasures such as tiger tail seahorses and mating cuttlefish. Simon’s group was lucky enough to witness a fleeting visit from a small manta ray, while schools of yellow snappers and fusiliers, along with devil scorpionfish, made these dives truly memorable.

In the afternoon, we headed to Western Rocky for a dive at Eagle’s Nest. The highlight was a rare sight of two male cuttlefish battling for a mate, releasing clouds of ink during their duel. Nearby, a Maldivian sponge snail slowly made its way across the rocks, while batfish and a poison claw sea urchin added to the underwater drama.

The day ended with a dive through Western Rocky’s spectacular cave. We entered through an archway and swam through a tunnel beneath the island, emerging to a barracuda tornado and a massive school of jacks. Inside the cave, we spotted an elbow crab and marveled at colorful soft corals lining the walls.
grouper and giant seafan in Mergui Archipelago liveaboard
Myanmar liveaboard - vibrant soft coral

Day 4: Spectacular Burma Banks

We woke up surrounded by the open ocean, ready to explore Corner Bank. The first two dives of the day featured pristine waters with nurse sharks resting under bommies, Napoleon wrasse, and dogtooth tuna. A rare juvenile rock mover added to the excitement.
At Rainbow Bank, the marine life was equally stunning. Silvertip sharks, nurse sharks, and a juvenile clown triggerfish stole the show. The vibrant corals and excellent visibility showcased schools of fusiliers, a great barracuda, and moray eels.
Our final dive of the day at Silvertip Bank revealed a breathtaking hard coral garden dotted with bommies. Nurse sharks swam gracefully, while giant pufferfish, surgeonfish, potato groupers, and a silvertip shark contributed to the magic.
burma banks deep blue water
nurse shark in Burma banks

Day 5: Mantas at Dendros and Seafan Forest pinnacle

The day began with a breathtaking dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle, where an oceanic manta ray graced us with a fleeting visit. Schools of yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda, fusiliers, and nudibranchs highlighted the vibrant marine ecosystem.

Returning to Fan Forest Pinnacle for two more dives, we discovered even more treasures, including a yellow tiger tail seahorse, stonefish, and playful peacock mantis shrimp. Schools of snappers and fusiliers, along with two schools of yellowtail and pickhandle barracuda, plus a bustling coral garden, made these dives truly special.
At sunset, we dove at Eagle’s Nest, where Simon’s group had another thrilling encounter with a giant oceanic Manta.
The night dive in Western Rocky’s cave was equally mesmerizing, featuring vibrant soft corals and a juvenile giant red frogfish perched on a coral outside the arch. Sleeping parrotfish, pufferfish, and moray eels completed the colorful scene, while some blue dragons illuminated the entrance wall of the cave.
oceanic manta ray
giant frogfish perfectly camouflage in mergui
blue dragon nudibranch in Burma

Day 6: Wrapping Up at Dendro’s Pinnacle

​Our final dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle was a fitting end to this incredible trip. Schools of fusiliers, surgeonfish, jacks, and a curious octopus brought the adventure to a close.
Afterward, we returned to Kawthaung for border formalities and enjoyed some downtime in town before heading back to Ranong. Some guests visited the temple atop the hill, while others relaxed with a few local beers at the pier’s bar.
myanmar diving with octopus
cute pair of cuttlefish in mergui archipelago diving safari

A Christmas to Remember...

This Christmas trip brought together a wonderful group of divers and delivered extraordinary underwater experiences. Thank you to everyone who joined us—we can’t wait to dive with you again!


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Camille Fogarolo 

Camille has been traveling the world since her mid twenties and dived many seas before finally settling down in Thailand in 2012. With her husband Franck, they opened The Smiling Seahorse liveaboard to offer cruises in the most unexplored area of South East Asia and became quite the experts when it comes to diving in Myanmar! Proud mother of two she still travels as much as she can and usually joins a dive trip to Mergui Archipelago every month.

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  • When & Where
    • Schedule and Prices
    • Destinations >
      • North Andaman Thailand >
        • Similan Islands
        • Surin Islands >
          • Richelieu Rock
        • The essential Underwater photo Guide to diving Thailand
      • South Andaman Thailand >
        • Phuket & Koh Phi Phi National Parks
        • Koh Lanta National Park
        • Koh Lipe and Tarutao National Park
      • Mergui Archipelago >
        • Liveaboard diving holiday in Myanmar
        • Burma's best dive sites
        • The Ultimate Underwater photo Guide to diving Burma
  • ABOUT
    • Our Boat >
      • DELICIOUS FOOD
    • Diving in Thailand in 2025-2026
    • Diving in Myanmar/Burma in 2025-2026
    • Blackwater diving in Thailand and Myannmar
    • Marine life in Thailand's Andaman Sea
    • Marine life in Mergui Archipelago
    • Dive Courses >
      • Learn to Dive
      • Continue diving education
      • Rescue diver
      • Professional Dive Courses
      • Hone your dive skills with a specialty course
      • Photo coaching in Thailand on the Smiling Seahorse
    • Guest Book
    • FAQ
  • Plan your trip
    • Our hotels recommendations
    • Khao Sok National Park
    • Taxi services >
      • Taxi services to and from Ranong
      • Taxi services to and from Phuket
      • Taxi services to Tap Lamu and Khao Lak
    • 10 things to do around Ranong
  • PROMO
    • HOT DEALS
    • Special Expeditions >
      • 8D Whale shark expedition - 20 March 2026 - North and South
  • gallery
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    • Videos
  • CONTACT
  • BLOG
    • Most popular posts