Nurse Sharks, Eagle Rays, Leopard Blenny & a Leaping Marlin!
Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier after completing Thai immigration procedures, our international group of divers from Holland, the UK, the USA, Canada, Germany, and Colombia set sail for another exhilarating expedition aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. After formalities in Kawthung, Burma, we cruised northwest toward the remote and pristine waters of the Mergui Archipelago, anticipating days filled with thrilling dives before reaching the legendary Burma Banks.
About the Burma Bank
The Burma Banks is an isolated offshore reef system consisting of vast submerged plateaus and seamounts rising abruptly from the deep ocean floor. Unlike the nearshore reefs of the Mergui Archipelago, which are fringed with islands, the Burma Banks lie far out in the Andaman Sea, approximately 180 km west of the Burmese coast. Known for their strong currents, these deep reefs attract large pelagic species and host expansive coral gardens teeming with marine life. Our divers were in for an unforgettable adventure.
Day 1: High Rock, Dragon Island & Bawei
Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the trip, with schools of yellowtail barracuda weaving through the water, accompanied by shimmering yellowback fusiliers. Moray eels peeked out from crevices, while nudibranch enthusiasts delighted in spotting various species, including the striking thornback boxfish, also known as cowfish.
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The second dive at Dragon Island had a mild current, allowing for an exciting drift dive. Baby yellowback fusiliers and juvenile barracudas formed mesmerizing clouds around the reef, while peacock mantis shrimps scuttled along the seabed. The reef was bursting with life—longfin batfish hovered in the currents, while clown triggerfish and regal angelfish added splashes of color to the scene.
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At Bawei, also called Rainbow Rock, the vibrant coral formations were alive with activity. Our night dive here revealed a fascinating array of nocturnal creatures, including tiny pygmy squid, Glossodoris nudibranchs, and agile fibriated moray eels. A massive stonefish lay camouflaged on the reef, while a devil scorpionfish lurked nearby. A lucky few spotted both tiny and medium needle cuttlefish, along with an impressive basket star shrimp and a striking blue dragon nudibranch.
Day 2: Three Islets & Khun Pi Law Village Visit
Our first dive at Three Islets, known as Square, provided exceptional visibility, revealing tigertail seahorses clinging to sea fans and a bustling school of yellowstripe trevally. Marble rays cruised gracefully along the seabed, while orange-spotted pipefish hid among soft corals. Photographers captured exquisite close-ups of flabellina exoptata and schools of brassy and golden trevally.
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At Shark Cave, sergeant major fish were fiercely defending their eggs from opportunistic wrasses. Banded stick pipefish and vibrant nudibranchs decorated the reef, while baby blacktip fusiliers darted through the water in synchronized movements.
Submarine, our third dive site, was alive with energy. Schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and blue-and-gold fusiliers filled the water column. A bamboo shark rested under a rocky ledge, and a curious ornate ghost pipefish hovered nearby.
In the late afternoon, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque island with white sandy beaches and a serene Buddha temple. The night dive here did not disappoint—giant sweetlips hovered near the reef, ghost pipefish floated elegantly, and Chromodoris geminus nudibranchs illuminated the night.
Submarine, our third dive site, was alive with energy. Schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and blue-and-gold fusiliers filled the water column. A bamboo shark rested under a rocky ledge, and a curious ornate ghost pipefish hovered nearby.
In the late afternoon, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque island with white sandy beaches and a serene Buddha temple. The night dive here did not disappoint—giant sweetlips hovered near the reef, ghost pipefish floated elegantly, and Chromodoris geminus nudibranchs illuminated the night.
Day 3: North Twin Pinnacle & North Twin Ree
Our first two dives at North Twin Pinnacle featured schools of barracuda, yellow-lined fusiliers, and Risbecia pulchella nudibranchs. Partner shrimps hid among anemones, while giant moray eels watched divers curiously. A majestic eagle ray glided past, and Kuhl’s blue-spotted stingrays rested on sandy patches.
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At North Twin Reef, the late afternoon and sunset dives were calm but teeming with life. Large schools of yellowback and mainlined fusiliers dominated the scene, along with batfish and sweetlips near the coral bommies. Octopuses displayed their shape-shifting abilities, while giant coral tables formed a breathtaking underwater landscape.
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Day 4: Arrival at Burma Banks – Row Bank & Rainbow Bank
Our much-anticipated arrival at Burma Banks brought exciting encounters. At Row Bank, nurse sharks glided effortlessly through the currents, while a striking pair of Napoleon wrasses—male and female—patrolled the reef. Schools of silver sweetlips, black-and-white snappers, and scisortail fusiliers surrounded us. The highlight of the day? A marlin leaping at the surface near the boat!
Rainbow Bank’s third dive delivered an incredible tornado of bigeye trevally, complemented by massive marble rays and another nurse shark sighting. The sunset dive was equally thrilling, featuring honeycomb moray eels and giant sweetlips mingling with snappers.
Some divers opted for a blackwater dive instead, exploring the mysterious depths beyond the reef, discovering translucent larval fish, delicate jelly creatures, and fascinating drifters such as sea elephants, sea angels, tongue fish, isopods, and purpleback squid drifting in the open ocean."
Rainbow Bank’s third dive delivered an incredible tornado of bigeye trevally, complemented by massive marble rays and another nurse shark sighting. The sunset dive was equally thrilling, featuring honeycomb moray eels and giant sweetlips mingling with snappers.
Some divers opted for a blackwater dive instead, exploring the mysterious depths beyond the reef, discovering translucent larval fish, delicate jelly creatures, and fascinating drifters such as sea elephants, sea angels, tongue fish, isopods, and purpleback squid drifting in the open ocean."
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Franck was lucky to photograph a stunning Leopard Blenny (Exallias brevis), a photogenic yet elusive fish. With its freckled pattern and a size reaching up to 15 cm, this little beauty blends seamlessly into its surroundings, making it a challenging but rewarding subject for underwater photographers. Typically found hiding among the branches of Acropora, Pocillopora, and Porites corals, the Leopard Blenny is known for its skittish nature, darting away at the slightest disturbance. Capturing it on camera required patience, but the results were well worth the effort!"
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Day 5: Coral Bank & Silvertip Ban
The first two dives at Coral Bank featured an abundance of nurse sharks, a majestic mangrove whipray, and dense schools of fusiliers, surgeonfish, and potato groupers. A longnose emperor made a dramatic appearance, hunting an octopus in the sand.
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At Silvertip Bank, the highlight was a spectacular school of fusiliers swirling around the reef, alongside marble rays and a visiting Napoleon wrasse. We also encountered triggerfish, nurse sharks, damsels, and groupers hiding within coral crevices.
Day 6: Seafan Forest, Eagle Rock & Western Rocky Cave
Seafan Forest offered fantastic visibility, revealing swarms of baby lined fusiliers and mating Pharaoh cuttlefish. Divers were thrilled to spot stonefish and tigertail seahorses among the sea fans.
At Eagle Rock, we encountered yellowtail barracuda, a mesmerizing school of batfish, and the always-popular Pikachu nudibranch. Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef, and fimbriated moray eels peeked from their hiding spots.
Our final dive at Western Rocky Cave introduced us to pufferfish, twinstripe fusiliers, and damsels tending to their eggs—an intimate moment of underwater life.
At Eagle Rock, we encountered yellowtail barracuda, a mesmerizing school of batfish, and the always-popular Pikachu nudibranch. Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef, and fimbriated moray eels peeked from their hiding spots.
Our final dive at Western Rocky Cave introduced us to pufferfish, twinstripe fusiliers, and damsels tending to their eggs—an intimate moment of underwater life.
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Day 7: A Grand Finale at Dendro’s Pinnacl
Our last dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle blessed us with incredible visibility. Schools of five-line snappers, gold giant trevally, and yellowtail barracuda surrounded the site. Stonefish lurked motionless, while vibrant nudibranchs—Chromodoris annulata and Chromodoris reticulata—crawled along the reef. The finale was a tiny orange-spotted pipefish, a true delight for macro enthusiasts.
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With our tanks emptied and our hearts full, we bid farewell to the Burma Banks and the Mergui Archipelago, already dreaming of our next adventure.
Stay tuned for more dive stories from the Andaman Sea!
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