Exploring the Mergui Archipelago: Diving Volcano Craters, Military Islands and Powerful Currents in Myanmar

Burma exploration cruises in the Mergui Archipelago are all about exploration. This remote corner of Myanmar offers an incredible variety of underwater environments, and some of the most memorable dives are found far from the better-known sites.

On this particular exploration cruise, our itinerary takes us from the crater of a volcano to a small local military camp, then on to Square Rock, where divers can experience some of the strongest currents of their lives. Above and below the surface, the Mergui Archipelago constantly reminds us why this destination is such a fascinating place to explore by liveaboard.

From a Volcano Crater to a Paradise-Like Island

Our Burma exploration cruise is underway, and we are determined to make it a good one. We begin by diving in the crater of a volcano before making a small visit to a local military camp.

The military camp may sound like an unusual stop on a diving trip, but the setting is extraordinary. From the water, the island looks almost like a paradise island, surrounded by clear tropical seas and remote landscapes. It is another reminder that diving in the Mergui Archipelago is about much more than simply ticking off dive sites: the journey itself is part of the adventure.

Square Rock: Diving in Powerful Currents

From there, we head towards Square Rock, a dive site where the current can be extremely powerful. This is one of the characteristics that makes diving in the Mergui Archipelago so exciting: conditions can change dramatically from one site to another, and divers need to be prepared to adapt to the environment.

Strong current does not necessarily mean a bad dive. In the right place, it can bring nutrients and pelagic life close to the reef, creating exactly the kind of dynamic underwater environment that experienced divers love to explore. But it also means that knowing where to look, understanding the conditions and listening to the dive team are particularly important.

These sites have a huge amount to offer. Depending on the dive site and season, encounters can include grey reef sharks, turtles, nudibranchs, seahorses, longfin cometfish, juvenile shaded batfish, pineapple fish, sea snakes and blue-spotted stingrays.

There is a lot to see here, but you have to know where to look. And that is exactly what makes these dive sites so interesting.

Shaded Batfish: A Very Curious Juvenile

One of the memorable encounters on this trip is the juvenile shaded batfish, Platax pinnatus. This species is also known as the pinnate spadefish, pinnate batfish, dusky batfish, shaded batfish or red-faced batfish.

As a juvenile, Platax pinnatus is usually blackish-brown or almost completely black, with a striking orange stripe outlining the body. As the fish matures, its appearance changes considerably and adults become a much duller silver.

The species can grow to around 45 cm and juveniles are particularly fascinating to divers because of both their appearance and their behaviour.

These fish are highly inquisitive by nature. They may come remarkably close to a diver’s face to investigate their strange visitors and can sometimes follow a group of divers for much of the dive.

The juvenile shaded batfish is one of those small encounters that can easily become a highlight of a dive. While large animals often attract immediate attention, spending time with a curious juvenile fish can be just as rewarding.

Frogfish and the Art of Camouflage

While diving around the Western Rocky area, we encounter a few more frogfish. From one season to the next, the fish population can vary, which is one of the reasons we never quite know what we are going to find on a Mergui dive.

Frogfish are masters of camouflage. They do not have scales, and their ability to blend into their surroundings provides important protection from predators. Their colours can vary considerably, and many individuals have unusual spines, bumps and textures that make them remarkably difficult to distinguish from the surrounding reef.

Finding a frogfish underwater can therefore become a real treasure hunt. They may be sitting almost motionless, perfectly disguised against a sponge, coral formation or rocky surface, waiting for an unsuspecting prey item to come close.

Sea Fan Forest and Western Rocky

We are heading towards some of the best dive sites in the Mergui Archipelago, including Sea Fan Forest and Western Rocky. Although we never know exactly what we will find down there, there is always a sense that something good is waiting for us.

At Sea Fan Forest, we encounter octopus, stonefish, tunas and many different kinds of shrimp. The site offers a fascinating mixture of larger animals and small creatures, with plenty of opportunities for divers who enjoy taking their time and searching carefully through the reef.

At Western Rocky, the encounters continue with frogfish and blotched stingrays, as well as two seahorses and many lobsters. It is this variety that keeps these sites so interesting. One dive can be dominated by a large animal, while the next is spent searching for a tiny, perfectly camouflaged creature.

Every Season Brings Something Different

One of the things we enjoy most about diving the Mergui Archipelago is that the underwater landscape never seems to tell exactly the same story twice.

We had many ghost pipefish during the previous season. This season seems to be more about seahorses and frogfish. It makes us wonder what the next season will bring.

That unpredictability is part of the attraction of diving in Myanmar. Even when returning to familiar dive sites, the marine life can change from one season to another. A familiar reef may suddenly reveal a frogfish that was nowhere to be found before, a seahorse may appear in an unexpected location, or a school of fish may transform the character of a dive site.

For divers who enjoy exploration, searching and discovering rather than simply following a fixed checklist, this is what makes the Mergui Archipelago so special.

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Discover More

• Diving in Myanmar – Explore the remote waters of the Mergui Archipelago.
• Mergui Archipelago – Discover one of Southeast Asia’s most remote diving destinations.
• Western Rocky – Explore one of the most fascinating dive sites in the Mergui Archipelago.
• Myanmar’s Best Dive Sites – Discover more of the region’s spectacular underwater sites.
• All About the Shaded Batfish – Learn more about Platax pinnatus and its remarkable transformation from juvenile to adult.
• Frogfish: Masters of Camouflage – Learn how to spot one of the reef’s most elusive fish.
• 101 Nudibranchs of Myanmar – Discover the colourful world of nudibranchs found in Burmese waters.