​We left Ranong’s Badin Pier after clearing Thai immigration, welcoming guests from France, Greece, Germany, USA, Malaysia, Singapore, Belgium, Ireland, and Italy. After a smooth Burmese immigration process in Kawthung, the Smiling Seahorse headed north into the Mergui Archipelago, a remote labyrinth of jungle-covered islands, quiet bays, and rarely visited reefs where diving still feels like exploration.

​Our check dive and second dive took place at South Twin Reef, easing everyone back into the water with a mix of macro and reef life. Flabellina and Chromodoris annulata covered the walls, while squat shrimps and Durban dancing shrimps shared space with peacock mantis shrimps. Schools of lined surgeonfish and ringtail surgeonfish cruised over the reef, joined by neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers. Dogtooth tuna patrolled the blue, giant moray eels peeked from the rocks, and batfish hovered calmly nearby, while tiny juvenile anemonefish added delicate flashes of pink.
Dive three brought us to North Twin Reef, where octopus activity was high, giant moray eels dominated the crevices, and Chromodoris annulata appeared again along the reef. A few coral groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, and titan triggerfish completed the scene.
The night dive in North Twin Bay was pure atmosphere. Curious octopus, squids, jellyfish sheltering tiny fish, big red reef crabs, scorpionfish, and bar-tail moray eels filled the darkness. Parrotfish and triggerfish were found sleeping, firmly wedged into the rock, their trigger spine locked in place to keep predators at bay, a perfect example of reef survival after sunset.

​We spent the full day at Black Rock, a dramatic offshore pinnacle where deep water, currents, and open ocean life constantly rewrite the dive plan. Morning dives were rewarded with curious oceanic manta rays circling above the reef, accompanied by schools of chevron barracuda, blacktip trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies, and bigeye trevallies. Great barracuda, giant moray eels, yellow-edged moray eels, and shy batfish added to the excitement, while coral groupers, peacock groupers, powder-blue surgeonfish, and velvet surgeonfish filled the reef.
Macro life was everywhere, with anemone crabs, cleaner shrimps, squat shrimps, bearded scorpionfish, and colorful nudibranchs. Neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers formed dense clouds around the pinnacle, constantly shifting with the current.
The night dive revealed a different Black Rock, with pygmy squid hunting shrimps, devil scorpionfish, bar-tail moray eels, sleeping parrotfish, rabbitfish, and a stunning collection of cowries including tiger cowrie, money cowrie, and mole cowrie, along with basket stars and sea cucumbers carpeting the reef.

​We explored Three Islets, diving Submarine, Shark Cave, and Square. At Submarine, bamboo sharks rested calmly while cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish hovered above the reef. Schools of neon fusiliers, yellowback fusiliers, slender fusiliers, and twin stripe fusiliers mixed with chevron barracuda and passing trevallies including giant trevally, bluefin trevally, and golden trevally. A cobia hid among rainbow runners, while wahoo and mackerel cut through the blue. One lucky group even witnessed a whale shark cruising through the main channel.

​Shark Cave delivered classic scenes of tomato anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish guarding their eggs, anemone crabs, white-eye moray eels, schools of fusiliers, and wrasses repeatedly harassing sergeant majors protecting their nests.
At Square, tiger-tail seahorses stole the show alongside orange-spotted pipefish, golden trevallies, yellowtail barracuda, batfish, and spider crabs. The night dive added decorated crabs, sea snakes, cone snails, gorgonian crabs, and glowing nudibranchs to the mix.
After the final dive, we set course west toward the legendary Burma Banks, a remote chain of offshore seamounts rising from deep water and known for shark encounters and wide-open pelagic scenery.

​At Row Bank, adult and juvenile nurse sharks dominated the dives, cruising effortlessly above sandy slopes. Powder-blue surgeonfish and lined surgeonfish moved across the reef alongside oriental sweetlips and two-spot butterflyfish. Around the coral heads, coral groupers and peacock groupers patrolled calmly, while cleaner wrasse and sixline wrasse stayed busy at their stations. Between the rocks, leopard blennies and fang blennies popped in and out, joined by flashes of royal dottybacks adding color to the shadows.
At Rainbow Bank, the scene remained wide open and shark-filled, with more nurse sharks gliding past mangrove snappers and schools of humpback unicornfish and sleek unicornfish. The reef itself was alive with pastel ringwrasse, moon wrasse, and African coris sweeping over the bottom, while chalk bass and royal dottybacks hovered close to the structure. Tiny blennies guarded their holes as blue and gold fusiliers streamed overhead.
The final two dives at Coral Bank brought white-tip reef shark into the mix, accompanied by powder-blue surgeonfish, epaulette surgeonfish, and golden rabbitfish grazing along the reef. The smaller life stole the show here, with cleaner wrasse, blackear wrasse, dragon wrasse, leopard blennies, chalk bass, royal dottybacks, and juvenile damselfish filling every crevice, turning these quieter dives into beautifully detailed reef explorations.

​Three dives at Silvertip Bank delivered classic big-bank scenery with nurse sharks, silvertip reef sharks, bigeye emperors, powder-blue surgeonfish, lined surgeonfish, and humpback unicornfish cruising above the reef. Macro highlights included nudibranchs and a tapestry shrimp hiding inside a giant clam, while mappa pufferfish drifted lazily by.
The evening ended with a blackwater dive, revealing larval flounder, larval mantis shrimp, post-larval porcupinefish, flying fish larvae, pencil squid, purple-back squid, larval anemones, siphonophores, comb jellies, and clouds of drifting plankton glowing in the darkness.

​At Sea Fan Forest, giant purple soft corals and towering sea fans framed stonefish, sleeping giant moray eels, rainbow runners, and schools of neon fusiliers and yellowback fusiliers. The reef was alive with coral groupers, peacock groupers, wrasses, blennies, parrotfish, and triggerfish weaving through the coral forest.
The second dive turned into a true team effort as most divers joined a successful ghost net removal, freeing the reef from a massive abandoned net.
The afternoon and sunset dives at Western Rocky, covering the Islets, the Cave, and Eagle’s Rock, delivered schools of trevallies, fusiliers, yellowtail barracuda, lionfish, scorpionfish, titan triggerfish, ghost pipefish, giant moray eels, harlequin shrimps, and a spectacular Glossodoris cincta laying eggs. The day ended with our traditional BBQ and boat party under the stars.

​Our final dive took place at Dendro’s Peak, where pharaoh cuttlefish, giant moray eels, Clark’s anemonefish, schools of rainbow runners, bluefin trevallies, neon fusiliers, and yellowback fusiliers provided a perfect farewell.
We then headed back to Kawthung for Burmese immigration, shared a last beer at the Smile Bar, and returned to Ranong, closing another unforgettable Mergui and Burma Banks adventure aboard the Smiling Seahorse.

​We departed Ranong’s Badin Pier after clearing Thai immigration, welcoming guests from Switzerland, France, Canada, the USA, Australia, Austria, the Netherlands, Macau, New Zealand, and Belgium. After a smooth Burmese immigration process in Kawthung, we set sail north through the Mergui Archipelago, a vast maze of untouched islands, mangroves, and reefs where nature still sets the rhythm.

Our first dive at South Twin Reef eased everyone into the trip. Gold-saddle rabbitfish cruised above the reef while longbarbel goatfish sifted through the sand. Vagabond and Meyer’s butterflyfish fluttered around coral heads, joined by batfish and an octopus tucked safely into its den. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers streamed past checkered and five-lined snappers, while coral groupers and ringtail surgeonfish patrolled the hard coral slopes. Cleaner wrasses darted between passing fish, completing the scene.

Dives two and three at North Twin Reef brought more action. Blackfin barracudas formed tight schools in the blue, cuttlefish hovered above the reef, and scorpionfish blended perfectly into the background. Bicolor parrotfish grazed noisily, lionfish hovered motionless, and tiny gobies and blennies peeked out from coral cracks as moon wrasses and sixline wrasses zigzagged through the reef.
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As night fell, we launched our first blackwater dive, and it delivered instant magic. A marlin appeared out of the darkness, hunting right along the dive line. Sleeper lobsters drifted by clutching salps, spearing mantis shrimps flashed their raptorial arms, and jellyfish, comb jellies, and larvaceans filled the water column. Larval flounders, sea butterflies, crab larvae, flying squid, mahi-mahi, golden trevallies, and even a wandering moray eel made this an unforgettable first plunge into the deep pelagic night.

​We spent the entire day at Black Rock, one of the jewels of the Mergui Archipelago. Rising steeply from the depths, this exposed seamount is famous for big fish, strong currents, and surprises.

Dives one, two, and three were blessed with oceanic Manta rays gliding effortlessly around the divers, looping back again and again as if curious. Great barracudas, cobias, and massive schools of blackfin barracudas filled the blue, while yellowback and neon fusiliers shimmered around the rock. Chromodoris nudibranchs added color to the reef, octopuses hid among the boulders, and schools of jacks surged past. Among them swam schools of giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, golden trevallies, and bigeye trevallies, with the golden trevallies appearing to be in full mating display. A school of blacktip trevallies (Caranx heberi), an unusual sight, swept past the reef.”

The sunset dive revealed a different world. Clark’s anemonefish guarded their eggs fiercely, surrounded by anemone crabs, squat shrimps, marble shrimps, and banded boxer shrimps. Octopuses crept across the reef, Durban dancing shrimps waved from crevices, schools of black surgeonfish passed by, and African pompano cruised through the fading light. Porcupinefish, map puffers, bullet head parrotfish, and powder-blue surgeonfish rounded off the scene.
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Some divers opted for another blackwater dive, encountering pelagic seahorses, larval tuna, pencil squid, larval triggerfish, mini jacks sheltering inside salps, and post-larval African pompano drifting silently through the darkness.

We explored Three Islets, diving between Shark Cave, Submarine, and Square.
At Submarine, a bamboo shark rested under an overhang while cleaner pipefish and orange-spotted pipefish hovered nearby. Blue-spotted ribbontail rays glided across the sand, batfish cruised by, and the reef came alive with moon wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, yellowback fusiliers, damselfish, and map puffers.

Shark Cave revealed tomato and Clark’s anemonefish guarding their homes, anemone crabs waving from their tentacles, and white-eye moray eels peering from the shadows. Wrasses repeatedly attacked sergeant majors guarding their eggs, while schools of golden trevallies, yellow-lined fusiliers, and even a passing wahoo added excitement.
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At Square, we found tiger-tail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, yellowtail barracudas, giant trevallies hiding in cracks, golden trevallies, and batfish drifting calmly in the blue.
After the final dive, we set sail west toward the Burma Banks, a remote chain of offshore seamounts rising abruptly from deep water, known for big sharks, strong currents, and true blue-water diving.

Our first dive at Row Bank delivered classic Burma Banks scenery. Adult and juvenile nurse sharks rested on the sand, ringtail and epaulette surgeonfish grazed nearby, and honeycomb moray eels peeked from coral heads. Golden rabbitfish, two-spot butterflyfish, and oriental sweetlips mingled with small coral groupers, cleaner wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, juvenile angelfish, and cleaning shrimps.
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After the dive, the weather began to build. For safety reasons, we made the decision to leave the banks early and head back toward the shelter of the Mergui Archipelago. Spirits stayed high onboard, with time to relax, review photos, and enjoy the ride back through calmer waters.

Back at Western Rocky, the first two dives at the Cave and Eagle’s Rock offered rich macro life. Octopuses, harlequin shrimps, Spanish mackerel, Bornella nudibranchs, twin chromodoris, and colorful soft corals filled the walls. Schools of snapper and fusiliers passed by, while butterflyfish, angelfish, wrasses, and damselfish kept the reef buzzing.

The third dive and sunset at Sea Fan Forest brought cuttlefish, stonefish, octopuses, blacktail barracudas, and flowing schools of neon and yellowback fusiliers. Coral groupers, moon wrasses, parrotfish, butterflyfish, triggerfish, and clouds of damselfish swirled around the massive sea fans.

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That night, some divers slipped back into the dark for another blackwater dive, encountering sea snakes, salps, crab larvae, snapper larvae, cornetfish larvae, paper nautilus octopuses, sleeper lobsters, mantis shrimps, amphipods, and countless drifting creatures carried by the current.

An early morning dive at Sea Fan Forest set the tone for the day. Cuttlefish hovered over the reef, stonefish lay perfectly camouflaged on the bottom, and octopuses moved between coral heads. Peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows while yellow and brown trumpetfish drifted vertically along the sea fans. Red lionfish and clearfin lionfish hunted in the shadows, joined by devil scorpionfish resting motionless. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers streamed past, accompanied by lunar wrasses, bullethead parrotfish, and clouds of blue-green chromis.
We then returned to Western Rocky for three rich dives.

At the Cave, ghost pipefish swayed gently next to the wall, while blunt decorator crabs, white-spotted hermit crabs, and cleaning shrimps occupied every ledge. Giant moray eels watched from deep inside the cave, sharing the space with honeycomb moray eels. Nudibranchs such as leopard chromodoris and blue dragons added color, while Moorish idols cruised slowly past. The reef was busy with porcupinefish, map puffers, clown triggerfish, blueface angelfish, emperor angelfish, raccoon butterflyfish, and threadfin butterflyfish weaving through the coral.

At Eagle Rock, the action moved into the blue. Spanish mackerel cut through schools of jacks, including giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, and bigeye trevallies. Schools of yellowback and neon fusiliers wrapped the rock, mixed with five-lined snappers and yellow-lined snappers. Devil scorpionfish sat patiently on the bottom while several octopuses were spotted mating in the shallows. The reef itself was alive with moon wrasses, sixline wrasses, damselfish, skunk anemonefish, Clark’s anemonefish, coral groupers, honeycomb groupers, blennies peeking from holes, angelfish, butterflyfish, and triggerfish cruising between boulders.
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The final dive at the Islets was a macro lover’s dream. Harlequin shrimps danced on sea stars, twin chromodoris and blue dragons crawled across the reef, and pipefish hovered close to soft corals. Around them swam a colorful mix of damselfish, fairy wrasses, parrotfish, butterflyfish, juvenile angelfish, rabbitfish, and small snappers, bringing the day to a perfect close.

Our last dive of the trip took place at Dendro’s Peak, and it delivered a spectacular finale. Two giant marble rays glided effortlessly above the reef, while cuttlefish were seen mating on the top of the pinnacle, the male flashing intense patterns and colors to protect his female from rivals. Large schools of jacks and mackerel swept through the blue, joined by giant trevallies, bluefin trevallies, and golden trevallies. Yellowback and neon fusiliers formed dense clouds over the reef, constantly on the move.

On the reef itself, bird wrasses, moon wrasses, and sixline wrasses darted between coral heads, while coral groupers and honeycomb groupers patrolled their territories. Bullethead parrotfish and bicolor parrotfish grazed noisily, surrounded by damselfish guarding their nests. Skunk anemonefish and Clark’s anemonefish hovered above their anemones, and triggerfish cruised past, including yellow-margin triggerfish and titan triggerfish.
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After surfacing, we set course back toward Kawthung for Burmese immigration, shared a final goodbye beer onboard, and finally returned to Ranong to re-enter Thailand. A fitting end to an intense and unforgettable journey through the Mergui Archipelago, the Burma Banks, and the deep pelagic world of blackwater diving.

​The MV Smiling Seahorse set off once again for an exceptional cross-border adventure — a journey from Thailand’s Surin & Similan National Parks to Myanmar’s wild Mergui Archipelago. This week we welcomed our wonderful guests from Israel, excited to explore two countries, two ecosystems, and a whole spectrum of marine life.
After check-in and Thai immigration formalities, we boarded the boat and headed across the Pakchan River to Kawthung for Burmese immigration. Passports stamped, gear prepped, smiles wide — our expedition began.

​Our first dive at High Rock was the perfect warm-up. We drifted along the rocky outcrops and immediately met two tigertail seahorses hiding among the hard corals. Thornback boxfish hovered curiously near the walls while crocodile needlefish glided just under the surface. A busy peacock mantis shrimp scuttled across the sand, and Durban dancing shrimps flashed their white antennae from inside tiny crevices. Moray eels peeked out from the reef — fimbriated and white-eye morays sharing the same neighbourhood — and a cooperative group of four scribbled filefish swam past, changing colour as they fed. Schools of trumpetfish, lionfish, bearded scorpionfish, coral and peacock groupers, snappers, fusiliers, and a handful of blackfin barracudas filled the water column, with a white-tongue trevally circling us during the safety stop.

At Three Islets, the Submarine site gave us a lovely first encounter with a bamboo shark tucked into a rocky crack, and a turtle drifting lazily overhead. We found orange-spotted pipefish and the elegant nudibranch Chromodoris rufomarginata on the sandy slope. Shark Cave was buzzing with life; the entire cave shimmered with sweepers, and outside the entrance clouds of fusiliers pulsed in the current. Sergeant majors were fiercely defending their eggs while wrasses, angelfish, butterflyfish, and triggerfish opportunistically picked at any moment of distraction. Wahoos streaked through the blue, accompanied by a great barracuda, golden trevallies, and even a giant bicolour parrotfish. Square continued the spectacle with more tigertail seahorses, a giant moray, and well-hidden bearded scorpionfish.
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Our night dive around Square and Shark Cave was a treasure hunt of nocturnal critters. Five tigertail seahorses showed up, along with sponge spider crabs, decorated crabs, Godiva quadricolor nudibranchs, and sleepy pufferfish wedged among the corals. Soldierfish and cardinalfish hovered in the glow of our torches while hinge-beak shrimp and banded cleaner shrimp darted from rock to rock.

At North Twin Reef, we descended into crystal-clear blue water where sea snakes wove gracefully across the reef. Oriental sweetlips gathered in loose schools, and anemonefish bobbed in their host anemones. Giant morays, surgeonfish, and redtooth triggerfish patrolled the boulder fields. Seal-face pufferfish, boxfish, and a forest of staghorn, lettuce, and foliose corals created a vibrant underwater landscape.
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South Twin Reef delivered even more action with partner shrimps and peacock mantis shrimps scurrying along the sandy patches. Juvenile triggerfish flicked between coral heads while gold-saddle rabbitfish fed in tight groups. Four dogtooth tunas shot past in formation. Blue dragon nudibranchs were scattered everywhere, and the reef was alive with lined and stripe-bristletooth surgeonfish. A Jenkins ray rested on the sand beside a blue-spotted stingray, while yellow-edge and giant morays watched from shaded holes. An octopus shifted colours as we approached, and juvenile oriental sweetlips wiggled in their rhythmic dance. We ended the dive drifting over beautiful table corals and elegant funnel corals.

Our two dives at Sea Fan Forest were spectacular. We explored towering forests of gorgonians where another tigertail seahorse clung to the branches. Yellow-lined and neon fusiliers filled the water column, pursued by rainbow runners weaving through the openings. We found several octopus, stonefish, and devil scorpionfish, along with nudibranchs such as Chromodoris, Risbecia annulata, and Geometrica. Zebra morays slithered over the rocks, yellow trumpetfish hovered motionlessly beside sea fans, and peacock mantis shrimps guarded their burrows. Juvenile boxfish, needlefish, and a perfectly-patterned young emperor angelfish added splashes of colour. A curious cuttlefish rounded off the dive with a gentle display of shifting patterns.

At Western Rocky, we entered the famous cave with octopus and cuttlefish patrolling the entrance. Coral-banded shrimp and red reef crabs clung to the walls, and we spotted a delicate wentletrap snail and a striking Maldivian sponge snail on the sandy floor. Blue dragon nudibranchs added flashes of purple and white as we continued along the reef, passing bannerfish, goatfish, snappers, and butterflyfish enjoying the current.
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Our sunset dive around the Western Rocky islets unfolded beautifully as clouds of fusiliers, sergeant majors, and damsels swirled around us. Harlequin shrimps crept delicately over the rocks, and more Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef. White-tongue trevallies chased schools of baitfish, accompanied by scribbled filefish, pyjama surgeonfish, rainbow runners, golden trevallies, and a pack of blacktail barracudas. At one point, two giant morays squeezed together inside the same hole, seemingly unbothered by each other's presence.

Back at Dendro’s Peak, we descended along a slope draped in purple soft corals. Yellow-lined, neon, and yellowback fusiliers streamed past in glittering clouds while rainbow runners and mackerel darted along the edges. Bannerfish hovered near coral heads, trevallies patrolled the shallows, and a banded sea snake explored the cracks. Zebra morays peeked out from the reef, and coral groupers hunted through the bommies. A large turtle drifted peacefully overhead — and then the highlight of the day arrived as two magnificent manta rays swept gracefully above us, circling repeatedly.

The afternoon dives at Sea Fan Forest were equally memorable. Fusiliers filled every corner of the reef, and another tigertail seahorse clung to a sea fan. A pharaoh cuttlefish hovered confidently before drifting away into the blue. Pickhandle barracudas and golden trevallies patrolled the sandy patches while batfish, moorish idols, and titan triggerfish appeared throughout the site. A large tiger cowrie, several anthias, wrasses, butterflyfish, and damsels added detail to the coral scene. More octopus and a well-camouflaged stonefish ended the day.
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That night’s blackwater dive was exceptionally special, featuring a female paper nautilus drifting like a delicate origami shell. Larval wrasses and tiny fish sheltering inside jellyfish floated through the dark, and we found many larval triggerfish and fish living inside salps — a perfect finale to the drifting night.

We re-entered Thailand in the early hours and cruised south toward Richelieu Rock, where perfect conditions awaited us.
What Makes Richelieu Rock Famous?

• A horseshoe-shaped pinnacle covered in purple and pink soft corals
• Massive schools of trevallies, barracudas, and snappers
• Incredible macro life: ghost pipefish, harlequin shrimps, tiger eggs cowries
• Historically known for whale shark sightings
• Named after Admiral Andreas du Plessis de Richelieu, a Danish officer who served as Commander-in-Chief of the Royal Siamese Navy — not the French cardinal, despite the popular legend

Our first dive at Richelieu Rock was enchanting. Dense schools of glassfish wrapped the entire reef in a shimmering veil. Longnose emperors worked in tight groups, flashing brilliant colours as they hunted, while giant trevallies, bluefins, white-tongue trevallies, and bigeyes patrolled the edges. Batfish hovered calmly around the cleaning stations, and titan triggerfish bulldozed their way along the bottom. Octopus displayed quick colour changes, and huge potato groupers watched us from between the cracks. White-eye, zebra, and yellow-edge moray eels peeked from the crevices, and tiny tiger-egg cowries clung to sea fans. Nudibranchs including chromodoris and flabellina added delicate splashes of colour while bannerfish, wrasses, dartfish, anthias, and butterflyfish decorated every corner of the reef.
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Our night dive at Surin South (Ao Pakkard) offered a different perspective. Giant red crabs prowled the sandy areas, Durban dancing shrimps and marble shrimps flickered under our torches, and boxer-banded shrimps waved their oversized claws. Parrotfish, surgeonfish, and pufferfish were already tucked into their nighttime hideouts, while barracudas sliced through the dark hunting yellowback fusiliers.

We returned to Richelieu Rock for two more morning dives filled with action. Longnose emperors swam in the shallows where cleaners worked tirelessly around their open mouths. Giant trevallies and chevron barracudas surged through the schools of glassfish. We found beautiful harlequin shrimps, cleaner and orange-spotted pipefish, and several potato groupers cruising the bommies. Boxfish, angelfish, needlefish, cobia, black snapper, and African pompano all made appearances. A large marble ray glided past us to complete the scene.
Similan National Park Highlights

• Famous for giant granite boulders and white-sand beaches
• Excellent visibility and vivid blue water
• Frequent encounters with manta rays, whale sharks, and giant trevallies
• Beautiful coral gardens with sea fans, hard corals, and soft coral patches

Our third dive at Koh Tachai brought us into the energetic mix this site is known for. Bluefin trevallies and chevron barracudas hunted in packs while giant trevallies and dogtooth tunas patrolled the deeper zones. Marble groupers rested on the bommies while longfin bannerfish, unicorn surgeonfish, angelfish, and massive swarms of fusiliers filled the reef. Lobsters and snappers hid among the corals, and batfish drifted by in lazy groups.
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At Koh Bon, we explored the ridge and bay where hard corals glowed beautifully in the afternoon light. A baby blacktip shark cruised the shallows while an octopus hid in a coral crack. Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef. The dive ended with colourful scenes full of wrasses, goatfish, butterflyfish, damsels, and scorpionfish, with the occasional wahoo and giant moray cruising through the dusk.

​Our last day took us south to Racha Noi, where Banana Bay offered a relaxed sandy slope with scattered bommies teeming with damsels, redtooth triggerfish, Meyer’s butterflyfish, fiveline and checkered snappers, longbarbel goatfish, squirrelfish, and gold-saddle rabbitfish. A banded sea snake glided along the reef, and a mantis shrimp, guarded closely by its pair of squat shrimps, kept watch from its burrow.
At Manta Reef, we found Glossodoris cincta​, a snowflake moray, and several seal-face pufferfish drifting over the sandy bottom. Garden eels swayed in the light current as blue-spotted rays glided past. Butterflyfish, damsels, and a bearded scorpionfish rounded out the dive while yellowback fusiliers danced above in glittering swirls.

​From Myanmar’s caves and giant sea fans to Thailand’s iconic reefs, this trip delivered unforgettable moments: manta rays, seahorses, endless fusiliers, dramatic landscapes, and amazing energy from our guests.
Thank you to our wonderful divers from Israel for sharing this week with us and their wonderful photos to illustrate this blogpost!
See you soon for another adventure with the MV Smiling Seahorse! 🐟💙

​The MV Smiling Seahorse officially launched the new diving season with a second unforgettable adventure across Myanmar’s remote waters — from the mysterious limestone islands of the Mergui Archipelago to the vast, sandy plateaus of the Burma Banks.
Our second group of the season — joining us from France — gathered at the pier in Ranong with bright smiles and even brighter expectations. After completing the immigration formalities and crossing into Myanmar via Kawthung, passports were stamped, bags stowed, and spirits high as we set course into the wild blue.

​Our check dive at High Rock revealed the season’s first treasures: tigertail seahorse, pickhandle barracudas, swirling fusiliers and jacks, peacock mantis shrimps, white-eyed moray eels, Spanish mackerel, and even a curious rainbow runner. Thornback boxfish, pharaoh cuttlefish, and orange-spotted pipefish rounded off the dive — an explosion of colour to start the trip.
The following dives took us to the magical Three Islets:

• Dive 2 – “The Square & Shark Cave”:  tigertail seahorses, cuttlefish, blue dragons, Durban dancing shrimps, porcelain crabs (one of them carrying eggs!) , zebra and banded snake eels, and playful cleaner pipefish.
• Dive 3 – “Submarine & Shark Cave”: the tunnels echoed with life — yellowtail barracudas, golden trevallies, a gliding eagle ray, tomato anemonefish, tigertail seahorse, a stonefish, a bamboo shark, and several moray eels.

Our night dive at Shark Cave & Square was pure magic — nine tigertail seahorses, including some mating! Add to that toadfish, cone snails on the move, sleeping parrotfish, soldierfish, and crustaceans galore — a proper nocturnal parade.
That night, the Smiling Seahorse pointed her bow north toward the legendary Black Rock.

​Four dives in total, each more electric than the last. One lucky group spotted a manta ray early in the day, while others drifted among eagle rays, cobias, tunas, yellowtail barracudas, and dense schools of bigeye trevallies.
Amid the action, we admired white devil scorpionfish, octopus, peacock mantis shrimps, lionfish, and patches of vibrant soft corals home to butterflyfish and wrasses.
A sunset dive sealed the day — schools of sergeant fish guarding their eggs, bannerfish, snappers, and reef octopus emerging as the light faded.

​North Twin Pinnacle: barracudas, fusiliers, red snappers, and a few dogtooth tunas gliding in the blue.
At North Twin Reef, we crossed paths with broadclub cuttlefish, banded sea snakes, giant morays, mantis shrimps, and vibrant corals where angelfish, triggerfish, and surgeonfish danced in the current.
At South Twin Reef, two dives revealed Maldivian sponge snails, marbled groupers, schools of surgeonfish, pyjama surgeonfish, juvenile sweetlips, a fleeting whitetip reef shark, blue ribbon eels, and another elegant wahoo cruising by.
As the sun dipped, we turned our compass westward toward the open ocean — and the mythical Burma Banks.

​The Roe Bank welcomed us with two nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a graceful mangrove whipray, and dogtooth tunas patrolling the edges.
At Coral Bank, the spectacle continued: more nurse sharks, a marble ray, honeycomb moray eels, and a bustling coral city alive with emperor and royal angelfish, neon fusiliers, powder-blue sergeants, velvet surgeonfish, clown triggerfish, trevallies, and Napoleon wrasses.
Even the safety stops were lively — schools of jacks and snappers swirling in golden light.

​The two morning dives at Rainbow Bank were a perfect blend of serenity and adrenaline. Marble rays, nurse sharks snoozing under bommies, clouds of fusiliers, surgeonfish, tunas, great barracudas, royal angelfish, giant sweetlips, potato groupers, and grey reef sharks filled the blue.
A third dive at Silvertip Bank offered encounters with Napoleon wrasses, grey reef sharks, and another nurse shark gliding past gracefully.
One group opted for a sunset dive among vibrant reef life — bannerfish, butterflyfish, wrasses, and anthias painting the scene — while the rest of the guests embarked on a surreal blackwater dive, drifting with larval anemonefish, eel larvae, stargazers, pyrosomes, siphonophores, venus girdles, and glowing comb jellies under the stars.

​At Sea Fan Forest, enormous gorgonians lined the reef like underwater cathedrals. Neon fusiliers, trevallies, glassfish, pickhandle barracudas, and curious mantis shrimps mingled with stonefish, anemone crabs, and longnose hawkfish.
At Western Rocky, the current brought white-tongue trevallies, yellowfin barracudas, and marble shrimps out to play.
Our night dive at Western Rocky was a treasure hunt — sleeping trevallies, massive sponge crabs, feather star squat lobsters, giant morays, tiny shrimps on whip coral, coral cowries, phenacovolva snails, and even a sea butterfly fluttering through the torchlight.

We enjoyed a delicious barbecue dinner that night, featuring spare ribs, hand-cut French fries, tomates à la provençale, a fresh salad assortment, grilled chicken wings and sausages, along with potatoes en robe des champs served with a rich garlic butter.

​Back at Sea Fan Forest, we spotted lionfish, devil scorpionfish, a fimbriated moray sharing its crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
Our final dives at Eagle Rock, The Cave, and The Islets revealed pickhandle barracudas, longnose emperors, dogtooth tunas, boxfish, porcupinefish, nudibranchs like Chromodoris reticulata and Glossodoris cincta, harlequin shrimps, leopard morays, rainbow runners, and Napoleon wrasses.

​Our final dive brought a fitting finale: schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, a majestic great barracuda, banded sea snake, and one last fimbriated moray waving us goodbye.
With our tanks empty but our hearts full, we headed back to Kawthaung for our traditional Burmese beers, immigration clearance, and the sail back to Ranong.
The second expedition of the season was everything we’d hoped for — thrilling dives, wonderful guests, and the timeless magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks. A big thank you to our wonderful guests for illustrating this blogpost with their photos!
Until next time — see you underwater aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse!

​The MV Smiling Seahorse kicked off the new diving season with a spectacular journey through the remote waters of Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago and the legendary Burma Banks. Departing from Ranong, our first group of adventurers — joining us from France, Switzerland, Belgium, Ireland, the US, and the UK — gathered with excitement at the pier.
After check-in, we completed the usual immigration formalities in Ranong before crossing the border to Kawthung, Myanmar. With passports stamped and smiles all around, we set course toward the mysterious Mergui Archipelago — a place of dramatic limestone and granit boulder islands, lush jungle cliffs, and some of the most vibrant underwater life in the Andaman Sea.

​Our check dive at High Rock was the perfect start, offering calm conditions and an easy descent into a thriving coral reef. Among the swaying soft corals, we spotted oriental sweetlips, butterflyfish, blue damsels, and curious bannerfish darting between the rocks — a beautiful welcome back to Burmese waters.
Our second dive took us to Three Islets (Square), alive with action! Schools of fusiliers and white tongue jacks swirled above the reef, while a tigertail seahorse and an orange-spotted pipefish delighted our macro enthusiasts. Blue-lined snappers, Moorish idols, and a few playful anemonefish added even more colour to the scene.
Dive three at Three Islets (Shark Cave) brought strong surges, so we explored around the island instead of entering the cave. The current carried schools of pickhandle barracudas past walls of soft corals where tomato anemonefish guarded their homes.
For the night dive, we returned to Shark Cave. Under torchlight, we found barracudas cruising the dark, parrotfish sleeping soundly in their mucus bubbles, a seal-face pufferfish tucked into a crack, and a curious pharaoh cuttlefish. We also encountered soldierfish, cardinalfish, and a few colourful wrasses hunting under the beams of our lights.
That night, we set sail toward the famous Black Rock.

​At sunrise, we descended on Black Rock’s north side, greeted by schools of bigeye jacks, barracudas, lionfish, and snapper clouds drifting in the blue.
Our second dive on the south side was pure magic — mantas! Not one, but four graceful oceanic manta rays soared through the current, looping and gliding as dogtooth tunas patrolled below.
The third and fourth dives kept the action going, with dense schools of jacks, fusiliers, and surgeonfish swirling through the water column. A leopard moray eel peeked from a crevice during the sunset dive, a perfect finale to a spectacular day.

​North Twin Pinnacle — the current-fed site teeming with barracudas, fusiliers, and red snappers. We admired tiger  egg cowries, moray eels, and a few curious dogtooth tunas cruising by.
At North Twin Reef, we met a banded sea snake weaving through coral bommies, an octopus changing colours before our eyes, and a squad of batfish gliding gracefully in the blue. Mantis shrimps and lobsters completed the day’s macro highlights.
After our final dive, the Smiling Seahorse set course westward for the Burma Banks — a legendary chain of submerged plateaus rising from the depths of the Andaman Sea, located about 180 km offshore. These vast, remote reefs are known for their big pelagic life and pristine coral formations.

​Our first dives at Roe Bank revealed a world of giants — several nurse sharks resting on the sandy bottom, a mangrove whipray, and schooling black surgeonfish weaving around coral heads. Dogtooth tunas patrolled the outer slopes, keeping smaller reef fish in constant motion.
At Rainbow Bank, the spectacle continued — nurse sharks again, a stunning marble ray, three honeycomb moray eels, and a vibrant reef alive with emperor angelfish, surgeonfish, batfish, and butterflyfish. A Maldives sponge snail was spotted nestled among the corals — a treat for our keen-eyed photographers.

​The morning dives at Coral Bank lived up to its name — hard corals in excellent condition, surrounded by nurse sharks, whitetip reef sharks, and a flurry of wrasses, triggerfish, and parrotfish.
At Silvertip Banks, the energy was palpable. Grey reef sharks patrolled the plateau, nurse sharks lounged near coral heads, and a swimming zebra shark passed by trough clouds of anthias, surgeonfish, and bannerfish shimmered in the current.

​Back among the islands, we explored Sea Fan Forest, where enormous gorgonian fans hosted ghost pipefish and schools of fusiliers and trevallies.
At Western Rocky Eagle Rock, large schools of white tongue trevallies and yellowfin barracudas filled the blue, while marble shrimps hid in the cracks.
Our sunset dive in Western Rocky Cave brought us face to face with two Glossodoris nudibranch protecting its eggs, curious cuttlefish, and colourful reef fish preparing for nightfall.

​We returned to Sea Fan Forest in the morning, spotting lionfish, devil scorpionfish, and a stunning fimbriated moray eel sharing a crevice with squat shrimps and a feisty spear mantis shrimp.
At Western Rocky Cave, a beautiful Chromodoris nudibranch added a pop of colour, while the final dives at Eagle Rock delivered dramatic cuttlefish mating and fighting scenes, plus a rare Pikachu nudibranch — the perfect finale for our photographers!

Our last dive at Dendro’s Peak brought one more burst of colour — schools of snappers, fusiliers, yellowfin trevallies, and even a curious yellow boxfish to send us off.
With the dives complete, we headed back toward Kawthung for our traditional Burmese beers and final immigration clearance before returning to Ranong. The first trip of the season set the tone perfectly — thrilling dives, great company, and the magic of the Mergui Archipelago and Burma Banks welcoming us back once again.
See you underwater on our next adventure with MV Smiling Seahorse!

​Our journey began in Ranong, where our international guests—this time hailing from France, Austria, and the Philippines—stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, their eyes alight with excitement. After clearing Thai immigration, we crossed the border into Kawthoung, Myanmar, where the rhythmic stamping of passports signaled the official start of our voyage into one of the last untouched marine frontiers: the breathtaking Mergui Archipelago. It was a pleasure welcoming back some good friends and creating new friendships this week.

The ocean greeted us gently at High Rock, our check dive site, where the clear waters hinted at the wonders lying beneath the surface. Silver ribbons of yellowtail barracudas spiraled gracefully around us, mingling with yellowback fusiliers weaving effortlessly through the current. A shy moray eel peeked out from its crevice, while a solitary thornback boxfish hovered calmly nearby. Hidden among the branches of a gorgonian fan, a tiger tail seahorse played a game of underwater hide-and-seek. Vibrant nudibranchs—tiny explosions of color—adorned the reef like living confetti, as schools of butterflyfish flitted past, as curious about us as we were about them.

At Three Islets, the magic only deepened. Shark Cave pulsed with life: a proud adult yellow tiger tail seahorse clung steadfastly to a coral branch, while banded stick pipefish slithered gracefully through the rubble below. Along the rocky surfaces, Chromodoris and Flabellina nudibranchs performed their delicate, colorful dance. Above, fusiliers—blue-lined, yellow-lined, and every shade in between—formed a shimmering curtain that rippled across the reef. A sleek wahoo darted through the school like a silver arrow, while angelfish and parrotfish painted the scene with bold strokes of tropical color.

At Square, the underwater action showed no sign of slowing. Yellowstripe trevallies and longnose emperors darted through shimmering clouds of glassfish, while brassy and golden trevallies cruised along the reef’s edge like vigilant sentinels. Amid the commotion, tiger tail seahorses clung calmly to coral branches, unbothered by the lively currents. Butterflyfish and wrasses wove through the midwater, adding intricate layers to the reef’s silent symphony.

At Submarine, gentle currents allowed us to drift effortlessly alongside schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and golden dash fusiliers. A marble ray glided like a shadow over the sandy bottom, barely disturbing the drowsy goatfish resting below. Nearby, damselfish fiercely guarded their nests, while a curious trumpetfish trailed us, blending amusingly with our dive gear.

After a surface interval filled with laughter and fresh fruit, we stepped ashore at the quaint village of Khun Pi Lar. Its white-sand beach and serene Buddha temple offered a peaceful contrast to the vibrant underwater world.

As night fell, we returned to Shark Cave, now transformed into a nocturnal wonderland. Sweetlips slumbered beneath ledges, decorator crabs scuttled by in bizarre camouflage, and a ghost pipefish twirled in our torchlight. A Chromodoris geminus glowed like a living jewel, illuminating the darkness with its fluorescent brilliance.

We began the next day with Roe Bank, where nurse sharks rested languidly on the sandy bottom, surrounded by shimmering schools of silver sweetlips. Nearby, a marlin breached near the boat—an electrifying moment of pure ocean magic. The fish schools were immense: scissortail fusiliers, yellowback fusiliers, and black-and-white snappers surged like living tides. Giant sweetlips and redfin butterflyfish hovered near coral heads, accompanied by inquisitive triggerfish and a vibrant assortment of wrasses.

At Rainbow Bank, our third dive brought us face-to-face with a swirling vortex of bigeye trevallies—a mesmerizing underwater tornado. Nurse sharks cruised by silently, while a mangrove whipray materialized from the gloom like a gliding UFO. Amid the bustle of sweetlips and giant snappers, we spotted elegant pairs of bannerfish fluttering gracefully, and clouds of anthias painted the coral outcrops in vivid orange hues.

Our sunset dive was nothing short of exhilarating. One group encountered a bold and curious bull shark, while nurse sharks hovered in the twilight shadows. Honeycomb moray eels slithered between coral heads, and territorial triggerfish patrolled the sandy slopes, fiercely guarding their nests. Pufferfish drifted by slowly, like whimsical balloons suspended in the deep.

Meanwhile, others descended into the inky blackness for a blackwater dive—a surreal journey into the unknown. From the depths rose tiny post-larval creatures: flounders, squid, even a sea elephant, their translucent forms glowing under our lights like alien visitors in a dreamlike ballet from the abyss.

The next morning, Roe Bank welcomed us once more. It was so good, it was worth coming back! Dogtooth tuna sliced through vast shoals of fusiliers, their speed a blur against the swirling backdrop. Marble rays lay half-buried in the sand, only to lift off with a graceful flap, vanishing into the blue. We wound our way around boulders teeming with surgeonfish, while massive potato groupers watched from the shadows, still and imposing.

At Coral Bank, the excitement continued. Nurse sharks cruised alongside us, and another bull shark made a brief but thrilling appearance. Towering schools of yellow dot fusiliers and surgeonfish filled the water column, while rainbow runners shot through them like silver missiles. Below, groupers, triggerfish, and curious blennies darted among the coral rubble, each corner revealing new life.

Silvertip Bank brought our adventure to a spectacular finale. Nurse sharks patrolled in lazy circles, marble rays soared effortlessly overhead, and a majestic Napoleon wrasse glided past with quiet authority. Curtains of fusiliers shimmered like underwater rainbows, momentarily parting to reveal damselfish, groupers, and sergeant majors weaving through the colorful chaos.

We returned to Seafan Forest under crystal-clear conditions, the visibility offering a perfect window into the reef’s vibrant life. Fusiliers flowed like living rivers across the coral landscape, pursued by sleek great barracudas and darting rainbow runners. A pharaoh cuttlefish shimmered with ever-changing colors as it glided by, while a stonefish lay perfectly still, masterfully disguised among the reef. A proud tiger tail seahorse clung delicately to a sea fan, and nearby, a devil scorpionfish nestled between sponge and coral, its spiny silhouette barely detectable.

The adventure continued at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky Cave. Schools of batfish drifted gracefully overhead, five-line snappers pulsed across the reef in synchronized bursts, and twinstripe fusiliers streamed past like underwater arrows.
Chromodoris nudibranchs were abundant, their vibrant bodies accompanied by delicate, ribbon-like spirals of freshly laid eggs. Sponge snails peeked from their porous homes, while giant moray eels and fimbriated eels slinked through the crevices. A bright red frogfish, bold and still, posed patiently for photos—one nestled beneath the arch, the other tucked against the rocky wall like a secret waiting to be discovered.

We returned once more to Seafan Forest, and the magic continued. Nudibranchs spiraled their ribbon-like eggs onto the reef, stonefish vanished into their surroundings with expert camouflage, and schools of yellowback fusiliers pulsed rhythmically over coral heads like golden currents. Back at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky, we were delighted to find our familiar pair of giant frogfish—still motionless, still mesmerizing—surrounded by a kaleidoscope of reef life. Damselfish fiercely guarded their patches of eggs, while curious puffers hovered nearby, inspecting our bubbles with wide-eyed fascination.

Our final dive brought us to Dendro’s Pinnacle—and what a farewell it was. Visibility stretched endlessly as we drifted through clouds of five-line snappers and golden trevally. Yellowtail barracudas shimmered like blades in the distance.
​We were treated to the sight of not one, but two dazzling Chromodoris species--annulata and reticulata—while a graceful orange-spotted pipefish waved a quiet goodbye from the coral.

April greeted us with calm seas, radiant skies, and a boat brimming with international energy as divers from Belgium, France, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Italy stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Together, we set off on an unforgettable journey through the stunning Mergui Archipelago and the remote Burma Banks during our highly anticipated Manta Ray Expedition. Promising close encounters with ocean giants and elusive marine wonders, this trip didn’t just meet expectations—it exceeded them.

What made this expedition truly exceptional was the presence of Scarlett Taylor, a marine biologist from Canada with a Master’s degree in Biology from Dalhousie University. Scarlett brought a wealth of knowledge and infectious enthusiasm, sharing captivating insights into manta ray behavior, shark ecology, and the importance of protecting critical marine habitats. Drawing from her experience with the Manta Trust and her current work with Global Reef in Thailand, she hosted daily talks that deepened our understanding and appreciation of the incredible creatures we encountered beneath the waves.

Once we cleared immigration in Kawthoung, we set a course northwest into Burmese waters, ready to explore the untamed heart of the Andaman Sea.

Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the adventure ahead. A delicate Tiger Tail Seahorse nestled gracefully among the corals stole the show, while a curious Cowfish drifted by like a miniature UFO. We cruised alongside a shimmering school of Pickhandle Barracudas, silver scales catching the sunlight, as Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef edges with quiet authority. In the cracks and coral bommies, Butterflyfish flitted about while bold little Damselfish held their ground, helping us ease back into the rhythm of the deep.
​
Next, we headed to Ba Wei, where a striking black Ribbon Eel waved like a ribbon of ink from its burrow, and a pair of elegant Jann’s Pipefish twirled delicately among soft coral tendrils. At the cleaning stations, Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasses hovered with purpose, ready for business, while vibrant Angelfish and shimmering Anthias painted the reef in brilliant hues.

We capped off the day at South Twin, where a lively current brought in the big fish. Bluefin and Giant Trevallies swept past with power, joined by the lightning-fast Rainbow Runners. Yet even amid the rush, we paused to admire the more subtle beauty—Moorish Idols and Bannerfish swaying gracefully in the swell. As night fell, we slipped beneath the surface once more for a mysterious dive in South Twin Bay. There, Parrotfish dozed inside their protective mucous cocoons, and stealthy Lionfish prowled through rocky crevices, adding a touch of nighttime drama to an already magical day.

We dedicated a full day to exploring the wonders of the Shark Cave area, diving between Shark Cave, Square Rock, and Submarine. Each site delivered in spades. A shy Bamboo Shark peeked from beneath a rocky ledge, while Tiger Tail Seahorses clung delicately to sea fans swaying in the shallows. Five Marble Rays glided past in graceful formation, skimming over coral gardens teeming with life—Tomato Clownfish darting through anemones, curious Cuttlefish drifting by, and schools of Batfish swirling like a slow-motion ballet overhead.

The macro magic was just as mesmerizing. Electric-hued Chromodoris nudibranchs lit up the reef, cryptic Decorator Crabs disguised themselves among the rubble, and alien-like Xeno Crabs gripped tightly to whip corals, looking like creatures from another planet. Meanwhile, Gold Spot Trevallies zipped through the shallows in gleaming flashes, as the reef bustled with a kaleidoscope of Wrasses, Groupers, and Triggerfish going about their vibrant, busy lives.

Black Rock never fails to impress—and today, it truly outdid itself. Across four exhilarating dives, we were treated to four manta ray sightings, including two unforgettable close encounters with majestic oceanic mantas. One glided directly overhead, lingering in the dappled sunlight as our bubbles rose to meet it—an awe-inspiring moment that left the entire group breathless with wonder.

Below and around us, schools of Big Eye Trevallies moved like rolling silver waves, creating a mesmerizing backdrop to the manta magic. In the reef’s quieter corners, diligent Harlequin Shrimps nibbled away at sea stars, their intricate patterns standing out against the rocky crevices. A ghostly White Devil Scorpionfish, nearly indistinguishable from the stone it rested on, reminded us just how much goes unnoticed until you truly look.

The entire reef pulsed with energy—Snappers darted in tight formation, Surgeonfish weaved through the chaos, and Sweetlips hovered with their signature pout. Black Rock delivered a sensory feast, once again proving why it’s one of the crown jewels of the Andaman Sea.

At North Twin Pinnacle, the blue came alive with motion and grace. Four Eagle Rays soared past like underwater kites, effortlessly gliding through the open water. All around us, Fusiliers streamed in dazzling bursts of blue and yellow, like living confetti swirling on the current. Below, the reef buzzed with life—Snappers and regal Emperor Angelfish filled the coral-scape, occasionally parting to make way for larger visitors, including a sleek Tuna cruising by in the distance during our third dive at North Twin Reef.

The Burma Banks unfolded before us like a dreamscape of the deep—vast, remote, and teeming with life. Over eight thrilling dives, we shared encounters that will be etched in memory for years to come. In the golden afternoon light, three Bull Sharks patrolled a ridge with quiet dominance, while a passing Tiger Shark sent a ripple of adrenaline through the group, hearts pounding in unison.

Beneath coral overhangs, Nurse Sharks lay in calm repose, while a juvenile Grey Reef Shark darted with youthful agility through a swirling school of Trevally. A graceful Turtle glided by, utterly unbothered by our presence, as if we were just another current in its path. Meanwhile, enormous Marble Rays stirred the sandy bottom with their powerful wings, sending Gobies and Sand perch scattering like leaves in the wind.

The Burma Banks delivered wild beauty in every direction—a raw and humbling reminder of the ocean’s power, mystery, and grace.

As we made our way back toward the Western Rocky area, Seafan Forest welcomed us with one last breathtaking surprise—a graceful Hammerhead Shark gliding past in a silent, unforgettable flyby (unfortunately not captured by any camera!).

Tucked among the swaying sea fans, another perfectly camouflaged Tigertail Seahorse revealed itself, while Stonefish lurked in plain sight, waiting to be discovered. In the shallows, Cuttlefish shimmered with vibrant color displays, their bodies flashing like living neon signs. Our macro luck held steady with one final encounter—a charming pair of Harlequin Shrimps, closing the loop on a week of small, spectacular finds.

At The Cave and Eagle Rock, the weird and wonderful made their curtain call. A hulking Giant Frogfish rested motionless in the open, its shape barely distinguishable from the coral around it. A cleverly hidden Elbow Crab and a regal Slipper Lobster reminded us once more that in the underwater world, magic hides in the details—and the surprises truly never stop.

As we sailed back toward Thailand, the sun dipped below the horizon, closing the chapter on a week filled with manta ballets, thrilling shark encounters, and kaleidoscopic coral gardens. With Scarlett’s expert insights adding depth to every dive, and a spirited crew of divers from around the world sharing the experience, this Manta Ray Expedition became more than a trip—it became a story we’ll be telling for years.

Already dreaming of the next one? So are we...