​Our journey began in Ranong, where our international guests—this time hailing from France, Austria, and the Philippines—stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, their eyes alight with excitement. After clearing Thai immigration, we crossed the border into Kawthoung, Myanmar, where the rhythmic stamping of passports signaled the official start of our voyage into one of the last untouched marine frontiers: the breathtaking Mergui Archipelago. It was a pleasure welcoming back some good friends and creating new friendships this week.

The ocean greeted us gently at High Rock, our check dive site, where the clear waters hinted at the wonders lying beneath the surface. Silver ribbons of yellowtail barracudas spiraled gracefully around us, mingling with yellowback fusiliers weaving effortlessly through the current. A shy moray eel peeked out from its crevice, while a solitary thornback boxfish hovered calmly nearby. Hidden among the branches of a gorgonian fan, a tiger tail seahorse played a game of underwater hide-and-seek. Vibrant nudibranchs—tiny explosions of color—adorned the reef like living confetti, as schools of butterflyfish flitted past, as curious about us as we were about them.

At Three Islets, the magic only deepened. Shark Cave pulsed with life: a proud adult yellow tiger tail seahorse clung steadfastly to a coral branch, while banded stick pipefish slithered gracefully through the rubble below. Along the rocky surfaces, Chromodoris and Flabellina nudibranchs performed their delicate, colorful dance. Above, fusiliers—blue-lined, yellow-lined, and every shade in between—formed a shimmering curtain that rippled across the reef. A sleek wahoo darted through the school like a silver arrow, while angelfish and parrotfish painted the scene with bold strokes of tropical color.

At Square, the underwater action showed no sign of slowing. Yellowstripe trevallies and longnose emperors darted through shimmering clouds of glassfish, while brassy and golden trevallies cruised along the reef’s edge like vigilant sentinels. Amid the commotion, tiger tail seahorses clung calmly to coral branches, unbothered by the lively currents. Butterflyfish and wrasses wove through the midwater, adding intricate layers to the reef’s silent symphony.

At Submarine, gentle currents allowed us to drift effortlessly alongside schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and golden dash fusiliers. A marble ray glided like a shadow over the sandy bottom, barely disturbing the drowsy goatfish resting below. Nearby, damselfish fiercely guarded their nests, while a curious trumpetfish trailed us, blending amusingly with our dive gear.

After a surface interval filled with laughter and fresh fruit, we stepped ashore at the quaint village of Khun Pi Lar. Its white-sand beach and serene Buddha temple offered a peaceful contrast to the vibrant underwater world.

As night fell, we returned to Shark Cave, now transformed into a nocturnal wonderland. Sweetlips slumbered beneath ledges, decorator crabs scuttled by in bizarre camouflage, and a ghost pipefish twirled in our torchlight. A Chromodoris geminus glowed like a living jewel, illuminating the darkness with its fluorescent brilliance.

We began the next day with Roe Bank, where nurse sharks rested languidly on the sandy bottom, surrounded by shimmering schools of silver sweetlips. Nearby, a marlin breached near the boat—an electrifying moment of pure ocean magic. The fish schools were immense: scissortail fusiliers, yellowback fusiliers, and black-and-white snappers surged like living tides. Giant sweetlips and redfin butterflyfish hovered near coral heads, accompanied by inquisitive triggerfish and a vibrant assortment of wrasses.

At Rainbow Bank, our third dive brought us face-to-face with a swirling vortex of bigeye trevallies—a mesmerizing underwater tornado. Nurse sharks cruised by silently, while a mangrove whipray materialized from the gloom like a gliding UFO. Amid the bustle of sweetlips and giant snappers, we spotted elegant pairs of bannerfish fluttering gracefully, and clouds of anthias painted the coral outcrops in vivid orange hues.

Our sunset dive was nothing short of exhilarating. One group encountered a bold and curious bull shark, while nurse sharks hovered in the twilight shadows. Honeycomb moray eels slithered between coral heads, and territorial triggerfish patrolled the sandy slopes, fiercely guarding their nests. Pufferfish drifted by slowly, like whimsical balloons suspended in the deep.

Meanwhile, others descended into the inky blackness for a blackwater dive—a surreal journey into the unknown. From the depths rose tiny post-larval creatures: flounders, squid, even a sea elephant, their translucent forms glowing under our lights like alien visitors in a dreamlike ballet from the abyss.

The next morning, Roe Bank welcomed us once more. It was so good, it was worth coming back! Dogtooth tuna sliced through vast shoals of fusiliers, their speed a blur against the swirling backdrop. Marble rays lay half-buried in the sand, only to lift off with a graceful flap, vanishing into the blue. We wound our way around boulders teeming with surgeonfish, while massive potato groupers watched from the shadows, still and imposing.

At Coral Bank, the excitement continued. Nurse sharks cruised alongside us, and another bull shark made a brief but thrilling appearance. Towering schools of yellow dot fusiliers and surgeonfish filled the water column, while rainbow runners shot through them like silver missiles. Below, groupers, triggerfish, and curious blennies darted among the coral rubble, each corner revealing new life.

Silvertip Bank brought our adventure to a spectacular finale. Nurse sharks patrolled in lazy circles, marble rays soared effortlessly overhead, and a majestic Napoleon wrasse glided past with quiet authority. Curtains of fusiliers shimmered like underwater rainbows, momentarily parting to reveal damselfish, groupers, and sergeant majors weaving through the colorful chaos.

We returned to Seafan Forest under crystal-clear conditions, the visibility offering a perfect window into the reef’s vibrant life. Fusiliers flowed like living rivers across the coral landscape, pursued by sleek great barracudas and darting rainbow runners. A pharaoh cuttlefish shimmered with ever-changing colors as it glided by, while a stonefish lay perfectly still, masterfully disguised among the reef. A proud tiger tail seahorse clung delicately to a sea fan, and nearby, a devil scorpionfish nestled between sponge and coral, its spiny silhouette barely detectable.

The adventure continued at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky Cave. Schools of batfish drifted gracefully overhead, five-line snappers pulsed across the reef in synchronized bursts, and twinstripe fusiliers streamed past like underwater arrows.
Chromodoris nudibranchs were abundant, their vibrant bodies accompanied by delicate, ribbon-like spirals of freshly laid eggs. Sponge snails peeked from their porous homes, while giant moray eels and fimbriated eels slinked through the crevices. A bright red frogfish, bold and still, posed patiently for photos—one nestled beneath the arch, the other tucked against the rocky wall like a secret waiting to be discovered.

We returned once more to Seafan Forest, and the magic continued. Nudibranchs spiraled their ribbon-like eggs onto the reef, stonefish vanished into their surroundings with expert camouflage, and schools of yellowback fusiliers pulsed rhythmically over coral heads like golden currents. Back at Eagle Rock and Western Rocky, we were delighted to find our familiar pair of giant frogfish—still motionless, still mesmerizing—surrounded by a kaleidoscope of reef life. Damselfish fiercely guarded their patches of eggs, while curious puffers hovered nearby, inspecting our bubbles with wide-eyed fascination.

Our final dive brought us to Dendro’s Pinnacle—and what a farewell it was. Visibility stretched endlessly as we drifted through clouds of five-line snappers and golden trevally. Yellowtail barracudas shimmered like blades in the distance.
​We were treated to the sight of not one, but two dazzling Chromodoris species--annulata and reticulata—while a graceful orange-spotted pipefish waved a quiet goodbye from the coral.

April greeted us with calm seas, radiant skies, and a boat brimming with international energy as divers from Belgium, France, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Italy stepped aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. Together, we set off on an unforgettable journey through the stunning Mergui Archipelago and the remote Burma Banks during our highly anticipated Manta Ray Expedition. Promising close encounters with ocean giants and elusive marine wonders, this trip didn’t just meet expectations—it exceeded them.

What made this expedition truly exceptional was the presence of Scarlett Taylor, a marine biologist from Canada with a Master’s degree in Biology from Dalhousie University. Scarlett brought a wealth of knowledge and infectious enthusiasm, sharing captivating insights into manta ray behavior, shark ecology, and the importance of protecting critical marine habitats. Drawing from her experience with the Manta Trust and her current work with Global Reef in Thailand, she hosted daily talks that deepened our understanding and appreciation of the incredible creatures we encountered beneath the waves.

Once we cleared immigration in Kawthoung, we set a course northwest into Burmese waters, ready to explore the untamed heart of the Andaman Sea.

Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the adventure ahead. A delicate Tiger Tail Seahorse nestled gracefully among the corals stole the show, while a curious Cowfish drifted by like a miniature UFO. We cruised alongside a shimmering school of Pickhandle Barracudas, silver scales catching the sunlight, as Giant Trevallies patrolled the reef edges with quiet authority. In the cracks and coral bommies, Butterflyfish flitted about while bold little Damselfish held their ground, helping us ease back into the rhythm of the deep.
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Next, we headed to Ba Wei, where a striking black Ribbon Eel waved like a ribbon of ink from its burrow, and a pair of elegant Jann’s Pipefish twirled delicately among soft coral tendrils. At the cleaning stations, Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasses hovered with purpose, ready for business, while vibrant Angelfish and shimmering Anthias painted the reef in brilliant hues.

We capped off the day at South Twin, where a lively current brought in the big fish. Bluefin and Giant Trevallies swept past with power, joined by the lightning-fast Rainbow Runners. Yet even amid the rush, we paused to admire the more subtle beauty—Moorish Idols and Bannerfish swaying gracefully in the swell. As night fell, we slipped beneath the surface once more for a mysterious dive in South Twin Bay. There, Parrotfish dozed inside their protective mucous cocoons, and stealthy Lionfish prowled through rocky crevices, adding a touch of nighttime drama to an already magical day.

We dedicated a full day to exploring the wonders of the Shark Cave area, diving between Shark Cave, Square Rock, and Submarine. Each site delivered in spades. A shy Bamboo Shark peeked from beneath a rocky ledge, while Tiger Tail Seahorses clung delicately to sea fans swaying in the shallows. Five Marble Rays glided past in graceful formation, skimming over coral gardens teeming with life—Tomato Clownfish darting through anemones, curious Cuttlefish drifting by, and schools of Batfish swirling like a slow-motion ballet overhead.

The macro magic was just as mesmerizing. Electric-hued Chromodoris nudibranchs lit up the reef, cryptic Decorator Crabs disguised themselves among the rubble, and alien-like Xeno Crabs gripped tightly to whip corals, looking like creatures from another planet. Meanwhile, Gold Spot Trevallies zipped through the shallows in gleaming flashes, as the reef bustled with a kaleidoscope of Wrasses, Groupers, and Triggerfish going about their vibrant, busy lives.

Black Rock never fails to impress—and today, it truly outdid itself. Across four exhilarating dives, we were treated to four manta ray sightings, including two unforgettable close encounters with majestic oceanic mantas. One glided directly overhead, lingering in the dappled sunlight as our bubbles rose to meet it—an awe-inspiring moment that left the entire group breathless with wonder.

Below and around us, schools of Big Eye Trevallies moved like rolling silver waves, creating a mesmerizing backdrop to the manta magic. In the reef’s quieter corners, diligent Harlequin Shrimps nibbled away at sea stars, their intricate patterns standing out against the rocky crevices. A ghostly White Devil Scorpionfish, nearly indistinguishable from the stone it rested on, reminded us just how much goes unnoticed until you truly look.

The entire reef pulsed with energy—Snappers darted in tight formation, Surgeonfish weaved through the chaos, and Sweetlips hovered with their signature pout. Black Rock delivered a sensory feast, once again proving why it’s one of the crown jewels of the Andaman Sea.

At North Twin Pinnacle, the blue came alive with motion and grace. Four Eagle Rays soared past like underwater kites, effortlessly gliding through the open water. All around us, Fusiliers streamed in dazzling bursts of blue and yellow, like living confetti swirling on the current. Below, the reef buzzed with life—Snappers and regal Emperor Angelfish filled the coral-scape, occasionally parting to make way for larger visitors, including a sleek Tuna cruising by in the distance during our third dive at North Twin Reef.

The Burma Banks unfolded before us like a dreamscape of the deep—vast, remote, and teeming with life. Over eight thrilling dives, we shared encounters that will be etched in memory for years to come. In the golden afternoon light, three Bull Sharks patrolled a ridge with quiet dominance, while a passing Tiger Shark sent a ripple of adrenaline through the group, hearts pounding in unison.

Beneath coral overhangs, Nurse Sharks lay in calm repose, while a juvenile Grey Reef Shark darted with youthful agility through a swirling school of Trevally. A graceful Turtle glided by, utterly unbothered by our presence, as if we were just another current in its path. Meanwhile, enormous Marble Rays stirred the sandy bottom with their powerful wings, sending Gobies and Sand perch scattering like leaves in the wind.

The Burma Banks delivered wild beauty in every direction—a raw and humbling reminder of the ocean’s power, mystery, and grace.

As we made our way back toward the Western Rocky area, Seafan Forest welcomed us with one last breathtaking surprise—a graceful Hammerhead Shark gliding past in a silent, unforgettable flyby (unfortunately not captured by any camera!).

Tucked among the swaying sea fans, another perfectly camouflaged Tigertail Seahorse revealed itself, while Stonefish lurked in plain sight, waiting to be discovered. In the shallows, Cuttlefish shimmered with vibrant color displays, their bodies flashing like living neon signs. Our macro luck held steady with one final encounter—a charming pair of Harlequin Shrimps, closing the loop on a week of small, spectacular finds.

At The Cave and Eagle Rock, the weird and wonderful made their curtain call. A hulking Giant Frogfish rested motionless in the open, its shape barely distinguishable from the coral around it. A cleverly hidden Elbow Crab and a regal Slipper Lobster reminded us once more that in the underwater world, magic hides in the details—and the surprises truly never stop.

As we sailed back toward Thailand, the sun dipped below the horizon, closing the chapter on a week filled with manta ballets, thrilling shark encounters, and kaleidoscopic coral gardens. With Scarlett’s expert insights adding depth to every dive, and a spirited crew of divers from around the world sharing the experience, this Manta Ray Expedition became more than a trip—it became a story we’ll be telling for years.

Already dreaming of the next one? So are we...

​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier, MV Smiling Seahorse embarked on an unforgettable dive safari into the stunning Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar. After clearing Thai immigration, our enthusiastic guests from France’s Galathée Group joined us as we proceeded to Kawthoung for entry formalities into Myanmar. Once completed, we set course northwest to begin our adventure in this remote and pristine marine paradise.
 
Our playground this week!
The Mergui Archipelago is a secluded paradise, boasting over 800 islands with dramatic limestone cliffs, mangroves, white sandy beaches, and vibrant coral reefs. Home to an incredible diversity of marine life, from macro critters to pelagic giants, it remains one of the last frontiers for divers seeking untouched underwater landscapes and thrilling encounters with oceanic mantas, reef sharks, and rare fish species.

​Our adventure began with a check dive at High Rock, where we were immediately welcomed by schools of yellowtail barracuda and yellowback fusiliers. Among the reef, we spotted moray eels, nudibranchs, and a beautiful thornback boxfish, also known as the cowfish. The highlight of the dive was an elusive tiger tail seahorse and a well-camouflaged stonefish lurking among the corals.

Dive 2 at Bawe (Rainbow Rock)
​A spectacular site showcasing an array of colorful soft corals in shades of yellow, blue, pink, white, and red. Marine life was abundant, with Durban dancing shrimps, a baby yellow boxfish, giant moray eels, crabs, and scorpionfish in both juvenile and adult stages. Among the highlights were chromodoris annulata, a ring angelfish, a yellow-edged moray eel, a school of circular batfish, and the fascinating blue dragon nudibranch.

Dive 3 at South Twin
This site offered a mesmerizing blend of macro life and schooling fish. Notable sightings included banded stick pipefish, chromodoris annulata, blue dragon nudibranchs, and a large school of epaulette surgeonfish. We also encountered a Maldivian sponge snail and an impressive array of reef fish, including peacock grouper, common lionfish, and twinstripe fusiliers.
Night Dive
As darkness fell, we encountered fascinating nocturnal creatures, including cleaning partner shrimps, scorpionfish, octopuses, decorated crabs, giant moray eels, blue and white flatworms, and more blue dragons.

​Black Rock delivered one of the most thrilling experiences of the trip, with at least three different oceanic manta rays gracing us with their presence. Schools of rainbow runners, yellowtail barracuda, pickhandle barracuda, and bigeye trevally swirled around us. We also spotted striped bristletooth surgeonfish, juvenile yellow band fusiliers, and several macro treasures such as red and white clown frogfish, a giant white frogfish, and an orange frogfish. A great barracuda receiving a spa treatment from cleaner wrasses was another highlight. Additional reef fish seen included bicolor cleaner wrasse, blue and gold fusiliers, and six striped soap fish.

​Square Rock
Featuring tigertail seahorses, orange-spotted pipefish, chromodoris nudibranchs, a school of yellowtail barracuda, purple flabellina, and a magnificent marble ray.
Shark Cave
This site amazed us with its massive school of juvenile blue and gold fusiliers, chromodoris annulata, a baby tiger tail seahorse, and an impressive array of reef fish, including blacktip grouper and oriental sweetlips.
Submarine
Encounters included a bamboo shark sleeping among the rocks, a stonefish, trevallies, rainbow runners, wahoo, a massive school of yellow snappers, and porcelain crabs.
Village Visit - Khun Pi Law
During snack time, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque village with a white sandy beach and a beautiful Buddha temple, offering a glimpse into the local culture before heading back for our night dive.
Night Dive at Shark Cave
Decorated crabs, white-eye moray eels, Durban dancing shrimps, baby slipper lobsters, basket star shrimps, blue and white flatworms, blue dragons, and tiny tigertail seahorses, including a very small baby one, made this dive truly magical.

​Our final dive site, Dendro’s Peak, provided a fitting end to an extraordinary journey. We encountered Jenkins rays, schools of fusiliers, bigeye trevally, rabbitfish, and an incredible variety of reef fish, including yellowfin goatfish, halfmoon grouper, and mimic sabretooth blennies.

​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier after completing Thai immigration procedures, our international group of divers from Holland, the UK, the USA, Canada, Germany, and Colombia set sail for another exhilarating expedition aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse. After formalities in Kawthung, Burma, we cruised northwest toward the remote and pristine waters of the Mergui Archipelago, anticipating days filled with thrilling dives before reaching the legendary Burma Banks.

​The Burma Banks is an isolated offshore reef system consisting of vast submerged plateaus and seamounts rising abruptly from the deep ocean floor. Unlike the nearshore reefs of the Mergui Archipelago, which are fringed with islands, the Burma Banks lie far out in the Andaman Sea, approximately 180 km west of the Burmese coast. Known for their strong currents, these deep reefs attract large pelagic species and host expansive coral gardens teeming with marine life. Our divers were in for an unforgettable adventure.

​Our check dive at High Rock set the tone for the trip, with schools of yellowtail barracuda weaving through the water, accompanied by shimmering yellowback fusiliers. Moray eels peeked out from crevices, while nudibranch enthusiasts delighted in spotting various species, including the striking thornback boxfish, also known as cowfish.

​The second dive at Dragon Island had a mild current, allowing for an exciting drift dive. Baby yellowback fusiliers and juvenile barracudas formed mesmerizing clouds around the reef, while peacock mantis shrimps scuttled along the seabed. The reef was bursting with life—longfin batfish hovered in the currents, while clown triggerfish and regal angelfish added splashes of color to the scene.

​At Bawei, also called Rainbow Rock, the vibrant coral formations were alive with activity. Our night dive here revealed a fascinating array of nocturnal creatures, including tiny pygmy squid, Glossodoris nudibranchs, and agile fibriated moray eels. A massive stonefish lay camouflaged on the reef, while a devil scorpionfish lurked nearby. A lucky few spotted both tiny and medium needle cuttlefish, along with an impressive basket star shrimp and a striking blue dragon nudibranch.

​Our first dive at Three Islets, known as Square, provided exceptional visibility, revealing tigertail seahorses clinging to sea fans and a bustling school of yellowstripe trevally. Marble rays cruised gracefully along the seabed, while orange-spotted pipefish hid among soft corals. Photographers captured exquisite close-ups of flabellina exoptata and schools of brassy and golden trevally.

​At Shark Cave, sergeant major fish were fiercely defending their eggs from opportunistic wrasses. Banded stick pipefish and vibrant nudibranchs decorated the reef, while baby blacktip fusiliers darted through the water in synchronized movements.
Submarine, our third dive site, was alive with energy. Schools of rainbow runners, blacktip fusiliers, and blue-and-gold fusiliers filled the water column. A bamboo shark rested under a rocky ledge, and a curious ornate ghost pipefish hovered nearby.
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In the late afternoon, we visited Khun Pi Law, a picturesque island with white sandy beaches and a serene Buddha temple. The night dive here did not disappoint—giant sweetlips hovered near the reef, ghost pipefish floated elegantly, and Chromodoris geminus nudibranchs illuminated the night.

​Our first two dives at North Twin Pinnacle featured schools of barracuda, yellow-lined fusiliers, and Risbecia pulchella nudibranchs. Partner shrimps hid among anemones, while giant moray eels watched divers curiously. A majestic eagle ray glided past, and Kuhl’s blue-spotted stingrays rested on sandy patches.

​At North Twin Reef, the late afternoon and sunset dives were calm but teeming with life. Large schools of yellowback and mainlined fusiliers dominated the scene, along with batfish and sweetlips near the coral bommies. Octopuses displayed their shape-shifting abilities, while giant coral tables formed a breathtaking underwater landscape.

​Our much-anticipated arrival at Burma Banks brought exciting encounters. At Row Bank, nurse sharks glided effortlessly through the currents, while a striking pair of Napoleon wrasses—male and female—patrolled the reef. Schools of silver sweetlips, black-and-white snappers, and scisortail fusiliers surrounded us. The highlight of the day? A marlin leaping at the surface near the boat!
Rainbow Bank’s third dive delivered an incredible tornado of bigeye trevally, complemented by massive marble rays and another nurse shark sighting. The sunset dive was equally thrilling, featuring honeycomb moray eels and giant sweetlips mingling with snappers.
Some divers opted for a blackwater dive instead, exploring the mysterious depths beyond the reef, discovering translucent larval fish, delicate jelly creatures, and fascinating drifters such as sea elephants, sea angels, tongue fish, isopods, and purpleback squid drifting in the open ocean."

​Franck was lucky to photograph a stunning Leopard Blenny (Exallias brevis), a photogenic yet elusive fish. With its freckled pattern and a size reaching up to 15 cm, this little beauty blends seamlessly into its surroundings, making it a challenging but rewarding subject for underwater photographers. Typically found hiding among the branches of Acropora, Pocillopora, and Porites corals, the Leopard Blenny is known for its skittish nature, darting away at the slightest disturbance. Capturing it on camera required patience, but the results were well worth the effort!"

The first two dives at Coral Bank featured an abundance of nurse sharks, a majestic mangrove whipray, and dense schools of fusiliers, surgeonfish, and potato groupers. A longnose emperor made a dramatic appearance, hunting an octopus in the sand.

​At Silvertip Bank, the highlight was a spectacular school of fusiliers swirling around the reef, alongside marble rays and a visiting Napoleon wrasse. We also encountered triggerfish, nurse sharks, damsels, and groupers hiding within coral crevices.

​Seafan Forest offered fantastic visibility, revealing swarms of baby lined fusiliers and mating Pharaoh cuttlefish. Divers were thrilled to spot stonefish and tigertail seahorses among the sea fans.
At Eagle Rock, we encountered yellowtail barracuda, a mesmerizing school of batfish, and the always-popular Pikachu nudibranch. Maldivian sponge snails dotted the reef, and fimbriated moray eels peeked from their hiding spots.
Our final dive at Western Rocky Cave introduced us to pufferfish, twinstripe fusiliers, and damsels tending to their eggs—an intimate moment of underwater life.

​Our last dive at Dendro’s Pinnacle blessed us with incredible visibility. Schools of five-line snappers, gold giant trevally, and yellowtail barracuda surrounded the site. Stonefish lurked motionless, while vibrant nudibranchs—Chromodoris annulata and Chromodoris reticulata—crawled along the reef. The finale was a tiny orange-spotted pipefish, a true delight for macro enthusiasts.

​With our tanks emptied and our hearts full, we bid farewell to the Burma Banks and the Mergui Archipelago, already dreaming of our next adventure.

​Departing from Ranong Bodin Pier, our journey to the Burma Banks began with the usual immigration formalities in Thailand before heading to Kawthung, Burma. Once the official paperwork was complete, we set course for the remote and breathtaking Mergui Archipelago and the Burma Banks. With guests from Thailand, Burma, France, Denmark, Switzerland, the USA, Italy, Panama, and Belgium, we embarked on another unforgettable adventure aboard the MV Smiling Seahorse, eager to uncover the wonders of this legendary dive destination.

The Burma Banks is an isolated offshore reef system consisting of vast submerged plateaus and seamounts that rise abruptly from the deep ocean floor. Unlike the nearshore reefs of the Mergui Archipelago, which are fringed with islands, the Burma Banks lie far out in the Andaman Sea, approximately 180 km west of the Burmese coast. The area is renowned for its thrilling drift dives, expansive sandy plateaus, and vibrant coral outcrops, making it one of the most exhilarating dive sites in the region.

During our first dive on this fantastic forest of Seafans, we discovered a massive ghost net tangled in the coral. Recognizing the threat it posed to marine life, our dedicated team of dive pros sprang into action. Over the next hour, they carefully detached the net from the reef, ensuring minimal impact on the fragile corals.

By removing this ghost net, we saved countless marine creatures from a senseless death. Ghost nets continue to trap and kill marine life—fish, crabs, morays, and even sharks—that will never be eaten or used, making them a tragic waste. Beyond their impact on marine life, discarded fishing gear is one of the largest sources of plastic pollution in our oceans and contributes to coral reef destruction. This effort was a small but important step in protecting this beautiful dive site and preserving the underwater ecosystem for future divers.

We were lucky to have onboard seven awesome friends - Julien, Camille, Sofi, Tom, Thanda, Tim and Rich - who are also skilled dive professionals, including Thanda Ko Gyi, the founder of Myanmar's first ocean conservation organization, Myanmar Ocean Project and Tim & Rich from Thai Ocean Academy. With their expertise and manpower, we were able to make a real impact, ensuring that this stunning dive site remains a haven for marine life.
A big thank you to you all!!!

As the clock ticked toward 2025, we set sail on the MV Smiling Seahorse, departing from Ranong with an international crew of divers from Australia, the USA, France, and Spain. The journey began with a unique experience—crossing the Thai-Burmese border by sea. After clearing immigration at Kawthaung, we ventured into the enchanting Mergui Archipelago to kick off our New Year’s adventure.

Our first dive at High Rock set a remarkable tone for the week ahead. The reef teemed with life, showcasing vibrant cowfish, porcupine puffers, and schools of pickhandle barracuda gliding gracefully through the crystal-clear waters. Among the nooks and crannies, we encountered white-eye moray eels, pipefish, cuttlefish, and the notoriously elusive honeycomb moray. Scorpionfish expertly camouflaged themselves against the coral backdrop, keeping us constantly alert and engaged.

Dive two took us to Shark Cave at 3 Islets, where the diversity and abundance of marine life seemed to double. A delicate tiger tail seahorse swayed gently in the current, while peacock mantis shrimp scurried energetically across the sandy bottom. Schools of fusiliers, jacks, and snappers filled the water with vibrant bursts of color, and another stunning formation of pickhandle barracuda swirled around us in a mesmerizing ballet.

For our third dive at Submarine, or Square Rock, we were treated to thrilling highlights: a school of giant trevally and golden trevally shimmering like molten gold in the deep blue background. Nudibranch enthusiasts rejoiced at the sighting of exquisite purple and orange Flabellina and orange pipefish on the reef, while the large schools of yellow fusiliers, jacks, and snappers commanded attention above our heads. We were even fortunate to witness a "barracuda tornado," a breathtaking spectacle of swirling silver and shadows.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we returned to Shark Cave for a night dive, where the nocturnal marine life came alive. Decorator crabs adorned in shades of yellow and pink roamed the seabed, and small creatures like dancing Durban shrimp and cleaning shrimp illuminated the night with their lively antics. The ethereal presence of moray eels weaving through the shadows added an intriguing touch of mystery to the dive.
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Back on board, the night turned into a festive celebration. Ringing in New Year’s Eve in the remote Mergui Archipelago was nothing short of enchanting. With no other boats in sight, we welcomed 2025 beneath a canopy of stars, toasting to exceptional visibility, thrilling dives—and the exciting prospect of more encounters with nurse sharks to come!

At North Twin Pinnacle, we began our day with two dives that can only be described as breathtaking. A shy school of jackfish momentarily graced us with their presence, while yellowtail barracuda lounged atop the boulders, watching our every move. Among the vibrant coral gardens, we encountered mesmerizing tigertail seahorses, a pair of amorous octopuses engaged in a playful courtship display, and a distinctive seal-face pufferfish. The scene was further enhanced by the vivid presence of surgeonfish, batfish, and blue-and-yellow boxfish, creating a truly enchanting tableau.
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Our third and fourth dives at North Twin Reef Pinnacle unveiled a kaleidoscope of marine life. Blue-dash, blue-and-gold, and black-tipped fusiliers darted gracefully around pink basslets and longnose hawkfish nestled among the soft coral. We were also delighted by the vibrant sweetlips, butterflyfish, and angelfish, along with the surprising appearance of four giant blue-spotted pufferfish. A dogtooth tuna glided past us, serving as a reminder of the ocean's vast and mysterious depths.

The overnight journey took us to the Burma Banks, where Row Bank awaited. At an average depth of 25 meters, we were greeted by vibrant schools of bignose unicornfish and humpback unicornfish, as well as the majestic presence of nurse sharks—both resting under the bommies and curiously swimming among us. A massive school of jacks, seemingly engaged in a mating ritual, circled in pairs of dark and light individuals. Honeycomb moray eels peeked out from their hiding spots, while chromodoris nudibranchs delighted macro enthusiasts. The excitement was further heightened by the presence of giant sweetlips, white-tip reef sharks, and titan triggerfish.

During dives three and four at Rainbow Bank, we were accompanied by dolphins along the way, setting the stage for unforgettable underwater encounters. Nurse sharks and white-tip reef sharks patrolled the area, while jacks, trevally, and rainbow runners moved in synchronized harmony. On one dive, our group was treated to a stunning sunset that revealed bearded moray eels, giant blue-spotted pufferfish, scribbled filefish, and even more nurse sharks.
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Meanwhile, other divers opted for a blackwater dive, where the crystal-clear waters and gentle currents showcased a mesmerizing array of larval critters. Tiny flounders, shrimps, mantis shrimps, crabs, moray eels, jacks, goatfish, and sea butterflies floated gracefully in the current, creating a surreal underwater spectacle.

Returning to Row Bank for our first two dives, we were once again captivated by the mesmerizing sights of nurse sharks, honeycomb moray eels, and schools of striking black-and-white snappers. Longnose emperors and five-line snappers gracefully accompanied masked porcupinefish and giant pufferfish through the vibrant underwater landscape.

​During our third dive at Rainbow Bank, we had the exhilarating opportunity to encounter yellowfin tuna, formidable great barracuda, and even a baby grey reef shark. Our final dive at Silvertip Bank provided the ultimate thrill: an adult silvertip shark glided majestically by, accompanied by marble rays and inquisitive trevally, while baby grey reef sharks curiously approached the divers on their way to the safety stop.

The final day took us back to the Mergui Archipelago, beginning with two dives at SeaFan Forest. The pharaoh cuttlefish captivated our attention as they mated and laid eggs among the crevices. Tiger-tail seahorses, stonefish, and peacock mantis shrimp shared the stage with Chromodoris annulata nudibranchs, which were laying their eggs on the vibrant giant sea fans.
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At Western Rocky Cave, we were delighted by the sight of baby Hypselodoris nudibranchs, painted lobsters, and a school of pickhandle barracuda, offering a perfect conclusion to our underwater adventures. Our final dive at Eagle’s Nest was a spectacular display of color and life, featuring schools of jacks, juvenile bicolor parrotfish, and anemone crabs bidding us farewell in a mesmerizing underwater send-off.

Our trip concluded with a dive at the Volcano, also known as Shark Lagoon. Here, we glided through a kaleidoscope of soft corals in vibrant shades of yellow, purple, and pink, while bannerfish and flabellinas gracefully danced in the currents.

Spending the first days of the new year in the remote Burma Banks was an unparalleled experience. Being the only boat in this vast expanse of ocean felt surreal, as if the underwater world had been reserved just for us. The stunning visibility in the Banks, combined with abundant marine life and the thrill of diving with nurse sharks, made it a celebration we will never forget.

​Here’s to more adventures in 2025! The whole team wishing you all, readers, an amazing year!